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Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark

M >> Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark




[Clark, June 29, 1805]
Junne 29th Saltarday 1805
a little rain verry early this morning after Clear, finding that the
Prarie was So wet as to render it impossible to pass on to the end of
the portage, deturmined to Send hack to the top of the hill at the
Creek for the remaining part of the baggage left at that place
yesterday, leaveing one man to take care of the baggage at this place.
I deturmined any Self to proceed on to the falls and take the river,
according we all Set out., I took my Servent & one man Chabono our
Interpreter & his Squar accompanied, Soon after I arrived at the falls,
I perceived a Cloud which appeared black and threaten imediate rain, I
looked out for a Shelter but Could See no place without being in great
danger of being blown into the river if the wind Should prove as
turbelant as it is at Some times about 1/4 of a mile above the falls I
obsd a Deep rivein in which was Shelveing rocks under which we took
Shelter near the river and placed our guns the Compass &c. &c. Under a
Shelveing rock on the upper Side of the Creek, in a place which was
verry Secure from rain, the first Shower was moderate accompanied with
a violent wind, the effects of which we did not feel, Soon after a
torrent of rain and hail fell more violent than ever I Saw before, the
rain fell like one voley of water falling from the heavens and gave us
time only to get out of the way of a torrent of water which was Poreing
down the hill in the rivin with emence force tareing every thing before
it takeing with it large rocks & mud, I took my gun & Shot pouch in my
left hand, and with the right Scrambled up the hill pushing the
Interpreters wife (who had her Child in her arms) before me, the
Interpreter himself makeing attempts to pull up his wife by the hand
much Scared and nearly without motion- we at length retched the top of
the hill Safe where I found my Servent in Serch of us greatly agitated,
for our wellfar-. before I got out of the bottom of the revein which
was a flat dry rock when I entered it, the water was up to my waste &
wet my watch, I Scrcely got out before it raised 10 feet deep with a
torrent which turrouble to behold, and by the time I reached the top of
the hill, at least 15 feet water, I directed the party to return to the
Camp at the run as fast as possible to get to our lode where Clothes
Could be got to Cover the Child whose Clothes were all lost, and the
woman who was but just recovering from a Severe indispostion, and was
wet and Cold, I was fearfull of a relaps I caused her as also the
others of the party to take a little Spirits, which my Servent had in a
Canteen, which revived verry much. on arrival at the Camp on the willow
run-met the party who had returned in great Confusion to the run
leaveing their loads in the Plain, the hail & wind being So large and
violent in the plains, and them naked, they were much brused, and Some
nearly killed one knocked down three times, and others without hats or
any thing on their heads bloodey & Complained verry much; I refreshed
them with a little grog- Soon after the run began to rise and rose 6
feet in a few minits-. I lost at the river in the torrent the large
Compas, an eligant fusee, Tomahawk Humbrallo, Shot pouh, & horn wih
powder & Ball, mockersons, & the woman lost her Childs Bear & Clothes
bedding &c.- The Compass is a Serious loss; as we have no other large
one. The plains are So wet that we Can do nothing this evining
particilarly as two deep reveins are between ourselves & Load

[Lewis, June 30, 1805]
Sunday June 30th 1805.
We had a heavy dew this morning which is a remarkable event. Fraizer
and Whitehouse still continue their opperation of sewing the skins
together. I set Shields and gass to shaving bark and Fields continued
to make the cross brases. Drewyer and myself rendered a considerable
quantity of tallow and cooked. I begin to be extremely impatient to be
off as the season is now waisting a pace nearly three months have now
elapsed since we left Fort Mandan and not yet reached the Rocky
Mountains I am therefore fully preswaded that we shall not reach Fort
Mandan again this season if we even return from the ocean to the Snake
Indians. wherever we find timber there is also beaver; Drewyer killed
two today. There are a number of large bat or goatsucker here I killed
one of them and found that there was no difference between them and
those common to the U States; I have not seen the leather winged bat
for some time nor is there any of the small goatsuckers in this quarter
of the country. we have not the whip-poor-will either. this last is by
many persons in the U States confounded with the large goat-sucker or
night-hawk as it is called in the Eastern States, and are taken for the
same bird. it is true that there is a great resemblance but they are
distinct species of the goatsucker. here the one exists without the
other. the large goat sucker lays it's eggs in these open plains
without the preperation of a nest we have found their eggs in several
instances they lay only two before they set nor do I beleive that they
raise more than one brood in a season; they have now just hatched their
young.- This evening the bark was shaved and the leather covering for
the sections were also completed and I had them put into the water, in
order to toughen the bark, and prepare the leather for sewing on the
sections in the morning. it has taken 28 Elk skins and 4 Buffaloe skins
to complete her. the crossbars are also finished this evening; we have
therefore only the way strips now to obtain in order to complete the
wood work, and this I fear will be a difficult task. The party have not
returned from the lower camp I am therefore fearfull that some uncommon
accedent has happened.

Occurrences with Capt. Clark and Party

This morning Capt. Clark dispatched two men to kill some buffaloe, two
others to the falls to surch for the articles lost yesterday, one he
retained to cook and sent the others for the baggage left in the plains
yesterday. the hunters soon returned loaded with meat those sent for
the baggage brought it up in a few hours, he then set four men at work
to make axeltrees and repare the carrages; the others he employed in
conveying the baggage over the run on their sholders it having now
fallent to about 3 feet water. the men complained much today of the
bruises and wounds which they had received yesterday from the hail. the
two men sent to the falls returned with the compas which they found
covered in the mud and sand near the mouth of the rivene the other
articles were irrecoverably lost. they found that part of rivene in;
which Capt. C. had been seting yesterday, filled with huge rocks. at 11
A.M. Capt. Clark dispatched the party with a load of the baggage as far
as the 6 miles stake, with orders to deposit it there and return with
the carriages which they did accordingly. they experienced a heavy gust
of wind this evening from the S. W. after which it was a fair
afternoon. more buffaloe than usual were seen about their camp; Capt. C
assured me that he beleives he saw at least ten thousand at one view.

[Clark, June 30, 1805]
June 30th Sunday 1805.
a fair morning, I dispatch the party except 5 for the remaining baggage
Scattered in the plains, two to hunt for meat, two to the falls, and
one to Cook at 10 oClock the hunters Came in loaded with fat meat, &
those were dispatched for the baggage returned with it. I Set 4 men to
make new axeltrees & repare the Carrages, others to take the load
across the run which had fallen & is about 3 feet water, men Complain
of being Swore this day dull and lolling about, The two men dispatched
in Serch of the articls lost yesterday returned and brought the Compass
which they found in the mud & Stones near the mouth of the revein, no
other articles found, the place I Sheltered under filled up with hugh
Rocks, I Set the party out at 11 oClock to take a load to the 6 mile
Stake & return this evening, and I intend to take on the ballance to
the river tomorrow if the prarie will permit. at 3 oClock a Storm of
wind from the S. W. after which we had a clear evening. Great numbers
of Buffalow in every direction, I think 10,000 may be Seen in a view.

[Lewis, July 1, 1805]
Monday July 1st 1805.
This morning I set Frazier and Whitehouse to sewing the leather on the
sides of the sections of the boat; Shields and J. Fields to collect and
split light wood and prepare a pit to make tar. Gas I set at work to
make the way strips out of some willow limbs which tho indifferent were
the best which could be obtained. Drewyer and myself completed the
opperation of rendering the tallow; we obtained about 100 lbs. by
evening the skins were all attatched to their sections and I returned
them again to the water. all matters were now in readiness to commence
the opperation of puting the parts of the boat together in the morning.
the way strips are not yet ready but will be done in time as I have
obtained the necessary timber. the difficulty in obtaining the
necessary materials has retarded my operations in forming this boat
extreemly tedious and troublesome; and as it was a novel peice of
machinism to all who were employed my constant attention was necessary
to every part of the work; this together with the duties of cheif cook
has kept me pretty well employed. at 3 P.M. Capt. Clark arrived with
the party all very much fortiegued. he brought with him all the baggage
except what he had deposited yesterday at the six mile stake, for which
the party were too much fortiegued to return this evening. we gave them
a dram and suffered them to rest from their labours this evening. I
directed Bratton to assist in making the tar tomorrow, and scelected
several others to assist in puting the boat together. the day has been
warm and the Musquetoes troublesome of course the bear were about our
camp all last night, we have therefore determined to beat up their
quarters tomorrow, and kill them or drive them from their haunts about
this place.

[Clark, July 1, 1805]
White Bear Islands above the Falls of the Missouri July 1st Monday 1805
I arrived at this place to day at 3 oClock P.M. with the party from the
lower part of the portage much fatigued &c.

[Clark, July 1, 1805]
July 1st Monday 1805.
We Set out early this morning with the remaining load, and proceeded on
verry well to Capt Lewis's Camp where we arrived at 3 oClock, the Day
worm and party much fatigued, found Capt. Lewis and party all buisey
employd in fitting up the Iron boat, the wind hard from the S, W,- one
man verry unwell, his legs & theis broke out and Swelled the hail which
fell at Capt. Lewis Camp 27 Ins was 7 Inches in circumfrance & waied 3
ounces, fortunately for us it was not So large in the plains, if it had
we Should most certainly fallen victims to its rage as the men were
mostly naked, and but few with hats or any covering on their heads, The
hunters killed 3 white bear one large, the fore feet of which measured
9 Inchs across, the hind feet 11 Inchs 3/4 long & 7 Inch's wide a bear
nearly Catching Joseph Fields Chased him into the water, bear about the
Camp every night & Seen on an Isld. in the day

[Lewis, July 2, 1805]
Tuesday July 2cd 1805
A shower of rain fell very early this morning after which we dispatched
the men for the remaining baggage at the 6 mile stake. Shields and
Bratton seting their tarkiln, Sergts. Pryor and Gass at work on the
waystrips and myself and all other hands engaged in puting the boat
together which we accomplished in about 3 hours and I then set four men
at work sewing the leather over the cross bars of Iron on the inner
side of the boat, which form the ends of the sections. about 2 P.M. the
party returned with the baggage, all well pleased that they had
completed the laborious task of the portage. The Musquetoes uncommonly
troublesome the wind hard from the S. W. all day I think it possible
that these almost perpetual S. W. winds proceede from the agency of the
Snowey Mountains and the wide level and untimbered plains which streach
themselves along their bases for an immence distance (i e) that the air
comeing in contact with the snow is suddonly chilled and condenced,
thus becoming heaver than the air beneath in the plains, it glides down
the sides of these mountains & decends to the plains, where by the
constant action of the sun on the face of an untimbered country there
is a partial vacuum formed for it's reception. I have observed that the
winds from this quarter are always the coldest and most violent which
we experience, yet I am far from giving full credit to my own
hypothesis on this subject; if hoever I find on the opposite side of
these mountains that the winds take a contrary direction I shall then
have more faith. After I had completed my observation of Equal
Altitudes today Capt. Clark Myself and 12 men passed over to the large
Island to hunt bear. the brush in that part of it where the bear
frequent is an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad leafed willow;
this brush we entered in small parties of 3 or four together and
surched in every part. we found one only which made at Drewyer and he
shot him in the brest at the distance of about 20 feet, the ball
fortunately passed through his heart, the stroke knocked the bear down
and gave Drewyer time to get out of his sight; the bear changed his
course we pursued him about a hundred yards by the blood and found him
dead; we surched the thicket in every part but found no other, and
therefore returned. this was a young male and would weigh about 400
lbs. the water of the Missouri here is in most places about 10 feet
deep. after our return, in moving some of the baggage we caught a large
rata it was somewhat larger than the common European rat, of lighter
colour; the body and outer part of the legs and head of a light lead
colour, the belly and inner side of the legs white as were also the
feet and years. the toes were longer and the ears much larger than the
common rat; the ears uncovered with hair. the eyes were black and
prominent the whiskers very long and full. the tail was reather longer
than the body and covered with fine fur or poil of the same length and
colour of the back. the fur was very silkey close and short. I have
frequently seen the nests of these rats in clifts of rocks and hollow
trees but never before saw one of them. they feed very much on the
fruit and seed of the prickly pear; or at least I have seen large
quantities of the hulls of that fruit lying about their holes and in
their nests.

[Clark, July 2, 1805]
July 2nd Tuesday 1805
Some rain at day light this morning. dispatched the party for the
remaining baggage left at the 6 mile Stake, they returned in the
evening and we Crossed to a large Island nearly opposit to us to kill
bear which has been Seen frequently in the Island, we killed one bear &
returned at Sun Set. The Roreing of the falls for maney miles above us

[Clark, July 2, 1805]
July 2nd Tuesday 1805
Some rain at day light this morn'g after which a fair morning,
dispatched the men for the Kegs &c. left at the Six mile Stake, others
to get timber for the boat &c. Musquetors verry troublesom to day, day
worm, after the return of the men with the articles left at the 6 mile
Stake Capt. Lewis my Self & 12 men Crossed to an Island on which we Saw
a bear the evening before, & Several had been Seen by the party at this
place, we killed one of the bear and returned. The river at this place
is ____ yards wide and about 10 feet water Cought a rat in our Stores,
which had done some mischief, this rat was about the Sise of a Comn.
large rat, larger ears, long whiskers & toes, with a tail long & hairey
like a ground Squirel, verry fine fur and lighter than the Common rat.
Wind to day as usial from the S. W. and hard all the after part of the
day, those winds are also Cool and generally verry hard.

[Lewis, July 3, 1805]
Wednesday July 3rd 1805.
This morning early we employed all hands; some were making tar or
attempting to make it, others were attatching the skins on the boat,
other cuting and fiting the bark for lining puting in the woodworke &c
some hunters were sent out to kill buffaloe in order to make pemecon to
take with us and also for their skins which we now want to cover our
baggage in the boat and canoes when we depart from hence. the Indians
have informed us that we should shortly leave the buffaloe country
after passing the falls; this I much regret for I know when we leave
the buffaloe that we shal sometimes be under the necessity of fasting
occasionally. and at all events the white puddings will be
irretreivably lost and Sharbono out of imployment. our tar-kiln which
ought to have began to run this morning has yealded no tar as yet and I
am much affraid will not yeald any, if so I fear the whole opperation
of my boat will be useless. I fear I have committed another blunder
also in sewing the skins with a nedle which has sharp edges these have
cut the skin and as it drys I discover that the throng dose not fill
the holes as I expected tho I made them sew with a large throng for
that purpose. at 10 OCk A.M. we had a slight shower which scarcely wet
the grass. One buffaloe only and 2 Antelopes killed today six beaver
and 2 otter have been killed within the last three days. The current of
the river looks so gentle and inviting that the men all seem anxious to
be moving upward as well as ourselves. we have got the boat prety well
forward today and think we shall be able to complete her tomorrow
except paying her, to do which will require some little time to make
her first perfectly dry. she has assumed her shape and looks extreemly
well. She will be very light, more so than any vessel of her size that
I ever saw.

[Clark, July 3, 1805]
July 3rd Wednesday 1805
all of party employd in Sowing the Skins to the boat, burning Tare,
preparing timber, hunting buffalow for their meat & Skins, drying &
repacking the Stores, Goods &c. &c. at 1 oClock began to rain. in the
evening the hunters killed two antilopes & a Buffalow.

[Clark, July 3, 1805]
July 3rd Wednesday 1805
A fine morning wind from the S. W all the party employd, Some about the
boat, attaching the Skins & Sowing them to the Sections, others
prepareing timber, Some, burning tar of the drift pine, Some airring
and repacking the Stores & Goods, & others hunting for Meet to make
pemitigon & for the use of their Skins to Cover the Canoes & boat,-. a
Small Shower at 1 oClock which did Scercely wet the grass-. one
buffalow and two Antilopes Killed this evening. Six beaver & 2 orters
has been Killed at this camp within a fiew days we discover no fish
above the falls as yet- the only timber in this part of the Countrey is
willow, a fiew Cotton trees which is neither large nor tall, Boxalders
and red wood. (Boil roche arrow wood)

The water tolerably clear and Soft in the river, Current jentle and
bottoms riseing from the water; no appearance of the river riseing more
than a few feet above the falls, as high up as we have yet explored.
but few trees on the Std Side the grass is high and fine near the
river. the winds has blown for Several days from the S. W. I think it
possible that those almost perpetial S W. winds, proceed from the
agency of the Snowey mountains and the wide leavel and untimbered
plains which Streach themselves along their borders for an emence
distance, that the air comeing in Contact with the Snow is Suddenly
chilled and condensed, thus becomeing heavyer than the air beneath in
the plains it glides down the Sides of those mountains and decends to
the plains, where by the constant action of the Sun on the face of the
untimbered country there is a partial vacuom formed for it's reception
I have observed that the winds from this quarter is always the Coaldest
and most violent which we experience, yet I am far from giveing full
credit to this hypothesis on this Subject; if I find however on the
opposit Side of these mountains that the winds take a contrary
direction I Shall then have full faith. (The winds take a contrary
direction in the morning or from the mountains on the west Side)

[Lewis, July 4, 1805]
Thursday July 4th 1805.
Yesterday we permitted Sergt. Gass McNeal and several others who had
not yet seen the falls to visit them. no appearance of tar yet and I am
now confident that we shall not be able to obtain any; a serious
misfortune. I employed a number of hands on the boat today and by 4
P.M. in the evening completed her except the most difficult part of the
work that of making her seams secure. I had her turned up and some
small fires kindled underneath to dry her. Capt. C. completed a draught
of the river from Fort Mandan to this place which we intend depositing
at this place in order to guard against accedents. not having seen the
Snake Indians or knowing in fact whether to calculate on their
friendship or hostility or friendship we have conceived our party
sufficiently small and therefore have concluded not to dispatch a canoe
with a part of our men to St. Louis as we had intended early in the
spring. we fear also that such a measure might possibly discourage
those who would in such case remain, and might possibly hazzard the
fate of the expedition. we have never once hinted to any one of the
party that we had such a scheme in contemplation, and all appear
perfectly to have made up their minds to suceed in the expedition or
purish in the attempt. we all beleive that we are now about to enter on
the most perilous and difficult part of our voyage, yet I see no one
repining; all appear ready to met those difficulties which wait us with
resolution and becoming fortitude. we had a heavy dew this morning. the
clouds near these mountains rise suddonly and discharge their contents
partially on the neighbouring plains; the same cloud will discharge
hail alone in one part hail and rain in another and rain only in a
third all within the space of a few miles; and on the Mountains to the
S. E. of us sometimes snow. at present there is no snow on those
mountains; that which covered them when we first saw them and which has
fallen on them several times since has all disappeared. the Mountains
to the N. W. & W. of us are still entirely covered are white and
glitter with the reflection of the sun. I do not beleive that the
clouds which prevail at this season of the year reach the summits of
those lofty mountains; and if they do the probability is that they
deposit snow only for there has been no perceptible deminution of the
snow which they contain since we first saw them. I have thought it
probable that these mountains might have derived their appellation of
shining Mountains, from their glittering appearance when the sun shines
in certain directions on the snow which covers them. since our arrival
at the falls we have repeatedly witnessed a nois which proceeds from a
direction a little to the N. of West as loud and resembling precisely
the discharge of a piece of ordinance of 6 pounds at the distance of
three miles. I was informed of it by the men several times before I
paid any attention to it, thinking it was thunder most probably which
they had mistaken at length walking in the plains the other day I heard
this noise very distictly, it was perfectly calm clear and not a cloud
to be seen, I halted and listened attentively about an hour during
which time I heard two other discharges and tok the direction of the
sound with my pocket compass. I have no doubt but if I had leasure I
could find from whence it issued. I have thout it probable that it
might be caused by runing water in some of the caverns of those immence
mountains, on the principal of the blowing caverns; but in such case
the sounds would be periodical & regular, which is not the case with
this, being sometimes heard once only and at other times, six or seven
discharges in quick succession. it is heard also at different seasons
of the day and night. I am at a loss to account for this phenomenon.
our work being at an end this evening, we gave the men a drink of
sperits, it being the last of our stock, and some of them appeared a
little sensible of it's effects the fiddle was plyed and they danced
very merrily untill 9 in the evening when a heavy shower of rain put an
end to that part of the amusement tho they continued their mirth with
songs and festive jokes and were extreemly merry untill late at night.
we had a very comfortable dinner, of bacon, beans, suit dumplings &
buffaloe beaf &c. in short we had no just cause to covet the sumptuous
feasts of our countrymen on this day.- one Elk and a beaver were all
that was killed by the hunters today; the buffaloe seem to have
withdrawn themselves from this neighbourhood; tho the men inform us
that they are still abundant about the falls.

[Clark, July 4, 1805]
,July the 4th Thursday 1805
A fine morning, a heavy dew last night, all hands employed in
Completeing the leather boat, gave the Party a dram which made Several
verry lively, a black Cloud came up from the S. W, and rained a fiew
drops I employ my Self drawing a Copy of the river to be left at this
place for fear of Some accident in advance, I have left buried below
the falls a Map of the Countrey below Fort Mandan with Sundery private
papers the party amused themselves danceing untill late when a Shower
of rain broke up the amusement, all lively and Chearfull, one Elk and a
beaver kill'd to day. our Tar kill like to turn out nothing from the
following cause.