Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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This morning Capt. C. and party
[Clark, August 26, 1805]
August 26th Monday 1805
a fine morning Despatched three men a head to hunt, our horses missing
Sent out my guide and four men to hunt them, which detained me untill 9
oClock a.m. at which time I Set out and proceeded on by the way of the
forks to the Indian Camps at the first were not one mouthfull to eate
untill night as our hunters could kill nothing and I could See & catch
no fish except a few Small ones. The Indians gave us 2 Sammon boiled
which I gave to the men, one of my men Shot a Sammon in the river about
Sunset those fish gave us a Supper. all the Camp flocked about me
untill I went to Sleep- and I beleve if they had a Sufficency to eate
themselves and any to Spare they would be liberal of it I derected the
men to mend their Mockessons to night and turn out in the morning early
to hunt Deer fish birds &c. &c. Saw great numbers of the large Black
grass hopper. Some bars which were verry wild, but few Birds. a number
of ground Lizards; Some fiew Pigions
[Clark, August 27, 1805]
August 27th Tuesday 1805
Some frost this morning every Man except one, out hunting, a young man
Came from the upper Village & informed me that Capt Lewis would join me
abt. 12 oClock to day. one man killed a Small Sammon, and the Indians
gave me another which afforded us a Sleight brackfast. Those Pore
people are here depending on what fish They Can Catch, without anything
else to depend on; and appere Contented, my party hourly Complaining of
their retched Situation and doubts of Starveing in a Countrey where no
game of any kind except a fiew fish can be found, an Indian brough in
to the Camp 5 Sammon, two of which I purchased which afforded us a
Supper.
[Clark, August 28, 1805]
August 28th Wednesday 1805
a frost this morning. The Inds. Cought out of their traps Several
Sammon and gave us two, I purchased two others which we made last us to
day. Several a Camp of about 40 Indians came from the West fork and
passed up to day, nothing killed by my party with every exertion in all
places where game probably might be found. I dispatched one man to the
upper camps to enquire if Cap. Lewis was comeing &c. he returned after
night with a letter from Capt. Lewis informing me of his Situation at
the upper Village, and had precured 22 horses for our rout through by
land on the plan which I had preposed in which he agreed with me in;
and requsted me to ride up and get the horses the Indian informed him
they had reserved for me &c. I purchased Some fish roe of those pore
but kind people with whome I am Encamped for which I gave three Small
fish hooks, the use of which they readily proseved, one Indian out all
day & killed only one Sammon with his gig; my hunters killed nothing, I
had three pack Saddles made to day for our horses which I expected Capt
Lewis would purchase &c. Those Sammon which I live on at present are
pleasent eateing, not with standing they weaken me verry fast and my
flesh I find is declineing
[Clark, August 29, 1805]
August 29th Thursday 1805
a Cold morning Some frost. the Wind from the South, I left our baggage
in possession of 2 men and proceeded on up to join Capt Lewis at the
upper Village of Snake Indians where I arrived at 1 oClock found him
much engaged in Counceling and attempting to purchase a fiew more
horses. I Spoke to the Indians on various Subjects endeavoring to
impress on theire minds the advantaje it would be to them for to Sell
us horses and expedite the our journey the nearest and best way
possibly that we might return as Soon as possible and winter with them
at Some place where there was plenty of buffalow,- our wish is to get a
horse for each man to Carry our baggage and for Some of the men to ride
occasionally, The horses are handsom and much acustomed to be changed
as to their Parsture; we cannot Calculate on their carrying large loads
& feed on the Grass which we may Calculate on finding in the Mountain
Thro which we may expect to pass on our rout made Some Selestial
observations, the Lard. of this Part the Columbia River is ____ North.
Longtd. ____ W
I purchased a horse for which I gave my Pistol 100 Balls Powder & a
Knife. our hunters Killed 2 Deer near their Camp to day. 2 yesterday &
3 The Day before, this meet was a great treat to me as I had eate none
for 8 days past
[Clark, August 30, 1805]
August 30th Friday 1805
a fine Morning, finding that we Could purchase no more horse than we
had for our goods &c. (and those not a Sufficint number for each of our
Party to have one which is our wish) I Gave my Fuzee to one of the men
& Sold his musket for a horse which Completed us to 29 total horses, we
Purchased pack Cords Made Saddles & Set out on our rout down the river
by land guided by my old guide one other who joined him, the old gude's
3 Sons followed him before we Set out our hunters killed three Deer
proceded on 12 miles and encamped on the river South Side- at the time
we Set out from the Indian Camps the greater Part of the Band Set out
over to the waters of the Missouri. we had great attention paid to the
horses, as they were nearly all Sore Backs and Several pore, & young
Those horses are indifferent, maney Sore backs and others not acustomed
to pack, and as we Cannot put large loads on them are Compelled to
purchase as maney as we Can to take our Small propotion of baggage of
the Parties. (& Eate if necessary) Proceeded on 12 miles to day
[Clark, August 31, 1805]
August 31st 1805 Satturday
A fine morning Set out before Sun rise, as we passed the lodges at
which place I had encamped for thre nights and left 2 men, Those 2 men
joined us and we proceeded on in the Same rout I decended the 21st
Instant, halted 3 hours on Sammon Creek to Let our horses graze the
wind hard from the S. W. I met an Indian on horse back who fled with
great Speed to Some lodges below & informed them that the Enemis were
Coming down, armd with guns &c. the inhabitents of the Lodges
indisceved him, we proceeded on the road on which I had decended as far
as the 1st run below & left the road & Proceeded up the Run in a
tolerable road 4 miles & Encamped in Some old lodjes at the place the
road leaves the Creek and assends the high Countrey Six Indians
followed us four of them the Sons of our guide; our hunters killed one
Deer a goose & Prarie fowl. This day warm and Sultrey, Praries or open
Valies on fire in Several places- The Countrey is Set on fire for the
purpose of Collecting the different bands, and a Band of the Flatheads
to go to the Missouri where They intend passing the winter near the
Buffalow Proceeded on 22 miles to Day, 4 miles of which up a run
[Clark, September 1, 1805]
September 1st Sunday 1805
a fine morning Set out early and proceeded on over high ruged hills
passing the heads of the Small runs which fall into the river on our
left to a large Creek which falls into the river 6 miles to our left
and encamped in the bottom, Some rain to day at 12 and in the evening
which obliges us to Continu all night despatched 2 men to the mouth of
the Creek to purchase fish of the Indians at that place, They returned
with Some dried, we giged 4 Sammon & killed one Deer to Day. the
Countrey which we passed to day is well watered & broken Pore Stoney
hilly country except the bottoms of the Creek which is narrow, all the
Indians leave us except our Guide, one man Shot two bear this evining
unfortunately we Could git neither of them
[Clark, September 2, 1805]
September 2nd Monday 1805
a Cloudy Mornin, raind Some last night we Set out early and proceeded
on up the Creek, Crossed a large fork from the right and one from the
left; and at 8 miles left the roade on which we were pursuing and which
leads over to the Missouri; and proceeded up a West fork without a
roade proceded on thro thickets in which we were obliged to Cut a road,
over rockey hill Sides where our horses were in pitial danger of
Slipping to Ther certain distruction & up & Down Steep hills, where
Several horses fell, Some turned over, and others Sliped down Steep
hill Sides, one horse Crippeled & 2 gave out. with the greatest
dificuelty risque &c. we made five miles & Encamped on The left Side of
the Creek in a Small Stoney bottom after night Some time before the
rear Came up, one Load left, about 2 miles back, the horse on which it
was Carried Crippled. Some rain at night
[Clark, September 3, 1805]
September 3rd Tuesday 1805
A Cloudy morning, horses verry Stiff Sent 2 men back with the horse on
which Capt Lewis rode for the load left back last night which detained
us until) 8 oClock at which time we Set out. The Country is timbered
with Pine Generally the bottoms have a variety of Srubs & the fur trees
in Great abundance. hills high & rockey on each Side, in the after part
of the day the high mountains closed the Creek on each Side and obliged
us to take on the Steep Sides of those Mountains, So Steep that the
horses Could Screcly keep from Slipping down, Several Sliped & Injured
themselves verry much, with great dificuelty we made ____ miles &
Encamped on a branh of the Creek we assended after Crossing Several
Steep points & one mountain, but little to eate I killed 5 Pheasents &
The huntes 4 with a little Corn afforded us a kind of Supper, at dusk
it began to Snow at 3 oClock Some rain. The mountains to the East
Covered with Snow. we met with a great misfortune, in haveing our last
Thmometer broken by accident, This day we passed over emence hils and
Some of the worst roade that ever horses passed our horses frequently
fell Snow about 2 inches deep when it began to rain which termonated in
a Sleet our genl. Courses nearly North from the R
[Clark, September 4, 1805]
September 4th Wednesday 1805
a verry cold morning every thing wet and frosed, we detained untill 8
oClock to thaw the covering for the baggage &c. &c. groun covered with
Snow, we assended a mountain & took a Divideing ridge which we kept for
Several Miles & fell on the head of a Creek which appeared to run the
Course we wished to go, I was in front, & Saw Several of the Argalia or
Ibex decended the mountain by verry Steep decent takeing the advantage
of the points and best places to the Creek, where our hunter killed a
Deer which we made use of and prosued our Course down the Creek to the
forks about 5 miles where we met a part of the Flat head nation of 33
Lodges about 80 men 400 Total and at least 500 horses, those people
recved us friendly, threw white robes over our Sholders & Smoked in the
pipes of peace, we Encamped with them & found them friendly but nothing
but berries to eate a part of which they gave us, those Indians are
well dressed with Skin Shirts & robes, they Stout & light complected
more So than Common for Indians, The Chiefs harangued untill late at
night, Smoked our pipe and appeared Satisfied. I was the first white
man who ever wer on the waters of this river.
[Clark, September 5, 1805]
September 5th Thursday 1805
a Cloudy morning we assembled the Chiefs & warriers and Spoke to them
(with much dificuely as what we Said had to pass through Several
languajes before it got in to theirs, which is a gugling kind of
languaje Spoken much thro the fhrought) we informed them who we were,
where we Came from, where bound and for what purpose &c. &c. and
requsted to purchase & exchange a fiew horses with them, in the Course
of the day I purchased 11 horses & exchanged 7 for which we gave a fiew
articles of merchendize. those people possess ellegant horses.- we made
4 Chiefs whome we gave meadels & a few Small articles with Tobacco; the
women brought us a few berries & roots to eate and the Principal Chief
a Dressed Brarow, otter & two Goat & antilope Skins
Those people wore their hair the men Cewed with otter Skin on each Side
falling over the Sholrs forward, the women loose promisquisly over ther
Sholdrs & face long Shirts which Coms to the anckles & tied with a belt
about their waste with a roabe over, the have but fiew ornaments and
what they do were are Similar to the Snake Indians, They Call
themselves Eoote-lash-Schute and consist of 450 Lodges in all and
divided into Several bands on the heads of Columbia river & Missouri,
Some low down the Columbia River
[Clark, September 6, 1805]
September 6th Friday 1805
Some little rain, purchased two fine horses & took a Vocabiliary of the
language litened our loads & packed up, rained contd. Untill 12 oClock
we Set out at 2 oClock at the Same time all the Indians Set out on Ther
way to meet the Snake Indians at the 3 forks of the Missouri. Crossed a
Small river from the right we call ____ Soon after Setting out, also a
Small Creek from the North all three forks Comeing together below our
Camp at which place the Mountains Close on each Side of the river, We
proceeded on N 30 W. Crossed a Mountain and Struck the river Several
miles down, at which place the Indians had Encamped two days before, we
Proceeded on Down the River which is 30 yds. wide Shallow & Stoney.
Crossing it Several times & Encamped in a Small bottom on the right
side. rained this evening nothing to eate but berries, our flour out,
and but little Corn, the hunters killed 2 pheasents only- all our
horses purchased of the oote lash Shutes we Secured well for fear of
their leaveing of us, and watched them all night for fear of their
leaving us or the Indians prosuing & Steeling them.
[Clark, September 7, 1805]
September 7th Satturday 1805
A Cloudy & rainie Day the greater Part of the Day dark & Drisley we
proceedd on down the river thro a Vallie passed Several Small Runs on
the right & 3 creeks on the left The Vallie from 1 to 2 miles wide the
Snow top mountains to our left, open hilley Countrey on the right. Saw
2 horses left by the Indians Those horses were as wild a Elk. One of
our hunters Came up this morning without his horse, in the course of
the night the horse broke loose & Cleared out- we did not make Camp
untill dark, for the want of a good place, one of our hunters did not
join us this evening. he haveing killed an elk packed his horses &
could not overtake us
[Clark, September 8, 1805]
September 8th Sunday 1805
a Cloudy morning Set out early and proceeded on through an open vallie
for 23 miles passed 4 Creeks on the right Some runs on the left, The
bottoms as also the hills Stoney bad land. Some pine on the Creeks and
mountains, an partial on the hills to the right hand Side. two of our
hunters came up with us at 12 oClock with an Elk, & Buck- the wind from
the N. W. & Cold. The foot of the Snow mountains approach the River on
the left Side. Some Snow on The mountain to the right also proceeded on
down the Vallie which is pore Stoney land and encamped on the right
Side of the river a hard rain all the evening we are all Cold and wet.
on this part of the river on the head of Clarks River I observe great
quantities of a peculiar Sort of Prickly peare grow in Clusters ovel &
about the Size of a Pigions egge with Strong Thorns which is So birded
as to draw the Pear from the Cluster after penetrateing our feet.
Drewyer killed a Deer. I killed a prarie fowl we found 2 mears and a
Colt the mears were lame, we ventered to let our late purchase of
horses loose to night
[Lewis, September 9, 1805]
Monday September 9th 1805.
Set out at 7 A M. this morning and proceeded down the Flathead river
leaving it on our left, the country in the valley of this river is
generally a prarie and from five to 6 miles wide the growth is almost
altogether pine principally of the longleafed kind, with some spruce
and a kind of furr resembleing the scotch furr. near the wartercourses
we find a small proportion of the narrow leafed cottonwood some redwood
honeysuckle and rosebushes form the scant proportion of underbrush to
be seen. at 12 we halted on a small branch which falls in to the river
on the E. side, where we breakfasted on a scant proportion of meat
which we had reserved from the hunt of yesterday added to three geese
which one of our hunters killed this morning. two of our hunters have
arrived, one of them brought with him a redheaded woodpecker of the
large kind common to the U States. this is the first of the kind I have
seen since I left the Illinois. just as we were seting out Drewyer
arrived with two deer. we continued our rout down the valley about 4
miles and crossed the river; it is hear a handsome stream about 100
yards wide and affords a considerable quantity of very clear water, the
banks are low and it's bed entirely gravel. the stream appears
navigable, but from the circumstance of their being no sammon in it I
believe that there must be a considerable fall in it below. our guide
could not inform us where this river discharged itself into the
columbia river, he informed us that it continues it's course along the
mountains to the N. as far as he knew it and that not very distant from
where we then were it formed a junction with a stream nearly as large
as itself which took it's rise in the mountains near the Missouri to
the East of us and passed through an extensive valley generally open
prarie which forms an excellent pass to the Missouri. the point of the
Missouri where this Indian pass intersects it, is about 30 miles above
the gates of the rocky mountain, or the place where the valley of the
Missouri first widens into an extensive plain after entering the rockey
mountains. the guide informed us that a man might pass to the missouri
from hence by that rout in four days. we continued our rout down the W.
side of the river about 5 miles further and encamped on a large creek
which falls in on the West as our guide informes that we should leave
the river at this place and the weather appearing settled and fair I
determined to halt the next day rest our horses and take some
scelestial Observations. we called this Creek Travellers rest. it is
about 20 yards wide a fine bould clear runing stream the land through
which we passed is but indifferent a could white gravley soil. we
estimate our journey of this day at 19 M.
[Clark, September 9, 1805]
September 9th Monday 1805
a fair morning Set out early and proceeded on thro a plain as yesterday
down the valley Crossed a large Scattering Creek on which Cotton trees
grew at 11/2 miles, a Small one at 10 miles, both from the right, the
main river at 15 miles & Encamped on a large Creek from the left which
we call Travelers rest Creek. killed 4 deer & 4 Ducks & 3 prarie fowls.
day fair Wind N. W. See Suplement
[Lewis, September 10, 1805]
Tuesday September 10th 1805.
The morning being fair I sent out all the hunters, and directed two of
them to procede down the river as far as it's junction with the Eastern
fork which heads near the missouri, and return this evening. this fork
of the river we determined to name the Valley plain river. I think it
most probable that this river continues it's course along the rocky
Mts. Northwardly as far or perhaps beyond the scources of Medecine
river and then turning to the West falls into the Tacootchetessee. The
Minetares informed us that there was a large river west of, and at no
great distance from the sources of Medecine river, which passed along
the Rocky Mountains from S. to N.this evening one of our hunters
returned accompanyed by three men of the Flathead nation whom he had
met in his excurtion up travellers rest Creek. on first meeting him the
Indians were allarmed and prepared for battle with their bows and
arrows, but he soon relieved their fears by laying down his gun and
advancing towards them. the Indians were mounted on very fine horses of
which the Flatheads have a great abundance; that is, each man in the
nation possesses from 20 to a hundred head. our guide could not speake
the language of these people but soon engaged them in conversation by
signs or jesticulation, the common language of all the Aborigines of
North America, it is one understood by all of them and appears to be
sufficiently copious to convey with a degree of certainty the outlines
of what they wish to communicate. in this manner we learnt from these
people that two men which they supposed to be of the Snake nation had
stolen 23 horses from them and that they were in pursuit of the
theaves. they told us they were in great hast, we gave them some boiled
venison, of which the eat sparingly. the sun was now set, two of them
departed after receiving a few small articles which we gave them, and
the third remained, having agreed to continue with us as a guide, and
to introduce us to his relations whom he informed us were numerous and
resided in the plain below the mountains on the columbia river, from
whence he said the water was good and capable of being navigated to the
sea; that some of his relation were at the sea last fall and saw an old
whiteman who resided there by himself and who had given them some
handkerchiefs such as he saw in our possession.- he said it would
require five sleeps wich is six days travel, to reach his relations.
the Flatheads are a very light coloured people of large stature and
comely form.
[Clark, September 10, 1805]
September 10th Tuesday 1805
A fair morning Concluded to Delay to day and make Some observations, as
at this place the rout which we are to prosue will pass up the
Travelers rest Creek, The day proved fair and we took equal altitudes &
Some Inner observations. The Latd. 46° 48' 28" as the guide report that
no game is to be found on our rout for a long ways, ads an addition to
the cause of our delay to precure Some meat, despatched all our hunters
in different directions, to hunt the Deer which is the only large game
to be found they killed 4 deer a Beaver & 3 Grouse which was divided,
one of the hunters Colter, met with 3 Tushapaw Indians who were in
pursuit of 2 Snake Indians that bade taken from ther Camps on the head
of Kooskooske River 21 horses, Those Indians came with Colter to our
Camp & informed by Signs of their misfortune & the rout to ther
villages &c. &c. one of them Concluded to return with us. we gave them
a ring fish hook & tied a pece of ribin in the hare of each which
appeared to please them verry much, Cap Lewis gave them a Steel & a
little Powder to make fire, after eating 2 of them proceeded on in
pursute of their horses. men all much engaged preparing mockersons &c.
&c. The Countrey about this place is already described in that above.
[Clark, September 11, 1805]
September 11th Wednesday 1805
A fair morning wind from the N W we Set out at 3 oClock and proceeded
on up the Travelers rest Creek, accompanied by the flat head or
Tushapaws Indians about 7 miles below this Creek a large fork comes in
from the right and heads up against the waters of the Missouri below
the Three forks, this river has extensive Vallies of open leavel land,
"and passes in its Whole Course thro a Valie" they call it our Guide
tels us a fine large roade passes up this river to the Missouri- The
loss of 2 of our horses detained us util. 3 oClock. P.M. our Flathead
Indian being restless thought proper to leave us and proceed on alone,
Sent out the hunters to hunt in advance as usial. (we have Selected 4
of the best hunters to go in advance to hunt for the party. This
arrangement has been made long sinc) we Proceeded on up the Creek on
the right Side thro a narrow valie and good road for 7 miles and
Encamped at Some old Indian Lodges, nothing killed this evening hills
on the right high & ruged, the mountains on the left high & Covered
with Snow. The day Verry worm
[Clark, September 12, 1805]
September 12th Thursday 1805
a white frost Set out at 7 oClock & proceeded on up the Creek, passed a
Fork on the right on which I saw near an old Indian encampment a Swet
house Covered wthh earth, at 2 miles assended a high hill & proceeded
through a hilley and thickly timbered Countrey for 9 miles & on the
Right of the Creek, passing Several branches from the right of fine
clear water and Struck at a fork at which place the road forks, one
passing up each fork. The Timber is Short & long leaf Pine Spruce Pine
& fur. The road through this hilley Countrey is verry bad passing over
hills & thro Steep hollows, over falling timber &c. &c. continued on &
passed Some most intolerable road on the Sides of the Steep Stoney
mountains, which might be avoided by keeping up the Creek which is
thickly covered with under groth & falling timber Crossed a mountain 8
miles with out water & encamped on a hill Side on the Creek after
Decending a long Steep mountain, Some of our Party did not git up
untill 10 oClock P M. I mad camp at 8 on this roade & particularly on
this Creek the Indians have pealed a number of Pine for the under bark
which they eate at certain Seasons of the year, I am told in the Spring
they make use of this bark our hunters Killed only one Pheasent this
after noon. Party and horses much fatigued.
[Clark, September 13, 1805]
September 13th Wednesday 1805 a cloudy morning Capt Lewis and one of
our guides lost their horses, Capt Lewis & 4 men detained to hunt the
horses, I proceeded on with the partey up the Creek at 2 miles passed
Several Springs which I observed the Deer Elk &c. had made roads to,
and below one of the Indians had made a whole to bathe, I tasted this
water and found it hot & not bad tasted The last ____ in further
examonation I found this water nearly boiling hot at the places it
Spouted from the rocks (which a hard Corse Grit, and of great size the
rocks on the Side of the Mountain of the Same texture) I put my finger
in the water, at first could not bare it in a Second-as Several roads
led from these Springs in different derections, my Guide took a wrong
road and took us out of our rout 3 miles through intolerable rout,
after falling into the right road I proceeded on thro tolerabl rout for
abt. 4 or 5 miles and halted to let our horses graze as well as waite
for Capt Lewis who has not yet Come up, The pine Countrey falling
timber &c. &c. Continue. This Creek is verry much darned up with the
beaver, but we can See none, dispatched two men back to hunt Capt Lewis
horse, after he came up, and we proceeded over a mountain to the head
of the Creek which we left to our left and at 6 miles from the place I
nooned it, we fell on a Small Creek from the left which Passed through
open glades Some of which 1/2 a mile wide, we proceeded down this Creek
about 2 miles to where the mountains Closed on either Side crossing the
Creek Several times & Encamped.
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109 |
110 |
111 |
112 |
113 |
114 |
115 |
116 |
117 |
118 |
119 |
120 |
121 |
122 |
123 |
124 |
125 |
126 |
127 |
128 |
129 |
130 |
131 |
132 |
133 |
134 |
135