Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
M >>
Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
Pages:
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
17 |
18 |
19 |
20 |
21 |
22 |
23 |
24 |
25 |
26 |
27 |
28 |
29 |
30 |
31 |
32 |
33 |
34 |
35 |
36 |
37 |
38 | 39 |
40 |
41 |
42 |
43 |
44 |
45 |
46 |
47 |
48 |
49 |
50 |
51 |
52 |
53 |
54 |
55 |
56 |
57 |
58 |
59 |
60 |
61 |
62 |
63 |
64 |
65 |
66 |
67 |
68 |
69 |
70 |
71 |
72 |
73 |
74 |
75 |
76 |
77 |
78 |
79 |
80 |
81 |
82 |
83 |
84 |
85 |
86 |
87 |
88 |
89 |
90 |
91 |
92 |
93 |
94 |
95 |
96 |
97 |
98 |
99 |
100 |
101 |
102 |
103 |
104 |
105 |
106 |
107 |
108 |
109 |
110 |
111 |
112 |
113 |
114 |
115 |
116 |
117 |
118 |
119 |
120 |
121 |
122 |
123 |
124 |
125 |
126 |
127 |
128 |
129 |
130 |
131 |
132 |
133 |
134 |
135
[Lewis, June 6, 1805]
Thursday June 6th 1805.
I now became well convinced that this branch of the Missouri had it's
direction too much to the North for our rout to the Pacific, and
therefore determined to return the next day after taking an observation
of the sun's Meridian Altitude in order to fix the latitude of the
place. The forepart of the last evening was fair but in the latter part
of the night clouded up and contnued so with short intervals of
sunshine untill a little before noon when the whole horizon was
overcast, and I of course disappointed in making the observation which
I much wished. I had sent Sergt. Pryor and Windsor early this morning
with orders to procede up the river to some commanding eminence and
take it's bearing as far as possible. in the mean time the four others
and myself were busily engaged in making two rafts on which we purposed
descending the river; we had just completed this work when Sergt. Pryor
and Windsor returned, it being about noon; they reported that they had
proceded from hence S 70 W. 6 m. to the summit of a commanding eminence
from whence the river on their left was about 21/2 miles distant; that
a point of it's Lard. bluff, which was visible boar S 80 W. distant
about 15 ms.; that the river on their left bent gradually arround to
this point, and from thence seemed to run Northwardly. we now took
dinner and embarcked with our plunder and five Elk's skins on the rafts
but were soon convinced that this mode of navigation was hazerdous
particularly with those rafts they being too small and slender. we wet
a part of our baggage and were near loosing one of our guns; I
therefore determined to abandon the rafts and return as we had come, by
land. I regreted much being obliged to leave my Elk's skins, which I
wanted to assist in forming my leather boat; those we had prepared at
Fort Mandan being injured in such manner that they would not answer. we
again swung our packs and took our way through the open plains for
about 12 mes. when we struck the river; the wind blew a storm from N.
E. accompanyed by frequent showers of rain; we were wet and very could.
continued our rout down the river only a few miles before the
Abruptness of the clifts and their near approach to the river compelled
us take the plains and once more face the storm; here we boar reather
too much to the North and it was late in the evening before we reached
the river, in our way we killed two buffaloe and took with us as much
of the flesh as served us that night, and a part of the next day. we
encamped a little below the entrance of the large dry Creek called Lark
C. having traveled abut 25 mes. since noon. it continues to rain and we
have no shelter, an uncomfortable nights rest is the natural
consequence.
[Clark, June 6, 1805]
June 6th Thursday 1805
a Cloudy Cold raw day wind hard from the N. E. we Set out early &
traveled down the little river which was imedeately in our Course on
this river we killed 7 Deer for their Skins the bottoms of this little
river is in everry respect except in extent like the large bottoms of
the Missouri below the forks containing a great perpotion of a kind of
Cotton wood with a leaf resembling a wild Cherry-. I also observed wild
Tanzey on this little river in great quantities, we halted at 12 oClock
and eate a part of a fat Buck, after Dinner we assended the Plain at
which time it began to rain and Continued all day, at 5 oClock we
arrived at our Camp on the point, where I expected to meet Capt Lewis-
he did not return this evening.- my Self and party much fatigued
haveing walked Constantly as hard as we Could march over a Dry hard
plain, dcending & assending the Steep river hills & gullies, in my
absence the party had killed an Elk & 2 buffalow, I Sent out for the
meat a part of which was brought in- nothing remarkable had transpired
at camp in my absence
[Lewis, June 7, 1805]
Friday June 7th 1805.
It continued to rain almost without intermission last night and as I
expected we had a most disagreable and wrestless night. our camp
possessing no allurements, we left our watery beads at an early hour
and continued our rout down the river. it still continues to rain the
wind hard from N. E. and could. the grownd remarkably slipry, insomuch
that we were unable to walk on the sides of the bluffs where we had
passed as we ascended the river. notwithstanding the rain that has now
fallen the earth of these bluffs is not wet to a greater debth than 2
inches; in it's present state it is precisely like walking over frozan
grownd which is thawed to small debth and slips equally as bad. this
clay not only appears to require more water to saturate it as I before
observed than any earth I ever observed but when saturated it appears
on the other hand to yeald it's moisture with equal difficulty. In
passing along the face of one of these bluffs today I sliped at a
narrow pass of about 30 yards in length and but for a quick and
fortunate recovery by means of my espontoon I should been precipitated
into the river down a craggy pricipice of about ninety feet. I had
scarcely reached a place on which I could stand with tolerable safety
even with the assistance of my espontoon before I heard a voice behind
me cry out god god Capt. what shall I do on turning about I found it
was Windsor who had sliped and fallen abut the center of this narrow
pass and was lying prostrate on his belley, with his wright hand arm
and leg over the precipice while he was holding on with the left arm
and foot as well as he could which appeared to be with much difficulty.
I discovered his danger and the trepedation which he was in gave me
still further concern for I expected every instant to see him loose his
strength and slip off; altho much allarmed at his situation I disguised
my feelings and spoke very calmly to him and assured him that he was in
no kind of danger, to take the knife out of his belt behind him with
his wright hand and dig a hole with it in the face of the bank to
receive his wright foot which he did and then raised himself to his
knees; I then directed him to take off his mockersons and to come
forward on his hands and knees holding the knife in one hand and the
gun in the other this he happily effected and escaped. those who were
some little distance bhind returned by my orders and waded the river at
the foot of the bluff where the water was breast deep. it was useless
we knew to attempt the plains on this part of the river in consequence
of the numerous steep ravines which intersected and which were quite as
had as the river bluffs. we therefore continued our rout down the river
sometimes in the mud and water of the bottom lands, at others in the
river to our breasts and when the water became so deep that we could
not wade we cut footsteps in the face of the steep bluffs with our
knives and proceded. we continued our disagreeable march through the
rain mud and water untill late in the evening having traveled only
about 18 miles, and encamped in an old Indian stick lodge which
afforded us a dry and comfortable shelter. during the day we had killed
six deer some of them in very good order altho none of them had yet
entirely discarded their winter coats. we had reserved and brought with
us a good supply of the best peices; we roasted and eat a hearty supper
of our venison not having taisted a mosel before during the day; I now
laid myself down on some willow boughs to a comfortable nights rest,
and felt indeed as if I was fully repaid for the toil and pain of the
day, so much will a good shelter, a dry bed, and comfortable supper
revive the sperits of the waryed, wet and hungry traveler.
[Clark, June 7, 1805]
June 7th Friday 1805
rained moderately all the last night and Continus this morning, the
wind from the S. W, off the mountains, The Themometer Stood at 40° above
0, I allow Several men to hunt a Short time to day, the rain Continue
moderately all day the bottom verry muddey 2 buffalow an Elk & Deer
killed to day- Capt. Lewis not returned yet. river falling
[Lewis, June 8, 1805]
Saturday June 8th 1805
It continued to rain moderately all last night this morning was cloudy
untill about ten oClock when it cleared off and became a fine day. we
breakfasted and set out about sunrise and continued our rout down the
river bottoms through the mud and water as yesterday, tho the road was
somewhat better than yesterday and we were not so often compelled to
wade in the river. we passed some dangerous and difficult bluffs. The
river bottoms affording all the timber which is to be seen in the
country they are filled with innumerable litle birds that resort
thither either for shelter or to build their nests. when sun began to
shine today these birds appeared to be very gay and sung most
inchantingly; I observed among them the brown thrush, Robbin, turtle
dove, linnit goaldfinch, the large and small blackbird, wren and
several other birds of less note. some of the inhabitants of the
praries also take reffuge in these woods at night or from a storm. The
whole of my party to a man except myself were fully peswaided that this
river was the Missouri, but being fully of opinion that it was neither
the main stream or that which it would be advisable for us to take, I
determined to give it a name and in honour of Miss Maria W-d. called it
Maria's River. it is true that the hue of the waters of this turbulent
and troubled stream but illy comport with the pure celestial virtues
and amiable qualifications of that lovely fair one; but on the other
hand it is a noble river; one destined to become in my opinion an
object of contention between the two great powers of America and Great
Britin with rispect to the adjustment of the North westwardly boundary
of the former; and that it will become one of the most interesting
brances of the Missouri in a commercial point of view, I have but
little doubt, as it abounds with anamals of the fur kind, and most
probably furnishes a safe and direct communication to that productive
country of valuable furs exclusively enjoyed at present by the subjects
of his Britanic Majesty; in adition to which it passes through a rich
fertile and one of the most beatifully picteresque countries that I
ever beheld, through the wide expance of which, innumerable herds of
living anamals are seen, it's borders garnished with one continued
garden of roses, while it's lofty and open forrests, are the habitation
of miriads of the feathered tribes who salute the ear of the passing
traveler with their wild and simple, yet sweet and cheerfull melody.- I
arrived at camp about 5 OClock in the evening much fatiegued, where I
found Capt. Clark and the ballance of the party waiting our return with
some anxiety for our safety having been absent near two days longer
than we had engaged to return. on our way to camp we had killed 4 deer
and two Antelopes; the skins of which as well as those we killed while
on the rout we brought with us. Maria's river may be stated generally
from sixty to a hundred yards wide, with a strong and steady current
and possessing 5 feet water in the most sholly parts.
As the incidents which occurred Capt. C. during his rout will be more
fully and satisfactoryley expressed by himself I here insert a copy of
his journal during the days we wer seperated.-
I now gave myself this evening to rest from my labours, took a drink of
grog and gave the men who had accompanyed me each a dram. Capt. Clark
ploted the courses of the two rivers as far as we had ascended them. I
now began more than ever to suspect the varacity of Mr. Fidler or the
correctness of his instruments. for I see that Arrasmith in his late
map of N. America has laid down a remarkable mountain in the chain of
the Rocky mountains called the tooth nearly as far South as Latitude 45°,
and this is said to be from the discoveries of Mr. Fidler? we are now
within a hundred miles of the Rocky Mountains, and I find from my
observation of the 3rd Inst that the latitude of this place is 47° 24'
12.8". the river must therefore turn much to the South, between this
and the rocky Mountain to have permitted Mr. Fidler to have passed
along the Eastern border of these mountains as far S. as nearly 45°
without even seeing it. but from hence as far as Capt. C. had ascended
the S. fork or Missouri being the distance of 55 miles it's course is
S. 29°W. and it still appeared to bear considerably to the W. of South as
far as he could see it. I think therefore that we shall find that the
Missouri enters the rocky mountains to the North of 45°- we did take the
liberty of placing his discoveries or at least the Southern extremity
of them about a degree further N. in the sketh which we sent on to the
government this spring mearly from the Indian information of the
bearing from Fort Mandan of the entrance of the Missouri into the Rocky
Mountains, and I reather suspect that actual observation will take him
at least one other degree further North. The general Course of Maria's
river from hence to the extremity of the last course taken by Sergt.
pryor is N 69° W. 59 mes.
[Clark, June 8, 1805]
June 8th Saturday 1805
rained moderately all the last night & Some this morning untill 10
oClock, I am Some what uneasy for Capt. Lewis & party as days has now
passed the time he was to have returned, I had all the arms put in
order and permited Severall men to hunt, aired and dried our Stores &c.
The rivers at this point has fallen 6 Inches Sinc our arrival, at 10
oClock cleared away and became fair- the wind all the morning from the
S. W. & hard- The water of the South fork is of a redish brown colour
this morning the other river of a whitish colour as usual-The mountains
to the South Covered with Snow. Wind Shifted to the N E in the evening,
about 5 oClock Capt. Lewis arrived with the party much fatigued, and
inform'd me that he had assended the river about 60 miles by Land and
that the river had a bold current of about 80 or 100 yards wide the
bottoms of Gravel & mud, and may be estimated at 5 feet water in
Sholest parts
Some rain in the evening. the left hand fork rose a little.
[Lewis, June 9, 1805]
Sunday June 9th 1805.
We determined to deposite at this place the large red perogue all the
heavy baggage which we could possibly do without and some provision,
salt, tools powder and Lead &c with a view to lighten our vessels and
at the same time to strengthen their crews by means of the seven hands
who have been heretofore employd. in navigating the red perogue;
accordingly we set some hands to diging a hole or cellar for the
reception of our stores. these holes in the ground or deposits are
called by the engages cashes; on enquiry I found that Cruzatte was well
acquainted this business and therefore left the management of it
intirely to him. today we examined our maps, and compared the
information derived as well from them as from the Indians and fully
settled in our minds the propryety of addopting the South fork for the
Missouri, as that which it would be most expedient for us to take. The
information of Mr. Fidler incorrect as it is strongly argued the
necessity of taking the South fork, for if he has been along the
Eastern side of the rocky mountains as far as even Latd. 47°, which I
think fully as far south as he ever was in that direction, and saw only
small rivulets making down from those mountains the presumption is very
strong that those little streams do not penetrate the rocky Mountains
to such distance as would afford rational grownds for a conjecture that
they had their sources near any navigable branch of the Columbia, and
if he has seen those rivulets as far south as 47° they are most probably
the waters of some Nothern branch of the Missouri or South fork
probably the river called by the Indians Medicine River; we therefore
cannot hope by going Northwardly of this place being already in
Latititude 47° 24" to find a stream between this place and the
Saskashawan which dose penetrate the Rocky mountains, and which
agreeably to the information of the Indians with rispect to the
Missouri, dose possess a navigable curent some distance in those
mountains. The Indian information also argued strongly in favour of the
South fork. they informed us that the water of the Missouri was nearly
transparent at the great falls, this is the case with the water of the
South fork; that the falls lay a little to the South of sunset from
them; this is also brobable as we are only a few minutes North of Fort
Mandan and the South fork bears considerably South from hence to the
Mountains; that the falls are below the rocky mountains and near the
Nothern termineation of one range of those mountains. a range of
mountains which apear behind the S. Mountains and which appear to
terminate S. W. from this place and on this side of the unbroken chain
of the Rocky Mountains gives us hope that this part of their
information is also correct, and there is sufficient distance between
this and the mountains for many and I fear for us much too many falls.
another impression on my mind is that if the Indians had passed any
stream as large as the South fork on their way to the Missouri that
they would not have omitted mentioning it; and the South fork from it's
size and complexion of it's waters must enter the Ry. Mountains and in
my opinion penetrates them to a great distance, or els whence such an
immence body of water as it discharges; it cannot procede from the dry
plains to the N. W. of the Yellow Stone river on the East side of the
Rocky Mountains for those numerous large dry channels which we
witnessed on that side as we ascended the Missouri forbid such a
conjecture; and that it should take it's sourses to the N. W. under
those mountains the travels of Mr. Fidler fobid us to beleive. Those
ideas as they occurred to me I indevoured to impress on the minds of
the party all of whom except Capt. C. being still firm in the beleif
that the N. Fork was the Missouri and that which we ought to take; they
said very cheerfully that they were ready to follow us any wher we
thought proper to direct but that they still thought that the other was
the river and that they were affraid that the South fork would soon
termineate in the mountains and leave us at a great distance from the
Columbia. Cruzatte who had been an old Missouri navigator and who from
his integrity knowledge and skill as a waterman had acquired the
confidence of every individual of the party declared it as his opinion
that the N. fork was the true genuine Missouri and could be no other.
finding them so determined in this beleif, and wishing that if we were
in an error to be able to detect it and rectify it as soon as possible
it was agreed between Capt. C. and myself that one of us should set out
with a small party by land up the South fork and continue our rout up
it untill we found the falls or reached the snowy Mountains by which
means we should be enabled to determine this question prety accurately.
this expedition I prefered undertaking as Capt. C best waterman &c. and
determined to set out the day after tomorrow; I wished to make some
further observations at this place, and as we had determined to leave
our blacksmith's bellows and tools here it was necessary to repare some
of our arms, and particularly my Airgun the main spring of which was
broken, before we left this place. these and some other preperations
will necessarily detain us two perhaps three days. I felt myself very
unwell this morning and took a portion of salts from which I feel much
releif this evening. The cash being completed I walked to it and
examined it's construction. it is in a high plain about 40 yards
distant from a steep bluff of the South branch on it's nothern side;
the situation a dry one which is always necessary. a place being fixed
on for a cash, a circle abut 20 inches in diameter is first discribed,
the terf or sod of this circle is carefully removed, being taken out as
entire as possible in order that it may be replaced in the same
situation when the chash is filled and secured. this circular hole is
then sunk perpendicularly to the debth of one foot, if the ground be
not firm somewhat deeper. they then begin to work it out wider as they
proceed downwards untill they get it about six or seven feet deep
giving it nearly the shape of the kettle or lower part of a large
still. it's bottom is also somewhat sunk in the center. the dementions
of the cash is in proportion to the quantity of articles intended to be
deposited. as the earth is dug it is handed up in a vessel and
carefully laid on a skin or cloth and then carryed to some place where
it can be thrown in such manner as to conseal it usually into some
runing stream wher it is washed away and leaves no traces which might
lead to the discovery of the cash. before the goods are deposited they
must be well dryed; a parsel of small dry sticks are then collected and
with them a floor is maid of three or four inches thick which is then
covered with some dry hay or a raw hide well dryed; on this the
articles are deposited, taking care to keep them from touching the
walls by putting other dry sticks between as you stoe away the
merchandize, when nearly full the goods are covered with a skin and
earth thrown in and well ramed untill with the addition of the turf
furst removed the whole is on a level with the serface of the ground.
in this manner dryed skins or merchandize will keep perfectly sound for
several years. the traders of the Missouri, particularly those engaged
in the trade with the Siouxs are obliged to have frequent recourse to
this method in order to avoyd being robed. most of the men are busily
engaged dressing skins for cloathing. In the evening Cruzatte gave us
some music on the violin and the men passed the evening in dancing
singing &c and were extreemly cheerfull.-
[Clark, June 9, 1805]
June 9th Sunday a fair morning the wind hard from the S. W. the river
during the night fell 1 Inch, we conclude to burry a few of our heavy
articles, Some Powder & Lead provisions & a fiw Tools, in case of
accident and leave one perogue at this place, and as Soon as those
things are accomplished to assend the South fork, which appears to be
more in our Course than the N. fork the Genl. Course of the South fork
for 35 miles is S. 29° W.- that of the N. fork is N. 69° W. for 59 miles,
and as we are North of Fort mandan it is probable the most Southerley
fork is the best for us.- Capt. Lewis a little unwell to day & take
Salts &c. Send out 7 men to make a cache or hole to burry the Stores,
air out Cloathes &c. &c. finish'd the cache or Seller &c. the men all
engaged dressing Skins for their clothes, in the evening the party
amused themselves danceing and Singing Songes in the most Social
manner. had a meridian altitude which gave 47° 24' 29" took some Luner
observations which gave for Longitude ____ variation 151/2° East
[Lewis, June 10, 1805]
Monday June 10th 1805.
The day being fair and fine we dryed all our baggage and merchandize.
Shields renewed the main Spring of my air gun we have been much
indebted to the ingenuity of this man on many occasions; without having
served any regular apprenticeship to any trade, he makes his own tools
principally and works extreemly well in either wood or metal, and in
this way has been extreenely servicable to us, as well as being a good
hunter and an excellent waterman. in order to guard against accedents
we thout it well to conceal some ammunicion here and accordingly buryed
a tin cannester of 4 lbs. of powder and an adequate quantity of lead
near our tent; a cannester of 6 lbs. lead and an ax in a thicket up the
S. Fork three hundred yards distant from the point. we concluded that
we still could spare more amunition for this deposit Capt. Clark was
therefore to make a further deposit in the morning, in addition to one
Keg of 20 lbs. and an adequate proportion of lead which had been laid
by to be buryed in the large Cash. we now scelected the articles to be
deposited in this cash which consisted of 2 best falling axes, one
auger, a set of plains, some files, blacksmiths bellowses and hammers
Stake tongs &c. 1 Keg of flour, 2 Kegs of parched meal, 2 Kegs of Pork,
1 Keg of salt, some chissels, a cooper's Howel, some tin cups, 2
Musquets, 3 brown bear skins, beaver skins, horns of the bighorned
anamal, a part of the men's robes clothing and all their superfluous
baggage of every discription, and beaver traps.- we drew up the red
perogue into the middle of a small Island at the entrance of Maria's
river, and secured and made her fast to the trees to prevent the high
floods from carrying her off put my brand on several trees standing
near her, and covered her with brush to shelter her from the effects of
the sun. At 3 P.M. we had a hard wind from the S. W. which continued
about an hour attended with thunder and rain. as soon as the shower had
passed over we drew out our canoes, corked, repared and loaded them. I
still feel myself somewhat unwell with the disentary, but determined to
set out in the morning up the South fork or Missouri leaving Capt.
Clark to compleat the deposit and follow me by water with the party;
accordingly gave orders to Drewyer, Joseph Fields, Gibson and Goodrich
to hold themselves in readiness to accompany me in the morning.
Sah-cah-gah, we a, our Indian woman is very sick this evening; Capt. C.
blead her. the night was cloudy with some rain.
Pages:
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
17 |
18 |
19 |
20 |
21 |
22 |
23 |
24 |
25 |
26 |
27 |
28 |
29 |
30 |
31 |
32 |
33 |
34 |
35 |
36 |
37 |
38 | 39 |
40 |
41 |
42 |
43 |
44 |
45 |
46 |
47 |
48 |
49 |
50 |
51 |
52 |
53 |
54 |
55 |
56 |
57 |
58 |
59 |
60 |
61 |
62 |
63 |
64 |
65 |
66 |
67 |
68 |
69 |
70 |
71 |
72 |
73 |
74 |
75 |
76 |
77 |
78 |
79 |
80 |
81 |
82 |
83 |
84 |
85 |
86 |
87 |
88 |
89 |
90 |
91 |
92 |
93 |
94 |
95 |
96 |
97 |
98 |
99 |
100 |
101 |
102 |
103 |
104 |
105 |
106 |
107 |
108 |
109 |
110 |
111 |
112 |
113 |
114 |
115 |
116 |
117 |
118 |
119 |
120 |
121 |
122 |
123 |
124 |
125 |
126 |
127 |
128 |
129 |
130 |
131 |
132 |
133 |
134 |
135