Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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The river Continue to fall a little- I observe great quantities of
Summer & fall Grapes, Berries & Wild roases on the banks- Deer is not
so plenty as usual, great Deel of Elk Sign. (Wind from S E)
[Clark, July 6, 1804]
6th July Friday. We Set out early this morning & Proceeded on (the
river falls Slowly) wind S. W) passed a Sand bar in 1st bend to the
right (1) passed a Small Island at the S. pt. a verry warm day (worthy
of remark that the water of this river or Some other Cause, I think
that the most Probable throws out a greater preposn. of Swet than I
could Suppose Could pass thro the humane body Those men that do not
work at all will wet a Shirt in a Few minits & those who work, the Swet
will run off in Streams) opposit the 3rd point passed a Prarie on the
S. S. Called Reeveys Prarie (fro a man of that name being Killed in it)
opposit this Prarie the river is Confined in a verry narrow Space
Crowded on S. S. by Sands which were moveing and difficuelt to pass.
the Hunts. Sent in 3 Deer Jurked on the 4th point of to day is a Small
Island & a Sand bar 2 miles out in the river, this is Called the Grand
Bend, or Grande de Tour, I walked on this Sand bar found it a light
Sand intersperced with Small Pebbles of various Kinds, also pit Coal of
an excellent quallity was lodged on the Sand, We camped on the L. S. at
a small creek a whiper will perched on the boat for a Short time, I
gave his name to the Creek
[Clark, July 6, 1804]
July 6th, Friday We Set out early this morning, wind from the S. W.
passed a large Sand bar in the 1st. bend to the right. (1) passed a
Small Island at the S. point opposit the 3rd point we passed a Prarie
on the S. S. Called Reeveys Prarie at this place the river is Confined
in a verry narrow Channel Crouded by a Sand bar from the L. Point This
Sand bar from the L. Point, this Sand bar is verry bad, at the 4th
Point from the S. S. is a verry extensive bar, at the Point of which is
a Small willow Island this is Called the Grand Detour or Great bend
I walked on this Sand bar and found the Sand was light, with Collection
of Small pebble, & some Pit Coal I observe that the men Swet more than
is Common from Some Cause, I think the Missouries water is the
principal Cause our hunters Sent in 3 Bucks today The river Still fall
a little
[Clark, July 7, 1804]
7th of July Satturday 1804 Set out early passed Some verry Swift water
on the L. S. which Compelled us to Draw up by the Cord. a verry warm
morning, passed a butifull Prarie on the right Side which extends back,
those Praries has much the appearance from the river of farms, Divided
by narrow Strips of woods those Strips of timber grows along the runs
which rise on the hill & pass to the river a Cleft above, one man sick
(Frasure) Struck with the Sun, Saw a large rat on the Side of the bank,
Killed a wolf on the Bank passed (2) a verry narrow part of the river,
all confined within 200 yards, a yellow bank above, passed a Small
willow Island on the S. point, (in Low water those Small Willow Islands
are joined to the Sand bars makeing out from the Points) a pond on the
S. S near the prarie we passed yesterday in which G D. Saw Several
young Swans we Came to and Camped on the L. S. and two men Sent out
last evening with the horses did not join us this evening agreeable to
orders- a hard wind with Some rain from the N, E at 7 oClock which
lasted half an hour, with thunder & lightning. river fall a little
[Clark, July 7, 1804]
July the 7th Satturday 1804 Set out early passed Some Swift water,
which obliged us to draw up by roapes, a Sand bare at the point opposit
a butifull Prarie on the S. Side Calld. (1) St. Michul, those Praries
on the river has verry much the appearence of farms from the river
Divided by narrow Strips of wood land, which wood land is Situatd. on
the runs leading to the river. passed a Bluff of yellow Clay above the
Prarie. Saw a large rat on the bank. Killed a Wolf. at 4 oClock pass a
Verry narrow part of the river water Confd. in a bead not more than 200
yards wide at this place the Current runs against the L. Side. no Sand
to Confine the Current on the S. S. passed a Small sand Island above
the Small Islds. Situated at the points, in low water form a part of
the Sand bars makeing out from those points
Incamped on the S. S. at 7 oClock a Violent Ghust of wind from the N.
E. with Some rain, which lasted half an hour (G D. informs me that he
Saw in a Pond on the S. S. which we passed yesterday; a number of young
Swans-,) one man verry Sick, Struck with the Sun, Capt. Lewis bled him
& gave Niter which has revived him much
[Clark, July 8, 1804]
8th of July Sunday Set out early this morning, the Sick man much
better, Serjt. Oddeway was waiting at a Creek on the S. S. below an
Island, passed (1) two Island on the S. S. and came to at the upper
point, G Drewyer went out R. Fields & Guterich, five men Sick to day
with a violent Head ake &c. and Several with Boils, we appoint a Cook
to each mess to take Charge of the Provisions. in Serjt. Pryor's =
Collens in Sjt. Ordway's Werner in Sergt. Floyd's Thompson, The french
men Killed a young Deer on the Bank, (2) passed up a narrow Channel of
about 80 or 100 yds wide about 5 miles to the mouth of Nadawa River
which corns in to this channel from the N W. and is abt. 70 yards wide
at its mouth ____ feet Deep and has a jentle Current, Perogues can
navagate this river near its head, which is between the Missourie & the
Grand River, passed up the gut 3/4 of a mile to the river at the head
of the Island & camped opposit the head of this Island is another
nearest the Middle R this Island Nadawa is the largest I have Seen,
formed by a Channel washing into the Nadawa river.- "8 or 10000 acrs"
[Clark, July 8, 1804]
July the 8th Sunday 1804
Set out early passed a Small Creek on the S. S. and two (1) Small
Islands on the S S. five men Sick to day with a violent head ake &c. we
made Some arrangements as to provisions & Messes, came to for Dinner at
the lower point of a very large Island Situated near the S. S. after a
delay of two hours we passed a narrow channel of 45 to 80 yds wide five
miles to the mouth of (3) Nkdawa River, This river Coms in from the
North and is navagable for Perogues Some distance. it is about 70 yards
wide a little above the mouth, at the mouth not So wide, the mud of the
Gut running out of the Missourie is thrown and Settles in the mouth
half a mile higher up this Channel or gut is the upper point of the
Said Island, This Island is Called Nadawa, & is the largest I have Seen
in the river, containing 7 or 8000 acres of Land Seldom overflowed we
Camped at the head of this Island on the S. S. opposit the head or our
Camp is a Small Island near the middle of the river, river Still
falling. our flank party did not join us this evening
[Lewis, July 8, 1804]
Detachment Orders
Nadawa Island July 8th 1804.-
In order to insure a prudent and regular use of all provisions issued
to the crew of the Batteaux in future, as also to provide for the equal
distribution of the same among the individuals of the several messes,
The Commanding Officers Do appoint the following persons to recieve,
cook, and take charges of the provisions which may from time to time be
issued to their respective messes, (viz) John B. Thompson to Sergt.
Floyd's mess,
William Warner to Sergt. Ordway's mess, and John Collins to Sergt.
Pryor's Mess.- These Superintendants of Provision, are held immediately
respon sible to the commanding Officers for a judicious consumption of
the provi sion which they recieve; they are to cook the same for their
several messes in due time, and in such manner as is most wholesome and
best calculated to afford the greatest proportion of nutriment; in
their mode of cooking they are to exercise their own judgment; they
shall allso point out what part, and what proportion of the mess
provisions are to be consumed at each stated meal (i. e.) morning, noon
and night; nor is any man at any time to take or consume any part of
the mess provisions without the privity, knowledge and consent of the
Superintendant. The superintendant is also held responsible for all the
cooking eutensels of his mess. in considera tion of the duties imposed
by this order on Thompson, Warner, and Collins, they will in future be
exempt from guard duty, tho they will still be held on the royster for
that duty, and their regular tour-shall be per formed by some one of
their rispective messes; they are exempted also from pitching the tents
of the mess, collecting firewood, and forks poles &c. for cooking and
drying such fresh meat as may be furnished them; those duties are to be
also performed by the other members of the mess.
M. Lewis
Wm. Clark
[Clark, July 9, 1804]
July the 9th Monday 1804 Sent one man back to the mouth of the River to
mark a tree, to let the party on Shore See that the Boat had passed the
river, Set out early passed (1) the head of the Island Situated in the
middle of the river a Sand bar at the head, (2) passed the mouth of a
Creek or Bayou on the S. S. leading from a large Pond of about three
miles in length, at 8 oClock it commenced raining, the wind changed
from N E. to S. W. (3) at 6 miles passed the mouth of a Small Creek on
the L. S. called Monters Creek, the river at this place is wide with a
Sand bar in the Middle, passed a place on the L. S. about 2 miles above
the Creek, where Several french men camped two years to hunt- (4)
passed a Island on the S S. of the river in a bend, opsd. a high Land
on the L. S. wind Shifted to the N. W. in the evining, opsd. this
Island, and on the L. S. Loup or Wolf River Coms in, this river is
about 60 yards Wide, but little water running at the mouth, this river
heads with the waters of the Kanzas, and has a perogue navigation Some
distance, it abounds with Beaver, Camped opposit the head of the Island
on the L. S. Saw a fire on the S. S. Supposedly the four flankers, to
be theire, Sent a perogue for them, the Patroon & Bowman of the Perogue
French, they returned & informed, that when they approached the fire,
it was put out, which caused them to return, this report causd. us to
look out Supposeing a pty. of Soux going to war, firierd the bow piec
to allarm & put on their guard the men on Shore everey thing in
readiness for Defence.
[Clark, July 9, 1804]
July 9th Monday 1804
one man Sent back to the river we passed last night to Blase a tree
with a view to notify the party on Shore of our passing Set out and
passed the head of the (1) Island which was Situated opposit to our
Camp last night a Sand bar at the head (2) opsd. this Island a Creek or
Bayaue Corns in from a large Pond on the Starboard Side, as our
flanking party Saw great numbers of Pike in this Pond, I have laid it
down with that name anex'd,v at 8 oClock the wind Shifted from the N, E
to S W and it commenced raining. (3) at Six miles passed the mouth of
Creek on the L. S. Called Monter's Creek, about two mile above is some
Cabins where our Bowman & Several frenchmen Campd. two years (4) passed
an Island on the S. S. in a Bend of the river opposit Some Clifts on
the L. S. the wind Shifted to the N W opposit this Island and on the L.
Side (Loup) or Wolf River Coms in, this river is about 60 yards wide
and heads with the waters of the Kansis, and is navagable for Perogues
"Some destance up" Camped at a point on the L. S. opposit the head of
the Island, our party was incamped on the Opposit Side, their not
answering our Signals Caused us to Suspect the persons Camped opposit
to us was a war party of Soux, we fired the Bow piece to alarm the
party on Shore, ailed prepared to oppose if attacted
[Clark, July 10, 1804]
July 10th Tuesday Set out this morning with a view to Land near the
fire Seen last night, & recornetre, but Soon discovered that our men
were at the fire, they were a Sleep early last evening, and from the
Course of the Wind which blew hard, their yells were not heard by party
in the perogue, a mistake altogether-. proceeded on, passed Prarie on
the upper Side of Woolf River, at 4 miles passed (1) a Small Creek L.
S. Called R. Pape this Creek is about 15 yds. Wide-and called after a
Spanierd who killed himself at the mouth. (2) Dined on an Island Called
de Selamen and delayed 3 hours, and proceeded on, opposit this Isld. on
the L. S. is a (3) butifull Bottom Prarie whuch will Contain about 2000
acres of Land covered with wild rye & wild Potatoes, gread numbers of
Goslings on the Banks & in the Ponds near the river, Capt Lewis Killed
two this evening, we came to & Camped for the night. at a point on the
S. S. opposit a yellow Clay Clift.- our men all getting well but much
fatigued, the river is on a Stand nether rise nor fall, The bottom on
the S. S. is verry extensive & thick. the Hills or high land is near
the river on the L. S. and but thinly timbered, back of those hills is
open plains.
[Clark, July 10, 1804]
July 10th Tuesday 1804
Set out early this morning and Crossd the river with a view to See who
the party was that Camped on the other Side, we Soon discovered them to
be our men,- proceeded on passed a Prarie on the L. S. at 4 miles
passed a Creek L. S Called (1) Pappie after a man who Killed himself at
its mouth, this Creek is 15 yds wide- (2) Dined on an Isld. Called de
Salamin Delayed 3 hours on this Island to recruit the men opposit on
the L. S. is a butifull bottom Plain of about 2000 acres (3) Covered
with wild rye & Potatoes, intermix't with the grass, we camped on the
S. S. opposit a yellow Clay Clift, Capt. Lewis Killed two young Gees or
Goslings this evening- The men of the party getting better, but much
fatigued- The river on a Stand- The bottom is verry extensive on the S.
S. and thickly intersperced with Vines The High Land approaches near
the river on the L. S. and well timbered next to the river, back of
those hills the Plains Commence.
[Clark, July 11, 1804]
July 11th Wednesday, Set out early proceeded on passed a Willow (1)
Island in a bend to the S. S. Sent out Dreweyer & Jo. Fields to hunt,
Back of this Island a creek corns in on the S. S. called by the Indians
Little Tarkio Creek I went on Shore above this Island on the S. S.
found the bottom Subject for overflow wet and verry thickly interwoven
with grape Vines- proceeded on at about 1/2 a miles from the river
about 3 ms. and observed fresh Sign of a horse, I prosueed the track,
with an expectation of finding a Camp of Indians on the river, when I
got to the river, I saw a horse on the Beech, this horse as appears was
left last winter by Some hunting party, probable the Othouez, I joined
the Boat on the Sand Island Situated opposit the mouth of the Ne Ma har
River, this river Coms in on the L. S. is about 80 yds Wide and
navagable for Perogues Some Distance up the praries Commnce above the
mouth and Continus on both Sides of this R Drewyer killed 6 Deer to day
J. Field one Several hunters Sent out up the Nemahar R
[Clark, July 11, 1804]
July 11th, Wednesday 1804
Set out early passed a Willow Island (1) in a bend on the S. S. back of
this Island a Creek Corns in Called by the Indians Tar-ki-o
I went on Shore above this Creek and walked up parrelel with the river
at ab ut half a mile distant, the bottom I found low & Subject to
overflow, Still further out, the under groth & vines wer So thick that
I could not get thro with ease after walking about three or 4 miles I
observed a fresh horse track where he had been feeding I turned my
course to the river and prosud the track and found him on a Sand beach
This horse Probably had been left by Some party of Otteaus hunters who
wintered or hunted in this quarter last fall or Wintr. I joined the
party on a large Sand Island imediately opposit the mouth of Ne Ma haw
River, at which place they had Camped, this Island is Sand about half
of it Covered with Small Willows of two different Kinds, one Narrow &
the other a Broad Leaf. Several hunters Sent out to day on both Sides
of the river, Seven Deer Killed to day. Drewyer Killd Six of them, made
Some Luner observations this evening.
[Clark, July 12, 1804]
July 12th Thursday Som hunters out on the S. S. those on the L. S. did
not return last night, our object in delaying here is to tak Some
Observations and rest the men who are much fatigued made Sundery
observations, after an early Brackfast I took five men and went up the
River Ne Ma har about three miles, to an open leavel part of an emence
prarie, at the Mouth of a Small Creek on the Lower Side, I went on
Shore, & passed thro the plain passed Several noles to the top of a
high artificial Noal from the top of this noal I had an emence,
extensive & pleaseing prospect, of the Countrey around, I could See the
meandering of the Little River for at least 10 miles winding thro a
meadow of 15 or 20000 acres of high bottom land covered with Grass
about 41/2 feet high, the high lands which rose irregularly, & were
toped with Mounds or antent Graves which is to me a Strong evidence of
this Countrey haveing been thickly Settled-.This River is about 80
yards wide with a gentle Current and heads up near the Parnee Village
on River Blue a branch of Kansas, a little timbered land near the mouth
for 1 mile above, only a fiew Trees, and thickets of Plumbs Cheres &c
are Seen on its banks the Creeks & little reveens makeing into the
river have also Some timber- I got grapes on the banks nearly ripe,
observed great quantities, of Grapes, plums Crab apls and a wild
Cherry, Growing like a Comn. Wild Cherry only larger & grows on a Small
bush, on the side of a clift Sand Stone 1/2 me. up & on Lower Side I
marked my name & day of the month near an Indian Mark or Image of
animals & a boat Tried Willard for Sleeping on his post, our hunters
killed some Deer, Saw Elk & Buffalow.
[Clark, July 12, 1804]
July 12th, Thursday 1804
Concluded to Delay here to day with a view of takeing equal altitudes &
makeing observations as well as refreshing our men who are much
fatigued- after an early Brackfast I with five men in a Perogue
assended the River Ne-Ma-haw about 2 miles to the mouth of a Small
Creek on the Lower Side, here I got out of the Perogue, after going to
Several Small Mounds in a leavel plain, I assended a hill on the Lower
Side, on this hill Several Artificial Mounds were raised, from the top
of the highest of those Mounds I had an extensive view of the
Serounding Plains, which afforded one of the most pleasing prospects I
ever beheld, under me a Butifull River of Clear water of about 80 yards
wide Meandering thro a leavel and extensive Meadow, as far as I could
See, the prospect Much enlivened by the fine Trees & Srubs which is
bordering the bank of the river, and the Creeks & runs falling into
it,-. The bottom land is covered with Grass of about 41/2 feet high,
and appears as leavel as a Smoth Surfice, the 2 bottom is also covered
with Grass and rich weeds & flours, interspersed with Copses of the
Osage Plumb. on the riseing lands, Small groves of trees are Seen, with
a numbers of Grapes and a Wild Cherry resembling the Common Wild
Cherry, only larger and grows on a Small bush on the tops of those
hills in every derection. I observed artifical mounds (or as I may more
justly term Graves) which to me is a Strong indication of this Country
being once Thickly Settled. (The Indians of the Missouris Still Keep up
the Custom of Burrying their dead on high ground) after a ramble of
about two miles about I returned to the perogue and decended down the
River, gathd. Som grapes nearly ripe, on a Sandstone Bluff about 1/4 of
a mile from its mouth on the Lower Side I observed Some Indian marks,
went to the rock which jutted over the water and marked my name & the
day of the month & year- This river heads near one of the Villages of
the Pania on the River Blue, a branch of the Kansas River.- above this
river about half a mile the Prarie Comes to the Missouri after my
return to Camp on the Island Completed Som observations, Tred tried a
man for sleeping on his Post & inspected the arms amunition &c. of the
party found all complete, Took Some Luner Obsevations. three Deer
killed to day. Latd. 39° 55' 56" N.
[Lewis and Clark, July 12, 1804]
Camp New Island July 12th 1804.
A Court matial consisting of the two commanding officers will convene
this day at 1 OCk. P.M. for the trial of such prisoners as may be
brought before them; one of the court will act as judge Advocate.
M. Lewis
Wm. Clark
The Commanding officers. Capt. M. Lewis & W. Clark constituted
themselves a Court martial for the trial of Such prisoners as are
Guilty of Capatol Crimes, and under the rules and articles of War
punishable by Death,
Alexander Willard was brought foward Charged with "Lying down and
Sleeping on his post whilst a Sentinal, on the night of the 11th.
Instant" (by John Ordway Sergeant of the Guard)
To this Charge the prisoner pleads. Guilty of Lying Down, and not
Guilty, of Going to Sleep. The Court after Duly Considering the
evidence aduced, are of oppinion that the Prisoner Alexdn. Willard is
guilty of every part of the Charge exhibited against him. it being a
breach of the rules and articles of War (as well as tending to the
probable distruction of the party) do Sentence him to receive One
hundred lashes on his bear back, at four different times in equal
propation.- and order that the punishment Commence this evening at
Sunset, and Continue to be inflicted, (by the Guard) every evening
untill Completed
Wm Clark
M. Lewis
[Clark, July 13, 1804]
My notes of the 13th of July by a Most unfortunate accident blew over
Board in a Storm in the morning of the 14th obliges me to refur to the
Journals of Serjeants, and my own recollection the accurrences Courses
Distance &c. of that day- last night a violent Storm from the N. N, E.-
(1) passed Tar-ki-o River, at 2 miles a chant. running into this river
3 ms. abov forms St Josephs Isld. Passed an elegt Prarie in the 1st
bend to the left. Containg a grass resmlg Timothy, with Seed like flax,
(2) passed a Island in a bend to the S. S. at 12 ms. I walked on Shore
S. S. lands, low & overflows, Killed two Goslings nearly Grown, Sailed
under a Wind from the South all day, Camped on a Sand Island on the L.
Pt. opposit a high & extensiv Prarie, on the S. S. the Hills about 4 or
5 me. off, this Plain appears extensive, great appearance of a Storm
from the North W. this evening verry agreeable the wind Still from the
South-
from the Osagies Nation with twenty odd of the Natives or chiefs of the
Nation with him sailed dowen the Mississippi bound to St Louis & 3 guns
fired showers of rain Showers of Rain all that night
[Clark, July 13, 1804]
July 13th Friday 1804
Set out at Sun rise, and prosd. on under a gentle Breeze, at two miles
passed the mouth of a Small river on the S. S. Called by the Indians
Tarki-o, a Channel running out of the river three miles above (which is
now filled up with Sand) runs into this Creek & and formed a Island
Called St.
Josephs Several Sand bars parralel to each other above- In the first
bend to the left is Situated a Butifull & extensive plain, Cover'd with
Grass resembling Timothy except the Seed which resembles Flax Seed,
this plain also abounds in Grapes of defferent Kinds Some nearly ripe.
I Killed two Goslings nearly Grown, Several others Killed and cought on
Shore, also one old Goose, with pin fethers, She Could not fly- at
about 12 miles passd. a Island Situated in a bend on the S. S. above
this Island is a large Sand bar Covered with willows. The wind from the
South, Camped on a large Sand Bar makeing out from the L. P. opposit a
high hanson Prarie, the hills about 4 or 5 miles on S. S. this plain
appeard extensive, the Clouds appear to geather to the N. W. a most
agreeable Breeze from the South (I walked on Shore on the S. S. the
lands are low Subject to overflow)
Last night at about 10 oClock a violent Storm of wind from the N. N. E.
which lasted with Great violence for about one hour, at which time a
Shower of rain Succeeded.
The men on Shore did not join us this after noon- The river nearly on a
Stand- the high lands on the S. S. has only been Seen at a Distance
above the Nordaway River, those on the S. L. aproaching the river at
every bend, on the Side next to the river well timbered, the opsd. Side
open & the Commencmt. of Plains.
[Clark, July 14, 1804]
July the 14th Satturday Some hard Shours of rain accompaned with Some
wind detained us untill about 7 oClock, we then Set out and proceeded
on about a mile and th atmispeir became Suddenly darkened by a blak &
dismal looking Cloud, we wer in a Situation, near the upper point of a
Sd. Isd. & the opsd Shore falling in in this Situation a Violent Storm
of Wint from the N, E (passing over an Open plain, Struck the boat
nearly Starboard, quatering, & blowing down the Current) the exerssions
of all our Men who were out in an instant, aded to a Strong Cable and
Anchor was Scrcely Sufficent to Keep the boat from being thrown up on
the Sand Island, and dashed to peices the Waves dasthed over on the
Side next to the wind the lockers which was covered with Tarpoling
prevented them coming into the boat untill the Boat was Creaned on the
Side from the Wind in this Situation we continued about 40 minits, the
two perogues about a quater of a mile above, one of them in a Similer
Situation with the Boat, the other under the charge of George Gibson in
a much better position, with her Ster faceing the wind, this Storm
Suddenly Seased, & 1 minit the river was as Smoth as glass, the wind
Shifted to the S. E and we Set Sail, and proceeded on passed (1) a
Small Island on the S. S. and Dined- R. Fields who has charge of the
horses &c. on Shore did not join us last night-. passed a old fort
where Mr. Bennet of St Louis winttered 2 years & traded with the
Otteaus & Parties on the S. S. 1 me. abov the little Island, I went out
on the L. S. and observed two Elk on a land in the river, in attempting
to get near those elk obseved one near us I Shot one. continued on
Shore & thro the bottom which was extensive, Some Small Praries, and a
peponce of high rich & well timbered bottom, in the Glades I saw wild
Timothy, Lams quarter Cuckle burs & rich weed, on the edges Plumbs of
different kinds Grapes, and Goose berries, Camped on the L. S. Ruben
Fields and Gulrich joined the Party two men unwell, one a Felin on his
finger, river fall
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