Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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[Lewis, June 19, 1805]
Wednesday June 19th 1805.
This morning I sent over several men for the meat which was killed
yesterday, a few hours after they returned with it, the wolves had not
discovered it. I also dispatched George Drewyer Reubin Fields and
George Shannon on the North side of the Missouri with orders to proceed
to the entrance of Medecine river and indeavour to kill some Elk in
that neigh-bourhood. as there is more timber on that river than the
Missouri I expect that the Elk are more plenty. The cash completed
today. The wind blew violently the greater part of the day. the Indian
woman was much better this morning she walked out and gathered a
considerable quantity of the white apples of which she eat so heartily
in their raw state, together with a considerable quantity of dryed fish
without my knowledge that she complained very much and her fever again
returned. I rebuked Sharbono severely for suffering her to indulge
herself with such food he being privy to it and having been previously
told what she must only eat. I now gave her broken dozes of diluted
nitre untill it produced perspiration and at 10 P.M. 30 drops of
laudnum which gave her a tolerable nights rest. I amused myself in
fishing several hours today and caught a number of both species of the
white fish, but no trout nor Cat. I employed the men in making up our
baggage in proper packages for transportation; and waxed the stoppers
of my powder canesters anew. had the frame of my Iron boat clensed of
rust and well greased. in the evening the men mended their mockersons
and preparedthemselves for the portage. After dark my dog barked very
much and seemed extreemly uneasy which was unusual with him; I ordered
the sergt. of the guard to reconniter with two men, thinking it
possible that some Indians might be about to pay us a visit, or perhaps
a white bear; he returned soon after & reported that he believed the
dog had been baying a buffaloe bull which had attempted to swim the
river just above our camp but had been beten down by the stream landed
a little below our camp on the same side & run off.
[Clark, June 19, 1805]
June 19th Wednesday 1805
We went on the Island to hunt the White bear this morning but Could not
find him, after plotting my Courses &c. I deturmined to dry the meat we
killed and leave here, and proceed up the river as far as it bent to
the S. E. and examine a Small Creek above our Camp, I Set out and found
the Creek only Contained back water for 1 mile up, ascend near the
Missouri 3 miles to the bend, from which place it turnd. Westerly, from
this bend I with 2 men went forward towards the Camp of the party to
examine the best ground for the portage, the little Creek has verry
extencive bottoms which Spread out into a varriety of leavl rich
bottoms quite to the mountains to the East, between those bottoms is
hills low and Stoney on this declivity where it is Steep. I returned to
Camp late and deturmined that the best nearest and most eassy rout
would be from the lower part of the 3rd or white bear Island, the wind
all this day blew violently hard from the S W. off the Snowey
mountains, Cool, in my last rout I lost a part of my notes which could
not be found as the wind must have blown them to a great distance.
Summer duck Setting great numbers of buffalow all about our Camp
[Lewis, June 20, 1805]
Thursday June 20th 1805.
This morning we had but little to do; waiting the return of Capt.
Clark; I am apprehensive from his stay that the portage is longer than
we had calculated on. I sent out 4 hunters this morning on the opposite
side of the river to kill buffaloe; the country being more broken on
that side and cut with ravenes they can get within shoot of the
buffaloe with more ease and certainty than on this side of the river.
my object is if possible while we have now but little to do, to lay in
a large stock of dryed meat at this end of the portage to subsist the
party while engaged in the transportation of our baggage &c, to the
end, that they may not be taken from this duty when once commenced in
order to surch for the necessary subsistence. The Indian woman is qute
free from pain and fever this morning and appears to be in a fair way
for recovery, she has been walking about and fishing. In the evening 2
of the hunters returned and informed me that they had killed eleven
buffaloe eight of which were in very fine order, I sent off all hands
immediately to bring in the meat they soon returned with about half of
the best meat leaving three men to remain all night in order to secure
the ballance. the bufhaloe are in inimence numbers, they have been
constantly coming down in large herds to water opposite to us for some
hours sometimes two or three herds wartering at the same instant and
scarcely disappear before others supply their places. they appear to
make great use of the mineral water, whether this be owing to it's
being more convenient to them than the river or that they actually
prefer it I am at a loss to determine for they do not use it
invaryably, but sometimes pass at no great distance from it and water
at the river. brackish water or that of a dark colour impregnated with
mineral salts such as I have frequenly mentioned on the Missouri is
found in small quantities in some of the steep ravenes on the N. side
of the river opposite to us and the falls. Capt. Clark and party
returned late this evening when he gave me the following relation of
his rout and the occurrences which had taken place with them since
their departure.
Capt. Clark now furnished me with the field notes of the survey which
he had made of the Missouri and it's Cataracts cascades &c. from the
entrance of portage Creek to the South Eastwardly bend of the Missouri
above the White bear Islands, which are as follow.
[Clark, June 20, 1805]
June 20th Thursday 1805
a Cloudy morning, a hard wind all night and this morning, I direct
Stakes to be Cut to Stick up in the prarie to Show the way for the
party to transport the baggage &c. &c. we Set out early on the portage,
Soon after we Set out it began to rain and continued a Short time we
proceeded on thro a tolerable leavel plain, and found the hollow of a
Deep rivein to obstruct our rout as it Could not be passed with Canos &
baggage for Some distance above the place we Struck it I examined it
for Some time and finding it late deturmined to Strike the river & take
its Course & distance to Camp which I accordingly did the wind hard
from the S. W. a fair after noon, the river on both Sides Cut with
raveins Some of which is passes thro Steep Clifts into the river, the
Countrey above the falls & up the Medison river is leavel, with low
banks, a chain of mountains to the west Some part of which particuler
those to the N W. & S W are Covered with Snow and appear verry high- I
Saw a rattle Snake in an open plain 2 miles from any Creek or wood.
When I arrived at Camp found all well with great quantites of meet, the
Canoes Capt. Lewis had Carried up the Creek 1 mile to a good place to
assend the band & taken up. Not haveing Seen the Snake Indians or
knowing in fact whither to Calculate on their friendship or hostillity,
we have Conceived our party Sufficiently Small, and therefore have
Concluded not to dispatch a Canoe with a part of our men to St. Louis
as we have intended early in the Spring. we fear also that Such a
measure might also discourage those who would in Such Case remain, and
migh possibly hazard the fate of the expedition. we have never hinted
to any one of the party that we had Such a Scheem in contemplation, and
all appear perfectly to have made up their minds, to Succeed in the
expedition or perish in the attempt. we all believe that we are about
to enter on the most perilous and dificuelt part of our Voyage, yet I
See no one repineing; all appear ready to meet those dificuelties which
await us with resolution and becomeing fortitude.
We had a heavy dew this morning. the Clouds near those mountains rise
Suddonly and discharge their Contents partially on the neighbouring
Plains; the Same Cloud discharge hail alone in one part, hail and rain
in another and rain only in a third all within the Space of a fiew
Miles; and on the Mountains to the South & S. E. of us Sometimes Snow.
at present there is no Snow on those mountains; that which covered them
a fiew days ago has all disappeared. the Mountains to the N. W. and
West of us are Still entirely Covered are white and glitter with the
reflection of the Sun.
I do not believe that the Clouds that pervale at this Season of the
year reach the Summits of those lofty mountains; and if they do the
probability is that they deposit Snow only for there has been no
proceptable diminution of the Snow which they Contain Since we first
Saw them. I have thought it probable that these mountains might have
derived their appellation of Shineing Mountains, from their glittering
appearance when the Sun Shines in certain directions on the Snow which
Cover them.
Dureing the time of my being on the Plains and above the falls I as
also all my party repeatedly heard a nois which proceeded from a
Direction a little to the N. of West, as loud and resembling precisely
the discharge of a piece of ordinance of 6 pounds at the distance of 5
or six miles. I was informed of it Several times by the men J. Fields
particularly before I paid any attention to it, thinking it was thunder
most probably which they had mistaken. at length walking in the plains
yesterday near the most extreem S. E. bend of the River above the falls
I heard this nois very distinctly, it was perfectly calm clear and not
a Cloud to be Seen, I halted and listened attentively about two hour
dureing which time I heard two other discharges, and took the direction
of the Sound with my pocket Compass which was as nearly West from me as
I could estimate from the Sound. I have no doubt but if I had leasure I
could find from whence it issued. I have thought it probable that it
might be caused by running water in Some of the caverns of those emence
mountains, on the principal of the blowing caverns; but in Such case
the Sounds would be periodical and regular, which is not the Case with
this, being Sometimes heard once only and at other times Several
discharges in quick Succession. it is heard also at different times of
the day and night. I am at a great loss to account for this Phenomenon.
I well recollect hereing the Minitarees Say that those Rocky Mountains
make a great noise, but they could not tell me the Cause, neither Could
they inform me of any remarkable substance or situation in these
mountains which would autherise a conjecture of a probable cause of
this noise-. it is probable that the large river just above those Great
falls which heads in the detection of the noise has taken it's name
Medicine River from this unaccountable rumbling Sound, which like all
unacountable thing with the Indians of the Missouri is Called Medicine.
The Ricaras inform us of the black mountains making a Simalar noise &c.
&c. and maney other wonderfull tales of those Rocky mountains and those
great falls.
[Lewis, June 21, 1805]
Friday June 21st 1805.
This morning I employed the greater part of the men in transporting a
part of the bagage over portage creek to the top of the high plain
about three miles in advance on the portage. I also had one canoe
carryed on truck wheles to the same place and put the baggage in it, in
order to make an early start in the morning, as the rout of our portage
is not yet entirely settled, and it would be inconvenient to remain in
the open plain all night at a distance from water, which would probably
be the case if we did not set out early as the latter part of the rout
is destitute of water for about 8 miles- having determined to go to the
upper part of the portage tomorrow; in order to prepare my boat and
receive and take care of the stores as they were transported, I caused
the Iron frame of the boat and the necessary tools my private baggage
and Instruments to be taken as a part of this load, also the baggage of
Joseph Fields, Sergt. Gass and John sheilds, whom I had scelected to
assist me in constructing the leather boat. Three men were employed
today in shaving the Elk skins which had ben collected for the boat.
the ballance of the party were employed in cuting the meat we had
killed yesterday into thin Retches and drying it, and in bring in the
ballance of what had been left over the river with three men last
evening. I readily preceive several difficulties in preparing the
leather boat which are the want of convenient and proper timber; bark,
skins, and above all that of pitch to pay her seams, a deficiency that
I really know not how to surmount unless it be by means of tallow and
pounded charcoal which mixture has answered a very good purpose on our
wooden canoes heretofore. I have seen for the first time on the
Missouri at these falls, a species of fishing ducks with white wings,
brown and white body and the head and part of the neck adjoining of a
brick red, and the beak narrow; which I take to be the same common to
James river, the Potomac and Susquehanna. immence numbers of buffaloe
comeing to water at the river as usual. the men who remained over the
river last night killed several mule deer, and Willard who was with me
killed a young Elk. The wind blew violently all day. The growth of the
neighbourhood what little there is consists of the broad and narrow
leafed cottonwood, box alder, the large or sweet willow, the narrow and
broad leafed willow. the sweet willow has not been common to the
Missouri below this or the entrance of Maria's river; here attains to
the same size and in appearance much the same as in the Atlantic
States. the undergrowth consists of rosebushes, goosberry and current
bushes, honeysuckle small, and the red wood, the inner bark of which
the engages are fond of smoking mixed with tobacco.
[Clark, June 21, 1805]
June 21st Friday 1805
a fine morning wind from the S W. off the mountains and hard, Capt
Lewis with the men except a few take a part of the baggage & a Canoe up
the Hill 3 mile in advance, Several men employed in Shaveing & Graneing
Elk hides for the Iron boat as it is called- 3 men were Sent up the
Medison river yesterday to kill Elk for the Skins for the boat, I fear
that we Shall be put to Some dificuelty in precureing Elk Skins
Sufficent-, Cloudy afternoon, we dry meat for the men to eat on their
return from the upper part of the portage Capt Lewis determine to
proceed to the upper part of the Portage tomorrow & with 3 men proced
to fix the Iron boat with Skins &c. &c.
[Lewis, June 22, 1805]
Saturday June 22cd 1805.
This morning early Capt Clark and myself with all the party except
Sergt. Ordway Sharbono, Goodrich, york and the Indian woman, set out to
pass the portage with the canoe and baggage to the Whitebear Islands,
where we intend that this portage shall end. Capt. Clarke piloted us
through the plains. about noon we reached a little stream about 8 miles
on the portage where we halted and dined; we were obliged here to renew
both axeltrees and the tongues and howns of one set of wheels which
took us no more than 2 hours. these parts of our carriage had been made
of cottonwood and one axetree of an old mast, all of which proved
deficient and had broken down several times before we reached this
place we have now renewed them with the sweet willow and hope that they
will answer better. after dark we had reached within half a mile of our
intended camp when the tongues gave way and we were obliged to leave
the canoe, each man took as much of the baggage as he could carry on
his back and proceeded to the river where we formed our encampment much
fortiegued. the prickly pears were extreemly troublesome to us sticking
our feet through our mockersons. Saw a great number of buffaloe in the
plains, also immence quantities of little birds and the large brown
curloo; the latter is now seting; it lays it's eggs, which are of a
pale blue with black specks, on the ground without any preperation of a
nest. there is a kind of larke here that much resembles the bird called
the oldfield lark with a yellow brest and a black spot on the croop;
tho this differs from ours in the form of the tail which is pointed
being formed of feathers of unequal length; the beak is somewhat longer
and more curved and the note differs considerably; however in size,
action, and colours there is no perceptable difference; or at least
none that strikes my eye. after reaching our camp we kindled our fires
and examined the meat which Capt. Clark had left, but found only a
small proportion of it, the wolves had taken the greater part. we eat
our suppers and soon retired to rest.
[Clark, June 22, 1805]
June 22nd Satturday 1805
a fine morning, Capt Lewis my Self and all the party except a Sergeant
Ordway Guterich and the Interpreter and his wife Sar car gah we a (who
are left at Camp to take Care of the baggage left) across the portage
with one Canoe on truck wheels and loaded with a part of our Baggage I
piloted thro the plains to the Camp I made at which place I intended
the portage to end which is 3 miles above the Medesin River we had
great dificuelty in getting on as the axeltree broke Several times, and
the Cuppling tongus of the wheels which was of Cotton & willow, the
only wood except Boxelder & ____ that grow in this quarter, we got
within half a mile of our intended Camp much fatigued at dark, our
tongus broke & we took a load to the river on the mens back, where we
found a number of wolves which had distroyed a great part of our meat
which I had left at that place when I was up day before yesterday we
Soon went to Sleep & Slept Sound wind from the ____ we deturmine to
employ every man Cooks & all on the portage after to day
Canoe and baggage brought up, after which we breakfasted and nearly
consumed the meat which he had left here. he now set out on his return
with the party. I employed the three men with me in the forenoon
clearing away the brush and forming our camp, and puting the frame of
the boat together. this being done I sent Shields and Gass to look out
for the necessary timber, and with J. Fields decended the river in the
canoe to the mouth of Medicine river in surch of the hunters whom I had
dispatched thither on the 19th inst. and from whom we had not heard a
sentence. I entered the mouth of medicine river and ascended it about
half a mile when we landed and walked up the Stard. side. frequently
hooping as we went on in order to find the hunters; at length after
ascending the river about five miles we found Shannon who had passed
the Medecine river & fixed his camp on the Lard. side, where he had
killed seven deer and several buffaloe and dryed about 600 lbs. of
buffaloe meat; but had killed no Elk. Shannon could give me no further
account of R. Fields and Drewyer than that he had left them about noon
on the 19th at the great falls and had come on the mouth of Medicine
river to hunt Elk as he had been directed, and never had seen them
since. the evening being now far spent I thought it better to pass the
Medicine river and remain all night at Shannon's camp; I passed the
river on a raft which we soon constructed for the purpose. the river is
here about 80 yds. wide, is deep and but a moderate current. the banks
low as those of the Missouri above the falls yet never appear to
overflow. as it will give a better view of the transactions of the
party, I shall on each day give the occurrences of both camps during
our seperation as I afterwards learnt those of the lower camp from
Capt. Clark. on his return today he cut of several angles of the rout
by which we came yesterday, shortened the portage considerably,
measured it and set up stakes throughout as guides to marke the rout.
he returned this evening to the lower camp in sufficient time to take
up two of the canoes from portage creek to the top of the plain about a
mile in advance. this evening the men repaired their mockersons, and
put on double souls to protect their feet from the prickley pears.
during the late rains the buffaloe have troden up the praire very much,
which having now become dry the sharp points of earth as hard as frozen
ground stand up in such abundance that there is no avoiding them. this
is particulary severe on the feet of the men who have not only their
own wight to bear in treading on those hacklelike points but have also
the addition of the burthen which they draw and which in fact is as
much as they can possibly move with. they are obliged to halt and rest
frequently for a few minutes, at every halt these poor fellows tumble
down and are so much fortiegued that many of them are asleep in an
instant; in short their fatiegues are incredible; some are limping from
the soreness of their feet, others faint and unable to stand for a few
minutes, with heat and fatiegue, yet no one complains, all go with
cheerfullness. in evening Reubin Fields returned to the lower camp and
informed Capt. Clark of the absence of Shannon, with rispect to whome
they were extreemly uneasy. Fields and Drewyer had killed several
buffaloe at the bend of the missouri above the falls and had dryed a
considerable quantity of meat; they had also killed several deer but no
Elk.
[Clark, June 23, 1805]
June 23rd Sunday 1805
a Cloudy morning wind from the S. E, after getting the Canoe to Camp &
the articles left in the plains we eate brackfast of the remaining meat
found in Camp & I with the party the truck wheels & poles to Stick up
in the prarie as a guide, Set out on our return, we proceeded on, &
measured the Way which I Streightened considerably from that I went on
yesterday, and arrived at our lower camp in Suffcent time to take up 2
Canoes on the top of the hill from the Creek, found all Safe at Camp
the men mended their mockersons with double Soles to Save their feet
from the prickley pear, (which abounds in the Praries,) and the hard
ground which in Some & maney places So hard as to hurt the feet verry
much, the emence number of Buffalow after the last rain has trod the
flat places in Such a manner as to leave it uneaven, and that has tried
and is wors than frozen ground, added to those obstructions, the men
has to haul with all their Strength wate & art, maney times every man
all catching the grass & knobes & Stones with their hands to give them
more force in drawing on the Canoes & Loads, and notwithstanding the
Coolness of the air in high presperation and every halt, those not
employed in reparing the Couse; are asleep in a moment, maney limping
from the Soreness of their feet Some become fant for a fiew moments,
but no man Complains all go Chearfully on- to State the fatigues of
this party would take up more of the journal than other notes which I
find Scercely time to Set down. I had the best rout Staked out and
measured which is 17 miles 3/4 to the river & 1/2 a mile up i.e 181/4
miles portage- from the lower rapid to the 1st Creek is 286 poles, to a
Deep run of water, Called Willow Run is 6 miles thence to the river 3
miles above Medison Riv at 3 Island Called White Bear Islands is 11
miles all prarie without wood or water except at the Creek & run which
afford a plenty of fine water and a little wood the plain is tolerably
leavel except at the river a Small assent & passing a low hill from the
Creek a rough & Steep assent for about 1/4 of a mile and Several
Gullies & a gradual hill for 11/2 miles the heads of Several gullies
which have Short assents & the willow run of a Steep hill on this run
grows Purple & red Currents. the red is now ripe the Purple full grown,
an emence number of Prarie birds now Setting of two kinds one larger
than a Sparrow dark yellow the Center feathers of its tail yellow & the
out Sides black Some Streeks about its neck, the other about the Same
Size White tail
[Lewis, June 24, 1805]
Monday June 24th 1805.
Supposing that Drewyer and R. Fields might possibly be still higher up
medicine river, I dispatched J. Fields up the river with orders to
proceede about four miles and then return whether he found them or not
and join Shannon at this camp. I set out early and walked down the
South West side of the river and sent Shannon down the opposite side to
bring the canoe over to me and put me across the Missouri; having
landed on the Lard. side of the Missouri I sent Shannon back with the
canoe to ascend the Medicine river as far as his camp to meet J. Fields
and bring the dryed meat at that place to the camp at the white bear
Islands which accomplished and arrived with Fields this evening. the
party also arrived this evening with two canoes from the lower camp.
they were wet and fatiegued, gave them a dram. R. Fields came with them
and gave me an account of his & Drewyer's hunt, and informed me that
Drewyer was still at their camp with the meat they had dryed. the iron
frame of my boat is 36 feet long 41/2 F. in the beam and 26 Inches in
the hole.
This morning early Capt. Clark had the remaining canoe drawn out of the
water; and divided the remainder of our baggage into three parcels, one
of which he sent today by the party with two canoes. The Indian woman
is now perfectly recovered. Capt. C. came a few miles this morning to
see the party under way and returned. on my arrival at the upper camp
this morning, I found that Sergt. Gass and Shields had made but slow
progress in collecting timber for the boat; they complained of great
difficulty in geting streight or even tolerably streight sticks of 4/2
feet long. we were obliged to make use of the willow and box alder, the
cottonwood being too soft and brittle. I kept one of them collecting
timber while the other shaved and fitted them. I have found some pine
logs among the drift wood near this place, from which, I hope to obtain
as much pitch as will answer to pay the seams of the boat. I directed
Fraizer to remain in order to sew the hides together, and form the
covering for the boat.
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