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Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark

M >> Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark

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This morning Capt. Clark set out at sunrise and dispatched Joseph &
Reubin Fields to hunt. they killed two deer on one of which the party
breakfasted. the river today they found streighter and more rapid even
than yesterday, and the labour and difficulty of the navigation was
proportionably increased, they therefore proceeded but slowly and with
great pain as the men had become very languid from working in the water
and many of their feet swolen and so painfull that they could scarcely
walk. at 4 P.M. they arrived at the confluence of the two rivers where
I had left the note. this note had unfortunately been placed on a green
pole which the beaver had cut and carried off together with the note;
the possibility of such an occurrence never one occurred to me when I
placed it on the green pole. this accedent deprived Capt. Clark of any
information with ripect to the country and supposing that the rapid
fork was most in the direction which it was proper we should pursue, or
West, he took that stream and asscended it with much difficulty about a
mile and encamped on an island that had been lately overflown and was
yet damp; they were therefore compelled to make beds of brush to keep
themselves out of the mud. in ascending this stream for about a quarter
of a mile it scattered in such a maner that they were obliged to cut a
passage through the willow brush which leant over the little channels
and united their tops. Capt. Clarks ankle is extreemly painfull to him
this evening; the tumor has not yet mature, he has a slight fever.- The
men were so much fortiegued today that they wished much that navigation
was at an end that they might go by land.-

[Clark, August 5, 1805]
August 5th Monday 1805
a Cold Clear morning the wind from the S. E. the river Streight & much
more rapid than yesterday, I Sent out Jo. & R. Fields to kill Some meat
they killed 2 Deer & we brackfast on one of them and proceeded on with
great dificuelety from the rapidity of the Current, and numerable
rapids we had to encounter, at 4 oClock P M Murcury 49 ab. 0, passed
the mouth of principal fork which falls in on the Lard. Side, this fork
is about the Size of the Stard. one less water reather not so rapid,
its Course as far as can be Seen is S. E & appear to pass through
between two mountains, the N W. fork being the one most in our course
i. e. S 25 W. as far as I can See, deturmind me to take this fork as
the principal and the one most proper the S E fork is of a Greenish
Colour & contains but little timber. The S W fok contains more timber
than is below for Some distance, we assended this fork about one mile
and Encamped on an Island which had been laterly overflown & was wet we
raised our bead on bushes, we passed a part of the river above the
forks which was divided and Scattered thro the willows in Such a manner
as to render it dificuelt to pass through for a 1/4 of a mile, we wer
oblige to Cut our way thro the willows- Men much fatigued from their
excessive labours in hauling the Canoes over the rapids &c. verry weak
being in the water all day. my foot verry painfull

Assended the N W Fork 9 miles on a Course S. 30° W. to a Bluff on the
Stard. Side passed Several Bayous & Islands

[Lewis, August 6, 1805]
Tuesday August 6th 1805.
We set out this morning very early on our return to the forks. having
nothing to eat I set Drewyer to the woodlands to my left in order to
kill a deer, sent Sergt. Gass to the right with orders to keep
sufficiently near to discover Capt. C. and the party should they be on
their way up that stream, and with Sharbono I directed my course to the
main forks through the bottom directing the others to meet us there.
about five miles above the forks I head the hooping of the party to my
left and changed my rout towards them; on my arrival found that they
had taken the rapid fork and learnt from Capt. Clark that he had not
found the note which I had left for him at that place and the reasons
which had induced him to ascend this stream. it was easeist & more in
our direction, and apd. to contain as much water he had hoever
previously to my comeing up with him, met Drewyer who informed him of
the state of the two rivers and was on his return. one of their canoes
had just overset and all the baggage wet, the medecine box among other
articles and several articles lost a shot pouch and horn with all the
implements for one rifle lost and never recovered. I walked down to the
point where I waited their return. on their arrival found that two
other canoes had filled with water and wet their cargoes completely.
Whitehouse had been thrown out of one of the canoes as she swing in a
rapid current and the canoe had rubed him and pressed him to the bottom
as she passed over him and had the water been 2 inches shallower must
inevitably have crushed him to death. our parched meal, corn, Indian
preasents, and a great part of our most valuable stores were wet and
much damaged on this ocasion. to examine, dry and arrange our stores
was the first object; we therefore passed over to the lard. side
opposite to the entrance of the rapid fork where there was a large
gravly bar that answered our purposes; wood was also convenient and
plenty. here we fixed our camp, and unloaded all our canoes and opened
and exposed to dry such articles as had been wet. a part of the load of
each canoe consisted of the leaden canestirs of powder which were not
in least injured, tho some of them had remained upwards of an hour
under water. about 20 lbs. of powder which we had in a tight Keg or at
least one which we thought sufficiently so got wet and intirely
spoiled. this would have been the case with the other had it not have
been for the expedient which I had fallen on of securing the powder by
means of the lead having the latter formed into canesters which were
filled with the necessary proportion of poder to discharge the lead
when used, and those canesters well secured with corks and wax. in this
country the air is so pure and dry that any vessel however well
seasoned the timber may be will give way or shrink unless it is kept
full of some liquid. we found that three deer skins which we had left
at a considerable hight on a tree were taken off which we supposed had
been done by a panther. we sent out some men to hunt this evening, they
killed 3 deer and four Elk which gave us a plentifull supply of meat
once more. Shannon had been dispatched up the rapid fork this morning
to hunt, by Capt Clark before he met with Drewyer or learnt his mistake
in the rivers. when he returned he sent Drewyer in surch of him, but he
rejoined us this evening and reported that he had been several miles up
the river and could find nothing of him. we had the trumpet sounded and
fired several guns but he did not join us this evening. I am fearful he
is lost again. this is the same man who was seperated from us 15 days
as we came up the Missouri and subsisted 9 days of that time on grapes
only. Whitehouse is in much pain this evening with the injury one of
his legs sustained from the canoe today at the time it upset and swing
over him. Capt Clarks ankle is also very painfull to him.- we should
have given the party a days rest some where near this place had not
this accedent happened, as I had determined to take some observations
to fix the Latitude and longitude of these forks. our merchandize
medecine &c are not sufficiently dry this evening we covered them
securely for the evening. Capt Clark had ascended the river about 9
miles from this place on a course of S 30° W. before he met with Drewyer.

we beleive that the N. W. or rapid fork is the dane of the melting
snows of the mountains, and that it is not as long as the middle fork
and dose not at all seasons of the year supply any thing like as much
water as the other and that about this season it rises to it's greatest
hight. this last appears from the apparent bed of the river which is
now overflown and the water in many plases spreads through old channels
which have their bottoms covered with grass that has grown this season
and is such as appears on the parts of the bottom not innundated. we
therefore determined that the middle fork was that which ought of right
to bear the name we had given to the lower portion or River Jefferson
and called the bold rapid an clear stream Wisdom, and the more mild and
placid one which flows in from the S. E. Philanthrophy, in
commemoration of two of those cardinal virtues, which have so eminently
marked that deservedly selibrated character through life.

[Clark, August 6, 1805]
August 6th Tuesday 1805
a Clear morning Cool wind from the S W we proceeded on with much
dificuelty and fatigue over rapids & Stones; river about 40 or 50 yards
wide much divided by Islands and narrow Bayoos to a low bluff on the
Stard Side & Brackfast, dureing the time of Brackfast Drewyer Came to
me from Capt. Lewis and informed me that they had explored both forks
for 30 or 40 miles & that the one we were assending was impractiabl
much further up & turned imediately to the north, The middle fork he
reported was jintle and after a Short distanc turned to the S. W. and
that all the Indian roades leades up the middle fork. this report
deturmind me to take the middle fork, accordingly Droped down to the
forks where I met with Capt Lewis & party, Capt Lewis had left a Letter
on a pole in the forks informing me what he had discovered & the course
of the rivers &c. this lettr was Cut down by the beaver as it was on a
green pole & Carried off. Three Skins which was left on a tree was
taken off by the Panthers or wolvers. In decending to the Point one
Canoe Struck & turned on a rapid & Sunk, and wet every thing which was
in her, this misfortune obliged us to halt at the forks and dry those
articles, one other Canoe nearly turning over, filled half full of
water & wet our medison & Some Goods Corn &c. Several hunters out to
day & killed a young Elk, Antilope, & 3 Deer, one man Shannon did not
return to night- This evening Cool my anckle much wors than it has
been- this evening a Violent wind from the N. W accompanied with rain
which lasted half an hour wind N. W

[Lewis, August 7, 1805]
Wednesday August 7th 1805.
The morning being fair we spread our stores to dry at an early hour.
Dispatched Reubin Fields in surch of Shannon. our stores were now so
much exhausted that we found we could proceed with one canoe less. we
therefore drew out one of them into a thicket of brush and secured her
in such manner that the water could not take her off should the river
rise to the hight where she is. The creek which falls in above us we
called turf creek from the cercustance of it's bottoms being composed
of excellent turf. my air gun was out of order and her sights had been
removed by some accedent I put her in order and regulated her. she shot
again as well as she ever did. The clouds last night prevented my
taking any lunar observations this day I took Equal Altitudes of the 0
with Sextant.

At one oclock all our baggage was dry we therefore packed it up
reloaded the canoes and the party proceeded with Capt. Clark up
Jefferson's river. I remained with Sergt. Gass to complete the
observation of equal altitudes and joined them in the evening at their
camp on the Lard. side just above the entrance of turf creek. we had a
shower of rain wich continued about 40 minutes attended with thunder
and lightning. this shower wet me perfectly before I reached the camp.
the clouds continued during the night in such manner that I was unable
to obtain any lunar observations. This evening Drewyer brought in a
deer which he had killed. we have not heard any thing from Shannon yet,
we expect that he has pursued Wisdom river upwards for som distance
probably killed some heavy animal and is waiting our arrival. the large
biteing fly or hare fly as they sometimes called are very troublesome
to us. I observe two kinds of them a large black species and a small
brown species with a green head. the musquetoes are not as troublesome
as they were below, but are still in considerable quantities. the eye
knats have disappeared. the green or blowing flies are still in swarms.

r the courses from the entrance of Wisdom river to the forks of
Jefferson's river are taken directly to the objects mentioned and the
distance set down is that by land on a direct line between the points;
the estimated distances by water is also added in the body of the
remarks on each course.

[Clark, August 7, 1805]
August 7th Wednesday 1805
a fine morning put out our Stores &c. to dry & took equal altitudes
with the Sextant,- as our Store were a little exorsted and one Canoe
became unnecessary deturmind to leave one. we Hauled her up in the
bushes on the lower Side of the main fork & fastened her So that the
water could not flote her off. The Countrey in this quarter is as
follows i, e a Vallie of 5 or 6 miles wide Inclosed between two high
Mountains, the bottom rich Some Small timber on the Islands & bushes on
the edges of the river Some Bogs & verry good turf in different places
in the vallie, Some scattering Pine & ceder on the mountains in places,
other Parts nacked except grass and Stone The Lattitude of the Mouth of
Wisdom River is 45° 2' 21.6" North, we proceeded up the Main Middle or S.
E. fork, passed a Camped on the Lard. Side above the mouth of a bold
running Stream 12 yards wide, which we call turf Creek from the number
of bogs & quanty of turf in its waters. this Creek runs thro a open
Plain for Several miles, takeing its rise in a high mountain to the N
E. The river Jefferson above Wisdom is gentle Crooked and about 40
yards wide, Containing but little timber, Some few Cotton willow Willow
& Birch, and the Srubs common to the countrey and before mentioned at 5
oClock a thunder Storm from the N. W. accompanied with rain which
lasted about 40 minits.- despatched R Fields to hunt Shannon, who was
out huntg. on Wisdom river at the time I returned down that Stream, and
has made on up the river expecting us to follow him up that river one
Deer killed this evening. all those Streams Contain emence number of
Beaver orter Muskrats &c.

[Lewis, August 8, 1805]
Thursday August 8th 1805.
We had a heavy dew this morning. as one canoe had been left we had now
more hads to spear for the chase; game being scarce it requires more
hunters to supply us. we therefore dispatched four this morning. we set
out at sunrise and continued our rout up the river which we find much
more gentle and deep than below the entrance of Wisdom river it is from
35 to 45 yards wide very crooked many short bends constituteing large
and general bends; insomuch that altho we travel briskly and a
considerable distance yet it takes us only a few miles on our general
course or rout. there is but very little timber on this fork
principally the under brush frequently mentioned. I observe a
considerable quantity of the buffaloe clover in the bottoms. the
sunflower, flax, green swoard, thistle and several species of the rye
grass some of which rise to the hight of 3 or 4 feet. there is a grass
also with a soft smooth leaf that bears it's seeds very much like the
timothy but it dose not grow very luxouriant or appear as if it would
answer so well as the common timothy for meadows. I preserved some of
it's seeds which are now ripe, thinking perhaps it might answer better
if cultivated, at all events is at least worth the experi-ment. it
rises about 3 feet high. on a direct line about 2 miles above our
encampment of this morning we passed the entrance of Philanthrophy
River which discharges itself by 2 channels a small distance assunder.
this river from it's size and S. Eastwardly course no doubt heads with
Madisons river in the snowey mountains visible in that direction. at
Noon Reubin Fields arrived and reported that he had been up Wisdom
river some miles above where it entered the mountain and could find
nothing of Shannon, he had killed a deer and an Antelope. great
quantity of beaver Otter and musk-rats in these rivers. two of the
hunters we sent out this morning returned at noon had killed each a
deer and an Antelope. we use the seting poles today almost altogether.
we encamped on the Lard sides where there was but little timber were
obliged to use willow brush for fuel; the rosebushes and bryers were
very thick. the hunters brought in another deer this evening. to tumor
on Capt. Clarks ankle has discharged a considerable quantity of matter
but is still much swolen and inflamed and gives him considerable pain.
saw a number of Gees ducks and some Crains today. the former begin to
fly.

the evening again proved cloudy much to my mortification and prevented
my making any lunar observations. the Indian woman recognized the point
of a high plain to our right which she informed us was not very distant
from the summer retreat of her nation on a river beyond the mountains
which runs to the west. this hill she says her nation calls the
beaver's head from a conceived remblance of it's figure to the head of
that animal. she assures us that we shall either find her people on
this river or on the river immediately west of it's source; which from
it's present size cannot be very distant. as it is now all important
with us to meet with those people as soon as possible, I determined to
proceed tomorrow with a small party to the source of the principal
stream of this river and pass the mountains to the Columbia; and down
that river untill I found the Indians; in short it is my resolusion to
find them or some others, who have horses if it should cause me a trip
of one month. for without horses we shall be obliged to leave a great
part of our stores, of which, it appears to me that we have a stock
already sufficiently small for the length of the voyage before us.

[Clark, August 8, 1805]
August 8th Thursday 1805
We proceeded on early wind from the S W. The Thermometer at 52 a 0 at
Sunrise at 5 miles by water & 41/2 on a derect line from the forks we
passed a River on the Lard Side 30 yards wide and navagable for Some
distance takeing its rise in the Mountains Easterly & with the waters
of Madisons River, passes thro an extensive vallie open & furtill &c.
this river we call Philanthophy- above this river (which has but little
timber) Jeffersons R is crooked with Short bends a fiew Islands and
maney gravelly Sholes, no large timber, Small willow Birch & Srubs &c.
Encamped on the Lard Side, R Fields joined us this eveng. & informes
that he could not find Shannon my foot yet verry Swore

[Lewis, August 9, 1805]
Friday August 9th 1805.
The morning was fair and fine; we set out at an early hour and
proceeded on very well. some parts of the river more rapid than
yesterday. I walked on shore across the land to a point which I
presumed they would reach by 8 A.M. our usual time of halting. by this
means I acquired leasure to accomplish some wrightings which I
conceived from the nature of my instructions necessary lest any
accedent should befall me on the long and reather hazardous rout I was
now about to take. the party did not arrive and I returned about a mile
and met them, here they halted and we breakefasted; I had killed two
fine gees on my return. while we halted here Shannon arrived, and
informed us that having missed the party the day on which he set out he
had returned the next morning to the place from whence he had set out
or furst left them and not finding that he had supposed that they wer
above him; that he then set out and marched one day up wisdom river, by
which time he was convinced that they were not above him as the river
could not be navigated; he then returned to the forks and had pursued
us up this river. he brought the skins of three deer which he had
killed which he said were in good order. he had lived very plentifully
this trip but looked a good deel worried with his march. he informed us
that Wisdom river still kept it's course obliquely down the Jefferson's
river as far as he was up it. immediately after breakfast I slung my
pack and set out accompanyed by Drewyer Shields and McNeal who had been
previously directed to hold themselves in readiness for this service. I
directed my course across the bottom to the Stard. plain led left the
beaver's head about 2 miles to my left and interscepted the river about
8 miles from the point at which I had left it; I then waded it and
continued my rout to the point where I could observe that it entered
the mountain, but not being able to reach that place, changed my
direction to the river which I struck some miles below the mountain and
encamped for the evening having traveled 16 M. we passed a handsom
little stream formed by some large spring which rise in this wide
bottom on the Lard. side of the river. we killed two Antelopes on our
way and brought with us as much meat as was necessary for our suppers
and breakfast the next morning. we found this bottom fertile and
covered with taller grass than usual. the river very crooked much
divided by islands, shallow rocky in many plases and very rapid;
insomuch that I have my doubts whether the canoes could get on or not,
or if they do it must be with great labour.- Capt. Clark proceeded
after I left him as usual, found the current of the river increasing in
rapidity towards evening. his hunters killed 2 antelopes only. in the
evening it clouded up and we experienced a slight rain attended with
some thunder and lightning. the musquetoes very troublesome this
evening. there are some soft bogs in these vallies covered with turf.
the earth of which this mud is composed is white or bluish white and
appears to be argillacious.

[Clark, August 9, 1805]
August 9th Friday 1805
a fine morning wind from the N. E we proceeded on verry well rapid
places more noumerous than below, Shannon the man whome we lost on
Wisdom River Joined us, haveing returned to the forks & prosued us up
after prosueing Wisdom River one day

Capt Lewis and 3 men Set out after brackft. to examine the river above,
find a portage if possible, also the Snake Indians. I Should have taken
this trip had I have been able to march, from the rageing fury of a
turner on my anckle musle, in the evening Clouded up and a fiew drops
of rain Encamped on the Lard Side near a low bluff, the river to day as
yesterday. the three hunters Could kill only two antelopes to day, game
of every kind Scerce

[Lewis, August 10, 1805]
Saturday August 10th 1805.
We set out very early this morning and continued our rout through the
wide bottom on the Lard. side of the river after passing a large creek
at about 5 miles we fel in with a plain Indian road which led towards
the point that the river entered the mountain we therefore pursued the
road I sent Drewyer to the wright to kill a deer which we saw feeding
and halted on the river under an immencely high perpendicular clift of
rocks where it entered the mountain here we kindled a fire and waited
for Drewyer. he arrived in about an hour and a half or at noon with
three deer skins and the flesh of one of the best of them, we cooked
and eat a haisty meal and departed, returning a shot distance to the
Indian road which led us the best way over the mountains, which are not
very high but ar ruggid and approach the river closely on both sides
just below these mountains I saw several bald Eagles and two large
white headed fishinghawks boath these birds were the same common to our
country.

from the number of rattle snakes about the Clifts at which we halted we
called them the rattle snake clifts. this serpent is the same before
discribed with oval spots of yellowish brown. the river below the
mountains is rapid rocky, very crooked, much divided by islands and
withal shallow. after it enters the mountains it's bends are not so
circuetous and it's general course more direct, but it is equally
shallow les divided more rocky and rapid. we continued our rout along
the Indian road which led us sometimes over the hills and again in the
narrow bottoms of the river till at the distance of fifteen Ms. from
the rattle snake Clifts we arrived in a hadsome open and leavel vally
where the river divided itself nearly into two equal branches; here I
halted and examined those streams and readily discovered from their
size that it would be vain to attempt the navigation of either any
further. here also the road forked one leading up the vally of each of
these streams. I therefore sent Drewer on one and Shields on the other
to examine these roads for a short distance and to return and compare
their information with respect to the size and apparent plainness of
the roads as I was now determined to pursue that which appeared to have
been the most traveled this spring. in the mean time I wrote a note to
Capt. Clark informing him of the occurrences which had taken place,
recommending it to him to halt at this place untill my return and
informing him of the rout I had taken which from the information of the
men on their return seemed to be in favour of the S W or Left hand fork
which is reather the smallest. accordingly I put up my note on a dry
willow pole at the forks, and set out up the S. E. fork, after
proceeding about 11/2 miles I discovered that the road became so blind
that it could not be that which we had followed to the forks of
Jefferson's river, neither could I find the tracks of the horses which
had passed early in the spring along the other; I therefore determined
to return and examine the other myself, which I did, and found that the
same horses had passed up the West fork which was reather largest, and
more in the direction that I wished to pursue; I therefore did not
hesitate about changing my rout but determined to take the western
road. I now wrote a second note to Capt C. informing him of this change
and sent Drewyer to put it with the other at the forks and waited
untill he returned. there is scarcely any timber on the river above the
R. Snake Clifts, nor is there anything larger than willow brush in
sight of these forks. immediately in the level plain between the forks
and about 1/2 a mile distance from them stands a high rocky mountain,
the base of which is surrounded by the level plain; it has a singular
appearance. the mountains do not appear very high in any direction tho
the tops of some of them are partially covered with snow. this
convinces me that we have ascended to a great hight since we have
entered the rocky Mountains, yet the ascent has been so gradual along
the vallies that it was scarcely perceptable by land. I do not beleive
that the world can furnish an example of a river runing to the extent
which the Missouri and Jefferson's rivers do through such a mountainous
country and at the same time so navigable as they are. if the Columbia
furnishes us such another example, a communication across the continent
by water will be practicable and safe. but this I can scarcely hope
from a knowledge of its having in it comparitively short course to the
ocean the same number of feet to decend which the Missouri and
Mississippi have from this point to the Gulph of Mexico.

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