Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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we came too on the Lard. side in a handsome bottom of small cottonwood
timber opposite to the entrance of a very considerable river; but it
being too late to examine these rivers minutely to night we determined
to remain here untill the morning, and as the evening was favourable to
make some obsevations.-
[Clark, June 2, 1805]
June 2nd Sunday 1805
we had a hard wind and a little rain last night, this morning fair we
Set out at an early hour, wind from the S W. Some little rain to day
wind hard a head, the Countrey much like that of yesterday as discribed
Capt Lewis walked on Shore, himself & the hunters killed 6 Elk & a Bear
and 2 mule deer, and 2 buffalow which was all in good order a beaver
also killed to day, passed 9 Islands to day the Current Swift but
regular, we Camped on the Lard Side at the forks of the river the
Currents & Sizes of them we Could not examine this evening a fair night
we took Some Luner observations of moon & Stears
[Lewis, June 3, 1805]
Monday June 3rd 1805
This morning early we passed over and formed a camp on the point formed
by the junction of the two large rivers. here in the course of the day
I continued my observations as are above stated. An interesting
question was now to be determined; which of these rivers was the
Missouri, or that river which the Minnetares call Amahte Arz zha or
Missouri, and which they had discribed to us as approaching very near
to the Columbia river. to mistake the stream at this period of the
season, two months of the traveling season having now elapsed, and to
ascend such stream to the rocky Mountain or perhaps much further before
we could inform ourselves whether it did approach the Columbia or not,
and then be obliged to return and take the other stream would not only
loose us the whole of this season but would probably so dishearten the
party that it might defeat the expedition altogether. convinced we were
that the utmost circumspection and caution was necessary in deciding on
the stream to be taken. to this end an investigation of both streams
was the first thing to be done; to learn their widths, debths,
comparitive rappidity of their courants and thence the comparitive
bodies of water furnished by each; accordingly we dispatched two light
canoes with three men in each up those streams; we also sent out
several small parties by land with instructions to penetrate the
country as far as they conveniently can permiting themselves time to
return this evening and indeavour if possible to discover the distant
bearing of those rivers by ascending the rising grounds. between the
time of my A.M. and meridian Capt. C & myself stroled out to the top of
the hights in the fork of these rivers from whence we had an extensive
and most inchanting view; the country in every derection around us was
one vast plain in which innumerable herds of Buffalow were seen
attended by their shepperds the wolves; the solatary antelope which now
had their young were distributed over it's face; some herds of Elk were
also seen; the verdure perfectly cloathed the ground, the weather was
pleasent and fair; to the South we saw a range of lofty mountains which
we supposed to be a continuation of the S. Mountains, streching
themselves from S. E. to N. W. terminating abbrubtly about S. West from
us; these were partially covered with snow; behind these Mountains and
at a great distance, a second and more lofty range of mountains
appeared to strech across the country in the same direction with the
others, reaching from West, to the N of N. W., where their snowey tops
lost themselves beneath the horizon. this last range was perfectly
covered with snow. the direction of the rivers could be seen but little
way, soon loosing the break of their channels, to our view, in the
common plain. on our return to camp we boar a little to the left and
discovered a handsome little river falling into the N. fork on Lard.
side about 11/2 ms. above our camp. this little river has as much
timber in it's bottoms as either of the larger streams. there are a
great number of prickley pears in these plains; the Choke cherry grows
here in abundance both in the river bottoms and in the steep ravenes
along the river bluffs. saw the yellow and red courants, not yet ripe;
also the goosberry which begins to ripen; the wild rose which grows
here in great abundance in the bottoms of all these rivers is now in
full bloom, and adds not a little to the beaty of the cenery. we took
the width of the two rivers, found the left hand or S. fork 372 yards
and the N. fork 200. The noth fork is deeper than the other but it's
courant not so swift; it's waters run in the same boiling and roling
manner which has uniformly characterized the Missouri throughout it's
whole course so far; it's waters are of a whitish brown colour very
thick and terbid, also characteristic of the Missouri; while the South
fork is perfectly transparent runds very rappid but with a smoth
unruffled surface it's bottom composed of round and flat smooth stones
like most rivers issuing from a mountainous country. the bed of the N.
fork composed of some gravel but principally mud; in short the air &
character of this river is so precisely that of the missouri below that
the party with very few exceptions have already pronounced the N. fork
to be the Missouri; myself and Capt. C. not quite so precipitate have
not yet decided but if we were to give our opinions I believe we should
be in the minority, certain it is that the North fork gives the
colouring matter and character which is retained from hence to the
gulph of Mexico. I am confident that this river rises in and passes a
great distance through an open plain country I expect that it has some
of it's souces on the Eastern side of the rocky mountain South of the
Saskashawan, but that it dose not penetrate the first range of these
Mountains and that much the greater part of it's sources are in a
northwardly direction towards the lower and middle parts of the
Saskashawan in the open plains. convinced I am that if it penetrated
the Rocky Mountains to any great distance it's waters would be clearer
unless it should run an immence distance indeed after leaving those
mountains through these level plains in order to acquire it's turbid
hue. what astonishes us a little is that the Indians who appeared to be
so well acquainted with the geography of this country should not have
mentioned this river on wright hand if it be not the Missouri; the
river that scolds at all others, as they call it if there is in
reallity such an one, ought agreeably to their account, to have fallen
in a considerable distance below, and on the other hand if this
righthand or N. fork be the Missouri I am equally astonished at their
not mentioning the S. fork which they must have passed in order to get
to those large falls which they mention on the Missouri. thus have our
cogitating faculties been busily employed all day.
Those who have remained at camp today have been busily engaged in
dressing skins for cloathing, notwithstanding that many of them have
their feet so mangled and bruised with the stones and rough ground over
which they passed barefoot, that they can scarcely walk or stand; at
least it is with great pain they do either. for some days past they
were unable to wear their mockersons; they have fallen off
considerably, but notwithstanding the difficulties past, or those which
seem now to mennace us, they still remain perfectly cheerfull. In the
evening the parties whom we had sent out returned agreeably to
instructions. The parties who had been sent up the rivers in canoes
informed that they ascended some distance and had then left their
canoes and walked up the rivers a considerable distance further barely
leaving themselves time to return; the North fork was not so rappid as
the other and afforded the easiest navigation of course; Six feet
appeared to be the shallowest water of the S. Branch and 5 feet that of
the N. Their accounts were by no means satisfactory nor did the
information we acquired bring us nigher to the decision of our question
or determine us which stream to take. Sergt. Pryor had ascended the N.
fork and had taken the following courses and distances-viz-
Joseph and Reubin Fields reported that they had been up the South fork
about 7 mes. on a streight course somewhat N of W. and that there the
little river which discharges itself into the North fork just above us,
was within 100 yards of the S. fork; that they came down this little
river and found it a boald runing stream of about 40 yds. wide containg
much timber in it's bottom, consisting of the narrow and wide leafed
cottonwood with some birch and box alder undrgrowth willows rosebushes
currents &c. they saw a great number of Elk on this river and some
beaver. Those accounts being by no means satisfactory as to the
fundamental point; Capt. C. and myself concluded to set out early the
next morning with a small party each, and ascend these rivers untill we
could perfectly satisfy ourselves of the one, which it would be most
expedient for us to take on our main journey to the Pacific.
accordingly it was agreed that I should ascend the right hand fork and
he the left. I gave orders to Sergt. Pryor Drewyer, Shields, Windsor,
Cruzatte and La Page to hold themselves in readiness to accompany me in
the morning. Capt. Clark also selected Reubin &Joseph Fields, Sergt.
Gass, Shannon and his black man York, to accompany him. we agreed to go
up those rivers one day and a halfs march or further if it should
appear necessary to satisfy us more fully of the point in question. the
hunters killed 2 Buffaloe, 6 Elk and 4 deer today. the evening proved
cloudy. we took a drink of grog this evening and gave the men a dram,
and made all matters ready for an early departure in the morning. I had
now my sack and blanket happerst in readiness to swing on my back,
which is the first time in my life that I had ever prepared a burthen
of this kind, and I am fully convinced that it will not be the last. I
take my Octant with me also, this I confide La Page.
[Clark, June 3, 1805]
June 3rd Monday 1805
we formed a Camp on the point in the junction of the two rivers, and
dispatched a Canoe & three men up each river to examine and find if
possible which is the most probable branch, the left fork which is the
largest we are doubtfull of, the Indians do not mention any river
falling in on the right in this part of the Missouri, The Scolding
river, if there is Such a one Should have fallen in below agreeable to
their accts. we also dispatched men in different dircts. by land, to a
mountain Covered with Snow to the South & other up each river- Capt
Lewis and my Self walked out & assended the hill in the point observed
a leavel open Countrey to the foot of the mountains which lye South of
this, also a River which falls into the Right hand fork about 11/2
miles above its mouth on the Lard. Side this little river discharges a
great deal of water & contains as much Cotton timber in its bottoms as
either of the others we saw Buffalow & antelopes &c. wild Cheries, red
& yellow hurries, Goose berries &c. abound in the river bottoms,
prickley pares on the high plains, we had a meridian altitude and the
Lattd. produced was 47° 24' 12" N. the after part of the day proved
Cloudy, we measured each river and found the one to Right hand 200
yards wide of water & the Left hand fork 372 yards wide & rapid- the
right hand fork falling the other at a Stand and Clear, the right fork
and the river which fall into it is Coloured & a little muddey. Several
men Complain of their feet being Sore in walking in the Sand & their
being Cut by the Stones They to be Sure have a bad time of it obliged
to walk on Shore & haul the rope and 9/10 of their time bear footed, in
the evening late the Canoes returned and the men informed us that they
had assended Some miles by water & left their Canoes & walked on land
the greater part of the day, their accounts by no means Satisfactory,
Serjt. Pryor assended the right hand fork and took the following
Courses, &c
Joseph & Rubin Fields went up the left fork 7 miles on a direct line at
which place, the Small river which falls into the right hand fork
approaches within 100 yards of the South fork, they Came down the Small
river which is a bold Stream Covered with Elk & Some beaver, its
bottoms Covered with wood, as the Information given by those parties
respecting the rivers did not Satisfy us as to the main & principal
branch Capt. Lewis & my Self deturmined to go up each of those rivers
one Day & a half with a view to Satisfy ourselves which of the two was
the principal Stream and best calculated for us to assend- The hunters
Killed 2 buffalow, 6 Elk & Several deer to day we refreshed our party
with a dram &c Cloudy evining.-
[Lewis, June 4, 1805]
Tuesday June 4th 1805
This morning early Capt. C. departed, and at the same time I passed the
wright hand fork opposite to our camp below a small Island; from hence
I steered N. 30 W. 41/2 to a commanding eminence; here I took the
following bearings of the mountains which were in view. The North
Mountains appear to change their direction from that of being parallel
with the Missouri turning to the North and terminating abruptly; their
termineation bearing N. 48° E distant by estimate 30 mes. The South
Mountains appear to turn to the S. also terminating abrubtly, their
extremity bearing S. 8 W. distant 25 mes. The Barn Mountain, a lofty
mountain so called from it's resemblance to the roof of a large Barn,
is a seperate Mountain and appears reather to the wright of and
retreating from the extremity of the S. mts.; this boar S. 38 W.
distant 35 ms. The North fork which I am now ascending lies to my left
and appears to make a considerable bend to the N. W. on it's Western
border a range of hills about 10 mes. long appear to lye parallel with
the river and from hence bear N. 60° W. to the N. of this range of hills
an Elivated point of the river bluff on it's Lard. side boar N. 72° W.
distant 12 mes. to this last object I now directed my course through a
high level dry open plain. the whole country in fact appears to be one
continued plain to the foot of the mountains or as far as the eye can
reach; the soil appears dark rich and fertile yet the grass is by no
means as high nor dose it look so luxurient as I should have expected,
it is short just sufficient to conceal the ground. great abundance of
prickly pears which are extreemly troublesome; as the thorns very
readily perce the foot through the Mockerson; they are so numerous that
it requires one half of the traveler's attention to avoid them In these
plains I observed great numbers of the brown Curloos, a small species
of curloo or plover of a brown colour about the size of the common
snipe and not unlike it in form with a long celindric curved and
pointed beak; it's wings are proportionately long and the tail short;
in the act of liteing this bird lets itself down by an extention of
it's wings without motion holding their points very much together above
it's back, in this rispect differing ascentially from any bird I ever
observed. a number of sparrows also of three distinct species I
observed. also a small bird which in action resembles the lark, it is
about the size of a large sparrow of a dark brown colour with some
white fathers in the tail; this bird or that which I take to be the
male rises into the air about 60 feet and supporting itself in the air
with a brisk motion of the wings sings very sweetly, has several shrill
soft notes reather of the plaintive order which it frequently repeats
and varies, after remaining stationary about a minute in his aireal
station he descends obliquely occasionly pausing and accomnying his
decension with a note something like twit twit twit; on the ground he
is silent. thirty or forty of these birds will be stationed in the air
at a time in view, these larks as I shall call them add much to the
gayety and cheerfullness of the scene. All those birds are now seting
and laying their eggs in the plains; their little nests are to be seen
in great abundance as we pass. there are meriads of small grasshoppers
in these plains which no doubt furnish the principal aliment of this
numerous progeny of the feathered creation. after walking about eight
miles I grew thisty and there being no water in the plains I changed my
direction and boar obliquely in towards the river, on my arrival at
which about 3 mes. below the point of observation, we discovered two
deer at feed at some distance near the river; I here halted the party
and sent Drewyer to kill one of them for breakfast; this excellent
hunter soon exceded his orders by killing of them both; they proved to
be two Mule Bucks in fine order; we soon kindled a fire cooked and made
a hearty meal. it was not yet twelve when we arrived at the river and I
was anxious to take the Meridian Altd. of the sun but the clouds prevent
ed my obtaining the observation. after refreshing ourselves we proceded
up the river to the extremity of the first course, from whence the
river boar on it's general course N. 15° W. 2 M. to a bluff point on
Stard. here Drewyer killed four other deer of the common kind; we
skined them and hung up a part of the meat and the skins as we did also
of the first, and took as much of the meat as we thought would answer
for our suppers and proceeded N. 30 W. 2 m. to the entrance of a large
creek on Lard. side the part of the river we have passed is from 40 to
60 yds. wide, is deep, has falling banks, the courant strong, the water
terbid and in short has every appearance of the missouri below except
as to size. it's bottoms narrow but well timbered. Salts coal and other
mineral appearances as usual; the bluffs principally of dark brown,
yellow and some white clay; some freestone also appears in places. The
river now boar N. 20° E. 12 mes. to a bluff on Lard. At the commencement
of this course we ascended the hills which are about 200 feet high, and
passed through the plains about 3 m. but finding the dry ravines so
steep and numerous we determined to return to the river and travel
through it's bottoms and along the foot and sides of the bluffs,
accordingly we again reached the river about 4 miles from the
commencement of the last course and encamped a small distant above on
the Stard. side in a bend among the willow bushes which defended us
from the wind which blew hard from the N. W. it rained this evening and
wet us to the skin; the air was extremely could. just before we
encamped Drewyer fired at a large brown bar across the river and
wounded him badly but it was too late to pursue him. killed a braro and
a beaver, also at the place of our encampment, a very fine Mule deer.
we saw a great number of Buffaloe, Elk, wolves and foxes today. the
river bottoms form one emence garden of roses, now in full bloe.
[Clark, June 4, 1805]
June 4th Tuesday 1805
Capt. Lewis & my Self each with a Small party of men Set out earlythose
who accompanied Capt Lewis were G. Drewyer Serjt. Pryor, J Shields, P.
Crusat J. B. de Page, R. Winser, went up the N. side of the N. fork.
those who accompanied me were Serjt. Gass Jos. & Ruben Fields G.
Shannon & my black man York, and we Set out to examine the South fork,
our first Course was S. 25° W. 7 miles to the S. fork at a Spring, at
which place the little river which falls into the N. fork is 100 yards
distant only Seperated from the South fork by a narrow ridge. our
course from thence S. 20° W. 8 miles to the river at an Island where we
dined below a Small river falls in on the S E Side which heads in a
mountain to the S. E about 20 miles. North of this place about 4 miles
the little river brakes thro a high ridge into the open Leavel plain
thro which we have passd. from the point, this plain is covered with
low grass & prickley pear, emence number of Prarie dogs or barking
Squirel are thro this plain- after eating we proceeded on N. 45° W.
Struck the river at 3 miles 5, 9 & 13 miles at which place we encamped
in an old Indian lodge made of Stiks and bark at the river near our
camp we Saw two white Bear, one of them was nearly catching Joseph
Fields who could not fire, as his gun was wet the bear was So near that
it Struck his foot, and we were not in a Situation to give him
assistance, a Clift of rocks Seperated us the bear got allarmed at our
Shot & yells & took the river.- Some rain all the afternoon Saw Several
Gangues of Buffalow at a distance in the open plains on each Side, Saw
Mule deer antilopes & wolves- The river is rapid & Closely himed on one
or the other Side with high bluffs, Crouded with Islands & graveley
bars Containing but a Small quantity of timber on its bottoms & none on
the high land.
[Lewis, June 5, 1805]
Wednesday June 5th 1805.
This morning was cloudy and so could that I was obleged to have
recourse to a blanket coat in order to keep myself comfortable altho
walking. the rain continued during the greater part of last night. the
wind hard from N. W. we set out at sunrise and proceded up the river
eight miles on the course last taken yesterday evening, at the
extremity of which a large creek falls in on the Stard. 25 yards. wide
at it's entrance, some timber but no water, notwithstanding the rain;
it's course upwards is N. E. it is astonishing what a quantity of water
it takes to saturate the soil of this country, the earth of the plains
are now opened in large crivices in many places and yet looks like a
rich loam from the entrance of this Creek (which I called Lark C.) the
river boar N. 50. W. 4 m. at the entrance of this creek the bluffs were
very steep and approached the river so near on the Stard. side that we
ascended the hills and passed through the plains; at the extremity of
this course we returned to the river which then boar North 2 rues. from
the same point, I discovered a lofty single mountain which appeard to
be at a great distance, perhaps 80 or more miles it boar N. 52 W. from
it's conic figure I called it tower Mountain. we now passed through the
river bottoms to the extremity of the last course thence with the river
S 60° W 11/2 m. S 10 W. 3 m N 50 W 11/2 at the extremity of which I again
ascended the bluffs and took a course to a point of the Lard. bluffs of
the river which boar West 10 m. the river making a deep bend to the
south that is of at least five miles from the center of the chord line
to the center of the bend. on this course we passed through the plains
found the plains as yesterday extreemly leavel and beautifull, great
quanties of Buffaloe, some wolves foxes and Antelopes seen. near the
river the plain is cut by deep ravines in this plain and from one to
nine miles from the river or any water, we saw the largest collection
of the burrowing or barking squirrels that we had ever yet seen; we
passed through a skirt of the territory of this community for about 7
miles. I saw a flock of the mountain cock, or a large species of heath
hen with a long pointed tail which the Indians informed us were common
to the Rockey Mountains, I sent Shields to kill one of them but he was
obliged to fire a long distance at them and missed his aim. as we had
not killed or eat anything today we each killed a burrowing squrrel as
we passed them in order to make shure of our suppers. we again
intersepted the river at the expiration of the last course or the lard.
bluffs, from whence it now boar N 80° W. 2 mes. from this point saw some
other lofty mountains to the N. W. of Tower Mtn. which boar N. 65°W. 80
or 100 mes. distant at the expiration of this course we killed five Elk
and a blacktailed or mule deer and encamped on Stard. side of the river
in a handsome well timbered bottom where there were several old stick
lodges. in the forepart of the day there was but little timber in the
river bottoms but the quantity is now greater than usual. the river is
about 80 yds. wide with a strong steady courant and from 6 to 10 feet
water. I had the burrowing squirrels roasted by way of experiment and
found the flesh well flavored and tender; some of them were very fat.
[Clark, June 5, 1805]
June 5th Wednesday 1805
Some little rain & Snow last night the mountains to our S E. covered
with Snow this morning air verry Cold & raining a little, we Saw 8
buffalow opposit, they made 2 attempts to Cross, the water being So
Swift they Could not, about the time we were Setting out three white
bear approached our Camp we killed the three & eate part of one & Set
out & proceeded on N. 20° W 11 miles. -k the river at maney places in
this distance to a ridge on the N. Side t m the top of which I could
plainly See a mountain to the South & W. covered with Snow at a long
distance, The mountains opposit to us to the S. E. is also Covered with
Snow this morning.- a high ridge from those mountains approach the
river on the S E Side forming Some Clifts of hard dark Stone.- From the
ridge at which place I Struck the river last, I could ____ discover
that the river run west of South a long distance, and has a Strong
rapid Current, as this river Continued its width debth & rapidity and
the Course west of South, going up further would be useless, I
deturmined to return, I accordingly Set out, thro the plain on a Course
N. 30° E on my return & Struck the little river at 20 miles passing thro
a Leavel plain, at the little river we killed 2 buck Elk & dined on
their marrow, proceeded on a few miles & Camped, haveing killed 2 deer
which was verry fat, Some few drops of rain to day, the evening fair
wind hard from the N. E. I Saw great numbers of Elk & white tale deer,
Some beaver, antelope mule deer & wolves & one bear on this little
river marked my name in a tree N. Side near the ridge where the little
river brakes thro
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