Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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The Houses or Lodges of the tribes of the main Columbia river is of
large mats made of rushes, Those houses are from 15 to 60 feet in
length generally of an Oblong Squar form, Suported by poles on forks in
the iner Side, Six feet high, the top is covered also with mats
leaveing a Seperation in the whole length of about 12 or 15 inches
wide, left for the purpose of admitting light and for the Smok of the
fire to pass which is made in the middle of the house.- The roughfs are
nearly flat, which proves to me that rains are not common in this open
Countrey
Those people appeare of a mild disposition and friendly disposedThey
have in their huts independant of their nets gigs & fishing tackling
each bows & large quivers of arrows on which they use flint Spikes.
Theire ammusements are Similar to those of the Missouri. they are not
beggerley and receive what is given them with much joy.
I saw but flew horses they appeared make but little use of those
animals principally useing Canoes for their uses of procureing food &c.
[Clark, October 18, 1805]
October 18th Friday 1805
a cold morning faire & wind from S E Several Heath hens or large
Pheasents lit near us & the men killed Six of them.
Took one altitude of the Suns upper Limb 28° 22' 15" at h m s 8 1 24 A.M.
Several Indian Canoes Come down & joind those with us, made a Second
Chief by giveing a meadel & wampom I also gave a String of wampom to
the old Chief who came down with us and informed the Indians of our
views and intentions in a council
Measured the width of the Columbia River, from the Point across to a
Point of view is S 22° W from the Point up the Columa to a Point of view
is N. 84° W. 148 poles, thence across to the 1st point of view is S 281/2
E
Measured the width of Ki moo e nim River, from the Point across to an
object on the opposit side is N. 411/2 E from the Point up the river is
N. 8 E. 82 poles thence accross to the Point of view is N. 79° East
Distance across the Columbia 9603/4 yds water
Distance across the Ki-moo-e nim 575 yds water
Names of this nation above the mouth of the Ki-moo-e-nim is So-Kulk
Perced noses The Names of the nation on the Kimoenim River is
Chopun-nish Piercd noses at the Prarie the name of a nation at the
Second forks of the Tape tele River, or Nocktock fork Chim-na-pum, Some
of which reside with the So kulkc above this-at and a few miles
distance,- 4 men in a Canoe come up from below Stayed a fiew minits and
returned.
Took a meridian altitude 68° 57' 30" the Suns upper Limb. The Lattitudes
produced is 46° 15' 13 9/10" North, Capt Lewis took a vocabillary of the
So kulk or Pierced noses Language and Chim-nd-pum Language whic is in
Some words different but orriginally the Same people The Great Chief
Cuts-Sa.h nim gave me a Sketch of the rivers & Tribes above on the
great river & its waters on which he put great numbers of villages of
his nation & friends, as noted on the Sketch
The fish being very bad those which was offerd to us we had every
reason to believe was taken up on the Shore dead, we thought proper not
to purchase any, we purchased forty dogs for which we gave articles of
little value, Such as beeds, bell, & thimbles, of which they appeard
verry fond, at 4 OClock we Set out down the Great Columbia accompand by
our two old Chiefs, one young man wished to accompany us, but we had no
room for more, & he could be of no Service to us
The Great Chief Continued with us untill our departure.
we Encamped a little below & opsd. the lower point of the Island on the
Lard. Side no wood to be found we were obliged to make use Small drid
willows to Cook- our old Chief informed us that the great Chief of all
the nations about lived at the 9 Lodges above and wished us to land &c.
he Said he would go up and Call him over they went up and did not
return untill late at night, about 20 came down & built a fire above
and Stayed all night. The chief brought a basket of mashed berries.
[Clark, October 18, 1805]
October 18th Friday 1805
This morning Cool and fare wind from the S. E. Six of the large Prarie
cock killed this morning. Several canoes of Indians Came down and
joined those with us, we had a council with those in which we informed
of our friendly intentions towards them and all other of our red
children; of our wish to make a piece between all of our red Children
in this quarter &c. &c. this was conveyed by Signs thro our 2 Chiefs
who accompanied us, and was understood, we made a 2d Chief and gave
Strings of wompom to them all in remembrance of what we Said- four men
in a Canoe came up from a large encampment on an Island in the River
about 8 miles below, they delayed but a fiew minits and returned,
without Speaking a word to us.
The Great Chief and one of the Chim-na pum nation drew me a Sketch of
the Columbia above and the tribes of his nation, living on the bank,
and its waters, and the Tape tett river which falls in 18 miles above
on the westerly side See Sketch below for the number of villages and
nations &c. &c.
We thought it necessary to lay in a Store of Provisions for our voyage,
and the fish being out of Season, we purchased forty dogs for which we
gave articles of little value, Such as bells, thimbles, knitting pins,
brass wire & a few beeds all of which they appeared well Satisfied and
pleased.
every thing being arranged we took in our Two Chiefs, and Set out on
the great Columbia river, haveing left our guide and the two young men
two of them enclined not to proceed on any further, and the 3rd could
be of no Service to us as he did not know the river below
Took our leave of the Chiefs and all those about us and proceeded on
down the great Columbia river passed a large Island at 8 miles about 3
miles in length, a Island on the Stard. Side the upper point of which
is opposit the center of the last mentioned Island and reaches 31/2
miles below the 1st. Island and opposit to this near the middle of the
river nine Lodges are Situated on the upper point at a rapid which is
between the lower point of the 1st Island and upper point of this;
great numbers of Indians appeared to be on this Island, and emence
quantites of fish Scaffold we landed a few minits to view a rapid which
Commenced at the lower point, passd this rapid which was verry bad
between 2 Small Islands two Still Smaller near the Lard. Side, at this
rapid on the Stard. Side is 2 Lodges of Indians Drying fish, at 21/2
miles lower and 141/2 below the point passed an Island Close under the
Stard. Side on which was 2 Lodges of Indians drying fish on Scaffolds
as above at 16 miles from the point the river passesinto the range of
high Countrey at which place the rocks project into the river from the
high clifts which is on the Lard. Side about 2/3 of the way across and
those of the Stard Side about the Same distance, the Countrey rises
here about 200 feet above The water and is bordered with black rugid
rocks, at the Commencement of this high Countrey on Lard Side a Small
riverlet falls in which appears to passed under the high County in its
whole cose Saw a mountain bearing S. W. Conocal form Covered with Snow.
passed 4 Islands, at the upper point of the 3rd is a rapid, on this
Island is two Lodges of Indians, drying fish, on the fourth Island
Close under the Stard. Side is nine large Lodges of Indians Drying fish
on Scaffolds as above at this place we were called to land, as it was
near night and no appearance of wood, we proceeded on about 2 miles
lower to Some willows, at which place we observed a drift log formed a
Camp on the Lard Side under a high hill nearly opposit to five Lodges
of Indians; Soon after we landed, our old Chiefs informed us that the
large camp above "was the Camp of the 1st Chief of all the tribes in
this quarter, and that he had called to us to land and Stay all night
with him, that he had plenty of wood for us &" This would have been
agreeable to us if it had have been understood perticelarly as we were
compelled to Use drid willows for fuel for the purpose of cooking, we
requested the old Chiefs to walk up on the Side we had landed and call
to the Chief to come down and Stay with us all night which they did;
late at night the Chief came down accompanied by 20 men, and formed a
Camp a Short distance above, the chief brought with him a large basket
of mashed berries which he left at our Lodge as a present. I saw on the
main land opposit those Lodges a number of horses feeding, we made 21
miles to day.
[Clark, October 19, 1805]
October 19th Saturday, The Great Chief 2d Chief and a Chief of a band
below Came and Smoked with us we gave a Meadel a String of Wampom &
handkerchef to the Great Chief by name Yel-leppit The 2d Chief we gave
a String of wampom, his name is ____ The 3d who lives below a String of
Wampom his name I did not learn. the Chief requested us to Stay untill
12 we excused our Selves and Set out at 9 oClock
P. Crusat played on the Violin which pleasd and astonished those reches
who are badly Clad, 3/4 with robes not half large enough to cover them,
they are homeley high Cheeks, and but fiew orniments. I Suped on the
Crane which I killed to day.
[Clark, October 19, 1805]
October 19th Saturday 1805
The great chief Yel-lep-pit two other chiefs, and a Chief of Band below
presented themselves to us verry early this morning. we Smoked with
them, enformed them as we had all others above as well as we Could by
Signs of our friendly intentions towards our red children Perticular
those who opened their ears to our Councils. we gave a Medal, a
Handkercheif & a String of Wompom to Yelleppit and a String of wompom
to each of the others. Yelleppit is a bold handsom Indian, with a
dignified countenance about 35 years of age, about 5 feet 8 inches high
and well perpotiond. he requested us to delay untill the Middle of the
day, that his people might Come down and See us, we excused our Selves
and promised to Stay with him one or 2 days on our return which
appeared to Satisfy him; great numbers of Indians Came down in Canoes
to view us before we Set out which was not untill 9 oClock A M. we
proceeded on passed a Island, close under the Lard Side about Six miles
in length opposit to the lower point of which two Isds. are situated on
one of which five Lodges vacent & Saffolds drying fish at the upper
point of this Island Swift water. a Short distance below passed two
Islands; one near the middle of the river on which is Seven lodges of
Indians drying fish, at our approach they hid themselves in their
Lodges and not one was to be seen untill we passed, they then Came out
in greater numbers than is common in Lodges of their Size, it is
probable that, the inhabitants of the 5 Lodges above had in a fright
left their lodges and decended to this place to defend them Selves if
attackted there being a bad rapid opposit the Island thro which we had
to pass prevented our landing on this Island and passifying those
people, about four miles below this fritened Island we arrived at the
head of a verry bad rapid, we came too on the Lard Side to view the
rapid before we would venter to run it, as the Chanel appeared to be
close under the oppd. Shore, and it would be necessary to liten our
canoe, I deturmined to walk down on the Lard Side, with the 2 Chiefs
the interpreter & his woman, and derected the Small canoe to prcede
down on the Lard Side to the foot of the rapid which was about 2 miles
in length I Sent on the Indian Chiefs &c. down and I assended a high
clift about 200 feet above the water from the top of which is a leavel
plain extending up the river and off for a great extent, at this place
the Countrey becoms low on each Side of the river, and affords a
prospect of the river and countrey below for great extent both to the
right and left; from this place I descovered a high mountain of emence
hight covered with Snow, this must be one of the mountains laid down by
Vancouver, as Seen from the mouth of the Columbia River, from the
Course which it bears which is West I take it to be Mt. St. Helens,
destant 156 miles a range of mountains in the Derection crossing, a
conacal mountain S. W. toped with Snow This rapid I observed as I
passed opposit to it to be verry bad interseped with high rock and
Small rockey Islands, here I observed banks of Muscle Shells banked up
in the river in Several places, I Delayed at the foot of the rapid
about 2 hours for the Canoes which I Could See met with much dificuelty
in passing down the rapid on the oposit Side maney places the men were
obliged to get into the water and haul the canoes over Sholes- while
Setting on a rock wateing for Capt Lewis I Shot a Crain which was
flying over of the common kind. I observed a great number of Lodges on
the opposit Side at Some distance below and Several Indians on the
opposit bank passing up to where Capt. Lewis was with the Canoes,
others I Saw on a knob nearly opposit to me at which place they delayed
but a Short time before they returned to their Lodges as fast as they
could run, I was fearfull that those people might not be informed of
us, I deturmined to take the little Canoe which was with me and proceed
with the three men in it to the Lodges, on my aproach not one person
was to be Seen except three men off in the plains, and they Sheared off
as I aproached near the Shore, I landed in front of five Lodges which
was at no great distance from each other, Saw no person the enteranc or
Dores of the Lodges wer Shut with the Same materials of which they were
built a mat, I approached one with a pipe in my hand entered a lodge
which was the nearest to me found 32 persons men, women and a few
children Setting permiscuesly in the Lodg, in the greatest agutation,
Some crying and ringing there hands, others hanging their heads. I gave
my hand to them all and made Signs of my friendly dispotion and offered
the men my pipe to Smok and distributed a fiew Small articles which I
had in my pockets,-this measure passified those distressed people verry
much, I then Sent one man into each lodge and entered a Second myself
the inhabitants of which I found more fritened than those of the first
lodge I destributed Sundrey Small articles amongst them, and Smoked
with the men, I then entered the third 4h & fifth Lodge which I found
Somewhat passified, the three men, Drewer Jo. & R. Fields, haveing
useed everey means in their power to convince them of our friendly
disposition to them, I then Set my Self on a rock and made Signs to the
men to come and Smoke with me not one Come out untill the Canoes
arrived with the 2 Chiefs, one of whom spoke aloud, and as was their
Custom to all we had passed the Indians came out & Set by me and Smoked
They said we came from the clouds &c &c and were not men &c. &c. this
time Capt. Lewis came down with the Canoes rear in which the Indian, as
Soon as they Saw the Squar wife of the interperters they pointed to her
and informed those who continued yet in the Same position I first found
them, they imediately all came out and appeared to assume new life, the
sight of This Indian woman, wife to one of our interprs. confirmed
those people of our friendly intentions, as no woman ever accompanies a
war party of Indians in this quarter- Capt Lewis joined us and we
Smoked with those people in the greatest friendship, dureing which time
one of our Old Chiefs informed them who we were from whence we Came and
where we were going giveing them a friendly account of us, those people
do not Speak prosisely the Same language of those above but understand
them, I Saw Several Horses and persons on hors back in the plains maney
of the men womin and children Came up from the Lodges below; all of
them appeared pleased to See us, we traded some fiew articles for fish
and berries, Dined, and proceeded on passed a Small rapid and 15 Lodges
below the five, and Encamped below an Island Close under the Lard Side,
nearly opposit to 24 Lodges on an Island near the middle of the river,
and the Main Stard Shor Soon after we landed which was at a fiew willow
trees about 100 Indians Came from the different Lodges, and a number of
them brought wood which they gave us, we Smoked with all of them, and
two of our Party Peter Crusat & Gibson played on the violin which
delighted them greatly, we gave to the principal man a String of wompon
treated them kindly for which they appeared greatfull, This Tribe can
raise about 350 men their Dress are Similar to those at the fork except
their robes are Smaller and do not reach lower than the waste and 3/4
of them have Scercely any robes at all, the women have only a Small
pece of a robe which Covers their Sholders neck and reaching down
behind to their wastes, with a tite piece of leather about the waste,
the brests are large and hang down verry low illy Shaped, high Cheeks
flattened heads, & have but fiew orniments, they are all employed in
fishing and drying fish of which they have great quantites on their
Scaffolds, their habits customs &c. I could not lern. I killed a Duck
that with the Crain afforded us a good Supper. the Indians continued
all night at our fires
This day we made 36 miles.
[Clark, October 20, 1805]
October 20th 1805 Sunday
a very cold morning wind S. W. about 100 Indians Came over this morning
to See us, after a Smoke, a brackfast on Dogs flesh we Set out. about
350 men
Killed 2 large speckle guts 4 Duck in Malade Small ducks the flavour of
which much resembles the Canvis back no timber of any kind on the
river, we Saw in the last Lodges acorns of the white oake which the
Inds. inform they precure above the falls The men are badly dressed,
Some have scarlet & blue cloth robes. one has a Salors jacket, The
women have a Short indiferent Shirt, a Short robe of Deer or Goat
Skins, & a Small Skin which they fastend. tite around their bodies &
fastend. between the legs to hide the
[Clark, October 20, 1805]
October 20th Sunday 1805
A cool morning wind S. W. we concluded to delay untill after brackfast
which we were obliged to make on the flesh of dog. after brackfast we
gave all the Indian men Smoke, and we Set out leaveing about 200 of the
nativs at our Encampment; passd. three Indian Lodges on the Lard Side a
little below our Camp which lodges I did not discover last evening,
passed a rapid at Seven miles one at a Short distance below we passed a
verry bad rapid, a chane of rocks makeing from the Stard. Side and
nearly Chokeing the river up entirely with hugh black rocks, an Island
below close under the Stard. Side on which was four Lodges of Indians
drying-fish,- here I Saw a great number of pelicons on the wing, and
black Comerants. at one oClock we landed on the lower point of an
Island at Some Indian Lodges, a large Island on the Stard Side nearly
opposit and a Small one a little below on the Lard Side on those three
Island I counted Seventeen Indian Lodges, those people are in every
respect like those above, prepareing fish for theire winter consumption
here we purchased a fiew indifferent Dried fish & a fiew berries on
which we dined-(On the upper part of this Island we discovered an
Indian vault) our curiosity induced us to examine the methot those
nativs practicd in diposeing the dead, the Vaut was made by broad poads
and pieces of Canoes leaning on a ridge pole which was Suported by 2
forks Set in the ground Six feet in hight in an easterly and westerly
direction and about 60 feet in length, and 12 feet wide, in it I
observed great numbers of humane bones of every description
perticularly in a pile near the Center of the vault, on the East End 21
Scul bomes forming a circle on Mats-; in the Westerley part of the
Vault appeared to be appropriated for those of more resent death, as
many of the bodies of the deceased raped up in leather robes lay on
board covered with mats, &c we observed, independant of the canoes
which Served as a Covering, fishing nets of various kinds, Baskets of
different Sizes, wooden boles, robes Skins, trenchers, and various Kind
of trinkets, in and Suspended on the ends of the pieces forming the
vault; we also Saw the Skeletons of Several Horses at the vault & great
number of bones about it, which Convinced me that those animals were
Sacrefised as well as the above articles to the Deceased.) after diner
we proceeded on to a bad rapid at the lower point of a Small Island on
which four Lodges of Indians were Situated drying fish; here the high
countrey Commences again on the Stard. Side leaveing a vallie of 40
miles in width, from the mustle Shel rapid. examined and passed this
rapid close to the Island at 8 miles lower passed a large Island near
the middle of the river a brook on the Stard. Side and 11 Islds. all in
view of each other below, a riverlit falls in on the Lard. Side behind
a Small Island a Small rapid below. The Star Side is high rugid hills,
the Lard. Side a low plain and not a tree to be Seen in any Direction
except a fiew Small willow bushes which are Scattered partially on the
Sides of the bank
The river to day is about 1/4 of a mile in width; this evening the
Countrey on the Lard. Side rises to the hight of that on the Starboard
Side, and is wavering- we made 42 miles to day; the current much more
uniform than yesterday or the day before. Killed 2 Speckle guls Severl.
ducks of a delicious flavour.
[Clark, October 21, 1805]
October 21st 1805 Monday
a verry Cold morning we Set out early wind from the S W. we Could not
Cook brakfast before we embarked as usial for the want of wood or
Something to burn.-
[Clark, October 21, 1805]
October 21st Monday 1805
A verry cool morning wind from the S. W. we Set out verry early and
proceeded on, last night we could not Collect more dry willows the only
fuel, than was barely Suffient to cook Supper, and not a Sufficency to
cook brackfast this morning, passd. a Small Island at 51/2 miles a
large one 8 miles in the middle of the river, Some rapid water at the
head and Eight Lodges of nativs opposit its Lower point on the Stard.
Side, we came too at those lodges, bought some wood and brackfast.
Those people recived us with great kindness, and examined us with much
attention, their employments custom Dress and appearance Similar to
those above; Speak the Same language, here we Saw two Scarlet and a
blue cloth blanket, also a Salors Jacket the Dress of the men of this
tribe only a Short robe of Deer or Goat Skins, and that of the womn is
a Short piece of Dressed Skin which fall from the neck So as to Cover
the front of the body as low as the waste, a Short robe, which is of
one Deer or antilope Skin, and a Hap, around their waste and Drawn tite
between their legs as before described, their orniments are but fiew,
and worn as those above.
we got from those people a fiew pounded rotes fish and Acorns of the
white oake, those Acorns they make use of as food, and inform us they
precure them of the nativs who live near the falls below which place
they all discribe by the term Timm at 2 miles lower passed a rapid,
large rocks Stringing into the river of large Size opposit to this
rapid on the Stard. Shore is Situated two Lodges of the nativs drying
fish here we halted a fiew minits to examine the rapid before we
entered it which was our constant Custom, and at all that was verry
dangerous put out all who could not Swim to walk around, after passing
this rapid we proceeded on passed anoothe rapid at 5 miles lower down,
above this rapid on five Lodges of Indians fishing &c. above this rapid
maney large rocks on each Side at Some distance from Shore, one mile
passed an Island Close to the Stard. Side, below which is two Lodge of
nativs, a little below is a bad rapid which is bad crouded with hugh
rocks Scattered in every Direction which renders the pasage verry
Difficuelt a little above this rapid on the Lard. Side emence piles of
rocks appears as if Sliped from the Clifts under which they lay, passed
great number of rocks in every direction Scattered in the river 5
Lodges a little below on the Stard. Side, and one lodge on an Island
near the Stard. Shore opposit to which is a verry bad rapid, thro which
we found much dificuelty in passing, the river is Crouded with rocks in
every direction, after Passing this dificult rapid to the mouth of a
Small river on the Larboard Side 40 yards wide descharges but little
water at this time, and appears to take its Sourse in the Open plains
to the S. E. from this place I proceved Some fiew Small pines on the
tops of the high hills and bushes in the hollars. imediately above &
below this little river comences a rapid which is crouded with large
rocks in every direction, the pasage both crooked and dificuelt, we
halted at a Lodge to examine those noumerous Islands of rock which apd.
to extend maney miles below,-. great numbs. of Indians came in Canoes
to View us at this place, after passing this rapid which we
accomplished without loss; winding through between the hugh rocks for
about 2 miles-. (from this rapid the Conocil mountain is S. W. which
the Indians inform me is not far to the left of the great falls; this I
call the Timm or falls mountain it is high and the top is covered with
Snow) imediately below the last rapids there is four Lodges of Indians
on the Stard. Side, proceeded on about two miles lower and landed and
encamped near five Lodges of nativs, drying fish those are the
relations of those at the Great falls, they are pore and have but
little wood which they bring up the river from the falls as they Say,
we purchased a little wood to cook our Dog meat and fish; those people
did not recive us at first with the same cordiality of those above,
they appeare to be the Same nation Speak the Same language with a
little curruption of maney words Dress and fish in the Same way, all of
whome have pierced noses and the men when Dressed ware a long taper'd
piece of Shell or beed put through the nose-this part of the river is
furnished with fine Springs which either rise high up the Sides of the
hills or on the bottom near the river and run into the river. the hills
are high and rugid a fiew scattering trees to be Seen on them either
Small pine or Scrubey white oke.
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135