Books: The Diary of Samuel Pepys

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30th. Up, and put on a new summer black bombazin suit; and being
come now to an agreement with my barber to keep my perriwig in
good order at 20s. a-year, I am like to go very spruce, more than
I used to do. To the King's playhouse, and there saw
"Philaster;" [A tragedy, by Beaumont and Fletcher.] where it is
pretty to see how I could remember almost all along, ever since I
was a boy, Arethusa, the part which I was to have acted at Sir
Robert Cooke's; and it was very pleasant to me, but more to think
what a ridiculous thing it would have been for me to have acted a
beautiful woman. To Fox Hall, and there fell into the company of
Harry Killigrew, a rogue newly come out of France, but still in
disgrace at our Court, and young Newport and others, as very
rogues as any in the town, who were ready to take hold of every
woman that come by them. And so to supper in an arbour: but
Lord! their mad talk did make my heart ake. And here I first
understood by their talk the meaning of the company that lately
were called Ballers; Harris telling how it was by a meeting of
some young blades, where he was among them, and my Lady Bennet
and her ladies; and there dancing naked, and all the roguish
things in the world. But, Lord! what loose company was this
that I was in to-night, though full of wit; and worth a man's
being in for once to know the nature of it, and their manner of
talk and lives.

31st. I hear that Mrs. Davis is quite gone from the Duke of
York's house, and Gosnell comes in her room; which I am glad of.
At the play at Court the other night Mrs. Davis was there; and
when she was to come to dance her jigg, the Queene would not stay
to see it; which people do think was out of displeasure at her
being the King's mistress, that she could not bear it. My Lady
Castlemaine is, it seems, now mightily out of request, the King
coming little to her, and then she mighty melancholy and
discontented.

JUNE 1, 1668. Alone to Fox Hall, and walked and saw young
Newport and two more rogues of the town seize on two ladies, who
walked with them an hour with their masks on; (perhaps civil
ladies;) and there I left them.

3rd. To White Hall to the Council-chamber, where I did present
the Duke of York with an account of the charge of the present
fleet to his satisfaction; and this being done, did ask his leave
for my going out of town five or six days, which he did give me,
saying that my diligence in the King's business was such that I
ought not to be denied when my own business called me any
whither. To my Lord Crewe's to visit him; from whom I learn
nothing but that there hath been some controversy at the Council-
table about my Lord Sandwich's signing, where some would not have
had him, in the treaty with Portugall; but all, I think, is over
in it.

4th. Mr. Clerke the solicitor dined with me and my clerks.
After dinner I carried and set him down at; the Temple, he
observing to me how St. Sepulchre's church steeple is repaired
already a good deal, and the Fleet-bridge is contracted for by
the City to begin to be built this summer; which do please me
mightily. I to White Hall, and walked through the Park for a
little ayre; and so back to the Council-chamber to the Committee
of the Navy, about the business of fitting the present fleet
suitable to the money given; which, as the King orders it and by
what appears, will be very little, and so as I perceive the Duke
of York will have nothing to command, nor can intend to go
abroad. But it is pretty to see how careful these great men are
to do every thing so as they may answer it to the Parliament,
thinking themselves safe in nothing but where the Judges (with
whom they often advise) do say the matter is doubtful; and so
they take upon themselves then to be the chief persons to
interpret what is doubtful. Thence home, and all the evening to
set matters in order against my going to Brampton to-morrow,
being resolved upon my journey, and having the Duke of York's
leave again to-day; though I do plainly see that I can very ill
be spared now, there being much business, especially about this
which I have attended the Council about, and I the man that am
alone consulted with; and besides, my Lord Brouncker is at this
time ill, and Sir W. Pen. So things being put in order at the
office, I home to do the like there; and so to bed.

5th. [The Journal from this time to the 17th of June is
contained on five leaves, inserted in the Book and after them
follow several blank pages.] Friday. At Barnet for milk, 6d.
On the highway, to menders of the highway, 6d. Dinner at
Stevenage, 5s. 6d.

6th. Saturday. Spent at Huntingdon with Bowles and Appleyard,
and Shepley, 2s.

7th. Sunday. My father, for money lent, and horse-hire, 1l.
11s.

8th. Monday. Father's servants (father having in the garden
told me bad stories of my wife's ill words), 14s.; one that
helped at the horses, 1s.; menders of the highway, 2s. Pleasant
country to Bedford; where, while they stay, I rode through the
town; and a good country town; and there drinking, 1s. We on to
Newport; and there I and W. Hewer to the church, and there give
the boy 1s. So to Buckingham, a good old town. Here I to see
the church; which very good, and the leads, and a school in it:
did give the sexton's boy 1s. A fair bridge here, with many
arches: vexed at my people's making me lose so much time:
reckoning, 13s. 4d. Mightily pleased with the pleasure of the
ground all the day. At night to Newport Pagnell; and there a
good pleasant country-town, but few people in it. A very fair
and like a cathedral-church; and I saw the leads, and a vault
that goes far under ground: the town, and so most of this
country, well watered. Lay here well and rose next day by four
o'clock: few people in the town: and so away. Reckoning for
supper, 19s. 6d.; poor, 6d. Mischance to the coach, but no time
lost.

9th. Tuesday. We came to Oxford, a very sweet place: paid our
guide 1l. 2s. 6d.; barber, 2s. 6d.; book (Stonhenge,) 4s.; boy
that showed me the colleges before dinner, 1s. To dinner; and
then out with my wife and people, and landlord; and to him that
showed us the schools and library, 10s.; to him that showed us
All Souls' College and Chichly's picture, 5s. So to see Christ
Church with my wife, I seeing several others very fine alone
before dinner, and did give the boy that went with me, 1s.
Strawberries, 1s. 2d. Dinner and servants, 1l. 0s. 6d. After
coming home from the schools, I out with the landlord to Brazen-
nose College to the butteries, and in the cellar find the hand of
the child of Hales, long butler, 2s. [Does this mean "slipped
2s. into the child's hand?"] Thence with coach and people to
Physic-garden, 1s. So to Friar Bacon's study: I up and saw it,
and gave the man 1s.--Bottle of sack for landlord, 2s. Oxford
mighty fine place; and well seated, and cheap entertainment. At
night came to Abingdon, where had been a fair of custard; and met
many people and scholars going home; and there did get some
pretty good musick, and sang and danced till supper: 5s.

10th. Wednesday. Up, and walked to the hospitall: very large
and fine, and pictures of founders and the History of the
hospitall; and is said to be worth 700l. per annum, and that Mr.
Foly was here lately to see how their lands were settled. And
here, in old English, the story of the occasion of it, and a
rebus at the bottom. So did give the poor, which they would not
take but in their box, 2s. 8d. So to the inn, and paid the
reckoning and what not, 13s. So forth towards Hungerford. Led
this good way by our landlord, one Heart, an old but very civil
and well-spoken man, more than I ever heard, of his quality. He
gone, we forward; and I vexed at my people's not minding the way.
So come to Hungerford, where very good trouts, eels, and cray-
fish. Dinner: a mean town. At dinner there, 12s. Thence set
out with a guide, who saw us to Newmarket-heath, and then left
us, 3s. 6d. So all over the plain by the sight of the steeple
(the plain high and low) to Salisbury by night; but before I came
to the town, I saw a great fortification, and there light, and to
it and in it; and find it prodigious, so as to fright me to be in
it all alone at that time of night, it being dark. I understand
since it to be that that is called Old Sarum. Come to the George
Inne, where lay in a silk bed; and very good diet. To supper;
then to bed.

11th. Thursday. Up, and W. Hewer and I up and down the town,
and find it a very brave place. The river goes through every
street; and a most capacious market-place. The city great, I
think greater than Hereford. But the minster most admirable; as
big, I think, and handsomer than Westminster: and a most large
close about it, and horses for the officers thereof, and a fine
palace for the Bishop. So to my lodging back, and took out my
wife and people to show them the town and church; but they being
at prayers, we could not be shown the quire. A very good organ;
and I looked in and saw the Bishop, my friend Dr. Ward. Thence
to the inns; and there not being able to hire coach-horses, and
not willing to use our own, we got saddle-horses, very dear. Boy
that went to look for them 6d. So the three women behind W.
Hewer, Murford, and our guide, and I single to Stonehenge, over
the plain and some great hills, even to fright us. Come thither,
and find them as prodigious as any tales I ever heard of them,
and worth going this journey to see. God knows what their use
was: they are hard to tell, but yet may be told. Gave the
shepherd-woman, for leading our horses, 4d. So back by Wilton,
my Lord Pembroke's house, which we could not see, he being just
coming to town; but the situation I do not like, nor the house at
present much, it being in a low but rich valley. So back home;
and there being light we to the church, and there find them at
prayers again, so could not see the quire; but I sent the women
home, and I did go in and saw very many fine tombs, and among the
rest some very ancient of the Montagus. So home to dinner; and
that being done, paid the reckoning, which was so exorbitant, and
particular in rate of my horses, and 7s. 6d. for bread and beer,
that I was mad, and resolve to trouble the mistress about it, and
get something for the poor; and come away in that humour: 2l.
5s. 6d. Servants, 1s. 6d.; poor, 1s.; guide to the Stones, 2s.;
poor woman in the street, 1s.; ribbands, 9d.; wash-woman, 1s.;
sempstress for W. Hewer, 3s.; lent W. Hewer, 2s. Thence about
six o'clock, and with a guide went over the smooth plain indeed
till night; and then by a happy mistake, and that looked like an
adventure, we were carried out of our way to a town where we
would lie, since we could not go as far as we would. By and by
to bed, glad of this mistake, because it seems, had we gone on as
me pretended, we could not have passed with our coach, and must
have lain on the plain all night. This day from Salisbury I
wrote by the post my excuse for not coming home, which I hope
will do, for I am resolved to see the Bath, and, it may be,
Bristol.

12th. Friday. Up, finding our beds good, but lousy; which made
us merry. We set out, the reckoning and servants coming to 9s.
6d.; my guide thither, 2s.; coachman advanced, 10s. So rode a
very good way, led to my great content by our landlord to
Philips-Norton, with great pleasure, being now come into
Somersetshire; where my wife and Deb. mightily joyed thereat,
[They were natives of that county.] I commending the country, as
indeed it deserves. And the first town we came to was
Brekington; where we stopping for something for the horses, we
called two or three little boys to us, and pleased ourselves with
their manner of speech. At Philips-Norton I walked to the
church, and there saw a very ancient tomb of some Knight Templar,
I think; and here saw the tombstone whereon there were only two
heads cut, which the story goes, and creditably, were two
sisters, called the Fair Maids of Foscott, that had two bodies
upward and one belly, and there lie buried. Here is also a very
fine ring of six bells, and they mighty tuneable. Having dined
very well, 10s., me come before night to the Bath; where I
presently stepped out with my landlord, and saw the baths with
people in them. They are not so large as I expected, but yet
pleasant; and the town most of stone, and clean, though the
streets generally narrow. I home, and being weary, went to bed
without supper; the rest supping.

13th. Saturday. Up at four o'clock, being by appointment called
up to the Cross Bath; where we were carried after one another,
myself and wife and Betty Turner, Willet, and W. Hewer. And by
and by, though we designed to have done before company come, much
company come; very fine ladies; and the manner pretty enough,
only methinks it cannot be clean to go so many bodies together in
the same water. Good conversation among them that are acquainted
here, and stay together. Strange to see how hot the water is;
and in some places though this is the most temperate bath, the
springs so hot as the feet not able to endure. But strange to
see, when women and men here, that live all the season in these
waters, cannot but be parboiled and look like the creatures of
the bath! Carried away wrapped in a sheet, and in a chair home;
and there one after another thus carried (I staying above two
hours in the water) home to bed, sweating for an hour. And by
and by comes musick to play to me, extraordinary good as ever I
heard at London almost any where: 5s. Up to go to Bristoll
about eleven o'clock, and paying my landlord that was our guide
from Chiltren 10s., and the serjeant of the bath 10s., and the
man that carried us in chairs 3s. 6d., set out toward Bristoll,
and come thither, the way bad, (in coach hired to spare our own
horses,) but country good, about two o'clock; where set down at
the Horse-shoe, and there being trimmed by a very handsome
fellow, 2s., walked with my wife and people through the city,
which is in every respect another London, that one can hardly
know it to stand in the country no more than that. No carts, it
standing generally on vaults, only dog-carts. So to the Three
Crowns Tavern I was directed; but when I came in, the master told
me that he had newly given over the selling of wine; it seems
grown rich: and so went to the Sun; and there Deb. going with W.
Hewer and Betty Turner to see her uncle, and leaving my wife with
the mistress of the house, I to see the quay, which is a most
large and noble place; and to see the new ship building by Bally,
neither he nor Furzer [Daniel Furzer, Surveyor to the Navy.]
being in town. It will be a fine ship. Spoke with the foreman,
and did give the boys that kept the cabin 2s. Walked back to the
Sun, where I find Deb. come back, and with her, her uncle, a
sober merchant, very good company, and so like one of our sober
wealthy London merchants as pleased me mightily. Here we dined,
and much good talk with him, 7s. 6d.; a messenger to Sir John
Knight, [Mayor of Bristol 1663, and M.P. for that city.] who was
not at home, 6d. Then walked with him and my wife and company
round the quay, and to the ship; and he showed me the Custom-
house, and made me understand many things of the place, and led
us through Marsh-street, where our girl was born. But, Lord!
the joy that was among the old poor people of the place, to see
Mrs. Willet's daughter, it seems her mother being a brave woman
and mightily beloved! And so brought us a back way by surprize
to his house; where a substantial good house, and well furnished;
and did give us good entertainment of strawberries, a whole
venison-pasty cold, and plenty of brave wine, and above all
Bristol milk: where comes in another poor woman, who hearing
that Deb. was here did come running hither, and with her eyes so
full of tears and heart so full of joy that she could not speak
when she come in, that it made me weep too: I protest that I was
not able to speak to her, which I would have done, to have
diverted her tears. His wife a good woman, and so sober and
substantiall as I was never more pleased any where, Servant-maid,
2s. So thence took leave and he with us through the city; where
in walking I find the city pay him great respect, and he the like
to the meanest, which pleased me mightily. He showed us the
place where the merchants meet here, and a fine cross yet
standing, like Cheapside. And so to the Horse-shoe, where paid
the reckoning, 2s. 6d. We back, and by moonshine to the Bath
again about ten o'clock: bad way; and giving the coachman 1s.
went all of us to bed.

14th. (Sunday). Up, and walked up and down the town, and saw a
pretty good market-place, and many good streets, and very fair
stone-houses. And so to the great church, and there saw Bishop
Montagu's tomb; and, when placed, did there see many brave people
come, and among others two men brought in litters, and set down
in the chancel to hear: but I did not know one face. Here a
good organ; but a vain pragmatical fellow preached a ridiculous,
affected sermon, that made me angry, and some gentlemen that sat
next me, and sang well. So home, walking round the walls of the
City, which are good, and the battlements all whole. To this
church again, to see it and look over the monuments; where, among
others, Dr. Venner and Pelling, and a lady of Sir W. Waller's;
[Jane, sole daughter of Sir Richard Reynell.] he lying with his
face broken. My landlord did give me a good account of the
antiquity of this town and Wells; and of two heads, on two
pillars, in Wells church.

15th. Monday. looked into the baths, and find the King and
Queene's full of a mixed sort of good and bad, and the Cross only
almost for the gentry. So home with my wife, and did pay my
guides, two women, 5s.; one man, 2s. 6d.; poor, 6d.; woman to lay
my foot-cloth, 1s. So to our inne, and there eat and paid
reckoning, 1l. 8s. 6d.; servants, 3s.; poor, 1s.; lent the
coachman, 10s. Before I took coach, I went to make a boy dive in
the King's bath, 1s. I paid also for my coach and a horse to
Bristoll, 1l. 1s. 6d. Took coach, and away without any of the
company of the other stage-coaches that go out of this town to-
day; and rode all day with some trouble, for fear of our being
out of our way, over the Downes, (where the life of the shepherds
is, in fair weather only, pretty). In the afternoon come to
Abury; where seeing great stones like those of Stonehenge
standing up, I stopped and took a countryman of that town, and he
carried me and showed me a place trenched in, like Old Sarum
almost, with great stones pitched in it some bigger than those at
Stonehenge in figure, to my great admiration: and he told me
that most people of learning coming by do come and view them, and
that the King did so; and the mount cast hard by is called
Selbury, from one King Seall buried there, as tradition says. I
did give this man 1s. So took coach again, seeing one place with
great high stones pitched round, which I believe was once some
particular building, in some measure like that of Stonehenge.
But, about a mile off, it was prodigious to see how full the
Downes are of great stones; and all along the vallies stones of
considerable bigness, most of them growing certainly out of the
ground, so thick as to cover the ground; which makes me think the
less of the wonder of Stonehenge, for hence they might
undoubtedly supply themselves with stones, as well as those at
Abury. In my way did give to the poor and menders of the highway
3s. Before night come to Marlborough, and lay at the Hart; a
good house, and a pretty fair town for a street or two; and what
is most singular is, their houses on one side having their pent-
houses supported with pillars, which makes it a good walk. All
the five coaches that come this day from Bath, as well as we,
were gone out of the town before six.

16th. Tuesday. After paying the reckoning, 14s. 4d. and
servants 2s., poor 1s., set out; and passing through a good part
of this country of Wiltshire, saw a good house [Littlecote.] of
Alexander Popham's, [M.P. for Bath.] and another of my Lord
Craven's, [Hampstead Marshal, since destroyed by fire.] I think,
in Barkeshire. Come to Newbery, and there dined; and musick: a
song of the old courtier of Queene Elizabeth's, and how he was
changed upon the coming in of the King, did please me mightily,
and I did cause W. Hewer to write it out. Then comes the
reckoning, (forced to change gold,) 8s. 7d.; servants and poor,
1s. 6d. So out, and lost our way, but come into it again; and in
the evening betimes come to Reding; and I to walk about the town,
which is a very great one; I think bigger than Salisbury: a
river runs through it in seven branches, (which unite in one, in
one part of the town,) and runs into the Thames half-a-mile off:
one odd sign of the Broad Face. Then to my inn, and so to bed.

17th (Wednesday). Rose, and paying the reckoning, 12s. 8d.;
servants and poor, 2s. 6d.; musick, the worst we have had, coming
to our chamber-door, but calling us by wrong names; so set out
with one coach in company, and through Maydenhead, which I never
saw before, to Colebrooke by noon; the way mighty good; and there
dined, and fitted ourselves a little to go through London anon.
Thence pleasant way to London before night, and and all very well
to great content; and saw Sir W. Pen, who is well again. I hear
of the ill news by the great fire at Barbadoes.

18th. I did receive a hint or two from my Lord Anglesy, as if he
thought much of my taking the ayre as I have done; but I care
not: but whatever the matter is, I think he hath some ill-will
to me, or at least an opinion that I am more the servant of the
Board than I am. To my Lady Peterborough's; who tells me, among
other things, her Lord's good words to the Duke of York lately
about my Lord Sandwich, and that the Duke of York is kind to my
Lord Sandwich; which I am glad to hear.

19th. Between two and three in the morning we were waked with
the maids crying out, "Fire, fire, in Marke-lane!" So I rose and
looked out, and it was dreadful; and strange apprehensions in me
and us all of being presently burnt. So we all rose; and my care
presently was to secure my gold and plate and papers, and could
quickly have done it, but I went forth to see where it was; and
the whole town was presently in the streets; and I found it in a
new-built house that stood alone in Minchin-lane, over against
the Cloth-workers'-hall, which burned furiously: the house not
yet quite finished; and the benefit of brick was well seen, for
it burnt all inward and fell down within itself; so no fear of
doing more hurt. Yesterday I heard how my Lord Ashly is like to
die, having some imposthume in his breast, that he hath been fain
to be cut into the body. To White Hall, were we attended the
Duke of York in his closet upon our usual business. And thence
out, and did see many of the Knights of the Garter with the King
and Duke of York going into the Privy-chamber to elect the
Elector of Saxony in that Order; who, I did hear the Duke of York
say, was a good drinker: I know not upon what score this
compliment is done him.

22nd. With Balty to St. James's, and there presented him to Mr.
Wren about his being Muster-master this year; which will be done.
So up to wait on the Duke of York, and thence with Sir W.
Coventry walked to White Hall: good discourse about the Navy,
where want of money undoes us. Thence to the Coffee-house in
Covent-garden; but met with nobody but Sir Philip Howard, who
shamed me before the whole house there in commendation of my
speech in Parliament. To the King's playhouse, and saw an act or
two of the new play, "Evening Love," ["An Evening's Love, or The
Mock Astrologer," a comedy by Dryden.] again, but like it not.
Calling this day at Herringman's, [H. Herringman, a printer and
publisher in the New Exchange.] he tells me Dryden do himself
call it but a fifth-rate play. From thence to my Lord
Brouncker's, where a Council of the Royall Society; and there
heard Mr. Harry Howard's noble offers about ground for our
college, and his intentions of building his own house there, most
nobly. My business was to meet Mr. Boyle; which I did, and
discoursed about my eyes; and he did give me the best advice he
could, but refers me to one Turberville [Daubigney Turberville,
of Oriel College; created M.D. at Oxford 1660.] of Salisbury
lately come to town, who I will go to. Thence home; where the
streets full at our end of the town, removing their wine against
the Act begins, which will be two days hence, to raise the price.

23rd. To Dr. Turberville about my eyes; whom I met with: and he
did discourse, I thought, learnedly about them; and takes time,
before he did prescribe me any thing, to think of it.

24th. Creed and Colonel Atkins come to me about sending coals to
Tangier; and upon that most of the morning.