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Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark

M >> Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark

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[Clark, July 27, 1805]
July 27th Saturday 1805
I was verry unwell all last night with a high fever & akeing in all my
bones. my fever &c. continus, deturmind to prosue my intended rout to
the middle fork, accordingly Set out in great pain across a Prarie 8
miles to the Middle this fork is nearly as large as the North fork &
appears to be more rapid, we examined and found no fresh Sign of
Indians, and after resting about an hour, proceeded down to the
junction thro a wide bottom which appears to be overflown every year, &
maney parts Stoney this river has Several Islands and number of beaver
& orter, but little timber. we could See no fresh Sign of Indians just
above the Point I found Capt Lewis encamped haveing arrived about 2
oClock. Several Deer killed this evening. I continue to be verry unwell
fever verry high; take 5 of rushes pills & bathe my feet & legs in hot
water

[Lewis, July 28, 1805]
Sunday July 28th 1805.
My friend Capt. Clark was very sick all last night but feels himself
somwhat better this morning since his medicine has opperated. I
dispatched two men early this morning up the S. E. Fork to examine the
river; and permitted sundry others to hunt in the neighbourhood of this
place. Both Capt. C. and myself corrisponded in opinon with rispect to
the impropriety of calling either of these streams the Missouri and
accordingly agreed to name them after the President of the United
States and the Secretaries of the Treasury and state having previously
named one river in honour of the Secretaries of War and Navy. In
pursuance of this resolution we called the S. W. fork, that which we
meant to ascend, Jefferson's River in honor of Thomas Jefferson. the
Middle fork we called Madison's River in honor of James Madison, and
the S. E. Fork we called Gallitin's River in honor of Albert Gallitin.
the two first are 90 yards wide and the last is 70 yards. all of them
run with great valocity and thow out large bodies of water. Gallitin's
River is reather more rapid than either of the others, is not quite as
deep but from all appearances may be navigated to a considerable
distance. Capt. C. who came down Madison's river yesterday and has also
seen Jefferson's some distance thinks Madison's reather the most rapid,
but it is not as much so by any means as Gallitin's. the beds of all
these streams are formed of smooth pebble and gravel, and their waters
perfectly transparent; in short they are three noble streams. there is
timber enough here to support an establishment, provided it be erected
with brick or stone either of which would be much cheaper than wood as
all the materials for such a work are immediately at the spot. there
are several small sand-bars along the shores at no great distance of
very pure sand and the earth appears as if it would make good brick. I
had all our baggage spread out to dry this morning; and the day proving
warm, I had a small bower or booth erected for the comfort of Capt. C.
our leather lodge when exposed to the sun is excessively hot. I observe
large quantities of the sand rush in these bottoms which grow in many
places as high as a man's breast and stand as thick as the stalks of
wheat usually do. this affords one of the best winter pastures on earth
for horses or cows, and of course will be much in favour of an
establishment should it ever be thought necessary to fix one at this
place. the grass is also luxouriant and would afford a fine swarth of
hay at this time in parsels of many acres together. all those who are
not hunting altho much fatiegued are busily engaged in dressing their
skins, making mockersons leggings &c to make themselves comfortable.
the Musquetoes are more than usually troublesome, the knats are not as
much so. in the evening about 4 O'Ck the wind blew hard from South West
and after some little time brought on a Cloud attended with thunder and
Lightning from which we had a fine refreshing shower which cooled the
air considerably; the showers continued with short intervals untill
after dark. in the evening the hunters all returned they had killed 8
deer and 2 Elk. some of the deer wer in excellent order. those whome I
had sent up Gallitin's river reported that after it passed the point to
which I had seen it yesterday that it turned more to the East to a
considerable distance or as far as they could discover the opening of
the Mountains formed by it's valley which was many miles. the bottoms
were tolerably wide but not as much so as at or near it's mouth. it's
current is rappid and the stream much divided with islands but is
sufficiently deep for canoe navigation. Our present camp is precisely
on the spot that the Snake Indians were encamped at the time the
Minnetares of the Knife R. first came in sight of them five years
since. from hence they retreated about three miles up Jeffersons river
and concealed themselves in the woods, the Minnetares pursued, attacked
them, killed 4 men 4 women a number of boys, and mad prisoners of all
the females and four boys, Sah-cah-gar-we-ah or Indian woman was one of
the female prisoners taken at that time; tho I cannot discover that she
shews any immotion of sorrow in recollecting this event, or of joy in
being again restored to her native country; if she has enough to eat
and a few trinkets to wear I beleive she would be perfectly content
anywhere.

[Clark, July 28, 1805]
July 28th Sunday 1805
I was verry unwell all night, Something better this morning, a very
worm day untill 4 oClock when the wind rose & blew hard from the S W.
and was Cloudy, The Thermometr. Stood at 90° above 0 in the evening a
heavy thunder Shower from the S W. which continud at intervales untill
after dark, Several deer killed to day men all employed dressing Skins
for Clothes & Mockersons, two men went up the East fork & reports that
it is nearly the Size of the N. fork, verry rapid & has maney Islands.
Our present Camp is the prosise Spot the Snake Indians were Camped at
the time the Minetarries came in Sight, attacked & killed 4 men 4 women
& a number of boys, & made prisoners of all. the females & 4 boys.

[Lewis, July 29, 1805]
Monday July 29th 1805.
This morning some of the hunters turned out and returned in a few hours
with four fat bucks, the venison is now very fine we have killed no
mule deer since we lay here, they are all of the longtailed red deer
which appear quite as large as those of the United States. the hunters
brought in a living young sandhill crane it has nearly obtained it's
growth but cannot fly; they had pursued it and caught it in the
meadows. it's colour is precisely that of the red deer. we see a number
of the old or full grown crams of this species feeding in these
meadows. this young animal is very ferce and strikes a severe blow with
his beak; after amusing myself with it I had it set at liberty and it
moved off apparently much pleased with being releived from his
captivity. the men have been busily engaged all day in dising skins and
making them into various garments all are leather dressers and taylors.
we see a great abundance of fish in the stream some of which we take to
be trout but they will not bite at any bate we can offer them. the King
fisher is common on the river since we have left the falls of the
Missouri. we have not seen the summer duck since we left that place,
nor do I beleive that it is an inhabitant of the Rocky mountains. the
Duckanmallard were first seen with their young on the 20th inst. and I
forgot to note it; they are now abundant with their young but do not
breed in the missouri below the mountains. the grasshopers and crickets
are abundant in the plains as are also the small birds frequently
mentioned. there is also in these plains a large ant with a redish
brown body and legs, and a black head and abdomen; they construct
little perimids of small gravel in a conic shape, about 10 or 12 inches
high without a mixture of sticks and with but little earth. Capt. Clark
is much better today, is perfectly clear of fever but still very
languid and complains of a general soarness in all his limbs. I
prevailed on him to take the barks which he has done and eate tolerably
freely of our good venison.

[Clark, July 29, 1805]
July 29 Monday 1805
A fair morning wind from the North I feel my Self something better to
day, made some Celestial observations took two Merdn. altitudes which
gave for Latd. 45° 22' 34" N men all dressing Skins &c.

[Lewis, July 30, 1805]
Tuesday July 30th 1805.
Capt. Clark being much better this morning and having completed my
observations we reloaded our canoes and set out, ascending Jeffersons
river. Sharbono, his woman two invalleds and myself walked through the
bottom on the Lard. side of the river about 41/2 miles when we again
struck it at the place the woman informed us that she was taken
prisoner. here we halted untill Capt. Clark arrived which was not
untill after one P.M. the water being strong and the river extreemly
crooked. we dined and again proceeded on; as the river now passed
through the woods the invalleds got on board together with Sharbono and
the Indian woman; I passed the river and continued my walk on the
Stard. side. saw a vast number of beaver in many large dams which they
had maid in various bayoes of the river which are distributed to the
distance of three or four miles on this side of the river over an
extensive bottom of timbered and meadow lands intermixed. in order to
avoid these bayoes and beaver dams which I found difficult to pass I
directed my course to the high plain to the right which I gained after
some time with much difficulty and waiding many beaver dams to my waist
in mud and water. I would willingly have joined the canoes but the
brush were so thick, the river crooked and bottoms intercepted in such
manner by the beaver dams, that I found it uceless to attempt to find
them, and therefore proceeded on up the river in order to intersept it
where it came near the plain and woult be more collected into one
channel. at length about sunset I arrived at the river only about six
miles from my calculation on a direct line from the place I had left
the canoes but I thought they were still below me. I found the river
was divided where I reached it by an Island and was therefore fearfull
that they might pass without my seeing them, and went down to the lower
point of the large island; here I discovered a small Island, close
under the shore on which I was; I passed the narrow channel to the
small island and examined the gravly bar along the edge of the river
for the tracks of the men, knowing from the appearance of the river at
this place that if they had passed they would have used the cord on the
side where I was. I saw no tracks and was then fully convinced that
they were below me. I fired my gun and hallooed but counld hear nothing
of them. by this time it was getting nearly dark and a duck lit on the
shore in about 40 steps of me and I killed it; having now secured my
supper I looked our for a suitable place to amuse myself in combating
the musquetoes for the ballance of the evening. I found a parsel of
drift wood at the head of the little Island on which I was and
immediately set it on fire and collected some willow brush to lye on. I
cooked my duck which I found very good and after eating it layed down
and should have had a comfortable nights lodge but for the musquetoes
which infested me all night. late at night I was awakened by the nois
of some animal runing over the stoney bar on which I lay but did not
see it; from the weight with which it ran I supposed it to be either an
Elk or a brown bear. the latter are very abundant in this
neighbourhood. the night was cool but I felt very little inconvenience
from it as I had a large fire all night. Capt. Clark had proceeded on
after I seperated from him and encamped on a islad. only about 2 miles
below me but did not hear the report of my gun nor of my hooping.-I saw
some deer and antelopes.

[Clark, July 30, 1805]
July 30th Monday 1805
We Set out 8 oClock and proceeded on 131/2 miles up the N. fork the
river verry rapid & Sholey the Channel entirely Corse gravel many
Islands and a number of Chanels in different directions thro the bottom
&c. passed the place the Squar interpretress was taken, one man with
his Sholder Strained, 2 with Turners, we Camped on the Std. Side the
evening Cool. Capt Lewis who walkd on Shore did not join me this evening

[Lewis, July 31, 1805]
Wednesday July 31st 1805.
This morning I waited at my camp very impatiently for the arrival of
Capt. Clark and party; I observed by my watch that it was 7 A.M. and
they had not come in sight. I now became very uneasy and determined to
wait until 8 and if they did not arrive by that time to proceed on up
the river taking it as a fact that they had passed my camp some miles
last evening. just as I set out to pursue my plan I discovered Charbono
walking up shore some distance below me and waited untill arrived I now
learnt that the canoes were behind, they arrived shortly after. their
detention had been caused by the rapidity of the water and the
circuitous rout of the river. they halted and breakfasted after which
we all set out again and I continued my walk on the Stard. shore the
river now becomes more collected the islands tho numerous ar generally
small. the river continues rapid and is from 90 to 120 yd. wide has a
considerable quantity of timber in it's bottoms. towards evening the
bottoms became much narrower and the timber much more scant. high hills
set in close on the Lard. and the plain high waivy or reather broken on
the Stard. and approach the river closely for a shot distance vally
above 11/2 M wd. About one mile above Capt. Clark's encampment of the
last evening the principall entrance of a considerable river discharges
itself into Jefferson's river. this stream is a little upwards of 30
yd. wide discharges a large quantity of very clear water it's bed like
that of Jefferson's river is pebble and gravel. it takes it's rise in
the snowclad mountains between Jefferson's and Madison's Rivers to the
S. W. and discharges itself into the former by seven mouths it has some
timber in it's bottoms and vas numbers of beaver and Otter. this stream
we call River Philosophy. the rock of the clifts this evening is a hard
black grannite like that of the clifts of most parts of the river below
the limestone clifts at the 3 forks of the Missouri this evening just
before we encamped Drewyer discovered a brown bear enter a small cops
of bushes on the Lard. side; we surrounded the place an surched the
brush but he had escaped in some manner unperceived but how we could
not discover. nothing killed today and our fresh meat is out. when we
have a plenty of fresh meat I find it impossible to make the men take
any care of it, or use it with the least frugallity. tho I expect that
necessity will shortly teach them this art. the mountiains on both
sides of the river at no great distance are very lofty. we have a lame
crew just now, two with turners or bad boils on various parts of them,
one with a bad stone bruise, one with his arm accedently dislocated but
fortunately well replaced, and a fifth has streigned his back by
sliping and falling backwards on the gunwall of the canoe. the latter
is Sergt. Gass. it gives him great pain to work in the canoe in his
present situation, but he thinks he can walk with convenience, I
therefore scelected him as one of the party to accompany me tomorrow,
being determined to go in quest of the Snake Indians. I also directed
Drewyer and Charbono to hold themselves in readiness. Charbono thinks
that his ankle is sufficiently recovered to stand the march but I
entertain my doubts of the fact; he is very anxious to accompany me and
I therefore indulge him. There is some pine on the hills on both sides
of the river opposite to our encampment which is on the Lard. side upon
a small island just above a run. the bull rush & Cat-tail flag grow in
great abundance in the moist parts of the bottoms the dryer situations
are covered with fine grass, tanzy, thistles, onions and flax. the
bottom land fertile and of a black rich loam. the uplands poor sterile
and of a light yellow clay with a mixture of small smooth pebble and
gravel, poducing prickley pears, sedge and the bearded grass in great
abundance; this grass is now so dry that it would birn like tinder.- we
saw one bighorn today a few antelopes and deer.-

[Clark, July 31, 1805]
July 31st Tuesday 1805
a fair Morning Capt Lewis out all night, we arrived at his Camp to
brackfast, he was without a blanket, & he killed a Duck whiche Suped on
&c. the river as yesterday Sholey & rapid, passed the lower mouth of a
Small river on the Lard. in the morning & the upper mouth a ____ Miles
above, this little river is the one I camped on the 26th & heads in the
Snow mountains to the S W. proceeded on verry well and Camped on a
Small Island a little above the place I Camped the 25th instant at the
mouth of a run on the Lard Side, the bottoms from the Mouth of the
river extend to 21/2 Miles & enter a Short & high hill which is about 1
mile thro and, the river then passes thro a 2d value of about 11/2
Miles wide, Some Islands. below this Knobe the river is Crouded with
Islands, we are out of fresh meet, & nothing killed to day The
Mountains on either Side is high & rough we have two men with toumers
and unable to work.

Capt Lewis deturmin to proceed on with three men in Serch of the Snake
Indians, tomorrow

[Lewis, August 1, 1805]
August 1st 1805
At half after 8 A.M. we halted for breakfast and as had been previously
agreed on between Capt. Clark and myself I set out with 3 men in quest
of the Snake Indians. the men I took were the two Interpreters Drewyer
and Sharbono and Sergt. Gass who by an accedental fall had so disabled
himself that it was with much pain he could work in the canoes tho he
could march with convenience. the rout we took lay over a rough high
range of mountains on the North side of the river. the rive entered
these mountains a few miles above where we left it. Capt Clark
recommended this rout to me from a belief that the river as soon as it
past the mountains boar to the N. of W. he having a few days before
ascended these mountains to a position from which he discovered a large
valley passing betwen the mountains and which boar to the N. West. this
however poved to be the inlet of a large creek which discharged itself
into the river just above this range of mountans, the river bearing to
the S. W. we were therefore thrown several miles out of our rout. as
soon as we discovered our mistake we directed our course to the river
which we at length gained about 2 P.M. much exhausted by the heat of
the day the roughnes of the road and the want of water. the mountains
are extreemly bare of timber and our rout lay through the steep valleys
exposed to the heat of the sun without shade and scarcely a breath of
air; and to add to my fatiegue in this walk of about 11 miles I had
taken a doze of glauber salts in the morning in consequence of a slight
desentary with which I had been afflicted for several days; being
weakened by the disorder and the opperation of the medecine I found
myself almost exhausted before we reached the river. I felt my sperits
much revived on our near approach to the river at the sight of a herd
of Elk of which Drewyer and myself killed two. we then hurried to the
river and allayed our thirst. I ordered two of the men to skin the Elk
and bring the meat to the river while myself and the other prepared a
fire and cooked some of the meat for our dinner. we made a comfortable
meal of the Elk and left the ballance of the meat on the bank of the
river the party with Capt. Clark. this supply was no doubt very
acceptable to them as they had had no fresh meat for near two days
except one beaver Game being very scarce and shy. we had seen a few
deer and some goats but had not been fortunate enough to kill any of
them. after dinner we resumed our march and encamped about 6 m. above
on the Stard side of the river.

[Lewis, August 1, 1805]
Thursday August 1st 1805.
This morning we set out early and proceeded on tolerably well untill 8
OCT. by which time we had arrived within a few miles of a mountain
through which the river passes. we halted on the Stard. side and took
breakfast. after which or at 1/2 after 8 A.M. as had been previously
concerted betwen Capt. Clark and myself I set out with three men in
surch of the Snake Indians or Sosonees. our rout lay over a high range
of mountains on the North side of the river. Capt C. recommended this
rout to me no doubt from a beleif that the river as soon as it passed
this chain of mountains boar to the N. of W. he having on the 26th ult.
ascended these mountains to a position from whence he discoved a large
valley passing between the mountains which boar to the N. W. and
presumed that the river passed in that direction; this however proved
to be the passage of a large creek which discharged itself into the
river just above this range of mountains, the river bearing to the S.
W. we were therefore thrown several miles out of our rout. as soon as
we discovered our error we directed our course to the river which we at
length gained about 2 P.M. much exhausted by the heat of the day, the
roughness of the road and the want of water. the mountains are
extreemly bare of timber, and our rout lay through the steep and narrow
hollows of the mountains exposed to the intese heat of the midday sun
without shade or scarcely a breath of air to add to my fatiegue in this
walk of about 11 miles, I had taken a doze of glauber salts in the
morning in consequence of a slight disentary with which I had been
afflicted for several days. being weakened by the disorder and the
operation of the medicine I found myself almost exhausted before we
reached the river. I felt my sperits much revived on our near approach
to the river at the sight of a herd of Elk, of which Drewyer and myself
soon killed a couple. we then hurryed to the river and allayed our
thirst. I ordered two of the men to skin the Elk and bring the meat to
the river, while myself and the other prepared a fire and cooked some
of the meat for our dinner. we made a comfortable meal on the Elk, and
left the ballance of the meat and skins on the bank of the river for
Capt. Clark and party. this supply will no doubt be acceptable to them,
as they had had no fresh meat when I left them for almost 2 days except
one beaver; game being very scarce and shy above the forks. we had seen
a few deer and antelopes but had not been fortunate enough to kill any
of them. as I passed these mountains I saw a flock of the black or dark
brown phesants; the young phesant is almost grown we killed one of
them. this bird is fully a third larger than the common phesant of the
Atlantic states. it's form is much the same. it is booted nearly to the
toes and the male has not the tufts of long black feathers on the sides
of the neck which are so conspicuous in those of the Atlantic. their
colour is a uniform dark brown with a small mixture of yellow or
yelloish brown specks on some of the feathers particularly those of the
tail, tho the extremities of these are perfectly black for about one
inch. the eye is nearly black, the iris has a small dash of yellowish
brown. the feathers of the tail are reather longer than that of our
phesant or pattridge as they are Called in the Eastern States; are the
same in number or eighteen and all nearly of the same length, those in
the intermediate part being somewhat longest. the flesh of this bird is
white and agreeably flavored. I also saw near the top of the mountain
among some scattering pine a blue bird about the size of the common
robbin. it's action and form is somewhat that of the jay bird and never
rests long in any one position but constantly flying or hoping from
sprey to sprey. I shot at one of them but missed it. their note is loud
and frequently repeated both flying and when at rest and is char ah',
char'ah, char ah', as nearly as letters can express it. after dinner we
resumed our march and my pack felt much lighter than it had done about
2 hours before. we traveled about six miles further and encamped on the
stard. bank of the river, making a distance of 17 miles for this day.
the Musquetoes were troublesome but I had taken the precaution of
bringing my bier.

Shortly after I left Capt. Clark this morning he proceed on and passed
through the mountains; they formed tremendious clifts of ragged and
nearly perpendicular rocks; the lower .part of this rock is of the
black grannite before mentioned and the upper part a light coloured
freestone. these clifts continue for 9 miles and approach the river
very closely on either side. he found the current verry strong. Capt.
C. killed a big horn on these clifts which himself and party dined on.
after passing this range of mountains he entered this beautifull valley
in which we also were it is from 6 to 8 miles wide. the river is
crooked and crouded with islands, it's bottoms wide fertile and covered
with fine grass from 9 inches to 2 feet high and possesses but a scant
proportion of timber, which consists almost entirely of a few narrow
leafed cottonwood trees distributed along the verge of the river. in
the evening Capt. C. found the Elk I had left him and ascended a short
distance above to the entrance of a large creek which falls in on
Stard. and encamped opposite to it on the Lard. side. he sent out the
two Fieldses to hunt this evening and they killed 5 deer, which with
the Elk again gave them a plentifull store of fresh provisions. this
large creek we called Field's Creek after Reubin Fields one our party.
on the river about the mountains wich Capt. C. passed today he saw some
large cedar trees and some juniper also just at the upper side of the
mountain there is a bad rappid here the toe line of our canoe broke in
the shoot of the rapids and swung on the rocks and had very nearly
overset. a small distance above this rapid a large bold Creek falls in
on Lard. side which we called Frazier's Creek after Robt. Frazier. They
saw a large brown bear feeding on currants but could not get a shoot at
him.

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