Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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[Clark, July 12, 1805]
July 12th Friday 1805
a fair windey morning wind from the S. W. all hands at work at Day
light Some at the Canoes, & others drying meat for our voyage-
Dispatched W. Brattin to the lower Camp for two axes which are
necessary to carry on our work at this place &. Serjt. Pryors Sholder
was put out of place yesterday Carrying Meat and is painfull to day.
wind hard all day dispatched 2 hunters, they returnd in the evening
with three Deer & 2 orters. four men arrived from the lower Camp by
land to assist at this place in building the Canoes &c. musquitors &
knats verry troublesom all day. a fiew wild pigions about our Camp.
[Lewis, July 13, 1805]
Saturday July 13th 1805.
This morning being calm and Clear I had the remainder of our baggage
embarked in the six small canoes and maned them with two men each. I
now bid a cheerfull adue to my camp and passed over to the opposite
shore. Baptiest La Page one of the men whom I had reserved to man the
canoes being sick I sent Charbono in his stead by water and the sick
man and Indian woman accompanyed me by land. from the head of the white
bear Islands I passed in a S. W. direction and struck the Missouri at 3
miles and continued up it to Capt. Clark's camp where I arrived about 9
A.M. and found them busily engaged with their canoes Meat &c. in my way
I passed a very extraordinary Indian lodge, or at least the fraim of
one; it was formed of sixteen large cottonwood poles each about fifty
feet long and at their larger end which rested on the ground as thick
as a man's body; these were arranged in a circular manner at bottom and
equally distributed except the omission of one on the East side which I
suppose was the entrance to the lodge; the upper part of the poles are
united in a common point above and secured with large wyths of willow
brush. in the center of this fabric there was the remains of a large
fire; and about the place the marks of about 80 leather lodges. I know
not what was the intention or design of such a lodge but certain I am
that it was not designed for a dwelling of anyone family. it was 216
feet in circumpherence at the base. it was most probably designed for
some great feast, or a council house on some great national concern. I
never saw a similar one nor do the nations lower down the Missouri
construct such. The canoes and party with Sergt. Ordway poceeded up the
river about 5 miles when the wind became so violent that two of the
canoes shiped a considerable quanty of water and they were compelled to
put too take out the baggage to dry and clense the canoes of the water.
about 5 P.M. the wind abated and they came on about 8 miles further and
encamped. I saw a number of turtledoves and some pigeons today. of the
latter I shot one; they are the same common to the United States, or
the wild pigeon as they are called. nothing remarkable in the
appearance of the country; the timber entirely confined to the river
and the country back on either side as far as the eye can reach
entirely destitute of trees or brush. the timber is larger and more
abundant in the bottom in which we now are than I have seen it on the
Missouri for many hundred miles. the current of the river is still
extreemly gentle. The hunters killed three buffaloe today which were in
good order. the flesh was brought in dryed the skins wer also streached
for covering our baggage. we eat an emensity of meat; it requires 4
deer, an Elk and a deer, or one buffaloe, to supply us plentifully 24
hours. meat now forms our food prinsipally as we reserve our flour
parched meal and corn as much as possible for the rocky mountains which
we are shortly to enter, and where from the indhan account game is not
very abundant. I preserved specemines of several small plants to day
which I have never before seen. The Musquetoes and knats are more
troublesome here if possible than they were at the White bear Islands.
I sent a man to the canoes for my musquetoe bier which I had neglected
to bring with me, as it is impossible to sleep a moment without being
defended against the attacks of these most tormenting of all insects;
the man returned with it a little after dark.
[Clark, July 13, 1805]
July 13th Saturday 1805.
a fair Calm Morning, verry Cool before day- we were visited by a
Buffalow Bull who came within a fiew Steps of one of the Canoes the men
were at work. Capt. Lewis one man &c. arrived over Land at 9 oClock,
the wind rose and blew hard from the S. E. the greater part of the day
both Canoes finished all to Corking & fixing ores &c. &c. The Hunters
killed 3 Buffalow the most of all the meat I had dried for to make
Pemitigon. The Musquetors & Knats verry troublesom all day & night
[Lewis, July 14, 1805]
Sunday July 14th 1805.
This morning was calm fair and warm; the Musquetoes of course
troublesome. all hands that could work were employed about the canoes.
which we completed and launched this evening. the one was 25 feet and
the other 33 feet in length and about 3 feet wide. we have now the
seats and oars to make and fit &c. I walked out today and ascended the
bluffs which are high rockey and steep; I continued my rout about 31/2
when I gained a conspicuous eminence about 2 mes. distant from the
river a little below the entrance of Fort Mountain Creek. from this
place I had a commanding view of the country and took the bearings of
the following places. (viz)
To the point at which the Missouri first enters the Rocky Mountains
S. 28° W.
25
To the termineation of the 1st Chain of Rocky Mountains; northwardly,
being that through which the Missouri first passes
N. 73° W
80
To the extremity or tirmineation of 2cd Chain of the Rocky Mountains
N. 65 W.
150
To the most distant point of a third and continued chain of the same
mts
N. 50°W.
200
The direction of the 2cd Do. from S 45 E. to N. 45• W.
To Fort Mountain
S. 75° W.
8
The country in most parts very level and in others swelling with gentle
rises and decents, or in other wirds what I have heretofore designated
a wavy country destitute of timber except along the water-courses. On
my return to camp found Sergt. Ordway had arrived with all the canoes
about noon and had unloaded them every preperation except the entire
completion of the oars poles &c is made for our departure tomorrow. the
grass and weeds in this bottom are about 2 feet high; which is a much
greater hight than we have seen them elsewhere this season. here I
found the sand rush and nittles in small quantities. the grass in the
plains is not more than 3 inches high. grasshoppers innumerable in the
plains and the small birds before noticed together with the brown
Curlooe still continue nomerous in every part of the plains.
had a slight shower at 4 P.M. this evening.
[Clark, July 14, 1805]
July 14th Sunday 1805
a fine morning Calm and worm musquetors & Knats verry troublesom. The
Canoes arrive at 12 oClock & unloade to Dry &c. finished & Lanced the 2
Canoes, Some rain this afternoon. all prepareing to Set out on tomorrow.
[Lewis, July 15, 1805]
Monday July 15th 1805.
We arrose very early this morning, assigned the canoes their loads and
had it put on board. we now found our vessels eight in number all
heavily laden, notwithstanding our several deposits; tho it is true we
have now a considerable stock of dryed meat and grease. we find it
extreemly difficult to keep the baggage of many of our men within
reasonable bounds; they will be adding bulky articles of but little use
or value to them. At 10 A.M. we once more saw ourselves fairly under
way much to my joy and I beleive that of every individual who compose
the party. I walked on shore and killed 2 Elk near one of which the
party halted and dined. we took the skins marrow bones and a part of
the flesh of these Elk. in order to lighten the burthen of the canoes I
continued my walk all the evening and took our only invalledes Potts an
LaPage with me. we passed the river near where we dined and just above
the entrance of a beautifull river 80 yards wide which falls in on the
Lard. side which in honour of Mr. Robert Smith the Secretary of the
Navy we called Smith's River. this stream meanders through a most
lovely valley to the S. E. for about 25 miles when it enters the Rocky
mountains and is concealed from our view. many herds of buffaloe were
feeding in this valley. we again crossed the river to the Stard. side
and passed through a plain and struck the river at a Northwardly bend
where there was timber here we waited untill the canoes arrived by
which time it was so late that we concluded to encamp for the night.
here Drewyer wouded a deer which ran into the river my dog pursued
caught it drowned it and brought it to shore at our camp. we have now
passed Fort Mountain on our right it appears to be about ten miles
distant. this mountain has a singular appearance it is situated in a
level plain, it's sides stand nearly at right angles with each other
and are each about a mile in extent. these are formed of a yellow clay
only without the mixture of rock or stone of any size and rise
perpendicularly to the hight of 300 feet. the top appears to be a level
plain and from the eminence on which I was yesterday I could see that
it was covered with a similar cost of grass with the plain on which it
stands. the surface appears also to possess a tolerable fertile mole of
2 feet thick. and is to all appearance inaccessible. from it's figure
we gave it the name of fort mountain. those mounds before mentioned
near the falls have much the same appearance but are none of them as
large as this one. the prickly pear is now in full blume and forms one
of the beauties as well as the greatest pests of the plains. the
sunflower is also in blume and is abundant. this plant is common to
every part of the Missouri from it's entrance to this place. the
lambsquarter, wild coucumber, sand rush and narrow dock are also common
here. Drewyer killed another deer and an Otter today. we find it
inconvenient to take all the short meanders of the river which has now
become cooked and much narrower than below, we therefore take it's
general course and lay down the small bends by the eye on our daily
traverse or chart. the river is from too to 150 yds. wide. more timber
on the river than below the falls for a great distance. on the banks of
the river there are many large banks of sand much elivated above the
plains on which they ly and appear as if they had been collected in the
course of time from the river by the almost incessant S. W. winds; they
always appear on the sides of the river opposite to those winds.
The couses and distances from the White bear islands to the camp at
which we made the canoes as taken by Sergt. Ordway.-
[Clark, July 15, 1805]
July 15th Monday 1805
rained all the last night I was wet all night this morning wind hard
from the S. W. we Set out at 10 oClock and proceeded on verry well
passed a river on the Lard Side about 80 yards wide which we Call after
the Secy of the Navey Smiths River the river verry Crooked bottoms
extensive rich and Passes thro a butifull vally between 2 mts. Conts.
high grass, our Canoes being So Small Several of the men Capt. Lewis &
my Self Compelled to walked on Shore & Cross the bends to keep up with
the Canoes- a round mountain on our right abt. 10 miles appears
inaxcessable we Call fort mountain. The Prickley pear in bloom but fiew
other flowers. Sun flowr are common, also lambs quarter & Nettles. Capt
Lew Killed 2 Elk & the hunters killed 2 Deer & a Ortter, we Camped on
the Stard Side at which place I Saw many beaver, the timber on the edge
of the river more Common than below the falls- as I am compelled to
walk on Shore find it verry dificuelt to take the Courses of the river,
as it is verry Crooked more So than below
[Lewis, July 16, 1805]
Tuesday July 16th 1805.
We had a heavy dew last night sen one man back this morning for an ax
that he had carelessly left last evening some miles below, and set out
at an early hour. early this morning we passed about 40 little booths
formed of willow bushes to shelter them from the sun; they appeared to
have been deserted about 10 days; we supposed that they were snake
Indians. they appeared to have a number of horses with them-. this
appearance gives me much hope of meeting with these people shortly.
Drewyer killed a buffaloe this morning near the river and we halted and
breakfasted on it. here for the first time I ate of the small guts of
the buffaloe cooked over a blazing fire in the Indian stile without any
preperation of washing or other clensing and found them very good.-
After breakfast I determined to leave Capt. C. and party, and go on to
the point where the river enters the Rocky Mountains and make the
necessary observations against their arrival; accordingly I set out
with the two invalleds Potts and LaPage and Drewyer; I passed through a
very handsome level plain on the Stard. side of the river, the country
equally level and beautiful) on the opposite side; at the distance of 8
mes. passed a small stream on which I observed a considerable quantity
of aspin. a little before 12 I halted on the river at a Stard. bend and
well timbered bottom about 41/2 miles below the mountains and made the
following observation.
after this observation we pursued our rout through a high roling plain
to a rappid immediately at the foot of the mountain where the Missouri
first enters them. the current of the missouri below these rappids is
strong for several miles, tho just above there is scarcely any current,
the river very narrow and deep abot 70 yds. wide only and seems to be
closely hemned in by the mountains on both sides, the bottoms only a
few yards in width. an Indian road enters the mountain at the same
place with the river on the Stard side and continues along it's border
under the steep clifts these mountains appear to be only about 800 feet
above the river and are formed almost entirely of a hard black
grannite. with a few dwarf pine and cedar scattered on them. at this
place there is a large rock of 400 feet high wich stands immediately in
the gap which the missouri makes on it's passage from the mountains; it
is insulated from the neighbouring mountains by a handsome little plain
which surrounds it base on 3 sides and the Missouri washes it's base on
the other, leaving it on the Lard. as it decends. this rock I called
the tower. it may be ascended with some difficulty nearly to it's
summit, and from it there is a most pleasing view of the country we are
now about to leave. from it I saw this evening immence herds of
buffaloe in the plains below. near this place we killed a fat elk on
which we both dined and suped. the Musquetoes are extreemly troublesome
this evening and I had left my bier, of course suffered considerably,
and promised in my wrath that I never will be guily of a similar peice
of negligence while on this voyage.
[Clark, July 16, 1805]
July 16th Tuesday 1805
a fair morning after a verry cold night, heavy dew, dispatched one man
back for an ax left a fiew miles below, and Set out early Killed a
Buffalow on which we Brackfast Capt Lewis & 3 men went on to the
mountain to take a meridian altitude, passed about 40 Small Camps,
which appeared to be abandoned about 10 or 12 days, Suppose they were
Snake Indians, a fiew miles above I Saw the poles Standing in thir
position of a verry large lodge of 60 feet Diamater, & the appearance
of a number of Leather Lodges about, this Sign was old & appeared to
have been last fall great number of buffalow the river is not So wide
as below from 100 to 150 yards wide & Deep Crouded with Islands &
Crooked Some Scattering timber on its edge Such as Cotton wood Cotton
willow, willow and box elder, the Srubs are arrow wod, red wood, Choke
Cherry, red berries, Goose beries, Sarvis burey, red & yellow Currents
a Spcie of Shomake &c.
I camped on the head of a Small Island near the Stard. Shore at the
Rockey Mountains this Range of mountains appears to run N W & S E and
is about 800 feet higher than the Water in the river faced with a hard
black rock the current of the River from the Medison river to the
mountain is gentle bottoms low and extensive, and its General Course is
S. 10° W. about 30 miles on a direct line
[Lewis, July 17, 1805]
Wednesday July 17th 1805.
The sunflower is in bloom and abundant in the river bottoms. The
Indians of the Missouri particularly those who do not cultivate maze
make great uce of the seed of this plant for bread, or use it in
thickening their scope. they most commonly first parch the seed and
then pound them between two smooth stones until) they reduce it to a
fine meal. to this they sometimes mearly add a portion of water and
drink it in that state, or add a sufficient quantity of marrow grease
to reduce it to the consistency of common dough and eate it in that
manner. the last composition I think much best and have eat it in that
state heartily and think it a pallateable dish. there is but little of
the broad leafed cottonwood above the falls, much the greater portion
being of the narrow leafed kind. there are a great abundance of red
yellow perple & black currants, and service berries now ripe and in
great perfection. I find these fruits very pleasent particularly the
yellow currant which I think vastly preferable to those of our gardens.
the shrub which produces this fruit rises to the hight of 6 or 8 feet;
the stem simple branching and erect. they grow closly ascociated in
cops either in the oppen or timbered lands near the watercouses. the
leaf is petiolate of a pale green and resembles in it's form that of
the red currant common to our gardens. the perianth of the
fructification is one leaved, five cleft, abreviated and tubular, the
corolla is monopetallous funnel-shaped; very long, superior, withering
and of a fine orrange colour. five stamens and one pistillum; of the
first, the fillaments are capillare, inserted into the corolla, equal,
and converging; the anther ovate, biffid and incumbent. with rispect to
the second the germ is roundish, smoth, inferior pedicelled and small;
the style, long, and thicker than the stamens, simple, cylindrical,
smooth, and erect, withering and remains with the corolla untill the
fruit is ripe. stigma simple obtuse and withering.- the fruit is a
berry about the size and much the shape of the red currant of our
gardins, like them growing in clusters supported by a compound
footstalk, but the peduncles which support the several berries are
longer in this species and the berries are more scattered. it is quite
as transparent as the red current of our gardens, not so ascid, & more
agreeably flavored. the other species differ not at all in appearance
from the yellow except in the colour and flavor of their berries. I am
not confident as to the colour of the corolla, but all those which I
observed while in blume as we came up the Missouri were yellow but they
might possibly have been all of the yellow kind and that the perple red
and black currants here may have corollas of different tints from that
of the yellow currant.- The survice berry differs somewhat from that of
the U States the bushes are small sometimes not more than 2 feet high
and scarcely ever exceed 8 and are proportionably small in their stems,
growing very thickly ascosiated in clumps. the fruit is the same form
but for the most part larger more lucious and of so deep a perple that
on first sight you would think them black.- there are two species of
goosbirris here allso but neither of them yet ripe. the choke cherries
also abundant and not yet ripe. there is Box alder, red willow and a
species of sumac here also. there is a large pine tree situated on a
small island at the head of these rappids above our camp; it being the
first we have seen for a long distance near the river I called the
island pine island. This range of the rocky mountains runs from S E to
N. W.- at 8 A.M. this morning Capt. Clark arrived with the party. we
took breakfast here, after which I had the box which contained my
instruments taken by land arround tower rock to the river above the
rappid; the canoes ascended with some difficulty but without loss or
injury, with their loads.
After making those observations we proceed, and as the canoes were
still heavy loaded all persons not employed in navigating the canoes
walled on shore. the river clifts were so steep and frequently
projecting into the river with their perpendicular points in such
manner that we could not pass them by land, we wer therefore compelled
to pass and repass the river very frequently in the couse of the
evening. the bottoms are narrow the river also narrow deep and but
little current. river from 70 to 100 yds. wide. but little timber on
the river aspin constitutes a part of that little. see more pine than
usual on the mountains tho still but thinly scattered. we saw some
mountain rams or bighorned anamals this evening, and no other game
whatever and indeed there is but little appearance of any. in some
places both banks of the river are formed for a short distance of
nearly perpendicular rocks of a dark black grannite of great hight; the
river has the appearance of having cut it's passage in the course of
time through this solid rock. we ascended about 6 miles this evening
from the entrance of the mountain and encamped on the Stard. side where
we found as much wood as made our fires. musquetoes still troublesome
knats not as much so.- Capt. C. now informed me that after I left him
yesterday, he saw the poles of a large lodge in praire on the Stard.
side of the river which was 60 feet in diameter and appeared to have
been built last fall; there were the remains of about 80 leather lodges
near the place of the same apparent date. This large lodge was of the
same construction of that mentioned above the white bear Islands. the
party came on very well and encamped on the lower point of an island
near the Stard. shore on that evening. this morning they had set out
early and proceeded without obstruction untill they reached the rappid
where I was encamped.
[Clark, July 17, 1805]
July 17th Wednesday 1805
Set out early this morning and Crossed the rapid at the Island Cald
pine rapid with Some dificuelty, at this rapid I came up with Capt
Lewis & party took a Medn. altitude & we took Some Luner Observations
&c. and proceeded on, the emence high Precipies oblige all the party to
pass & repass the river from one point to another the river confined in
maney places in a verry narrow Chanel from 70 to 120 yards wide bottoms
narrow without timber and maney places the mountain approach on both
Sides, we observe great deel of Scattering pine on the mountains, Some
aspin, Spruce & fur trees took a meridian altd. which gave for
Lattitude 46° 42' 14" 7/10 N we proceeded on verry well about 8 miles &
Camped on the Stard Side The river crooked bottoms narrow, Clifts high
and Steep, I assended a Spur of the Mountain which I found to be highe
& dificuelt of axcess, Containig Pitch Pine & Covered with grass
Scercely any game to be Seen The yellow Current now ripe also the
fussey red Choke Cheries getting ripe Purple Current are also ripe. Saw
Several Ibex or mountain rams to day
[Lewis, July 18, 1805]
Thursday July 18th 1805.
Set out early this morning. previous to our departure saw a large herd
of the Bighorned anamals on the immencely high and nearly perpendicular
clift opposite to us; on the fase of this clift they walked about and
hounded from rock to rock with apparent unconcern where it appared to
me that no quadruped could have stood, and from which had they made one
false step they must have been precipitated at least a 500 feet. this
anamal appears to frequent such precepices and clifts where in fact
they are perfectly secure from the pursuit of the wolf, bear, or even
man himself.- at the distance of 21/2 miles we passed the entrance of a
considerable river on the Stard. side; about 80 yds. wide being nearly
as wide as the Missouri at that place. it's current is rapid and water
extreamly transparent; the bed is formed of small smooth stones of flat
rounded or other figures. it's bottoms are narrow but possess as much
timber as the Missouri. the country is mountainous and broken through
which it passes. it appears as if it might be navigated but to what
extent must be conjectural. this handsome bold and clear stream we
named in honour of the Secretary of war calling it Dearborn's river.-
as we were anxious now to meet with the Sosonees or snake Indians as
soon as possible in order to obtain information relative to the
geography of the country and also if necessary, some horses we thought
it better for one of us either Capt. C. or myself to take a small party
& proceed on up the river, some distance before the canoes, in order to
discover them, should they be on the river before the daily discharge
of our guns, which was necessary in procuring subsistence for the
party, should allarm and cause them to retreat to the mountains and
conceal themselves, supposing us to be their enemies who visit them
usually by the way of this river. accordingly Capt. Clark set out this
morning after breakfast with Joseph Fields, Pots and his servant York.
we proceeded on tolerably well; the current stonger than yesterday we
employ the cord and oars principally tho sometimes the setting pole. in
the evening we passed a large creek about 30 yds. wide which
disembogues on the Stard. side; it discharges a bold current of water
it's banks low and bed frormed of stones altogether; this stream we
called Ordway's creek after Sergt. John Ordway. I have observed for
several days a species of flax growing in the river bottoms the leaf
stem and pericarp of which resembles the common flax cultivated in the
U States. the stem rises to the hight of about 21/2 or 3 feet high; as
many as 8 or ten of which proceede from the same root. the root appears
to be perennial. the bark of the stem is thick strong and appears as if
it would make excellent Hax. the seed are not yet ripe but I hope to
have an opportunity of collecting some of them after they are so if it
should on experiment prove to yeald good flax and at the same time
admit of being cut without injuring the perennial root it will be a
most valuable plant, and I think there is the greatest probability that
it will do so, for notwithstanding the seed have not yet arrived at
maturity it is puting up suckers or young shoots from the same root and
would seem therefore that those which are fully grown and which are in
the proper stage of vegitation to produce the best fax are not longer
essencial to the preservation or support of the root. the river
somewhat wider than yesterday and the mountains more distant from the
river and not so high; the bottoms are but narrow and little or no
timber near the river. some pine on the mountains which seems
principally confined to their uper region. we killed one Elk this
morning and found part of the flesh and the skin of a deer this evening
which had been kited and left by Capt. Clark. we saw several herds of
the Bighorn but they were all out of our reach on inacessable clifts.-
we encamped on the Lard. side in a small grove of narrow leafed
cottonwood there is not any of the broad leafed cottonwood on the river
since it has entered the mountains. Capt Clark ascended the river on
the Stard. side. in the early part of the day after he left me the
hills were so steep that he gained but little off us; in the evening he
passed over a mountain by which means he cut off many miles of the
river's circuitous rout; the Indian road which he pursued over this
mountain is wide and appears as if it had been cut down or dug in many
places; he passed two streams of water, the branches of Ordway's creek,
on which he saw a number of beaver dams succeeding each other in close
order and extending as far up those streams as he could discover them
in their couse towards the mountains. he also saw many bighorn anamals
on the clifts of the mountains. not far beyond the mountain which he
passed in the evening he encamped on a small stream of runing water.
having travelled about 20 m. the water of those rivulets which make
down from these mountains is extreemly cold pure and fine. the soil
near the river is of a good quality and produces a luxuriant growth of
grass and weeds; among the last the sunflower holds a distinguished
place. the aspin is small but grows very commonly on the river and
small streams which make down from the Mouts.
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