Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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[Clark, October 31, 1805]
October 31st Thursday 1805
a cloudey raney morning I proceed down the river to view it more at
leasure, I took Jos. Fields & Peter Crusat and proceeded on down, Send
Crusat back at 2 ms. to examine the rapid near the shore & I proceeded
on down about 10 miles to a very high rock in a bottom on the Stard.
opsd. 2 Islands covered with timber on which I saw Inds. at a distance;
found the river rocky for 6 miles, after which the Current became
uniform- at 1 mile I passed an old deserted village on a Pond on a high
Situation of 8 Houses- at 31/2 miles one house the only remt. of an
antient Village 1/2 a mile lower I saw 8 Vaults for the Dead which was
nearly Square 8 feet Closely Covered with broad boads Curiously
engraved, the bones in Some of those vaults wer 4 feet thick, in others
the Dead was yet layed Side of each other nearly East & west, raped up
& bound Securley in robes, great numbers of trinkets Brass Kittle, Sea
Shells, Iron, Pan Hare &c. &c. was hung about the vaults and great many
wooden gods, or Images of men Cut in wood, Set up round the vaults,
Some of those So old and worn by time that they were nearly worn out of
Shape, and Some of those vaults So old that they were roted entirely to
the ground- notwithstanding they wood is of Pine & _____ or Seder as
also the wooden gods
I can not learn certainly if those people worship those woden emiges,
they have them in conspicuous parts of their houses at 5 miles I passed
4 large houses on the Stard Side a little above the last rapid and
opposit a large Island which is Situated near the Lard. Side- The
enhabitents of those houses had left them closely Shut up, they
appeared to Contn. a great deel of property and Provisions Such as
those people use, I did not disturb any thing about those houses, but
proceed on down below the rapid which I found to be the last, a large
village has at Some period been on the Stard. Side below this rapid The
bottom is high Stoney and about 2 miles wide covered with grass, here C
is the head of a large Island in high water, at this time no water
passes on the Stard. Side I walked thro this Island which I found to be
verry rich, open & covered with Strawberry vines, and has greatly the
appearance of having at Some period been Cultivated, The natives has
dug roots in Some parts of this Isld. which is about 3 miles long & 1
Wide, a Small Island covered with timber opposit the lower point no
water runs on the Stard. Side. of it. below and in the middle of the
river is a large Island Covered with tall trees opposit the Strawberry
Island on its Stard. Side a creek falls in which has no running water
at present, it has the appearanc of throwing out emense torents- I saw
5 Indians in a canoe below- Jo. killed a Sand hill Crane & we returned
by the same rout to camp at the grand Shute where I found Several
Indians, I Smoked. Two canoes loaded with fish for the Trade below Came
down & unloaded the after noon fare
Those Indians Cut off the hands of those they kill & proserve the
fingers.
[Clark, October 31, 1805]
October 31st Thursday 1805
A Cloudy rainey disagreeable morning I proceeded down the river to view
with more attention we had to pass on the river below, the two men with
me Jo. Fields & Peter Crusat proceeded down to examine the rapids the
Great Shute which commenced at the Island on which we encamped Continud
with great rapidity and force thro a narrow chanel much compressd. and
interspersed with large rocks for 1/2 a mile, at a mile lower is a
verry Considerable rapid at which place the waves are remarkably high,
and proceeded on in a old Indian parth 21/2 miles by land thro a thick
wood & hill Side, to the river where the Indians make a portage, from
this place I dispatched Peter Crusat (our principal waterman) back to
follow the river and examine the practibility of the Canoes passing, as
the rapids appeared to continue down below as far as I could See, I
with Jo. Fields proceeded on, at 1/2 a mile below the end of the
portage passed a house where there had been an old town for ages past
as this house was old Decayed and a plat of flees I did not enter it,
about 1/2 a mile below this house in a verry thick part of the woods is
8 vaults which appeared Closely Covered and highly deckerated with
orniments. Those vaults are all nearly the Same Sise and form 8 feet
Square, 5 feet high, Sloped a little So as to convey off the rain made
of Pine or Cedar boards Closely Connected & Scurely Covered with wide
boards, with a Dore left in The East Side which is partially Stoped
with wide boards curiously engraved. In Several of those vaults the
dead bodies wre raped up verry Securely in Skins tied around with cords
of grass & bark, laid on a mat, all east & west and Some of those
vaults had as maney as 4 bodies laying on the Side of each other. the
other Vaults Containing bones only, Some contained bones for the debth
of 4 feet. on the tops and on poles attached to those vaults hung Brass
kitties & frying pans pearced thro their bottoms, baskets, bowls of
wood, Sea Shels, Skins, bits of Cloth, Hair, bags of Trinkets & Small
peices of bone &c and independant of the curious ingraveing and
Paintings on the boards which formed the vaults I observed Several
wooden Images, cut in the figure of men and Set up on the Sides of the
vaults all round. Some of those So old and worn by time, that they were
nearly out of Shape, I also observed the remains of Vaults rotted
entirely into the ground and covered with moss. This must bee the
burrying place for maney ages for the inhabitants of those rapids, the
vaults are of the most lasting timber Pine & Cedar- I cannot Say
certainly that those nativs worship those wooden idols as I have every
reason to believe they do not; as they are Set up in the most
conspicious parts of their houses, and treated more like orniments than
objects of aderation. at 2 miles lower & 5 below our Camp I passed a
village of 4 large houses abandend by the nativs, with their Bores
bared up, I looked into those houses and observed as much property as
is usial in the houses of those people which induced me to conclude
that they wre at no great distance, either hunting or Colecting roots,
to add to their winter Subsistance. from a Short distance below the
vaults the mountain which is but low on the Stard. Side leave the
river, and a leavel Stoney open bottom Suckceeds on the Said Std. Side
for a great Distance down, the mountains high and rugid on the Lard
Side this open bottom is about 2 miles a Short distance below this
village is a bad Stoney rapid and appears to be the last in view I
observed at this lower rapid the remains of a large and antient Village
which I could plainly trace by the Sinks in which they had formed their
houses, as also those in which they had buried their fish- from this
rapid to the lower end of the portage the river is Crouded with rocks
of various Sizes between which the water passes with great velociety
createing in maney places large Waves, an Island which is Situated near
the Lard. Side occupies about half the distance the lower point of
which is at this rapid. immediately below this rapid the high water
passes through a narrow Chanel through the Stard. Bottom forming an
Island of 3 miles Long & one wide, I walked through this Island which I
found to be verry rich land, and had every appearance of haveing been
at Some distant period Cultivated. at this time it is Covered with
grass intersperced with Strawberry vines. I observed Several places on
this Island where the nativs had dug for roots and from its lower point
I observed 5 Indians in a Canoe below the upper point of an Island near
the middle of the river Covered with tall timber, which indued me to
believe that a village was at no great distanc below, I could not See
any rapids below in the extent of my view which was for a long distance
down the river, which from the last rapids widened and had everry
appearance of being effected by the tide,- I deturmind to return to
Camp 10 miles distant, a remarkable high detached rock Stands in a
bottom on the Stard Side near the lower point of this Island on the
Stard. Side about 800 feet high and 400 paces around, we call the
Beaten rock. a Brook falls into the narrow Chanel which forms the
Strawberry Island, which at this time has no running water, but has
every appearance of dischargeing emence torrents &c. &c. Jo. Fields
Shot a Sand hill Crane. I returned by the Same rout on an Indian parth
passing up on the N W. Side of the river to our Camp at the Great
Shute. found Several Indians from the village, I Smoked with them; Soon
after my return two Canoes loaded with fish & Bear grass for the trade
below, came down ,from the village at the mouth of the Catterack River,
they unloaded and turned their Canoes up Side down on the beech, &
camped under a Shelveing rock below our Camp
one of the men Shot a goose above this Great Shute, which was floating
into the Shute when an Indian observed it, plunged into the water &
Swam to the Goose and brought in on Shore, at the head of the Suck, as
this Indian richly earned the goose I Suffered him to keep it which he
about half picked and Spited it up with the guts in it to roste.
This Great Shute or falls is about 1/2 a mile with the water of this
great river Compressed within the Space of 150 paces in which there is
great numbers of both large and Small rocks, water passing with great
velocity forming & boiling in a most horriable manner, with a fall of
about 20 feet, below it widens to about 200 paces and current gentle
for a Short distance. a Short distance above is three Small rockey
Islands, and at the head of those falls, three Small rockey Islands are
Situated Crosswise the river, Several rocks above in the river & 4
large rocks in the head of the Shute; those obstructions together with
the high Stones which are continually brakeing loose from the mountain
on the Stard Side and roleing down into the Shute aded to those which
brake loose from those Islands above and lodge in the Shute, must be
the Cause of the rivers darning up to Such a distance above, where it
Shows Such evidant marks of the Common current of the river being much
lower than at the present day
[Clark, November 1, 1805]
November 1st Friday 1805
a verry cold morning wind from N. E and hard Set all hands packing the
loading over th portage which is below the Grand Shutes and is 940
yards of bad way over rocks & on Slipery hill Sides The Indians who
came down in 2 Canoes last night packed their fish over a portage of
21/2 miles to avoid a 2d Shute. four of them took their canoes over the
1st portage and run the 2d Shute, Great numbers of Sea otters, they are
So Cautious that I with deficuelty got a Shute at one to day, which I
must have killed but Could not get him as he Sunk
We got all our Canoes and baggage below the Great Shute 3 of the canoes
being Leakey from injures recved in hauling them over the rocks,
obliged us to delay to have them repaired a bad rapid just below us
three Indian canoes loaded with pounded fish for the &c. trade down the
river arrived at the upper end of the portage this evening. I Can't
lern whether those Indians trade with white people or Inds. below for
the Beeds & copper, which they are So fond of- They are nearly necked,
prefuring beeds to anything- Those Beeds they trafick with Indians
Still higher up this river for Skins robes &c. &c. The Indians on those
waters do not appear to be Sickly, Sore eyes are Common and maney have
lost their eyes, Some one and, maney both, they have bad teeth, and the
greater perpotion of them have worn their teeth down, maney into the
gums, They are rather Small high Cheeks, women Small and homely, maney
of them had Sweled legs, large about the knees,-owing to the position
in which they Set on their hams, They are nearly necked only a piece of
leather tied about their breech and a Small robe which generally comes
to a little below their wastes and Scercely Sufficely large to cover
arround them when confined- they are all fond of Clothes but more So of
Beeds perticularly blue & white beeds. They are durty in the extreme
both in their Coockery and in their houses.
Those at the last Village raise the beads about five feet from the
earth-under which they Store their Provisions- Their houses is about 33
feet to 50 feet Square, the Bore of which is about 30 Inc. high and 16
Inches wide in this form cut in a wide pine board they have maney
imeges Cut in wood, generally, in the figure of a man- Those people are
high with what they have to Sell, and Say the white people below Give
them great Prices for what they Sell to them. Their nose are all
Pierced, and the wear a white Shell maney of which are 2 Inch long
pushed thro the nose- all the women have flat heads pressed to almost a
point at top The press the female childrens heads between 2 bords when
young-untill they form the Skul as they wish it which is generally
verry flat. This amongst those people is considered as a great mark of
butyand is practised in all the tribes we have passed on this river
more or less. men take more of the drugery off the women than is common
with Indians
[Clark, November 1, 1805]
November 1st Friday 1805
A verry Cool morning wind hard from the N. E. The Indians who arrived
last evining took their Canoes on ther Sholders and Carried them below
the Great Shute, we Set about takeing our Small Canoe and all the
baggage by land 940 yards of bad Slippery and rockey way The Indians we
discoverd took ther loading the whole length of the portage 21/2 miles,
to avoid a Second Shute which appears verry bad to pass, and thro which
they passed with their empty canoes. Great numbers of Sea Otters, they
are So cautious that I with dificuelty got a Shot at one to day, which
I must have killed, but could not get him as he Sunk
we got all our baggage over the Portage of 940 yards, after which we
got the 4 large Canoes over by Slipping them over the rocks on poles
placed across from one rock to another, and at Some places along
partial Streams of the river. in passing those canoes over the rocks
&c. three of them recived injuries which obliged us to delay to have
them repared.
Several Indian Canoes arrived at the head of the portage, Some of the
men accompanied by those from the village came down to Smoke with us,
they appear to Speak the Same language with a little different axcent
I visited the Indian Village found that the Construction of the houses
Similar to those abov described, with this difference only that they
are larger Say from 35 to 50 feet by 30 feet, raised about 5 feet above
the earth, and nearly as much below The Dores in the Same form and Size
cut in the wide post which Supports one end of the ridge pole and which
is carved and painted with different figures & Hieroglyphics Those
people gave me to eate nuts berries & a little dried fish, and Sold me
a hat of ther own taste without a brim, and baskets in which they hold
their water- Their beads are raised about 41/2 feet, under which they
Store away their dried fish, between the part on which they lie and the
back wall they Store away their roots burries nuts and valuable
articles on mats, which are Spread also around the fire place which is
Sunk about one foot lower than the bottom fore of the house, this fire
place is about 8 feet long and Six feet wide Secured with a fraim those
houses are calculated for 4, 5 & 6 families, each familey haveing a
nice painted ladder to assend up to their beads. I Saw in those houses
Several wooden Images all cut in imitation of men, but differently
fasioned and placed in the most conspicious parts of the houses,
probably as an orniment I cannot lern certainly as to the traffick
those Inds. carry on below, if white people or the indians who trade
with the Whites who are either Settled or visit the mouth of this
river. I believe mostly with the latter as their knowledge of the white
people appears to be verry imperfect, and the articles which they
appear to trade mostly i e Pounded fish, Beargrass, and roots; cannot
be an object of comerce with furin merchants- however they git in
return for those articles Blue and white beeds copper Tea Kitties,
brass arm bands, some Scarlet and blue robes and a fiew articles of old
clothes, they prefer beeds to any thing and will part with the last
mouthfull or articles of clothing they have for a fiew of those beeds,
those beeds the trafick with Indians Still higher up this river for
roabs, Skins, cha-pel-el bread, beargrass &c. who in their turn trafick
with those under the rockey mountains for Beargrass, Pashico roots &
robes &c.
The nativs of the waters of the Columbia appear helthy, Some have
turners on different parts of their bodies, and Sore and weak Eyes are
common, maney have lost their Sight entirely great numbers with one eye
out and frequently the other verry weak; This misfortune I must again
asscribe to the water &c. They have bad teeth, which is not common with
indians, maney have worn their teeth down and Some quite into their
gums, this I cannot Satisfactorily account for it, do ascribe it in
some measure to their method of eateing, their food, roots pertiularly,
which they make use of as they are taken out of the earth frequently
nearly covered with Sand, I have not Seen any of their long roots
offered for Sale clear of Sand. They are rether below the Common Size
high cheeks womin Small and homely, and have Swelled legs and thighs,
and their knees remarkably large which I ascribe to the method in which
they Sit on their hams-go nearly necked wareing only a piece of leather
tied about their breast which falls down nearly as low as the waste, a
Small roabe about 3 feet Square, and a piece of leather tied about
their breach, They have all flat heads in this quarter They are tirty
in the extream, both in their person and cooking, ware their hare loose
hanging in every direction. They asc high prices for what they Sell and
Say that the white people below give great prices for every thing &c.
The noses are all pierced and when they are dressed they have a long
tapered piece of white shell or wampum put through the nose, Those
Shells are about 2 inches in length. I observed in maney of the
villeages which I have passed, the heads of the female children in the
press for the purpose of compressing their heads in their infancy into
a certain form, between two boards
[Clark, November 2, 1805]
Novr. 2d Saturday 1805
Meridian altitude 59° 45' 45" made a portage of about 11/2 miles with
half of the Baggage, and run the rapid with the Canoes without much
damage, one Struck a rock & Split a little, and 3 others took in Some
water 7 Squars Came over the portage loaded with Dried fish &
Beargrass, Soon after 4 men Came down in a Canoe after takeing
brackfast, & after taking a meridian altitude we Set out Passed 2 bad
rapids one at 2 & the other at 4 mile below the Isd on Lard. and upper
end of Strawberry Island on the Stard. Side from the Creek end of last
Course
We Labiech killed 14 Geese & a Brant, Collins one Jos. Fields & R 3
those gees are much Smaller than Common, and have white under their
rumps & around the tale, The tide rises here a fiew 9 Inches, I cannot
assertain the prosise hite it rises at the last rapid or at this
placeof Camp.
The Indians we left at the portage passed us this evening one other
Canoe Come up
[Clark, November 2, 1805]
November 2nd Saturday 1805
Examined the rapid below us more pertcelarly the danger appearing too
great to Hazzard our Canoes loaded, dispatched all the men who could
not Swim with loads to the end of the portage below, I also walked to
the end of the portage with the carriers where I delayed untill everry
articles was brought over and canoes arrived Safe. here we brackfast
and took a Meridn. altitude 59°45'45" about the time we were Setting out
7 Squars came over loaded with Dried fish, and bear grass neetly
bundled up, Soon after 4 Indian men came down over the rapid in a large
canoe. passed a rapid at 2 miles & 1 at 4 miles opposit the lower point
of a high Island on the Lard Side, and a little below 4 Houses on the
Stard. Bank, a Small Creek on the Lard Side opposit Straw berry Island,
which heads below the last rapid, opposit the lower point of this
Island passed three Islands covered with tall timber opposit the Beatin
rock Those Islands are nearest the Starboard Side, imediately below on
the Stard. Side passed a village of nine houses, which is Situated
between 2 Small Creeks, and are of the Same construction of those
above; here the river widens to near a mile, and the bottoms are more
extensive and thickly timbered, as also the high mountains on each
Side, with Pine, Spruce pine, Cotton wood, a Species of ash, and alder.
at 17 miles passed a rock near the middle of the river, about 100 feet
high and 80 feet Diamuter, proceed on down a Smoth gentle Stream of
about 2 miles wide, in which the tide has its effect as high as the
Beaten rock or the Last rapids at Strawberry Island,- Saw great numbers
of waterfowl of Different kinds, Such as Swan, Geese, white & grey
brants, ducks of various kinds, Guls, & Pleaver. Labeach killed 14
brantjoseph Fields 3 & Collins one. we encamped under a high projecting
rock on the Lard. Side, here the mountains leave the river on each
Side, which from the great Shute to this place is high and rugid;
thickly Covered with timber principalley of the Pine Species. The
bottoms below appear extensive and thickly Covered with wood. river
here about 21/2 miles wide. Seven Indians in a Canoe on their way down
to trade with the nativs below, encamp with us, those we left at the
portage passed us this evening and proceeded on down The ebb tide rose
here about 9 Inches, the flood tide must rise here much higher- we made
29 miles to day from the Great Shute-
[Clark, November 3, 1805]
November 3rd Sunday 1805
The fog So thick this morning we did not think it prudent to Set out
untill 10 oClock we Set out and proceeded on verry well, accompanied by
our Indian friends- This morning Labich killed 3 Geese flying Collins
killed a Duck- The water rose Inches last night the effects of tide.
The Countrey has a handsom appearance in advance no mountains extensive
bottoms- the water Shallow for a great distance from Shore-. The fog
continued thick untill 12 oClock, we Coasted, and halted at the mouth
of a large river on the Lard Side, This river throws out emence quanty
of Sand and is verry Shallow, th narrowest part 200 yards wide bold
Current, much resembling the river Plat, Several Islands about 1 mile
up and has a Sand bar of 3 miles in extent imedeately in its mouth,
discharging it waters by 2 mouths, and Crowding its Corse Sands So as
to throw the Columbian waters on its Nothern banks, & confdg it to 1/2
ms. in width Passed a Small Prarie on the Stard. Side above, a large
Creek opposit qk Sand River on the Stard. Side, extensive bottoms and
low hilley Countrey on each Side (good wintering Place) a high peaked
mountain Suppose to be Mt. Hood is on the Lard Side S. 85 E. 40 miles
distant from the mouth of quick Sand river.-
[Clark, November 3, 1805]
November 3rd Sunday 1805
The Fog So thick this morning that we could not See a man 50 Steps off,
this fog detained us untill 10 oClock at which time we Set out,
accompanied by our Indian friends who are from a village near the great
falls, previous to our Setting out Collins killed a large Buck, and
Labiech killed 3 Geese flying. I walked on the Sand beech Lard. Side,
opposit the canoes as they passed allong. The under groth rushes, vines
&c. in the bottoms too thick to pass through, at 3 miles I arrived at
the enterance of a river which appeared to Scatter over a Sand bar, the
bottom of which I could See quite across and did not appear to be 4
Inches deep in any part; I attempted to wade this Stream and to my
astonishment found the bottom a quick Sand, and impassable- I called to
the Canoes to put to Shore, I got into the Canoe and landed below the
mouth, & Capt Lewis and my Self walked up this river about 11/2 miles
to examine this river which we found to be a verry Considerable Stream
Dischargeing its waters through 2 Chanels which forms an Island of
about 3 miles in length on the river and 11/2 miles wide, composed of
Corse Sand which is thrown out of this quick Sand river Compressing the
waters of the Columbia and throwing the whole Current of its waters
against its Northern banks, within a Chanel of 1/2 a mile wide, Several
Small Islands 1 mile up this river, This Stream has much the appearance
of the River Plait; roleing its quick Sands into the bottoms with great
velocity after which it is divided into 2 Chanels by a large Sand bar
before mentioned, the narrowest part of this River is 120 yards-on the
Opposit Side of the Columbia a falls in above this Creek on the Same
Side is a Small prarie. extensive low country on each Side thickly
timbered.
The Quick Sand river appears to pass through the low countrey at the
foot of those high range of mountains in a Southerly direction,- The
large Creeks which fall into the Columbia on the Stard. Side rise in
the Same range of mountains to the N. N. E. and pass through Some
ridgey land- A Mountain which we Suppose to be Mt. Hood is S. 85 E
about 47 miles distant from the mouth of quick sand river This mtn. is
Covered with Snow and in the range of mountains which we have passed
through and is of a Conical form but rugid- after takeing dinner at the
mouth of this river we proceeded on passed the head of a Island near
the lard Side back of which on the Same Side and near the head a large
Creek falls in, and nearly opposit & 3 miles below the upper mouth of
quick Sand river is the lower mouth, This Island is 31/2 miles long,
has rocks at the upper point, Some timber on the borders of this Island
in the middle open and ponney. Some rugid rocks in the middle of the
Stream opposit this Island. proceeded in to Center of a large Island in
the middle of the river which we call Dimond Isld. from its appearance,
here we met 15 Indn men in 2 canoes from below, they informed us they
Saw 3 vestles below &c. &c. we landed on the North Side of this Dimond
Island and Encamped, Capt. L walked out with his gun on the Island,
Sent out hunters & fowlers- below quick Sand River the Countrey is low
rich and thickly timbered on each Side of the river, the Islands open &
Some ponds river wide and emence numbers of fowls flying in every
direction Such as Swan, geese, Brants, Cranes, Stalks, white guls,
comerants & plevers &c. also great numbers of Sea Otter in the river- a
Canoe arrived from the village below the last rapid with a man his wife
and 3 children, and a woman whome had been taken prisoner from the
Snake Inds. on Clarks River I Sent the Interpreters wife who is a So So
ne or Snake Indian of the Missouri, to Speake to this Squar, they Could
not understand each other Sufficiently to Converse. This familey and
the Inds. we met from below continued with us Capt Lewis borrowed a
Small Canoe of those Indians & 4 men took her across to a Small lake in
the Isld. Cap L. and 3 men Set out after night in this Canoe in Serch
of the Swans, Brants Ducks &c. &c. which appeared in great numbers in
the Lake, he Killed a Swan and Several Ducks which made our number of
fowls this evening 3 Swan, 8 brant and 5 Ducks, on which we made a
Sumptious Supper. We gave the Indian-who lent the Canoe a brant, and
Some meat to the others. one of those Indians, the man from the village
near the lower Rapids has a gun with a brass barrel & Cock of which he
prises highly- note the mountain we Saw from near the forks proves to
be Mount Hood
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