Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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The climate about the falls of Missouri appears to be Singular Cloudy
every day (Since our arrival near them) which rise from defferent
directions and discharge themselves partially in the plains &
mountains, in Some places rain others rain & hail, hail alone, and on
the mountains in Some parts Snow. a rumbling like Cannon at a great
distance is heard to the west if us; the Cause we Can't account
[Lewis, July 5, 1805]
Friday July 5th 1805.
This morning I had the boat removed to an open situation, scaffold her
off the ground, turned her keel to the sun and kindled fires under her
to dry her more expeditiously. I then set a couple of men to pounding
of charcoal to form a composition with some beeswax which we have and
buffaloe tallow now my only hope and resource for paying my boat; I
sincerely hope it may answer yet I fear it will not. the boat in every
other rispect completely answers my most sanguine expectation; she is
not yet dry and eight men can carry her with the greatest ease; she is
strong and will carry at least 8,000 lbs. with her suit of hands; her
form is as complete as I could wish it. the stitches begin to gape very
much since she has began to dry; I am now convinced this would not have
been the case had the skins been sewed with a sharp point only and the
leather not cut by the edges of a sharp nedle. about 8 A M. a large
herd of buffaloe came near our camp and Capt. Clark with a party of the
hunters indeavoured to get a shoot at them but the wind proved
unfavourable and they ran off; the hunters pursued and killed three of
them; we had most of the meat brought in and set a party to drying it.
their skins were all brought in and streached to dry for the purpose of
covering the baggage. 2 Wolves and three Antelopes also killed today.
we permitted three other men to visit the falls today; these were the
last of the party who had not as yet indulged themselves with this
grand and interesting seen. the buffaloe again appear in great numbers
about our camp and seem to be moving down the river. it is somewhat
remarkable that altho you may see ten or a douzen herds of buffaloe
distinctly scattered and many miles distant yet if they are undisturbed
by pursuit, they will all be traveling in one direction. the men who
were permitted to visit the falls today returned in the evening and
reported that the buffaloe were very numerous in that quarter; and as
the country is more broken near the river in that quarter we conclude
to dispatch a couple of canoes tomorrow with some hunters to kill as
many as will answer our purposes.
The plains in this part of the country are not so fertile as below the
entrance of the Cockkle or missel shell river and from thence down the
Missouri there is also much more stone on the sides of the hills and on
the broken lands than below.-
[Clark, July 5, 1805]
July 5th Friday 1805
A fine morning and but little wind, worm and Sultrey at 8 oClock- I Saw
a large gangue of Buffalow and prosued them with Several men the wind
was unfavourable and we Could not get near them, the party Scattered &
Killed 3 buffalow and brought in their Skins and Some meat, Killed 2
wolves & 3 Antilopes for their Skins, Capt. Lewis much engaged in
Completeing the Leather boat. Three men went to See the Falls, Saw
great numbers of Buffalow on both Sides of the river. great numbers of
young black birds
[Lewis, July 6, 1805]
Saturday July 6th 1805
In the couse of last night had several showers of hail and rain
attended with thunder and lightning. about day a heavy storm came on
from the S W attended with hail rain and a continued roar of thunder
and some lightning. the hail was as large as musket balls and covered
the ground perfectly. we hand some of it collected which kept very well
through the day and served to cool our water. These showers and gusts
keep my boat wet in dispite of my exertions. she is not yet ready for
the grease and coal. after the hail and rain was over this morning we
dispatched 4 hunters and two canoes to the head of the rappids as we
had determined last evening. the red and yellow courants are now ripe
and abundant, they are reather ascid as yet. There is a remarkable
small fox which ascociate in large communities and burrow in the
praries something like the small wolf but we have not as yet been able
to obtain one of them; they are extreemly watchfull and take reffuge in
their burrows which are very deep; we have seen them no where except
near these falls.
[Clark, July 6, 1805]
July 6th Satturday 1805
a heavy wind from the S W and Some rain about mid night last, at day
light this morning a verry black Cloud from the S W, with a Contined
rore of thunder & Some lightening and rained and hailed tremendiously
for about 1/2 an hour, the hail was the Size of a musket ball and
Covered the ground. this hail & rain was accompand. by a hard wind
which lasted for a fiew minits. Cloudy all the forepart of the day,
after Part Clear. dispatched 4 men in 2 Canoes to the falls, to kill
Buffalow, for their Skins & Meat others employd about the boat, I
cought Some Small fish this evening.
[Lewis, July 7, 1805]
Sunday July 7th 1805.
The weather warm and cloudy therefore unfavourable for many operations;
I keep small fires under the boat; the blowing flies are innumerable
about it; the moisture retained by the bark prevents it from drying as
fast as it otherwise would. we dispatched two other hunters to kill Elk
or buffaloe for their skins to cover our baggage. we have no tents; the
men are therefore obliged to have recourse to the sails for shelter
from the weather and we have not more skins than are sufficient to
cover our baggage when stoed away in bulk on land. many of the men are
engaged in dressing leather to cloath themselves. their leather
cloathes soon become rotton as they are much exposed to the water and
frequently wet. Capt. Clarks black man York is very unwell today and he
gave him a doze of tartar emettic which operated very well and he was
much better in the evening. this is a discription of medecine that I
nevr have recourse to in my practice except in cases of the
intermittent fever. this evening the hunters returned with the canoes
and brought thre buffaloe skins only and two Antelope 4 deer and three
wolf skins; they reported that the buffaloe had gone further down the
river. the two hunters whom we sent out from hence returned also
without having killed anything except one Elk. I set one of the party
at work to make me some sacks of the wolf skins, to transport my
Instruments when occasion requirs their being carried any distance by
land.- we had a light shower of rain about 4 P.M. attended with some
thunder and lightning. one beaver caught this morning. the musquetoes
are excessively troublesome to us. I have prepared my composition which
I should have put on this evening but the rain prevented me.
[Clark, July 7, 1805]
July 7th Sunday 1805
A Warm day wind from the S. W Cloudy as usial, the four men hunters did
not return last night. dispatched 2 men to kill Elk for the use of
their Skin for the boat. my man York Sick, I give him a dosh of Tarter.
Some rain in the after part of the day in the evining the hunters
returned with three buffalow Skins two goat Skins, four Deer Skins, two
deer, & 3 wolve Skins, to be used in Covering the boat Canoes & to make
mockersons, one Elk also killed to day
[Lewis, July 8, 1805]
Monday July 8th 1805.
Capt. Clark Determined to make a second effort to replace the notes
which he had made with rispect to the river and falls accordingly he
set out after an early breakfast and took with him the greater part of
the men with a view also to kill buffaloe should there be any in that
quarter. after geting some distance in the plains he divided the party
and sent them in different directions and himself and two others struck
the Missouri at the entrance of medicine river and continued down it to
the great Cataract, from whence he returned through the plains to camp
where he arrived late in the evening. the hunters also returned having
killed 3 buffaloe 2 Antelopes and a deer. he informed me that the
immence herds of buffaloe which we had seen for some time past in this
neighbourhood have almost entirely disappeared and he beleives are gone
down the river.
The day being warm and fair about 12 OCk. the boat was sufficiently dry
to receive a coat of the composition which I accordingly applyed. this
adds very much to her appearance whether it will be effectual or not.
it gives her hull the appearance of being formed of one solid piece.
after the first coat had cooled I gave her a second which I think has
made it sufficiently thick. The mountains which ly before us from the
South, to the N. W. still continue covered with snow. one hunter also
passed the river to hunt this morning in the evening he returned having
killed a Buck and a male Antelope. The party who were down with Capt.
Clark also killed a small fox which they brought with them. it was a
female appeared to give suck, otherwise it is so much like the comm
small fox of this country commonly called the kit fox that I should
have taken it for a young one of that species; however on closer
examination it did apear to differ somewhat; it's colour was of a
lighter brown, it's years proportionably larger, and the tale not so
large or the hair not so long which formed it. they are very delicately
formed, exceedingly fleet, and not as large as the common domestic cat.
their tallons appear longer than any species of fox I ever saw and seem
therefore prepared more amply by nature for the purpose of burrowing.
there is sufficient difference for discrimination between it and the
kit fox, and to satisfy me perfectly that it is a distinct species. the
men also brought me a living ground squirrel which is something larger
than those of the U States or those of that kind which are also common
here. this is a much hadsomer anamal. like the other it's principal
colour is a redish brown but is marked longitudinally with a much
greater number of black or dark bron stripes; the spaces between which
is marked by ranges of pure white circular spots, about the size of a
brister blue shot. these colours imbrace the head neck back and sides;
the tail is flat, or the long hair projecting horizontally from two
sides of it only gives it that appearance. the belly and breast are of
much lighter brown or nearly white. this is an inhabitant of the open
plain altogether, wher it burrows and resides; nor is it like the other
found among clifts of rocks or in the woodlands. their burrows
sometimes like those of the mole run horizontally near the surface of
the ground for a considerable distance, but those in which they reside
or take refuge strike much deeper in the earth.- Slight rain this
afternoon. musquetoes troublesome as usual.
[Clark, July 8, 1805]
July 8th Monday 1805
A worm morning flying Clouds I deturmin take the width of the river at
the falls & the Medison river and to take the greater part of the men
which Can be Speared to Kill Buffalow for their Skins as well as meat,
devided the party & Sent them in different directions to hunt &
proceeded my Self to the mouth of Medison river measured it and found
it to be 137 yards wide, in the narrowest part of the Missouri
imediately above Medison river the Missouri is 300 yards wide, below
and a little above the falls 1440 yards wide with the direction of the
upper great fall 580 yards wide, at the great Spring 270 yards wide, at
the handsom falls of 47 ft. 8 I. the river is 473 yards wide, at the
lower great falls the river is confined within 280 yards, below the
falls the water occupies 93 yards only- after takeing the wedth of the
river at those Sundery placies I returned thro the plains in a direct
line to Camp. Some rain this evening after a verry hot day.- the
mountains which are in view to the South & N W. are Covered with Snow.
those nearer us and forma 3/4 Circle around us is not Covered with Snow
at this time. The hunters killed 3 buffalow, two antelopes, & a Deer to
day- the emence herds of buffalow which was near us a fiew days ago,
has proceeded on down the river, we Can See but a fiew Bulls in the
plains
[Lewis, July 9, 1805]
Tuesday July 9th 1805.
The morning was fair and pleant. the Islands seem crouded with
blackbirds; the young brude is now completely feathered and flying in
common with the others. we corked the canoes and put them in the water
and also launched the boat, she lay like a perfect cork on the water.
five men would carry her with the greatest ease. I now directed seats
to be fixed in her and oars to be fitted. the men loaded the canoes in
readiness to depart. just at this moment a violent wind commenced and
blew so hard that we were obliged to unload the canoes again; a part of
the baggage in several of them got wet before it could be taken out.
the wind continued violent untill late in the evening, by which time we
discovered that a greater part of the composition had seperated from
the skins and left the seams of the boat exposed to the water and she
leaked in such manner that she would not answer. I need not add that
this circumstance mortifyed me not a little; and to prevent her leaking
without pich was impossible with us, and to obtain this article was
equally impossible, therefore the evil was irraparable I now found that
the section formed of the buffaloe hides on which some hair had been
left, answered much the best purpose; this leaked but little and the
parts which were well covered with hair about 1/8th of an inch in
length retained the composition perfectly and remained sound and dry.
from these circumstances I am preswaided, that had I formed her with
buffaloe skins singed not quite as close as I had done those I
employed, that she would have answered even with this composition. but
to make any further experiments in our present situation seemed to me
madness; the buffaloe had principally dserted us, and the season was
now advancing fast. I therefore relinquished all further hope of my
favorite boat and ordered her to be sunk in the water, that the skins
might become soft in order the better to take her in peices tomorrow
and deposite the iron fraim at this place as it could probably be of no
further service to us. had I only singed my Elk skins in stead of
shaving them I beleive the composition would have remained and the boat
have answered; at least untill we could have reached the pine country
which must be in advance of us from the pine which is brought down by
the water and which is probably at no great distance where we might
have supplyed ourselves with the necessary pich or gum. but it was now
too late to introduce a remidy and I bid a dieu to my boat, and her
expected services.- The next difficulty which presented itself was how
we should convey the stores and baggage which we had purposed carrying
in the boat. both Capt. Clark and myself recollected having heard the
hunters mention that the bottoms of the river some few miles above us
were much better timbered than below and that some of the trees were
large. the idea therefore suggested itself of building two other canoes
sufficiently large to carry the surplus baggage. on enquiry of the
hunters it seemed to be the general opinion that trees sufficiently a
large for this purpose might be obtained in a bottom on the opposite
side about 8 miles distant by land and reather more than double that
distance by water; accordingly Capt. Clark determined to set out early
in the morning with ten of the best workmen and proceede by land to
that place while the others would in the mean time be employed by
myself in taking the Boat in peices and depositing her, together with
the articles which we had previously determined to deposit at this
place, and also in trasporting all the baggage up the river to that
point in the six small canoes. this plan being settled between us
orders were accordingly given to the party, and the ten men who were to
accompany Capt. Clark had ground and prepared their axes and adds this
evening in order to prepare for an early departure in the morning. we
have on this as well as on many former occasions found a small
grindstone which I brought with me from Harper's ferry extreemly
convenient to us. if we find trees at the place mentioned sufficiently
large for our purposes it will be extreemly fortunate; for we have not
seen one for many miles below the entrance of musselshell River to this
place, which would have answered.-
[Clark, July 9, 1805]
July 9th Tuesday 1805
a clear worm morning wind from the S W. Lanced the Leather boat, and
found that it leaked a little; Corked Lanced & loaded the Canoes,
hurried our truk wheels, & made a Carsh for a Skin & a fiew papers I
intend to leave here on trial found the leather boat would not answer
without the addition of Tar which we had none of, haveing Substituted
Cole & Tallow in its place to Stop the Seams &c. which would not answer
as it Seperated from the Skins when exposed to the water and left the
Skins naked & Seams exposed to the water this falire of our favourate
boat was a great disapointment to us, we haveing more baggage than our
Canoes would Carry. Concluded to build Canoes for to Carry them; no
timber near our Camp. I deturmined to proceed on up the river to a
bottom in which our hunters reported was large Trees &c.
[Lewis, July 10, 1805]
Wednesday July 10th 1805.
Capt. Clark set out with his party early this morning and passed over
to the opposite side. after which I dispatched Sergt. Ordway with 4
Canoes and 8 men to take up a load of baggage as far as Capt. Clark's
camp and return for the remainder of our plunder. with six others I now
set to work on my boat, which had been previously drawn out of the
water before the men departed, and in two hours had her fraim in
readiness to be deposited. had a cash dug and deposited the Fraim of
the boat, some papers and a few other trivial articles of but little
importance. the wind blew very hard the greater part of the day. I also
had the truck wheels buried in the pit which had been made to hold the
tar. having nothing further to do I amused myself in fishing and caught
a few small fish; they were of the species of white chub mentioned
below the falls, tho they are small and few in number. I had thought on
my first arrival here that there were no fish in this part of the
river. Capt. Clark proceeded up the river 8 miles by land (distance by
water 231/4) and found 2 trees of Cottonwood and cut them down; one
proved to be hollow and split in falling at the upper part and was
somewhat windshaken at bottom; the other proved to be much windshaken.
he surched the bottom for better but could not find any he therefore
determined to make canoes of those which he had fallen; and to contract
their length in such manner as to clear the craks and the worst of the
windsken parts making up the deficiency by allowing them to be as wide
as the trees would permit. they were much at a loss for wood to make
axhandles. the Chokecherry is the best we can procure for this purpose
and of that wood they made and broke thir 13 handles in the course of
this part of a day. had the eyes of our axes been round they would have
answered this country much better. the musquetoes were very troublesome
to them as well as ourselves today. Sergt. Ordway proceeded up the
river about 5 miles when the wind became so violent that he was obliged
to ly by untill late in the evening when he again set out with the
canoes and arrived within 3 miles of Capt. Clark's Camp where he halted
for the night. about five miles above whitebear camp there are two
Islands in the river covered with Cottonwood box alder and some sweet
willow also the undergrowth like that of the islands at this place.-
[Clark, July 10, 1805]
July 10th Wednesday 1805
a fair windey day wind hard the most of the day from the S. W.rained
modderately all last night (by Showers) we dispatched Serjt. Ordway
with 4 Canoes loaded & 8 men by water to assend as high as I Should
have found timber for Canoes & formed a Camp;-. I Set out with Sergt.
Pryor four Choppers two Involids & one man to hunt, Crossed to the Std.
Side and proceeded on up the river 8 miles by land (distance by water
231/4 ms.) and found two Trees which I thought would make Canoes, had
them fallen, one of them proved to be hollow & Split at one End & verry
much win Shaken at the other, the other much win Shaken, we Serched the
bottoms for better trees and made a trial of Several which proved to be
more indifferent. I deturmined to make Canoes out of the two first
trees we had fallen, to Contract thir length so as to clear the hollow
& winshakes, & ad to the width as much as the tree would allow. The
Musquitors emencely noumerous & troublesom, Killed two deer & a goat.
The Canoes did not arrive as I expected, owing to the hard wind which
blew a head in maney places. we ar much at a loss for wood to make ax
hilthes,13 hath been made & broken in this piece of a day by the four
Choppers, no other wood but Cotton Box elder Choke Cherry and red arrow
wood. we Substitute the Cherry in place of Hickory for ax hilthes ram
rods, &c. &c.
[Lewis, July 11, 1805]
Thursday July 11th 1805.
We had now nothing to do but wait for the canoes; as they had not
returned I sent out some of the small party with me to hunt; in the
evening they returned with a good quantity of the flesh of a fat
buffaloe which they had killed. the canoes not arrived this evening. I
saw several very large grey Eagles today they are a half as large again
as the common bald Eagle of this country. I do not think the bald Eagle
here qute so large as those of the U States; the grey Eagle is
infinitely larger and is no doubt a distinct species. this evening a
little before the sun set I heared two other discharges of this
unaccounable artillery of the Rocky Mountains proceeding from the same
quarter that I had before heard it. I now recollected the Minnetares
making mention of the nois which they had frequently heard in the Rocky
Mountains like thunder; and which they said the mountains made; but I
paid no attention to the information supposing it either false or the
fantom of a supersticious immagination. I have also been informed by
the engages that the Panis and Ricaras give the same account of the
Black mountains which lye West of them. this phenomenon the philosophy
of the engages readily accounts for; they state it to be the bursting
of the rich mines of silver which these mountains contain.
This morning Capt. Clark dispatched Bratton to meet the canoes which
were detained by the wind to get a couple of axes. he obtained the axes
and returned in about two hours. this man has been unable to work for
several days in consequence of a whitlow on one of his fingers; a
complaint which has been very common among the men. one of the canoes
arrived at Capt. Clarks camp about 10 A.M. this he had unloaded and set
a few miles up the river for a buffaloe which had been killed, the
party sent killed another in thir rout and brought in the flesh and
skins of both they were in good order; his hunters had also killed two
deer and an Antelope yesterday. the three other canoes did not arrive
untill late in the evening in consequence of the wind and the fear of
weting their loads which consisted of articles much more liable to be
injured by moisture than those which composed the load of that which
arrived in the morning. Capt. C. had the canoes unloaded and ordered
them to float down in the course of the night to my camp, but the wind
proved so high after night that they were obliged to put too about 8
miles above and remain untill morning. Capt. C. kept the party with him
busily engaged at the canoes. his hunters killed and brought in three
very fat deer this evening.
[Clark, July 11, 1805]
July 11th Thursday 1805
a fair windey morning wind S. W. I dispatch W Bratten (who cannot work
he haveing a turner rising on his finger) to meat the Canoes & bring
from them two axes, which is necessary for the work at the perogues or
Canoes, and is indespenceable he returned in about two hours & informed
that one Canoe was within three miles, about 1 oClock the Canoe which
Bratten left arrived haveing killed a Buffalow on the river above our
Camp, at which place the bend of the river below & that above is about
1 mile apart, I dispatched Serjt. Pryor with 3 men in the Canoe to get
the meat they killed another buffalow near the one killed and brought
the meat of both down. at Sunset the 3 remaining Canoes arrived
unloaded & returned imeadeately with orders to flote down to Camp at
the portage to night for the purpose of takeing up the remaining
baggage. Musquitors verry troublesom, and in addition to their torments
we have a Small Knat, which is as disagreeable, our hunter killed 3
Deer to day one of them verry fat. all the men with me engaged about
the Canoes hunting &c. &.
[Lewis, July 12, 1805]
Friday July 12th 1805.
The canoes not having arrived and the wind still high I dispatched
Sergt. Gass with three men to join Capt. Clark and assist in completing
the canoes retaining only a few who in addition to those in the canoes
that I expect every moment, will be sufficient to man the six canoes
and take up all the baggage we have here at one load. I feel
excessively anxious to be moving on. the canoes were detained by the
wind untill 2 P.M. when they set out and arrived at this place so late
that I thought it best to detain them untill morning. Bratton came down
today for a cople of axes which I sent by him; he returned immediately.
Sergt. Gass and party joined Capt. Clark at 10 A.M. Capt. C. kept all
the men with him busily engaged some in drying meat, others in hunting,
and as many as could be employed about the canoes. Segt. Pryor got his
sholder dislocated yesterday, it was replaced immediately and is likely
to do him but little injury; it is painfull to him today. the hunters
with Capt. C. killed three deer and two otter today. the otter are now
plenty since the water has become sufficiently clear for them to take
fish. the blue crested fisher, or as they are sometimes called the
Kingfisher, is an inhabitant of this part of the country; this bird is
very rare on the Missouri; I have not seen more than three or four of
those birds during my voyage from the entrance of the Missouri to the
mouth of Maria's river and those few were reather the inhabitants of
streams of clerer water which discharged themselves into the Missouri
than of that river, as they were seen about the entrances of such
streams. Musquetoes extreemly troublesome to me today nor is a large
black knat less troublesome, which dose not sting, but attacks the eye
in swarms and compells us to brush them off or have our eyes filled
with them. I made the men dry the ballance of the freshe meet which we
had abot the camp amounting to about 200 lbs.
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