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Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark

M >> Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark

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This little Creek heads in the range of mountains which run S S W & N W
for a long distance on which is Scattering pine white Oake &c. The
Pinical of the round toped mountain which we Saw a Short distance below
the forks of this river is S. 43° W. of us and abt 37 miles, it is at
this time toped with Snow we called this the falls mountain or Timm
mountain. The face of the Countrey, on both Side of the river above and
about the falls, is Steep ruged and rockey open and contain but a Small
preportion of erbage, no timber a fiew bushes excepted, The nativs at
the upper falls raft their timber down Towarnehooks River & those at
the narrows take theirs up the river to the lower part of the narrows
from this Creek, and Carry it over land 3 miles to their houses &c. at
the mouth of this creek Saw Some beaver Sign, and a Small wolf in a
Snare Set in the willows The Snars of which I saw Several made for to
catch wolves, are made as follows vz: a long pole which will Spring is
made fast with bark to a willow, on the top of this pole a String

[Clark, October 26, 1805]
October 26th 1805 Saturday
a fine morning Sent out Six men to hunt deer & Collect rozin to Pitch
our Canoes, had all our articles put out to dry- Canoes drawed out and
repaired, the injories recved in drawing them over the rocks, every
article wet in the Canoe which nearly Sunk yesterday-

In the evening 2 Chief and 15 men came over in a Single Canoe, those
Chf's proved to be the 2 great Chiefs of the tribes above, one gave me
a dressed Elk Skin, and gave us Som deer meet, and 2 Cakes of white
bread made of white roots, we gave to each Chief a Meadel of the Small
Size a red Silk handkerchief & a knife to the 1st a arm ban & a pin of
Paint & a Comb to his Son a Piece of riben tied to a tin gorget and 2
hams of Venison They deturmined to Stay with us all night, we had a
fire made for them & one man played on the violin which pleased them
much my Servent danced- our hunters killed five Deer, 4 verry large
gray Squirrels, a goose & Pheasent, one man giged a Salmon trout which
we had fried in a little Bears oil which a Chief gave us yesterday and
I think the finest fish I ever tasted, Saw great numbers of white Crams
flying in Different directions verry high. The river has rose nearly 8
Inches to day and has every appearance of a tide, from what Cause I
can't Say- our hunters Saw Elk & bear signs to day in the white oake
woods the Country to the Lard is broken Country thinly timbered with
pine and white oake, a mountain which I must call Timm or falls
Mountain rises verry high and bears to S W the Course it has bore Sinc
we first Saw it. our men danced to night. dried all our wet articles
and repaired our Canoes

The flees my Self and the men got on them in passing thro the plains
the Indians had lately lived in Lodges on the Lard. Side at the falls,
are very troublesom and with every exertion the men Can't get rid of
them, perticilarly as they have no clothes to change those which they
wore Those Indians are at Ware with the Snake Indians on the river
which falls in a few miles above this and have lately had a battle with
them, their loss I cannot lern.

[Clark, October 26, 1805]
October 26th Saturday 1805
A fine morning Sent Six men out to hunt Deer, and Collect rozin to
pitch the Canoes which has become verry leakey, by frequently hauling
them over rocks &c as well Striking rocks frequently in passing down.
all our articles we have exposed to the Sun to Dry; and the Canoes
drawn out and turned up- maney of our Stores entirely Spoiled by being
repeetedly wet; A number of Indians came to the Oposit Side of the
river in the fore part of the day and Shew that they were anxious to
Cross to us, we did not think proper to cross them in our Canoes and
did not Send for them. in the evening two Chiefs and 15 men came over
in a Small Canoe, those two Chiefs proved to be the two Principal
Chiefs of the tribes above at the falls, and above, who was out hunting
at the time we passed their bands; one of those Chiefs made Capt Lewis
and my Self each a Small present of Deer meat, and Small Cakes of white
bread made of roots. we gave to each Chief a Meadel of the Small Size a
red Silk handkerchief, arm band, Knife & a piece of Paint, and
acknowledged them as chiefs; as we thought it necessary at this time to
treat those people verry friendly & ingratiate our Selves with them, to
insure us a kind & friendly reception on our return, we gave Small
presents to Several, and half a Deer to them to eate. we had also a
fire made for those people to Sit around in the middle of our Camp, and
Peter Crusat Played on the violin, which pleased those nativs
exceedingly. the two Chiefs and Several men deturmined to delay all
night (yorked Danced for the Inds) with us all the others returned,
leaving the horses for those who Staied on the opposit Side. our
hunters returned in the evening Killed five Deer, four verry large grey
Squirels and a grouse. one of the guard at the river guiged a Salmon
Trout, which we had fried in a little Bears Oil which the Chief we
passed below the narrows gave us; this I thought one of the most
delicious fish I have ever tasted Great numbers of white Crain flying
in different Directions verry high- The river rose 8 Inches today from
what cause I cannot Say certainly, as the tides cannot effect the river
here as there is a falls below, I conjecture that the rise is owing to
the winds which has Set up the river for 24 hours past. our hunters
inform that the countrey back is broken, Stoney and thinly timbered
with pine and White Oake. They Saw Elk & Bear Sign in the mountains.
Dried all our wet articles and repared our Canoes to day, and the Party
amused themselves at night danceing. The Flees which the party got on
them at the upper & great falls, are very troublesom and dificuelt to
get rid of, perticularly as the men have not a Change of Clothes to put
on, they Strip off their Clothes and kill the flees, dureing which time
they remain neckid.

The nations in the vicinity of this place is at War with the Snake
Indians who they Say are noumerous and live on the river we passed
above the falls on the Same Side on which we have encamped, and the
nearest town is about four days march they pointed nearly S. E. and
informed that they had a battle with those Inds. laterly, their loss I
could not assertain

[Clark, October 27, 1805]
October 27th Sunday 1805
a verry windy night and morning wind from the West and hard, Send out
hunters and they killed 4 deer 1 pheasent and a Squirel the 2 Chiefs
and party Continue with us, we treat them well give them to eate &
Smoke, they were joined by Seven others, from below who Stayed about 3
hours and returned down the river in a pet, Soon after the Chiefs
deturmined to go home we had them put across the river the wind verry
high, we took a vocabelary of the Languages of the 2 nations, the one
liveing at the Falls call themselves E-nee-shur The other resideing at
the levels or narrows in a village on the Std. Side call themselves
E-chee-lute not withstanding those people live only 6 miles apart, but
fiew words of each others language- the language of those above having
great Similarity with those tribes of flat heads we have passed- all
have the Clucking tone anexed which is predomint. above, all flatten
the heads of their female children near the falls, and maney above
follow the Same Custom The language of the Che-luc-it-to-quar a fiew
miles below is different from both in a Small degree. The wind
increased in the evening and blew verry hard from the Same point W. day
fair and Cold- The Creek at which we are Encamped is Called by the
natives-Que-nett Some words with Shabono about his duty- The pinical of
Falls mountain bears S 43° W. about 35 miles

[Clark, October 27, 1805]
October 27th Sunday 1805
Wind hard from the west all the last night and this morning. Some words
with Shabono our interpreter about his duty. Sent out Several hunters
who brought in four Deer, one Grouse & a Squirel. The two Chiefs &
party was joined by Seven others from below in two canoes, we gave them
to eate & Smoke Several of those from below returned down the river in
a bad humer, haveing got into this pet by being prevented doeing as
they wished with our articles which was then exposed to dry- we took a
Vocabelary of the Languages of those two chiefs which are verry
different notwithstanding they are Situated within Six miles of each
other, Those at the great falls Call themselves E-nee-shur and are
understood on the river above. Those at the Great Narrows Call
themselves Eche-lute and is understood below, maney words of those
people are the Same, and Common to all the flat head Bands which we
have passed on the river, all have the clucking tone anexed which is
prodomonate above. all the Bands flatten the heads of the female
Children, and maney of the male children also. Those two Chief leave us
this evening and returned to their bands, the wind verry high & from
the West, day proved fair and Cool.

The nativs Call this Creek near which we are encamped-Que-nett.

[Clark, October 28, 1805]
October 28th Monday 1805
a windey morning loaded our Canoes and Set out at 9 oClock a m 3 Canoes
Came down from the Village above & 2 from that below in one of those
Canoes a Indian wore his hair cued, and had on a round hat. Wind from
West

Those Indians have a musket a Sword, and Several Brass Tea kitties
which they appear to be verry fond of we purchased of those people five
Small dogs, and Some Dried beries & white bread of roots, the wind rose
and we were obliged to lie by about 1 mile below on the Lard. Side
North 1 mile to a rock Island on the Stard. Side. we had not landed
long eer an Indian Canoe Came from below with 3 Indians in it, those
Indians make verry nice Canoes of Pine. Thin with aporns & Carve on the
head imitation of animals & other heads; The Indians above Sacrafise
the property of the Deceased to wit horses Canoes, bowls Basquets of
which they make great use to hold water boil their meet &c. &c. great
many Indians came down from the uppr Village & Sat with us, Smoked,
rained all the evenig & blew hard from the West encamped on the Lard
Side opsd. an Rock in a verry Bad place

[Clark, October 28, 1805]
October 28th Monday 1805
A cool windey morning we loaded our Canoes and Set out at 9 oClock,
a.m. as we were about to Set out 3 canoes from above and 2 from below
came to view us in one of those Canoes I observed an Indian with round
hat jacket & wore his hair cued we proceeded on river inclosed on each
Side in high Clifts of about 90 feet of loose dark coloured rocks at
four miles we landed at a village of 8 houses on the Stard. Side under
Some rugid rocks, Those people call themselves Chil-luckit-tequaw, live
in houses Similar to those described, Speake Somewhat different
language with maney words the Same & understand those in their
neighbourhood Cap Lewis took a vocabilary of this Language I entered
one of the houses in which I Saw a British musket, a cutlass and
Several brass Tea kittles of which they appeared verry fond Saw them
boiling fish in baskets with Stones, I also Saw figures of animals &
men Cut & painted on boards in one Side of the house which they
appeared to prize, but for what purpose I will not venter to Say,-.
here we purchased five Small Dogs, Some dried buries, & white bread
made of roots, the wind rose and we were obliged to lie by all day at 1
mile below on the Lard. Side. we had not been long on Shore before a
Canoe came up with a man woman & 2 children, who had a fiew roots to
Sell, Soon after maney others joined them from above, The wind which is
the cause of our delay, does not retard the motions of those people at
all, as their canoes are calculated to ride the highest waves, they are
built of white cedar or Pine verry light wide in the middle and tapers
at each end, with aperns, and heads of animals carved on the bow, which
is generally raised. Those people make great use of Canoes, both for
transpotation and fishing, they also use of bowls & baskets made of
Grass & Splits to hold water and boil their fish & meat. Maney of the
nativs of the last Village Came down Set and Smoke with us, wind blew
hard accompanied with rain all the evening, our Situation not a verry
good one for an encampment, but Such as it is we are obliged to put up
with, the harbor is a Safe one, we encamped on the Sand wet and
disagreeable one Deer killed this evening, and another wounded near our
Camp.

[Clark, October 29, 1805]
October 29th Tuesday 1805
a Cloudy morning wind Still from th West not hard, we Set out at day
light proceeded on about 5 miles and Came too at a Lodge of a Chief
which we made at the upper village at th falls about his house there is
Six others This chief gave us to eate Sackacommis burries Hasel nuts
fish Pounded, and a kind of Bread made of roots- we gave to the Women
pices of ribon, which they appeared pleased with- those houses are
large 25 feet Sqr and contain abt. 8 men, Say 30 inhabitents-

Those people are friendly gave us to eate fish Beries, nuts bread of
roots & Drid beries and we Call this the friendly Village We purchased
12 dogs of them & 4 Sacks of Pounded fish, and Some fiew Dried Berries
and proceeded on at 4 miles further we landed to Smoke a pipe with the
people of a village of 11 houses we found those people also friendly
Their Village is Situated imediately below the mouth of a River of 60
yards water which falls in on the Stard. Side and heads in the
mountains to the N. & N, E, the Indians inform us that this river is
long and full of falls no Salmon pass up it. They also inform that 10
nations lives on this river by hunting and on buries &c. The Countrey
begin to be thinly timbered with Pine & low white oake verry rocky and
hilley- We purchased at this vilg 4 dogs- at the end of this Course is
3 rocks, in the river and a rock point from the Lard. the middle rock
is large and has a number of graves on it we call it the Sepulchar
Island. The last River we call Caterack River from the number of falls
which the Indians inform is on it The Indians are afraid to hunt or be
on th Lard Side of this Columbia river for fear of the Snake Ind. who
reside on a fork of this river which falls in above the falls a good
Situation for winter quarters if game can be had is just below
Sepulchar rock on the Lard Side, high & pine and oake timber the rocks
ruged above, good hunting Countrey back, as it appears from the river
Indian village opsd. Of 2 Lodgs river 1/2 mile wide at rocks

The robes of those Indians are, of wolf deer Elk, wild cats, Some fox,
& Deer I saw one of the mountain Sheep, th wool thick and long Corse
hair on the back, resembling bristles- those animals live among the
rocks in those mountains below, orter is much valued by those people
they Cew their hair on each Side with it and ware it about the necks
with the tail in front

Came too at 3 miles on this Course at 3 Houses of flatheads and
Encamped on the Stard. Side, a Pond lies back of those people in which
we Saw great numbers of the Small Swan. we Purchased of those people 3
Dogs they gave us High bush cramburies, bread of roots and roots, they
were pleased with musick of th violin.

[Clark, October 29, 1805]
October 29th Tuesday 1805
A cloudy morning wind from the West but not hard, we Set out at day
light, and proceeded on about five miles Came too on the Stard. Side at
a village of 7 houses built in the Same form and materials of those
above, here we found the Chief we had Seen at the long narrows named
____

we entered his lodge and he gave us to eate Pounded fish, bread made of
roots, Filberts nuts, & the berries of Sackecomme. we gave to each
woman of the lodge a brace of Ribon of which they were much pleased.
each of those houses may be calculated to contain 8 men and 30 Soles,
they are hospitable and good humered Speak the Same language of the
inhabitants of the last village, we call this the friendly village. I
observed in the lodge of the Chief Sundery articles which must have
been precured from the white people, Such a Scarlet & blue Cloth Sword
Jacket & hat. I also observed two wide Split boards with images on them
Cut and painted in emitation of a man; I pointed to this image and
asked a man to what use he put them to, he Said Something the only word
I understood was "good," and then Steped to the image and took out his
Bow & quiver to Show me, and Some other of his war emplemints, from
behind it.

The Chief then directed his wife to hand him his medison bag which he
opened and Showed us 14 fingers which he Said was the fingers of his
enemies which he had taken in war, and pointed to S. E. from which
direction I concluded they were Snake Indians; this is the first
Instance I ever knew of the Indians takeing any other trofea of their
exploits off the dead bodies of their Enimies except the Scalp.- The
Chief painted those fingers with Several other articles which was in
his bag red and Securely put them back, haveing first mad a Short
harrang which I Suppose was bragging of what he had done in war. we
purchased 12 Dogs and 4 Sacks of fish, & Some fiew ascid berries, after
brackfast we proceeded on, the mountains are high on each Side,
containing Scattering pine white oake & under groth, hill Sides Steep
and rockey; at 4 miles lower we observed a Small river falling in with
great rapidity on the Stard. Side below which is a village of 11
houses, here we landed to Smoke a pipe with the nativs and examine the
mouth of the river, which I found to be 60 yards wide rapid and deep,
The inhabitants of the village are friendly and Chearfull; those people
inform us also those at the last village that this little river is long
and full of falls, no Salmon pass up it, it runs from N. N. E. that ten
nations live on this river and its waters, on buries, and what game
they Can kill with their Bow & arrows

we purchased 4 dogs and Set out- (this village is the of the Same
nation of the one we last passed) and proceeded on The Countrey on each
side begin to be thicker timbered with Pine and low white Oake; verry
rockey and broken. passed three large rocks in The river the middle
rock is large long and has Several Squar vaults on it. we call this
rockey Island the Sepulchar- The last river we passed we Shall Call the
Cataract River from the number of falls which the Indians say is on it-
passed 2 Lodges of Indians a Short distance below the Sepulchar Island
on the Stard. Side river wide, at 4 mile passed 2 houses on the Stard.
Side, Six miles lower passed 4 houses above the mouth of a Small river
40 yards wide on the Lard. Side a thick timbered bottom above & back of
those houses; those are the first houses which we have Seen on the
South Side of the Columbia River, (and the axess to those dificuelt)
for fear of the approach of their common enemies the Snake Indians,
passed 14 houses on the Std. Side Scattered on the bank- from the mouth
of this little river which we shall Call Labeasche River, the falls
mountain is South and the top is covered with Snow. one mile below pass
the mouth of a large rapid Stream on the Stard. Side, opposit to a
large Sand bar, in this creek the Indians above take their fish, here
we Saw Several canoes, which induced us to call this Canoe Creek it is
28 yards wide, about 4 miles lower and below the Sand bar is a butifull
cascade falling over a rock of about 100 feet, a Short distance lower
passed 4 Indian houses on the Lard. Side in a timbered bottom, a fiew
miles further we came too at 3 houses on Stard. Side, back of which is
a pond in which I Saw Great numbers of Small Swan, Capt. Lewis and I
went into the houses of those people who appeared Somewhat Surprised at
first Their houses are built on the Same Construction of those above,
Speak the Same language and Dress in the Same way, robes of the Skins
of wolves Deer, Elk, wild cat, or Loucirvia & fox, also Saw a mountain
Sheap Skin the wool of which is long, thick, & corse with long corse
hare on the top of the neck and back Something resembling bristles of a
goat, the skin was of white hare, those animals these people inform me
by Signs live in the mountains among the rocks, their horns are Small
and Streight, Orter Skins are highly prised among those people as well
as those on the river above, They Cue their hare which is divided on
each Sholder, and also ware Small Strips about their necks with the
tale hanging down in front.- Those people gave us, High bush cram
berries, bread made of roots, and roots; we purchased three dogs for
the party to eate; we Smoked with the men, all muche pleased with the
violin-. Here the mountains are high on each Side, those to the Lard.
Side has Some Snow on them at this time, more timber than above and of
greater variety.

[Clark, October 30, 1805]
October 30th Wednesday 1805 A Cloudy morning. Some little rain all
night, after eating a Slight brackfast of venison we Set out.

The rocks project into the river in maney places and have the
appearance of haveing fallen from the highe hills those projected rocks
is common & Small Bays below & nitches in the rocks passed 4 Cascades
or Small Streams falling from the mountains on Lard. This part of the
river resembles a pond partly dreaned leaving many Stumps bare both in
& out of the water, current about 1 mil pr. Hour

The bottom above the river is about 3/4 of a mile wide and rich, Some
deer & bear Sign- rained moderately all day we are wet and cold. Saw
Several Specis of wood which I never Saw before, Some resembling Beech
& others Poplar.- Day dark and disagreeable

I with 2 men proceeded down the river 2 miles on an old Indian parth to
view the rapids, which I found impassable for our canoes without a
portage, the roade bad at 1 mile I saw a Town of Houses laterly
abandoned on an elevated Situation opsd. a 2d Shute, returned at dark.
Capt. Lewis and 5 men went to the Town found them kind they gave Beries
& nuts, but he cd. get nothin from them in the way of Information, the
greater part of those people out collecting roots below, rained all the
evining Those people have one gun & maney articles which they have
purchased of the white people their food is principally fish

[Clark, October 30, 1805]
October 30th Wednesday 1805
A cool morning, a moderate rain all the last night, after eating a
partial brackfast of venison we Set out passed Several places where the
rocks projected into the river & have the appearance of haveing
Seperated from the mountains and fallen promiscuisly into the river,
Small nitches are formed in the banks below those projecting rocks
which is comon in this part of the river, Saw 4 Cascades caused by
Small Streams falling from the mountains on the Lard. Side, a
remarkable circumstance in this part of the river is, the Stumps of
pine trees are in maney places are at Some distance in the river, and
gives every appearance of the rivers being darned up below from Some
cause which I am not at this time acquainted with, the Current of the
river is also verry jentle not exceeding 11/2 mile pr. hour and about
3/4 of a mile in width. Some rain, we landed above the mouth of a Small
river on the Stard. Side and Dined J. Shields Killed a Buck & Labiech 3
Ducks, here the river widens to about one mile large Sand bar in the
middle, a Great rock both in and out of the water, large Stones, or
rocks are also permiscuisly Scattered about in the river, this day we
Saw Some fiew of the large Buzzard Capt. Lewis Shot at one, those
Buzzards are much larger than any other of ther Spece or the largest
Eagle white under part of their wings &c. The bottoms above the mouth
of this little river is rich covered with grass & firn & is about 3/4
of a mile wide rich and rises gradually, below the river (which is 60
yards wide above its mouth) the Countery rises with Steep assent. we
call this little river New Timbered river from a Speces of Ash which
grows on its banks of a verry large and different from any we had
before Seen, and a timber resembling the beech in bark but different in
its leaf which is Smaller and the tree smaller. passed maney large
rocks in the river and a large creek on the Stard. Side in the mouth of
which is an Island, passed on the right of 3 Islands near the Stard.
Side, and landed on an Island close under the Stard. Side at the head
of the great Shute, and a little below a village of 8 large houses on a
Deep bend on the Stard. Side, and opposit 2 Small Islands imediately in
the head of the Shute, which Islands are covered with Pine, maney large
rocks also, in the head of the Shute. Ponds back of the houses, and
Countrey low for a Short distance. The day proved Cloudy dark and
disagreeable with Some rain all day which kept us wet. The Countary a
high mountain on each Side thickly Covered with timber, Such as Spruc,
Pine, Cedar, Oake Cotton &c. &c. I took two men and walked down three
miles to examine the Shute and river below proceeded along an old
Indian path, passd. an old village at 1 mile on an ellevated Situation
of this village contained verry large houses built in a different form
from any I had Seen, and laterly abandoned, and the most of the boads
put into a pond of water near the village, as I conceived to drown the
flees, which was emencely noumerous about the houses-. I found by
examonation that we must make a portage of the greater perpotion of our
Stores 21/2 miles, and the Canoes we Could haul over the rocks, I
returned at Dark Capt Lewis and 5 men had just returned from the
village, Cap L. informed me that he found the nativs kind, they gave
him berries, nuts & fish to eate; but he could get nothing from them in
the way of information. The greater part of the inhabitants of this
village being absent down the river Some distance Colecting roots Capt.
L. Saw one gun and Several articles which must have been precured from
the white people. a wet disagreeable evening, the only wood we could
get to burn on this little Island on which we have encamped is the
newly discovered Ash, which makes a tolerable fire. we made fifteen
miles to daye.

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