Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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[Clark, August 1, 1805]
August 1st Wednesday 1805
A fine day Capt. Lewis left me at 8 oClock just below the place I
entered a verrey high mountain which jutted its tremedious Clifts on
either Side for 9 Miles, the rocks ragide Some verry dark & other part
verry light rock the light rocks is Sand Stone. The water Swift & very
Sholey. I killed a Ibix on which the whole party Dined, after passing
through the Mountain we entered a wide extesive vallie of from 4 to 8
Miles wide verry leavell a Creek falls in at the Commencement of this
Vallie on the Lard Side, the river widens & spreds into Small Chanels.
We encamped on the Lard Side opposit a large Creek I sent out Jo. & R
fields to hunt this evening they killed 5 Deer, I saw a large Bear
eateing Currents this evining The river so rapid that the greatest
exertion is required by all to get the boats on wind S W Murckery at
sun rise 50° Ab. 0
[Lewis, August 2, 1805]
August 2nd 1805.
We resumed our march this morning at sunrise the weather was fair and
wind from N. W. finding that the river still boar to the south I
determined to pass it if possible to shorten our rout this we effected
about five miles above our camp of last evening by wading it. found the
current very rappid about 90 yards wide and waist deep this is the
first time that I ever dared to make the attempt to wade the river, tho
there are many places between this and the three forks where I presume
it migh be attempted with equal success. the valley though which our
rout of this day lay and through which the river winds it's meandering
course is a beatifull level plain with but little timber and that on
the verge of the river. the land is tolerably fertile, consisting of a
black or dark yellow loam, and covered with grass from 9 Inches to 2
feet high. the plain ascends gradually on either side of the river to
the bases of two ranges of mountains which ly parrallel to the river
and which terminate the width of the vally. the tops of these mountains
were yet partially covered with snow while we in the valley. were
suffocated nearly with the intense heat of the midday sun. the nights
are so could that two blankets are not more than sufficient covering.
we found a great courants, two kinds of which were red, others yellow
deep purple and black, also black goosburies and service buries now
ripe and in full perfection, we feasted suptuously on our wild fruit
particularly the yellow courant and the deep purple servicebury which I
found to be excellent the courrant grows very much like the red currant
common to the gardens in the atlantic states tho the leaf is somewhat
different and the growth taller. the service burry grows on a smaller
bush and differs from ours only in colour and the superior excellence
of it's flavor and size, it is of a deep purple. this day we saw an
abundance of deer and goats or antelopes and a great number of the
tracks of Elk; of the former we killed two. we continued our rout along
this valley which is from six to eight Miles wide untill sun set when
we encamped for the night on the river bank having traveled about 24
miles. I feel myself perfectly recovered of my indisposition and do not
doubt being able to pursue my march with equal comfort in the morning.
[Lewis, August 2, 1805]
Friday August 2cd 1805.
We resumed our march this morning at sunrise; the day was fair and wind
from N. W. finding that the river still boar to the South I determined
to pass it if possible in order to shorten our rout; this we effected
by wading the river about 5 miles above our encampment of the last
evening. we found the current very rapid waist deep and about 90 yd.
wide bottom smooth pebble with a small mixture of coarse gravel. this
is the first time that I ever dared to wade the river, tho there are
many places between this and the forks where I presume it might be
attempted with equal success. The vally allong which we passed today,
and through which the river winds it's meandering course is from 6 to 8
miles wide and consists of a beatifull level plain with but little
timber and that confined to the verge of the river; the land is
tolerably fertile, and is either black or a dark yellow loam, covered
with grass from 9 inches to 2 feet high. the plain ascends gradually on
either side of the river to the bases of two ranges of high mountains,
which lye parallel to the river and prescribe the limits of the plains.
the tops of these mountains are yet covered partially with snow, while
we in the valley are nearly suffocated with the intense heat of the
midday sun; the nights are so cold that two blankets are not more than
sufficient covering. soon after passing the river this morning Sergt.
Gass lost my tommahawk in the thick brush and we were unable to find
it, I regret the loss of this usefull implement, however accedents will
happen in the best families, and I consoled myself with the
recollection that it was not the only one we had with us. the bones of
the buffaloe and their excrement of an old date are to be met with in
every part of this valley but we have long since lost all hope of
meeting with that animal in these mountains. we met with great
quantities of currants today, two species of which were red, others
yellow, deep perple and black; also black goosberries and
serviceberries now ripe and in great perfection. we feasted sumptuously
on our wild fruits, particularly the yellow currant and the deep perple
serviceberries, which I found to be excellent. the serviceberry grows
on a small bush and differs from ours only in colour size and superior
excellence of it's flavour. it is somewhat larger than ours. on our way
we saw an abundance of deer Antelopes, of the former we killed 2. we
also saw many tracks of the Elk and bear. no recent appearance of
Indians. the Indians in this part of the country appear to construct
their lodges with the willow boughs and brush; they are small of a
conic figure and have a small aperture on one side through which they
enter. we continued our rout up this valley on the Lard. side of the
river untill sunset, at which time we encamped on the Lard. bank of the
river having traveled 24 miles. we had brought with us a good stock of
venison of which we eat a hearty supper. I feel myself perfectly
recovered of my indisposition, and do not doubt being able to pursue my
rout tomorrow with the same comfort I have done today.- we saw some
very large beaver dams today in the bottoms of the river several of
which wer five feet high and overflowed several acres of land; these
dams are formed of willow brush mud and gravel and are so closely
interwoven that they resist the water perfectly. the base of this work
is thick and rises nearly perpendicularly on the lower side while the
upper side or that within the dam is gently sloped. the brush appear to
be laid in no regular order yet acquires a strength by the irregularity
with which they are placed by the beaver that it would puzzle the
engenuity of man to give them.
Capt. Clark continued his rout early this morning. the rapidity of the
current was such that his progress was slow, in short it required the
utmost exertion of the men to get on, nor could they resist this
current by any other means than that of the cord and pole. in the
course of the day they passed some villages of burrowing squirrels, saw
a number of beaver dams and the inhabitants of them, many young ducks
both of the Duckanmallard and the redheaded fishing duck, gees, several
rattle snakes, black woodpeckers, and a large gang of Elk; they found
the river much crouded with island both large and small and passed a
small creek on Stard. side which we called birth Creek. Capt. Clark
discovers a tumor rising on the inner side of his ankle this evening
which was painfull to him. they incamped in a level bottom on the Lard.
side.-
[Clark, August 2, 1805]
August 2nd Friday 1805
a fine day Set out early the river has much the Same kind of banks
Chanel Current &c. as it had in the last vallie, I walked out this
morning on Shore & Saw Several rattle Snakes in the plain, the wind
from the S W we proceeded on with great dificuelty from the rapidity of
the current & rapids, abt. 15 miles and Encamped on the Lard Side, saw
a large Gangue of Elk at Sunset to the S W. passed a Small Creek on the
Stard Side and maney large and Small Islands. Saw a number of young
Ducks as we have also Seen everry Day, Some geese I saw Black
woodpeckers- I have either got my foot bitten by Some poisonous insect
or a turner is riseing on the inner bone of my ankle which is painfull
[Lewis, August 3, 1805]
August the 3rd 1805.
Set out this morning at sunrise and continued our rout through the
valley on the Lard. side of the river. at eleven A.M. Drewyer killed a
doe and we halted and took breakfast. the mountains continue high on
either side of the valley, and are but skantily supplyed with timber;
small pine appears to be the prevalent growth. there is no timber in
the valley except a small quantity of the narrow leafed cottonwood on
the verge of the river. the underwood consists of the narrowleafed or
small willow, honeysuckle rosebushes, courant, goosbury and service
bury bushes allso a small quantity of a species of dwarf burch the leaf
of which, oval, deep green, finely indented and very small. we encamped
this evening after sunset having traveled by estimate 23 miles. from
the width and appearance of the valley at this place I concieved that
the river forked not far above me and therefore resolved the next
morning to examine the adjacent country more minutely.
[Lewis, August 3, 1805]
Saturday August 3rd 1805.
Set out early this morning, or before sunrise; still continued our
march through the level valley on the lard. side of the river. the
valley much as yesterday only reather wider; I think it 12 Miles wide,
tho the plains near the mountains rise higher and are more broken with
some scattering pine near the mountain. in the leaveler parts of the
plain and river bottoms which are very extensive there is no timber
except a scant proportion of cottonwood neat the river. the under wood
consists of the narrow leafed or small willow, the small honeysuckle,
rosebushes, currant, serviceberry, and goosbery bushes; also a small
species of berth in but small quantities the leaf which is oval finely,
indented, small and of a deep green colour. the stem is simple
ascending and branching, and seldom rises higher than 10 or 12 feet.
the Mountains continue high on either side of the valley, and are but
scantily supplyed with timber; small pine apears to be the prevalent
growth; it is of the pith kind, with a short leaf. at 11 A.M. Drewyer
killed a doe and we halted about 2 hours and breakfasted, and then
continued our rout untill night without halting, when we arrived at the
river in a level bottom which appeared to spread to greater extent than
usual. from the appearance of the timber I supposed that the river
forked above us and resolved to examine this part of the river minutely
tomorrow. this evening we passed through a high plain for about 8 miles
covered with prickley pears and bearded grass, tho we found this even
better walking than the wide bottoms of the river, which we passed in
the evening; these altho apparently level, from some cause which I know
not, were formed into meriads of deep holes as if rooted up by hogs
these the grass covered so thick that it was impossible to walk without
the risk of falling down at every step. some parts of these bottoms
also possess excellent terf or peat, I beleive of many feet deep. the
mineral salts also frequently mentioned on the Missouri we saw this
evening in these uneven bottoms. we saw many deer, Antelopes ducks,
gees, some beaver and great appearance of their work. also a small bird
and the Curlooe as usual. we encamped on the river bank on Lard. side
having traveled by estimate 23 Miles. The fish of this part of the
river are trout and a species of scale fish of a white colour and a
remarkable small long mouth which one of our men inform us are the same
with the species called in the Eastern states bottlenose. the snowey
region of the mountains and for some distance below has no timber or
herbage of any kind; the timber is confined to the lower and middle
regions. Capt. Clark set out this morning as usual. he walked on shore
a small distance this morning and killed a deer. in the course of his
walk he saw a track which he supposed to be that of an Indian from the
circumstance of the large toes turning inward. he pursued the track and
found that the person had ascended a point of a hill from which his
camp of the last evening was visible; this circumstance also confirmed
the beleif of it's being an Indian who had thus discovered them and ran
off. they found the river as usual much crouded with islands, the
currant more rapid & much more shallow than usual. in many places they
were obliged to double man the canoes and drag them over the stone and
gravel. this morning they passed a small creek on Stard. at the
entrance of which Reubin Fields killed a large Panther. we called the
creek after that animal Panther Creek. they also passed a handsome
little stream on Lard. which is form of several large springs which
rise in the bottoms and along the base of the mountains with some
little rivulets from the melting snows. the beaver have formed many
large dams on this stream. they saw some deer Antelopes and the common
birds of the country. in the evening they passed a very bad rappid
where the bed of the river is formed entrely of solid rock and encamped
on an island just above. the Panther which Fields killed measured seven
and 1/2 feet from the nose to the extremity of the tail. it is precisely
the same animal common to the western part of our country. the men wer
compelled to be a great proportion of their time in the water today;
they have had a severe days labour and are much fortiegued.
[Clark, August 3, 1805]
August 3rd Saturday1805
a fine morning wind from the N E I walked on Shore & killed a Deer in
my walk I saw a fresh track which I took to be an Indian from the Shape
of the foot as the toes turned in, I think it probable that this Indian
Spied our fires and Came to a Situation to view us from the top of a
Small knob on the Lard Side. the river more rapid and Sholey than
yesterday one R. F. man killed a large Panthor on the Shore we are
oblige to haul over the Canoes Sholey in maney places where the Islands
are noumerous and bottom Sholey, in the evening the river more rapid
and Sholey we encamped on an Island avove a part of the river which
passed thro a rockey bed enclosed on both sides with thick willow
current & red buries &c &c passed a bold Stream which heads in the
mountains to our right and the drean of the minting Snow in the Montn.
on that side ar in View- at 4 oClock passed a bold Stream which falls
from a mountn in three Channels to our left, the Greater portion of the
Snow on this mountain is melted, but little remaining near us Some Deer
Elk & antelopes & Bear in the bottoms. but fiew trees and they Small
the Mountains on our left Contain pine those on our right but verry
partially Supplied and what pine & cedar it has is on the Lower region,
no wood being near the Snow. great numbers of Beaver Otter &c. Some
fish trout & and bottle nose. Birds as usial. Geese young Ducks &
Curlows
[Lewis, August 4, 1805]
August 4th 1805.
Set out very early this morning and steered S. E. by E. about 4 Miles
when we passed a bould runing creek about 12 yards wide the water could
and remarkably clear, we then changed our course to S. E. passing
obliquely across a valley which boar nearly E leaving the valley which
we had pursued for the 2 precedeing days. at the distance of 3 miles we
passed a handsome little river which passes through this valley; it is
about 30 yards wide affords a considerable quantity of water and I
believe it may be navigated some miles. I then changed my rout to S. W.
passed a high plain which lyes between the vallies and returned to the
S. valley, in passing which I fell in with a river about 45 yards wide
which I waideg and then continued my rout down to it's junction with
the river just mentioned, and from thence to the entrance of the creek
which falls in about 2 miles below; still continuing my rout down this
stream about three miles further and about 2 M. below our encampment of
the last evening this river forms a junction with a river 50 yards wide
which comes from the N. W. and falling into the S. valley runs
parrallel with the middle fork about 12 miles. this is a bould rappid &
clear stream it's bed so broken and obstructed by gravel bars and
Islands that it appeared to me impossible to navigate it with safety.
the middle fork is gentle and possesses about 2/3ds as much water as
this rappid stream, it's cours so far as I can observe it is about S.
W. and it appears to be navigable; its water is much warmer than that
of the rappid fork and somewhat turbid, from which I concluded that it
had it's source at a greater distance in the mountains and passed
through an opener country than the other. under this impression I wrote
a note to Capt. Clark recommending his taking the middle fork provided
he should arrive at this place before my return which I expect will be
the day after tomorrow. the note I left on a pole at the forks of the
river and having refreshed ourselves and eat heartily of some venison
we killed this morning I continued my rout up the Stard side of the N.
W. fork, determining to pursue it untill 12 OC. the next day and then
pass over to the middle fork and return to their junction or untill I
met Capt. Clark. we encamped this evening near the point where the
river leaves the valley and enters the mountains, having traveled about
20 miles.-
[Lewis, August 4, 1805]
Sunday August 4th 1805.
Set out very early this morning and Steered S. E. by E. 4 M. when we
pased a bold runing Creek 12 yds. wide, the water of which was clear
and very cold. it appears to be formed by four dranes from the snowey
mountains to our left. after passing this creek we changed our
direction to S. E. passing obliquely across a valley which boar E
leaving the valley we had pursued for the two peceeding days. at the
distance of 3 Ms. we passed a handsome little river which meanders
through this valley; it is about 30 yds wide, affords a considerable
quantity of water and appears as if it might be navigated some miles.
the currant is not rapid nor the water very clear; the banks are low
and the bed formed of stone and gravel. I now changed my rout to S. W.
passed a high plain which lies betwen the valleies and returned to the
South valley, in passing which I fell in with a river about 45 yds.
wide gravley bottom gentle currant waist deep and water of a whitish
blue tinge. this stream we waded and continued our rout down it to the
entrance of the river just mentioned about 3/4 of a mile. still
continuing down we passed the entrance of the creek about 2 miles lower
down; and at the distance of three miles further arrived at it's
junction with a river 50 yds. wide which Comes from the S. W. and
falling into the South valley runs parallel with the middle fork about
12 miles before it forms a junction. I now found that our encampment of
the last evening was about 11/2 miles above the entrance of this large
river on Stard. this is a bold rappid and Clear Stream, it's bed so
much broken and obstructed by gravley bars and it's waters so much
subdivided by Islands that it appears to me utterly impossible to
navigate it with safety. the middle fork is gentle and possesses about
2/3rds as much water as this stream. it's course so far as I can
observe it is about S. W., and from the opening of the valley I beleive
it still bears more to the West above it may be safely navigated. it's
water is much warmer then the rapid fork and it's water more turbid;
from which I conjecture that it has it's sources at a greater distance
in the mountains and passes through an opener country than the other.
under this impression I wrote a note to Capt Clark, recommending his
taking the middle fork povided he should arrive at this place before my
return, which I expect will be the day after tomorrow. this note I left
on a pole at the forks of the river, and having refreshed ourselves and
eat heartily of some venison which we killed this morning we continued
our rout up the rapid fork on the Stard side, resolving to pursue this
stream untill noon tomorrow and then pass over to the middle fork and
come down it to their junction or untill I meet Capt Clark. I have seen
no recent Indian sign in the course of my rout as yet. Charbono
complains much of his leg, and is the cause of considerable detention
to us. we encamped on the river bank near the place at which it leaves
the valley and enters the mountain having traveled about 23 miles. we
saw some Antelopes deer Grains, gees, and ducks of the two species
common to this country. the summer duck has ceased to appear, nor do I
beleive it is an inhabitant of this part of the country. the timber &c
is as heretofore tho there is more in this valley on the rapid fork
than we have seen in the same extent on the river since we entered this
valley. the Indians appear on some parts of the river to have distroyed
a great proportion of the little timber which there is by seting fire
to the bottoms. This morning Capt. Clark set out at sunrise, and sent
two hunters ahead to kill some meat. at 8 A.M. he arrived at my camp of
the 2ed inst. where he breakfasted; here he found a note which I had
left for him at that place informing him of the occurences of my rout
&c. the river continued to be crouded with Islands, rapid and shoaly.
these shoals or riffles succeeded each other every 3 or four hundred
yards; at those places they are obliged to drag the canoes over the
stone there not being water enough to float them, and betwen the riffles
the current is so strong that they are compelled to have cecourse to
the cord; and being unable to walk on the shore for the brush wade in
the river along the shore and hawl them by the cord; this has increased
the pain and labour extreemly; their feet soon get tender and soar by
wading and walking over the stones. these are also so slipry that they
frequently get severe falls. being constantly wet soon makes them feble
also. their hunters killed 2 deer today and some gees and ducks wer
killed by those who navigated the canoes. they saw deer antelopes
Grains beaver Otter &c. Capt. Clark's ancle became so painfull to him
that he was unable to walk.- This evening they encamped on the Stard.
side in a bottom of cottonwood timber all much fatiegued.
[Clark, August 4, 1805]
August 4th Sunday 1805
a fine morning cool proceeded on verry early and Brackfast at the Camp
Capt Lewis left yesterday morning, at this Camp he left a note
informing that he discovered no fresh Sign of Indians &c. The river
continued to be crouded with Islands Sholey rapid & clear, I could not
walk on Shore to day as my ankle was Sore from a turner on that part.
the method we are compelled to take to get on is fatigueing & laborious
in the extreen, haul the Canoes over the rapids, which Suckceed each
other every two or three hundred yards and between the water rapid
oblige to towe & walke on Stones the whole day except when we have
poleing men wet all day Sore feet &c. &c Murcury at Sun rise 49 a. 0,
[Lewis, August 5, 1805]
Monday August 5th 1805
As Charbono complained of being unable to march far today I ordered him
and Sergt. Gass to pass the rappid river near our camp and proceed at
their leasure through the level bottom to a point of high timber about
seven miles distant on the middle fork which was in view; I gave them
my pack that of Drewyer and the meat which we had, directing them to
remain at that place untill we joined them. I took Drewyer with me and
continued my rout up the stard. side of the river about 4 miles and
then waded it; found it so rapid and shallow that it was impossible to
navigate it. continued up it on the Lard. side about 11/2 miles further
when the mountains put in close on both sides and arrose to great
hight, partially covered with snow. from hence the course of the river
was to the East of North. I took the advantage of a high projecting
spur of the mountain which with some difficulty we ascended to it's
summit in about half an hour. from this eminance I had a pleasing view
of the valley through which I had passed many miles below and the
continuation of the middle fork through the valley equally wide above
me to the distance of about 20 miles when that also appeared to enter
the mountains and disappeared to my view; however the mountains which
termineate the valley in this direction appeared much lower than those
up either of the other forks. on the rapid fork they appeared still to
rise the one range towering above another as far as I could perceive
them. the middle fork as I suspected dose bear considerably to the West
of South and the gap formed by it in the mountains after the valley
terminates is in the same direction. under these circumstances I did
not hesitate in beleiving the middle fork the most proper for us to
ascend. about South from me, the middle fork approached within about 5
miles. I resolved to pass across the plains to it and return to Gass
and Charbono, accordingly we set out and decended the mountain among
some steep and difficult precipices of rocks. here Drewyer missed his
step and had a very dangerous fall, he sprained one of his fingers and
hirt his leg very much. in fifteen or 20 minutes he was able to proceed
and we continued our rout to the river where we had desighned to
interscept it. I quenched my thirst and rested a few minutes examined
the river and found it still very navi-gable. an old indian road very
large and plain leads up this fork, but I could see no tracks except
those of horses which appeared to have passed early in the spring. as
the river mad a great bend to the South East we again ascended the high
plain and steered our course as streight as we could to the point where
I had directed Gass and Sharbono to remain. we passed the plain
regained the bottom and struck the river about 3 miles above them; by
this time it was perfectly dark & we hooped but could hear no tidings
of them. we had struck the river at the point of timber to which I had
directed them, but having mistaken a point of woods lower down, had
halted short of the place. we continued our rout after dark down the
bottom through thick brush of the pulppy leafed thorn and prickly pears
for about 2 hours when we arrived at their camp. they had a small
quantity of meat left which Drewyer and myself eat it being the first
we had taisted today. we had traveled about 25 miles. I soon laid down
and slept very soundly untill morning. I saw no deer today nor any game
except a few Antelopes which were very shy. the soil of the plains is a
light yellow clay very meager and intermixed with a large proportion of
gravel, producing nothing except the twisted or bearded grass, sedge
and prickly pears. the dryer parts of the bottoms are also much more
indifferent in point of soil to those below and are covered with the
southernwood pulpy leafed thorn and prickley pears with but little
grass. the moist parts are fertile and covered with fine grass and sand
rushes.
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118 |
119 |
120 |
121 |
122 |
123 |
124 |
125 |
126 |
127 |
128 |
129 |
130 |
131 |
132 |
133 |
134 |
135