Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Boils and imposthumes have been very common with the party Bratton is
now unable to work with one on his hand; soar eyes continue also to be
common to all of us in a greater or less degree. for the imposthume I
use emmolient poltices, and for soar eyes a solution of white vitriol
and the sugar of lead in the proportion of 2 grs. of the former and one
of the latter to each ounce of water.
[Clark, May 10, 1805]
May the 10th Friday 1805
river fell 3/4 of an inch last night, wind from the N. W, we proceeded
on but a short distance e'r'e the wind became So violent we could not
proceed came to on the Lard. Side in a Short bend, the wind Continued
all day Several times in the course of the day We had some fiew drops
of rain from verry black Clouds, no thunder or lightning latterly, Soon
after we landed a Dog came to us from the opposit Side, which induced a
belief that we had not passd. the Assinniboin Indians, parties wer Sent
on the hills in different derections to examine but Saw no tents or
fresh Sign. examined the arms &c. of the party found all in good order.
Three mule deer, two Buffalow & 5 beaver killed, 3 of the mountain ram
Seen.
[Lewis, May 11, 1805]
Saturday May 11th 1805. Set out this morning at an early hour, the
courant strong; and river very crooked; the banks are falling in very
fast; I sometimes wonder that some of our canoes or perogues are not
swallowed up by means of these immence masses of earth which are
eternally precipitating themselves into the river; we have had many
hair breadth escapes from them but providence seems so to have ordered
it that we have as yet sustained no loss in consequence of them. The
wind blue very hard the forepart of last night but abated toward
morning; it again arose in the after part of this day and retarded our
progress very much. the high lands are broken, the hills higher and
approach nearer the river, tho the soil of both hills and bottoms
appear equally as furtile as below; it consists of a black looking tome
with a moderate portion of sand; the hills and bluffs to the debth of
20 or thirty feet, seemed to be composed entirely of this loam; when
thrown in the water it desolves as readily as loaf sugar and
effervesses like marle. great appearance of quarts and mineral salts,
the latter appears both on the hills and bottoms, in the bottoms of the
gullies which make down from the hills it lies incrusting the earth to
the debth of 2 or 3 inches, and may with a fether be swept up and
collected in large quantities, I preserved several specimines of this
salts. the quarts appears most commonly in the faces of the bluffs. no
coal, burnt hills, or pumice stone. saw today some high hills on the
Stard. whose summits were covered with pine. Capt Clark went on shore
and visited them; he brought with him on his return som of the boughs
of this pine it is of the pitch kind but I think the leaves somewhat
longer than ours in Virginia. Capt C. also in his walk killed 2 Mule
deer a beaver and two buffaloe; these last he killed about 3 miles
above where we encamped this evening in the expectation that we would
reach that place, but we were unable to do so from the adverse winds
and other occurrences, and he came down and joined us about dark. there
is a dwarf cedar growing among the pine on the hills; it rises to the
hight thre sometimes 4 feet, but most generally spreads itself like a
vine along the surface of the earth, which it covers very closely,
puting out roots from the underside of the limbs; the leaf is finer and
more delicate than the common red ceader, it's fruit and smell are the
same with the red ceader. the tops of these hills which produce the
pine and cedar is of a different soil from that just described; it is a
light coloured poor sterile sandy soil, the base usually a yellow or
white clay; it produces scarcely any grass, some scattering tuffts of
sedge constitutes the greater part of it's grass. About 5 P.M. my
attention was struck by one of the Party runing at a distance towards
us and making signs and hollowing as if in distress, I ordered the
perogues to put too, and waited untill he arrived; I now found that it
was Bratton the man with the soar hand whom I had permitted to walk on
shore, he arrived so much out of breath that it was several minutes
before he could tell what had happened; at length he informed me that
in the woody bottom on the Lard. side about 11/2 below us he had shot a
brown bear which immediately turned on him and pursued him a
considerable distance but he had wounded it so badly that it could not
overtake him; I immediately turned out with seven of the party in quest
of this monster, we at length found his trale and persued him about a
mile by the blood through very thick brush of rosbushes and the large
leafed willow; we finally found him concealed in some very thick brush
and shot him through the skull with two balls; we proceeded dress him
as soon as possible, we found him in good order; it was a monstrous
beast, not quite so large as that we killed a few days past but in all
other rispects much the same the hair is remarkably long fine and rich
tho he appears parshally to have discharged his winter coat; we now
found that Bratton had shot him through the center of the lungs,
notwithstanding which he had pursued him near half a mile and had
returned more than double that distance and with his tallons had
prepared himself a bed in the earth of about 2 feet deep and five long
and was perfectly alive when we found him which could not have been
less than 2 hours after he received the wound; these bear being so hard
to die reather intimedates us all; I must confess that I do not like
the gentlemen and had reather fight two Indians than one bear; there is
no other chance to conquer them by a single shot but by shooting them
through the brains, and this becomes difficult in consequence of two
large muscles which cover the sides of the forehead and the sharp
projection of the center of the frontal bone, which is also of a pretty
good thickness. the flece and skin were as much as two men could
possibly carry. by the time we returned the sun had set and I
determined to remain here all night, and directed the cooks to render
the bear's oil and put it in the kegs which was done. there was about
eight gallons of it.
the wild Hysop grows here and in all the country through which we have
passed for many days past; tho from big Dry river to this place it has
been more abundant than below, and a smaller variety of it grows on the
hills, the leaves of which differ considerably being more deeply
indented near it's extremity. the buffaloe deer and Elk feed on this
herb in the winter season as they do also on the small willow of the
sandbars. there is another growth that begins now to make it's
appearance in the bottom lands and is becoming extreemly troublesome;
it is a shrub which rises to the hight of from two to four feet, much
branched, the bark of the trunk somewhat rough hard and of light grey
colour; the wood is firm and stif, the branches beset with a great
number of long, shap, strong, wooddy looking thorns; the leaf is about
3/4 or an inch long, and one 1/8 of an inch wide, it is obtuse,
absolutely entire, veinless fleshy and gibbose; has no perceptable
taste or smell, and no anamal appears to eat it. by way of designating
when I mention it hereafter I shall call it the fleshey leafed thorn
[Clark, May 11, 1805]
May the 11th Satturday 1805.
Wind hard fore part of last night the latter part verry Cold a white
frost this morning, the river riseing a little and verry Crooked the
high land is rugged and approaches nearer than below, the hills and
bluff exhibit more mineral quats & Salts than below, the gullies in
maney places are white, and their bottoms one, two & 3 Inches deep of
this mineral, no appearance of either burnt pumice Stone or Coal, the
Countrey hilley on both Sides of a rich black earth, which disolves
This kind of Countrey Continues of the Same quallity for maney miles on
either Side, we observed Some hills which appeared to be timbered, I
walked to this timber and found it to pitch pine & Dwarf Cedar, we
observe in every derection Buffalow, Elk, Antelopes & Mule deer
inumerable and So jintle that we Could approach near them with great
ease, I killed 2 Mule Deer for the benifit of their Skins for the
party, and about the place I expected the party would get to Camp I
killed 2 fat Bulls for theire use, in my absence they had killed a fine
fat Yellow bear below which detained them and they did not reach the
place I expected, but had Camped on the Lard. Side about 2 miles below
on my return to the party I killed a fat Beaver the wind blew verry
hard from the S. W. all the after part of this day which retarded our
progress verry much. river rose 2 In
[Lewis, May 12, 1805]
Sunday May 12th 1805.
Set out at an early hour, the weather clear and Calm; I walked on shore
this morning for the benifit of exersize which I much wanted, and also
to examine the country and it's productions, in these excurtions I most
generally went alone armed with my rifle and espontoon; thus equiped I
feel myself more than an equal match for a brown bear provided I get
him in open woods or near the water, but feel myself a little diffident
with respect to an attack in the open plains, I have therefore come to
a resolution to act on the defencive only, should I meet these
gentlemen in the open country. I ascended the hills and had a view of a
rough and broken country on both sides of the river; on the North side
the summits of the hills exhibit some scattering pine and cedar, on the
South side the pine has not yet commenced tho there is some cedar on
the face of the hills and in the little ravines. the choke cherry also
grows here in the hollows and at the heads of the gullies; the choke
Cherry has been in blume since the ninth inst. this growth has
freequently made it's appearance on the Missouri from the neighbourhood
of the Baldpated Prarie, to this place in the form of it's leaf colour
and appearance of it's bark, and general figure of it's growth it
resembles much the Morillar cherry,1 tho much smaller not generally
rising to a greater hight than from 6 to 10 feet and ascociating in
thick clusters or clumps in their favorit situations which is usually
the heads of small ravines or along the sides of small brooks which
flow from the hills. the flowers which are small and white are
supported by a common footstalk as those of the common wild cherry are,
the corolla consists of five oval petals, five stamen and one
pistillum, and of course of the Class and order Pentandria Monogynia.
it bears a fruit which much resembles the wild cherry in form and
colour tho larger and better flavoured; it's fruit ripens about the
begining of July and continues on the trees untill the latter end of
September- The Indians of the Missouri make great uce of this cherry
which they prepare for food in various ways, sometimes eating when
first plucked from the trees or in that state pounding them mashing the
seed boiling them with roots or meat, or with the prarie beans and
white-apple; again for their winter store they geather them and lay
them on skins to dry in the sun, and frequently pound them and make
them up in small roles or cakes and dry them in the sun; when thus
dryed they fold them in skins or put them in bags of parchment and keep
them through the winter either eating them in this state or boiling
them as before mentioned. the bear and many birds also feed on these
burries. the wild hysop sage, fleshey leaf thorn, and some other herbs
also grow in the plains and hills, particularly the arromatic herb on
which the Antelope and large hare feed. The soil has now changed it's
texture considerably; the base of the hills and river bottoms continue
the same and are composed of a rich black loam while the summits of the
hills and about half their hight downwards are of a light brown colour,
poor sterile and intermixed with a coarse white sand. about 12 OClock
the wind veered about to the N. W. and blew so hard that we were
obliged to Ly by the ballance of the day. we saw great quantities of
game as usual. the bottom lands still becomeing narrower.
About sunset it began to rain, and continued to fall a few drops at a
time untill midnight; the wind blew violently all night.
[Clark, May 12, 1805]
May 12th Sunday 1805.
Set out at an early hour, the morning Clear and Calm, Capt. Lewis
walked on Shore this morning about 12 oClock the wind becam Strong from
the E. about half past one oClock the wind Shifted round to the N. W.
and blew verry hard all the latter part of the day, which obliged us to
Lay by- The Countrey is hilley & rugged and the earth of a lightish
brown and but indifferent, Some Small Cedar is Scattered on the Sides
of the hils & in the hollars, Some pine ridges is also to be Seen on
the North Side, we observe great quantites of game as usual. I killed a
beaver in the water, Saw Several Sitting on the bank near the waters
edge about Sunset it began to rain, and rained very moderately only a
fiew drops at a time for about half the night, wind Continued violent
all night
[Lewis, May 13, 1805]
Monday May 13th 1805.
The wind continued to blow so violently this morning that we did not
think it prudent to set out. sent out some hunters. At 1 P.M. the wind
abated, and altho the hunters had not all returned we set out; the
courant reather stronger than usual and the water continues to become
reather clearer, from both which I anticipate a change of Country
shortly. the country much the same as yesterday; but little timber in
the bottoms and a scant proportion of pine an cedar crown the Stard.
hills. Capt C. who was on shore the greater part of the day killed a
mule and a Common deer, the party killed several deer and some Elk
principally for the benefit of their skins which are necessary to them
for cloathing, the Elk skins I now begin to reserve for making the
leather boat at the falls. the hunters joined us this evening; Gibson
had wounded a very large brown bear but it was too late in the evening
to pursue him.
[Clark, May 13, 1805]
13th of May Monday 1805
The wind Continued to blow hard untill one oClock P M. to day at which
time it fell a little and we Set out and proceeded on verry well about
9 miles and Camped on the Lard Side. the countrey much the Same
appearance as yesterday but little timber in the bottoms; Some Pine in
places on the Stard. Hills. I killed two deer this evening one a mule
deer & the other a common Deer, the party killed Several this morning
all for the use of their Skins which are now good, one man Gibson
wounded a verry large brown bear, too late this evening to prosue him-
We passed two Creeks in a bend to the Lard Side neither them had any
water, are somewhat wider; passed some high black bluffs. saw immence
herds of buffaloe today also Elk deer wolves and Antelopes. passed
three large creeks one on the Stard. and two others on the Lard. side,
neither of which had any runing water. Capt Clark walked on shore and
killed a very fine buffaloe cow. I felt an inclination to eat some veal
and walked on shore and killed a very fine buffaloe calf and a large
woolf, much the whitest I had seen, it was quite as white as the wool
of the common sheep. one of the party wounded a brown bear very badly,
but being alone did not think proper to pursue him. In the evening the
men in two of the rear canoes discovered a large brown bear lying in
the open grounds about 300 paces from the river, and six of them went
out to attack him, all good hunters; they took the advantage of a small
eminence which concealed them and got within 40 paces of him
unperceived, two of them reserved their fires as had been previously
conscerted, the four others fired nearly at the same time and put each
his bullet through him, two of the balls passed through the bulk of
both lobes of his lungs, in an instant this monster ran at them with
open mouth, the two who had reserved their fires discharged their
pieces at him as he came towards them, boath of them struck him, one
only slightly and the other fortunately broke his shoulder, this
however only retarded his motion for a moment only, the men unable to
reload their guns took to flight, the bear pursued and had very nearly
overtaken them before they reached the river; two of the party betook
themselves to a canoe and the others seperated an concealed themselves
among the willows, reloaded their pieces, each discharged his piece at
him as they had an opportunity they struck him several times again but
the guns served only to direct the bear to them, in this manner he
pursued two of them seperately so close that they were obliged to throw
aside their guns and pouches and throw themselves into the river altho
the bank was nearly twenty feet perpendicular; so enraged was this
anamal that he plunged into the river only a few feet behind the second
man he had compelled take refuge in the water, when one of those who
still remained on shore shot him through the head and finally killed
him; they then took him on shore and butched him when they found eight
balls had passed through him in different directions; the bear being
old the flesh was indifferent, they therefore only took the skin and
fleece, the latter made us several gallons of oil; it was after the sun
had set before these men come up with us, where we had been halted by
an occurrence, which I have now to recappitulate, and which altho
happily passed without ruinous injury, I cannot recollect but with the
utmost trepidation and horror; this is the upseting and narrow escape
of the white perogue It happened unfortunately for us this evening that
Charbono was at the helm of this Perogue, in stead of Drewyer, who had
previously steered her; Charbono cannot swim and is perhaps the most
timid waterman in the world; perhaps it was equally unluckey that Capt.
C. and myself were both on shore at that moment, a circumstance which
rarely happened; and tho we were on the shore opposite to the perogue,
were too far distant to be heard or to do more than remain spectators
of her fate; in this perogue ____ were embarked, our papers,
Instruments, books medicine, a great part of our merchandize and in
short almost every article indispensibly necessary to further the
views, or insure the success of the enterprize in which we are now
launched to the distance of 2200 miles. surfice it to say, that the
Perogue was under sail when a sudon squawl of wind struck her
obliquely, and turned her considerably, the steersman allarmed, in
stead of puting her before the wind, lufted her up into it, the wind
was so violent that it drew the brace of the squarsail out of the hand
of the man who was attending it, and instantly upset the perogue and
would have turned her completely topsaturva, had it not have been from
the resistance mad by the oarning against the water; in this situation
Capt. C and myself both fired our guns to attract the attention if
possible of the crew and ordered the halyards to be cut and the sail
hawled in, but they did not hear us; such was their confusion and
consternation at this moment, that they suffered the perogue to lye on
her side for half a minute before they took the sail in, the perogue
then wrighted but had filled within an inch of the gunwals; Charbono
still crying to his god for mercy, had not yet recollected the rudder,
nor could the repeated orders of the Bowsman, Cruzat, bring him to his
recollection untill he threatend to shoot him instantly if he did not
take hold of the rudder and do his duty, the waves by this time were
runing very high, but the fortitude resolution and good conduct of
Cruzat saved her; he ordered 2 of the men to throw out the water with
some kettles that fortunately were convenient, while himself and two
others rowed her ashore, where she arrived scarcely above the water; we
now took every article out of her and lay them to drane as well as we
could for the evening, baled out the canoe and secured her; there were
two other men beside Charbono on board who could not swim, and who of
course must also have perished had the perogue gone to the bottom.
while the perogue lay on her side, finding I could not be heard, I for
a moment forgot my own situation, and involluntarily droped my gun,
threw aside my shot pouch and was in the act of unbuttoning my coat,
before I recollected the folly of the attempt I was about to make,
which was to throw myself into the river and indevour to swim to the
perogue; the perogue was three hundred yards distant the waves so high
that a perogue could scarcely live in any situation, the water
excessively could, and the stream rappid; had I undertaken this project
therefore, there was a hundred to one but what I should have paid the
forfit of my life for the madness of my project, but this had the
perogue been lost, I should have valued but little.- After having all
matters arranged for the evening as well as the nature of circumstances
would permit, we thought it a proper occasion to console ourselves and
cheer the sperits of our men and accordingly took a drink of grog and
gave each man a gill of sperits.
[Clark, May 14, 1805]
14th of May Tuesday 1805
A verry Clear Cold morning a white frost & some fog on the river the
Thermomtr Stood at 32 above 0, wind from the S. W. we proceeded on
verry well untill about 6 oClock a Squawl of wind Struck our Sale broad
Side and turned the perogue nearly over, and in this Situation the
Perogue remained untill the Sale was Cut down in which time She nearly
filed with water- the articles which floated out was nearly all caught
by the Squar who was in the rear. This accident had like to have cost
us deerly; for in this perogue were embarked our papers, Instruments,
books, medicine, a great proportion of our merchandize, and in short
almost every article indispensibly necessary to further the views, or
insure the success of the enterprize in which, we are now launched to
the distance of 2,200 miles. it happened unfortunately that Capt. Lewis
and myself were both on shore at the time of this occurrence, a
circumstance which seldom took place; and tho we were on the shore
opposit to the perogue were too far distant to be heard or do more than
remain spectators of her fate; we discharged our guns with the hope of
attracting the attention of the crew and ordered the sail to be taken
in but such was their consternation and confusion at the instant that
they did not hear us. when however they at length took in the sail and
the perogue wrighted; the bowsman Cruzatte by repeated threats so far
brought Charbono the Sternman to his recollection that he did his duty
while two hands bailed the perogue and Cruzatte and two others rowed
her on shore were she arrived scarcely above the water. we owe the
preservation of the perogue to the resolution and fortitude of Cruzatte
The Countrey like that of yesterday, passed a Small Island and the
enterence of 3 large Creeks, one on the Stard. & the other 2 on the
Lard Side, neither of them had any running water at this time- Six good
hunters of the party fired at a Brown or Yellow Bear Several times
before they killed him, & indeed he had like to have defeated the whole
party, he pursued them Seperately as they fired on him, and was near
Catching Several of them one he pursued into the river, this bear was
large & fat would way about 500 wt; I killed a Buffalow, & Capt. Lewis
a Calf & a wolf this evening.
[Lewis, May 15, 1805]
Wednesday May 15th
as soon as a slight shower of rain passed over this morning, we spread
the articles to dry which had got wet yesterday in the white perogue;
tho the day proved so cloudy and damp that they received but little
benifit from the sun or air; we were enabled to put them in such a
state as to prevent their sustaining further injury. our hunters killed
several deer, and saw three bear one of which they wounded.
[Clark, May 15, 1805]
May 15th Wednesday 1805
Our medisons, Instruments, merchandize, Clothes, provisions &c. &c.
which was nearly all wet we had put out to air and dry. the day being
Cloudy & rainey those articles dried but little to day- our hunters
killed Several deer &c. and Saw three Bear one of which they wounded &c.
We see Buffalow on the banks dead, others floating down dead, and
others mired every day, those buffalow either drown in Swiming the
river or brake thro the ice
[Lewis, May 16, 1805]
Thursday May 16th
The morning was fair and the day proved favorable to our operations; by
4 oClock in the evening our Instruments, Medicine, merchandize
provision &c, were perfectly dryed, repacked and put on board the
perogue. the loss we sustained was not so great as we had at first
apprehended; our medicine sustained the greatest injury, several
articles of which were intirely spoiled, and many others considerably
injured; the ballance of our losses consisted of some gardin seeds, a
small quantity of gunpowder, and a few culinary articles which fell
overboard and sunk, the Indian woman to whom I ascribe equal fortitude
and resolution, with any person onboard at the time of the accedent,
caught and preserved most of the light articles which were washed
overboard all matters being now arranged for our departure we lost no
time in seting out; proceeced on tolerably well about seven miles and
encamped on the Stard. side. in the early part of the day two of our
men fired on a panther, a little below our encampment, and wounded it;
they informed us that it was very large, had just killed a deer partly
devoured it, and in the act of concealing the ballance as they
discovered him. we caught two Antelopes at our encampment in attempting
to swim the river; these anamals are but lean as yet, and of course not
very pleasant food. I walked on shore this evening and killed a
buffaloe cow and calf, we found the calf most excellent veal. the
country on either side of the river is broken and hills much higher
than usual, the bottoms now become narrow and the timber more scant;
some scattering pine and cedar on the steep declivities of the hills.-
this morning a white bear toar Labuiche's coat which he had left in the
plains.
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