Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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The probable reason of the Indians residing on the Stard. Side of this
as well as the waters of Lewis's River is their fear of the Snake
Indians who reside, as they nativs Say on a great river to the South,
and are at war with those tribes, one of the Old Chiefs who accompanies
us pointed out a place on the lard. Side where they had a great battle,
not maney years ago, in which maney were killed on both Sides-, one of
our party J. Collins presented us with Some verry good beer made of the
Pashi-co-quar-mash bread, which bread is the remains of what was laid
in as Stores of Provisions, at the first flat heads or Cho-punnish
Nation at the head of the Kosskoske river which by being frequently wet
molded & Sowered &c. we made 33 miles to day.
[Clark, October 22, 1805]
October 22nd Tuesday 1805
a fine morning Calm. we Set out at 9 oClock and on the Course S. 52° W.
10 miles passed lodges & Inds. and rapids as mentioned in the Cours of
yesterday, from the expiration of
Took our Baggage & formed a Camp below the rapids in a cove on the
Stard Side the distance 1200 yards haveing passed at the upper end of
the portage 17 Lodges of Indians, below the rapids & above the Camp 5
large Loges of Indians, great numbers of baskets of Pounded fish on the
rocks Islands & near their Lodges thos are neetly pounded & put in
verry new baskets of about 90 or 100 pounds wight. hire Indians to take
our heavy articles across the portage purchased a Dog for Supper Great
numbers of Indians view us, we with much dificuelty purchd. as much
wood as Cooked our dogs this evening, our men all in helth- The Indians
have their grave yards on an Island in the rapids. The Great Chief of
those Indians is out hunting. no Indians reside on the Lard Side for
fear of the Snake Indians with whome they are at war and who reside on
the large fork on the lard. a little above
[Clark, October 22, 1805]
October 22d Tuesday 1805
A fine morning calm and fare we Set out at 9 oClock passed a verry bad
rapid at the head of an Island close under the Stard. Side, above this
rapid on the Stard Side is Six Lodges of nativs Drying fish, at 9 mls.
passed a bad rapid at the head of a large Island of high, uneaven
rocks, jutting over the water, a Small Island in a Stard. Bend opposit
the upper point, on which I counted 20 parcels of dryed and pounded
fish; on the main Stard Shore opposit to this Island five Lodges of
Indians are Situated Several Indians in Canoes killing fish with gigs,
&c. opposit the center of this Island of rocks which is about 4 miles
long we discovered the enterence of a large river on the Lard. Side
which appeared to Come from the S. E.- we landed at Some distance above
the mouth of this river and Capt. Lewis and my Self Set out to view
this river above its mouth, as our rout was intersepted by a deep
narrow Chanel which runs out of this river into the Columbia a little
below the place we landed, leaveing a high dry rich Island of about 400
yards wide and 800 yards long here we Seperated, I proceeded on to the
river and Struck it at the foot of a verry Considerable rapid, here I
beheld an emence body of water Compressd in a narrow Chanel of about
200 yds in width, fomeing over rocks maney of which presented their
tops above the water, when at this place Capt. Lewis joined me haveing
delayed on the way to examine a root of which the nativs had been
digging great quantities in the bottoms of this River. at about two
miles above this River appears to be confined between two high hils
below which it divided by numbers of large rocks, and Small Islands
covered with a low groth of timber, and has a rapid as far as the
narrows three Small Islands in the mouth of this River, this River
haveing no Indian name that we could find out, except "the River on
which the Snake Indians live," we think it best to leave the nameing of
it untill our return.
we proceeded on pass the mouth of this river at which place it appears
to discharge 1/4 as much water as runs down the Columbia. at two miles
below this River passed Eight Lodges on the Lower point of the Rock
Island aforesaid at those Lodges we saw large logs of wood which must
have been rafted down the To war-ne hi ooks River, below this Island on
the main Stard Shore is 16 Lodges of nativs; here we landed a fiew
minits to Smoke, the lower point of one Island opposit which heads in
the mouth of Towarnehiooks River which I did not observe untill after
passing these lodges about 1/2 a mile lower passed 6 more Lodges on the
Same Side and 6 miles below the upper mouth of Towarnehiooks River the
comencement of the pitch of the Great falls, opposit on the Stard. Side
is 17 Lodges of the nativs we landed and walked down accompanied by an
old man to view the falls, and the best rout for to make a portage
which we Soon discovered was much nearest on the Stard. Side, and the
distance 1200 yards one third of the way on a rock, about 200 yards
over a loose Sand collected in a hollar blown by the winds from the
bottoms below which was disagreeable to pass, as it was Steep and
loose. at the lower part of those rapids we arrived at 5 Large Lodges
of nativs drying and prepareing fish for market, they gave us
Philburts, and berries to eate, we returned droped down to the head of
the rapids and took every article except the Canoes across the portag
where I had formed a camp on ellegable Situation for the protection of
our Stores from Thieft, which we were more fearfull of, than their
arrows. we despatched two men to examine the river on the opposit Side,
and reported that the Canoes could be taken down a narrow Chanel on the
opposit Side after a Short portage at the head of the falls, at which
place the Indians take over their Canoes. Indians assisted us over the
portage with our heavy articles on their horses, the waters is divided
into Several narrow chanels which pass through a hard black rock
forming Islands of rocks at this Stage of the water, on those Islands
of rocks as well as at and about their Lodges I observe great numbers
of Stacks of pounded Salmon neetly preserved in the following manner, i
e after Suffiently Dried it is pounded between two Stones fine, and put
into a speces of basket neetly made of grass and rushes of better than
two feet long and one foot Diamiter, which basket is lined with the
Skin of Salmon Stretched and dried for the purpose, in theis it is
pressed down as hard as is possible, when full they Secure the open
part with the fish Skins across which they fasten tho the loops of the
basket that part very Securely, and then on a Dry Situation they Set
those baskets the Corded part up, their common Custom is to Set 7 as
close as they can Stand and 5 on the top of them, and secure them with
mats which is raped around them and made fast with cords and Covered
also with mats, those 12 baskets of from 90 to 100 w. each form a
Stack. thus preserved those fish may be kept Sound and Sweet Several
years, as those people inform me, Great quantities as they inform us
are Sold to the whites people who visit the mouth of this river as well
as to the nativs below.
on one of those Island I saw Several tooms but did not visit them The
principal Chiefs of the bands resideing about this Place is out hunting
in the mountains to the S. W.- no Indians reside on the S. W.side of
this river for fear (as we were informed) of the Snake Indians, who are
at war with the tribes on this river-- they represent the Snake Indians
as being verry noumerous, and resideing in a great number of villages
on Towarnehiooks River which falls in 6 miles above on the Lard. Side
and is reaches a great ways and is large a little abov its mouth at
which part it is not intersepted with rapids, they inform that one
considerable rapid & maney Small ones in that river, and that the Snake
live on Salmon, and they go to war to their first villages in 12 days,
the Couse they pointed is S. E. or to the S of S. E. we are visited by
great numbers of Indians to Day to view us, we purchased a Dog for
Supper, Some fish and with dificuelty precured as much wood as Cooked
Supper, which we also purchased we made 19 miles to day
[Clark, October 23, 1805]
October 23rd (Saturday) Wednesday 1805
Took the Canoes over the Portage on the Lard. Side with much
dificuelty, description on another Paper one Canoe got loose & cought
by the Indians which we were obliged to pay. our old Chiefs over herd
the Indians from below Say they would try to kill us & informed us of
it, we have all the arm examined and put in order, all th Inds leave us
early, Great numbers of flees on the Lard Side- Shot a Sea Oter which I
did not get, Great Numbers about those rapids we purchased 8 dogs,
Small & fat for our party to eate, the Indians not verry fond of
Selling their good fish, compells us to make use of dogs for food
Exchanged our Small canoe for a large & a very new one built for riding
the waves obsd Merdn. altd. 66° 27' 30" Latd. prodsd. 45° 42' 57 3/10" North
[Clark, October 23, 1805]
October 23d Wednesday 1805
a fine morning, I with the greater part of the men Crossed in the
Canoes to opposit Side above the falls and hauled them across the
portage of 457 yards which is on the Lard. Side and certainly the best
side to pass the canoes I then decended through a narrow chanel of
about 150 yards wide forming a kind of half circle in it course of a
mile to a pitch of 8 feet in which the chanel is divided by 2 large
rocks at this place we were obliged to let the Canoes down by Strong
ropes of Elk Skin which we had for the purpose, one Canoe in passing
this place got loose by the Cords breaking, and was cought by the
Indians below. I accomplished this necessary business and landed Safe
with all the Canoes at our Camp below the falls by 3 oClock P.M. nearly
covered with flees which were So thick amongst the Straw and fish Skins
at the upper part of the portage at which place the nativs had been
Camped not long Since; that every man of the party was obliged to Strip
naked dureing the time of takeing over the canoes, that they might have
an oppertunity of brushing the flees of their legs and bodies- Great
numbers of Sea Otters in the river below the falls, I Shot one in the
narrow chanel to day which I could not get. Great numbers of Indians
visit us both from above and below-- one of the old Chiefs who had
accompanied us from the head of the river, informed us that he herd the
Indians Say that the nation below intended to kill us, we examined all
the arms &c. complete the amunition to 100 rounds. The nativs leave us
earlyer this evening than usial, which gives a Shadow of Confirmation
to the information of our Old Chief, as we are at all times & places on
our guard, are under no greater apprehention than is common.
we purchased 8 Small fat dogs for the party to eate the nativs not
being fond of Selling their good fish, compells us to make use of Dog
meat for food, the flesh of which the most of the party have become
fond of from the habits of useing it for Some time past. The Altitude
of this day 66° 27' 30" gave for Latd. 45° 42' 57 1/10 N.
I observed on the beach near the Indian Lodges two Canoes butifull of
different Shape & Size to what we had Seen above wide in the midde and
tapering to each end, on the bow curious figures were Cut in the wood
&c. Capt. Lewis went up to the Lodges to See those Canoes and exchanged
our Smallest Canoe for one of them by giveing a Hatchet & few trinkets
to the owner who informed that he purchased it of a white man below for
a horse, these Canoes are neeter made than any I have ever Seen and
Calculated to ride the waves, and carry emence burthens, they are dug
thin and are suported by cross pieces of about 1 inch diamuter tied
with Strong bark thro holes in the Sides. our two old Chiefs appeared
verry uneasy this evening.
[Clark, October 24, 1805]
October 24th Thursday 1805
a fine morning the Indians approached us with caution. our 2 old Chiefs
deturmin to return home, Saying they were at war with Indians below and
they would kill them we pursuaded them to Stay 2 nights longer with us,
with a view to make a peace with those Indians below as well as to have
them with us dureing our Delay with this tribe. Capt Lewis went to view
the falls I Set out with the party at 9 oClock a m at 21/2 miles passed
a rock which makes from the Stard Side 4 Lodges above 1 below and
Confined the river in a narrow channel of about 45 yards this continued
for about 1/4 of a mile & widened to about 200 yards, in those narrows
the water was agitated in a most Shocking manner boils Swell & whorl
pools, we passed with great risque It being impossible to make a
portage of the Canoes, about 2 miles lower passed a verry Bad place
between 2 rocks one large & in the middle of the river here our Canoes
took in Some water, I put all the men who Could not Swim on Shore; &
Sent a fiew articles Such as guns & papers, and landed at a village of
20 houses on the Stard Side in a Deep bason where the river ap-prd. to
be blocked up with emence rocks I walked down and examined the pass
found it narrow, and one verry bad place a little in the narrows I
pursued this Chanel which is from 50 to 100 yards wide and Swels and
boils with a most Tremendeous manner; prosued this channel 5 ms &
returned found Capt Lewis & a Chief from below with maney of his men on
a visit to us, one of our Party Pete Crusat played on the violin which
pleased the Savage, the men danced, Great numbers of Sea Orter Pole
Cats about those fishories. the houses of those Indians are 20 feet
Square and Sunk 8 feet under ground & Covered with bark with a Small
door round at top rose about 18 Inches above ground, to keep out the
Snow I saw 107 parcels of fish Stacked, and great quantites in the
houses
[Clark, October 24, 1805]
October 24th Thursday 1805
The morning fare after a beautifull night, the nativs approached us
this morning with great caution. our two old chiefs expressed a desire
to return to their band from this place, Saying "that they Could be of
no further Service to us, as their nation extended no further down the
river than those falls, and as the nation below had expressed hostile
intentions against us, would Certainly kill them; perticularly as They
had been at war with each other;" we requested them to Stay with us two
nights longer, and we would See the nation below and make a peace
between them, they replied they "were anxious to return and See our
horses" we insisted on their Staying with us two nights longer to which
they agreed; our views were to detain those Chiefs with us untill we
Should pass the next falls, which we were told was verry bad, and at no
great distance below, that they might inform us of any designs of the
nativs, and if possible to bring about a peace between them and the
tribes below.
The first pitch of this falls is 20 feet perpendicular, then passing
thro a narrow Chanel for 1 mile to a rapid of about 18 feet fall below
which the water has no perceptable fall but verry rapid See Sketch No.
1. It may be proper here to remark that from Some obstruction below,
the cause of which we have not yet learned, the water in high fluds
(which are in the Spring) rise below these falls nearly to a leavel
with the water above the falls; the marks of which can be plainly
trac'd around the falls. at that Stage of the water the Salmon must
pass up which abounds in Such great numbers above- below those falls
are Salmon trout and great numbers of the heads of a Species of trout
Smaller than the Salmon. those fish they catch out of the Salmon
Season, and are at this time in the act of burrying those which they
had drid for winter food. the mode of buring those fish is in holes of
various Sizes, lined with Straw on which they lay fish Skins in which
they inclose the fish which is laid verry close, and then Covered with
earth of about 12 or 15 inches thick. Capt Lewis and three men crossed
the river and on the opposit Side to view the falls which he had not
yet taken a full view of- At 9 oClock a.m. I Set out with the party and
proceeded on down a rapid Stream of about 400 yards wide at 21/2 miles
the river widened into a large bason to the Stard. Side on which there
is five Lodges of Indians. here a tremendious black rock Presented
itself high and Steep appearing to choke up the river nor could I See
where the water passed further than the Current was drawn with great
velocity to the Lard Side of this rock at which place I heard a great
roreing. I landed at the Lodges and the natives went with me to the top
of this rock which makes from the Stard. Side; from the top of which I
could See the dificuelties we had to pass for Several miles below; at
this place the water of this great river is compressed into a Chanel
between two rocks not exceeding forty five yards wide and continues for
a 1/4 of a mile when it again widens to 200 yards and continues this
width for about 2 miles when it is again intersepted by rocks. This
obstruction in the river accounts for the water in high floods riseing
to Such a hite at the last falls. The whole of the Current of this
great river must at all Stages pass thro this narrow chanel of 45 yards
wide. as the portage of our canoes over this high rock would be
impossible with our Strength, and the only danger in passing thro those
narrows was the whorls and Swills arriseing from the Compression of the
water, and which I thought (as also our principal watermen Peter
Crusat) by good Stearing we could pass down Safe, accordingly I detur
mined to pass through this place notwithstanding the horrid appearance
of this agitated gut Swelling, boiling & whorling in every direction
(which from the top of the rock did not appear as bad as when I was in
it;) however we passed Safe to the astonishment of all the Inds. of the
last Lodges who viewed us from the top of the rock. passed one Lodge
below this rock and halted on the Stard. Side to view a verry bad
place, the Current divided by 2 Islands of rocks the lower of them
large and in the middle of the river, this place being verry bad I Sent
by land all the men who could not Swim and Such articles as was most
valuable to us Such as papers Guns & amunition, and proceeded down with
the Canoes two at a time to a village of 20 wood housies in a Deep bend
to the Stard. Side below which a rugid black rock about 20 feet biter
than the Common high fluds of the river with Several dry Chapels which
appeared to Choke the river up quite across; this I took to be the 2d
falls or the place the nativs above call timm, The nativs of this
village reived me verry kindly, one of whome envited me into his house,
which I found to be large and comodious, and the first wooden houses in
which Indians have lived Since we left those in the vicinty of the
Illinois, they are scattered permiscuisly on a elivated Situation near
a mound of about 30 feet above the Common leavel, which mound has Some
remains of houses and has every appearance of being artificial- those
houses are about the Same Shape Size and form 20 feet wide and 30 feet
long with one Dore raised 18 Inches above ground, they are 291/2 inches
high & 14 wide, forming in a half Circle above those houses were Sunk
into the earth Six feet, the roofs of them was Supported by a ridge
pole resting on three Strong pieces of Split timber thro one of which
the dore was cut that and the walls the top of which was just above
ground Suported a certain number of Spars which are Covered with the
Bark of the white Ceadar, or Arber Vitea; and the whole attached and
Secured by the fibers of the Cedar. the eaves at or near the earth, the
gable ends and Side walls are Secured with Split boards which is
Seported on iner Side with Strong pieces of timber under the eves &c.
to keep those pieces errect & the earth from without pressing in the
boards, Suported by Strong posts at the Corners to which those poles
were attached to give aditional Strength, Small openings were left
above the ground, for the purpose, as I conjectured, of deschargeing
Their arrows at a besiegeing enimey; Light is admited Thro an opening
at top which also Serves for the Smoke to pass through. one half of
those houses is apropriated for the Storeing away Dried & pounded fish
which is the principal food The other part next the dore is the part
occupied by the nativs who have beds raised on either Side, with a fire
place in the center of this Space each house appeared to be occupied by
about three families; that part which is apropriated for fish was
crouded with that article, and a fiew baskets of burries- I dispatched
a Sufficent number of the good Swimers back for the 2 canoes above the
last rapid and with 2 men walked down three miles to examine the river
Over a bed of rocks, which the water at verry high fluds passes over,
on those rocks I Saw Several large Scaffols on which the Indians dry
fish; as this is out of Season the poles on which they dry those fish
are tied up verry Securely in large bundles and put upon the Scaffolds,
I counted 107 Stacks of dried pounded fish in different places on those
rocks which must have contained io,ooo w. of neet fish, The evening
being late I could not examine the river to my Satisfaction, the Chanel
is narrow and compressed for about 2 miles, when it widens into a deep
bason to the Stard. Side, & again contracts into a narrow chanel
divided by a rock I returned through a rockey open countrey infested
with pole-cats to the village where I met with Capt. Lewis the two old
Chiefs who accompanied us & the party & canoes who had all arrived
Safe; the Canoes haveing taken in Some water at the last rapids. here
we formed a Camp near the Village, The principal Chief from the nation
below with Several of his men visited us, and afforded a favourable
oppertunity of bringing about a Piece and good understanding between
this chief and his people and the two Chiefs who accompanied us which
we have the Satisfaction to Say we have accomplished, as we have every
reason to believe and that those two bands or nations are and will be
on the most friendly terms with each other. gave this Great Chief a
Medal and Some other articles, of which he was much pleased, Peter
Crusat played on the violin and the men danced which delighted the
nativs, who Shew every civility towards us. we Smoked with those people
untill late at night, when every one retired to rest.
[Clark, October 25, 1805]
October 25th Friday 1805
A Cold morning, we deturmined to attempt the Chanel after brackfast I
took down all the party below the bad places with a load & one Canoe
passed well, a 2d passed well I had men on the Shore with ropes to
throw in in Case any acidence happened at the Whirl &c- the Inds on the
rocks veiwing us the 3rd Canoe nearly filled with water we got her Safe
to Shore. The last Canoe Came over well which to me was truly
gratifying Set out and had not passed 2 mils before 3 Canoes run
against a rock in the river with great force no damg. met with a 2d
Chief of the nation from hunting, we Smoked with him and his party and
gave a medal of The Small Size & Set out passed great numbers of rocks,
good water and Came to at a high point of rocks below the mouth of a
Creek which falls in on the Lard Side and head up towards the high Snow
mountain to the S W. this Creek is 20 yards wide and has Some beaver
Signs at its mouth river about 1/2 a mile wide and Crouded with Sea
otters, & drum was Seen this evening we took possession of a high Point
of rocks to defend our Selves in Case the threts of those Indians below
Should be put in execution against us. Sent out Some hunters to look if
any Signs of game, one man killed a Small deer & Several others Seen I
killed a goose, and Suped hartily on venison & goose. Camped on the
rock guard under the hill.
[Clark, October 25, 1805]
October 25th Friday 1805
a cool morning Capt Lewis and my Self walked down to See the place the
Indians pointed out as the worst place in passing through the gut,
which we found difficuelt of passing without great danger, but as the
portage was impractiable with our large Canoes, we Concluded to Make a
portage of our most valuable articles and run the canoes thro
accordingly on our return divided the party Some to take over the
Canoes, and others to take our Stores across a portage of a mile to a
place on the Chanel below this bad whorl & Suck, with Some others I had
fixed on the Chanel with roapes to throw out to any who Should
unfortunately meet with difficuelty in passing through; great number of
Indians viewing us from the high rocks under which we had to pass, the
3 firt Canoes passed thro very well, the 4th nearly filled with water,
the last passed through by takeing in a little water, thus Safely below
what I conceved to be the worst part of this Chanel, felt my Self
extreamly gratified and pleased. we loaded the Canoes & Set out, and
had not proceeded, more than two mile before the unfortunate Canoe
which filled crossing the bad place above, run against a rock and was
in great danger of being lost, This Chanel is through a hard rough
black rock, from 50-100 yards wide. Swelling and boiling in a most
tremendious maner Several places on which the Indians inform me they
take the Salmon as fast as they wish; we passed through a deep bason to
the Stard Side of 1 mile below which the River narrows and divided by a
rock The Curent we found quit jentle, here we met with our two old
Chiefs who had been to a village below to Smoke a friendly pipe, and at
this place they met the Cheif & party from the village above on his
return from hunting all of whome were then crossing over their horses,
we landed to Smoke a pipe with this Chief whome we found to be a bold
pleasing looking man of about 50 years of age dressd. in a war jacket a
cap Legins & mockersons. he gave us Some meat of which he had but
little and informed us he in his rout met with a war party of Snake
Indians from the great river of the S. E. which falls in a few miles
above and had a fight. we gave this Chief a Medal, &c. a parting Smoke
with our two faithful friends the Chiefs who accompanied us from the
head of the river, (who had purchased a horse each with 2 robes and
intended to return on horse back) we proceeded on down the water fine,
rocks in every derection for a fiew miles when the river widens and
becoms a butifull jentle Stream of about half a mile wide, Great
numbers of the Sea Orter about those narrows and both below and above.
we Came too, under a high point of rocks on the Lard. Side below a
creek of 20 yards wide and much water, as it was necessary to make Some
Selestial observations we formed our Camp on the top of a high point of
rocks, which forms a kind of fortification in the Point between the
river & Creek, with a boat guard, this Situation we Concieve well
Calculated for defence, and Conveniant to hunt under the foots of the
mountain to the West & S. W. where timber of different kinds grows, and
appears to be handsom Coverts for the Deer, in oke woods, Sent out
hunters to examine for game G. D. Killed a Small Deer & other Saw much
Sign, I killed a goose in the creek which was verry fat- one of the
guard saw a Drum fish to day as he Conceved our Situation well
Calculated to defend our Selves from any designs of the natives, Should
They be enclined to attack us.
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