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Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark

M >> Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark

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This evening the Indians entertained us with their dancing nearly all
night. at 12 O'Ck. I grew sleepy and retired to rest leaving the men to
amuse themselves with the Indians. I observe no essential difference
between the music and manner of dancing among this nation and those of
the Missouri. I was several times awoke in the course of the night by
their yells but was too much fortiegued to be deprived of a tolerable
sound night's repose.

This morning Capt Clark set out early having previously dispatched some
hunters ahead. it was cool and cloudy all the forepart of the day. at 8
A.M. they had a slight rain. they passed a number of shoals over which
they were obliged to drag the canoes; the men in the water 3/4ths of
the day, they passed a bold runing stream 7 yds. wide on the Lard. side
just below a high point of Limestone rocks. this stream we call
McNeal's Creek after Hugh McNeal one of our party. this creek heads in
the Mountains to the East and forms a handsome valley for some miles
between the mountains. from the top of this limestone Clift above the
creek The beaver's head boar N 24° E. 12 Ms. the course of Wisdom river
or that which the opening of it's valley makes through the mountains is
N. 25 W. to the gap through which Jefferson's river enters the
mountains above is S 18° W 10 M. they killed one deer only today. saw a
number of Otter some beaver Antelopes ducks gees and Grains. they
caught a number of fine trout as they have every day since I left them.
they encamped on Lrd. in a smooth level prarie near a few cottonwood
trees, but were obliged to make use of the dry willow brush for fuel.

[Clark, August 13, 1805]
August 13th Tuesday 1805
a verry Cool morning the Thermometer Stood at 52 a 0 all the fore part
of the day. Cloudy at 8 oClock a mist of rain we proceeded on passed
inumerable Sholes obliged to haul the boat 3/4 of the Day over the
Shole water. passed the mouth of a bold running Stream 7 yards wide on
the Lard Side below a high Point of Limestone rocks on the Stard Side
this Creek heads in the mountains to the easte and forms a Vallie
between two mountains. Call this stream McNeal Creek From the top of
this rock the Point of the Beaver head hill bears N. 24° E 12 ms.

The Course of the Wisdom river is- N. 25 W

The gap at the place the river passes thro a mountain in advance is- S.
18° W. 10 ms.

proceeded on and Encamped on the Lard side no wood except dry willows
and them Small, one Deer killed to day. The river obliges the men to
undergo great fatigue and labour in hauling the Canoes over the Sholes
in the Cold water naked.

[Lewis, August 14, 1805]
Wednesday August 14th
In order to give Capt. Clark time to reach the forks of Jefferson's
river I concluded to spend this day at the Shoshone Camp and obtain
what information I could with rispect to the country. as we had nothing
but a little flour and parched meal to eat except the berries with
which the Indians furnished us I directed Drewyer and Shields to hunt a
few hours and try to kill something, the Indians furnished them with
horses and most of their young men also turned out to hunt. the game
which they principally hunt is the Antelope which they pursue on
horseback and shoot with their arrows. this animal is so extreemly
fleet and dureable that a single horse has no possible chance to
overtake them or run them down. the Indians are therefore obliged to
have recorce to strategem when they discover a herd of the Antelope
they seperate and scatter themselves to the distance of five or six
miles in different directions arround them generally scelecting some
commanding eminence for a stand; some one or two now pursue the herd at
full speed over the hills values gullies and the sides of precipices
that are tremendious to view. thus after runing them from five to six
or seven miles the fresh horses that were in waiting head them and
drive them back persuing them as far or perhaps further quite to the
other extreem of the hunters who now in turn pursue on their fresh
horses thus worrying the poor animal down and finally killing them with
their arrows. forty or fifty hunters will be engaged for half a day in
this manner and perhaps not kill more than two or three Antelopes. they
have but few Elk or black tailed deer, and the common red deer they
cannot take as they secrete themselves in the brush when pursued, and
they have only the bow and arrow wich is a very slender dependence for
killing any game except such as they can run down with their horses. I
was very much entertained with a view of this indian chase; it was
after a herd of about 10 Antelope and about 20 hunters. it lasted about
2 hours and considerable part of the chase in view from my tent. about
1 A.M. the hunters returned had not killed a single Antelope, and their
horses foaming with sweat. my hunters returned soon after and had been
equally unsuccessfull. I now directed McNeal to make me a little paist
with the flour and added some berries to it which I found very
pallateable.

The means I had of communicating with these people was by way of
Drewyer who understood perfectly the common language of jesticulation
or signs which seems to be universally understood by all the Nations we
have yet seen. it is true that this language is imperfect and liable to
error but is much less so than would be expected. the strong parts of
the ideas are seldom mistaken.

I now prevailed on the Chief to instruct me with rispect to the
geography of his country. this he undertook very cheerfully, by
delienating the rivers on the ground. but I soon found that his
information fell far short of my expectation or wishes. he drew the
river on which we now are to which he placed two branches just above
us, which he shewed me from the openings of the mountains were in view;
he next made it discharge itself into a large river which flowed from
the S. W. about ten miles below us, then continued this joint stream in
the same direction of this valley or N. W. for one days march and then
enclined it to the West for 2 more days march, here he placed a number
of beeps of sand on each side which he informed me represented the vast
mountains of rock eternally covered with snow through which the river
passed. that the perpendicular and even juting rocks so closely hemned
in the river that there was no possibilyte of passing along the shore;
that the bed of the river was obstructed by sharp pointed rocks and the
rapidity of the stream such that the whole surface of the river was
beat into perfect foam as far as the eye could reach. that the
mountains were also inaccessible to man or horse. he said that this
being the state of the country in that direction that himself nor none
of his nation had ever been further down the river than these
mountains. I then enquired the state of the country on either side of
the river but he could not inform me. he said there was an old man of
his nation a days march below who could probably give me some
information of the country to the N. W. and refered me to an old man
then present for that to the S. W.- the Chief further informed me that
he had understood from the persed nosed Indians who inhabit this river
below the rocky mountains that it ran a great way toward the seting sun
and finally lost itself in a great lake of water which was illy
taisted, and where the white men lived. I next commenced my enquiries
of the old man to whom I had been refered for information relative the
country S W. of us. this he depicted with horrors and obstructions
scarcely inferior to that just mentioned. he informed me that the band
of this nation to which he belonged resided at the distance of 20 days
march from hence not far from the white people with whom they traded
for horses mules cloth metal beads and the shells which they woar as
orniment being those of a species of perl oister. that the course to
his relations was a little to the West of South. that in order to get
to his relations the first seven days we should be obliged to climb
over steep and rocky mountains where we could find no game to kill nor
anything but roots such as a ferce and warlike nation lived on whom he
called the broken mockersons or mockersons with holes, and said
inhabited those mountains and lived like the bear of other countries
among the rocks and fed on roots or the flesh of such horses as they
could take or steel from those who passed through their country. that
in passing this country the feet of our horses would be so much wounded
with the stones many of them would give out. the next part of the rout
was about 10 days through a dry and parched sandy desert in which no
food at this season for either man or horse, and in which we must
suffer if not perish for the want of water. that the sun had now dryed
up the little pools of water which exist through this desert plain in
the spring season and had also scorched all the grass. that no animal
inhabited this plain on which we could hope to subsist. that about the
center of this plain a large river passed from S. E. to N. W. which was
navigable but afforded neither Salmon nor timber. that beyond this
plain thee or four days march his relations lived in a country
tolerable fertile and partially covered with timber on another large
river which ran in the same direction of the former. that this last
discharged itself into a large river on which many numerous nations
lived with whom his relations were at war but whether this last
discharged itself into the great lake or not he did not know. that from
his relations it was yet a great distance to the great or stinking lake
as they call the Ocean. that the way which such of his nation as had
been to the Stinking lake traveled was up the river on which they lived
and over to that on which the white people lived which last they knew
discharged itself into the Ocean, and that this was the way which he
would advise me to travel if I was determined to proceed to the Ocean
but would advise me to put off the journey untill the next spring when
he would conduct me. I thanked him for his information and advise and
gave him a knife with which he appeared to be much gratifyed. from this
narative I was convinced that the streams of which he had spoken as
runing through the plains and that on which his relations lived were
southern branches of the Columbia, heading with the rivers Apostles and
Collorado, and that the rout he had pointed out was to the Vermillion
Sea or gulph of Callifornia. I therefore told him that this rout was
more to the South than I wished to travel, and requested to know if
there was no rout on the left of this river on which we now are, by
means of which, I could intercept it below the mountains through which
it passes; but he could not inform me of any except that of the barren
plain which he said joined the mountain on that side and through which
it was impossible for us to pass at this season even if we were
fortunate enough to escape from the broken mockerson Indians. I now
asked Cameahwait by what rout the Pierced nosed indians, who he
informed me inhabited this river below the mountains, came over to the
Missouri; this he informed me was to the north, but added that the road
was a very bad one as he had been informed by them and that they had
suffered excessively with hunger on the rout being obliged to subsist
for many days on berries alone as there was no game in that part of the
mountains which were broken rockey and so thickly covered with timber
that they could scarcely pass. however knowing that Indians had passed,
and did pass, at this season on that side of this river to the same
below the mountains, my rout was instantly settled in my own mind,
povided the account of this river should prove true on an investigation
of it, which I was determined should be made before we would undertake
the rout by land in any direction. I felt perfectly satisfyed, that if
the Indians could pass these mountains with their women and Children,
that we could also pass them; and that if the nations on this river
below the mountains were as numerous as they were stated to be that
they must have some means of subsistence which it would be equally in
our power to procure in the same country. they informed me that there
was no buffaloe on the West side of these mountains; that the game
consisted of a few Elk deer and Antelopes, and that the natives
subsisted on fish and roots principally. in this manner I spent the day
smoking with them and acquiring what information I could with respect
to their country. they informed me that they could pass to the
Spaniards by the way of the yellowstone river in 10 days. I can
discover that these people are by no means friendly to the Spaniard
their complaint is, that the Spaniards will not let them have fire arms
and amunition, that they put them off by telling them that if they
suffer them to have guns they will kill each other, thus leaving them
defenceless and an easy prey to their bloodthirsty neighbours to the
East of them, who being in possession of fire arms hunt them up and
murder them without rispect to sex or age and plunder them of their
horses on all occasions. they told me that to avoid their enemies who
were eternally harrassing them that they were obliged to remain in the
interior of these mountains at least two thirds of the year where the
suffered as we then saw great heardships for the want of food sometimes
living for weeks without meat and only a little fish roots and berries.
but this added Cameahwait, with his ferce eyes and lank jaws grown
meager for the want of food, would not be the case if we had guns, we
could then live in the country of buffaloe and eat as our enimies do
and not be compelled to hide ourselves in these mountains and live on
roots and berries as the bear do. we do not fear our enimies when
placed on an equal footing with them. I told them that the Minnetares
Mandans & Recares of the Missouri had promised us to desist from making
war on them & that we would indevour to find the means of making the
Minnetares of fort d Prarie or as they call them Pahkees desist from
waging war against them also. that after our finally returning to our
homes towards the rising sun whitemen would come to them with an
abundance of guns and every other article necessary to their defence
and comfort, and that they would be enabled to supply themselves with
these articles on reasonable terms in exchange for the skins of the
beaver Otter and Ermin so abundant in their country. they expressed
great pleasure at this information and said they had been long anxious
to see the whitemen that traded guns; and that we might rest assured of
their friendship and that they would do whatever we wished them.

I now told Cameahwait that I wished him to speak to his people and
engage them to go with me tomorrow to the forks of Jeffersons river
where our baggage was by this time arrived with another Chief and a
large party of whitemen who would wait my return at that place. that I
wish them to take with them about 30 spare horses to transport our
baggage to this place where we would then remain sometime among them
and trade with them for horses, and finally concert our future plans
for geting on to the ocean and of the traid which would be extended to
them after our return to our homes. he complyed with my request and
made a lengthey harrangue to his village. he returned in about an hour
and a half and informed me that they would be ready to accompany me in
the morning. I promised to reward them for their trouble. Drewyer who
had had a good view of their horses estimated them at 400. most of them
are fine horses. indeed many of them would make a figure on the South
side of James River or the land of fine horses.- I saw several with
Spanish brands on them, and some mules which they informed me that they
had also obtained from the Spaniards. I also saw a bridle bit of
spanish manufactary, and sundry other articles which I have no doubt
were obtained from the same source. notwithstanding the extreem poverty
of those poor people they are very merry they danced again this evening
untill midnight. each warrior keep one ore more horses tyed by a cord
to a stake near his lodge both day and night and are always prepared
for action at a moments warning. they fight on horseback altogether.
lobserve that the large flies are extreemly troublesome to the horses
as well as ourselves.

The morning being cold and the men stif and soar from the exertions of
yesterday Capt. Clark did not set out this morning untill 7 A.M. the
river was so crooked and rapid that they made but little way at one
mile he passed a bold runing stream on Stard. which heads in a mountain
to the North, on which there is snow. this we called track Creek. it is
4 yard wide and 3 feet deep at 7 Ms. passed a stout stream which heads
in some springs under the foot of the mountains on Lard. the river near
the mountain they found one continued rapid, with was extreemly
laborious and difficult to ascend. this evening Charbono struck his
indian Woman for which Capt. C. gave him a severe repremand. Joseph and
Reubin Fields killed 4 deer and an Antelope, Capt. C. killed a buck.
several of the men have lamed themselves by various accedents in
working the canoes through this difficult part of the river, and Capt.
C. was obliged personally to assist them in this labour. they encamped
this evening on Lard. side near the rattlesnake clift

[Clark, August 14, 1805]
August 14th Wednesday 1805.
a Cold morning wind from the S. W. The Thermometer Stood at 51° a 0, at
Sunrise the morning being cold and men Stiff. I deturmind to delay &
take brackfast at the place we Encamped. we Set out at 7 oClock and
proceeded on river verry Crooked and rapid as below Some fiew trees on
the borders near the mountain, passed a bold running Stream at 1 mile
on the Stard. Side which heads in a mountain to the North on which
there is Snow passed a bold running Stream on the Lard. Side which
heads in a Spring undr. a mountain, the river near the mountain is one
continued rapid, which requres great labour to push & haul the Canoes
up. We Encamped on the Lard Side near the place the river passes thro
the mountain. I checked our interpreter for Strikeing his woman at
their Dinner.

The hunters Jo. & R. Fields killed 4 Deer & a antilope, I killed a fat
Buck in the evening, Several men have hurt themselves pushing up the
Canoes. I am oblige to a pole occasionally.

[Lewis, August 15, 1805]
Thursday August 15th 1805.
This morning I arrose very early and as hungary as a wolf. I had eat
nothing yesterday except one scant meal of the flour and berries except
the dryed cakes of berries which did not appear to satisfy my appetite
as they appeared to do those of my Indian friends. I found on enquiry
of McNeal that we had only about two pounds of flour remaining. this I
directed him to divide into two equal parts and to cook the one half
this morning in a kind of pudding with the hurries as he had done
yesterday and reserve the ballance for the evening. on this new
fashoned pudding four of us breakfasted, giving a pretty good allowance
also to the Chief who declared it the best thing he had taisted for a
long time. he took a little of the Hour in his hand, taisted and
examined very scrutinously and asked me if we made it of roots. I
explained to him the manner in which it grew. I hurried the departure
of the Indians. the Chief addressed them several times before they
would move they seemed very reluctant to accompany me. I at length
asked the reason and he told me that some foolish persons among them
had suggested the idea that we were in league with the Pahkees and had
come on in order to decoy them into an ambuscade where their enimies
were waiting to receive them. but that for his part he did not believe
it. I readily perceived that our situation was not entirely free from
danger as the transision from suspicion to the confermation of the fact
would not be very difficult in the minds of these ignorant people who
have been accustomed from their infancy to view every stranger as an
enimy. I told Cameahwait that I was sorry to find that they had put so
little confidence in us, that I knew they were not acquainted with
whitemen and therefore could forgive them. that among whitemen it was
considered disgracefull to lye or entrap an enimy by falsehood. I told
him if they continued to think thus meanly of us that they might rely
on it that no whitemen would ever come to trade with them or bring them
arms and amunition and that if the bulk of his nation still entertained
this opinion I still hoped that there were some among them that were
not affraid to die, that were men and would go with me and convince
themselves of the truth of what I had asscerted. that there was a party
of whitemen waiting my return either at the forks of Jefferson's river
or a little below coining on to that place in canoes loaded with
provisions and merchandize. he told me for his own part he was
determined to go, that he was not affraid to die. I soon found that I
had touched him on the right string; to doubt the bravery of a savage
is at once to put him on his metal. he now mounted his horse and
haranged his village a third time; the perport of which as he
afterwards told me was to inform them that he would go with us and
convince himself of the truth or falsity of what we had told him if he
was sertain he should be killed, that he hoped there were some of them
who heard him were not affraid to die with him and if there was to let
him see them mount their horses and prepare to set out. shortly after
this harange he was joined by six or eight only and with these I smoked
a pipe and directed the men to put on their packs being determined to
set out with them while I had them in the humour at half after 12 we
set out, several of the old women were crying and imploring the great
sperit to protect their warriors as if they were going to inevitable
distruction. we had not proceeded far before our party was augmented by
ten or twelve more, and before we reached the Creek which we had passed
in the morning of the 13th it appeared to me that we had all the men of
the village and a number of women with us. this may serve in some
measure to ilustrate the capricious disposition of those people who
never act but from the impulse of the moment. they were now very
cheerfull and gay, and two hours ago they looked as sirly as so many
imps of satturn. when we arrived at the spring on the side of the
mountain where we had encamped on the 12th the Chief insited on halting
to let the horses graize with which I complyed and gave the Indians
smoke. they are excessively fond of the pipe; but have it not much in
their power to indulge themselves with even their native tobacco as
they do not cultivate it themselves.- after remaining about an hour we
again set out, and by engaging to make compensation to four of them for
their trouble obtained the previlege of riding with an indian myself
and a similar situation for each of my party. I soon found it more
tiresome riding without tirrups than walking and of course chose the
latter making the Indian carry my pack. about sunset we reached the
upper part of the level valley of the Cove which now called Shoshone
Cove. the grass being birned on the North side of the river we passed
over to the south and encamped near some willow brush about 4 miles
above the narrow pass between the hills noticed as I came up this cove
the river was here about six yards wide, and frequently darned up by
the beaver. I had sent Drewyer forward this evening before we halted to
kill some meat but he was unsuccessfull and did not rejoin us untill
after dark I now cooked and among six of us eat the remaining pound of
flour stired in a little boiling water.- Capt. Clark delayed again this
morning untill after breakfast, when he set out and passed between low
and rugged mountains which had a few pine trees distributed over them
the clifts are formed of limestone and a hard black rock intermixed. no
trees on the river, the bottoms narrow river crooked shallow shoally
and rapid. the water is as coald as that of the best springs in our
country. the men as usual suffered excessively with fatiegue and the
coldness of the water to which they were exposed for hours together. at
the distance of 6 miles by water they passed the entrance of a bold
creek on Stard. side 10 yds. wide and 3 f. 3 i. deep which we called
Willard's Creek after Alexander Willard one of our party. at 4 miles by
water from their encampment of las evening passed a bold branch which
tumbled down a steep precipice of rocks from the mountains on the Lard.
Capt Clark was very near being bitten twice today by rattlesnakes, the
Indian woman also narrowly escaped. they caught a number of fine trout.
Capt. Clark killed a buck which was the only game killed today. the
venison has an uncommon bitter taist which is unpleasent. I presume it
proceeds from some article of their food, perhaps the willow on the
leaves of which they feed very much. they encamped this evening on the
Lard. side near a few cottonwood trees about which there were the
remains of several old Indian brush lodges.

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