Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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[Clark, May 6, 1805]
May 6th Monday 1805
a fine morning wind from the N. E. we Set out early and proceeded on
verry well under Sail the greater part of the day, passed two Creeks &
a River to day on the Lard. Side, neither of them discharged any water
into the Missouri, they were wide and Continued their width for Some
distance, the little water of those Creeks & the little river must wash
the low Country, I believe those Streams to be the Conveyance of the
water of the heavy rains & melting Snows in the Countrey back &c. &c. I
walked on Shore and Killed two Elk neither of which was fat, we saved
the best of the meat, one beaver Shot to day. the countrey on both
Sides butifull no appearances of either Coal or pumice Stone & burnt
hills, The Salts of Tarter or white aprs. of Salts are yet to be Seen.
[Lewis, May 7, 1805]
Tuesday May 7th 1805.
A fine morning, set out at an early hour; the drift wood begins to come
down in consequence of the river's rising; the water is somewhat
clearer than usual, a circumstance I did not expect on it's rise. at 11
A.M. the wind became so hard that we were compelled to ly by for
several hours, one of the small canoes by the bad management of the
steersman filled with water and had very nearly sunk; we unloaded her
and dryed the baggage; at one we proceed on the wind having in some
measure abated. the country we passed today on the North side of the
river is one of the most beautifull plains we have yet seen, it rises
gradually from the river bottom to the hight of 50 or 60 feet, then
becoming level as a bowling green. extends back as far as the eye can
reach; on the S. side the river hills are more broken and much higher
tho some little destance back the country becomes level and fertile. no
appearance of birnt hills coal or pumicestone, that of salts still
continue. vegitation appears to have advanced very little since the
28th Ulto.- we continue to see a great number of bald Eagles, I presume
they must feed on the carcases of dead anamals, for I see no fishing
hawks to supply them with their favorite food. the water of the river
is so terbid that no bird wich feeds exclusively on fish can subsist on
it; from it's mouth to this place I have neither seen the blue crested
fisher nor a fishing hawk. this day we killed 3 Buffaloe 1 Elk & 8
beaver; two of the Buffaloe killed by Capt Clark near our encampment of
this evening wer in good order dressed them and saved the meat, the Elk
I killed this morning, thought it fat, but on examineation found it so
lean that we took the tongue marrowbones and Skin only.
[Clark, May 7, 1805]
May 7th Tuesday, 1805
A fine morning river rose 11/2 Inches last night, the drift wood
beginning to run the water Something Clearer than usial, the wind
became verry hard, and at 11 oClock one Canoe by bad Stearing filled
with water, which detained us about 3 hours, had a Meridian altitude,
the Laid. from which is 47°36' 11" 6/10 The Countrey on the North Side of
the Missouri is one of the handsomest plains we have yet Seen on the
river the plain rises from the river bottom gradually. The Hills on the
South Side is high & uneavin. no appearance of Coal or burnt hills,
that of Salts Still appear; vegitation appears to be Slow, I walked on
the bank to day and Shot 2 beaver, in the evening Killed two Buffalow
in tolerable order which we Saved and Camped on the Lard Side. 8
beaver, 3 buffalow & an Elk killed to day
[Lewis, May 8, 1805]
Wednesday May 8th 1805.
Set out at an early hour under a gentle brieze from the East. a black
cloud which suddonly sprung up at S. E. soon over shaddowed the
horizon; at 8 A.M. it gave us a slight sprinke of rain, the wind became
much stronger but not so much so as to detain us. we nooned it just
above the entrance of a large river which disimbogues on the Lard.
side; I took the advantage of this leasure moment and examined the
river about 3 miles; I found it generally 150 yards wide, and in some
places 200. it is deep, gentle in it's courant and affords a large
boddy of water; it's banks which are formed of a dark rich loam and
blue clay are abbrupt and about 12 feet high. it's bed is principally
mud. I have no doubt but it is navigable for boats perogues and canoes,
for the latter probably a great distance. the bottoms of this stream ar
wide, level, fertile and possess a considerable proportion of timber,
principally Cottonwood. from the quantity of water furnised by this
river it must water a large extent of country; perhaps this river also
might furnish a practicable and advantageous communication with the
Saskashiwan river; it is sufficiently large to justify a belief that it
might reach to that river if it's direction be such. the water of this
river possesses a peculiar whiteness, being about the colour of a cup
of tea with the admixture of a tablespoonful) of milk. from the colour
of it's water we called it Milk river. (we think it possible that this
may be the river called by the Minitares the river which scoalds at all
others or ____) Capt Clark who walked this morning on the Lard. shore
ascended a very high point opposite to the mouth of this river; he
informed me that he had a perfect view of this river and the country
through which it passed for a great distance (probably 50 or 60 Miles,)
that the country was level and beautifull on both sides of the river,
with large herds of Buffaloe distributed throughout that the river from
it's mouth boar N. W. for 12 or 15 Miles when it forked, the one taking
a direction nearly North, and the other to the West of N. West. from
the appearance of the vallies and the timber on each of these streams
Capt. C. supposed that they were about the same size. great appearance
of beaver on this river, and I have no doubt but what they continue
abundant, there being plenty of cottonwood and willow, the timber on
which they subsist. The country on the Lard. side of the river is
generally high broken hills, with much broken, grey black and brown
grannite scattered on the surface of the earth in a confused manner.
The wild Licquorice is found on the sides of these hills, in great
abundance. at a little distance from the river there is no timber to be
seen on either side; the bottom lands are not more than one fifth
covered with timber; the timber as below is confined to the borders of
the river. in future it will be understood that there is no timber of
any discription on the upland unless particularly mentioned; and also
that one fifth of the bottom lands being covered with timber is
considered a large proportion. The white apple is found in great
abundance in this neighbourhood; it is confined to the highlands
principally. The whiteapple, so called by the French Engages, is a
plant which rises to the hight of 6 or 9 Inchs. rarely exceeding a
foot; it puts forth from one to four and sometimes more stalks from the
same root, but is most generally found with one only, which is branched
but not defusely, is cylindric and villose; the leafstalks, cylindric,
villose and very long compared with the hight of the plant, tho
gradually diminish in length as they ascend, and are irregular in point
of position; the leaf, digitate, from three to five in number, oval 1
Inch long, absolutely entire and cottony; the whole plant of a pale
green, except the under disk of the leaf which is of a white colour
from the cottony substance with which it is covered. the radix a
tuberous bulb; generally ova formed, sometimes longer and more rarely
partially divided or brancing; always attended with one or more
radicles at it's lower extremity which sink from 4 to 6 inches deep.
the bulb covered with a rough black, tough, thin rind which easily
seperates from the bulb which is a fine white substance, somewhat
porus, spungy and moist, and reather tough before it is dressed; the
center of the bulb is penitrated with a small tough string or ligament,
which passing from the bottom of the stem terminates in the extremity
of the radicle, which last is also covered by a prolongation of the
rind which invellopes the bulb. The bulb is usually found at the debth
of 4 inches and frequently much deeper. This root forms a considerable
article of food with the Indians of the Missouri, who for this purpose
prepare them in several ways. they are esteemed good at all seasons of
the year, but are best from the middle of July to the latter end of
Autumn when they are sought and gathered by the provident part of the
natives for their winter store. when collected they are striped of
their rhind and strung on small throngs or chords and exposed to the
sun or placed in the smoke of their fires to dry; when well dryed they
will keep for several years, provided they are not permitted to become
moist or damp; in this situation they usually pound them between two
stones placed on a piece of parchment, untill they reduce it to a fine
powder thus prepared they thicken their soope with it; sometimes they
also boil these dryed roots with their meat without breaking them; when
green they are generally boiled with their meat, sometimes mashing them
or otherwise as they think proper. they also prepare an agreeable dish
with them by boiling and mashing them and adding the marrow grease of
the buffaloe and some buries, until the whole be of the consistency of
a haisty pudding. they also eat this root roasted and frequently make
hearty meals of it raw without sustaining any inconvenience or injury
therefrom. The White or brown bear feed very much on this root, which
their tallons assist them to procure very readily. the white apple
appears to me to be a tastless insippid food of itself tho I have no
doubt but it is a very healthy and moderately nutricious food. I have
no doubt but our epicures would admire this root very much, it would
serve them in their ragouts and gravies in stead of the truffles
morella.
We saw a great number buffaloe, Elk, common and Black taled deer, goats
beaver and wolves. Capt C. killed a beaver and a wolf, the party killed
3 beaver and a deer. We can send out at any time and obtain whatever
species of meat the country affords in as large quantity as we wish. we
saw where an Indian had recently grained, or taken the hair off of a
goatskin; we do not wish to see those gentlemen just now as we presume
they would most probably be the Assinniboins and might be troublesome
to us. Capt C. could not be certain but thought he saw the smoke and
some Indian lodges at a considrable distance up Milk river.
[Clark, May 8, 1805]
May the 8th Wednesday 1805
a verry black Cloud to the S W. we Set out under a gentle breeze from
the N. E. about 8 oClock began to rain, but not Sufficient to wet, we
passed the mouth of a large river on the Starboard Side 150 yards wide
and appears to be navagable. the Countrey thro which it passes as far
as Could be seen from the top of a verry high hill on which I was, a
butifull leavil plain this river forks about N W from its mouth 12 or
15 miles one fork runs from the North & the other to the West of N W.
the water of this river will justify a belief that it has its Sourse at
a considerable distance, and waters a great extent of Countrey- we are
willing to believe that this is the River the Minitarres Call the river
which Scolds at all others
the Countrey on the Lard. Side is high & broken with much Stone
Scattered on the hills, In walking on Shore with the Interpreter & his
wife, the Squar Geathered on the Sides of the hills wild Lickerish, &
the white apple as called by the angegies and gave me to eat, the
Indians of the Missouri make great use of the white apple dressed in
different ways- Saw great numbers of Buffalow, Elk, antelope & Deer,
also black tale deer beaver & wolves, I killed a beaver which I found
on the bank, & a wolf. The party killed 3 Beaver 1 Deer I saw where an
Indian had taken the hair off a goat Skin a fiew days past- Camped
early on the Lard. Side. The river we passed today we call Milk river
from the peculiar whiteness of it's water, which precisely resembles
tea with a considerable mixture of milk.
[Lewis, May 9, 1805]
Thursday May 9th 1805.
Set out at an early hour; the wind being favourable we used our sails
and proceeded very well; the country in appearance is much as yester,
with this difference that the land appears more fertile particularly of
the Lard. hills which are not so stoney and less broken; the timber has
also in some measure declined in quantity. today we passed the bed of
the most extraordinary river that I ever beheld. it is as wide as the
Missouri is at this place or 1/2 a mile wide and not containing a
single drop of runing water; some small standing pools being all the
water that could be per-ceived. it falls in on the Lard. side. I walked
up this river about three miles and ascended an eminence from which I
could perceive it many miles; it's course about South for 10 or 12
miles, when it viered around to the E of S. E. as far as I could see.
the valley of this river is wide and possesses but a scanty proportion
of timber; the hills which border it are not very high nor is the
country very broken; it is what may properly be designated a wavy or
roling country intersperced with some handsom level plains. the bank
are low and abbrupt, seldom more than 6 or eight feet above the level
of the bed, yet show but little appearance of being overflown; they are
of black or yellow clay or a rich sandy loam. the bed is entirely
composed of a light brown sand the particles of which as well as that
of the Missoury are remarkably fine. this river I presume must extend
back as far as the black hills and probably is the channel through
which a great extent of plain country discharge their superfluous
waters in the spring season. it had the appearance of having recently
discharged it's waters; and from the watermark, it did not appear that
it had been more than 2 feet deep at it's greatest hight. This stream
(if such it can properly be termed) we called Big dry river. about a
mile below this river on the same side a large creek falls in also dry
at present. The mineral salts and quarts appear in large quantities in
this neighbourhood. the sand of the Missouri from it's mouth to this
place has always possessed a mixture of granulated talk or I now think
most probably that it is this quarts. Capt C. killed 2 bucks and 2
buffaloe, I also killed one buffaloe which proved to be the best meat,
it was in tolerable order; we saved the best of the meat, and from the
cow I killed we saved the necessary materials for making what our
wrighthand cook Charbono calls the boudin blanc, and immediately set
him about preparing them for supper; this white pudding we all esteem
one of the greatest delacies of the forrest, it may not be amiss
therefore to give it a place. About 6 feet of the lower extremity of
the large gut of the Buffaloe is the first mosel that the cook makes
love to, this he holds fast at one end with the right hand, while with
the forefinger and thumb of the left he gently compresses it, and
discharges what he says is not good to eat, but of which in the squel
we get a moderate portion; the mustle lying underneath the shoulder
blade next to the back, and fillets are next saught, these are needed
up very fine with a good portion of kidney suit; to this composition is
then added a just proportion of pepper and salt and a small quantity of
flour; thus far advanced, our skilfull opporater C-o seizes his
recepticle, which has never once touched the water, for that would
intirely distroy the regular order of the whole procedure; you will not
forget that the side you now see is that covered with a good coat of
fat provided the anamal be in good order; the operator sceizes the
recepticle I say, and tying it fast at one end turns it inwards and
begins now with repeated evolutions of the hand and arm, and a brisk
motion of the finger and thumb to put in what he says is bon pour
manger; thus by stuffing and compressing he soon distends the
recepticle to the utmost limmits of it's power of expansion, and in the
course of it's longtudinal progress it drives from the other end of the
recepticle a much larger portion of the ____ than was prevously
discharged by the finger and thumb of the left hand in a former part of
the operation; thus when the sides of the recepticle are skilfully
exchanged the outer for the iner, and all is compleatly filled with
something good to eat, it is tyed at the other end, but not any cut
off, for that would make the pattern too scant; it is then baptised in
the missouri with two dips and a flirt, and bobbed into the kettle;
from whence after it be well boiled it is taken and fryed with bears
oil untill it becomes brown, when it is ready to esswage the pangs of a
keen appetite or such as travelers in the wilderness are seldom at a
loss for.
we saw a great quantity of game today particularly of Elk and Buffaloe,
the latter are now so gentle that the men frequently throw sticks and
stones at them in order to drive them out of the way. we also saw this
evening emence quantities of timber cut by the beaver which appeared to
have been done the preceeding year, in place particularly they had cut
all the timber down for three acres in front and on nearly one back
from the river and had removed a considerable proportion of it, the
timber grew very thick and some of it was as large as a man's body. the
river for several days has been as wide as it is generally near it's
mouth, tho it is much shallower or I should begin to dispair of ever
reaching it's source; it has been crouded today with many sandbars; the
water also appears to become clearer, it has changed it's complexin
very considerably. I begin to feel extreemly anxious to get in view of
the rocky mountains.
I killed four plover this evening of a different species from any I
have yet seen; it resembles the grey or whistling plover more than any
other of this family of birds; it is about the size of the yellow
legged or large grey plover common to the lower part of this river as
well as most parts of the Atlantic States where they are sometimes
called the Jack curloo; the eye is moderately large, are black with a
narrow ring of dark yellowish brown; the head, neck, upper part of the
body and coverts of the wings are of a dove coloured brown, which when
the bird is at rest is the predominant colour; the brest and belley are
of a brownish white; the tail is composed of 12 feathers of 3 Ins.
being of equal length, of these the two in the center are black, with
traverse bars of yellowish brown; the others are a brownish white. the
large feathers of the wings are white tiped with blacked. the beak is
black, 21/2 inches in length, slightly tapering, streight of a
cilindric form and blontly or roundly pointed; the chaps are of equal
length, and nostrils narrow. longitudional and connected; the feet and
legs are smoth and of a greenish brown; has three long toes and a short
one on each foot, the long toes are unconnected with a web, and the
short one is placed very high up the leg behind, insomuch that it dose
not touch the ground when the bird stands erect. the notes of this bird
are louder and more various than any other of this family that I have
seen.
[Clark, May 9, 1805]
May 9th Thursday 1805
a fine Day wind from the East we proceeded on verry well the Countrey
much the appearance which it had yesterday the bottom & high land rich
black earth, Timber not so abondant as below, we passed the mouth of a
river (or the appearance of a river) on the Lard. Side the bend of
which as far as we went up it or could See from a high hill is as large
as that of the Missouri at this place which is near half a mile this
river did not Contain one drop of running water, about a mile below
this river a large Creeke joins the river L. S. which is also Dry-
Those dry Streams which are also verry wide, I think is the Conveyance
of the melted Snow, & heavy rains which is Probable fall in from the
high mountanious Countrey which is Said to be between this river & the
Yellow Stone river- I walked on Shore the fore part of this day, &
observed Great quantities of the Shining Stone which we view as quarts,
I killed 2 Bucks & a Buffalow, Capt Lewis also killed one which verry
good meat, I saw emunerable herds of buffalow, & goats to day in every
derection- The Missouri keeps its width which is nearly as wide as near
its mouth, great number of Sand bars, the water not So muddy & Sand
finer & in Smaller perpotion. Capt. Lewis killed 4 pleaver different
from any I have ever before Seen, larger & have white breast & the
underfeathers of the wings are white &c.
[Lewis, May 9, 1805]
May 9th 1805.
I killed four plover this evening of a different kind from any I have
yet seen. it resembles the grey or whistling plover more than any other
of this family of birds, tho it is much larger. it is about the size of
the yellow leged plover common to the U States, and called the jack
curlooe by some. the legs are of a greenish brown; the toes, three and
one high at the heel unconnected with a webb, the breast and belly of a
brownish white; the head neck upper part of the body and coverts of the
wings are of a dove colured brown which when the bird is at rest is the
predomanent colour. the tale has 12 feathers of the same length of
which the two in the center are black with transverse bars of yellowish
bron, the others are a brownish white. the large feathers of the wings
are white tiped with black. the eyes are black with a small ring of
dark yellowish brown- the beak is black, 21/2 inches long, cilindrical,
streight, and roundly or blountly pointed. the notes of this bird are
louder and more various than of any other species which I have seen.-
[Lewis, May 10, 1805]
Friday May 10th 1805.
Set out at sunrise and proceeded but a short distance ere the wind
became so violent that we were obliged to come too, which we did on the
Lard. side in a suddon or short bend of the river where we were in a
great measure sheltered from the effects of the wind. the wind
continued violent all day, the clouds were thick and black, had a
slight sprinkle of rain several times in the course of the day. we sent
out several hunters to scower the country, to this we were induced not
so much from the want of provision as to discover the Indians whome we
had reasons to believe were in the neighbourhood, from the circumstance
of one of their dogs comeing to us this morning shortly after we
landed; we still beleive ourselves in the country usually hunted by the
Assinniboins, and as they are a vicious illy disposed nation we think
it best to be on our guard, accordingly we inspected the arms and
accoutrements the party and found them all in good order. The hunters
returned this evening having seen no tents or Indians nor any fresh
sign of them; they killed two Mule deer, one common fallow or
longtailed deer, 2 Buffaloe and 5 beaver, and saw several deer of the
Mule kind of immence size, and also three of the Bighorned anamals.
from the appearance of the Mule deer and the bighorned anamals we
beleive ourselves fast approaching a hilly or mountainous country; we
have rarely found the mule deer in any except a rough country; they
prefer the open grounds and are seldom found in the woodlands near the
river; when they are met with in the woodlands or river bottoms and are
pursued, they invariably run to the hills or open country as the Elk
do. the contrary happens with the common deer ther are several
esscential differences between the Mule and common deer as well in form
as in habits. they are fully a third larger in general, and the male is
particularly large; I think there is somewhat greater disparity of size
between the male and female of this speceis than there is between the
male and female fallow deer; I am convinced I have seen a buck of this
species twice the volume of a buck of any other species. the ears are
peculiarly large; I measured those of a large buck which I found to be
eleven inches long and 31/2 in width at the widest part; they are not
so delicately formed, their hair in winter is thicker longer and of a
much darker grey, in summer the hair is still coarser longer and of a
paleer red, more like that of the Elk; in winter they also have a
considerable quantity of a very fine wool intermixed with the hair and
lying next to the skin as the Antelope has. the long hair which grows
on the outer sides of the 1st joint of the hinder legs, and which in
the common deer do not usually occupy more than 2 inches in them
occupys from 6 to eight; their horns also differ, these in the common
deer consist of two main beams from which one or more points project
the beam graduly deminishing as the points procede from it, with the
mule deer the horns consist of two beams which at the distance of 4 or
6 inches from the head divide themselves each into two equal branches
which again either divide into two other equal branches or terminate in
a smaller, and two equal ones; having either 2 4 or 6 points on a beam;
the horn is not so rough about the base as the common deer and are
invariably of a much darker colour. the most striking difference of
all, is the white rump and tale. from the root of the tail as a center
there is a circular spot perfectly white, of abot 3 inches radius,
which occupys a part of the rump and extremitys of the buttocks and
joins the white of the belley underneath; the tail which is usually
from 8 to 9 inches long, for the first 4 or 5 inches from it's upper
extremity is covered with short white hairs, much shorter indeed than
the hairs of the body; from hence for about one inch further the hair
is still white but gradually becomes longer, the tail then terminates
in a tissue of black hair of about 3 Inches long. from this black hair
of the tail they have obtained among the French engages the appelation
of the black taled deer, but this I conceive by no means characteristic
of the anamal as much the larger portion of the tail is white. the year
and the tail of this anamal when compared with those of the common
(leer, so well comported with those of the mule when compared with the
horse, that we have by way of distinction adapted the appellation of
the mule deer which I think much more appropriate. on the inner corner
of each eye there is a drane or large recepicle which seems to answer
as a drane to the eye which gives it the appearance of weeping, this in
the common deer of the atlantic states is scarcely perceptable but
becomes more conspicuous in the fallow deer, and still more so in the
Elk; this recepticle in the Elk is larger than in any of the pecora
order with which I am acquainted.
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