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Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark

M >> Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark

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[Clark, July 14, 1804]
July 14th, Satturday 1804
Some hard Showers of rain this morning prevented our Setting out untill
7 oClock, at half past Seven, the atmispr. became Sudenly darkened by a
black and dismal looking Cloud, at the time we were in a Situation (not
to be bettered) near the upper point of the Sand Island, on which we
lay, and the opposit Shore, the bank was falling in and lined with
Snags as far as we could See down,-. in this Situation The Storm which
passd over an open Plain from the N. E. Struck the our boat on the
Starbd. quarter, and would have thrown her up on the Sand Island dashed
to peces in an Instant, had not the party leeped out on the Leward Side
and kept her off with the assistance of the ancker & Cable, untill the
Storm was over, the waves Dashed over her windward Side and She must
have filled with water if the Lockers which is covered with Tarpoling &
Threw of the water & prevented any quantity Getting into Bilge of the
Boat

In this Situation we continued about 40 Minits. when the Storm Sudenly
Seased and the river become Instancetaniously as Smoth as Glass.

The two perogus dureing this Storm was in a Similar Situation with the
boat about half a mile above- The wind Shifted to the S. E & We Saled
up passed a Small (1) Isld. Situated on the S. S. and Dined & Continud
two hours, men examine their arms- about a Mile above this Island,
passed a Small Tradeing fort on the S. S. where, Mr. Bennet of St.
Louis Traded with the Otteaus & Panies two years. I went on Shore to
Shoot Some Elk on a Sand bar to the L. S. I fired at one but did not
get him, went out into a large extensive bottom the greater part of
which overflows, the part that dose not overflow, is rich and well
timbered, Some Small open Praries near the hills, the Boat passed the
lower part of a large Island Situated on the S. S. above the Lower
point of this Island on the S. S. a (2) large Creek corns into the
river Called by the Maha's Indians Neesh-nah-ba-to-na 50 yds this is a
considerable Creek nearly as large as the Mine River, and runs parrelel
with the Missouri, the Greater part of its Course. In those Small
Praries or glades I saw wild Timothey, lambs-quarter, Cuckle burs; &
rich weed. on the edges Grows Sumr. Grapes, Plum's, & Gooseberries. I
Joined the boat which had Came to and Camped in a bend opposd. the
large Island before mentioned on the L. S. Several men unwell with
Boils, Felns, &c. The river falls a little.

[Clark, July 15, 1804]
July 15th Sunday 1804. a heavy fog this morning which Detained us
untill 7 oClock, put Drewyer Sgt. Floyd on Shore, at 9 I took two Men
and went on Shore, with a view to Kill Some elk, passed thro open
plains, and barroney lands Crossed three butifull Small Streams of
water, Saw great quantity of Cherres Plums, Grapes & Berries of Difft.
Kinds, the lands Generally of a good quallity, on the Streams the wood
escapes the fire, at about 7 miles I Struck the river at the mouth Ne
ma har Creek about 40 yds wide, near this Creek on a high part of the
Prarie I had a extensive View of the river & Countrey on both Sides. on
S. a contnuation of the plain as far as I could See, on the N. a bottom
Prarie of about 5 ms. wide & 18 or 20 long, hills back of this Plain. I
Swam across the Creek and waited for the Boat about three miles above,
we camped opsd. an Island.

[Clark, July 15, 1804]
July 15th, Sunday a heavy Fog this morning prevented our Setting out
before 7 oClock, at nine I took two men and walked on the L. S. I
crossed three butifull Streems of runnig water heading in the Praries
on those Streem the lands verry fine covered with pea Vine & rich weed
the high Praries are also good land Covered with Grass entirely void of
timber except what grows on the water, I proceeded on thro those
praries Several miles to the mouth of a large Creek on the L. S. called
(2) Ne ma har this is a Small river, about 100 yds. above the mouth it
is 40 yards wide, at the mouth (as all other Creeks & rivers falling
into the Missourie are) much narrower than a little distance up. after
continueing at the mouth of this Creek about an hour, I Swam across and
proceeded on about 3 miles and halted to wate for the boat, which was
Some distance below- In all this days march thro woods & Praries, I
only Saw three Deer & 3 fawns- I had at one part of the Prarie a verry
extensive view of all the Countrey around up and down the river a
Considerable distance, on the Larbd. Sd. one Continul Plain, on the S.
S. Some timber on the bank of the river, for a Short distance back of
this timber is a bottom Plain of four or five miles back to the hills
and under the hills between them & the river this plain appeared to
extend 20 or 30 miles, those Hills have but little timber, and the
Plain appears to Continu back of them- I Saw Great quantities of
Grapes, Plums, or 2 Kinds wild Cherries of 2 Kinds, Hazelnuts, and
Goosberries.

we Camped in a point of woods on the Larboard S. opsd. a large Island.


[Lewis, July 15, 1804]
Sunday July 15th
This evening I discovered that my Chronometer had stoped, nor can I
assign any cause for this accedent; she had been wound up the preceding
noon as usual. This is the third instance in which this instrument has
stopt in a similar manner since she nas been in my possession, tho the
first only since our departure from the River Dubois. in the two
preceding cases when she was again set in motion, and her rate of going
determined by a series of equal altitudes of the sun taken for that
purpose, it was found to be the same precisely as that mentioned in the
preliminary remarks to these observations, or 15 s & 5 tenths too slow
in 24 h-as her rate of going after stoping, and begin again set in
motion has in two instances proved to be the same, I have concluded,
that whatever this impediment may procede from, it is not caused by any
material injury which her works have sustained, and that when she is in
motion, her error on mean time above stated, may be depended on as
accurate. In consequence of the chronometer's having thus accedentally
stoped, I determined to come too at the first convenient place and make
such observations as were necessary to ascertain her error, establish
the Latitude & Longitude, and determine the variation of the nedle, in
order to fix a second point of departure.

[Clark, July 16, 1804]
July 16 1804 Monday
Set out verry early and proceeded on the Side of a Prarie passd the
head of the Island opsd. which we Camped last night, (1) passed a Small
willow Island off the L. point, hills make near the river (2) passed a
large Island nearest the L. S. below the pt. a Small willow Isd. also
one on the Side. this large Island is called fair Sun the wind
favourable from the South. Boat run on a Sawyer, (4) pass a place on
the L. S. where the hill abt. 20 acres has Sliped into the river lately
just above passed under a clift of Sand Stone L. S. a number of Burds
Nests in the holes & crevises of this rock which Continus 2 miles, (5)
passed a willow Island in a Deep bend to the S. S. river 2 mile wide at
this place, note Deed Snags across, passed the Lower point of a Island
called Isle Chauvin Situated on the L. Point opposit an extensive
Prarie on the S. S., This prarie I call Ball pated Prarie from the
range ball hills, at from 3 to 6 miles from the river as far as my
Sight will extend, we camped in a point of woods opsd. the Isd. on S.
S. in a bend.

[Clark, July 16, 1804]
July 16th Monday 1804
Set out this morning verry early and proceeded on under a gentle breeze
from the S passed the upper point of the Island an extensive Prarie on
the L. S. passed a large (1) Island Called Fair Sun Isd. a Small willow
Isld. at the lower point on the L. S. the boat passd on the L. S. of
those Islands Several Small Sand Islands in the Channel, the Boat run
on the point of a Snag, (2) passed a place above the Island L. S. where
about 20 acres of the hill has latterly Sliped into the river above a
clift of Sand Stone for about two miles, the resort of burds of
Different Kinds to reare their young. (5) Passed a willow Island in a
Deep Bend to the S. S. opposit the river is about two miles wide, and
not verry Deep as the Snag may be Seen across, Scattering, passed the
Lower point of an Island called by French Chauvin's Situated off the L.
Point opposit an extensive Prarie on the S. S. This Prarie I call Ball
gated Prarie, from a range of Ball Hills parrelel to the river & at
from 3 to 6 miles distant from it, and extends as far up & Down as I
Can See, we Camped in a point of woods on the L. S. above the Lower
point of the Island. river falling.

[Lewis, July 16, 1804]
Monday 16th we set out at an early hour; the morning was cloudy; could
find no convenient situation for observation; proceeded untill a little
before noon when we came too On the Lard. Shore opposite to the center
of good Island where I observed the meridian altitude of O's L. L. with
Octant by the back observation, wich gave me the Latitude- 40° 20' 12" N.

I now set the Chronometer as near noon as this observation would enable
me, and proceeded untill evening, when we came too on the Stard. shore
opposite the lower point of the Island of the Bald prarie where we
encamped.

[Clark, July 17, 1804]
July 17th Tuesday, we concluded to lay by today to fix the Longitude,
and get the Cronometer right, (She run down Day before yesterday),
Several men out hunting to day Capt. Lewis rode out to Neesh-nahba-to
na Creek which passes thro. the Prarie (on which there is Some few
trees) within ____ Mile of the Missoureis, wind from the S E. Several
of the party have tumers of different Kinds Some of which is verry
troublesom and dificuilty to cure. I took a meridian altitude (43° 27')
which made the Lattitude of this place 40° 27' 6" 4/10 North.- (The Ball
Hills bear N 25° W for 30 mes. The bend on L. S. passing the Isd. on the
right Side is N. 28° W. 4 ms.) Took equal altitudes Tried a part of the
comn pt. of the Current in 40 Seconds the water run 50 fathem 30" & 20"
in places

Cap Lewers returned, Saw Some hand Som Countrey, the Creek near the
high land is rapid and nearly as muddy as the river, & rising Gutrich
caught two verry fat Cat fish G Drewyer Killed 3 Deer, & R Fields one,
a puff of wind brought Swarms of Misquitors, which disapeared in two
hours, blown off by a Continuation of the Same brees.

[Clark, July 17, 1804]
Bald Pated Prarie July 17th, Tuesday 1804 We Concluded lay by at this
place to day to fix the Lattitude & Longitude of this place to Correct
the cromometer run down Sunday) Several men out by day light hunting
Capt. Lewis Concid. to ride out to Neesh-nah-ba-to-na Creek which
passes under the ball hills near this place and at one place a little
above this Camp is within 300 yards of the Missouris on this Creek
grows Some few trees of oake walnut & mulberry. I took Meridian
altitude of sun L. L. (43° 27') which made the Lattitude 40° 27' 5" 4/10
North- wind from the South E. Several of the party much aflicted with
turners of different Kinds, Som of which is verry troublesom and
dificuelt to cure. Capt. Louis returned in the evening. he Saw Som hand
Some Countrey & Says that the aforesaid Creek is rapid muddey and
running- This Creek which is at 10 or 12 from its mouth, within 300 yds
of the river is at least 16 foot Lower than the river- The high Lands
from our Camp in this Bald Pated Prarie bears N 25° W. up the R.

The Common Current taken with a Log runs 50 fathen in 40"Some places
much Swifter in 30" and even 20 Seconds of time- five Deer killed to day

[Clark, July 18, 1804]
July 18th Wednesday a fair morning the river falling fast, Set out at
Sunrise under a gentle Breeze from S. E by S. at 3 miles passed the
head of the Island on L. S. called by the French Chauve or bald pate
(1) opsd. the middle of this Island the Creek on L. S. is within 300
yds. of the river. back of this Island the lower point of (2) another
Island in the bend to the L. S. passed large Sand bar making out from
each point with many channels passing through them, "Current runs 50
fathm. in 41 Seconds" but little timber on either Side of the river,
except the Isds. & points which are low wet & Covered with lofty trees,
Cotton wood Mulberry Elm &c. &c. passed the head of a long Island in
high water at this time no water passes thro the Channel (3) opposit
the Lower point of a Island on the L. S. pass the Island and opsd. the
point (4) above & on the L. S. the hills come to the river, This Hill
has Sliped into the river for about 3/4 of a mile, and leaves a Bluff
of considerable hight back of it this Hill is about 200 foot high
compsd. of Sand Stone inter mingled with Iron ore of an inferior
quallity on a bed of Soft Slate Stone.

We passed a verry bad Sand bar (4) a little above the hill and incmpd
on the L. S. opposit a Small Island in the river, Saw a Dog this
evening appeared to be nearly Starved to death, he must have been left
by Some party of Hunters we gave him Some meet, he would not come near,
G Drewrer brought in 2 Deer this evening

[Clark, July 18, 1804]
July 18th Wednesday 1804 a fair morning the river falling fast Set out
this morning at Sun rise under a Gentle Breeze from the S. E. by S.
passing over the Prarie, at about 3 Miles we passed the head of the
Island L. S. Called by the French Chaube or Bald pate opposit the
middle of (1) This Island the Creek on the S. S. is nearest the river,
In high water an Island is formed in the bind above the last (2)-
Measured the Current and found that in forty one Seconds it run yo
fathoms but little timber is to be Seen except in the Low points on
Islands & on Creeks, the Groth of timber is generally cotton Mulberry
Elm Sycomore &c &c. passed a Island on the 2d point to the S. S.
opposite the water (3) whin high passes out in the Plain oppsid this
Island on the L. S. the hills jut to the river (4) this Hill has Sliped
from the top which forms a Bluff above & 200 foot above the water,
about 3/4 of a mile in length & about 200 feet in Depth has Sliped into
the river it is Composed of Sand Stone intermixed with an indiffert.
Iron ore near the bottom or next to the water is a Soft Slate Stone,
Som pebble is also intermixt, we passed a verry bad Sand bar and
incamped on the L. S. at the lower point of the oven Islands & opposit
the Prarie Calld. by the french Four le Tourtue Saw a Dog nearly
Starved on the bank, gave him Som meet, he would not follow, our
hunters killed 2 Deer to day

[Clark, July 19, 1804]
July 19th after breakfast which was on a rosted Ribs of a Deer a little
and a little Coffee I walked on Shore intending only to Keep up with
the Boat, Soon after I got on Shore, Saw Some fresh elk Sign, which I
was induced to prosue those animals by their track to the hills after
assending and passing thro a narrow Strip of wood Land, Came Suddenly
into an open and bound less Prarie, I Say bound less because I could
not See the extent of the plain in any Derection, the timber appeared
to be confined to the River Creeks & Small branches, this Prarie was
Covered with grass about 18 Inches or 2 feat high and contained little
of any thing else, except as before mentioned on the River Creeks &c,
This prospect was So Sudden & entertaining that I forgot the object of
my prosute and turned my attention to the Variety which presented
themselves to my view after continueing on this rise for Some minits, I
deturmined to make my course to a line of woods to S. E. I found in
this wood a butifull Streem of running water, in prosuing it down
Several others Joined it and at 3 miles fell into the river between 2
clifts, I went up & under one clift of dark rich Clay for 1/2 me. above
this a Clay bank which had Sliped in here I found Sand Stone Containing
Iron ore, this ore appears to be inbeded under the Clay just above the
water

[Clark, July 19, 1804]
July 19th Thursday 1804
Set out early pass between 2 Islands one in mid. & the other L. S.
opsd. wher Prarie aproaches the river S. S. This place is called the
Bakers oven or in french Four le Tour tere passd. Some highlands 41/2
ms. above the Isds. on the L. S. forming a Clift to the river of yellow
earth, on the top a Prarie, passd. many a bad Sand bar in this
distance, & the river wide & Shallow, above this Clift 2 Small
butiffull runs Come from the Plains & fall into the river, a Deer lick
on the first, above those two Creeks, I found in my walk on Shore Some
ore in a bank which had Sliped in to the river 3/4 me. above the
Creeks, I took a cerequite around & found that those two runs mentioned
contained a good proposion of wood Surrounded by a plain, with grass
about 18 Inchs. high, (Capt Lewis walked on Shore after Dinner) in the
first bind to the right above those Runs passed a Small Island opsd. is
a Sand bar I call this Island Butter Island, as at this place we mad
use of the last of our butter, as we approach this Great River Platt
the Sand bars are much more noumerous than they were, and the quick &
roleing Sands much more danjerous, where the Praries aproach the river
it is verry wide, the banks of those Plains being much easier to
undermine and fall than the wood land passed (4) a willow Island
Situated near the middle of the river, a Sand bar on the S. S. and a
Deep bend to the L S. camped on the right Side of the Willow Island-W.
Bratten hunting on the L. S Swam to the Island. Hunters Drewyer killed
2 Deer, Saw great numbers of young gees. The river Still falling a
little Sand bars thick always in view.

[Clark, July 19, 1804]
July 19th, Thursday 1804
Set out early passed between two Small Islands, one in the middle of
the river, the other Close on the L S. opposit a prarie S. S. Called
(1) by the french Four le tourtre, The Bakers oven Islands, passed (2)
Some high Clift 41/2 miles above the Islands on the L. S. of yellow
earth passed Several Sand bars that were wide and at one place verry
Shallow (two Small butifull runs falls into the river near each other
at this Clift, a Deer Lick 200 yards up the Lowest of those runs) Those
runs head at no great distance in the plains and pass thro of timber to
the river. In my walk on Shore I found Some ore in the bank above those
runs which I take to be Iron ore (3) at this place the Side of the hill
has Sliped about half way into the river for 3/4 of a Mile forming a
Clift from the top of the hill above. In the first bend to the right
passed a Small Island a Sand bar opposit,- worthey of remark as we
approach this great River Plate the Sand bars much more numerous and
the quick or moveing Sands much worst than they were below at the
places where Praries approach the river it is verry wide those places
being much easier to wash & under Mine than the wood Land's. (4) passed
a Willow Isd. Situated near the Middle of the river and a large Sand
makeing out from the S. S. a Deep bend to the L S. we Camped at the
head of this Island on the Starboard Side of it, Hunters Killed Two
Deer. Saw great numbers of young Gees River falling a little.

[Clark, July 20, 1804]
July 20th Friday 1804, a fog this morning and verry Cool George Drewyer
Sick proceed on over a Sand bar, Bratten Swam the river to get his gun
& Clothes left last night psd a large willow Isd. on the L. S. (1)
passed the mouth of l'Eau que pleure the English of which is the water
which Cry's this Creek is about 20 yards wide falls into the river
above a Gift of brown Clay L. S. opposit a willow Island, at this Creek
I went on Shore took R Fields with me and went up this Creek Several
miles & crossed thro the plains to the river above with the view of
finding Elk, we walked all day through those praries without Seeing
any, I killed an emence large yellow Wolf-The Countrey throu which we
walked after leaveing the Creek was good land covered with Grass
interspersed with Groves & Scattering timber near and about the heads
of Branches one of them without Suckcess, Camped above the bar on the
L. S. a verry agreeable Breeze all night Serjt. Pryor & Jo. Fields
brought in two Deer river Still falling. a large Spring 3/4 me. below
camp

[Clark, July 20, 1804]
July 20th, Friday 1804
a cool morning passed a large willow Island (1) on the S. S. and the
mouth of Creek about 25 yds. wide on the L. S. Called by the french
l'Eue-que pleure, or the the Water Which Cry's this Creek falls into
the river above a Clift of brown Clay opposit the Willow Island, I went
out above the mouth of this Creek and walked the greater part of the
day thro Plains interspesed with Small Groves of Timber on the branches
and Some Scattering trees about the heads of the runs, I Killed a Verry
large yellow wolf, The Soil of Those Praries appears rich but much
Parched with the frequent fires-" after I returned to the Boat we
proceeded around a large Sand bar makeing out from the L. S. opsd. a
fountain of water comeing out of a hill L. S. and affording water
Suffient to turn a mill

The Praries as far as I was out appeared to be well watered, with Small
Streems of running water Serjt. Pryor & Jo. Fields brought in two Deer
this evening- a verry Pleasent Breeze from the N. W. all night- river
falling a little, It is wothey of observation to mention that our party
has been much healthier on the Voyage than parties of the Same Number
is in any other Situation Turners have been troublesom to them all

From this evenings incampment a man may walk to the Pane Village on the
S bank of the Platt River in two days, and to the Otteaus in one day
all those Indians are Situated on the South bank of the Plate River, as
those Indians are now out in the praries following & Hunting the
buffalow, I fear we will not See them.

[Lewis, July 21, 1804]
July 21, 1804
by a boiling motion or ebolition of it's waters occasioned no doubt by
the roling and irregular motion of the sand of which its bed is
entirely composed. the particles of this sand being remarkably small
and light it is easily boied up and is hurried by this impetuous
torrent in large masses from place to place in with irristable forse,
collecting and forming sandbars in the course of a few hours which as
suddingly disapated to form others and give place perhaps to the
deepest channel of the river. where it enters the Missouri it's
superior force changes and directs the courant of that river against
it's northern bank where it is compressed within a channel less than
one third of the width it had just before occupyed. it dose not furnish
the missouri with it's colouring matter as has been asserted by some,
but it throws into it immence quantities of sand and gives a celerity
to it's courant of which it abates but little untill it's junction with
the Mississippy. the water of this river is turbid at all seasons of
the year but is by no means as much so as that of the Missourie. The
sediment it deposits, consists of very fine particles of white sand
while that of the Missoury is composed principally of a dark rich
loam-in much greater quantity

21st July from the experiments and observations we were enabled to make
with rispect to the comparative velocities of the courants of the
rivers Mississippi Missouri and Plat it results that a vessel will
float in the Mississippi below the entrance of the Missouri at the rate
of four miles an hour. in the Missouri from it's junction with the
Mississsippi to the entrance of the Osage river from 51/2 to 6 from
thence to the mouth of the Kanzas from 61/2 to 7. from thence to the
Platte 51/2 while the Plat is at least 8.- The Missouri above the
junction of the river plat is equal to about 31/2 miles an hour as far
as the mouth of the Chyenne where its courant still abates and becomes
equal to about three miles an hour from information it dose not
increase it's volocity for

[Clark, July 21, 1804]
July 21st Satturday, Set out verry early and a Gentle Breeze from the
S. E proceeded on very well, passed a (1) Willow Island L. S. opsd. a
bad Sand bar passed Some high land covered with Timber, in this Hill is
Semented rock & Limestone the water runs out and forms Several little
Islands in (2) high water on the S. S. a large Sand bar on the S. S.
above and opposit the wooded High Land, at about 7 oClock the wind
Seased and it Commenced raining passed many Sand bars opposit or in the
Mouth of the Great River Plate this river which is much more rapid than
the Missourie has thrown out imence quantities of Sand forming large
Sand Banks at its mouth and forced the Missourie Close under the S. S.
the Sands of this river Comes roleing down with the Current which is
Crowded with Sand bars and not 5 feet water at any place across its
mouth, the Rapidity of the Current of this river which is greater than
that of the Missourie, its width at the Mouth across the bars is about
3/4 of a mile, higher up I am told by one of the bowmen that he was 2
winters on this river above and that it does not rise 7 feet, but
Spreds over 3 miles at Some places, Capt Lewis & my Self went up Some
Distance & Crossed found it Shallow. This river does not rise over 6 or
7 feet

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