Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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[Clark, May 30, 1805]
May 30th Thursday 1805
The rain conmmenced yesterday evining, and continued moderately through
the course of the night, more rain has now fallin than we have
experienced Since the 15th of September last, the rain continued this
morning, and the wind too high for us to proceed, untill about 11
oClock at which time we Set out, and proceeded on with great labour, we
were obliged to make use of the Tow rope & the banks were So muddey &
Slipery that the men could Scercely walk not with Standing we proceeded
on as well as we could wind hard from the N W. in attempting to assend
a rapid our toe Cord broke & we turned without injurey, those rapids or
Shoaley points are noumerous and dificuelt, one being at the mouth of
every drean Some little rain at times all day one man assended the high
Countrey and it was raining & Snowing on those hills, the day has
proved to be raw and Cold. Back from the river is tollerably leavel, no
timber of any kind on the hills, and only a fiew Scattering cotton
willow & ash near the river, much hard rock; & rich earth, the Small
portion of rain which has fallen causes the rich earth as deep as is
wet to Slip into the river or bottoms &c.
we discover in Several places old encampments of large bands of
Indians, a fiew weeks past and appear to be makeing up the river- Those
Indians we believe to be the Blackfoot Inds. or Menetares who inhabit
the heads of the Saskashowin & north of this place and trade a little
in the Fort de Prarie establishments. we Camped in a grove of Cotton
trees on the Stard Side, river rise 11/2 In.
[Lewis, May 31, 1805]
Friday May 31st 1805.
This morning we proceeded at an early hour with the two perogues
leaving the canoes and crews to bring on the meat of the two buffaloe
that were killed last evening and which had not been brought in as it
was late and a little off the river. soon after we got under way it
began to rain and continued untill meridian when it ceased but still
remained cloudy through the ballance of the day. The obstructions of
rocky points and riffles still continue as yesterday; at those places
the men are compelled to be in the water even to their armpits, and the
water is yet very could, and so frequent are those point that they are
one fourth of their time in the water, added to this the banks and
bluffs along which they are obliged to pass are so slippery and the mud
so tenacious that they are unable to wear their mockersons, and in that
situation draging the heavy burthen of a canoe and walking ocasionally
for several hundred yards over the sharp fragments of rocks which
tumble from the clifts and garnish the borders of the river; in short
their labour is incredibly painfull and great, yet those faithfull
fellows bear it without a murmur. The toe rope of the white perogue,
the only one indeed of hemp, and that on which we most depended, gave
way today at a bad point, the perogue swung and but slightly touched a
rock, yet was very near overseting; I fear her evil gennii will play so
many pranks with her that she will go to the bottomm some of those
days.- Capt. C. walked on shore this morning but found it so
excessively bad that he shortly returned. at 12 OCk. we came too for
refreshment and gave the men a dram which they received with much
cheerfullness, and well deserved.
The hills and river Clifts which we passed today exhibit a most
romantic appearance. The bluffs of the river rise to the hight of from
2 to 300 feet and in most places nearly perpendicular; they are formed
of remarkable white sandstone which is sufficiently soft to give way
readily to the impression of water; two or thre thin horizontal stratas
of white free-stone, on which the rains or water make no impression,
lie imbeded in these clifts of soft stone near the upper part of them;
the earth on the top of these Clifts is a dark rich loam, which forming
a graduly ascending plain extends back from 1/2 a mile to a mile where
the hills commence and rise abruptly to a hight of about 300 feet more.
The water in the course of time in decending from those hills and
plains on either side of the river has trickled down the soft sand
clifts and woarn it into a thousand grotesque figures, which with the
help of a little immagination and an oblique view at a distance, are
made to represent eligant ranges of lofty freestone buildings, having
their parapets well stocked with statuary; collumns of various
sculpture both grooved and plain, are also seen supporting long
galleries in front of those buildings; in other places on a much nearer
approach and with the help of less immagination we see the remains or
ruins of eligant buildings; some collumns standing and almost entire
with their pedestals and capitals; others retaining their pedestals but
deprived by time or accident of their capitals, some lying prostrate an
broken othes in the form of vast pyramids of connic structure bearing a
sereis of other pyramids on their tops becoming less as they ascend and
finally terminating in a sharp point. nitches and alcoves of various
forms and sizes are seen at different hights as we pass. a number of
the small martin which build their nests with clay in a globular form
attatched to the wall within those nitches, and which were seen
hovering about the tops of the collumns did not the less remind us of
some of those large stone buildings in the U States. the thin stratas
of hard freestone intermixed with the soft sandstone seems to have
aided the water in forming this curious scenery. As we passed on it
seemed as if those seens of visionary inchantment would never have and
end; for here it is too that nature presents to the view of the
traveler vast ranges of walls of tolerable workmanship, so perfect
indeed are those walls that I should have thought that nature had
attempted here to rival the human art of masonry had I not recollected
that she had first began her work. These walls rise to the hight in
many places of 100 feet, are perpendicular, with two regular faces and
are from one to 12 feet thick, each wall retains the same thickness at
top which it possesses at bottom. The stone of which these walls are
formed is black, dence and dureable, and appears to be composed of a
large portion of earth intermixed or cemented with a small quantity of
sand and a considerable portion of talk or quarts. these stones are
almost invariably regular parallelepipeds, of unequal sizes in the
walls, but equal in their horizontal ranges, at least as to debth.
these are laid regularly in ranges on each other like bricks, each
breaking or covering the interstice of the two on which it rests. thus
the purpendicular interstices are broken, and the horizontal ones
extend entire throughout the whole extent of the walls. These stones
seem to bear some proportion to the thickness of the walls in which
they are employed, being larger in the thicker walls; the greatest
length of the parallelepiped appears to form the thickness of the
thiner walls, while two or more are employed to form that of the
thicker walls. These walls pass the river in several places, rising
from the water's edge much above the sandstone bluffs, which they seem
to penetrate; thence continuing their course on a streight line on
either side of the river through the gradually ascending plains, over
which they tower to the hight of from ten to seventy feet until) they
reach the hills, which they finally enter and conceal themselves. these
walls sometimes run parallel to each other, with several ranges near
each other, and at other times interscecting each other at right
angles, having the appearance of the walls of ancient houses or
gardens. I walked on shore this evening and examined these walls
minutely and preserved a specimine of the stone. I found the face of
many of the river hills formed of Clifts of very excellent free stone
of a light yellowish brown colour; on these clifts I met with a species
of pine which I had never seen, it differs from the pitchpine in the
particular of it's leaf and cone, the first being vastly shorter, and
the latter considerably longer and more pointed. I saw near those
bluffs the most beautiful) fox that I ever beheld, the colours appeared
to me to be a fine orrange yellow, white and black, I endevoured to
kill this anamal but it discovered me at a considerable distance, and
finding that I could get no nearer, I fired on him as he ran, and
missed him; he concealed himself under the rocks of the clift; it
appeared to me to be about the size of the common red fox of the
Atlantic states, or reather smaller than the large fox common to this
country; convinced I am that it is a distinct species. The appearance
of coal continues but in small quantities, but little appearance of
birnt hills or pumice stones the mineral salts have in some measure
abated and no quarts. we saw a great number of the Bighorn some mule
deer and a few buffaloe and Elk, no antelopes or common deer. Drewyer
who was with me and myself killed two bighorned anamals; the sides of
the Clifts where these anamals resort much to lodg, have the peculiar
smell of the sheepfolds. the party killed in addition to our hunt 2
buffaloe and an Elk. the river today has been from 150 to 250 yds. wide
but little timber today on the river.
[Clark, May 31, 1805]
May 31st Friday 1805.
A cloudy morning we dispatched all the Canoes to Collect the meat of 2
Buffalow killed last night a head and a little off the river, and
proceeded on with the perogues at an early hour. I attempted to walk on
Shore Soon found it verry laborious as the mud Stuck to my mockersons &
was verry Slippery. I return'd on board. it continued to rain
moderately untill about 12 oClock when it ceased, & Continued Cloudy.
the Stone on the edge of the river continue to form verry Considerable
rapids, which are troublesom & dificuelt to pass, our toe rope which we
are obliged to make use of altogether broke & we were in Some danger of
turning over in the perogue in which I was, we landed at 12 and
refreshed the men with a dram, our men are obliged to under go great
labour and fatigue in assending this part of the Missouri, as they are
compelled from the rapidity of the Current in many places to walk in
the water & on Slippery hill Sides or the Sides of rocks, on Gravel &
thro a Stiff mud bear footed, as they Cannot keep on Mockersons from
the Stiffness of the mud & decline of the Slipy. hills Sides- the Hills
and river Clifts of this day exhibit a most romantick appearance on
each Side of the river is a white Soft Sand Stone bluff which rises to
about half the hight of the hills, on the top of this Clift is a black
earth on points, in maney places this Sand Stone appears like antient
ruins some like elegant buildings at a distance, Some like Towers &c.
&c. in maney places of this days march we observe on either Side of the
river extraodanary walls of a black Semented Stone which appear to be
regularly placed one Stone on the other, Some of those walls run to the
hite of 100 feet, they are from about 1 foot to 12 feet thick and are
perpendicular, those walls Commence at the waters edge & in Some places
meet at right angles- those walls appear to Continue their Course into
the Sand Clifts, the Stones which form those walls are of different
Sizes all Squar edged, Great numbers has fallen off from the walls near
the river which cause the walls to be of uneaquil hite, in the evening
the Countrey becomes lower and the bottoms wider, no timber on the
uplands, except a few Cedar & pine on the Clifts a few Scattering
Cotton trees on the points in the river bottoms, The apparance of Coal
Continus Capt Lewis walked on Shore & observed a Species of Pine we had
never before Seen, with a Shorter leaf than Common & the bur different,
he also Collected Some of the Stone off one of the walls which appears
to be a Sement of Isin glass black earth we Camped on the Stard Side in
a Small timbered bottom above the mouth of a Creek on the Stard Side
our hunters killed, 2 animals with big horns, 2 Buffalow & an Elk, we
Saw Great numbers of those big horned animals on the Clifts, but fiew
Buffalow or Elk, no antelope, a fiew mule deer, Saw a fox to day. The
river rises a little it is from 150 to 250 yds. wide
[Clark, May 31, 1805]
May 31st Friday 1805
Cloudy morning, we proceeded on at an early hour with the two Perogues
leaving the Canoes and crews to bring on the meat of two Buffalow that
were killed last evening and which had not been brought in as it was
late and a little off the river. Soon after we got under way it began
to rain and Continued untill 12 oClock when it Seased but Still
remained cloudy through the ballance of the day. the obstructions of
rocky points and riffles Still continue as yesterday; at those places
the men are compelled to be in the water even to their armpits, and the
water is yet very cold, and So frequent are those points that they are
one fourth of their time in the water. added to this the bank and bluff
along which they are obliged to pass are So Slippery and the mud So
tenatious that they are unable to bare their mockersons, and in that
Situation dragging the heavy burthen of a Canoe and Walking
occasionally for Several hundred yards over the Sharp fragments of
rocks which tumble from the Clifts; and in Short their labour is
incredibly painfull and great, yet those faithfull fellows bear it
without a murmer.
The toe rope of the white perogue, the only one indeed of hemp, and
that on which we most depended, gave way to day at a bad point, the
perogue Swong and but slightly touched a rock, yet was very near
oversetting; I fear her evil Ginnie will play So many pranks with her
that She will go to the bottom Some of those days.
I attempted to walk on Shore this morning but found it so excessivily
bad that I Soon returned on board. at 12 oClock we came too for
refreshment and gave the men a dram which they received with much
Chearfulness, and well deserved all wet and disagreeable. Capt. Lewis
walked on Shore, he informed one that he Saw "the most butifull fox in
the world" the Colour appeared to him to be of a fine Orrange yellow,
white and black, he fired at this fox running and missed him, he
appeared to be about the size of the common red fox of the united
States, or rather smaller.
The hills and river clifts which we pass to day exhibit a most romantic
appearance. The Bluffs of the river rise to the hight of from 2 to 300
feet and in most places nearly perpendicular; they are formed of
remarkable white Sandstone which is Sufficiently Soft to give way
readily to the impression of water; two or three thin horizontal
Stratas of white free Stone, on which the rains or water make no
impression, lie imbeded in those clifts of Soft Stone near the upper
part of them; the earth on the top of these clifts is a dark rich loam,
which forming a gradual ascending plain extend back from 1/2 a mile to
a mile where the hills commence and rise abruptly to the hight of about
300 feet more. The water in the Course of time acecending from those
hills and plains on either Side of the river has trickled down the Soft
Sand Clifts and woarn it into a thousand grotesque figures; which with
the help of a little imagination and an oblique view at a distance are
made to represent elegant ranges of lofty freestone buildings, haveing
their parapets well Stocked with Statuary; Colloms of various
Sculptures both Grooved and plain, are also Seen Supporting long
galleries in part of those buildings; in other places on a much nearer
approach and with the with the help of less immagination we See the
remains of ruins of eligant buildings; Some Collumns Standing and
almost entire with their pedestals and Capitals, others retaining their
pedestals but deprived by time or accedint of their capitals, Some
lying prostrate and broken, others in the form of vast Pyramids of
connic Structure bearing a Serious of other pyramids on their tops
becomeing less as they ascend and finally termonateing in a Sharp
point. nitches and alcoves of various forms and Sizes are Seen at
different hights as we pass. a number of the Small martin which build
their nests with Clay of a globular form attached to the wall within
those nitches, and which were Seen hovering about the top of the
collumns did not the less remind us of Some of those large Stone
buildings in the United States. The thin Stratas of hard free Stone
intermixed with the Soft Sand Stone Seems to have aided the water in
forming this Curious Scenery.
as we passed on it Seemed as if those Seens of Visionary enchantment
would never have an end; for here it is too that nature presents to the
view of the traveler vast ranges of walls of tolerable workmanship, So
perfect indeed are those walls that I Should have thought that nature
had attempted here to rival the human art of Masonry had I not
recollected that She had first began her work. These walls rise to the
hight in many places of 100 feet, are perpindicular, with two regular
faces, and are from one to 12 feet thick, each wall retains the Same
thickness to the top which it possesses at bottom. The Stone of which
these walls are formed is black, dense and dureable, and appears to be
Composed of a large portion of earth intermixed or Cemented with a
Small quantity of Sand and a Considerable portion of quarts. these
Stones are almost invariably regular parallelepipeds, of unequal Sizes
in the wall, but equal in their horizontal ranges, at least as to
debth. These are laid regularly in ranges on each other like bricks,
each breaking or covering this interstice of the two on which it rests,
thus the pirpendicular interstices are broken, and the horizontal ones
extend entire throughout the whole extent of the walls. These Stones
Seam to bear Some proportion to the thickness of the walls in which
they are employd, being larger in the thicker walls; the greatest
length of the parallelepiped appear to form the thickness of the thiner
walls, while two or more are employed to form that of the thicker
walls. Those walls pass the river in Several places rising from the
waters edge much above the Sand Stone Bluffs, which they Seam to
penetrate; thence Continueing their course on a Streight line on either
Side of the river thorough the gradually ascending plains over which
they tower to the hight of from ten to 90 feet untill they reach the
hills which they finally enter and Conceal themselves. these walls
Sometimes run parallel to each other, with Several ranges near each
other, and at other times intersecting each other at right angles,
haveing the appearance of the walls of ancient houses or gardins. both
Capt Lewis and My self walked on Shore this evening and examined those
walls minutely and preserved a Specimine of the Stone.- I found many
clifts of very excellent free Stone of a light yellowish brown Colour.
Capt. Lewis observed a Species of pine which I had never Seen, it
differs from the pitch pine in the particular of its leaf and Cone, the
first being partly Shorter, and the latter considerably longer and more
pointed. The appearance of Coal Continues but in Smaller quantities,
but little appearance of burnt hills or pumicestone. the mineral Salt
in Some measure have abated and no quarts. we Saw a great number of the
Big Horn, Some mule deer, and a few Buffalow and Elk, no antelopes or
Common Deer-. Capt. Lewis killed a Big horn animal. the party killed 2
Buffalow one Elk and a Big horn or Ibex to day-. The river has been
from 150 to 250 yards wide but little timber on the river to day. river
less muddy than it was below.
[Lewis, June 1, 1805]
Saturday June 1st 1805
The moring was cloudy and a few drops of rain. Set out at an early hour
and proceeded as usual by the help of our chords. the river Clifts and
bluffs not so high as yesterday and the country becomes more level. a
mountain or a part of the N. Mountain appears to approach the river
within 8 or 10 ms. bearing N. from our encampment of the last evening.
Capt C. who walked on shore today informed me that the river hills were
much lower than usual and that from the tops of those hills he had a
delightfull view of rich level and extensive plains on both sides of
the river; in those plains, which in many places reach the river
clifts, he observed large banks of pure sand which appeared to have
been driven by the S W. winds from the river bluffs and there
deposited. the plains are more fertile at some distance from the river
than near the bluffs where the surface of the earth is very generally
covered with small smothe pebbles which have the appearance of having
been woarn by the agitation of the waters in which they were no doubt
once immerced. A range of high Mountains appear to the S. W. at a
considerable distance covered with snow, they appear to run Westerly.
no timber appears on the highlands; but much more than yesterday on the
river and Islands. rockey points and shoals less freequent than
yesterday but some of them quite as bad when they did occur. the river
from 2 to 400 yards wide, courant more gentle and still becoming
clearer. game is by no means as abundant as below; we killed one male
bighorn and a mule deer today; saw buffalow at a distance in the plains
particularly near a small Lake on Lard. side about 8 ms. distant. some
few drops of rain again fell this evening. we passed six Islands and
encamped on the 7th; they are all small but contain some timber. the
wind has been against us all day.- I saw the choke cherry the yellow
and red courant bushes; the wild rose appears now to be in full bloom
as are also the prickley pear which are numerous in these plains.- We
also saw some Indian Lodges of sticks today which did not appear to
have been long evacuated.- some coal appear in the bluffs.
[Clark, June 1, 1805]
June 1st Satterday 1805
a Cloudy morning we Set out at an early hour and proseeded on as usial
with the toe rope The Countrey appears to be lower and the Clifts not
So high or Common, a mountain or a part of the north Mountain about 8
or 10 miles N. of this place, I walked on Shore to day found the Plains
much lower than we have Seen them and on the top we behold an extencive
plain on both Sides, in this plain I observed maney noles of fine Sand
which appeared to have blown from the river bluffs and collected at
these points Those plains are fertile near the river a great no. of
Small Stone, I observed at Some distance to the S. W. a high mountain
which appears to bear westerly The Cole appear as usial, more Cotton
trees Scattered on the Shores & Islands than yesterday- no timber on
the high land, the river from 2 to 400 yards wide & current more jentle
than yesterday but fiew bad rapid points to day- the wild animals not
So plenty as below we only killed a ram & mule Deer to day, we Saw
Buffalow at a distance in the plains, particularly near a Lake on the
Lard. Side about 8 miles distant from the river- We passed Six Islands
and encamped on the 7th all those Islands are Small but contain Some
timber on them The river riseing a little Wind to day from the S. W.
Som fiew drops of rain in the morning and also in the evening, flying
Clouds all day
Saw Several Indian camps made of Sticks & bark Set up on end and do not
appear to belong evacuated- The roses are in full bloome, I observe
yellow berries, red berry bushes Great numbers of Wild or choke
Cheries, prickley pares are in blossom & in great numbers
[Lewis, June 2, 1805]
Sunday June 2ed 1805
The wind blew violently last night and was attended by a slight shower
of rain; the morning was fair and we set out at an early hour. imployed
the chord as usual the greater part of the day. the courant was strong
tho regular, and the banks afforded us good toeing. the wind was hard
and against us yet we proceded with infinitely more ease than the two
precedeing days. The river bluffs still continue to get lower and the
plains leveler and more extensive; the timber on the river increases in
quantity; the country in all other rispects much as discribed
yesterday. I think we are now completely above the black hills we had a
small shower of rain today but it lasted only a few minutes and was
very moderate. Game becomeing more abundant this morning and I thought
it best now to loose no time or suffer an opportunity to escape in
providing the necessary quantity of Elk's skins to cover my leather
boat which I now expect I shall be obliged to use shortly. Accordingly
I walked on shore most of the day with some of the hunters for that
purpose and killed 6 Elk 2 buffale 2 Mule deer and a bear. these
anamals were all in good order we therefore took as much of the meat as
our canoes and perogues could conveniently carry. the bear was very
near catching Drewyer; it also pursued Charbono who fired his gun in
the air as he ran but fortunately eluded the vigilence of the bear by
secreting himself very securely in the bushes untill Drewyer finally
killed it by a shot in the head; the shot indeed that will conquer the
farocity of those tremendious anamals.- in the course of the day we
passed 9 Islands all of them small and most of them containing some
timber.
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