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Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark

M >> Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark

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[Clark, May 16, 1805]
May 16th Thursday 1805 a fair morning our articles all out to Dry at 4
oClock we had every thing that was Saved dry and on bord, our loss is
Some medison, Powder, Seeds, & Several articles which Sunk, and maney
Spoiled had a medn. altitude which gave for Latd. _° _' _" N.- two of our
men fired at a pant hr a little below our Camp, this animale they say
was large, had Caught a Deer & eate it half & buried the ballance. a
fiew antilope Swam the river near our Camp two of them were Cought by
the party in the river. at half past 4 oClock we Set out and proceeded
on verry well ____ miles and incamped on the Std. Side the Countrey as
before hilley & broken verry Small proprotion of timber in the points,
Some little pine & Ceader in the hills

Buffalow & Deer is yet plenty on the river in the small timbered
bottoms Capt Lewis walked out on the Std. Side and killed a Cow & Calf
the calf was verry fine their bases. it is somewhat singular that the
lower part of these hills appear to be formed of a dark rich loam while
the upper region about 150 feet is formed of a whiteish brown sand, so
hard in many parts as to resemble stone; but little rock or stone of
any kind to be seen in these hills. the river is much narrower than
usual, the bed from 200 to 300 yards only and possessing a much larger
proportion of gravel than usual. a few scattering cottonwood trees are
the only timber near the river; the sandbars, and with them the willow
points have almost entirely disappeared. greater appearance than usual
of the saline incrustations of the banks and river hills. we passed two
creeks the one on Stard. side, and the other just below our camp on the
Lard. side; each of these creeks afford a small quantity of runing
water, of a brackish tast. the great number of large beds of streams
perfectly dry which we daily pass indicate a country but badly watered,
which I fear is the case with the country through which we have been
passing for the last fifteen or twenty days. Capt Clark walked on shore
this evening and killed an Elk; buffaloe are not so abundant as they
were some days past. the party with me killed a female brown bear, she
was but meagre, and appeared to have suckled young very recently. Capt.
Clark narrowly escaped being bitten by a rattlesnake in the course of
his walk, the party killed one this evening at our encampment, which he
informed me was similar to that he had seen; this snake is smaller than
those common to the middle Atlantic States, being about 2 feet 6 inches
long; it is of a yellowish brown colour on the back and sides,
variagated with one row of oval spots of a dark brown colour lying
transversely over the back from the neck to the tail, and two other
rows of small circular spots of the same colour which garnis the sides
along the edge of the scuta. it's bely contains 176 scuta on the belly
and 17 on the tale. Capt Clark informed me that he saw some coal which
had been brought down by the water of the last creek we passed; this
creek also throws out considerable quantities of Driftwood, though
there is no timber on it which can be perceived from the Missouri; we
called this stream rattlesnake creek. Capt Clark saw an Indian
fortifyed camp this evening, which appeared to have been recently
occupyed, from which we concluded it was probable that it had been
formed by a war party of the Menetares who left their vilage in March
last with a view to attack the blackfoot Indians in consequence of
their having killed some of their principal warriors the previous
autumn. we were roused late at night by the Sergt. of the guard, and
warned of the danger we were in from a large tree that had taken fire
and which leant immediately over our lodge. we had the loge removed,
and a few minutes after a large proportion of the top of the tree fell
on the place the lodge had stood; had we been a few minutes later we
should have been crushed to attoms. the wind blew so hard, that
notwithstanding the lodge was fifty paces distant from the fire it
sustained considerable injury from the burning coals which were thrown
on it; the party were much harrassed also by this fire which
communicated to a collection of fallen timber, and could not be
extinguished.

[Clark, May 17, 1805]
May 17th Friday 1805
a fine morning wind from the N W. mercury at 60° a 0. river falling a
little. we Set out at an early hour and proceeded on verry well by the
assistance of the Toe rope principally, the Countrey verry rugged &
hills high and the river washing the base on each Side, Great
appearance of the Salt Substance. a fiew Cotton trees is the only
timber which is Scattered in the bottoms & the hills contain a fiew
Pine & Cedar, which is Scattered. river much narrower than below from 2
to 300 yards wide, the bottoms muddey & hills rich earth except near
their topes- We passed 2 large Creeks to day one on the Starbd Side and
the other just below our camp on the Lard. Side each of those creeks
has a little running water near their mouthes which has a brackish
taste, I was nearly treading on a Small fierce rattle Snake different
from any I had ever Seen &c. one man the party killed another of the
Same kind. I walked on Shore after dinner & killed an Elk- the party in
my absence Killed a female Brown or yellow Bear which was meagre the
appearances of the Hills & Countrey is as before mentioned except a
greater appearance of the white appearance of Salts or tarter and Some
Coal which has been thrown out by the floods in the last Creek-
Buffalow & Deer is not plenty to day, Elk is yet to be Seen in
abundance we Camped in the upper part of a Small timbered bottom on the
Lard. Side in which I Saw a fortified Indian Camp, which I Suppose is
one of the Camps of a Mi ne tar re war party of about 15 men, that Set
out from their village in March last to war against the Blackfoot
Indians.

we were roused late at night and warned of the danger of fire from a
tree which had Cought and leaned over our Lodge, we had the lodge moved
Soon after the Dry limbs & top of the tree fell in the place the Lodge
Stood, the wind blew hard and the dry wood Cought & fire flew in every
direction, burnt our Lodge verry much from the Coals which fell on it
altho at Some distance in the plain, the whole party was much disturbed
by this fire which could not be extinguished &c

[Lewis, May 18, 1805]
Saturday May 18th 1805.
The wind blew hard this morning from the West. we were enabled to
employ our toe line the greater part of the day and therefore proceeded
on tolerably well. there are now but few sandbars, the river is narrow
and current gentle. the timber consists of a few cottonwood trees along
the verge of the river; the willow has in a great measure disappeared.
in the latter part of the day the hills widened, the bottoms became
larger, and contained more timber. we passed a creek on the Stard. side
about three oclock, which afforded no water; came too and encamped on
the Lard. side opposite to the lower point of a small Island, two miles
short of the extremity of the last course of this day. Capt Clark in
the course of his walk this evening killed four deer, two of which were
the black tailed or mule deer; the skins are now good, they have not
yet produced their young.- we saw a number of buffaloe, Elk, deer and
Antelopes.- the saline substance frequently mentioned continues to
appear as usual.-

[Clark, May 18, 1805]
May 18th Satturday 1805
A windey morning wind from the West we proceeded on verry well with the
assistance of the Toe Coard, river narrow but flew Sand bars, & current
jentle, but a few Cotton Trees Contained in the bottoms willow is not
common on the bears as usial Some little on the Sides of the river is
yet to be Seen, the after part of the day was Cloudy & at about 12
oClock it began to rain and continued moderately for about 11/2 hours,
not Sufficient to wet a man thro his clothes; this is the first rain
Since we Set out this Spring The hills widen and the bottoms Contain
more timber than for Several days past, we passed a Wisers Creek on the
Std. Side about 3 oClock and Camped on the Lard Side opposit the lower
point of a handsom little Island near the middle of the river. I walked
on Shore and killed four Deer, 2 common & 2 mule deer, one of which had
3 fauns, 2 others had 2 each, those deer are fat, & their Skins
tolerable good, which are now in demand with us for clothes Such as
Legins & Mockersons, I Saw great numbers of Buffalows & Elk; Some of
the party Shoot & Catch beaver every day & night

[Lewis, May 19, 1805]
Sunday May 19th 1805.
The last night was disagreeably could; we were unable to set out untill
8 oclock A.M. in consequence of a heavy fogg, which obscured the river
in such a manner that we could not see our way; this is the first we
have experienced in any thing like so great a degree; there was also a
fall of due last evening, which is the second we have experienced since
we have entered this extensive open country. at eight we set out and
proceeded as yesterday by means of the cord principally, the hills are
high and the country similar to that of yesterday. Capt Clark walked on
shore with two of the hunters and killed a brown bear; notwithstanding
that it was shot through the heart it ran at it's usual pace near a
quarter of a mile before it fell. one of the party wounded a beaver,
and my dog as usual swam in to catch it; the beaver bit him through the
hind leg and cut the artery; it was with great difficulty that I could
stop the blood; I fear it will yet prove fatal to him. on Capt. Clark's
return he informed me that he had from the top of one of the adjacent
hights discovered the entrance of a large stream which discharged
itself into the Missouri on the Lard. side distant 6 or seven miles;
from the same place he also saw a range of Mountains, bearing W.
distant 40 or 50 miles; they appeared to proceed in a S. S. W.
direction; the N. N. E. extremity of these mountains appeared abrupt.

This afternoon the river was croked, rappid and containing more sawyers
than we have seen in the same space since we left the entrance of the
river Platte. Capt. C. in the course of his walk killed three deer and
a beaver, I also walked on shore this evening a few miles and killed an
Elk, a buck, and a beaver. the party killed and caught 4 other beaver &
3 deer.

The men complain much of sore eyes and imposthumes.

[Clark, May 19, 1805]
May 19th Sunday 1805
a verry cold night, the murckery Stood at 38 at 8 oClock this morning,
a heavy dew which is the 2d I have Seen this Spring. The fog (which was
the first) was So thick this morning that we could not Set out untill
the Sun was about 2 hours up, at which time a Small breeze Sprung up
from the E. which Cleared off the fog & we proceeded on by means of the
Cord The hills are high & rugged the Countrey as yesterday- I walked on
Shore with two men we killed a white or grey bear; not withstanding
that it was Shot through the heart it ran at it's usial pace near a
quarter of a mile before it fell. Capt Lewis's dog was badly bitten by
a wounded beaver and was near bleading to death-. after killing the
Bear I continued my walk alone, & killed 3 Deer & a Beaver; finding
that the Perogues were below I assended the highest hill I could See,
from the top of which I Saw the mouth of M. Shell R & the meanderings
of the Missouri for a long distance. I also Saw a high mountain in a
westerley direction, bearing S. S W. about 40 or 50 miles distant, in
the evening the river was verry Crooked and much more rapid &
Containing more Sawyers than any which we have passed above the River
Platte Capt Lewis walked on Shore this after noon & killed an Elk, Buck
& a Beaver, I kiled three Deer at dinner, the hunters killed three
other Deer to day Several beaver also killed. We Camped on the Stard
Side in a bottom of Small Cotton wood

[Lewis, May 20, 1805]
Monday May 20th 1805
Set out at an early hour as usual, the banks being favourable and water
strong we employed the toe rope principally; river narrow and croked;
country much as that of yesterday; immence number of the prickley pears
in the plains and on the hills. At the distance of 21/4 miles passed
the entrance of a large Creek, affording but little water; this stream
we named Blowing Fly Creek, from the immence quantities of those
insects found in this neighbourhood, they infest our meat while
roasting or boiling, and we are obliged to brush them off our provision
as we eat. At 11 A.M. we arrived at the entrance of a handsome bold
river which discharges itself into the Missouri on the Lard. side; this
stream we take to be that called by the Minnetares the ____ or
Muscleshell River; if it be the same, of which I entertain but little
doubt, it takes it's rise, by their information in the 1st Chain of the
Rocky Mountains at no great distance from the Yellow stone river, from
whence in it's course to this place it passes through a high and broken
country pretty well timbered, particularly on it's borders, and
intersperced with handsome fertile plains and medows. but from the
circumstance of the same Indians informing us that we should find a
well timbered country in the neighbourhood of it's mouth, I am induced
to beleive that the timbered country of which they speak is similar to
that we have passed for a day or two, or that in our view above, which
consists of nothing more than a few scattering small scrubby pine and
dwarf cedar on the summits of some of the highest hills nine tenths of
the country being wholy destitute of timber of any kind, covered with a
short grass, arromatic herbs and the prickley pear; the river bottom
however, so far as we have explored it or 8 m. are well stocked with
Cottonwood timber of tollerable size, & lands of excellent quality. We
halted at thentrance of the river on the point formed by it's junction
with the Missouri determining to spend the day, make the necessary
observations and send out some hunters to explore the country. The
Muscle Shell river falls into the Missouri 2270 miles above it's mouth,
and is 110 yards in width, it affords much more water than streams of
it's width generally do below, it's courant is by no means rappid, and
from appearances it might be navigated with canoes a considerable
distance; it's bed is coarse sand and gravel principally with an
occasion mixture of black mud; it's banks abbrupt and about 12 feet
high yet never appear to overflow; the waters of this river is of a
greenish yellow cast, much more transparent than the Missouri, which
last is also much more transparent than below but still retains it's
whiteish hue and a proportion of it's sedement. the Missouri opposite
to this point is deep, gentle in it's courant, and 222 yards in width.
The hunters returned this evening and informed us that the country
continued much the same in appearance as that we saw where we were or
broken, and that about five miles abe the mouth of shell river a
handsome river of about fifty yards in width discharged itself into the
shell river on the Stard. or upper side; this stream we called
Sah-ca-gar me-ah or bird woman's River, after our interpreter the Snake
woman. Shields also found a bould spring or fountain issuing from the
foot of the Lard. hills about 4 miles up the Missouri; a fountain in
this plain country is a great novelty; I have not seen a bould fountain
of pure water except one since I left the Mandans; there a number of
small ones but all without exception are impregnated with the salts
which abound in this country, and with which I believe the Missoury
itself considerably impregnated but to us in the habit of useing it not
perceptible; the exception I make is a very fine fountain under the
bluffs on the Lard. side of the Missouri and at a distance from the
river about five miles below the entrance of the yellowstone River. The
sands of the Missouri are not so abundant as they have been for some
time past, being confined to the points only; the bed of the river
principally mud and still too deep to use the seting pole. Capt. Clark
walked out today and killed two deer and an Elk, the hunters killed 4
deer and elk and a buffaloe. I saw two large Owls with remarkable long
feathers on the sides of the head which resembled ears; I take them to
be the large hooting owl tho they are somewhat larger and their colours
brighter than those common to the J States.-

[Clark, May 20, 1805]
May 20th Monday 1805
a fine morning wind from the N E. river falling a little We Set out at
7 oClock and proceeded on verry well as usial by the assistance of the
Cord passed Some verry Swift water, river narrow and Crooked, at 11
oClock arrived at the mouth of Shell river on the Lard Side and formed
a Camp for the present. haveing passed a large Creek about 4 miles
below on the Ld Side which we call Blowing fly Creek from the emence
quantites of those insects which geather on our meat in Such numbers
that we are oblige to brush them off what we eate.

muscle Shell River falls in on Lard Side 2270 miles up Contains a
greater perportion of water than Rivers of its Size below, I measured
it and find it to be 110 yards wide, the water of a Greenish yellow
Colour, and appers to be navagable for Small Craft, The Minetarras
inform us that this river heads in the 1st of the rockey Mountains &
passes through a broken Countrey. its head at no great distance from
the Yellow Stone River The Countrey about this river as described
yesterday we took the Meredian altitude 59° 50' 0" back observation and
found the Latd. to be 47° 0' 24"

The Missouri at the mouth of Shell River is 222 yards wide with a Smoth
Current the Missouri water is not So muddey as below, but retains
nearly its usial Cholour, and the Sands principally Confined to the
points I killed two Deer & an Elk, the hunters killed an Elk & Several
deer mearly for their Skins to make Leagins,- Sent men out in every
derection, the Countrey generally verry broken Some leavel plains up
the Shell river The bottoms of the Shell river is well timbered as also
a Small river which falls into that river on the upper Side 5 miles
above its mouth. The hills on the Lard. Contain Scattering Pine & Cedar.

[Lewis, May 21, 1805]
Tuesday May 21st 1805
A delightfull morning set out at an early hour and proceeded on very
well, imployed the chord principally; the shores are abbrupt and bould
and composed of a black and yellow clay; see no extensive collection of
pure sand, the bars are composed black mud and a small poportion of
fine sand; the courant still pretty strong. the Missouri in it's course
downward makes a suddon and extensive bend to receive the Muscle shell
river, the point of country thus formed tho high is still much lower
than that surrounding it, thus forming a valley of wavey country which
extends itself for a great distance in a Northerly direction; the soil
is fertile, produces a fine turf of low grass and some herbs, also
immence quantities of the Prickley pear, without a stick of timber of
any discription. the country on the South side is high broken and
crowned with some scrubby pines and dwarf cedar; the leaf of this pine
is much longer than the common pitch or red pine of Virginia, the cone
is also longer and slimer, and the imbrications wider and thicker, and
the whole frequently covered with rosin. Mineral appearances as usual.
the growse or praire hen are now less abundant on the river than they
were below; perhaps they betake themselves to the open plains at a
distance from the river at this season.-

The wind which was moderate all the fore part of the day continued to
encrease in the evening, and about dark veered about to N. W. and blew
a storm all night, in short we found ourselves so invelloped with
clouds of dust and sand that we could neither cook, eat, nor sleep; and
were finally compelled to remove our lodge about eight oClock at night
to the foot of an adjacent hill where we were covered in some measure
from the wind by the hills. several loose articles blown over board and
lost. our first station was on a bar on Stard. opposite the lower point
of a small Island, which we now called windy Island. the bends of the
river are short and suddon, the points covered with some cottonwood,
larger willow, or broadleafed willow with an abundance of the wild rose
and some small honeysuckle bushes constitute the undergrowth, the
redwood is also found in small quantities. Capt. C walked on shore
today and killed 2 Elk; the party killed several deer and a buffaloe
Cow.-

[Clark, May 21, 1805]
May 21st Tuesday 1805.
a butifull morning, wind from the West, river falling a little, we Set
out at an early hour and proceed on in the usial way by the assistance
of the Coard principally, but little use of the Oares & less with the
poles as the bottoms are muddey, we Se no great bodies of pure Sand the
bars & points are rich mud mixed with fine Sand. I walked on Shore
Stard. Side the river makes a great bend to the South to receve Shell
River, the boint for many miles out in a Northerley direction is a rich
uneaven valley Contain Some Short grass, and Prickley pears without
timber The Countrey on the South Side of the Missouri is high, Soil and
mineral appearance as usial, more Scattering pine & Cedar on the hills,
the wind which blew moderatly all the forepart of the day increassd and
about Dark Shifted to the N W. and Stormed all night, Several loose
articles were blown over board, our lodge & Camp which was on a Sand
bar on the Std. Side & opposite to the lower point of an Island we were
obliged to move under the hills, the dust & Sand blew in clouds. The
bends of the river are Short and points Covered with Cotton wood under
groth wild rose bushes I killed 2 Elk to day Several Deer Killd. & a
Buffalow Cow.

[Lewis, May 22, 1805]
Wednesday May 22cd 1805.
The wind blew so violently this morning that we did not think it
prudent to set out untill it had in some measure abated; this did not
happen untill 10 A.M. when we proceeded principally by the toe lines
the bottoms somewhat wider than usual, the lands fertile or apparently
so tho the short grass and the scantey proportion of it on the hills
would indicate no great fertility. passed Windy Island on Lard. at 1 M.
51/2 miles above passed a large Island in a bend on Stard. side, and
three miles further on the same side passed the entrance of grows Creek
20 yds wide, affords but little water. this creek we named from seeing
a number of the pointed tail praire hen near it's mouth, these are the
fist we have seen in such numbers for some days. I walked on shore this
morning the country is not so broken as yesterday tho still high and
roling or wavy; the hills on Lard. side possess more pine than usual;
some also on the Stard. hills. Salts and other mineral appearances as
usual. the river continues about the same width or from 200 to 250 yds.
wide, fewer sandbars and the courant more gentle and regular; game not
so abundant as below the Muscle Shell river. I killed a deer in the
course of my walk today. Capt. C. also walked out this evening and took
a view of the country from a conspicuous point and found it the same as
has been discribed. we have caught but few fish since we left the
Mandans, they do not bite freely, what we took were the white cat of 2
to 5 lbs. I presume that fish are scarce in this part of the river. We
encamped earlyer this evening than usual in order render the oil of a
bear which we killed. I do not believe that the Black bear common to
the lower part of this river and the Atlantic States, exists in this
quarter; we have neither seen one of them nor their tracks which would
be easily distinguished by it's shortness of tallons when compared with
the brown grizly or white bear. I believe that it is the same species
or family of bears which assumes all those colours at different ages
and seasons of the year.

[Clark, May 22, 1805]
May 22nd Wednesday 1805
The wind Continued to blow So violently hard we did not think it
prudent to Set out untill it luled a little, about 10 oClock we Set out
the morning Cold, passed a Small Island in the bend to the Lard Side, &
proceeded on at 5 miles higher passed a Island in a bend to the Stard
Side, and a Creek a Short distance above on the Stard Side 20 yds. w
Capt Lewis walked out before dinner & Killed a Deer, I walked out after
dinner and assended & but a few miles to view the Countrey, which I
found roleing & of a verry rich Stickey Soil produceing but little
vegitation of any kind except the prickley-piar, but little grass &
that verry low. a great deal of Scattering Pine on the Lard Side & Some
fur on the Stard. Sd. The mineral productions as described in the
proceeding days, game not So abundant as below, the river Continue
about the Same width, fewer Sand bars & current more regular, river
falls about an inch a day We camped on the Stard. Side, earlier than we
intend on account of Saveing the oil of a bear which the party killed
late this afternoon.

Maney of the Creeks which appear to have no water near ther mouths have
Streams of running water higher up which rise & waste in the Sand or
gravel. the water of those Creeks are So much impregnated with the Salt
Substance that it cannot be Drank with pleasure.

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