Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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[Lewis, May 23, 1805]
Thursday May 23rd 1805.
Set out early this morning, the frost was severe last night, the ice
appeared along the edge of the water, water also freized on the oars.
at the distance of one mile passed the entrance of a creek 15 yds. wide
on Stard. side, this we call Teapot Creek, it affords no water at it's
mouth but has runing water at some small distance above, this I beleive
to be the case with many of those creekes which we have passed since we
entered this hilley country, the water is absorbed by the earth near
the river and of course appear dry; they afford but little water at any
rate, and that is so strongly impregnated with these salts that it is
unfit for uce; all the wild anamals appear fond of this water; I have
tryed it by way of experiment & find it moderately pergative, but
painfull to the intestens in it's opperation. this creek runs directly
towards some low mountains which lye N. W. of it and appear to be about
30 mes. distant, perhaps it heads in them. This range of mountains
appear to be about 70 miles long runing from E to W. having their
Eastern extremity about 30 mes. distant in a northwardly direction from
pot Island.- also passed two small creeks on Lard. and two others on
Stard. all inconsiderable and dry at their entrances. just above the
entrance of Teapot Creek on the stard. there is a large assemblage of
the burrows of the Burrowing Squirrel they generally seelect a south or
a south Easterly exposure for their residence, and never visit the
brooks or river for water; I am astonished how this anamal exists as it
dose without water, particularly in a country like this where there is
scarcely any rain during Yi of the year and more rarely any due; yet we
have sometimes found their villages at the distance of five or six
miles from any water, and they are never found out of the limits of the
ground which their burrows occupy; in the Autumn when the hard frosts
commence they close their burrows and do not venture out again untill
spring, indeed some of them appear to be yet in winter quarters. passed
3 Islands the two first covered with tall cottonwood timber and the
last with willows only. river more rappid, & the country much the same
as yesterday. some spruce pine of small size appears among the pitch
pine, and reather more rock than usual on the face of the hills. The
musquetoes troublesome this evening, a circumstance I did not expect
from the temperature of the morning. The Gees begin to lose the
feathers of their wings and are unable to fly. Capt Clark walked on
shore and killed 4 deer and an Elk. We killed a large fat brown bear
which took the water after being wounded and was carried under some
driftwood where he sunk and we were unable to get him. Saw but few
buffaloe today, but a great number of Elk, deer, some antelopes and 5
bear. The wild rose which is now in blume are very abundant, they
appear to differ but little from those common to the Atlantic States,
the leaves of the bushes and the bush itself appear to be of somewhat
smaller size.
[Clark, May 23, 1805]
May 23rd Thursday 1805
a Severe frost last night, the Thrmotr. Stood at the freesing point
this morning i e 32 a 0. wind S W. the water freeses on the oars. Ice
on the edge of the river we Set out at an early hour and passed the
mouth a Creek at 1 mile on the Stard. Side which heads in a mountain N
W of its mouth 30 or _____ miles, the Countrey on each Side is as
passed yesterday passed 2 Small Creeks on the Stard & 2 on the Lard.
Side to day. a mountain which appears to be 60 or 70 miles long bearing
E. & W is about 25 miles distant from this river on the Stard Side
Notherley of Pot Island I walked on Shore and killed 4 deer & an Elk, &
a beaver in the evening we killed a large fat Bear, which we
unfortunately lost in the river, after being Shot took the water & was
Carried under a drift passed in course of this day three Islands, two
of them Covered with tall timber & a 3rd with willows
The after part of this day was worm & the Misquitors troublesome. Saw
but five Buffalow a number of Elk & Deer & 5 bear & 2 Antilopes to day.
the river beginning to rise, and Current more rapid than yesterday, in
maney places I saw Spruces on the hills Sides Stard. this evening.
[Lewis, May 24, 1805]
Friday May 24th 1805.
The water standing in the vessels freized during the night 1/8 of an
inch thick, ice also appears along the verge of the river. the folage
of some of the cottonwood trees have been entirely distroyed by the
frost and are again puting forth other buds. the high country in which
we are at present and have been passing for some days I take to be a
continuation of what the Indians as well as the French Engages call the
Black hills. This tract of country so called consists of a collection
of high broken and irregular hills and short chain of mountains
sometimes 120 miles in width and again becomeing much narrower, but
always much higher than the country on either side; they commence about
the head of the Kanzas river and to the West of that river near the
Arkansas, from whence they take their course a little to the W. of N.
W. approaching the rockey Mountains obliquely, passing the river platte
above the forks and intercepting the Yellowstone river near the big
bend and passing the Missouri at this place and probably continuing to
swell the country as far North as the Saskashawan river tho they are
lower here than they are discribed to the Sth. and may therefore
probably terminate before they reach the Suskashawan. the black hills
in their course nothwardly appear to approach more nearly to the Rocky
Mountains.
We set out at an early hour this morning and proceed on principally by
the chord untill about 9 A.M. when a fine breeze sprung up from the S.
E. and enabled us though the ballance of the day to employ our sails to
advantage; we proceed at a pretty good pace notwithstanding the courant
of the river was very strong. we passed two large and four small
Islands; also several streams on either side; the first of these is a
large Creek or small river which disinboged on the Stard. side about
11/2 miles above our encampment of last evening, it is 30 yards wide
and contains some water. the bed is gravley and intermixed with some
stone, it takes its rise in the mountains which are situated in a
Northwardly direction from its entrance, distant about 30 miles. the
air is so pure in this open country that mountains and other elivated
objects appear much nearer than they really are; these mountains do not
appear to be further than 15 m. we sent a man up this creek to explore
the country he returned late in the evening and informed that he had
proceeded ten miles directly towards these mountains and that he did
not think himself by any mean half way these mountains are rockey and
covered with some scattering pine. This stream we call North Mountain
creek. the next stream in order is a creek which falls in on Lard. 21/2
miles higher; this is 15 yds. wide no water; a large village of the
burrowing or barking squirrels on the Stard. side opposite it's
entrance, hence the name Little dog Ck. that being the name by which
the French Engages call this anamal. at three miles and at 10 ms. from
hence still ascending 2 Small creek fall in on the Stard. side, no
water. 51/2 miles higher a small river falls in on Lard. side this we
called South Mountain creek as from it's direction it appeared to take
it's rise in a range of Mountains lying in a S. Westerly direction from
it's entrance distant 50 or 60 m.; this creek is 40 yards wide and
discharges a handsome stream of water. it's bed is rockey with gravel
and sand, the banks high and country broken it's bottom narrow and no
timber. The country high and broken, a considerable portion of black
rock and brown sandy rock appear in the faces of the hills; the tops of
the hills covered with scattering pine spruce and dwarf cedar; the soil
poor and sterile, sandy near the tops of the hills, the whole producing
but little grass; the narrow bottoms of the Missouri producing little
else but Hysop or southern wood and the pulpy leafed thorn. Capt. Clark
walked on shore this evening and killed a buffaloe cow, we left 2
Canoes and six men to dress the Cow and bring on the meat, they did not
overtake us this evening. game is becoming more scarce, particularly
beaver, of which we have seen but few for several days the beaver
appears to keep pace with the timber as it declines in quantity they
also become more scarce.
[Clark, May 24, 1805]
May 24th Friday 1805
a Cold night the water in the Small vestles frosed 1/8 of an inch
thick, and the thermometer Stood this morning at the freesing point. we
Set out at an early hour and proceeded on, at 9 oClock we had a Breeze
from the S E which Continued all day. This Breeze afforded us good
Sailing, the river rising fast Current verry rapid. passed Several
Small Islands, two large & two Small Creeks, the 1st of those Creeks or
Small rivers 11/2 m. above our Camp is 30 yards wide and Contains water
and appears to take its rise in the North Mountns. which is Situated in
a northerley detection about 20 miles distant. 21/2 m. higher a Creek
falls in on the Lard. Side, opposit a large village of Barking
Squirels. 3 miles Still higher a Small Creek falls in on the Stard. 13
miles higher up a Small river falls in on the Lard Side which is 40
yards wide and has running water. This Stream appears to take its rise
in the South Mountains which is Situated in a Southerly direction 30 or
40 miles distant. I walked on the high countrey on the Stard. Side
found it broken & Dry Some pine, Spruce & Dwarf Cedar on the hill
sides, I Sent one man 10 mile out he reports a Similarity of Countrey
back I killed a fat buffalow a Short distance below the place we dined
2 Canoes & 6 men we left to get the meat did not join us this evening.
we Camped on the Lard point. the Cotton wood in this point is beginning
to put out a Second bud, the first being killed by the frost
[Lewis, May 25, 1805]
Saturday May 25th 1805.
The Two canoes which we left behind yesterday to bring on the meat did
not arrive this morning untill 8 A M. at which time we set out; the
wind being against us we did not proceed with so much ease or
expedition as yesterday, we imployed the toe line principally which the
banks favored the uce off; the courant strong particularly arround the
points against which the courant happened to set, and at the entrances
of the little gullies from the hills, those rivulets having brought
down considerable quantities of stone and deposited it at their
entrances forming partial barriers to the water of the river to the
distance of 40 or 50 feet from the shore, arround these the water run
with great violence, and compelled us in some instances to double our
force in order to get a perorogue or canoe by them. as we ascended the
river today I saw several gangs of the bighorned Anamals on the face of
the steep bluffs and clifts on the Stard. side and sent drewyer to kill
one which he accomplished; Capt. Clark and Bratton who were on shore
each killed one of these anamals this evening. The head and horns of
the male which Drewyer killed weighed 27 lbs. it was somewhat larger
than the male of the common deer, the boddy reather thicker deeper and
not so long in proportion to it's hight as the common deer; the head
and horns are remakably large compared with the other part of the
anamal; the whole form is much more delicate than that of the common
goat, and there is a greater disparity in the size of the male and
female than between those of either the deer or goat. the eye is large
and prominant, the puple of a deep sea green and small, the iris of a
silvery colour much like the common sheep; the bone above the eye is
remarkably prominant; the head nostrils and division of the upper lip
are precisely in form like the sheep. there legs resemble the sheep
more than any other animal with which I am acquainted tho they are more
delicately formed, like the sheep they stand forward in the knee and
the lower joint of the foreleg is smallest where it joins the knee, the
hoof is black & large in proportion, is divided, very open and roundly
pointed at the toe, like the sheep; is much hollowed and sharp on the
under edge like the Scotch goat, has two small hoofs behind each foot
below the ankle as the goat sheep and deer have. the belley, inside of
the legs, and the extremity of the rump and butocks for about two
inches arround the but of the tale, are white, as is also the tale
excet just at it's extremity on the upper side which is of a dark
brown. the tail is about three inches in length covered with short
hair, or at least not longer than that of the boddy; the outher parts
of the anamal are of a duskey brown or reather a leadcoloured light
brown; the anamal is now sheding it's winter coat which is thick not
quite as long as that of the deer and appears to be intermixed with a
considerable quantity of a fine fur which lyes next to the skin &
conceald by the coarcer hear; the shape of the hair itself is celindric
as that of the antelope is but is smaller shorter, and not compressed
or flattened as that of the deer's winter coat is, I believe this
anamal only sheds it's hair once a year. it has eight fore teeth in the
under jaw and no canine teeth. The horns are lagest at their base, and
occupy the crown of the head almost entirely. they are compressed, bent
backwards and lunated; the surface swelling into wavy rings which
incircleing the horn continue to succeed each other from the base to
the extremity and becoming less elivated and more distant as they
recede from the head. the horn for about two thirds of it's length is
filled with a porus bone which is united with the frontal bone. I
obtained the bones of the upper part of the head of this animal at the
big bone lick. the horns of the female are small, but are also compress
bent backwards and incircled with a succession of wavy rings. the horn
is of a light brown colour; when dressed it is almost white extreemly
transparent and very elastic. this horn is used by the natives in
constructing their bows; I have no doubt but it would eligant and
ucefull hair combs, and might probably answer as many valuable purposes
to civilized man, as it dose to the savages, who form their watercups
spoons and platters of it. the females have already brought forth their
young indeed from the size of the young I suppose that they produce
them early in March. they have from one to two at a birth. they feed on
grass but principally on the arromatic herbs which grow on the clifts
and inaccessable hights which they usually frequent. the places they
gerally celect to lodg is the cranies or cevices of the rocks in the
faces of inacessable precepices, where the wolf nor bear can reach them
and where indeed man himself would in many instancies find a similar
deficiency; yet these anamals bound from rock to rock and stand
apparently in the most careless manner on the sides of precipices of
many hundred feet. they are very shye and are quick of both sent and
sight.
At the distance of two 3/4 miles above our encampment of last evening
we passed a Creek 20 yard wide affording no runing water, we also
passed 7 Islands in the course of the day. The Country on either hand
is high broken and rockey; the rock is either soft brown sand stone
covered with a thin strata of limestone, or a hard black rugged
grannite, both usually in horizontal stratas and the Sandy rock
overlaying the other.- Salts and quarts still appear, some coal and
pumice stone also appear; the river bottoms are narrow and afford
scarcely any timber. the bars of the river are composed principally of
gravel, but little pine on the hills. We saw a Pole-cats this evening
it is the first we have seen for many days. buffalow are now scarce and
I begin to fear our harvest of white puddings are at an end.
[Clark, May 25, 1805]
May 25th Satturday 1805"
The two Canoes left for meat yesterday did not joint us untill 8 oClock
this morning at which time we Set out, the morning Cool & pleasent wind
a head all day from the S. W. we pass a Creek on the Lard. Side about
20 yards wide, which does not run, we also passd 7 Islands, I walked on
Shore and killed a female Ibex or big horn animal in my absence Drewyer
& Bratten killed two others, this animale is a species peculiar to this
upper part of the Missouri, the head and horns of the male which
Drewyer killed to day weighed 27 lbs it was Somewhat larger than the
Mail of the Common Deer;) The body reather thicker deeper and not So
long in proportion to its hight as the common Deer; the head and horns
of the male are remarkably large Compared with the other parts of the
animal; the whole form is much more delicate than that of the common
goat, and there is a greater disparity in the Size of the mail and
female than between those of either the deer or goat. the eye is large
and prominant, the puple of a deep Sea green and Small, the iris of a
Silvery Colour much like the common Sheep; the bone above the Eye is
remarkably prominant; the head nostrils and division of the upper lip
are precisely in form like the Sheep. their legs resemble the Sheep
more than any other animal with which I am acquainted tho they are more
delicately formed, like the Sheep they stand foward in the Knee and the
lower joint of the fore leg is Smallest where it joins the Knee, the
hoof is black and large in perpotion, is divided, very open and roundly
pointed at the toe; like the Sheep; is much hollowed and Sharp on the
under edge like the Scotch goat, has two Small Hoofs behind each foot
below the ankle as the goat Sheep and Deer have. the belley, iner Side
of the legs, and the extremity of the rump and buttocks for about two
inches 1/2 around the but of the tail, are white, as is also the tail
except just at its extremity on the upper Side which is of a dark
brown. the tail is about 3 inches in length covered with Short hair, or
at least not longer than that of the boddy; the outer part of the
animal are of a duskey brown or reather a lead coloured light brown;
the animal is now Sheding its winter coat which is thick not quite as
long as that of the Deer and appears to be inter mixt with a
considerable quantity of fine fur which lies next to the Skin and
concealed by the Coarcer hair; the Shape of the hair itself is
cylindric as that of the Antilope is, but is Smaller, Shorter and not
Compressed or flattened as that of the deers winter Coat is. I believe
this animal only Sheds it's hair once a year. it has Eight fore teeth
in the underjaw and no canine teeth. The Horns are large at their base,
and occupy the Crown of the head almost entirely, they are compressed,
bent backwards and lunated; the Surface Swelling into wavey rings which
incircleing the horn continue to Succeed each other from the base to
the extremity and becomeing less elivated and more distant as they
receed from the head. The horn for about two thirds of its length is
filled with a porus bone which is united with the frontal bone (Capt.
Lewis obtained the bones of the upper part of the head of this Animal
at the big Bone Lick in the State of Kentucky which I Saw and find to
be the Same in every respect with those of the Missouri and the Rockey
Mountains) the horns of the female are Small, but are also compressed
and bent backwards and incircled with a Succession of wavy rings. the
horn is of a light brown Colour; when Dressed it is almost white
extreamly transparent and very elastic. this horn is used by the nativs
in constructing their bows; I have no doubt of it's elegance and
usefullness in hair Combs, and might probably answer as maney valuable
purpoces to civilized man, as it does to the native indians, who form
their water Cups, Spoons and platters of it. the females have already
brought forth their young indeed from the Size of the young, I Suppose
that they produce them early in March. they have from one to two at a
birth. they feed on grass, but principally on the arramatic herbs which
grow on the Clifts and inaccessable hights which they frequent most
commonly, and the places they generally collect to lodge is the Cranies
or Cevices of the rocks in the face of inaccessable precepices, where
the wolf nor Bear Can reach them, and where indeed man himself would in
maney instances find a Similar deficiency; yet those animals bound from
rock to rock and Stand apparently in the most Careless manner on the
Side of precipices of maney hundred feet. they are very Shy and quick
of both Sent and Sight. The flesh of this animal is dark and I think
inferior to the flesh of the Common Deer, and Superior to the antilope
of the Missouri and the Columbian Plains-. In my walk of this day I saw
mountts. on either side of the river at no great distance, those
mountains appeared to be detached, and not ranges as laid down by the
Minetarrees, I also think I saw a range of high mounts. at a great
distance to the S S W. but am not certain as the horozon was not clear
enough to view it with Certainty. The country on either side is high
broken and rockey a dark brown hard rugid Stone intermixed with a Soft
white Sand Stone. the hills contain Coal or cabonated wood as below and
Some Scattering pumistone. the Sides of the river is bordered with
coars gravel, which in maney places have washed either together or down
Small brooks and forms bars at Some distance in the water, around which
the current passes with great valocity. the bottoms between hills and
river are narrow and Contain Scercely any timber. The appearence of
Salts, and bitumun Still Continue. we Saw a polecat to day being the
first which we have Seen for Some time past. The Air of this quarter is
pure and helthy. the water of the Missouri well tasted not quite So
muddy as it is below, not withstanding the last rains has raised the
river a little it is less muddy than it was before the rain.
[Lewis, May 26, 1805]
Sunday May 26th 1805.
Set out at an early hour and proceeded principally by the toe line,
using the oars mearly to pass the river in order to take advantage of
the shores. scarcely any bottoms to the river; the hills high and
juting in on both sides, to the river in many places. the stone
tumbleing from these clifts and brought down by the rivulets as
mentioned yesterday became more troublesome today. the black rock has
given place to a very soft sandstone which appears to be washed away
fast by the river, above this and towards the summits of the hills a
hard freestone of a brownish yellow colour shews itself in several
stratas of unequal thicknesses frequently overlain or incrusted by a
very thin strata of limestone which appears to be formed of concreted
shells. Capt. Clark walked on shore this morning and ascended to the
summit of the river hills he informed me on his return that he had seen
mountains on both sides of the river runing nearly parrallel with it
and at no great distance; also an irregular range of mountains on lard.
about 50 mes. distant, the extremities of which boar W and N. W. from
his station. he also saw in the course of his walk, some Elk, several
herds of the Big horn, and the large hare; the latter is common to
every part of this open country. scarcely any timber to be seen except
the few scattering pine and spruce which crown the high hills, or in
some instances grow along their sides. In the after part of the day I
also walked out and ascended the river hills which I found sufficiently
fortiegueing. on arriving to the summit one of the highest points in
the neighbourhood I thought myself well repaid for any labour; as from
this point I beheld the Rocky Mountains for the first time, I could
only discover a few of the most elivated points above the horizon, the
most remarkable of which by my pocket compass I found bore N. 65° W.
being a little to the N. of the N. W. extremity of the range of broken
mountains seen this morning by Capt. C. these points of the Rocky
Mountains were covered with snow and the sun shone on it in such manner
as to give me the most plain and satisfactory view. while I viewed
these mountains I felt a secret pleasure in finding myself so near the
head of the heretofore conceived boundless Missouri; but when I
reflected on the difficulties which this snowey barrier would most
probably throw in my way to the Pacific, and the sufferings and
hardships of myself and party in them, it in some measure
counterballanced the joy I had felt in the first moments in which I
gazed on them; but as I have always held it a crime to anticipate evils
I will believe it a good comfortable road untill I am compelled to
beleive differently. saw a few Elk & bighorns at a distance on my
return to the river I passed a creek about 20 yds. wide near it's
entrance it had a handsome little stream of runing water; in this creek
I saw several softshelled Turtles which were the first that have been
seen this season; this I believe proceeded reather from the season than
from their non existence in the portion of the river from the Mandans
hither. on the Stard. shore I killed a fat buffaloe which was very
acceptable to us at this moment; the party came up to me late in the
evening and encamped for the night on the Lard. side. it was after dark
before we finished butchering the buffaloe, and on my return to camp I
trod within five inches of a rattle snake but being in motion I passed
before he could probably put himself in a striking attitude and
fortunately escaped his bite, I struck about at random with my
espontoon being directed in some measure by his nois untill I killed
him. Our hunters had killed two of the Bighorned Anamals since I had
left them. we also passed another creek a few miles below Turtle Creek
on the Stard. 30 yds in width which also had runing water bed rockey.-
late this evening we passed a very bad rappid which reached quite
across the river, the party had considerable difficulty in ascending it
altho they doubled their crews and used both the rope and the pole.
while they were passing this rappid a female Elk and it's fawn swam
down throught the waves which ran very high, hence the name of Elk
rappids which they instantly gave this place, these are the most
considerable rappids which we have yet seen on the missouri and in
short the only place where there has appeared to be a suddon decent.
opposite to these rappids there is a high bluff and a little above on
Lard. a small cottonwood bottom in which we found sufficient timber for
our fires and encampment. here I rejoined the party after dark. The
appearances of coal in the face of the bluffs, also of birnt hills,
pumice stone salt and quarts continue as yesterday. This is truly a
desert barren country and I feel myself still more convinced of it's
being a continuation of the black hills. we have continued every day to
pass more or less old stick lodges of the Indians in the timbered
points, there are two even in this little bottom where we lye.-
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125 |
126 |
127 |
128 |
129 |
130 |
131 |
132 |
133 |
134 |
135