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Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark

M >> Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark

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One Deer & Some Pheasants killed this morning, I shot 4 Pheasents of
the Common Kind except the taile was black. The road over the last
mountain was thick Steep & Stoney as usial, after passing the head of
Travelers rest Creek, the road was verry fine leavel open & firm Some
mountains in view to the S E & S W. Covered with Snow.

[Clark, September 14, 1805]
September 14th Thursday 1805
a Cloudy day in the Valies it rained and hailed, on the top of the
mountains Some Snow fell we Set out early and Crossed a high mountn on
the right of the Creek for 6 miles to the forks of the Glade Creek the
right hand fork which falls in is about the Size of the other, we
Crossed to the left Side at the foks, and Crossd a verry high Steep
mountain for 9 miles to a large fork from the left which appears to
head in the Snow toped mountains Southerley and S. E. we Crossd. Glade
Creek above its mouth, at a place the Tushepaws or Flat head Indians
have made 2 wears across to Catch Sammon and have but latterly left the
place I could see no fish, and the grass entirely eaten out by the
horses, we proceeded on 2 miles & Encamped opposit a Small Island at
the mouth of a branch on the right side of the river which is at this
place 80 yards wide, Swift and Stoney, here we wer compelled to kill a
Colt for our men & Selves to eat for the want of meat & we named the
South fork Colt killed Creek, and this river we Call Flathead River-
The Mountains which we passed today much worst than yesterday the last
excessively bad & Thickly Strowed with falling timber & Pine Spruc fur
Hackmatak & Tamerack, Steep & Stoney our men and horses much fatigued,
The rain ____

[Clark, September 15, 1805]
Wednesday Septr. 15th 1805
We set out early. the morning Cloudy and proceeded on Down the right
Side of River over Steep points rockey & buschey as usial for 4 miles
to an old Indian fishing place, here the road leaves the river to the
left and assends a mountain winding in every direction to get up the
Steep assents & to pass the emence quantity of falling timber which had
falling from dift. causes i e. fire & wind and has deprived the Greater
part of the Southerley Sides of this mountain of its gren timber, 4
miles up the mountain I found a Spring and halted for the rear to come
up and to let our horses rest & feed, about 2 hours the rear of the
party came up much fatigued & horses more So, Several horses Sliped and
roled down Steep hills which hurt them verry much The one which Carried
my desk & Small trunk Turned over & roled down a mountain for 40 yards
& lodged against a tree, broke the Desk the horse escaped and appeared
but little hurt Some others verry much hurt, from this point I observed
a range of high mountains Covered with Snow from S E. to S W with Their
top bald or void of timber. after two hours delay we proceeded on up
the mountain Steep & ruged as usial, more timber near the top, when we
arrived at the top As we Conceved we could find no water and Concluded
to Camp and make use of the Snow we found on the top to cook the remnt.
of our Colt & make our Supe, evening verry Cold and Cloudy. Two of our
horses gave out, pore and too much hurt to proceed on and left in the
rear- nothing killed to day except 2 Phests.

From this mountain I could observe high ruged mountains in every
direction as far as I could See. with the greatest exertion we Could
only make 12 miles up this mountain and encamped on the top of the
mountain near a Bank of old Snow about 3 feet deep lying on the
Northern Side of the mountain and in Small banks on the top & leavel
parts of the mountain, we melted the Snow to drink, and Cook our horse
flesh to eat.

[Clark, September 16, 1805]
Saturday Septr. 16th 1805
began to Snow about 3 hours before Day and Continud all day the Snow in
The morning 4 Inches deep on The old Snow, and by night we found it
from 6 to 8 Inches deep I walked in front to keep the road and found
great dificuelty in keeping it as in maney places the Snow had entirely
filled up the track, and obliged me to hunt Several minits for the
track at 12 oClock we halted on the top of the mountain to worm & dry
our Selves a little as well as to let our horses rest and graze a
little on Some long grass which I observed, (on) The South Steep hills
Side & falling timber Continue to day, and a thickly timbered Countrey
of 8 different kinds of pine, which are So covered with Snow, that in
passing thro them we are continually covered with Snow, I have been wet
and as cold in every part as I ever was in my life, indeed I was at one
time fearfull my feet would freeze in the thin mockersons which I wore,
after a Short delay in the middle of the Day, I took one man and
proceeded on as fast as I could about 6 miles to a Small branch passing
to the right, halted and built fires for the party agains their arrival
which was at Dusk verry cold and much fatigued we Encamped at this
Branch in a thickly timbered bottom which was Scercely large enough for
us to lie leavil, men all wet cold and hungary. Killed a Second Colt
which we all Suped hartily on and thought it fine meat.

I saw 4 Black tail Deer to day before we Set out which came up the
mountain and what is Singular Snaped 7 tims at a large buck. it is
Singular as my gun has a Steel frisen and never Snaped 7 times before
in examining her found the flint loose to describe the road of this day
would be a repitition of yesterday excpt the Snow which made it much
wors to proseed as we had in maney places to derect our Selves by the
appearence of the rubbings of the Packs against the trees which have
limbs quiet low and bending downwards

[Clark, September 17, 1805]
Sunday 17th Septr. 1805
Cloudy morning our horses much Scattered which detained us untill one
oClock P.M. at which time we Set out the falling Snow & Snow from the
trees which kept us wet all the after noon passed over Several high
ruged Knobs and Several dreans & Springs passing to the right, &
passing on the ridge devideing the waters of two Small rivers. road
excessively bad Snow on the Knobs, no Snow in the vallies Killed a fiew
Pheasents which was not Sufficient for our Supper which compelled us to
kill Something. a coalt being the most useless part of our Stock he
fell a Prey to our appetites. The after part of the day fare, we made
only 10 miles to day two horses fell & hurt themselves very much. we
Encamped on the top of a high Knob of the mountain at a run passing to
the left. we proceed on as yesterday, & with dificulty found the road

[Lewis, September 18, 1805]
Wednesday September 18th 1805.
Cap Clark set out this morning to go a head with six hunters. there
being no game in these mountains we concluded it would be better for
one of us to take the hunters and hurry on to the leavel country a head
and there hunt and provide some provision while the other remained with
and brought on the party the latter of these was my part; accordingly I
directed the horses to be gotten up early being determined to force my
march as much as the abilities of our horses would permit. the
negligence of one of the party Willard who had a spare horse not
attending to him and bringing him up last evening was the cause of our
detention this morning untill 1/2 after 8 A M when we set out. I sent
willard back to serch for his horse, and proceeded on with the party at
four in the evening he overtook us without the horse, we marched 18
miles this day and encamped on the side of a steep mountain; we
suffered for water this day passing one rivulet only; we wer fortunate
in finding water in a steep raviene about 1/2 maile from our camp. this
morning we finished the remainder of our last coult. we dined & suped
on a skant proportion of portable soupe, a few canesters of which, a
little bears oil and about 20 lbs. of candles form our stock of
provision, the only recources being our guns & packhorses. the first is
but a poor dependance in our present situation where there is nothing
upon earth exept ourselves and a few small pheasants, small grey
Squirrels, and a blue bird of the vulter kind about the size of a
turtle dove or jay bird. our rout lay along the ridge of a high
mountain course S. 20 W. 18 in. used the snow for cooking.

[Clark, September 18, 1805]
Monday 18th Septr. 1805
a fair morning cold I proceded on in advance with Six hunters to try
and find deer or Something to kill we passed over a countrey Similar to
the one of yesterday more falling timber passed Several runs & Springs
passing to the right from the top of a high part of the mountain at 20
miles I had a view of an emence Plain and leavel Countrey to the S W. &
West at a great distance a high mountain in advance beyond the Plain,
Saw but little Sign of deer and nothing else, much falling timber, made
32 miles and Encamped on a bold running Creek passing to the left which
I call Hungery Creek as at that place we had nothing to eate. I halted
only one hour to day to let our horses feed on Grass and rest

[Lewis, September 19, 1805]
Thursday September 19th 1805.
Set out this morning a little after sun rise and continued our rout
about the same course of yesterday or S. 20 W. for 6 miles when the
ridge terminated and we to our inexpressable joy discovered a large
tract of Prairie country lying to the S. W. and widening as it appeared
to extend to the W. through that plain the Indian informed us that the
Columbia river, in which we were in surch run. this plain appeared to
be about 60 Miles distant, but our guide assured us that we should
reach it's borders tomorrow the appearance of this country, our only
hope for subsistance greately revived the sperits of the party already
reduced and much weakened for the want of food. the country is thickly
covered with a very heavy growth of pine of which I have ennumerated 8
distinct species. after leaving the ridge we asscended and decended
several steep mountains in the distance of 6 miles further when we
struck a Creek about 15 yards wide our course being S. 35 W. we
continued our rout 6 miles along the side of this creek upwards passing
2 of it's branches which flowed in from the N. 1st at the place we
struck the creek and the other 3 miles further. the road was
excessively dangerous along this creek being a narrow rockey path
generally on the side of steep precipice, from which in many places if
ether man or horse were precipitated they would inevitably be dashed in
pieces. Fraziers horse fell from this road in the evening, and roled
with his load near a hundred yards into the Creek. we all expected that
the horse was killed but to our astonishment when the load was taken
off him he arose to his feet & appeared to be but little injured, in 20
minutes he proceeded with his load. this was the most wonderfull escape
I ever witnessed, the hill down which he roled was almost perpendicular
and broken by large irregular and broken rocks. the course of this
Creek upwards due W. we encamped on the Stard. side of it in a little
raviene, having traveled 18 miles over a very bad road. we took a small
quantity of portable soup, and retired to rest much fatiegued. several
of the men are unwell of the disentary. brakings out, or irruptions of
the Skin, have also been common with us for some time.

[Clark, September 19, 1805]
Tuesday 19th Septr. 1805
Set out early proceeded on up the Creek passing through a Small glade
at 6 miles at which place we found a horse. I derected him killed and
hung up for the party after takeing a brackfast off for our Selves
which we thought fine after Brackfast proceed on up the Creek two miles
& left it to our right passed over a mountain, and the heads of branch
of hungary Creek, two high mountains, ridges and through much falling
timber (which caused our road of to day to be double the derect
distance on the Course) Struck a large Creek passing to our left which
I Kept down for 4 miles and left it to our left & passed over a
mountain bad falling timber to a Small Creek passing to our left and
Encamped. I killed 2 Pheasents, but fiew birds Blue jay, Small white
headed hawk, Some Crows & ravins & large hawks. road bad.

[Lewis, September 20, 1805]
Friday September 20th 1805.
This morning my attention was called to a species of bird which I had
never seen before. It was reather larger than a robbin, tho much it's
form and action. the colours were a blueish brown on the back the wings
and tale black, as wass a stripe above the croop 3/4 of an inch wide in
front of the neck, and two others of the same colour passed from it's
eyes back along the sides of the head. the top of the head, neck brest
and belley and butts of the wing were of a fine yellowish brick reed.
it was feeding on the buries of a species of shoemake or ash which
grows common in country & which I first observed on 2d of this month. I
have also observed two birds of a blue colour both of which I believe
to be of the haulk or vulter kind. the one of a blue shining colour
with a very high tuft of feathers on the head a long tale, it feeds on
flesh the beak and feet black. it's note is cha-ah, cha-ah. it is about
the size of a pigeon; and in shape and action resembles the jay bird.-
another bird of very similar genus, the note resembling the mewing of
the cat, with a white head and a light blue colour is also common, as
are a black species of woodpecker about the size of the lark woodpecker
Three species of Pheasants, a large black species, with some white
feathers irregularly scattered on the brest neck and belley a smaller
kind of a dark uniform colour with a red stripe above the eye, and a
brown and yellow species that a good deel resembles the phesant common
to the Atlantic States. we were detained this morning untill ten oclock
in consequence of not being enabled to collect our horses. we had
proceeded about 2 miles when we found the greater part of a horse which
Capt Clark had met with and killed for us. he informed me by note that
he should proceed as fast as possible to the leavel country which lay
to the S. W. of us, which we discovered from the hights of the
mountains on the 19th there he intended to hunt untill our arrival. at
one oclock we halted and made a hearty meal on our horse beef much to
the comfort of our hungry stomachs. here I larnt that one of the
Packhorses with his load was missing and immediately dispatched
Baptiest Lapage who had charge of him, to surch for him. he returned at
;3 OC. without the horse. The load of the horse was of considerable
value consisting of merchandize and all my stock of winter cloathing. I
therefore dispatched two of my best woodsmen in surch of him, and
proceeded with the party. Our rout lay through a thick forrest of large
pine the general course being S. 25 W. and distance about 15 miles. our
road was much obstructed by fallen timber particularly in the evening
we encamped on a ridge where ther was but little grass for our horses,
and at a distance from water. however we obtained as much as served our
culinary purposes and suped on our beef. the soil as you leave the
hights of the mountains becomes gradually more fertile. the land
through which we passed this evening is of an excellent quality tho
very broken, it is a dark grey soil. a grey free stone appearing in
large masses above the earth in many places. saw the hucklebury,
honeysuckle, and alder common to the Atlantic states, also a kind of
honeysuckle which bears a white bury and rises about 4 feet high not
common but to the western side of the rockey mountains. a growth which
resembles the choke cherry bears a black bury with a single stone of a
sweetish taste, it rises to the hight of 8 or 10 feet and grows in
thick clumps. the Arborvita is also common and grows to an immence
size, being from 2 to 6 feet in diameter.

[Clark, September 20, 1805]
Wednesday 20th September 1805
I Set out early and proceeded on through a Countrey as ruged as usial
passed over a low mountain into the forks of a large Creek which I kept
down 2 miles and assended a Steep mountain leaveing the Creek to our
left hand passed the head of Several dreans on a divideing ridge, and
at 12 miles decended the mountain to a leavel pine Countrey proceeded
on through a butifull Countrey for three miles to a Small Plain in
which I found maney Indian lodges, at the distance of 1 mile from the
lodges I met 3 boys, when they Saw me ran and hid themselves searched
found gave them Small pieces of ribin & Sent them forward to the
village a man Came out to meet me with ;great Caution & Conducted us to
a large Spacious Lodge which he told me (by Signs) was the Lodge of his
great Chief who had Set out 3 days previous with all the Warriers of
the nation to war on a South West derection & would return in 15 or 18
days. the fiew men that were left in the Village aged, great numbers of
women geathered around me with much apparent Signs of fear, and apr.
pleased they gave us a Small piece of Buffalow meat, Some dried Salmon
beries & roots in different States, Some round and much like an onion
which they call quamash the Bread or Cake is called Passhe-co Sweet, of
this they make bread & Supe they also gave us the bread made of this
root all of which we eate hartily, I gave them a fiew Small articles as
preasents, and proceeded on with a Chief to his Village 2 miles in the
Same Plain, where we were treated kindly in their way and continued
with them all night Those two Villages consist of about 30 double
lodges, but fiew men a number of women & children; They call themselves
Cho pun-nish or Pierced Noses; " their dialect appears verry different
from the Tushapaws altho origneally the Same people" They are darker
than the Tushapaws Their dress Similar, with more beads white & blue
principally, brass & Copper in different forms, Shells and ware their
haire in the Same way. they are large Portley men Small women & handsom
fetued Emence quantity of the quawmash or Pas-shi-co root gathered & in
piles about the plains, those roots grow much an onion in marshey
places the seed are in triangular Shell on the Stalk. they Sweat them
in the following manner i. e. dig a large hole 3 feet deep Cover the
bottom with Split wood on the top of which they lay Small Stones of
about 3 or 4 Inches thick, a Second layer of Splited wood & Set the
whole on fire which heats the Stones, after the fire is extinguished
they lay grass & mud mixed on the Stones, on that dry grass which
Supports the Pash-Shi-co root a thin Coat of the Same grass is laid on
the top, a Small fire is kept when necessary in the Center of the kite
&c.

I find myself verry unwell all the evening from eateing the fish &
roots too freely. Sent out the hunters they killed nothing Saw Some
Signs of deer.

[Lewis, September 21, 1805]
Saturday September 21st 1805.
We were detained this morning untill 11 OCk. in consequence of not
being able to collect our horses. we then set out and proceeded along
the ridge on which we had encamped, leaving which at 11/2 we passed a
large creek runing to the left just above it's junction with another
which run parrallel with and on the left of our road before we struck
the creek; through the level wide and heavy timbered bottom of this
creek we proceeded about 21/2 miles when bearing to the right we passed
a broken country heavily timbered great quantities of which had fallen
and so obstructed our road that it was almost impracticable to proceed
in many places. though these hills we proceeded about 5 Ms. when we
passed a small creek on which Capt Clark encamped on the 19th passing
this creek we continued our rout 5 Ms thro a similar country when we
struck a large creek at the forks, passed the Northen branch and
continued down it on the West side 1 mile and encamped in a small open
bottom where there was tolerable food for our horses. I directed the
horses to be hubbled to prevent delay in the morning being determined
to make a forced march tomorrow in order to reach if possible the open
country. we killed a few Pheasants, and I killd a prarie woolf which
together with the ballance of our horse beef and some crawfish which we
obtained in the creek enabled us to make one more hearty meal, not
knowing where the next was to be found. the Arborvita increases in
quantity and size. I saw several sticks today large enough to form
eligant perogues of at least 45 feet in length.- I find myself growing
weak for the want of food and most of the men complain of a similar
deficiency and have fallen off very much. the general course of this
day S 30 W 15M.

[Clark, September 21, 1805]
Septr. 21st Saturday 1805
a fine morning Sent out all the hunters early in different directions
to Kill Something and delayed with the Indians to prevent Suspicion &
to acquire as much information as possible. one of them Drew me a Chart
of the river & nations below informed of one falls below which the
white men lived from whome they got white beeds cloth &c. &c. The day
proved warm, 2 Chifs of Bands visited me to day- the hunters all
returned without any thing, I collected a horse load of roots & 3
Sammon & Sent R Fields with one Indian to meet Capt Lewis at 4 oClock
Set out with the other men to the river, passed thro a fine Pine
Country decended a Steep ruged hill verry long to a Small river which
comes from our left and I suppose it to be ____ River passed down the
river 2 miles on a Steep hill side at r r oClock P.M. arrived at a camp
of 5 Squars a boy & 2 Children those people were glad to See us & gave
us drid Sammon one had formerly been taken by the Minitarries of the
north & Seen white men, our guide called the Chief who was fishing on
the other Side of the river, whome I found a Cherfull man of about 65 I
gave him a Medal.

[Clark, September 21, 1805]
Thursday 21st Septr. 1805
A fine morning Sent out all the hunters in different directions to hunt
deer, I myself delayd with the Chief to prevent Suspission and to
Collect by Signs as much information as possible about the river and
Countrey in advance. The Cheif drew me a kind of chart of the river,
and informed me that a greater Cheif than himself was fishing at the
river half a days march from his village called the twisted hare, and
that the river forked a little below his Camp and at a long distance
below & below 2 large forks one from the left & the other from the
right the river passed thro'gh the mountains at which place was a great
fall of the water passing through the rocks, at those falls white
people lived from whome they preceured the white Beeds & Brass &c.
which the womin wore; a Chief of another band visit me to day and
Smoked a pipe, I gave my handkerchief & a Silver Cord with a little
Tobacco to those Chiefs, The hunters all return without any thing, I
purchased as much Provisions as I could with what fiew things I chaned
to have in my Pockets, Such a Salmon Bread roots & berries, & Sent one
man R. Fields with an Indian to meet Capt. Lewis, and at 4 oClock P M.
Set out to the river, met a man at dark on his way from the river to
the village, whome I hired and gave the neck handkerchief of one of the
men, to polit me to the Camp of the twisted hare we did not arrive at
the Camp of the Twisted hare but oppost, untill half past 11 oClock P
M. found at this Camp five Squars & 3 Children. my guide called to the
Chief who was Encamped with 2 others on a Small Island in the river, he
Soon joind me, I found him a Chearfull man with apparant Siencerity, I
gave him a medal &c. and Smoked untill 1 oClock a.m. and went to Sleep.
The Countrey from the mountains to the river hills is a leavel rich
butifull Pine Countrey badly watered, thinly timbered & covered with
grass- The weather verry worm after decending into the low Countrey,-
the river hills are verry high & Steep, Small bottoms to this little
river which is Flat head & is 160 yards wide and Sholey This river is
the one we killed the first Coalt on near a fishing were I am verry
Sick to day and puke which relive me.

[Lewis, September 22, 1805]
Sunday September 22cd 1805.
Notwithstanding my positive directions to hubble the horses last
evening one of the men neglected to comply. he plead ignorance of the
order. this neglect however detained us untill 1/2 after eleven OCk at
which time we renewed our march, our course being about west. we had
proceeded about two and a half miles when we met Reubin Fields one of
oure hunters, whom Capt. Clark had dispatched to meet us with some
dryed fish and roots that he had procured from a band of Indians, whose
lodges were about eight miles in advance. I ordered the party to halt
for the purpose of taking some refreshment. I divided the fish roots
and buries, and was happy to find a sufficiency to satisfy compleatly
all our appetites. Fields also killed a crow after refreshing ourselves
we proceeded to the village due West 71/2 Miles where we arrived at 5
OCk. in the afternoon our rout was through lands heavily timbered, the
larger wood entirely pine. the country except the last 3 miles was
broken and decending the pleasure I now felt in having tryumphed over
the rocky Mountains and decending once more to a level and fertile
country where there was every rational hope of finding a comfortable
subsistence for myself and party can be more readily conceived than
expressed, nor was the flattering prospect of the final success of the
expedition less pleasing. on our approach to the village which
consisted of eighteen lodges most of the women fled to the neighbouring
woods on horseback with their children, a circumstance I did not expect
as Capt. Clark had previously been with them and informed them of our
pacific intentions towards them and also the time at which we should
most probably arrive. the men seemed but little concerned, and several
of them came to meet us at a short distance from their lodges unarmed.

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