Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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[Clark, June 24, 1805]
June 24th Monday 1805
a Cloudy morning I rose early had, the remaining Canoe hauled out of
the water to dry and divided the baggage into 3 parcels, one of which
the party took on their backs & one waggon with truk wheels to the
Canoes 3 miles in advance (Those Canoes or 5 of our Canoes were Carried
up the Creek 13/4 of a mile taken out on the bank and left to dry from
which place they are taken up a point and intersects this rout from the
mouth of the Creek at 3 miles from the foot of the rapids) after
getting up their loads they divided men & load & proceeded on with 2
canoes on truck wheels as before, I accompaned them 4 miles and
returned, my feet being verry Sore from the walk over ruts Stones &
hills & thro the leavel plain for 6 days proceeding Carrying my pack
and gun. Some few drops of rain in the fore part of the day, at 6
oClock a black Cloud arose to the N West, the wind shifted from the S
to that point and in a short time the earth was entirely Covered with
hail, Some rain Succeeded, which Continud for about an hour very
moderately on this Side of the river, without the earths being wet 1/2
an inch, the riveins on the opposit or N W Side discharged emence
torrents of water into the river, & Showed evidently that the rain was
much heavyer on that Side, Some rain at different times in the night
which was worm- Thunder without lightning accompanied the hail Cloud
[Lewis, June 25, 1805]
Tuesday June 25th 1805.
This morning early I sent the party back to the lower camp; dispatched
Frazier down with the canoe for Drewyer and the meat he had collected,
and Joseph Fields up the Missouri to hunt Elk. at eight OCIk. sent Gass
and Sheilds over to the large Island for bark and timber. about noon
Fields returned and informed me that he had seen two white bear near
the river a few miles above and in attempting to get a shoot them had
stumbled uppon a third which immediately made at him being only a few
steps distant; that in runing in order to escape from the bear he had
leaped down a steep bank of the river on a stony bar where he fell cut
his hand bruised his knees and bent his gun. that fortunately for him
the bank hid him from the bear when he fell and that by that means he
had escaped. this man has been truly unfortunate with these bear, this
is the second time that he has narrowly escaped from them. about 2 P. M
Shields and Gass returned with but a small quantity of both bark and
timber and informed me that it was all they could find on the Island;
they had killed two Elk the skins of which and a part of the flesh they
brought with them. in the evening Drewyer and Frazier arrivd with about
800 lbs. of excellent dryed meat and about 100 lbs of tallow. The river
is about 800 yds. wide opposite to us above these islands, and has a
very gentle current the bottoms are hadsome level and extensive on both
sides; the bank on this side is not more than 2 feet above the level of
the water; it is a pretty little grove in which our camp is situated.
there is a species of wild rye which is now heading it rises to the
hight of 18 or 20 inches, the beard is remarkably fine and soft it is a
very handsome grass the culm is jointed and is in every rispect the
wild rye in minuture. great quantities of mint also are here it
resemble the pepper mint very much in taste and appearance. the young
blackbirds which are almost innumerable in these islands just begin to
fly. see a number of water tarripens. I have made an unsuccessfull
attempt to catch fish, and do not think there are any in this part of
the river. The party that returned this evening to the lower camp
reached it in time to take one canoe on the plain and prepare their
baggage for an early start in the morning after which such as were able
to shake a foot amused themselves in dancing on the green to the music
of the violin which Cruzatte plays extreemly well.
Capt. C. somewhat unwell today. he made Charbono kook for the party
against their return. it is worthy of remark that the winds are
sometimes so strong in these plains that the men informed me that they
hoisted a sail in the canoe and it had driven her along on the truck
wheels. this is really sailing on dry land.
[Clark, June 25, 1805]
June 25th Tuesday 1805
a fair worm morning, Clouded & a few drops of rain at 5 oClock A.M.
fair I feel my Self a little unwell with a looseness &c. &c. put out
the Stores to dry & Set Chabonah &c to Cook for the party against their
return-he being the only man left on this Side with me I had a little
Coffee for brackfast which was to me a riarity as I had not tasted any
Since last winter. The wind from the N. W. & worm. This Countrey has a
romantick appearance river inclosed between high and Steep hills Cut to
pieces by revines but little timber and that Confined to the Rivers &
Creek, the Missourie has but a fiew Scattering trees on its borders,
and only one Solitary Cotton tree in sight of my Camp the wood which we
burn is drift wood which is broken to pieces in passing the falls, not
one large tree longer than about 8 or 10 feet to be found drifted below
the falls the plains are inferior in point of Soil to those below, more
Stone on the sides of the hill, grass but a few inches high and but few
flowers in the Plains, great quantites of Choke Cheries, Goose burres,
red & yellow berries, & red & Purple Currents on the edges of water
Courses in bottoms & damp places, about my Camp the Cliffs or bluffs
are a hard red or redish brown earth Containing Iron. we Catch great
quantities of Trout, and a kind of mustel, flat backs & a Soft fish
resembling a Shad and a few Cat. at 5 oClock the party returned,
fatigued as usial, and proceeded to mend their mockersons &c. and G
Shannon & R, Fds. to of the men who ware Sent up the medison river to
hunt Elk, they killed no Elk, Several Buffalow & Deer, and reports that
the river is 120 yds wide and about 8 feet deep Some timber on its
borders- a powerfull rain fell on the party on their rout yesterday Wet
Some fiew articles, and Caused the rout to be So bad wet & Deep thay
Could with dificuelty proceed, Capt. Lewis & the men with him much
employd with the Iron Boat in fitting it for the water, dispatched one
man to George Drewyers Camp below medison river for meat &c. a fair
after noon- great numbers of buffalow water opposit to my Camp everry
day- it may be here worthy of remark that the Sales were hoised in the
Canoes as the men were drawing them and the wind was great relief to
them being Sufficeritly Strong to move the Canoes on the Trucks, this
is Saleing on Dry land in every Sence of the word, Serjeant N Pryor
Sick, the party amused themselves with danceing untill 10 oClock all
Chearfullness and good humer, they all tied up their loads to make an
early Start in the morning.
[Lewis, June 26, 1805]
Wednesday June 26th 1805.
The Musquetoes are extreemly troublesome to us. This morning early I
dispatched J. Fields and Drewyer in one of the canoes up the river to
hunt Elk. set Frazier at work to sew the skins together for the
covering of the boat. Sheilds and Gas I sent over the river to lurch a
small timbered bottom on that side opposite to the Islands for timber
and bark; and to myself I assign the duty of cook as well for those
present as for the party which I expect again to arrive this evening
from the lower camp. I collected my wood and water, boiled a large
quantity of excellent dryed buffaloe meat and made each man a large
suet dumpling by way of a treat. about 4 P.M. Shields and Gass returned
with a better supply of timber than they had yet collected tho not by
any means enough. they brought some bark principally of the Cottonwood
which I found was too brittle and soft for the purpose; for this
article I find my only dependence is the sweet willow which has a tough
& strong bark. Shields and Gass had killed seven buffaloe in their
absence the skins of which and a part of the best of the meat they
brought with them. if I cannot procure a sufficient quantity of Elk's
skins I shall substitute those of the buffaloe. late in the evening the
party arrived with two more canoes and another portion of the baggage.
Whitehouse one of them much heated and fortiegued on his arrivall dank
a very hearty draught of water and was taken almost instanly extreemly
ill. his pulse were very full and I therefore bled him plentifully from
which he felt great relief. I had no other instrument with which to
perform this opperation but my pen knife, however it answered very
well. the wind being from S. E today and favourable the men made
considerable progress by means of their sails.
At the lower Camp. The party set out very early from this place, and
took with them two canoes and a second alotment of baggage consisting
of Parched meal, Pork, powder lead axes, tools, bisquit, portable
soupe, some merchandize and cloathing. Capt. C. gave Sergt. Pryor a
doze of salts this morning and employed Sharbono in rendering the
buffaloe tallow which had been collected there, he obtained a
sufficient quantity to fill three empty kegs. Capt. C. also scelected
the articles to be deposited in the cash consisting of my desk which I
had left for that purpose and in which I had left some books, my
specimens of plants minerals &c. collected from fort Mandan to that
place. also 2 Kegs of Pork, 1/2 a Keg of flour 2 blunderbushes, 1/2 a
keg of fixed ammunition and some other small articles belonging to the
party which could be dispenced with. deposited the swivel and carriage
under the rocks a little above the camp near the river. great numbers
of buffaloe still continue to water daily opposite the camp. The
antelopes still continue scattered and seperate in the plains. the
females with their young only of which they generally have two, and the
males alone. Capt. Clarke measured the rout from the Camp at the
Whitebear Islands to the lower camp which is as follows.-
[Clark, June 26, 1805]
June 26th Wednesday 1805
Some rain last night this morning verry Cloudy the party Set out this
morning verry early with their loads to the Canoe Consisting of Parched
meal Pork Powder Lead axes, Tools Bisquit, P. Soup & Some Merchendize &
Clothes &c. &c. I gave Serjt. Pryor a dolt of Salts, & Set Chabonah to
trying up the Buffalow tallow & put into the empty Kegs &c. I assort
our articles for to be left at this place buried, ____ Kegs of Pork,
1/2 a Keg of flour, 2 blunderbuts, ____ Caterrages a few Small
lumbersom articles Capt Lewiss Desk and Some books & Small articles in
it
The wind from the N. W. verry worm flying Clouds in the evening the
wind Shifted round to the East & blew hard, which is a fair wind for
the two Canoes to Sail on the Plains across the portage, I had three
Kegs of Buffalow Grease tried up. Great numbers of Buffalow opposite to
our Camp watering to day.
[Lewis, June 27, 1805]
Thursday June 27th 1805.
The party returned early this morning for the remaining canoe and
baggage; Whitehouse was not quite well this morning I therefore
detained him and about 10 A.M. set him at work with Frazier sewing the
skins together for the boat; Shields and Gass continued the operation
of shaving and fiting the horizontall bars of wood in the sections of
the boat; the timber is so crooked and indifferent that they make but
little progress, for myself I continued to act the part of cook in
order to keep all hands employed. some Elk came near our camp and we
killed 2 of them at 1 P.M. a cloud arrose to the S. W. and shortly
after came on attended with violent Thunder Lightning and hail &c. (see
notes on diary of the weather for June). soon after this storm was over
Drewyer and J. Fields returned. they were about 4 miles above us during
the storm, the hail was of no uncommon size where they were. They had
killed 9 Elk and three bear during their absence; one of the bear was
the largest by far that we have yet seen; the skin appear to me to be
as large as a common ox. while hunting they saw a thick brushey bottom
on the bank of the river where from the tracks along shore they
suspected that there were bare concealed; they therefore landed without
making any nois and climbed a leaning tree and placed themselves on
it's branches about 20 feet above the ground, when thus securely fixed
they gave a hoop and this large bear instantly rushed forward to the
place from whence he had heard the human voice issue, when he arrived
at the tree he made a short paus and Drewyer shot him in the head. it
is worthy of remark that these bear never climb. the fore feet of this
bear measured nine inches across and the hind feet eleven and - 3/4 in
length & exclusive of the tallons and seven inches in width. a bear
came within thirty yards of our camp last night and eat up about thirty
weight of buffaloe suit which was hanging on a pole. my dog seems to be
in a constant state of alarm with these bear and keeps barking all
night. soon after the storm this evening the water on this side of the
river became of a deep crimson colour which I pesume proceeded from
some stream above and on this side. there is a kind of soft red stone
in the bluffs and bottoms. of the gullies in this neighbourhood which
forms this colouring matter.- At the lower camp. Capt. Clark completed
a draught of the river with the couses and distances from the entrance
of the Missouri to Ft. Mandan, which we intend depositing here in order
to guard against accedents. Sergt. Pryor is somewhat better this
morning. at 4 P.M. the party returned from the upper camp; Capt. C.
gave them a drink of grog; they prepared for the labour of the next
day. soon after the party returned it began to rain accompanyed by some
hail and continued a short time; a second shower fell late in the
evening accompanyed by a high wind from N. W.- the mangled carcases of
several buffaloe pass down the river today which had no doubt perished
in the falls.
[Clark, June 27, 1805]
June 27th Thursday 1805
a fair warm morning wind from the S, E, and moderate. Serjt. Pryor
Something better this morning, I proceed to finish a rough draugh of
the river & Distances to leave at this place, the wormest day we have
had this year, at 4 oClock the Party returned from the head of the
portage Soon after it began to hail and rain hard and continued for a
fiew minits & Ceased for an hour and began to rain again with a heavy
wind from the N W. I refresh the men with a drink of grog The river
beginning to rise a little the water is Coloured a redish brown, the
Small Streams, discharges in great torrents, and partake of the Choler
of the earth over which it passes-a great part of which is light & of a
redish brown. Several Buffalow pass drowned & in passing over the falls
Cloudy all night, Cold
[Lewis, June 28, 1805]
Friday June 28th 1805.
Set Drewyer to shaving the Elk skins, Fields to make the cross stays
for the boat, Frazier and Whitehouse continue their operation with the
skins, Shields and Gass finish the horizontal bars of the sections;
after which I sent them in surch of willow bark, a sufficient supply of
which they now obtained to bind the boat. expecting the party this
evening I prepared a supper for them but they did not arrive. not
having quite Elk skins enough I employed three buffaloe hides to cover
one section. not being able to shave these skins I had them singed
pretty closely with a blazeing torch; I think they will answer
tolerable well. The White bear have become so troublesome to us that I
do not think it prudent to send one man alone on an errand of any kind,
particularly where he has to pass through the brush. we have seen two
of them on the large Island opposite to us today but are so much
engaged that we could not spare the time to hunt them but will make a
frolick of it when the party return and drive them from these islands.
they come close arround our camp every night but have never yet
ventured to attack us and our dog gives us timely notice of their
visits, he keeps constantly padroling all night. I have made the men
sleep with their arms by them as usual for fear of accedents. the river
is now about nine inches higher than it was on my arrival. lower Camp.
early this morning Capt. C. dispatched the remaining canoe with some
baggage to the top of the plain above Portage creek three miles in
advance; some others he employed in carrying the articles to the cash
and depositing them and others to mend the carriages which wer somewhat
out of repair. this being accomplished he loaded the two carriages with
the remaining baggage and set out with all the party and proceeded on
with much difficulty to the canoe in the plain. portage creek had
arisen considerably and the water was of crimson colour and illy
tasted. on his arrival at the canoe he found there was more baggage
than he could possibly take at one load on the two sets of trucks and
therefore left some barrels of pork & flour and a few heavy boxes of
amunition which could not well be injured, and proceeded with the canoe
& one set of trucks loaded with baggage to willow run where he encamped
for the night, and killed two buffaloe to subsist the party. soon after
his arrival at willow run he experienced a hard shower of rain which
was succeeded by a violent wind from the S. W. off the snowy mountains,
accompanyed with rain; the party being cold and wet, he administered
the consolation of a dram to each.
[Clark, June 28, 1805]
June 28th Friday 1805
a fair morning wind from the South I dispatch the remaining Canoe with
baggage in her to the top of the Hill three miles, imploy Some hands in
Carrying those things we intend to deposit to the Carsh or hole, Some
to repareing one of the trucks &c. &c. the water is riseing and of a
redish brown Cholour after Covering the Carshe & loading the two
Carrges with the remaining part of our Baggage we all Set out passed
the Creek which had rose a little and the water nearly red, and bad
tasted, we assended the hill to the place the Canoe lay with great
labour, at the Canoe at which place we left Some boxes & Kegs of Pork &
flour for another Load, and proceeded on with the Canoe & what baggage
we could draw on the wheels to willow run 6 miles where we Camped, this
run mearly Some water remaining in holes &c. Soon after we halted we
had a Shower, and at dark we expereinced a most dredfull wind from off
the Snow Mountains to the S. W. accompd. with rain which continued at
intervales all night men wet. I refreshed them with a dram. Killed 2
Buffalow. Great nos. about
[Lewis, June 29, 1805]
Saturday June 29th 1805.
This morning we experienced a heavy shower of rain for about an hour
after which it became fair. not having seen the large fountain of which
Capt. Clark spoke I determined to visit it today as I could better
spare this day from my attention to the boat than probably any other
when the work would be further advanced; accordingly after seting the
hands at their several employments I took Drewyer and seet out for the
fountain and passed through a level beautiful plain for about Six miles
when I reached the brake of the river hills here we were overtaken by a
violent gust of wind and rain from the S. W. attended with thunder and
Litning. I expected a hail storm probably from this cloud and therefore
took refuge in a little gully wher there were some broad stones with
which I purposed protecting my head if we should have a repetition of
the seene of the 27th but fortunately we had but little hail and that
not large; I sat very composedly for about an hour without sheter and
took a copious drenching of rain; after the shower was over I continued
my rout to the fountain which I found much as Capt. C; had discribed &
think it may well be retained on the list of prodegies of this
neighbourhood towards which, nature seems to have dealt with a liberal
hand, for I have scarcely experienced a day since my first arrival in
this quarter without experiencing some novel occurrence among the party
or witnessing the appearance of some uncommon object. I think this
fountain the largest I ever beheld, and the hadsome cascade which it
affords over some steep and irregular rocks in it's passage to the
river adds not a little to it's beauty. it is about 25 yds. from the
river, situated in a pretty little level plain, and has a suddon decent
of about 6 feet in one part of it's course. the water of this fountain
is extreemly tranparent and cold; nor is it impregnated with lime or
any other extranious matter which I can discover, but is very pure and
pleasent. it's waters marke their passage as Capt. Clark observes for a
considerable distance down the Missouri notwithstanding it's rapidity
and force. the water of the fountain boil up with such force near it's
center that it's surface in that part seems even higher than the
surrounding earth which is a firm handsom terf of fine green grass.
after amusing myself about 20 minutes in examining the fountain I found
myself so chilled with my wet cloaths that I determined to return and
accordingly set out; on our way to camp we found a buffaloe dead which
we had shot as we came out and took a parsel of the meat to camp it was
in very good order; the hump and tongue of a fat buffaloe I esteem
great delicasies. on my arrival at camp I was astonished not to find
the party yet arrived, but then concluded that probably the state of
the praries had detained them, as in the wet state in which they are at
present the mud sticks to the wheels is such manner that they are
obliged to halt frequently and clense them. Transaction and
occurrencies which took place with Capt. Clark and party today.
Shortly after the rain which fell early this morning he found it
imposseble from the state of the plains for the party to reach the
upper extremity of the portage with their present load, and therefore
sent back almost all of the party to bring the baggage which had been
left behind yesterday. he determined himself to pass by the way of the
river to camp in order to supply the deficiency of some notes and
remarks which he had made as he first ascended the river but which he
had unfortunately lost. accordingly he left one man at Willow run to
guard the baggage and took with him his black man York, Sharbono and
his indian woman also accompanyed Capt. C. on his arrival at the falls
he perceived a very black cloud rising in the West which threatened
immediate rain; he looked about for a shelter but could find none
without being in great danger of being blown into the river should the
wind prove as violent as it sometimes is on those occasions in these
plains; at length about a 1/4 of a mile above the falls he discovered a
deep rivene where there were some shelving rocks under which he took
shelter near the river with Sharbono and the Indian woman; laying their
guns compass &c. under a shelving rock on the upper side of the rivene
where they were perfectly secure from the rain. the first shower was
moderate accompanyed by a violent rain the effects of which they did
but little feel; soon after a most violent torrent of rain decended
accompanyed with hail; the rain appeared to decend in a body and
instantly collected in the rivene and came down in a roling torrent
with irrisistable force driving rocks mud and everything before it
which opposed it's passage, Capt. C. fortunately discovered it a moment
before it reached them and seizing his gun and shot pouch with his left
hand with the right he assisted himself up the steep bluff shoving
occasionaly the Indian woman before him who had her child in her arms;
Sharbono had the woman by the hand indeavouring to pull her up the hill
but was so much frightened that he remained frequently motionless and
but for Capt. C. both himself and his woman and child must have
perished. so suddon was the rise of the water that before Capt C could
reach his gun and begin to ascend the bank it was up to his waist and
wet his watch; and he could scarcely ascend faster than it arrose till
it had obtained the debth of 15 feet with a current tremendious to
behold. one moment longer & it would have swept them into the river
just above the great cataract of 87 feet where they must have
inevitably perished. Sarbono lost his gun shot pouch, horn, tomahawk,
and my wiping rod; Capt. Clark his Umbrella and compas or
circumferenter. they fortunately arrived on the plain safe, where they
found the black man, York, in surch of them; york had seperated from
them a little while before the storm, in pursuit of some buffaloe and
had not seen them enter the rivene; when this gust came on he returned
in surch of them & not being able to find them for some time was much
allarmed. the bier in which the woman carrys her child and all it's
cloaths wer swept away as they lay at her feet she having time only to
grasp her child; the infant was therefore very cold and the woman also
who had just recovered from a severe indisposition was also wet and
cold, Capt C. therefore relinquished his intended rout and returned to
the camp at willow run in order also to obtain dry cloathes for himself
and directed them to follow him. on Capt. Clark's arrival at camp he
found that the party dispatched for the baggage had returned in great
confusion and consternation leaving their loads in the plains; the men
who were all nearly naked and no covering on the head were sorely
mawled with the hail which was so large and driven with such force by
the wind that it nocked many of them (town and one particulary as many
as three times most of them were bleeding freely and complained of
being much bruised. willow run raised about 6 feet with this rain and
the plains were so wet they could do nothing more this evening. Capt.
C. gave the party a dram to console them in some measure for their
general defeat.
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