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Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark

M >> Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark

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having examined Medecine river I now determined to return, having by my
estimate about 12 miles to walk. I looked at my watch and found it was
half after six P.M.- in returning through the level bottom of Medecine
river and about 200 yards distant from the Missouri, my direction led
me directly to an anamal that I at first supposed was a wolf; but on
nearer approach or about sixty paces distant I discovered that it was
not, it's colour was a brownish yellow; it was standing near it's
burrow, and when I approached it thus nearly, it couched itself down
like a cat looking immediately at me as if it designed to spring on me.
I took aim at it and fired, it instantly disappeared in it's burrow; I
loaded my gun and exmined the place which was dusty and saw the track
from which I am still further convinced that it was of the tiger kind.
whether I struck it or not I could not determine, but I am almost
confident that I did; my gun is true and I had a steady rest by means
of my espontoon, which I have found very serviceable to me in this way
in the open plains. It now seemed to me that all the beasts of the
neighbourhood had made a league to distroy me, or that some fortune was
disposed to amuse herself at my expence, for I had not proceded more
than three hundred yards from the burrow of this tyger cat, before
three bull buffaloe, which wer feeding with a large herd about half a
mile from me on my left, seperated from the herd and ran full speed
towards me, I thought at least to give them some amusement and altered
my direction to meet them; when they arrived within a hundred yards
they mad a halt, took a good view of me and retreated with
precipitation. I then continued my rout homewards passed the buffaloe
which I had killed, but did not think it prudent to remain all night at
this place which really from the succession of curious adventures wore
the impression on my mind of inchantment; at sometimes for a moment I
thought it might be a dream, but the prickley pears which pierced my
feet very severely once in a while, particularly after it grew dark,
convinced me that I was really awake, and that it was necessary to make
the best of my way to camp. it was sometime after dark before I
returned to the party; I found them extremely uneasy for my safety;
they had formed a thousand conjectures, all of which equally forboding
my death, which they had so far settled among them, that they had
already agreed on the rout which each should take in the morning to
surch for me. I felt myself much fortiegued, but eat a hearty supper
and took a good night's rest.- the weather being warm I had left my
leather over shirt and had woarn only a yellow flannin one.

[Clark, June 14, 1805]
June 14th Friday 1805
a fine morning, the Indian woman complaining all night & excessively
bad this morning- her case is Somewhat dangerous- two men with the
Tooth ake 2 with Turners, & one man with a Tumor & Slight fever passed
the Camp Capt. Lewis made the 1st night at which place he had left part
of two bear their skins &c three men with Turners went on shore and
Staycd out all night one of them killed 2 buffalow, a part of which we
made use of for brackfast, the Current excesevely rapid more So as we
assend we find great difficuelty in getting the Perogue & Canoes up in
Safety, Canoes take in water frequently, at 4 oClock this evening Jo.
Fields returned from Capt. Lewis with a letter for me, Capt Lewis dates
his letter from the Great falls of the Missouri, which Fields informs
me is about 20 miles in advance & about 10 miles above the place I left
the river the time I was up last week Capt. L. informs that those
falls; in part answer the discription given of them by the Indians,
much higher the Eagles nest which they describe is there, from those
Signs he is Convinced of this being the river the Indians call the
Missouri, he intends examineing the river above untill my arrival at a
point from which we can make a portage, which he is apprehensive will
be at least 5 miles & both above & below there is Several Small
pitches, & Swift troubled water we made only 10 miles to day and Camped
on the Lard Side, much hard Slate in the Clifts & but a Small quantity
of timber.

[Lewis, June 15, 1805]
Saturday June 15th 1805.
This morning the men again were sent to bring in some more meat which
Drewyer had killed yesterday, and continued the opperation of drying
it. I amused myself in fishing, and sleeping away the fortiegues of
yesterday. I caught a number of very fine trout which I made Goodrich
dry; goodrich also caught about two douzen and several small cat of a
yellow colour which would weigh about 4 lbs. the tails was seperated
with a deep angular nitch like that of the white cat of the missouri
from which indeed they differed only in colour. when I awoke from my
sleep today I found a large rattlesnake coiled on the leaning trunk of
a tree under the shade of which I had been lying at the distance of
about ten feet from him. I killed the snake and found that he had 176
scuta on the abdomen and i'7 half formed scuta on the tale; it was of
the same kinde which I had frequently seen before; they do not differ
in their colours from the rattle snake common to the middle attlantic
states, but considerably in the form and figures of those colours. This
evening after dark Joseph Fields returned and informed me that Capt
Clark had arrived with the party at the foot of a rappid about 5 miles
below which he did not think proper to ascend and would wait my arrival
there. I had discovered from my journey yesterday that a portage on
this side of the river will be attended by much difficulty in
consequence of several deep ravines which intersect the plains nearly
at right angles with the river to a considerable distance, while the
South side appears to be a delighfull smoth unbroken plain; the
bearings of the river also make it pobable that the portage will be
shorter on that side than on this.- I directed Fields to return early
in the morning to Capt. C. and request him to send up a party of men
for the dryed meat which we had made. I finde a very heavy due on the
grass about my camp every morning which no doubt procedes from the mist
of the falls, as it takes place no where in the plains nor on the river
except here.

[Clark, June 15, 1805]
June the 15th Satturday 1805
a fair morning and worm, we Set out at the usial time and proceeded on
with great dificuelty as the river is more rapid we can hear the falls
this morning verry distinctly- our Indian woman Sick &low Spirited I
gave her the bark & apply it exteranaly to her region which revived her
much. the curt. excessively rapid and dificuelt to assend great numbers
of dangerous places, and the fatigue which we have to encounter is
incretiatable the men in the water from morning untill night hauling
the Cord & boats walking on Sharp rocks and round Sliperery Stones
which alternately cut their feet & throw them down, not with Standing
all this dificuelty they go with great chearfulness, aded to those
dificuelties the rattle Snakes inumerable & require great caution to
prevent being bitten.- we passed a Small river on the Lard Side about
30 yards wide verry rapid which heads in the mountains to the S. E. I
Sent up this river 5 miles, it has Some timber in its bottoms and a
fall of 15 feet at one place, above this river the bluffs are of red
earth mixed with Stratums of black Stone, below this little river, we
pass a white clay which mixes with water like flour in every respect,
the Indian woman much wors this evening, She will not take any medison,
her husband petetions to return &c., river more rapid late in the
evening we arrived at a rapid which appeared So bad that I did not
think it prudent to attempt passing of it this evening as it was now
late, we Saw great numbers of Gees Ducks, Crows Blackbirds &c Geese &
Ducks with their young. after Landing I detached Joseph Fields to Capt.
Lewis to let him know where I was &c river rises a little this evening
we could not get a Sufficency of wood for our use

[Lewis, June 16, 1805]
Sunday June 16th 1805
J. Fields set out early on his return to the lower camp, at noon the
men arrived and shortly after I set out with them to rejoin the party.
we took with us the dryed meat consisting of about 600 lbs. and several
douzen of dryed trout. about 2 P.M. I reached the camp found the Indian
woman extreemly ill and much reduced by her indisposition. this gave me
some concern as well for the poor object herself, then with a young
child in her arms, as from the consideration of her being our only
dependence for a friendly negociation with the Snake Indians on whom we
depend for horses to assist us in our portage from the Missouri to the
columbia River. I now informed Capt. C. of my discoveries with rispect
to the most proper side for our portage, and of it's great length,
which I could not estimate at less than 16 miles. Capt. C. had already
sent two men this morning to examine the country on the S. side of the
river; he now passed over with the party to that side and fixed a camp
about a mile blow the entrance of a Creek where there was a sufficient
quantity of wood for fuel, an article which can be obtained but in few
places in this neighbourhood. after discharging the loads four of the
canoes were sent back to me, which by means of strong ropes we hawled
above the rappid and passed over to the south side from whence the
water not being rappid we can readily convey them into the creek by
means of which we hope to get them on the high plain with more ease.
one of the small canoes was left below this rappid in order to pass and
repass the river for the purpose of hunting as well as to procure the
water of the Sulpher spring, the virtues of which I now resolved to try
on the Indian woman. this spring is situated about 200 yards from the
Missouri on the N. E. side nearly opposite to the entrance of a large
creek; it discharges itself into the Missouri over a precepice of rock
about 25 feet, forming a pretty little ____ the water is as transparent
as possible strongly impregnated with sulpher, and I suspect Iron also,
as the colour of the hills and bluffs in the neighbourhood indicate the
existence of that metal. the water to all appearance is precisely
similar to that of Bowyer's Sulpher spring in Virginia. Capt. Clark
determined to set out in the morning to examine and survey the portage,
and discover the best rout. as the distance was too great to think of
transporting the canoes and baggage on the men's shoulders, we
scelected six men, and ordered them to look out some timber this
evening, and early in the morning to set about making a parsel of truck
wheels in order to convey our canoes and baggage over the portage. we
determined to leave the white perogue at this place, and substitute the
Iron boat, and also to make a further deposit of a part of our stores.
in the evening the men who had been sent out to examine the country and
made a very unfavourable report. they informed us that the creek just
above us and two deep ravenes still higher up cut the plain between the
river and mountain in such a manner, that in their opinions a portage
for the canoes on this side was impracticable. good or bad we must make
the portage. notwithstanding this report I am still convinced from the
view I had of the country the day before yesterday that a good portage
may be had on this side at least much better than on the other, and
much nearer also. I found that two dozes of barks and opium which I had
given her since my arrival had produced an alteration in her pulse for
the better; they were now much fuller and more regular. I caused her to
drink the mineral water altogether. wen I first came down I found that
her pulse were scarcely perceptible, very quick frequently irregular
and attended with strong nervous symptoms, that of the twitching of the
fingers and leaders of the arm; now the pulse had become regular much
fuller and a gentle perspiration had taken place; the nervous symptoms
have also in a great measure abated, and she feels herself much freeer
from pain. she complains principally of the lower region of the
abdomen, I therefore continued the cataplasms of barks and laudnumn
which had been previously used by my friend Capt Clark. I beleive her
disorder originated principally from an obstruction of the mensis in
consequence of taking could.- I determined to remain at this camp in
order to make some celestial observations, restore the sick woman, and
have all matters in a state of readiness to commence the portage
immediately on the return of Capt. Clark, who now furnished me with the
dayly occurrences which had taken place with himself and party since
our seperation which I here enter in his own words.

[Clark, June 16, 1805]
June 16th of Sunday 1805
Some rain last night a cloudy morning wind hard from the S. W. we Set
out passed the rapid by double manning the Perogue & Canoes and halted
at 1/4 of a mile to examine the rapids above, which I found to be an
Continued Cascade for as far as could be Seen which was about 2 miles,
I walked up on the Lard Side as high as a large Creek, which falls in
on the Lard. Side one mile above & opposit a large Sulpher Spring which
falls over the rocks on the Std. Side the wind rored from the S. W.
hard & Some rain, at about 2 oClock Capt Lewis joined me from the falls
5 miles distant, & infd. that the Lard Side was the best portage I
despatched 2 men this morning on the Lard. Side to examine the
portage.- the Indian woman verry bad, & will take no medisin what ever,
untill her husband finding her out of her Senses, easyly provailed on
her to take medison, if She dies it will be the fault of her husband as
I am now convinced-. we crossed the river after part of the day and
formed a Camp from which we intended to make the first portage, Capt.
Lewis stayed on the Std Side to direct the Canoes over the first riffle
4 of them passed this evening the others unloaded & part of the Perogue
Loading taken out- I deturmined to examine & Survey the Portage find a
leavel rout if possible- The 2 men despatched to examine the Portage
gave an unfavourable account of the Countrey, reporting that the Creek
& 2 deep reveens cut the Prarie in such a manner between the river and
mountain as to render a portage in their oppinion for the Canoes
impossible- we Selected 6 men to make wheels & to draw the Canoes on as
the distance was probably too far for to be caried on the mens Sholders

[Lewis, June 17, 1805]
Monday June 17th 1805.
Capt. Clark set out early this morning with five men to examine the
country and survey the river and portage as had been concerted last
evening. I set six men at work to pepare four sets of truck wheels with
couplings, toungs and bodies, that they might either be used without
the bodies for transporting our canoes, or with them in transporting
our baggage I found that the Elk skins I had prepared for my boat were
insufficient to compleat her, some of them having become dammaged by
the weather and being frequently wet; to make up this deficiency I sent
out two hunters this morning to hunt Elk; the ballance of the party I
employed first in unloading the white perogue, which we intend leaving
at this place, and bring the whole of our baggage together and
arranging it in proper order near our camp. this duty being compleated
I employed them in taking five of the small canoes up the creek which
we now call portage creek about 13/4 miles; here I had them taken out
and lyed in the sun to dry. from this place ther is a gradual ascent to
the top of the high plain to which we can now take them with ease; the
bluffs of this creek below and those of the river above it's entrance
are so steep that it would be almost impracticable to have gotten them
on the plain. we found much difficulty in geting the canoes up this
creek to the distance we were compelled to take them, in consequence of
the rappids and rocks which obstruct the channel of the creek. one of
the canoes overset and was very near injuring 2 men essencially. just
above the canoes the creek has a perpendicular fall of 5 feet and the
cliffts again become very steep and high. we were fortunate enough to
find one cottonwood tree just below the entrance of portage creek that
was large enough to make our carrage wheels about 22 Inches in
diameter; fortunate I say because I do not beleive that we could find
another of the same size perfectly sound within 20 miles of us. the
cottonwood which we are obliged to employ in the other parts of the
work is extreemly illy calculated for it being soft and brittle. we
have made two axeltrees of the mast of the white peroge, which I hope
will answer tolerably well tho it is reather small. The Indian woman
much better today, I have still continued the same course of medecine;
she is free from pain clear of fever, her pulse regular, and eats as
heartily as I am willing to permit her of broiled buffaloe well
seasoned with pepper and salt and rich soope of the same meat; I think
therefore that there is every rational hope of her recovery. saw a vast
number of buffaloe feeding in every direction arround us in the plains,
others coming down in large herds to water at the river; the fragments
of many carcases of these poor anamals daily pass down the river, thus
mangled I pesume in decending those immence cataracts above us. as the
buffaloe generally go in large herds to water and the passages to the
river about the falls are narrow and steep the hinder part of the herd
press those in front out of their debth and the water instatly takes
them over the cataracts where they are instantly crushed to death
without the possibility of escaping. in this manner I have seen ten or
a douzen disappear in a few minutes. their mangled carcases ly along
the shores below the falls in considerable quantities and afford fine
amusement for the bear wolves and birds of prey; this may be one reason
and I think not a bad one either that the bear are so tenatious of
their right of soil in this neighbourhood.

[Clark, June 17, 1805]
June 17th Monday 1805
a fine morning wind as usial Capt. Lewis with the party unloaded the
Perogue & he determined to keep the party employed in getting the
loading to the Creek about 1 mile over a low hill in my absence on the
Portage.

I Set out with 5 men at 8 oClock, and proceeded on up the Creek Some
distance to examine that & if possable assend that Suffcently high,
that a Streight Cours to the mouth of Medison river would head the 2
reveins, the Creek I found Confined rapid and Shallow generalley

Monday 17th of June passed through an open roleing Prarie, So as to
head the two reveins after heading two we Stand our Course So as to
Strike the river below the great pitch on our Course to the river
Crossed a Deep rivein near its mouth with Steep Clifts this rivein had
running water which was very fine, the river at this place is narrow &
Confined in perpindicular clifts of 170 feet from the tops of those
Clifts the Countrey rises with a Steep assent for about 250 feet more
we proceeded up the river passing a Sucession of rapids & Cascades to
the Falls, which we had herd for Several miles makeing a dedly Sound, I
beheld those Cateracts with astonishment the whole of the water of this
great river Confined in a Channel of 280 yards and pitching over a rock
of 97 feet 3/4 of an, from the foot of the falls arrises a Continued
mist which is extended for 150 yds. down & to near the top of the
Clifts on L Sd. the river below is Confined a narrow Chanl. Of 93 yards
haveing a Small bottom of timber on the Stard Side which is definded by
a rock, rangeing Cross wise the river a little below the Shoot, a Short
distance below this Cataract a large rock divides the Stream, I in
assendending the Clifts to take the hith of the fall was near Slipping
into the water, at which place I must have been Sucked under in an
instant, and with deficuelty and great risque I assended again, and
decended the Clift lower down (but few places Can be descended to the
river) and took the hight with as much accuricy as possible with a
Spirit Leavels &c. dined at a fine Spring 200 yards below the pitch
near which place 4 Cotton willow trees grew. on one of them I marked my
name the date, and hight of the falls,- we then proceeded up on the
river passing a Continued Cascade & rapid to a fall of 19 feet at 4
Small Islands, this fall is diaguanally across the river from the Lard
Side, forming an angle of 3/4 of the width from the Lard. from which
Side it pitches for 2/3 of that distance. on the Stard Side is a rapid
decline- below this Shoot a Deep revein falls in which we Camped for
the night which was Cold (The mountains in every derection has Snow on
Them) The plain to our left is leavel we Saw one Bear & inumerable
numbers of Buffalow, I Saw 2 herds of those animals watering
immediately above a considerable rapid, they decended by a narrow pass
to the bottom Small, the rier forced those forwd into the water Some of
which was taken down in an instant, and Seen no more others made Shore
with difficuelty, I beheld 40 or 50 of those Swimming at the Same time
those animals in this way are lost and accounts for the number of
buffalow carcases below the rapids

[Lewis, June 18, 1805]
Tuesday June 18th 1805.
This morning I employed all hands in drawing the perogue on shore in a
thick bunch of willow bushes some little distance below our camp;
fastened her securely, drove out the plugs of the gage holes of her
bottom and covered her with bushes and driftwood to shelter her from
the sun. I now scelected a place for a cash and set tree men at work to
complete it, and employed all others except those about the waggons, in
overhawling airing and repacking our indian goods ammunition, provision
and stores of every discription which required inspection. examined the
frame of my Iron boat and found all the parts complete except one
screw, which the ingenuity of Sheilds can readily replace, a resource
which we have very frequent occasion for. about 12 O'Clk. the hunters
returned; they had killed 10 deer but no Elk. I begin to fear that we
shall have some difficulty in procuring skins for the boat. I wold
prefer those of the Elk because I beleive them more durable and strong
than those of the Buffaloe, and that they will not shrink so much in
drying. we saw a herd of buffaloe come down to water at the sulpher
spring this evening, I dispatched some hunters to kill some of them,
and a man also for a cask of mineral water. the hunters soon killed two
of them in fine order and returned with a good quantity of the flesh,
having left the remainder in a situation that it will not spoil
provided the wolves do not visit it. The waggons are completed this
evening, and appear as if they would answer the purpose very well if
the axetrees prove sufficiently strong. the wind blew violently this
evening, as they frequently do in this open country where there is not
a tree to brake or oppose their force. The Indian woman is recovering
fast she set up the greater part of the day and walked out for the fist
time since she arrived here; she eats hartily and is free from fever or
pain. I continue same course of medecine and regimen except that I
added one doze of 15 drops of the oil of vitriol today about noon.

There is a species of goosberry which grows very common about here in
open situations among the rocks on the sides of the clifts. they are
now ripe of a pale red colour, about the size of a common goosberry.
and like it is an ovate pericarp of soft pulp invelloping a number of
smal whitish coloured seeds; the pulp is a yelloish slimy muselaginous
substance of a sweetish and pinelike tast, not agreeable to me. the
surface of the berry is covered with a glutinous adhesive matter, and
the frut altho ripe retains it's withered corollar. this shrub seldom
rises more than two feet high and is much branched, the leaves resemble
those of the common goosberry only not so large; it has no thorns. the
berry is supported by seperate peduncles or footstalks of half an inch
in length. immence quantities of small grasshoppers of a brown colour
in the plains, they no doubt contribute much to keep the grass as low
as we find it which is not generally more than three inches, the grass
is a narrow leaf, soft, and affords a fine pasture for the Buffaloe.-

[Clark, June 18, 1805]
June 18th Tuesday 1805
we Set out early and arrived at the second great Cataract at about 200
yds above the last of 19 feet pitch- this is one of the grandest views
in nature and by far exceeds any thing I ever Saw, the Missouri falling
over a Shelveing rock for 47 feet 8 Inches with a Cascade &c of 14 feet
7 Inches above the Shoot for a 1/4 mile I decended the Clift below this
Cateract with ease measured the hight of the purpendicular fall of 47
feet 8 Inches at which place the river is 473 yards wide as also the
hight of the Cascade &c. a continuel mist quite across this fall* after
which we proceeded on up the river a little more than a mile to the
largest fountain or Spring I ever Saw, and doubt if it is not the
largest in America Known, this water boils up from under th rocks near
the edge of the river and falls imediately into the river 8 feet and
keeps its Colour for 1/2 a mile which is emencely Clear and of a bluish
Cast, proceeded on up the river passed a Succession of rapids to the
next great fall of 26 Ft. 5 I. river 580 yards wide this fall is not
intirely perpdincular a Short bench gives a Curve to the water as it
falls a butifull Small Island at the foot of this fall near the Center
of the Channel Covered with trees, the Missouri at this fall is 36
yards wide, a Considerable mist rises at this fall ocasionally, from
this pitch to the head of the rapids is one mile & has a fall of 20
feet, this is also a handsome Scenery a fall in an open leavel plain,
after takeing the hight & measureing the river proceeded on, Saw a
gange of Buffalow Swiming the river above the falls, Several of which
was drawn in to the rapids and with dificuelty mad Shore half drowned,
we killed one of those Cows & took as much meat as we wished. emence
herds of those animals in every direction, passed 2 groves in the Point
just above the rapids & dined in one opposit the mouth of Medison
River, which fails in on the Stard. Side and is 137 yards wide at its
mouth the Missouri above is 800 yards wide, as the river Missouri
appears to bear S Easterley I assended about 4 miles high to a Creek
which appeared to head in South mountains passed a Island of ____ and a
little timber in an Easterly bend at 1 mile, passed Some timber in a
point at 2 mile at or near the lower point of a large Island on which
we Shot at a large white bear. passed a Small Island in the middle and
one close on the Lard Shore at 3 miles behind the head of which we
Camped. those 3 Islands are all opposit, Soon after we Camped two
ganges of Buffalow crossed one above & the other below we killed 7 of
them & a calf and Saved as much of the best of the meat as we could
this evening, one man A Willard going for a load of meat at 170 yards
distance on an Island was attact by a white bear and verry near being
Caught, prosued within 40 yards of Camp where I was with one man I
collected 3 others of the party and prosued the bear (who had prosued
my track from a buffalow I had killed on the Island at about 300 yards
distance and chance to meet Willard) for fear of his attacking one man
Colter at the lower point of the Island, before we had got down the
bear had allarmed the man and prosued him into the water, at our
approach he retreated, and we relieved the man in the water, I Saw the
bear but the bushes was So thick that I could not Shoot him and it was
nearly dark, the wind from the S W & Cool killed a beaver & an elk for
their Skins this evening

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