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Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark

M >> Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark

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The guide who had by this time arrived explained to them who we were
and our object in visiting them; but still there were some of the women
and Children inconsoleable, they continued to cry during our stay,
which was about an hour. a road passes up this river which my guide
informed me led over the mountains to the Missouri. from this place I
continued my rout along the steep side of a mountain for about 3 miles
and arrived at the river near a small Island on the lower point of
which we encamped in the evening we attempted to gig fish but were
unsuccessfull only obtaining one small salmon. in the course of the day
we had passed several women and children geathering burries who were
very liberal in bestoing us a part of their collections. the river is
very rapid and shoaly; many rocks lie in various derections scattered
throughout it's bed. There are some few small pine scattered through
the bottoms, of which I only saw one which appeared as if it would
answer for a canoe and that was but small. the tops of the mountains on
the Lard. side are covered with pine and some also scattered on the
sides of all the mountains. I saw today a speceis of woodpecker, which
fed on the seeds of the pine. it's beak and tail were white, it's wings
were black, and every other part of a dark brown. it was about the size
of a robin-

[Clark, August 22, 1805]
August 22d Thursday 1805
We Set out early passed a Small Creek on the right at 1 mile and the
points of four mountains verry Steap high & rockey, the assent of three
was So Steap that it is incrediable to describe the rocks in maney
places loose & Sliped from those mountains and is a bed of rugid loose
white and dark brown loose rock for miles. the Indian horses pass over
those Clifts hills Sids & rocks as fast as a man, the three horses with
me do not detain me any on account of those dificuelties, passed two
bold rung. Streams on the right and a Small river at the mouth of Which
Several families of Indians were encamped and had Several Scaffolds of
fish & buries drying we allarmed them verry much as they knew nothing
of a white man being in their Countrey, and at the time we approached
their lodges which was in a thick place of bushes-my guiedes were
behind.- They offered every thing they possessed (which was verry
littl) to us, Some run off and hid in the bushes The first offer of
theirs were Elks tuskes from around their Childrens necks, Sammon &c.
my guide attempted passifyed those people and they Set before me
berres, & fish to eate, I gave a fiew Small articles to those fritened
people which added verry much to their pasification but not entirely as
Some of the women & Childn. Cried dureing my Stay of an hour at this
place, I proceeded on the Side of a verry Steep & rockey mountain for 3
miles and Encamped on the lower pt. of an Island. we attempted to gig
fish without Suckcess. caught but one Small one.The last Creek or Small
river is on the right Side and "a road passes up it & over to the
Missouri" in this day passed Several womin and Children gathering and
drying buries of which they were very kind and gave us a part. the
river rapid and Sholey maney Stones Scattered through it in different
directions. I Saw to day Bird of the wood pecker kind which fed on Pine
burs its Bill and tale white the wings black every other part of a
light brown, and about the Size of a robin. Some fiew Pine Scattered in
the bottoms & Sides of the Mountains (the Top of the Motn. to the left
Covered & inaxcessable) I Saw one which would make a Small Canoe.

[Lewis, August 23, 1805]
Friday August 23rd 1805.
This morning I arrose very early and despatched two hunters on
horseback with orders to extend their hunt to a greater distance up the
S. E. fork than they had done heretofore, in order if possible to
obtain some meet for ourselves as well as the Indians who appeared to
depend on us for food and our store of provision is growing too low to
indulge them with much more corn or flour. I wished to have set out
this morning but the cheef requested that I would wait untill another
party of his nation arrived which he expected today, to this I
consented from necessity, and therefore sent out the hunters as I have
mentioned. I also laid up the canoes this morning in a pond near the
forks; sunk them in the water and weighted them down with stone, after
taking out the plugs of the gage holes in their bottoms; hoping by this
means to guard against both the effects of high water, and that of the
fire which is frequently kindled in these plains by the natives. the
Indians have promised to do them no intentional injury and beleive they
are too lazy at any rate to give themselves the trouble to raise them
from their present situation in order to cut or birn them. I reminded
the chief of the low state of our stores of provision and advised him
to send his young men to hunt, which he immediately recommended to them
and most of them turned out. I wished to have purchased some more
horses of them but they objected against disposing of any more of them
untill we reach their camp beyond the mountains. the Indians pursued a
mule buck near our camp I saw this chase for about 4 miles it was
really entertaining, there were about twelve of them in pursuit of it
on horseback, they finally rode it down and killed it. the all came in
about 1 P.M. having killed 2 mule deer and three goats. this mule buck
was the largest deer of any kind I had ever seen. it was nearly as
large as a doe Elk. I observed that there was but little division or
distribution of the meat they had taken among themselves. some familes
had a large stock and others none. this is not customary among the
nations of Indians with whom I have hitherto been acquainted I asked
Cameahwait the reason why the hunters did not divide the meat among
themselves; he said that meat was so scarce with them that the men who
killed it reserved it for themselves and their own families. my hunters
arrived about 2 in the evening with two mule deer and three common
deer. I distributed three of the deer among those families who appeared
to have nothing to eat. at three P.M. the expected party of Indians
arrived, about 50 men women and Children. I now learnt that most of
them were thus far on their way down the valley towards the buffaloe
country, and observed that there was a good deel of anxiety on the part
of some of those who had promised to assist me over the mountains to
accompany this party, I felt some uneasiness on this subject but as
they still said they would return with me as they had promised I said
nothing to them but resolved to set out in the morning as early as
possible. I dispatched two hunters this evening into the cove to hunt
and leave the meat they might kill on the rout we shall pass tomorrow.

The metal which we found in possession of these people consited of a
few indifferent knives, a few brass kettles some arm bands of iron and
brass, a few buttons, woarn as ornaments in their hair, a spear or two
of a foot in length and some iron and brass arrow points which they
informed me they obtained in exchange for horses from the Crow or Rocky
Mountain Indians on the yellowstone River. the bridlebits and stirrips
they obtained from the Spaniards, tho these were but few. many of them
made use of flint for knives, and with this instrument, skined the
animals they killed, dressed their fish and made their arrows; in short
they used it for every purpose to which the knife is applyed. this
flint is of no regular form, and if they can only obtain a part of it,
an inch or two in length that will cut they are satisfyed, they renew
the edge by fleaking off the flint by means of the point of an Elk's or
deer's horn. with the point of a deer or Elk's horn they also form
their arrow points of the flint, with a quickness and neatness that is
really astonishing. we found no axes nor hatchets among them; what wood
they cut was done either with stone or Elk's horn. the latter they use
always to rive or split their wood. their culinary eutensils exclusive
of the brass kettle before mentioned consist of pots in the form of
ajar made either of earth, or of a white soft stone which becomes black
and very hard by birning, and is found in the hills near the three
forks of the Missouri betwen Madison's and Gallitin's rivers they have
also spoons made of the Buffaloe's horn and those of the Bighorn. Their
bows are made of ceader or pine and have nothing remarkable about them.
the back of the bow is covered with sinues and glue and is about 21/2
feet long. much the shape of those used by the Siouxs Mandans
Minnetares &c. their arrows are more slender generally than those used
by the nations just mentioned but much the same in construction. Their
Sheild is formed of buffaloe hide, perfectly arrow proof, and is a
circle of 2 feet 4 I. or 2 F. 6 I. in diameter. this is frequently
painted with varios figures and ornamented around the edges with
feather and a fringe of dressed leather. they sometimes make bows of
the Elk's horn and those also of the bighorn. those of the Elk's horn
are made of a single peice and covered on the back with glue and sinues
like those made of wood, and are frequently ornamented with a stran
wrought porcupine quills and sinues raped around them for some distance
at both extremities. the bows of the bighorn are formed of small peices
laid flat and cemented with gleue, and rolled with sinews, after which,
they are also covered on the back with sinews and glew, and highly
ornamented as they are much prized. forming the sheild is a cerimony of
great importance among them, this implement would in their minds be
devested of much of its protecting power were it not inspired with
those virtues by their old men and jugglers. their method of preparing
it is thus, an entire skin of a bull buffaloe two years old is first
provided; a feast is next prepared and all the warriors old men and
jugglers invited to partake. a hole is sunk in the ground about the
same in diameter with the intended sheild and about 18 inches deep. a
parcel of stones are now made red hot and thrown into the hole water is
next thrown in and the hot stones cause it to emit a very strong hot
steem, over this they spread the green skin which must not have been
suffered to dry after taken off the beast. the flesh side is laid next
to the groround and as many of the workmen as can reach it take hold on
it's edges and extend it in every direction. as the skin becomes
heated, the hair seperates and is taken of with the fingers, and the
skin continues to contract untill the whoe is drawn within the compas
designed for the shield, it is then taken off and laid on a parchment
hide where they pound it with their heels when barefoot. this operation
of pounding continues for several days or as long as the feast lasts
when it is delivered to the propryeter and declared by the jugglers and
old men to be a sufficient defence against the arrows of their enimies
or even bullets if feast has been a satisfactory one. many of them
beleive implisitly that a ball cannot penitrate their sheilds, in
consequence of certain supernaural powers with which they have been
inspired by their jugglers.- The Poggamoggon is an instrument with a
handle of wood covered with dressed leather about the size of a whip
handle and 22 inches long; a round stone of 2 pounds weight is also
covered with leather and strongly united to the leather of the handle
by a throng of 2 inches long; a loop of leather united to the handle
passes arond the wrist. a very heavy blow may be given with this
instrument. They have also a kind of armor which they form with many
foalds of dressed Atelope's skin, unite with glue and sand. with this
they cover their own bodies and those of their horses. these are
sufficient against the effects of the arrow.- the quiver which contains
their arrows and implements for making fire is formed of various skins.
that of the Otter seems to be prefered. they are but narrow, of a
length sufficent to protect the arrow from the weather, and are woarn
on the back by means of a strap which passes over the left sholder and
under the wright arm.their impliments for making fire is nothing more
than a blunt arrow and a peice of well seasoned soft spongey wood such
as the willow or cottonwood. the point of this arrow they apply to this
dry stick so near one edge of it that the particles of wood which are
seperated from it by the friction of the arrow falls down by it's side
in a little pile. the arrow is held between the palms of the hand with
the fingers extended, and being pressed as much as possible against the
peice is briskly rolled between the palms of the hands backwards and
forwards by pressing the arrow downwards the hands of course in rolling
arrow also decend; they bring them back with a quick motion and repeat
the operation till the dust by the friction takes fire; the peice and
arrow are then removed and some dry grass or Boated wood is added. it
astonished me to see in what little time these people would kindle fire
in this way. in less than a minute they will produce fire.

Capt. Clark set out this morning very early and poroceeded but slowly
in consequence of the difficulty of his road which lay along the steep
side of a mountain over large irregular and broken masses of rocks
which had tumbled from the upper part of the mountain. it was with much
wrisk and pain that the horses could get on. at the distance of four
miles he arrived at the river and the rocks were here so steep and
juted into the river such manner that there was no other alternative
but passing through the river, this he attempted with success tho water
was so deep for a short distance as to swim the horses and was very
rapid; he continued his rout one mile along the edge of the river under
this steep Clift to a little bottom, below which the whole current of
the river beat against the Stard. shore on which he was, and which was
formed of a solid rock perfectly inaccessible to horses. here also the
little track which he had been pursuing, terminated. he therefore
determined to leave the horses and the majority of the party here and
with his guide and three men to continue his rout down the river still
further, in order more fully to satisfy himself as to it's
practicability. accordingly he directed the men to hunt and fish at
this place untill his return. they had not killed anything today but
one goose, and the ballance of the little provision they had brought
with them, as well as the five salmon they had procured yesterday were
consumed last evening; there was of tours no inducement for his halting
any time, at this place; after a few minutes he continued his rout
clambering over immence rocks and along the sides of lofty precepices
on the border of the river to the distance of 12 miles, at which place
a large creek discharged itself on the Norh side 12 yds. wide and deep.
a short distance above the entrance of this creek there is a narrow
bottom which is the first that he had found on the river from that in
which he left the horses and party. a plain indian road led up this
creek which the guide informed him led to a large river that ran to the
North, and was frequented by another nation who occasionally visited
this river for the purpose of taking fish. at this place he saw some
late appearance of Indians having been encamped and the tracks of a
number of horses. Capt. C. halted here about 2 hours, caught some small
fish, on which, with the addition of some berries, they dined. the
river from the place at which he left the party to his present station
was one continued rapid, in which there were five shoals neither of
which could be passed with loaded canoes nor even run with empty ones.
at those several places therefore it would be necessary to unload and
transport the baggage for a considerable distance over steep and almost
inacassable rocks where there was no possibility of employing horses
for the releif of the men; the canoes would next have to be let down by
cords and even with this precaution Capt. C. conceived there would be
much wriske of both canoes and men. at one of those shoals the lofty
perpendicular rocks which from the bases of the mountains approach the
river so nearly on each side, as to prevent the possibility of a
portage, or passage for the canoes without expending much labour in
removing rocks and cuting away the earth in some places. to surmount
These difficulties, precautions must be observed which in their
execution must necessarily consume much time and provision, neither of
which we can command. the season is now far advanced to remain in these
mountains as the Indians inform us we shall shortly have snow; the
salmon have so far declined that they are themselves haistening from
the country and not an animal of any discription is to be seen in this
difficult part of the river larger than a pheasant or a squirrel and
they not abundant; add to this that our stock of provision is now so
low that it would not support us more than ten days. the bends of the
river are short and the currant beats from side to side against the
rocks with great violence. the river is about 100 yds. wide and so deep
that it cannot be foarded but in a few places, and the rocks approach
the river so near in most places that there is no possibility of
passing between them and the water; a passage therefore with horses
along the river is also impracticable. The sides of these mountains
present generally one barren surface of confused and broken masses of
stone. above these are white or brown and towards the base of a grey
colour and so hard that when struck with a steel, yeald fire like
flint. those he had just past were scarcely releived by the appearance
of a tree; but those below the entrance of the creek were better
covered with timber, and there were also some tall pine near the river.
The sides of the mountains are very steep, and the torrents of water
which roll down their sides at certain seasons appear to carry with
them vast quantities of the loose stone into the river. after dinner
Capt. C. continued his rout down the river and at 1/2 a mile pased
another creek not so large as that just mentioned, or about 5 yards
wide. here his guide informed him that by ascending this creek some
distance they would have a better road and would cut off a considerable
bend which the river made to the south; accordingly he pursued a well
beaten Indian track which led up this creek about six miles, then
leaving the creek on the wright he passed over a ridge, and at the
distance of a mile arrived at the river where it passes through a well
timbered bottom of about eighty acres of land; they passed this bottom
and asscended a steep and elivated point of a mountain, from whence the
guide shewed him the brake of the river through the mountains for about
20 miles further. this view was terminated by one of the most lofty
mountains, Capt. C. informed me, he had ever seen which was perfectly
covered with snow. the river directed it's course immediately to this
stupendous mountain at the bace of which the gude informe him those
difficulties of which himself and nation had spoken, commenced. that
after the river reached this mountain it continued it's rout to the
North for many miles between high and perpendicular rocks, roling
foaming and beating against innumerable rocks which crouded it's
channel; that then it penetrated the mountain through a narrow gap
leaving a perpendicular rock on either side as high as the top of the
mountain which he beheld. that the river here making a bend they could
not see through the mountain, and as it was impossible to decend the
river or clamber over that vast mountain covered with eternal snow,
neither himself nor any of his nation had ever been lower in this
direction, than in view of the place at which the river entered this
mountain; that if Capt. C. wished him to do so, he would conduct him to
that place, where he thought they could probably arrive by the next
evening. Capt. C. being now perfictly satisfyed as to the
impractability of this rout either by land or water, informed the old
man, that he was convinced of the varacity of his assertions and would
now return to the village from whence they had set out where he
expected to meet myself and party. they now returned to the upper part
of the last creek he had passed, and encamped. it was an hour after
dark before he reached this place. a small river falls into this fork
of the Columbia just above the high mountain through which it passes on
the south side.

[Clark, August 23, 1805]
August 23rd Friday 1805
We Set out early proceed on with great dificuelty as the rocks were So
Sharp large and unsettled and the hill sides Steep that the horses
could with the greatest risque and dificulty get on, no provisions as
the 5 Sammons given us yesterday by the Indians were eaten last night,
one goose killed this morning; at 4 miles we came to a place the horses
Could not pass without going into the river, we passed one mile to a
verry bad riffle the water Confined in a narrow Channel & beeting
against the left Shore, as we have no parth further and the Mounts. jut
So close as to prevent the possibiley of horses proceeding down, I
deturmined to delay the party here and with my guide and three men
proceed on down to examine if the river continued bad or was
practiable. I Set out with three men directing those left to hunt and
fish until my return. I proceeded on Somtims in a Small wolf parth & at
other times Climeing over the rocks for 12 miles to a large Creek on
the right Side above the mouth of this Creek for a Short distance is a
narrow bottom & the first, below the place I left my partey, a road
passes down this Creek which I understoode passed to the water of a
River which run to Th North & was the ground of another nation, Some
fresh Sign about this Creek of horse and Camps. I delayd 2 hours to
fish, Cought Some Small fish on which we dined.

The River from the place I left my party to this Creek is almost one
continued rapid, five verry Considerable rapids the passage of either
with Canoes is entirely impossable, as the water is Confined betwen
hugh Rocks & the Current beeting from one against another for Some
distance below &c. &c. at one of those rapids the mountains Close So
Clost as to prevent a possibility of a portage with great labour in
Cutting down the Side of the hill removeing large rocks &c. &c. all the
others may be passed by takeing every thing over Slipery rocks, and the
Smaller ones Passed by letting down the Canoes empty with Cords, as
running them would certainly be productive of the loss of Some Canoes,
those dificuelties and necessary precautions would delay us an emince
time in which provisions would he necessary. (we have but little and
nothing to be precured in this quarter except Choke Cheres & red haws
not an animal of any kind to be seen and only the track of a Bear)
below this Creek the lofty Pine is thick in the bottom hill Sides on
the mountains & up the runs. The river has much the resemblance of that
above bends Shorter and no passing, after a few miles between the river
& the mountains & the Current So Strong that is dangerous crossing the
river, and to proceed down it would rendr it necessarey to Cross almost
at every bend This river is about 100 yards wide and can be forded but
in a few places. below my guide and maney other Indians tell me that
the Mountains Close and is a perpendicular Clift on each Side, and
Continues for a great distance and that the water runs with great
violence from one rock to the other on each Side foaming & roreing thro
rocks in every direction, So as to render the passage of any thing
impossible. those rapids which I had Seen he said was Small & trifleing
in comparrison to the rocks & rapids below, at no great distance & The
Hills or mountains were not like those I had Seen but like the Side of
a tree Streight up- Those Mountains which I had passed were Steep
Contain a white, a brown, & low down a Grey hard stone which would make
fire, those Stone were of different Sises all Sharp and are continuly
Slipping down, and in maney places one bed of those Stones inclined
from the river bottom to the top of the mountains, The Torrents of
water which come down aftr a rain carries with it emence numbers of
those Stone into the river about 1/2 a mile below the last mentioned
Creek another Creek falls in, my guide informed me that our rout was up
this Creek by which rout we would Save a considerable bend of the river
to the South. we proceeded on a well beeten Indian parth up this Creak
about 6 miles and passed over a ridge 1 mile to the river in a Small
vally through which we passed and assended a Spur of the Mountain from
which place my guide Shew me the river for about 20 miles lower &
pointed out the dificulty we returned to the last Creek & camped about
one hour after dark.

There my guide Shewed me a road from the N Which Came into the one I
was in which he Said went to a large river which run to the north on
which was a Nation he called Tushapass, he made a map of it

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