Books: A Lady\'s Visit to the Gold Diggings of Australia in 1852 53
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Mrs Charles (Ellen) Clacy >> A Lady\'s Visit to the Gold Diggings of Australia in 1852 53
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According to Mr. Stutchbury's report, he found gold ALMOST WHEREVER HE
TRIED FOR IT, and whilst traversing the Macquarie from Walgumballa to
the Turon, he found it at EVERY place he tried. Surely Midas must, once
upon a time, have taken a pleasure-trip to Australia!
The delirium of the Sydney gold-fever reached its height when it became
publicly known that a piece of one hundred and six pounds weight had
been disembowelled from the earth, at one time. This immense quantity
was the discovery of a native, who, being excited by the universal
theme of conversation, provided himself with a tomahawk, and explored
the country adjacent to his employer's land. He was attracted
by a glittering yellow substance on the surface of a block of quartz.
With his tomahawk he broke off a piece, which he carried home to his
master, Dr. Kerr, of Wallawa. Not being able to move the mass
conveniently, Dr. Kerr broke it into small fragments. The place where
it was found is at the commencement of an undulating table-land, very
fertile, and near to a never-failing supply of water in the Murroo
Creek. It is distant about fifty miles from Bathurst, thirty from
Wellington, and twenty from the nearest point of the Macquarie river.
Dr. Kerr presented the native and his brother with two flocks of sheep,
two saddle-horses, a quantity of rations, a team of bullocks, and some
land.
About twenty yards from the spot where this mass was found, a piece of
gold called the "Brennan Nugget" was soon after discovered. It weighed
three hundred and thirty-six ounces, and was sold in Sydney for more
than 1,100 pounds.
But it would be useless to enter into fuller particulars of the
diggings of New South Wales. Panoramas, newspapers, and serials have
made them familiar to all.
Chapter XV.
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, was the last formed of the
three sister colonies. In 1834 an act of colonization was obtained; and
land, both in town and country, sold rapidly. The colonists, however,
were most unfortunately more engaged in speculating with the land, than
grazing upon or tilling it; and the consequence was, that in a few
years the South Australians were only saved from a famine by the
unexpected arrival overland of herds and flocks from Victoria. As it
was, horses and cows of a very indifferent kind were sold for
more than a hundred pounds a-piece, and sheep for five pounds a head.
The discovery of the copper mines alone saved the country from ruin.
The first was the Kapunda. It was accidentally discovered by a
shepherd, who picked up a piece on the surface of the ground, and
showed it to his master. Pieces of copper ore may even now be found in
the same way.
Next followed the far-famed Burra-Burra. In the latter mine there is a
great quantity of malachite, which, when smelted, gives copper at an
average of eighty-five per cent.
South Australia possesses the finest river in Australia--namely, the
Murray, on which steamers will soon ply as far as five hundred miles up
the country. On either side of this river is a thick and dry
scrub--sometimes ten, sometimes thirty miles wide. In this scrub, manna
is not unfrequently found, to the great delight of the natives, who are
very fond of it. It is of a very excellent description, and in colour
has a slight tendency to pink.
Adelaide itself is a well-laid out town. The streets are built in the
same manner as in Sydney and Melbourne; but those in Adelaide are much
wider. Many of the buildings and warehouses are highly creditable,
particularly when we take the juvenile age of the colony into
consideration.
Adelaide has never yet been "a transportation colony," and the society
there is usually considered more RECHERCHE than in any other city in
Australia. The climate is very good, and the vine flourishes as in the
south of France. The principal export of South Australia is copper, to
which may be added some wool and tallow.
The roads about are excellent, and the small farms in the neighbourhood
are more in the English style than one could expect to meet with so
many thousand miles away from home.
The overland route from Adelaide to Melbourne is about four hundred
miles in length. In summer the road is pretty good, but in winter, a
lake or swamp of twenty miles extent has to be waded through.
The scrub about South Australia is very thick, and any one may easily
lose themselves in it. This has in fact often been the case, and a
fearful instance of it occurred some few years ago. A young lady--the
daughter of a gentleman residing near Adelaide--started out one Sunday
afternoon with a book as her companion. Evening came, and she did not
return, which alarmed her family, and search was made far and near--but
in vain. On the fourth day, they at length discovered her lying dead at
the foot of a tree. The pages of her book were covered with sentences,
pricked in with a pin, expressive of her sufferings and of her
unavailing efforts to retrace her steps. She was only three miles from
her father's house when she sank down to die of hunger, thirst, and
exhaustion; and probably during the whole time of her wanderings had
never exceeded that distance from her home.
The Adelaide gold-diggings began to excite attention in the months of
August and September, 1852. In October the following report was made:
"Camp, Echunga, Gold-Fields,
"October 2, 1852.
"Sir,
"I have the honour to state for the information of his Excellency the
Lieutenant-Governor, that since my last report sixty licences have been
issued, making a total of three hundred and fifty-six. * * * * Many
families of respectability have arrived, and are now living in
comfortable and commodious tents. The presence of well-dressed women
and children gives to the gold-fields, apparently distinguished for
decorum, security and respectability.
"From the feeling of greater security and comfort, combined with
cheapness of living, all classes of diggers are unanimous in their
preference of this place to Victoria. * * * *
"The nugget of gold which I have forwarded for his Excellency's
inspection, weighing about an ounce and a half, was found about seven
feet below the surface.* * * *
"There are some few amongst the lately arrived who expressed
dissatisfaction with the result of their labours and
observations, while others, who have been working for the last month,
have promptly renewed their expired licences.
(Signed) "A. J. MURRAY,
"Assistant Gold Commissioner.
"The Hon. the Colonial Secretary."
In the month of October several pieces of gold, weighing each half an
ounce and upwards, were found, and a few of the holes that had been
abandoned by inexperienced hands, when taken possession of by old
diggers on the Turon or the Bendigo, were found to contain good washing
stuff. The diggings were well supplied with food of every kind; and
during the summer months there could be no lack of fruits and
vegetables in abundance, at reasonable prices, supplied from the
numerous and well-cultivated farms and gardens around. This is
certainly an advantage over the diggings of Victoria or New South
Wales, if gold really does exist in paying quantities; if not, all the
fruit and vegetables in the world would not keep the diggers at
Echunga.
The following "Lament" was circulated in Adelaide, but not one of the
newspapers there would print it. They were all too anxious for the
success of their diggings, to countenance any grumblers against them:
A LAMENT FOR MY THIRTY SHILLINGS,
DEDICATED TO THE ECHUNGA VICTIMS,
My one pound ten! my one pound ten!
I paid as Licence Fee;
Ah! cruel Bonney! pray return,
That one pound ten to me.
When to Echunga diggings first
I hastened up from town,
Thy tent I sought with anxious care
And paid the money down.
And though my folly ever since
I bitterly deplore,
It soothes my mind to know there were
Three scores of fools before.
Then, Bonney, listen to my lay,
And if you wish to thrive,
Send back the money quick to me,
To number sixty-five.
Who wants but little here below,
Nor wants that little long,
Had better to Echunga go,
And not to Mount Coorong.
But as for me I like a swag,
At least a little more
Than what we got there in a week--
Eight pennyweights 'mongst four.
For that, of surface earth we washed
Of dray loads half a score;
I'll swear that cradling never seemed
Such tedious work before.
To sink for gold we then commenced,
With grief I must confess,
'Twas fruitless toil, although we went
Down thirty feet or less.
All you who've paid your one pound ten,
Are on your licence told
That then you are entitled to
Remove alluvial gold.
But if the alluvial gold's not there
I'd like to have it proved
By what ingenious process it
Can ever be removed?
Then back to Bendigo I'll haste,
To seek the precious ore;
Although my one pound ten I fear
Returns to me no more.
Yet as the boundary line I cross,
My parting prayer shall be--
Ah! cruel Bonney! pray return
My one pound ten to me!
ANTIGROPOLOS.
Adelaide, September 1852.
With a short extract from the "South Australian Register" of
February 7, 1853, I shall conclude my remarks on the Adelaide diggings.
"THE GOLD FIELDS.--Although there is at the diggings everything to
indicate gold in large quantities, none have succeeded in realizing
their hopes. The majority content themselves with what they can get on
Chapman's Hill and Gully, knowing that, if a fresh place is discovered,
they will stand as good a chance as those who have spent months
in trying to find better ground.
"The quantity of gold taken to the Assay-office, during four
consecutive weeks, amounting to less than four thousand ounces, the
Governor has proclaimed that after the 17th of February the office will
be closed."
Chapter XVI.
MELBOURNE AGAIN
It was on Monday the 25th of October, that for the second time I
entered Melbourne. Not many weeks had elapsed since I had quitted it
for my adventurous trip to the diggings, yet in that short space of
time how many changes had taken place. The cloudy sky was exchanged for
a brilliant sunshine, the chilling air for a truly tropical heat, the
drizzling rain for clouds of thick cutting dust, sometimes as thick as
a London fog, which penetrated the most substantial veil, and made our
skins smart terribly. The streets too had undergone a wondrous
transformation. Collins Street looked quite bright and cheerful, and
was the fashionable promenade of those who had time or inclination for
lounging. Parties of diggers were constantly starting or arriving,
trips to St. Kilda and Brighton were daily taking place; and a coach
was advertised to run to the diggings! I cannot quite realize the
terrified passengers being driven through the Black Forest, but can
picture their horror when ordered to "bail up" by a party of Australian
Turpins.
In every window--milliners, baby-linen warehouses, &c., included--was
exhibited the usual advertisement of the gold buyer--namely, a heap of
gold in the centre, on one side a pile of sovereigns, on the other
bank-notes. The most significant advertisement was one I saw in a
window in Collins Street. In the middle was a skull perforated by a
bullet, which lay at a little distance as if coolly examining or
speculating on the mischief it had done. On one side of the skull was a
revolver, and on the other a quantity of nuggets. Above all, was the
emphatic inscription, "Beware in time." This rather
uncomfortable-looking tableau signified--in as speaking a manner as
symbols can--that the unfortunate skull had once belonged to some more
unfortunate lucky digger, who not having had the sense to sell his gold
to the proprietor of this attractive window had kept his nuggets in his
pocket, thereby tempting some robbers--significantly personified by the
revolver--to shoot him, and steal the gold. Nowhere could you turn your
eye without meeting "30,000 oz. wanted immediately; highest price
given;" "10,000 oz. want to consign per ----; extra price given to
immediate sellers," &c. Outwardly it seemed a city of gold, yet
hundreds were half perishing for want of food, with no place of shelter
beneath which to lay their heads. Many families of freshly-arrived
emigrants--wife, children, and all--slept out in the open air; infants
were born upon the wharves with no helping hand near to support the
wretched mother in her misery.
How greatly the last few weeks had enlarged Melbourne. Cities of tents
encompassed it on all sides; though, as I said before, the trifling
comfort of a canvas roof above them, was denied to the poorest
of the poor, unless a weekly tax were paid!
But I must return to ourselves. Our first business the next morning was
to find for our little Jessie some permanent home; for all our
movements were so uncertain--I myself, thinking of a return to the old
country--that it was considered advisable to obtain for her some better
friends than a set of volatile, though good-hearted young fellows--not
the most suitable protection for a young girl, even in so lax a place
as the colonies. We never thought of letting her return to England, for
there the life of a female, who has her own livelihood to earn, is one
of badly-paid labour, entailing constant privation, and often great
misery--if not worse. I have before said that William had relatives in
Melbourne, and to them we determined to entrust her. Mrs. R----- was a
kind-hearted and most exemplary woman; and having a very young family
of her own, was well pleased at such an acquisition as the thoughtful,
industrious little Jessie. Each of our party contributed a
small portion of their golden earnings to form a fund for a future day,
which I doubt not will be increased by our little friend's industry,
long before she needs it. Here let us leave her, trusting that her
future life may be as happy as her many excellent qualities deserve,
and hoping that her severest trials have already passed over her.
Our next care was to obtain our gold from the Escort-office; to do
which the receipts given in Bendigo had to be handed in, and after very
little delay the precious packets were restored to their respective
owners. The following is a facsimile of the tickets, printed on
parchment, attached to each parcel of which a duplicate, printed on
common paper, is given to the depositor:
BENDIGO CREEK.
No. 2772.
Date, 8th of October, 1852.
Name, Mr. A----.
Quantity, 60 oz. 10 dwts.
Consigned to, Self.
The trifling charge for all this trouble and responsibility is sixpence
an ounce.
The business satisfactorily arranged, the next was to dispose of it.
Some was converted into money, and sold for 69s. an ounce; and the
remainder was consigned to England, where, being very pure and above
standard, it realized 4 pounds an ounce. A great difference that!
We next paid Richard a visit, who, though surprised was well pleased to
see us again. He declared his resolution of returning to England as
soon as possible. Our party fixed their journey to the Ovens to take
place in three weeks. William determined to remain in town, which I
think showed wisdom on his part as his health was not equal to roughing
it in the bush; and this was a much more formidable trip than the last,
on account of length, and being much less frequented.
Meanwhile we enjoyed the fine weather, and our present companionship,
as much as possible, while taking little trips here, there, and
everywhere. The one I most enjoyed was a sail in the Bay. The
captain of the vessel in which we left England, was still detained in
Port Philip for want of hands--the case of hundreds--and offered to give
us a sail, and a dinner on board afterwards. We soon made up a large
party, and enjoyed it exceedingly. The day was lovely. We walked down
to Liardet's Beach, a distance of nearly three miles, and were soon
calmly skimming over the waters. We passed St. Kilda and Brighton, and
gained an excellent view of the innumerable vessels then lying useless
and half-deserted in the Bay.
It was a sad though a pretty sight. There were fine East Indiamen,
emigrant ships, American clippers, steamers, traders--foreign and
English--whalers, &c., waiting there only through want of seamen.
In the cool of the evening our gallant host rowed us back to the beach.
Since our first landing, tents and stores had been erected in great
numbers, and Little Adelaide was grown wonderfully. I think I have
never mentioned the quantity of frogs that abound in Australia.
This particular evening I remarked them more than usual, and without
the least exaggeration their croaking resembled a number of mills in
motion. I know nothing to which I can more appropriately liken the
noise that resounded along the swampy portions of the road, from the
beach to Melbourne.
Much has been said of the climate of Australia, and many are the
conflicting statements thereon. The following table contains all the
information--personal and otherwise--which I have been enabled to
collect.
JANUARY AND FEBRUARY.--Generally the hottest months; average of the
thermometer, 78 in the shade; thunder-storms and COLONIAL showers of
rain occasionally visit us.
MARCH.--Fine genial weather; average temperature, 73 in the shade.
APRIL.--Weather more uncertain; mosquitos depart; average temperature,
70 in the shade:
MAY.--Fine, till towards the latter part of the month, when sometimes
the rainy season commences; average temperature in the shade, 64.
JUNE.--Rainy, and much cooler; temperature at an average of 58 in the
shade.
JULY.--Coldest month in the year; midwinter in the colonies; average
temperature, 53. Ice and snow may be seen inland.
AUGUST.--Very rainy. Average temperature, 58 in the shade.
SEPTEMBER.--Windy stormy month; weather getting warmer. Average
temperature, 63 in the shade.
OCTOBER--The presence of the mosquito, a sure proof that the weather is
permanently warm. Average temperature in the shade, 66.
NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER.--Tropically warm. Locusts, mosquitos, and
unnumbered creeping things swarm both in bush and town. Towards the end
of December the creeks commence to dry up, and the earth looks parched
for want of rain. No yule-log needed on Christmas Day. Thermometer as
high as 97 in the shade; average 75.
The principal trees in Australia are the gum, stringy bark, manna tree,
wild cherry (so called), iron bark, shea oak, peppermint,
acacia, and the mimosa, which last, however, should more properly be
called a shrub. These and others, like the Indian malelucas, are
remarkable for the Cajeput oil contained in their leaves, and in the
gums which exude from their sterns, and in this point of view alone,
considering their boundless number, their value can hardly be over
estimated. The gum of some of the acacias will bear comparison with
gum-arabic. Their bark and timber are likewise useful, and when the
gold fever has subsided, will become valuable as exports.
Wild flowers there are in abundance, and some exquisite specimens of
ferns. For the benefit of those better skilled in botany than myself, I
give the following list of Dr. Muller's indigenous plants of Victoria.
Correaochrolenca and Phebalium Asteriscophorum, both with the medical
properties of the Bucco-bush, Eurybia Rhodochaeta, E. Rugosa, E.
Adenophylla, E. Asterotristia, Sambucus, Gaudichaudiana, Prostanthera
Hirsuta, Pimelea axiflora (powerful Surrogat of the Mezerion
shrub), Bossidea decumbcus, Asterotristia asperifolia, Patersonia
aspera, Grevilliea repens, Dallachiana, &c.
The geranium, fuschia, rhododendrum, and almost all varieties of the
Cacti have been taken to the colonies, and flourish well in the open
air all the year round, growing much more luxuriantly than in England.
The vineyards must some day form a considerable source of employment
and profit to the colonists. The wine made in Australia is very good.
The vines are cultivated in the same manner as in France. In the
neighbourhood of Sydney, oranges and peaches are grown out in the open
air. Apples and other fruits flourish well in Van Diemen's Land. All
these fruits are not indigenous to Australia. The only articles of food
natural there, are the kangaroos, emus, opossums, and other denizens of
the forest, a few snakes, some roots, and a worm, about the length and
thickness of a finger, which is abundant in all parts of the colony,
and is taken out of the cavities, or from under the bark, of the trees.
It is a great favourite with the blacks, as it can be procured
when no other food is attainable.
I have before made mention of the bush and scrub; there is a great
dissimilarity between the two. The former resembles a forest, with none
or very little underwood. The scrub, on the contrary, is always
underwood, of from six to twenty feet high, and only here and there a
few trees are seen. To be lost in either bush or scrub is a common
thing. If on horseback the best way is to give the rein to your
four-footed companion, and instinct will most probably enable him to
extricate you. If on foot, ascend, if possible, a rise of ground, and
notice any FALL in the country; here, most likely, is a creek, and once
beside that, you are pretty sure of coming to a station. If this fails,
you must just bush it for the night, and resume your search next
morning, trusting to an occasional "coo-ey" to help you out of your
difficulty.
The scenery of Australia partakes of all characters. Sometimes miles of
swamp reminds one of the Lincolnshire fens; at other times it assumes
quite a park-like appearance, though the effect is greatly
injured by the want of freshness about the foliage, which always looks
of a dirty, dingy green. The native trees in Australia never shed their
leaves, never have that exquisite young tint which makes an English
spring in the country so delicious. Their faded look always reminded me
of those unfortunate trees imprisoned for so many months beneath the
Crystal Palace.
The mountains in Australia are high and bold in outline, and the
snow-capped Alps on the boundaries of New South Wales are not unlike
their European namesakes, the highest tops are from six to seven
thousand feet above the level of the sea. The country round Ballarat is
more in the North American style, and when the creek is full, it is a
fine sight, greatly resembling, I have beard, one of the smaller rivers
in Canada; in fact, the scenery round Ballarat is said to approach more
to Upper Canada than any in the colony. The rocks, although not high,
are in places very bold and romantic, and in the wet season there are
several water-falls in the neighbourhood.
Eels are very plentiful in Victoria, and are peculiar to this district,
being seldom, if ever, found in any other part of the known continent.
Old writers on Australia have stated that eels are unknown in this part
of the world, which, since this colony has been settled in, has been
found to be erroneous, as the Barwin, the Yarra Yarra, and their
tributaries abound with them, some weighing five or six pounds. A few
days after our return from the diggings, we breakfasted off a dish of
stewed eels, caught by a friend; the smallest weighed about a pound and
a half, the largest about three pounds. They were caught three miles
from Melbourne, in the Salt Water Creek.
A small kind of fish like the lamprey, another similar to the gudgeon,
and also one (of rather a larger kind--the size of the roach) called
here "white herrings," but not at all resembling that fish, are found.
Pike are also very numerous. Crabs and lobsters are not known here, but
in the salt creeks near the sea we have craw-fish.
Of course, parrots, cockatoos and "sich-like," abound in the
bush, to the horror of the small gardeners and cultivators, as what
they do not eat they ruin by destroying the young shoots.
Kangaroos are extremely numerous in the scrub. They are the size of a
large greyhound, and of a mouse colour. The natives call them
"kanguru." The tail is of great strength. There are several varieties
of them. The largest is the Great Kangaroo, of a greyish-brown colour,
generally four or five feet high and the tail three. Some kangaroos are
nearly white, others resemble the hare in colour. Pugs, or young
kangaroos, are plentiful about the marshy grounds; so are also the
opossum and kangaroo rat. The latter is not a rat, properly speaking,
but approaches the squirrel tribe. It is a lilliputian kangaroo, the
size of our native wood squirrel and larger, only grey or reddish-grey.
It can leap six or eight feet easily, and is excellent eating. The
native dog is of all colours; it has the head and brush of a fox, with
the body a legs of a dog. It is a cowardly animal, and will run away
from you like mad. It is a great enemy of the kangaroo rat, and
a torment to the squatter, for a native dog has a great PENCHANT for
mutton and will kill thirty or forty sheep in the course of an hour.
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