Books: A Lady\'s Visit to the Gold Diggings of Australia in 1852 53

M >> Mrs Charles (Ellen) Clacy >> A Lady\'s Visit to the Gold Diggings of Australia in 1852 53

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We had hardly reached Fryer's Creek itself when we saw a vast concourse
of people gathered together. Frank and my brother remained with me at a
little distance, whilst Octavius and William went to learn the occasion
of this commotion. It arose from an awful accident which had just
occurred.

Three brothers were working in a claim beside the stream, some way
apart from the other diggers. The heavy rain during the night had
raised the water, and the ground between the hole where they were
working and the Creek, had given way imperceptibly UNDERNEATH. One
brother, who was early in the hole at work, fancied that the water at
the bottom was gradually rising above his knees; he shouted to his
comrades, but unfortunately they had gone, one, one way, one, another,
in quest of something, and it was some minutes ere they returned.

Meanwhile the water in the hole was slowly but surely rising, and the
slippery sides which were several feet high defied him to extricate
himself. His cries for help became louder--he was heard, and his
brothers and some neighbours hastened to his assistance. Ropes were
procured after some further delay, and thrown to the unhappy man--but
it was too late. None dared approach very near, for the ground was like
a bog, and might at any moment give way beneath their feet; the water
was nearly level with the top of the hole, and all hope of saving him
was gone. The brothers had often been warned of the danger they
were running.

Shuddering at the thoughts of this awful death we turned away, but no
change of scene could dissipate it from our minds--the remembrance of
it haunted me for many a night.

Jessie seemed pleased to see us on our return--we had left her behind
with Gregory to his great delight--we abstained from mentioning before
her the fearful accident we had but witnessed.

That evening we wandered about Forest Creek. We had not gone far before
a digger with a pistol in his hand shot by us; he was followed by an
immense mob, hooting, yelling, and screaming, as only a mob at the
diggings can. It was in full pursuit, and we turned aside only in time
to prevent ourselves from being knocked down in the confusion.

"Stop him--stop him," was the cry. He was captured, and the cry changed
to, "String him up--string him up--it's useless taking him to the
police-office."

"What has he done?" asked my brother of a quiet by-stander.

"Shot a man in a quarrel at a grogshop."

"String him up--string him up--confront him with the body," vociferated
the mob.

At this moment the firmly-secured and well-guarded culprit passed by, to
be confronted with the dead body of his adversary. No sooner did he
come into his presence than the CI-DEVANT corpse found his feet,
"showed fight," and roared out, "Come on," with a most unghostlike
vehemence. The fury of the mob cooled down; the people thought the man
had been murdered, whereas the shot, fortunately for both, had glanced
over the forehead without doing any serious injury. Taking advantage of
this lull, the fugitive declared that the wounded man had been robbing
him. This turned the tables, and, inspired by the hootings of the now
indignant mob, the "dead man" took to his heels and disappeared.

The diggers in Pennyweight Flat, Nicholson's Gully, Lever Flat, Dirty
Dick's Gully, Gibson's Flat, at the mouth of Dingley Dell, and in
Dingley Dell itself, were tolerably contented with their gains,
although in many instances, the parties who were digging in the
centre of the gullies, or what is called "the slip," experienced
considerable trouble in bailing the water out of their holes.

Some of the names given to the spots about Forest Creek are anything
but euphonious. Dingley Dell is, however, an exception, and sounds
quite musical compared to Dirty Dick's Gully. The former name was given
to the place by a gentleman from Adelaide, and was suggested by the
perpetual tinkling of the bullock's bells, it being a favourite camping
place for bullock drivers, offering, as it did, an excellent supply of
both wood, water, and food for their cattle. From whom the latter
inelegant name originated I cannot precisely tell--but there are plenty
of "dirty Dicks" all over the diggings.

The current prices of this date at Forest Creek were as follows:
flour, 9 to 10 pounds per hundred-weight; sugar, 1s. 6d. a pound,
very scarce; tea, 3s.; rice, 1s.; coffee, 3s.; tobacco, 8s.; cheese,
3s.; butter, 4s.; honey, 3s. 6d.; candles, 1s. 6d; currants, 1s. 6d.,
very scarce; raisins, 1s. 6d.; figs, 2s. 6d.; salt, 1s. 6d. Picks, spades,
and tin dishes, 10s. each. Gold 64s. per ounce.

TUESDAY, 19.--Before breakfast we were busily employed in packing the
"swags" when Octavius suddenly dropped the strap he held in his hand
for that purpose, and darted into the store. Thinking that we had
omitted something which he went to fetch, we continued our work. When
everything was ready and the last strap in its place, we again thought
of our absent comrade, making all sorts of surmises regarding his
disappearance, when, just as Frank was going after him, in he walked,
accompanied by a stranger whom he introduced as his uncle. This
surprised us, as we were ignorant of his having any relatives in the
colonies. He then explained that a younger brother of his father's had
about eight years ago gone to South Australia, and that never having
heard of him for some years they had mourned him as dead. After many
adventures he had taken a fancy to the diggings, and had just come from
Melbourne with a dray full of goods. He went to Gregory's store to
dispose of them. Octavius had heard them in conversation
together, and had mistaken his uncle's for his father's voice. Hence
the precipitation of his exit. The uncle was a tall sunburnt man, who
looked well-inured to hardship and fatigue. He stayed and took
breakfast with us, and then having satisfactorily arranged his business
with Gregory, and emptied his dray, he obligingly offered to convey
Jessie and myself to Melbourne in it. Accordingly after dinner we all
started together.

Our new companion was a most agreeable person, and his knowledge of the
colonies was extensive. With anecdotes of the bush, the mines, and the
town, he made the journey pass most pleasantly. Before evening we
reached the Golden Point near Mount Alexander. This term of "Golden"
has been applied to a great many spots where the deposits have been
richer than, usual. There was a Golden Point at Ballarat, and when the
report of the Alexander diggings drew the people from there, they
carried the name with them, and applied it to this portion of the
mount. To the left of the Point, which was still full of labourers, was
the store of Mr. Black, with the Union-Jack flying above it. It is a
most noted store, and at one time when certain delicacies were
not to be had in Melbourne they were comparatively cheap here.

We passed by this busy spot and encamped at sunset at the foot of Mount
Alexander. It was a lovely evening and our eyes were feasted by a Most
glorious sight. All the trees of the forest gradually faded away in the
darkness, but beyond them, and through them were glimpses of the
granite-like walls of the mount, brilliantly shining in and reflecting
the last glowing rays of the setting sun. Some of the gorgeous scenes
of fairy-land seemed before us--we could have imagined that we were
approaching by night some illuminated, some enchanted castle.

That evening we sat late round our fire listening to the history which
the uncle of Octavius related of some of his adventures in South
Australia. The posts he had filled formed a curious medley of
occupations, and I almost forget the routine in which they followed one
another, but I will endeavour to relate his story as much as possible
in his own words.

"When I started from England, after having paid passage-money, &c., I
found myself with about 200 pounds ready money in my purse--it was all
I had to expect, and I determined to be very careful of it; but by a
young man of five-and-twenty these resolutions, like lady's promises,
are made to be broken. When I landed in Adelaide with my money in my
pocket--minus a few pounds I had lost at whist and cribbage on board
ship--I made my way to the best inn, where I stayed some days, and ran
up rather a longish bill. Then I wanted to see the country, which I
found impossible without a horse, so bought one, and rode about to the
various stations, where I was generally hospitably received, and thus
passed a few months very pleasantly, only my purse was running low. I
sold the horse, then my watch, and spent the money. When that was gone,
I thought of the letters of introduction I possessed. The first that
came to hand was directed to a Wesleyan minister. I called there,
looking as sanctimonious as I could. He heard my story, advised me to
go to chapel regularly, 'And for your temporal wants,' said he, 'the
Lord will provide.' I thanked him, and bowed myself off.

"My first act was to burn my packet of introductory letters, my
next was to engage myself to a stock-holder at 15s. a week and my
rations. He was going up to his station at once, and I accompanied him.
We travelled for about two hundred miles through a most beautiful
country before we reached his home. His house was, in my ideas, a
comical-looking affair--made of split logs of wood, with a bark roof,
and a barrel stuck on the top of the roof at one end by way of a
chimney-pot. His wife, a pale sickly little woman, seemed pleased to
see us, for she had been much alarmed by the natives, who were rather
numerous about the neighbourhood. There was only a young lad, and an
old shepherd and his wife upon the station, besides herself. Before I
had been there six weeks she died, and her new-born little baby died
too; there was not a doctor for miles, and the shepherd's wife was
worse than useless. I believe this often happens in the bush--it's not a
place for woman-folks.

"I was here eighteen months--it was a wild sort of life, and just suited
my fancy; but when I found I had some money to receive, I thought a
spree in town would be a nice change, so off I marched. My spree lasted
as long as my money, and then I went as barman to a
public-house at Clare, some way up the country--here I got better wages
and better board, and stopped about half-a-year. Then I turned brewer's
drayman, and delivered casks of good Australian ale about Adelaide for
30s. a week. The brewer failed, and I joined in a speculation with an
apple dealer to cart a lot up to the Kapunda copper mines. That paid
well. I stopped up there as overseer over four-and-twenty
bullock-drays. Well, winter came, and I had little to do, though I drew
my 30s. a week regularly enough, when the directors wanted a contract
for putting the small copper-dust into bags, and sewing them up. I
offered to do the job at 2d. a bag, and could get through a hundred and
fifty a day. How much is that? Oh! 12s. 6d. a-piece. I forgot to tell
you I'd a mate at the work. That was good earnings in those days; and
me and my mate, who was quite a lad, were making a pretty penny, when
some others offered to do them a halfpenny a bag cheaper. I did the
same, and we kept it to ourselves for about four weeks longer, when a
penny a bag was offered. There was competition for you! This roused
my bile--I threw it up altogether--and off to Adelaide again.
Soon spent all my cash, and went into a ship-chandler's office till
they failed; then was clerk to a butcher, and lost my situation for
throwing a quarter of his own mutton at him in a rage; and then I again
turned brewer's man. Whilst there I heard of the diggings--left the
brewer and his casks to look after themselves, and off on foot to
Ballarat.

"Here I found the holes averaging some thirty feet--which was a style of
hard work I didn't quite admire; so hearing of the greater facility of
the Alexander diggings, I went through Bully Rook Forest, and tried my
luck in the Jim Crow Ranges. This paid well; and I bought a dray, and
bring up goods to the stores, which I find easier work, and twice as
profitable as digging. There's my story; and little I thought when I
went into Gregory's store to-day, that I should find my curly-pated
nephew ready to hear it."

Next day we travelled on, and halted near Saw-pit Gully; it was early
in the afternoon, and we took a walk about this most interesting
locality. The earth was torn up everywhere--a few lucky hits
had sufficed to re-collect a good many diggers there, and they were
working vigorously. At dusk the labour ceased--the men returned to
their tents, and for the last time our ears were assailed by the
diggers' usual serenade. Imagine some hundreds of revolvers almost
instantaneously fired--the sound reverberating through the mighty
forests, and echoed far and near--again and again till the last faint
echo died away in the distance. Then a hundred blazing fires burst upon
the sight--around them gathered the rough miners themselves--their
sun-burnt, hair-covered faces illumined by the ruddy glare. Wild songs,
and still wilder bursts of laughter are heard; gradually the flames
sink and disappear, and an oppressive stillness follows (sleep rarely
refuses to visit the diggers' lowly couch), broken only by some
midnight carouser, as he vainly endeavours to find his tent. No fear of
a "peeler" taking him off to a police-station, or of being brought
before a magistrate next morning, and "fined five shillings for being
drunk."

Early on Tuesday morning I gave a parting look to the diggings--our dray
went slowly onwards--a slight turn in the road, and the last
tent has vanished from my sight. "Never," thought I, "shall I look on
such a scene again!"

Chapter XII.

RETURN TO MELBOURNE

Before the evening of Wednesday the 20th, we passed through Kyneton,
and found ourselves in the little village of Carlshrue, where we passed
the night. Here is a police-station, a blacksmith's, a few stores and
some cottages, in one of which we obtained a comfortable supper and
beds. A lovely view greeted us at sunrise. Behind us were still
towering the lofty ranges of Mount Alexander, before us was Mount
Macedon and the Black Forest. This mountain, which forms one of what is
called the Macedon range, is to be seen many miles distant, and on a
clear, sunny day, the purple sides of Mount Macedon, which
stands aloof as it were, from the range itself, are distinctly visible
from the flag-staff at Melbourne.

We had intended to have stopped for the night in Kyneton, but the
charges there were so enormous that we preferred pushing on and taking
our chance as to the accommodation Carlshrue could afford, nor did we
repent the so doing.

The following are the Kyneton prices. A meal or bed--both bad--4s; a
night's stabling, one pound ten shillings per horse; hay at the rate of
9d. a pound; this is the most exorbitant charge of all.

Hay was somewhere about 20 pounds a ton in Melbourne. The carriage of it
to Kyneton, now that the fine weather was setting in, would not exceed 8
pounds a ton at the outside, which would come to 28 pounds. The purchaser,
by selling it at Kyneton at the rate of 9d. a pound, or 75 pounds per ton,
cleared a profit of 47 pounds--NOT QUITE 200 PER CENT. If THIS is not
fortune-making, I should like to know what is. It beats the diggings
hollow.

Next morning we looked our last at "sweet Carlshrue," and
having crossed the Five Mile Creek, camped for our mid-day meal beside
the Black Forest. Here a slight discussion arose, as to whether it
would be more advisable to proceed on our journey and camp in the Black
Forest that night, or whether we should remain where we were outside,
and recommence our journey in good time the next morning so as to get
through this most uncomfortable portion of our travels in one day.
Frank and Octavius were for the latter plan, as the best and safest,
but the rest (thinking that, having once travelled through it without
encountering any thing resembling a bushranger, they might safely do so
again) protested against wasting time, and were for entering those dark
shades without further delay. The uncle of Octavius whom, in future,
for the sake of convenience, I shall call Mr. L----, was also of this
mind, and as he was in some sort our leader during the journey, his
advice decided the matter. Danger to him was only a necessary
excitement. He was naturally fearless, and his merry laugh and gay joke
at the expense of the bushranger fearing party gradually dissipated the
unaccountable presentiment of danger which I for one had in no
small degree experienced.

On we went, up hill and down dale, sometimes coming to a more open
piece of ground, but more generally threading our way amid a very maze
of trees, with trunks all black as the ground itself, whilst the dingy
foliage and the few rays of sunshine that lit up those dark, deep
glades served only to heighten the gloominess around.

After walking for about six miles--I preferred that mode of getting
along to the joltings of the dray--we all felt disposed to rest
ourselves. We selected a spot where the trees were less thickly
clustered, and taking the horses out of the dray, tethered them by
strong ropes to some trees near. The dray itself was turned up, and a
blanket thrown over the up-raised shafts formed a most complete and
cosy little tent.

A fire was next kindled, and a kettle full of water (with the tea in
it!) was placed on to boil, some home-made bread, brought from
Carlshrue, was placed upon the ground, and some chops were toasted on
the ends of sticks, which are usually the impromptu
toasting-forks of the bush. The old tin plates and pannicans, not quite
so bright as once upon a time, but showing, despite sundry bruises and
scratches, that they had seen better days, were placed upon the
tea-table, which of course was the ground. Two or three knives and
forks were on general service, and wandered about from hand to hand as
occasion required. Altogether it was a merry, sociable party, and I
think I enjoyed that supper better than any I ever tasted before or
since.

"CHACUN A SON GOUT," many a one will say.

The pleasantest moments must come to an end, and so did these. After
having sat up later than usual, Jessie and I retired to our gipsy tent,
leaving our guardian diggers smoking round the fire. They meant to keep
watches during the night to prevent a surprise.

FRIDAY.--We were comfortably seated at our breakfast, discussing a
hundred subjects besides the food before us, when a shrill "coo-ey"
burst through the air; "coo-ey"--"coo-ey" again and again, till the very
trees seemed to echo back the sound. We started to our feet, and,
as if wondering what would come next, looked blankly at each
other, and again the "coo-ey," more energetic still, rang in our ears.
This is the call of the bush, it requires some little skill and
practice, and when given well can be heard a great way off. In such a
place as the Black Forest it could only proceed from some one who had
lost their way, or be a signal of distress from some party in absolute
danger. We again looked from one to the other--it bewildered us; and
again the cry, only more plaintive than before, came to us.
Simultaneously they seized their pistols, and started in the direction
whence the sounds proceeded. They were all too true Englishmen to hear
a fellow-creature in peril and not hasten to their succour.

Jessie and myself could not remain behind alone--it was impossible; we
followed at a little distance, just keeping our comrades in sight. At
last they came to a halt, not knowing where to turn, and we joined
them. Frank gave a "coo-ey," and in about the space of a minute the
words "help, help,--come, come," in scarcely, audible sounds, answered
to the call. We penetrated about thirty yards farther, and a few low
groans directed us to a spot more obscure, if possible, than
the rest. There, firmly bound to two trees close together, were two
men. A thick cord was passed round and round their bodies, arms, and
legs, so as to leave no limb at liberty. They seemed faint and
exhausted at having called so long for help.

It was the work of a moment for our party to fling down their pistols,
take out knives and tomahawks, and commence the work of releasing them
from their bonds. But the cords were knotted and thick, and there
seemed no little labour in accomplishing it. They were also retarded by
the small quantity of light, for, as I said before, it was a dark and
secluded spot. At length one man was released, and so faint and
exhausted was he, from the effects of whatever ill-usage he had
suffered, that, being a tall, powerfully made man, it required the
united strength of both Frank and Mr. L---- to prevent his falling to
the ground.

Jessie and myself were standing a little apart in the shade; we seemed
as if spell-bound by the incident, and incapable of rendering any
assistance.

The second was soon set at liberty, and no sooner did he feel
his hands and feet free from the cords than he gave a loud, shrill
"coo-ey."

A shriek burst from Jessie's lips as, immediately the cry was uttered,
and before any one could, recover from the bewilderment it occasioned,
four well-armed men sprang upon our startled party.

Taken thus at disadvantage, unarmed, their very knives flung down in
their eagerness to untwist the cords, they were soon overpowered. The
wretch who had been reclining in Frank's arms quickly found his feet,
and, ere Frank could recover from his surprise, one heavy blow flung
him to the ground; whilst the other twined his powerful arms round Mr.
L----, and, after a short but sharp struggle, in which he was assisted
by a fellow-villain, succeeded in mastering him.

It was a fearful sight, and I can hardly describe my feelings as I
witnessed it. My brain seemed on fire, the trees appeared to reel
around me, when a cold touch acted as a sudden restorative, and almost
forced a scream from my lips. It was Jessie's hand, cold as marble,
touching mine. We spoke together in a low whisper, and both
seemed inspired by the same thoughts, the same hope.

"I saw a little hill as we came here," said Jessie; "let's try and find
it and look out for help."

I instinctively followed her, and stealthily creeping along, we gained
a small rise of ground which commanded a more extended view than most
places in the Black Forest, and, but for the thickness of the trees, we
could have seen our own camping-place and the part where the ambuscade
had been laid. From sounds of the voices, we could tell that the
ruffians were leading their prisoners to the spot where we had passed
the night, and the most fearful oaths and imprecations could ever and
anon be heard. Well might our hearts beat with apprehension, for it was
known that when disappointed in obtaining the gold they expected, they
vented their rage in torturing their unfortunate victims.

Meanwhile Jessie seemed listening intently. The time she had spent in
the bush and at the diggings had wonderfully refined her sense of
hearing. Suddenly she gave a shrill "coo-ey." The moment after a shot
was fired in the direction of our late camp. Jessie turned even
paler, but recovering herself, "coo-ey" after "coo-ey" made the echoes
ring. I joined my feeble, efforts to hers; but she was evidently well
used to this peculiar call. On a fine still day, this cry will reach
for full three miles, and we counted upon this fact for obtaining some
assistance.

"Help is coming," said Jessie, in a low voice, and once more with
increasing strength she gave the call.

Footsteps approached nearer and nearer. I looked up, almost expecting
to see those villainous countenances again.

"Women in danger!" shouted a manly voice, and several stalwart figures
bounded to our side.

"Follow, follow!" cried Jessie, rushing forwards. I scarcely remember
everything that occurred, for I was dizzy with excess of pleasure.
There was a short scuffle, shots were fired at retreating bushrangers,
and we saw our friends safe and free.

The whole, matter was then related to our preservers--for such they
were--and I then learnt that when the bushrangers had marched
off our party to the camping-place, they proceeded to overhaul their
pockets, and then bound them securely to some trees, whilst one stood
ready with a pistol to shoot the first that should call for help, and
the others looked over the plunder. This was little enough, for our
travelling money, which was notes, was kept--strange treasury--in the
lining of the body of my dress, and here too were the gold receipts
from the Escort Office. Every night I took out about sufficient to
defray the day's expenses, and this was generally given into Frank's
hands.

Enraged and disappointed, the villains used most frightful language,
accompanied by threats of violence; and the one on guard, irritated
beyond his powers of endurance, fired the pistol in the direction of
William's head. At this moment Jessie's first "coo-ey" was heard: this
startled him, and the shot, from the aim of the pistol being
disarranged, left him unhurt.

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