Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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I also observed another species of flax today which is not so large as
the first, sildome obtaining a greater hight than 9 Inches or a foot
the stem and leaf resemble the other species but the stem is rarely
branched, bearing a single monopetallous bellshaped blue flower which
is suspended with it's limb downwards,
[Clark, July 18, 1805]
July 18th Tursday 1805
a fine morning passed a Considerable river which falls in on the Stard
Side and nearly as wide as the Missouri we call Dearbournes river after
the Sety. of war. we thought it prudent for a partey to go a head for
fear our fireing Should allarm the Indians and cause them to leave the
river and take to the mountains for Safty from their enemes who visit
them thro this rout. I deturmined to go a head with a Small partey a
few days and find the Snake Indians if possible after brackfast I took
J. Fields Potts & my Servent proceeded on. the Country So Hilley that
we gained but little of the Canoes untill in the evening I passed over
a mountain on an Indian rode by which rout I cut off Several miles of
the Meanderings of the River, the roade which passes this mountain is
wide and appears to have been dug in maney places, we Camped on a Small
run of Clear Cold water, musquitors verry troublesom the forepart of
the evening I Saw great maney Ibex. we Crossed two Streams of running
water on those Streams I saw Several Beaver dams. ordway Creek the
Countrey is Mountanious & rockey except the valey &c. which is Covered
with earth of a good quallity without timber, The timber which is
principally pitch pine is Confined to the mountains, the Small runs &
Creeks which have water running in them Contain Cotton-Willow, Willow,
& aspin. trees all Small I Saw maney fine Springs & Streams of running
water which Sink & rise alternately in the Valies the water of those
Streams are fine, those Streams which run off into the river are darned
up by the beaver from near ther mouthes up as high as I could See up
them
[Lewis, July 19, 1805]
Friday July 19th 1805
The Musquetoes are very troublesome to us as usual. this morning we set
out early and proceeded on very well tho the water appears to encrease
in volocity as we advance. the current has been strong all day and
obstructed with some rapids, tho these are but little broken by rocks
and are perfectly safe. the river deep and from 100 to 150 yds. wide. I
walked along shore today and killed an Antelope. whever we get a view
of the lofty summits of the mountains the snow presents itself, altho
we are almost suffocated in this confined vally with heat. the pine
cedar and balsum fir grow on the mountains in irregular assemleages or
spots mostly high up on their sides and summits. this evening we
entered much the most remarkable clifts that we have yet seen. these
clifts rise from the waters edge on either side perpendicularly to the
hight of 1200 feet. every object here wears a dark and gloomy aspect.
the towering and projecting rocks in many places seem ready to tumble
on us. the river appears to have forced it's way through this immence
body of solid rock for the distance of 53/4 miles and where it makes
it's exit below has thown on either side vast collumns of rocks
mountains high. the river appears to have woarn a passage just the
width of it's channel or 150 yds. it is deep from side to side nor is
ther in the 1st 3 miles of this distance a spot except one of a few
yards in extent on which a man could rest the soal of his foot. several
fine springs burst out at the waters edge from the interstices of the
rocks. it happens fortunately that altho the current is strong it is
not so much so but what it may be overcome with the oars for there is
hear no possibility of using either the cord or Setting pole. it was
late in the evening before I entered this place and was obliged to
continue my rout untill sometime after dark before I found a place
sufficiently large to encamp my small party; at length such an one
occurred on the lard. side where we found plenty of lightwood and
pichpine. this rock is a black grannite below and appears to be of a
much lighter colour above and from the fragments I take it to be flint
of a yelloish brown and light creemcolourd yellow.- from the singular
appearance of this place I called it the gates of the rocky mountains.
the mountains higher today than yesterday, saw some Bighorns and a few
Antelopes also beaver and Otter; the latter are now very plenty one of
the men killed one of them today with a setting pole. musquetoes less
troublesome than usual. we had a thundershower today about 1 P.M. which
continued about an hour and was attended with som hail. we have seen no
buffaloe since we entered the mounts. this morning early Capt. Clark
pursued his rout, saw early in the day the remains of several Indians
camps formed of willow brush which appeared to have been inhabited some
time this spring. saw where the natives had pealed the bark off the
pine trees about this same season. this the indian woman with us
informs that they do to obtain the sap and soft part of the wood and
bark for food. at 11 A.M. Capt. C. feell in with a gang of Elk of which
he killed 2. and not being able to obtain as much wood as would make a
fire substituded the dung of the buffaloe and cooked a part of their
meat on which they breakfasted and again pursueed their rout, which lay
along an old indian road. this evening they passed a hansome valley
watered by a large creek which extends itself with it's valley into the
mountain to a considerable distance. the latter part of the evening
their rout lay over a hilly and mountanous country covered with the
sharp fragments of flint which cut and bruised their feet excessively;
nor wer the prickly pear of the leveler part of the rout much less
painfull; they have now become so abundant in the open uplands that it
is impossible to avoid them and their thorns are so keen and stif that
they pearce a double thickness of dressed deers skin with ease. Capt.
C. informed me that he extracted 17 of these bryers from his feet this
evening after he encamped by the light of the fire. I have guarded or
reather fortifyed my feet against them by soaling my mockersons with
the hide of the buffaloe in parchment. he encamped on the river much
fortiegud having passed two mountains in the course of the day and
travelled about 30 miles.-
[Clark, July 19, 1805]
July 19th Fryday 1805
a find morning I proceeded on in an Indian path river verry crooked
passed over two mountains Saw Several Indian Camps which they have left
this Spring. Saw trees Peeled & found poles &c. at 11 oC I Saw a gange
of Elk as we had no provision Concluded to kill Some Killd two and
dined being oblige to Substitute dry buffalow dung in place of wood,
this evening passed over a Cream Coloured flint which roled down from
the Clifts into the bottoms, the Clifts Contain flint a dark grey Stone
& a redish brown intermixed and no one Clift is Solid rock, all the
rocks of everry description is in Small pices appears to have been
broken by Some Convulsion- passed a butifull Creek on the Std. Side
this eveng which meanders thro a butifull Vallie of great extent, I
call after Sgt Pryor the countrey on the Lard Side a high mountain Saw
Several Small rapids to day the river Keep its width and appear to be
deep, my feet is verry much brused & cut walking over the flint, &
constantly Stuck full Prickley pear thorns, I puled out 17 by the light
of the fire to night We camped on the river Same (Lard) Side Musqutors
verry troublesom.
[Lewis, July 20, 1805]
Saturday 20 h 1805.
Set out early this morning as usual, currant strong, we therefore
employ the toe rope when ever the banks permit the use of it; the water
is reather deep for the seting pole in most places. at 6 A.M. the hills
retreated from the river and the valley became wider than we have seen
it since we entered the mountains. some scattering timber on the river
and in the valley. consisting of the narrowleafed Cottonwood aspin &
pine. vas numbers of the several species of currants goosberries and
service berries; of each of these I preserved some seeds. I found a
black currant which I thought preferable in flavor to the yellow. this
currant is really a charming fruit and I am confident would be prefered
at our markets to any currant now cultivated in the U States. we killed
an Elk this morning which was very acceptable to us. through the valley
which we entered early in the morning a large creek flows from the
mountains and discharges itself into the river behind an island on
Stard. side about 15 yds. wide this we called Potts's Creek after John
Potts one of our party. about 10 A.M. we saw the smoke arrose as if the
country had been set on fire up the valley of this creek about 7 ms.
distant we were at a loss to determine whether it had been set on fire
by the natives as a signall among themselves on discovering us, as is
their custom or whether it had been set on fire by Capt. C. and party
accedentally. the first however proved to be the fact, they had
unperceived by us discovered Capt. Clark's party or mine, and had set
the plain on fire to allarm the more distant natives and fled
themselves further into the interior of the mountains. this evening we
found the skin of an Elk and part of the flesh of the anamal which
Capt. C. had left near the river at the upper side of the valley where
he assended the mountain with a note informing me of his transactions
and that he should pass the mounts which lay just above us and wate our
arrival at some convenient place on the river. the other elk which
Capt. C. had killed we could not find. about 2 in the evening we had
passed through a range of low mountains and the country bacame more
open again, tho still broken and untimbered and the bottoms not very
extensive. we encamped on the Lard. side near a spring on a high bank
the prickly pears are so abundant that we could scarcely find room to
lye. just above our camp the river is again closed in by the Mouts. on
both sides. I saw a black woodpecker today about the size of the lark
woodpecker as black as a crow. I indevoured to get a shoot at it but
could not. it is a distinct species of woodpecker; it has a long tail
and flys a good deel like the jay bird.
This morning Capt. Clark set out early and proceeded on through a
valley leaving the river about six miles to his left; he fell in with
an old Indian road which he pursued untill it struck the river about 18
miles from his camp of the last evening just above the entrance of a
large creek which we call white paint Creek. the party were so much
fortiegued with their march and their feet cut with the flint and
perced with the prickly pears untill they had become so painfull that
he proceeded but little further before he determined to encamp on the
river and wait my arrival.- Capt. C. saw a smoke today up the valley of
Pryor's creek which was no doubt caused by the natives likewise. he
left signals or signs on his rout in order to inform the indians should
they pursue his trale that we were not their enemies, but white men and
their friends.- cloth &c
[Clark, July 20, 1805]
July 20th Satturday 1805
a fine morning we proceded on thro a valley leaveing the river about 6
miles to our left and fell into an Indian roade which took us to the
river above the mo. of a Creek 18 miles The Misquetors verry troublesom
my man York nearly tired out, the bottoms of my feet blistered. I
observe a Smoke rise to our right up the Valley of the last Creek about
12 miles distant, The Cause of this Smoke I can't account for certainly
tho think it probable that the Indians have heard the Shooting of the
Partey below and Set the Praries or Valey on fire to allarm their
Camps; Supposeing our party to be a war party comeing against them, I
left Signs to Shew the Indians if they Should come on our trail that we
were not their enemeys. Camped on the river, the feet of the men with
me So Stuck with Prickley pear & cut with the Stones that they were
Scerseley able to march at a Slow gate this after noon
[Lewis, July 21, 1805]
Sunday July 21st 1805.
Set out early this morning and passed a bad rappid where the river
enters the mountain about 1 m. from our camp of last evening the Clifts
high and covered with fragments of broken rocks. the current strong; we
employed the toe rope principally, and also the pole as the river is
not now so deep but reather wider and much more rapid our progress was
therefore slow and laborious. we saw three swans this morning, which
like the geese have not yet recovered the feathers of the wing and
could not fly we killed two of them the third escaped by diving and
passed down with the current; they had no young ones with them
therefore presume they do not breed in this country these are the first
we have seen on the river for a great distance. we daily see great
numbers of gees with their young which are perfectly feathered except
the wings which are deficient in both young and old. my dog caught
several today, as he frequently dose. the young ones are very fine, but
the old gees are poor and unfit for uce. saw several of the large brown
or sandhill Crain today with their young. the young Crain is as large
as a turkey and cannot fly they are of a bright red bey colour or that
of the common deer at this season. this bird feeds on grass prinsipally
and is found in the river bottoms. the grass near the river is lofty
and green that of the hill sides and high open grounds is perfectly dry
and appears to be scorched by the heat of the sun. the country was
rough mountainous & much as that of yesterday untill towards evening
when the river entered a beautifull and extensive plain country of
about 10 or 12 miles wide which extended upwards further that the eye
could reach this valley is bounded by two nearly parallel ranges of
high mountains which have their summits partially covered with snow.
below the snowey region pine succeeds and reaches down their sides in
some parts to the plain but much the greater portion of their surfaces
is uncovered with timber and expose either a barren sterile soil
covered with dry parched grass or black and rugged rocks. the river
immediately on entering this valley assumes a different aspect and
character, it spreads to a mile and upwards in width crouded with
Islands, some of them large, is shallow enough for the use of the
seting pole in almost every part and still more rappid than before;
it's bottom is smooth stones and some large rocks as it has been since
we have entered the mountains. the grass in these extensive bottoms is
green and fine, about 18 inches or 2 feet high. the land is a black
rich loam and appears very fertile. we encamped in this beatiful valley
on the Lard. side the party complain of being much fatiegued with this
days travel. we killed one deer today.- This morning we passed a bold
creek 28 yds. wide which falls in on Stard. side. it has a handsome and
an extensive valley. this we called Pryor's Creek after Sergt. (John)
Pryor one of our party. I also saw two fesants today of a dark brown
colour much larger than the phesant of the U States.
this morning Capt. Clark having determined to hunt and wait my arrival
somewhere about his preset station was fearfull that some indians might
still be on the river above him sufficiently near to hear the report of
his guns and therefore proceeded up, the river about three miles and
not finding any indians nor discovering any fresh appearance of them
returned about four miles below and fixed his camp near the river;
after refreshing themselves with a few hours rest they set out in
different directions to hunt. Capt C. killed a buck and Fields a buck
and doe. he caught a young curlooe which was nearly feathered. the
musquetoes were equally as troublesome to them as to ourselves this
evening; tho some hours after dark the air becomes so cold that these
insects disappear. the men are all fortunately supplyed with musquetoe
biers otherwise it would be impossible for them to exist under the
fatiegues which they daily encounter without their natural rest which
they could not obtain for those tormenting insects if divested of their
biers. timber still extreemly scant on the river but there is more in
this valley than we have seen since we entered the mountains; the
creeks which fall into the river are better supplyed with this article
than the river itself.-
we saw a number of trout today since the river has become more shallow;
also caught a fish of a white colour on the belly and sides and of a
bluish cast on the back which had been accedentally wounded by a
setting pole. it had a long pointed mouth which opened somewhat like
the shad.
[Clark, July 21, 1805]
July 21st Sunday 1805
a fine morning our feet So brused and Cut that I deturmined to delay
for the Canoes, & if possible kill Some meat by the time they arrived,
all the Creeks which fall into the Missouri on the Std. Side Since
entering the Mountains have extencive Valies of open Plain. the river
bottoms Contain nothing larger than a Srub untill above the last Creek
the Creeks & runs have timber on them generally, the hills or mountains
are in Some places thickly covered with pine & Cedar &c. &c. I
proceeded on about 3 miles this morning finding no fresh Indian Sign
returned down the river four miles and Camped, turned out to hunt for
Some meat, which if we are Suckessfull will be a Seasonable Supply for
the partey assending. emence quantities of Sarvice buries, yellow, red,
Purple & black Currents ripe and Superior to any I ever tasted
particularly the yellow & purple kind. Choke Cheries are Plenty; Some
Goose buries- The wild rose Continue the Willow more abundant no Cotton
wood of the Common kind Small birds are plenty, Some Deer, Elk, Goats,
and Ibex; no buffalow in the Mountains.
Those mountains are high and a great perportion of them rocky Vallies
fertile I observe on the highest pinicals of Some of the mountains to
the West Snow lying in Spots Some Still further North are covered with
Snow and cant be Seen from this point The Winds in those mountains are
not Settled generally with the river, to day the wind blow hard from
the West at the Camp. The Missouri Continus its width the Current
Strong and Crouded with little Islands and Cose graveley bars; but
little fine Sand the Chanel generally a Corse gravel or Soft mud.
Musquetors & Knats verry troublesom. I killed a Buck, and J. Fields
killed a Buck and Doe this evening. Cought a young Curlough.
[Lewis, July 22, 1805]
Monday July 22cd 1805.
We set out early as usual. The river being divided into such a number
of channels by both large and small Island that I found it impossible
to lay it down correctly following one channel only in a canoe and
therefore walked on shore took the general courses of the river and
from the rising grounds took a view of the Islands and it's different
channels which I laid don in conformity thereto on my chart. there
being but little timber to obstruct my view I could see it's various
meanders very satisfactorily. I passed though a large Island which I
found a beautifull level and fertile plain about 10 feet above the
surface of the water and never overflown. on this Island I met with
great quantities of a smal onion about the size of a musquit ball and
some even larger; they were white crisp and well flavored I geathered
about half a bushel of them before the canoes arrived. I halted the
party for breakfast and the men also geathered considerable quantities
of those onions. it's seed had just arrived to maturity and I gathered
a good quantity of it. This appears to be a valuable plant inasmuch as
it produces a large quantity to the squar foot and bears with ease the
rigor of this climate, and withall I think it as pleasantly flavored as
any species of that root I ever tasted. I called this beatifull and
fertile island after this plant Onion Island. here I passed over to the
stard. shore where the country was higher and ascended the river to the
entrance of a large creek which discharges itself into the Missouri on
the Stard. side. it is composed of three pretty considerable creeks
which unite in a beautifull and extensive vally a few miles before it
discharges itself into the river. while wateing for the canoes to
arrive I killed an otter which sunk to the bottom on being shot, a
circumstance unusual with that anamal. the water was about 8 feet deep
yet so clear that I could see it at the bottom; I swam in and obtained
it by diving. I halted the party here for dinner; the canoes had taken
different channels through these islands and it was sometime before
they all came up. I placed my thermometer in a good shade as was my
custom about 4 P.M. and after dinner set out without it and had
proceeded near a mile before I recollected it I sent Sergt. Ordway back
for it, he found it and brought it on. the murcury stood at 80 a. 0
this is the warmest day except one which we have experienced this
summer. The Indian woman recognizes the country and assures us that
this is the river on which her relations live, and that the three forks
are at no great distance. this peice of information has cheered the
sperits of the party who now begin to console themselves with the
anticipation of shortly seeing the head of the missouri yet unknown to
the civilized world. the large creek which we passed on Stard. 15 yds.
we call white Earth Creek from the circumstance of the natives
procuring a white paint on this crek.- Saw many gees, crams, and small
birds common to the plains, also a few phesants and a species of small
curlooe or plover of a brown colour which I first met with near the
entrance of Smith's river but they are so shy and watchfull there is no
possibility of geting a shoot at them it is a different kind from any
heretofore discribed and is about the size of the yellow leged plover
or jack Curlooe. both species of the willow that of the broad leaf and
narrow leaf still continue, the sweet willow is very scarce. the rose
bush, small honesuckle, the pulpy leafed thorn, southernwood, sage Box
alder narrow leafed cottonwood, red wod, a species of sumac are all
found in abundance as well as the red and black goosberries, service
berries, choke cherries and the currants of four distinct colours of
black, yellow, red and perple. the cherries are not yet ripe. the bear
appear to feed much on the currants. late this evening we arrived at
Capt. Carks camp on the stard. side of the river; we took them on board
with the meat they had collected and proceeded a short distance and
encamped on an Island Capt. Clark's party had killed a deer and an Elk
today and ourselves one deer and an Antelope only. altho Capt C. was
much fatiegued his feet yet blistered and soar he insisted on pursuing
his rout in the morning nor weould he consent willingly to my releiving
him at that time by taking a tour of the same kind. finding him anxious
I readily consented to remain with the canoes; he ordered Frazier and
Jo. & Reubin Filds to hold themselves in readiness to accompany him in
the morning. Sharbono was anxious to accompany him and was accordingly
permitted. the musquetoes and knats more than usually troublesome to us
this evening.-
[Clark, July 22, 1805]
July 22d Monday 1805
a fine morning wind from the S. E. the last night verry cold, my
blanket being Small I lay on the grass & Covered with it. I opened the
bruses & blisters of my feet which caused them to be painfull
dispatched all the men to hunt in the bottom for Deer, deturmined my
Self to lay by & nurs my feet. haveing nothing to eat but venison and
Currents, I find my Self much weaker than when I left the Canoes and
more inclined to rest & repose to day. These men were not Suckcessfull
in hunting killed only one Deer Capt Lewis & the Party arvd. at 4
oClock & we all proceeded on a Short distance and Camped on an Island
the Musquitors verry troublesom this evening G Drewyer not knowing the
place we Camped Continued on up the river. I deturmined to proceed on
in pursute of the Snake Indians on tomorrow and directed Jo Rubin
Fields Frasure to get ready to accompany me. Shabono, our interpreter
requested to go, which was granted &c. In my absence the hunters had
killed Some Deer & a Elk, one fusee found &c. &c.
[Lewis, July 23, 1805]
Tuesday July 23rd 1805.
Set out early as usual; Capt. Clark left us with his little party of 4
men and continued his rout on the Stard. side of the river. about 10
OCk. A M. we came up with Drewyer who had seperated from us yesterday
evening and lay out all night not being able to find where we had
encamped. he had killed 5 deer which we took on board and continued our
rout. the river is still divided by a great number of islands, it
channels sometimes seperating to the distance of 3 miles; the current
very rapid with a number of riffles; the bed gravel and smooth stones;
the banks low and of rich loam in the bottoms; some low bluffs of
yellow and red clay with a hard red slate stone intermixed. the bottoms
are wide and but scantily timbered; the underbrush very thick
consisting of the narrow & broad leafed willow rose and Currant bushes
principally. high plains succeeds the river bottoms and extend back on
either side to the base of the mountains which are from 8 to 12 miles
assunder, high, rocky, some small pine and Cedar on them and ly
parallel with the river. passed a large creek on Lard. side 20 yds.
wide which after meandering through a beautifull and extensive bottom
for several miles nearly parallel with the river discharges itself
opposite to a large cluster of islands which from their number I called
the 10 islands and the creek Whitehous's Creek, after Josph. Whitehouse
one of the party. saw a great abundance of the common thistles; also a
number of the wild onions of which we collected a further supply. there
is a species of garlic also which grows on the high lands with a flat
leaf now green and in bloe but is strong tough and disagreeable. found
some seed of the wild flax ripe which I preserved; this plant grows in
great abundance in these bottoms. I halted rearther early for dinner
today than usual in order to dry some articles which had gotten wet in
several of the canoes. I ordered the canoes to hoist their small flags
in order that should the indians see us they might discover that we
were not Indians, nor their enemies. we made great uce of our seting
poles and cords the uce of both which the river and banks favored. most
of our small sockets were lost, and the stones were so smooth that the
points of their poles sliped in such manner that it increased the
labour of navigating the canoes very considerably, I recollected a
parsel of giggs which I had brought on, and made the men each atatch
one of these to the lower ends of their poles with strong wire, which
answered the desired purpose. we saw Antelopes Crain gees ducks beaver
and Otter. we took up four deer which Capt. Clark & party had killed
and left near the river. he pursued his rout untill late in the evening
and encamped on the bank of the river 25 ms. above our encampment of
the last evening; he followed an old indian road which lyes along the
river on the stard side Capt. saw a number of Antelopes, and one herd
of Elk. also much sign of the indians but all of ancient date. I saw
the bull rush and Cattail flag today.
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106 |
107 |
108 |
109 |
110 |
111 |
112 |
113 |
114 |
115 |
116 |
117 |
118 |
119 |
120 |
121 |
122 |
123 |
124 |
125 |
126 |
127 |
128 |
129 |
130 |
131 |
132 |
133 |
134 |
135