Books: Records of a Family of Engineers
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Robert Louis Stevenson >> Records of a Family of Engineers
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It was a general remark at the Bell Rock, as before noticed, that
fish were never plenty in its neighbourhood excepting in good
weather. Indeed, the seamen used to speculate about the state of
the weather from their success in fishing. When the fish
disappeared at the rock, it was considered a sure indication that a
gale was not far off, as the fish seemed to seek shelter in deeper
water from the roughness of the sea during these changes in the
weather. At this time the rock, at high-water, was completely
covered with podlies, or the fry of the coal-fish, about six or
eight inches in length. The artificers sometimes occupied half an
hour after breakfast and dinner in catching these little fishes,
but were more frequently supplied from the boats of the tender.
[Saturday, 16th June]
The landing-master having this day discharged the Smeaton and
loaded the Hedderwick and Dickie praam-boats with nineteen stones,
they were towed to their respective moorings, when Captain Wilson,
in consequence of the heavy swell of sea, came in his boat to the
beacon-house to consult with the writer as to the propriety of
venturing the loaded praam-boats with their cargoes to the rock
while so much sea was running. After some dubiety expressed on the
subject, in which the ardent mind of the landing-master suggested
many arguments in favour of his being able to convey the praams in
perfect safety, it was acceded to. In bad weather, and especially
on occasions of difficulty like the present, Mr. Wilson, who was an
extremely active seaman, measuring about five feet three inches in
height, of a robust habit, generally dressed himself in what he
called a MONKEY JACKET, made of thick duffle cloth, with a pair of
Dutchman's petticoat trousers, reaching only to his knees, where
they were met with a pair of long water-tight boots; with this
dress, his glazed hat, and his small brass speaking trumpet in his
hand, he bade defiance to the weather. When he made his appearance
in this most suitable attire for the service his crew seemed to
possess additional life, never failing to use their utmost
exertions when the captain put on his STORM RIGGING. They had this
morning commenced loading the praam-boats at four o'clock, and
proceeded to tow them into the eastern landing-place, which was
accomplished with much dexterity, though not without the risk of
being thrown, by the force of the sea, on certain projecting ledges
of the rock. In such a case the loss even of a single stone would
have greatly retarded the work. For the greater safety in entering
the creek it was necessary to put out several warps and guy-ropes
to guide the boats into its narrow and intricate entrance; and it
frequently happened that the sea made a clean breach over the
praams, which not only washed their decks, but completely drenched
the crew in water.
[Sunday, 17th June]
It was fortunate, in the present state of the weather, that the
fiftieth course was in a sheltered spot, within the reach of the
tackle of the winch-machine upon the bridge; a few stones were
stowed upon the bridge itself, and the remainder upon the building,
which kept the artificers at work. The stowing of the materials
upon the rock was the department of Alexander Brebner, mason, who
spared no pains in attending to the safety of the stones, and who,
in the present state of the work, when the stones were landed
faster than could be built, generally worked till the water rose to
his middle. At one o'clock to-day the bell rung for prayers, and
all hands were collected into the upper barrack-room of the beacon-
house, when the usual service was performed.
The wind blew very hard in the course of last night from N.E., and
to-day the sea ran so high that no boat could approach the rock.
During the dinner-hour, when the writer was going to the top of the
building as usual, but just as he had entered the door and was
about to ascend the ladder, a great noise was heard overhead, and
in an instant he was soused in water from a sea which had most
unexpectedly come over the walls, though now about fifty-eight feet
in height. On making his retreat he found himself completely
whitened by the lime, which had mixed with the water while dashing
down through the different floors; and, as nearly as he could
guess, a quantity equal to about a hogshead had come over the
walls, and now streamed out at the door. After having shifted
himself, he again sat down in his cabin, the sea continuing to run
so high that the builders did not resume their operations on the
walls this afternoon. The incident just noticed did not create
more surprise in the mind of the writer than the sublime appearance
of the waves as they rolled majestically over the rock. This scene
he greatly enjoyed while sitting at his cabin window; each wave
approached the beacon like a vast scroll unfolding; and in passing
discharged a quantity of air, which he not only distinctly felt,
but was even sufficient to lift the leaves of a book which lay
before him. These waves might be ten or twelve feet in height, and
about 250 feet in length, their smaller end being towards the
north, where the water was deep, and they were opened or cut
through by the interposition of the building and beacon. The
gradual manner in which the sea, upon these occasions, is observed
to become calm or to subside, is a very remarkable feature of this
phenomenon. For example, when a gale is succeeded by a calm, every
third or fourth wave forms one of these great seas, which occur in
spaces of from three to five minutes, as noted by the writer's
watch; but in the course of the next tide they become less
frequent, and take off so as to occur only in ten or fifteen
minutes; and, singular enough, at the third tide after such gales,
the writer has remarked that only one or two of these great waves
appear in the course of the whole tide.
[Tuesday, 19th June]
The 19th was a very unpleasant and disagreeable day, both for the
seamen and artificers, as it rained throughout with little
intermission from four a.m. till eleven p.m., accompanied with
thunder and lightning, during which period the work nevertheless
continued unremittingly, and the builders laid the fifty-first and
fifty-second courses. This state of weather was no less severe
upon the mortar-makers, who required to temper or prepare the
mortar of a thicker or thinner consistency, in some measure,
according to the state of the weather. From the elevated position
of the building, the mortar gallery on the beacon was now much
lower, and the lime-buckets were made to traverse upon a rope
distended between it and the building. On occasions like the
present, however, there was often a difference of opinion between
the builders and the mortar-makers. John Watt, who had the
principal charge of the mortar, was a most active worker, but,
being somewhat of an irascible temper, the builders occasionally
amused themselves at his expense; for while he was eagerly at work
with his large iron-shod pestle in the mortar-tub, they often sent
down contradictory orders, some crying, 'Make it a little stiffer,
or thicker, John,' while others called out to make it 'thinner,' to
which he generally returned very speedy and sharp replies, so that
these conversations at times were rather amusing.
During wet weather the situation of the artificers on the top of
the building was extremely disagreeable; for although their work
did not require great exertion, yet, as each man had his particular
part to perform, either in working the crane or in laying the
stones, it required the closest application and attention, not only
on the part of Mr. Peter Logan, the foreman, who was constantly on
the walls, but also of the chief workmen. Robert Selkirk, the
principal builder, for example, had every stone to lay in its
place. David Cumming, a mason, had the charge of working the
tackle of the balance-weight, and James Scott, also a mason, took
charge of the purchase with which the stones were laid; while the
pointing the joints of the walls with cement was intrusted to
William Reid and William Kennedy, who stood upon a scaffold
suspended over the walls in rather a frightful manner. The least
act of carelessness or inattention on the part of any of these men
might have been fatal, not only to themselves, but also to the
surrounding workmen, especially if any accident had happened to the
crane itself, while the material damage or loss of a single stone
would have put an entire stop to the operations until another could
have been brought from Arbroath. The artificers, having wrought
seven and a half hours of extra time to-day, had 3s. 9d. of extra
pay, while the foremen had 7s. 6d. over and above their stated pay
and board. Although, therefore, the work was both hazardous and
fatiguing, yet, the encouragement being considerable, they were
always very cheerful, and perfectly reconciled to the confinement
and other disadvantages of the place.
During fine weather, and while the nights were short, the duty on
board of the floating light was literally nothing but a waiting on,
and therefore one of her boats, with a crew of five men, daily
attended the rock, but always returned to the vessel at night. The
carpenter, however, was one of those who was left on board of the
ship, as he also acted in the capacity of assistant lightkeeper,
being, besides, a person who was apt to feel discontent and to be
averse to changing his quarters, especially to work with the
millwrights and joiners at the rock, who often, for hours together,
wrought knee-deep, and not unfrequently up to the middle, in water.
Mr. Watt having about this time made a requisition for another
hand, the carpenter was ordered to attend the rock in the floating
light's boat. This he did with great reluctance, and found so much
fault that he soon got into discredit with his messmates. On this
occasion he left the Lighthouse service, and went as a sailor in a
vessel bound for America--a step which, it is believed, he soon
regretted, as, in the course of things, he would, in all
probability, have accompanied Mr. John Reid, the principal
lightkeeper of the floating light, to the Bell Rock Lighthouse as
his principal assistant. The writer had a wish to be of service to
this man, as he was one of those who came off to the floating light
in the month of September 1807, while she was riding at single
anchor after the severe gale of the 7th, at a time when it was
hardly possible to make up this vessel's crew; but the crossness of
his manner prevented his reaping the benefit of such intentions.
[Friday, 22nd June]
The building operations had for some time proceeded more slowly,
from the higher parts of the lighthouse requiring much longer time
than an equal tonnage of the lower courses. The duty of the
landing-master's crew had, upon the whole, been easy of late; for
though the work was occasionally irregular, yet the stones being
lighter, they were more speedily lifted from the hold of the stone
vessel to the deck of the praam-boat, and again to the waggons on
the railway, after which they came properly under the charge of the
foreman builder. It is, however, a strange, though not an
uncommon, feature in the human character, that, when people have
least to complain of, they are most apt to become dissatisfied, as
was now the case with the seamen employed in the Bell Rock service
about their rations of beer. Indeed, ever since the carpenter of
the floating light, formerly noticed, had been brought to the rock,
expressions of discontent had been manifested upon various
occasions. This being represented to the writer, he sent for
Captain Wilson, the landing-master, and Mr. Taylor, commander of
the tender, with whom he talked over the subject. They stated that
they considered the daily allowance of the seamen in every respect
ample, and that, the work being now much lighter than formerly,
they had no just ground for complaint; Mr. Taylor adding that, if
those who now complained 'were even to be fed upon soft bread and
turkeys, they would not think themselves right.' At twelve noon
the work of the landing-master's crew was completed for the day;
but at four o'clock, while the rock was under water, those on the
beacon were surprised by the arrival of a boat from the tender
without any signal having been made from the beacon. It brought
the following note to the writer from the landing-master's crew:-
'Sir Joseph Banks Tender.
'SIR,--We are informed by our masters that our allowance is to be
as before, and it is not sufficient to serve us, for we have been
at work since four o'clock this morning, and we have come on board
to dinner, and there is no beer for us before to-morrow morning, to
which a sufficient answer is required before we go from the beacon;
and we are, Sir, your most obedient servants.'
On reading this, the writer returned a verbal message, intimating
that an answer would be sent on board of the tender, at the same
time ordering the boat instantly to quit the beacon. He then
addressed the following note to the landing-master:-
'Beacon-house, 22nd June 1810,
Five o'clock p.m.
'SIR,--I have just now received a letter purporting to be from the
landing-master's crew and seamen on board of the Sir Joseph Banks,
though without either date or signature; in answer to which I
enclose a statement of the daily allowance of provisions for the
seamen in this service, which you will post up in the ship's
galley, and at seven o'clock this evening I will come on board to
inquire into this unexpected and most unnecessary demand for an
additional allowance of beer. In the enclosed you will not find
any alteration from the original statement, fixed in the galley at
the beginning of the season. I have, however, judged this mode of
giving your people an answer preferable to that of conversing with
them on the beacon. --I am, Sir, your most obedient servant, ROBERT
STEVENSON.
'To CAPTAIN WILSON.'
'Beacon House, 22nd June 1810.--Schedule of the daily allowance of
provisions to be served out on board of the Sir Joseph Banks
tender: "1.5 lb. beef; 1 lb. bread; 8 oz. oatmeal; 2 oz. barley; 2
oz. butter; 3 quarts beer; vegetables and salt no stated allowance.
When the seamen are employed in unloading the Smeaton and Patriot,
a draught of beer is, as formerly, to be allowed from the stock of
these vessels. Further, in wet and stormy weather, or when the
work commences very early in the morning, or continues till a late
hour at night, a glass of spirits will also be served out to the
crew as heretofore, on the requisition of the landing-master."
ROBERT STEVENSON.'
On writing this letter and schedule, a signal was made on the
beacon for the landing-master's boat, which immediately came to the
rock, and the schedule was afterwards stuck up in the tender's
galley. When sufficient time had been allowed to the crew to
consider of their conduct, a second signal was made for a boat, and
at seven o'clock the writer left the Bell Rock, after a residence
of four successive weeks in the beacon-house. The first thing
which occupied his attention on board of the tender was to look
round upon the lighthouse, which he saw, with some degree of
emotion and surprise, now vying in height with the beacon-house;
for although he had often viewed it from the extremity of the
western railway on the rock, yet the scene, upon the whole, seemed
far more interesting from the tender's moorings at the distance of
about half a mile.
The Smeaton having just arrived at her moorings with a cargo, a
signal was made for Captain Pool to come on board of the tender,
that he might be at hand to remove from the service any of those
who might persist in their discontented conduct. One of the two
principal leaders in this affair, the master of one of the praam-
boats, who had also steered the boat which brought the letter to
the beacon, was first called upon deck, and asked if he had read
the statement fixed up in the galley this afternoon, and whether he
was satisfied with it. He replied that he had read the paper, but
was not satisfied, as it held out no alteration in the allowance,
on which he was immediately ordered into the Smeaton's boat. The
next man called had but lately entered the service, and, being also
interrogated as to his resolution, he declared himself to be of the
same mind with the praam-master, and was also forthwith ordered
into the boat. The writer, without calling any more of the seamen,
went forward to the gangway, where they were collected and
listening to what was passing upon deck. He addressed them at the
hatchway, and stated that two of their companions had just been
dismissed the service and sent on board of the Smeaton to be
conveyed to Arbroath. He therefore wished each man to consider for
himself how far it would be proper, by any unreasonableness of
conduct, to place themselves in a similar situation, especially as
they were aware that it was optional in him either to dismiss them
or send them on board a man-of-war. It might appear that much
inconveniency would be felt at the rock by a change of hands at
this critical period, by checking for a time the progress of a
building so intimately connected with the best interests of
navigation; yet this would be but of a temporary nature, while the
injury to themselves might be irreparable. It was now therefore,
required of any man who, in this disgraceful manner, chose to leave
the service, that he should instantly make his appearance on deck
while the Smeaton's boat was alongside. But those below having
expressed themselves satisfied with their situation-viz., William
Brown, George Gibb, Alexander Scott, John Dick, Robert Couper,
Alexander Shephard, James Grieve, David Carey, William Pearson,
Stuart Eaton, Alexander Lawrence, and John Spink--were accordingly
considered as having returned to their duty. This disposition to
mutiny, which had so strongly manifested itself, being now happily
suppressed, Captain Pool got orders to proceed for Arbroath Bay,
and land the two men he had on board, and to deliver the following
letter at the office of the workyard:-
'On board of the Tender off the Bell Rock,
22nd June 1810, eight o'clock p.m.
'DEAR SIR,--A discontented and mutinous spirit having manifested
itself of late among the landing-master's crew, they struck work
to-day and demanded an additional allowance of beer, and I have
found it necessary to dismiss D-d and M-e, who are now sent on
shore with the Smeaton. You will therefore be so good as to pay
them their wages, including this day only. Nothing can be more
unreasonable than the conduct of the seamen on this occasion, as
the landing-master's crew not only had their allowance on board of
the tender, but, in the course of this day, they had drawn no fewer
than twenty-four quart pots of beer from the stock of the Patriot
while unloading her. --I remain, yours truly, ROBERT STEVENSON.
'To Mr. LACHLAN KENNEDY,
Bell Rock Office, Arbroath.'
On despatching this letter to Mr. Kennedy, the writer returned to
the beacon about nine o'clock, where this afternoon's business had
produced many conjectures, especially when the Smeaton got under
weigh, instead of proceeding to land her cargo. The bell on the
beacon being rung, the artificers were assembled on the bridge,
when the affair was explained to them. He, at the same time,
congratulated them upon the first appearance of mutiny being
happily set at rest by the dismissal of its two principal abettors.
[Sunday, 24th June]
At the rock the landing of the materials and the building
operations of the light-room store went on successfully, and in a
way similar to those of the provision store. To-day it blew fresh
breezes; but the seamen nevertheless landed twenty-eight stones,
and the artificers built the fifty-eighth and fifty-ninth courses.
The works were visited by Mr. Murdoch, junior, from Messrs. Boulton
and Watt's works of Soho. He landed just as the bell rung for
prayers, after which the writer enjoyed much pleasure from his very
intelligent conversation; and, having been almost the only stranger
he had seen for some weeks, he parted with him, after a short
interview, with much regret.
[Thursday, 28th June]
Last night the wind had shifted to north-east, and, blowing fresh,
was accompanied with a heavy surf upon the rock. Towards high-
water it had a very grand and wonderful appearance. Waves of
considerable magnitude rose as high as the solid or level of the
entrance-door, which, being open to the south-west, was fortunately
to the leeward; but on the windward side the sprays flew like
lightning up the sloping sides of the building; and although the
walls were now elevated sixty-four feet above the rock, and about
fifty-two feet from high-water mark, yet the artificers were
nevertheless wetted, and occasionally interrupted, in their
operations on the top of the walls. These appearances were, in a
great measure, new at the Bell Rock, there having till of late been
no building to conduct the seas, or object to compare with them.
Although, from the description of the Eddystone Lighthouse, the
mind was prepared for such effects, yet they were not expected to
the present extent in the summer season; the sea being most awful
to-day, whether observed from the beacon or the building. To
windward, the sprays fell from the height above noticed in the most
wonderful cascades, and streamed down the walls of the building in
froth as white as snow. To leeward of the lighthouse the collision
or meeting of the waves produced a pure white kind of DRIFT; it
rose about thirty feet in height, like a fine downy mist, which, in
its fall, fell upon the face and hands more like a dry powder than
a liquid substance. The effect of these seas, as they raged among
the beams and dashed upon the higher parts of the beacon, produced
a temporary tremulous motion throughout the whole fabric, which to
a stranger must have been frightful.
[Sunday, 1st July]
The writer had now been at the Bell Rock since the latter end of
May, or about six weeks, during four of which he had been a
constant inhabitant of the beacon without having been once off the
rock. After witnessing the laying of the sixty-seventh or second
course of the bedroom apartment, he left the rock with the tender
and went ashore, as some arrangements were to be made for the
future conduct of the works at Arbroath, which were soon to be
brought to a close; the landing-master's crew having, in the
meantime, shifted on board of the Patriot. In leaving the rock,
the writer kept his eyes fixed upon the lighthouse, which had
recently got into the form of a house, having several tiers or
stories of windows. Nor was he unmindful of his habitation in the
beacon--now far overtopped by the masonry,--where he had spent
several weeks in a kind of active retirement, making practical
experiment of the fewness of the positive wants of man. His cabin
measured not more than four feet three inches in breadth on the
floor; and though, from the oblique direction of the beams of the
beacon, it widened towards the top, yet it did not admit of the
full extension of his arms when he stood on the floor; while its
length was little more than sufficient for suspending a cot-bed
during the night, calculated for being triced up to the roof
through the day, which left free room for the admission of
occasional visitants. His folding table was attached with hinges,
immediately under the small window of the apartment, and his books,
barometer, thermometer, portmanteau, and two or three camp-stools,
formed the bulk of his movables. His diet being plain, the
paraphernalia of the table were proportionally simple; though
everything had the appearance of comfort, and even of neatness, the
walls being covered with green cloth formed into panels with red
tape, and his bed festooned with curtains of yellow cotton-stuff.
If, in speculating upon the abstract wants of man in such a state
of exclusion, one were reduced to a single book, the Sacred Volume-
-whether considered for the striking diversity of its story, the
morality of its doctrine, or the important truths of its gospel--
would have proved by far the greatest treasure.
[Monday, 2nd July]
In walking over the workyard at Arbroath this morning, the writer
found that the stones of the course immediately under the cornice
were all in hand, and that a week's work would now finish the
whole, while the intermediate courses lay ready numbered and marked
for shipping to the rock. Among other subjects which had occupied
his attention to-day was a visit from some of the relations of
George Dall, a young man who had been impressed near Dundee in the
month of February last; a dispute had arisen between the
magistrates of that burgh and the Regulating Officer as to his
right of impressing Dall, who was bona fide one of the protected
seamen in the Bell Rock service. In the meantime, the poor lad was
detained, and ultimately committed to the prison of Dundee, to
remain until the question should be tried before the Court of
Session. His friends were naturally very desirous to have him
relieved upon bail. But, as this was only to be done by the
judgment of the Court, all that could be said was that his pay and
allowances should be continued in the same manner as if he had been
upon the sick-list. The circumstances of Dall's case were briefly
these:- He had gone to see some of his friends in the neighbourhood
of Dundee, in winter, while the works were suspended, having got
leave of absence from Mr. Taylor, who commanded the Bell Rock
tender, and had in his possession one of the Protection Medals.
Unfortunately, however, for Dall, the Regulating Officer thought
proper to disregard these documents, as, according to the strict
and literal interpretation of the Admiralty regulations, a seaman
does not stand protected unless he is actually on board of his
ship, or in a boat belonging to her, or has the Admiralty
protection in his possession. This order of the Board, however,
cannot be rigidly followed in practice; and therefore, when the
matter is satisfactorily stated to the Regulating Officer, the
impressed man is generally liberated. But in Dall's case this was
peremptorily refused, and he was retained at the instance of the
magistrates. The writer having brought the matter under the
consideration of the Commissioners of the Northern Lighthouses,
they authorised it to be tried on the part of the Lighthouse Board,
as one of extreme hardship. The Court, upon the first hearing,
ordered Dall to be liberated from prison; and the proceedings never
went further.
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