Books: The Country Housewife and Lady\'s Director
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Richard Bradley >> The Country Housewife and Lady\'s Director
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20 Transcribed by David Starner, Kevin Handy,
and the Online Distributed Proofreader Team
THE
Country Housewife
AND
LADY'S DIRECTOR
IN THE
Management of a House, and the
Delights and Profits of a Farm.
CONTAINING
_Instructions for managing the Brew-House, and Malt-Liquors in the Cellar;
the making of Wines of all sorts_
_Directions for the Dairy, in the Improvement of Butter and Cheese upon the
worst of Soils; the feeding and making of Brawn; the ordering of Fish,
Fowl, Herbs, Roots, and all other useful Branches belonging to a Country
Seat, in the most elegant manner for the Table._
_Practical Observations concerning Distilling; with the best Method of
making Ketchup, and many other curious and durable Sauces._
_The whole distributed in their proper Months, from the Beginning to the
End of the Year._
_With particular Remarks relating to the Drying or Kilning of Saffron._
By R. BRADLEY,
Professor of Botany in the University of _Cambridge;_ and F.R.S.
_The Sixth Edition_
_With Additions._
* * * * *
To The
LADY _WAGER_,
Consort to the Right Honourable
Sir _CHARLES WAGER_,
One of the Lords Commissioners
of the Admiralty,
AND
One of His Majesty's Most Honourable
PRIVY-COUNCIL;
_This Book is most humbly Dedicated, by_
_Her Ladyship's most Obedient,_
_and most Humble Servant,_
R. BRADLEY.
* * * * *
AN INDEX TO THE FIRST PART.
A.
Asparagus, preserv'd.
Ditto Drest the _Dutch_ way.
Ditto with Cream.
Artichoakes, to dry.
Ditto preserv'd.
Ditto pickled.
Ditto fryed.
Ditto in Suckers, to eat raw.
Apricot Wine.
Alamode Beef.
B.
Brandy, Laurel.
Birch-Wine.
Brewing.
Beef Cake-Soup.
Ditto to Pot like Venison.
Beef, to Collar.
Brocoli, to boil.
Butter, good in _Suffolk._
_Buckingham_-Cheese, to make.
Butter, why good or bad.
Ditto in general.
Butter, what Milk is good.
Ditto made over the Fire.
Ditto wash'd.
Ditto churn'd in Summer.
Ditto churn'd in Winter.
Beans, preserv'd, the Winter.
Berberries, to pickle.
Beet-Roots, red, to pickle.
Ditto fryed.
Boar's-Head imitated.
Brawn, to Collar.
Boar, when to be put up for Brawn.
C.
Capon, to dress.
Carps, to stew.
Cellars, which are best.
Cowslip-Wine.
Cheese, spoiled.
Ditto what concerns its Goodness.
Ditto why bad in _Suffolk._
Ditto Good from one sort of Cattle.
Ditto preserv'd in Oil.
Ditto Marygold.
Ditto Sage.
Ditto Sage in figures.
Ditto _Cheshire._
Ditto _Cheshire_ with Sack.
Ditto _Gloucestershire._
Cheese, Cream.
Ditto Why the Aversion to it.
Churns, the Sorts.
Clove-Gilly-Flower Syrup.
Cucumbers, to pickle.
Codlings, to pickle, green.
Ditto to pickle Mango.
Cherry-Brandy.
Cherry-Beer.
Cherry-Cordial.
Cherries distill'd.
Cherry, Cornelian, in Brandy.
Calf's Feet Jelly.
Cockles, pickled.
Capons, to set upon Eggs.
D.
Dairy, how to build.
Different Sorts of Goosberries.
Different Sorts of Currans.
Ducks, wild, to roast.
Ducks, wild, hash'd.
E.
Eels, their time of Breeding.
Ditto in plenty.
Eggs, to prepare six ways.
Eels, to clear from Mud.
Ditto to roast.
Ditto to Pitchcot.
Ditto to Collar.
Elder-Flowers, to dry.
Elder Vinegar.
Elder-Wine, red.
Ditto white.
_English_-Wine.
F.
Fowls and Birds, the Difference.
Fowl, to dress.
Ditto to farce.
Fricassee of Chickens, brown.
Ditto white.
Fish Gravey for Soups.
Flounders, pickled.
_Frontiniac_-Wine imitated.
Fruits preserv'd for Tarts.
_Florence_-Wine imitated.
_Frontiniac_-Wine to make.
Fowls, the Sorts.
Fish, to boil firm.
Fish boiled, the Sauce.
G.
Geese, when to buy.
Ditto to fat.
Ditto to roast.
Ditto how to kill.
Grapes, ripe early.
Grape-Wine.
H.
Herb-Soup, the Foundation.
Hops.
Hare, to pot.
Herbs, to dry.
Hare coursed, how to keep.
Ditto hunted, to dress.
Ditto the Pudding for it.
Ditto to roast.
Hare, to stew.
Hung-Beef.
Herbs infused in Spirits.
L.
Larks, to dress.
M.
Malt, which is good.
Ditto Liquor, to bottle.
Mountain-Wine, to imitate.
Milk, to be examin'd.
Mace in Rennet.
Mead, small, to make.
Metheglin or strong Mead.
Mushrooms.
Mushroom-Gravey.
Ditto Ketchup.
Mushrooms, stew'd.
Ditto broiled.
Ditto fry'd.
Mushrooms, a Foundation for Sauce.
Mushrooms, to powder.
Ditto to pickle.
Melons, green, to pickle, like Mango.
Mussels, scallop'd.
Ditto fryed.
Ditto pickled.
Morillas, to dress.
Morillas, to dry.
Ditto in Ragoust.
Ditto to fry.
O.
Orange-Flower Cordial.
Onions, pickled.
Oysters, from _Colchester._
Oysters, to stew.
Orange-Wine.
Oysters, in Scallop Shells.
Oysters, roasted.
Oysters, pickled.
Onion-Soup.
P.
Pidgeon, wild.
Ditto tame, the Sorts.
Ditto Carrier, its use.
Ditto broiled.
Ditto in Paste or Dumplings.
Ditto stew'd.
Portmanteau Pottage.
Pike, to roast.
Ditto to bake.
Pease, preserved all the Year.
Pickled Walnuts.
Ditto Cucumbers.
Ditto for Mangoes.
Ditto Kidney-Beans.
Ditto _Nasturtium_-Seeds.
Partridges stew'd with Sallery.
Ditto roasted.
Pheasants, their Sauces.
Ditto to dress.
Potatoes.
Perch, with Mushrooms.
Q.
Quince-Wine.
R.
Rennet, how made in _Essex._
Ditto another way.
Rennet-Bags, which are good.
Rennet-Bags, how to make them good.
Rennet with Spice.
Red Surfeit-Water.
_Rosa Solis,_ to distil.
Raspberry-Wine.
Red Goosberry-Wine.
Rabbit, roasted with a Pudding.
S.
Sausages of Fish.
Sausages, of Pork.
Soup of Herbs.
Shrub, to make.
Sauce Royal, or Travelling-Sauce.
Spinach, stew'd.
Sallads, to dress.
Sage-Wine.
Skerrets, to dress.
Salsify, to dress.
_Scorzonera,_ to dress.
Saffron, to cure.
Snipes, to roast.
Soup, _a L'Hyvrogne._
T.
Tokay-Wine, to imitate.
Travelling-Sauce.
Tench, which is best.
Trout in Season.
Trouts, to pot.
Tragopogon, to dress.
Truffles, to broil.
Truffles, to stew.
Truffles, ragou'd.
Turkey, to dress.
U.
Veal-Glue.
Visney.
Venison, and its Sauces.
W.
Water-Soochy.
Wines, boiled.
Wines, fermented.
Wines, to help, by Sugar.
Wines, of _St. Helena,_ reform'd.
Woodcocks, to roast.
* * * * *
TO THE
LADIES
OF
_GREAT BRITAIN, &c._
_The Reason which induces me to address the following Piece to the Fair
Sex, is, because the principal Matters contained in it are within the
Liberty of their Province. The Art of Oeconomy is divided, as Xenophon
tells us, between the Men and the Women; the Men have the most dangerous
and laborious Share of it in the Fields, and without doors, and the Women
have the Care and Management of every Business within doors, and to see
after the good ordering of whatever is belonging to the House. And this, I
conceive, is no less the Practice of these Days, than it was in the time of
that great Philosopher; therefore it may seem necessary that I make some
Apology for the Work I now publish, which, for the most part, falls within
the Ladies Jurisdiction: but I hope I am the more excusable, as my Design
is rather to assist, than to direct. I may call myself rather their
Amanuensis, than their Instructor; for the Receipts which I imagine will
give the greatest Lustre or Ornament to the following Treatise, are such as
are practised by some of the most ingenious Ladies, who had Good-nature
enough to admit of a Transcription of them for publick Benefit; and to do
them justice, I must acknowledge that every one who has try'd them, allow
them to excel in their way. The other Receipts are such as I have collected
in my Travels, as well through_ England, _as in foreign Countries, and are
such as I was prompted to enter into my List, as well for their Curiosity
as for their extraordinary Goodness._
_I could have launched much further in this Attempt, but that I confined
myself to publish only such as were necessary for the Use of a Farm; or, in
other terms, for the good ordering of every thing which is the Produce of a
Farm and Garden: And especially I am induced to publish a Tract of this
nature for two Reasons, which I think carry some sway with them._
_The first is, that I find many useful things about Farms, and in Gardens,
whose Goodness is so little known, or understood, that they are seldom
reckon'd of any account, and in most places are looked upon as
Incumbrances; such as Mushrooms, Lupines, Brocoly, Morilles, Truffles
Skirrets, Scorzonera, Salsifie, Colerape, Charddones, Boorencole, and many
other such like things, which are excellent in their kind, when they are
well dress'd, and admired by the greatest Epicures._
_The other Reason which has induced me to publish this Piece, is, the
Difficulties I have undergone in my Travels, when I have met with good
Provisions, in many Places in England, which have been murder'd in the
dressing._
_I could mention many Instances as bad as the common Story of Bacon and
Eggs strewed with brown Sugar: But as this was done through Ignorance, as
the Story relates, I hope I need make no further Apology, or have occasion
to give any other Reason for making this Treatise publick, but that it may
improve the Ignorant, and remind the Learned how and when to make the best
of every thing: which may be a means of providing every one with a
tolerable Entertainment founded upon Practice and Fashion; which can never
fail of Followers, and of making us fare much better upon the Roads in the
Country than we were used to do._
* * * * *
THE
Country Lady's
DIRECTOR
* * * * *
JANUARY
I Shall in this Month take particular notice of the Pigeon, whose
Characteristicks are chiefly to have short Legs, and their Feet of a
reddish Colour, to have long Wings, and to be quick of Flight; in which the
spreading of their Tail-Feathers greatly contribute, as well as to guide
them in the Air. They by for the most part two Eggs for one sitting, and so
more; but breed often in the Year. When Pigeons are once paired, it is
observed they are very constant to one another, and assist each other in
the Incubation or Sitting on the Eggs, as well as in bringing up and
feeding the young ones; and moreover it is remarkable, that a Pigeon has no
Gall-Bladder.
The sorts are, first, the blue wild Pigeon, which is the most frequent in
Dove-Cotes, but is not very large, nor disposed to breed so early in the
Spring as some others: they are, however, a hardy kind, and will thrive any
where, if there is plenty of Water; for tho' they are not of a watery Race,
yet it is observable, that they covet to be where it is, and that they feed
frequently upon the Banks of Rivers and Ponds. I have known that where
there were two Dove-Cotes, that stood within a Mile of one another, and one
of them was near a River, and the other remote from it, the Pigeons of the
House distant from the Water, left their Habitation to reside in that next
the River, even tho' they had an Allowance of good Feed at home.
Among the tame Pigeons, those which the _Italians_ call'd _Tronfo_, and we
Runts, are the largest; but these may be again distinguish'd under the
Characters of greater and smaller: those which are commonly call'd the
_Spanish_ Runts, are very much esteem'd, being the largest sort of Pigeon,
and are sluggish, and more slow of flight, than the smaller sort of Runts;
but the smaller Runts are better Breeders, and quick of flight, which is to
be esteem'd; because if they were to seek their Food far, they can range
much more Ground, or return home much quicker on occasion of stormy or wet
Weather. As for the Colours of their Feathers, they are uncertain, so that
one cannot judge of the sort by them.
The next, which makes the largest Figure, but is not in reality the largest
Bird, is the Cropper; it is so named, because they usually do, by
attracting the Air, blow up their Crops to an extraordinary bigness, even
so sometimes as to be as large as their Bodies. This sort is esteemed the
better, as it can swell its Crop to the largest Size. The Bodies of this
sort are about the bigness of the smaller Runt, but somewhat more slender.
This sort, like the former, is of various Colours in the Feathers.
The next are those Pigeons call'd Shakers, and are said to be of two sorts,
_viz._ the broad-tail'd Shaker, and the narrow-tail'd Shaker: The reason
which is assign'd for calling them Shakers, is, because they are almost
constant in wagging their Heads and Necks up and down; and the Distinction
made between the broad and narrow-tail'd Shaker, is, because the broad
tail'd sort abounds with Tail-Feathers, about twenty-six in number, as Mr.
_Ray_ observes, and the narrow-tail'd Shakers have fewer in number. These,
when they walk, carry their Tail-Feathers erect, and spread abroad like a
Turkey-Cock. They likewise have diversity of Feathers.
The next I shall take notice of, are the Jacobines, or Cappers: These are
called Cappers from certain Feathers which turn up about the back part of
the Head. There are of these that are rough-footed: these are short-bill'd,
the Iris of their Eye of a Pearl Colour, and the Head is commonly white.
The next is the _Turbit_, commonly so call'd, but what is the occasion of
the Name, is not known, unless _Turbit_, or _Turbeck_, is a Corruption of
the Word _Cortbeck_, or _Cortbeke_, which is the Name the _Hollanders_ give
them, and seems to be derived from the _French_, where _Court-bec_ would
signify a short Bill, which this Pigeon is remarkable for; the Head is
flat, and the Feathers on the Breast spread both ways. These are about the
bigness of the Jacobines.
The Carrier Pigeon is the next I shall take notice of; it is so call'd from
the Use which is sometimes made of them in carrying of Letters to and fro:
It is very sure that they are nimble Messengers, for by experience it is
found, that one of these Pigeons will fly three Miles in a Minute, or from
_St. Albans_ to _London_ in seven Minutes, which has been try'd; and I am
inform'd, that they have been sent of a much longer Message: however, they
might certainly be made very useful in Dispatches, which required speed, if
we were to train them regularly between one House and another. We have an
account of them passing and repassing with Advices between _Hirtius_ and
_Brutus_, at the Siege of _Modena_, who had, by laying Meat for them in
some high Places, instructed their Pigeons to fly from place to place for
their Meat, having before kept them hungry, and shut up in a dark Place.
These are about the size of common Pigeons, and of a dark blue or blackish
Colour, which is one way of distinguishing them from other sorts: they are
also remarkable for having their Eyes compass'd about with a broad Circle
of naked spungy Skin, and for having the upper Chap of their Beak cover'd
more than half from the Head with a double Crust of the like naked fungous
Body. The Bill, or Beak, is moderately long, and black. These Birds are of
that Nature, that tho' they are carried many Miles from the place where
they were bred, or brought up, or have themselves hatch'd, or bred up any
young ones, they will immediately return home as soon as we let them fly.
Perhaps this may, in some measure, depend upon the Affection the Male or
Female bear to one another. When they are to be used as Carriers, two
Friends must agree to keep them, one in _London_, and the other at
_Guilford_, or elsewhere; the Person that lives at _Guilford_ must take two
or three Cocks or Hens that were bred at his Friend's at _London_, and the
other two or three that were bred at _Guilford_; when the Person at
_London_ has occasion to send an Express, he must roll up a little piece of
Paper, and tie it gently with a small String pass'd thro'it about the
Pigeon's Neck. But it must be observ'd before, that the Pigeons you design
to send with a Message, be kept pretty much in the dark, and without Meat,
for eight or ten Hours before you turn them out, and they will then rise
and turn round till they have found their way, and continue their Flight
till they have got home. With two or three of these Pigeon's on each side,
a Correspondence might be carried on in a very expeditious manner,
especially in Matters of Curiosity, or those things which tend to publick
Good. I know a Gentleman that has set out on a Journey early in the
Morning, where it was judged to be dangerous travelling, that has taken one
of this sort of Pigeons in his Pocket, and at his Journey's End, which he
tells me was near thirty Miles distant from his House, has turn'd off the
Pigeon, and it has been at its feeding Place in nine or ten Minutes, with
an Account of his safety. In _Turkey_ it is very customary for these
Pigeons to be taken on board a Ship that sails, by the Captain, and if any
thing extraordinary happens within the distance of six or eight Leagues,
the Pigeon is sent back with Advice, which sometimes may be a means of
saving a Ship from being taken by the Pyrates, or other Enemies, and
expedite Trade.
The _Barbary_ Pigeon, or _Barb_, is another sort, whose Bill is like that
of the _Turbit_, i.e. short and thick, and a broad and naked Circle of a
spungy white Substance round about the Eye, like that in the Carrier
Pigeon. The Iris of the Eye is white, if the Feathers of the Pigeon are
inclining to a darkish Colour; but is red, if the Feathers are white, as we
find in other white Birds.
Smiters are another sort of Pigeon, suppos'd to be the same that the
_Hollanders_ call _Draijers._ This sort shake their Wings as they fly, and
rise commonly in a circular manner in their flight; the Males for the most
part rising higher than the Females, and frequently falling and flapping
them with their Wings, which produces a noise that one may hear a great
way; from whence it happens that their Quill-Feathers are commonly broken
or shatter'd. These are almost like the Pigeon call'd the Tumbler; the
difference chiefly is, that the Tumbler is something smaller, and in its
flight will turn itself backward over its Head. The diversity of colours in
the Feathers makes no difference.
The Helmet is another kind of Pigeon distinguish'd from the others, because
it has the Head, the Quill-Feathers, and the Tail-Feathers always of one
colour: Sometimes black, sometimes white, or red, or blue, or yellow; but
the other Feathers of the Body are of a different colour.
The next Pigeon I shall take notice of, is that which is call'd the light
Horseman; this is supposed to be a cross strain between a Cock Cropper and
a Hen of the Carrier Breed, because they seem to partake of both, as
appears from the exerescent Flesh on their Bills, and the swelling of their
Crops; but I am not determin'd concerning that point, nor can give any good
Judgment about it, till I have seen whether the Cropper be the Male or
Female, upon which depends a Debate in Natural Philosophy, which has not
been yet decided; this sort however is reckon'd the best Breeder, and are
not inclin'd to leave the place of their Birth, or the House where they
have been accustom'd.
The _Bastard-bill Pigeon_ is another sort, which is somewhat bigger than
the _Barbary_ Pigeon; they have short Bills, and are generally said to have
red Eyes, but I suppose those colour'd Eyes are belonging only to those
which have white Feathers.
There is also a Pigeon call'd the _Turner_, which is said to have a Tuft of
Feathers hanging backward on the Head, which parts, as Mr. _Ray_ says, like
a Horse's Main.
There is a smaller sort than the former call'd the _Finikin_, but in other
respects like the former. There is a sort of Pigeon call'd the _Spot_,
suppos'd, and with good Judgment, to take its Name from the Spot on its
Forehead just above its Bill, and the Feathers of its Tail always of the
same colour with the Spots, and all the other Feathers are white.
Lastly, I shall take notice of the Pigeon call'd the _Mawmet_, or
_Mahomet_, supposed to be brought from _Turkey_; however, it is singular
for its large black Eyes; the other parts are like those of the _Barbary_
Pigeon.
These are the sorts of Pigeons generally known, for the large _Italian_
Pigeons are only the larger Runts; and I am of opinion, that the diversity
of colours in Pigeons only proceeds from the diversity of kinds of Pigeons,
that couple with one another; for I have known Swine that have been
whole-footed, that have coupled with those that were clovenfooted, and the
Pigs that were produced, were partaking of whole and cloven Hoofs, some
one, some two cloven Hoofs, and the rest whole Hoofs.
Concerning the Life of a Pigeon, _Aristotle_ says, that a Pigeon will live
forty Years, but _Albertus_ finishes the Life of a Pigeon at twenty Years;
however, _Aldrovandus_ tells us of a Pigeon, which continued alive two and
twenty Years, and bred all that time except the last six Months, during
which space it had lost its Mate, and lived in Widowhood. There is a
remarkable Particular mention'd by _Aldrovandus_ relating to the Pigeon,
which is, that the young Pigeons always bill the Hens as often as they
tread them, but the elder Pigeons only bill the Hens the first time before
coupling. _Pliny_ and _Athenaeus_, from _Aristotle_, tell us, that it is
peculiar to Pigeons not to hold up their Heads when they drink as other
Birds and Fowls do, but to drink like Cattle by sucking without
intermission; it is easily observed, and worth Observation.
To distinguish which are the Males and Females among Pigeons, it is chiefly
known by the Voice and Cooing; the Female has a small weak Voice, and the
Male a loud and deep Voice.
The Flesh of Pigeons is hard of Digestion, and therefore is not judged a
proper Supper-meat; it is said to yield a melancholy Juice, but if boil'd
are very tender, or roasted while they are called Squabs, _viz._ Pigeons
about four days old, they are much better for the stomach, and then
commonly yield, among the Curious in eating, about eighteen Pence, or two
Shillings a piece. The Food which is generally given to Pigeons is Tares;
but if we were to mix Spurry-Seeds with it, or Buckwheat, those Grains
would forward their breeding, as has been try'd: however, if Pigeons are
fed only with Tares, and are of a good kind, we may expect them to breed
nine or ten times in a Year; but sometimes, perhaps, not hatch above one at
a time, tho' if they were in full Vigour, they would breed up a Pair at one
sitting.
In the feeding of Pigeons, it is adviseable not to let them have more Meat
at one time than they can eat, for they are apt to toss it about, and lose
a great deal of it; so that the contrivance of filling a stone Bottle with
their Meat, and putting the Mouth downwards, so that it may come within an
Inch of a Plain or Table, and will give a supply as they feed, is much the
best way. And their drinking-water should be dispensed to them in the same
way out of a Bottle revers'd with the Mouth into a narrow shallow Cistern;
but at the same time they should not want the conveniency of a Pan of
Water, if there can be no better had, to wash themselves in, for they are
of themselves a Bird subject to contract Dirt and Fleas. This is what I
shall say of the breeding of tame Pigeons at present.
As to the preparing of Pigeons for the Table, they are commonly either
roasted, boiled, baked, or broiled; these are so generally understood, that
I need not mention them, nor that Parsley is almost become necessary with
them either to be roasted or boiled in the Body of the Pigeon, or put in
the Sauces for them: this every one knows, but that the Liver of the Pigeon
should be always left in the Body of it, is not known every where,
otherwise it would not be so generally taken out and lost, as it is in many
places remote from _London_; but this may be, perhaps, because every one
does not know that a Pigeon has no Gall. As to particular ways of Dressing
of Pigeons, there are two or three which I think are excellent. The first I
had from a Lady in _Essex_, whom I have had occasion to mention in this and
other Works, and that is in respect to broiling of Pigeons whole. When the
Pigeon is prepared for the Kitchen, tye the Skin of the Neck very tight
with Packthread, and put into the Body a little Pepper, Salt, Butter, and a
little Water at the Vent, and tie it up close at the Neck, broil this upon
a gentle Fire, flowring it very well, and basting it with Butter. When this
is brought to Table, it brings its Sauce in itself. To those who are not
lovers of Spice or Salt, the Butter and Water will be sufficient to draw
the Gravy in the Pigeon: but a Pigeon that is split and broiled is of a
very different Taste from this, and not worthy, in my opinion, to be
reckon'd with it.
Another way of ordering Pigeons, which I met with by accident, and pleased
me as well as several Gentlemen in my Company, was the boiling of Pigeons
in Paste: The Receipt the People gave me for it, was, to fill the Belly of
the Pigeon with Butter, a little Water, some Pepper and Salt, and cover it
with a thin light Paste, and then to put it in a fine Linen Cloth, and boil
it for a time in proportion to its bigness, and serve it up. When this is
cut open, it will yield Sauce enough of a very agreeable Relish.
Stewing of Pigeons, from Mons. _La Fountaine,_ an excellent Cook in
_Paris._
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