Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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every thing which is incomprehensible to the indians they call big
medicine, and is the opperation of the presnts and power of the great
sperit. this morning one of the men shot the indian dog that had
followed us for several days, he would steal their cooked provision.
[Clark, May 2, 1805]
May 2nd Thursday 1805
The wind blew verry hard all the last night, this morning about Sunrise
began to Snow, (The Thermomtr. at 28 abov o) and Continued untill about
10 oClock, at which time it Seased, the wind Continued hard untill
about 2 P.M. the Snow which fell to day was about 1 In deep, a verry
extroadernaley Climate, to behold the trees Green & flowers Spred on
the plain, & Snow an inch deep. we Set out about 3 oClock and proceeded
on about five 1/2 miles and encamped on the Std Side, the evening verry
cold, Ice freesing to the Ores, I Shot a large beaver & Drewyer three
in walking on the bank, the flesh of those animals the party is fond of
eating &c.
[Lewis, May 3, 1805]
Friday May 3rd 1805.
The morning being very could we did not set out as early as usual; ice
formed on a kettle of water 1/4 of an inch thick. the snow has melted
generally in the bottoms, but the hills still remain covered. on the
lard side at the distance of 2 miles we passed a curious collection of
bushes which had been tyed up in the form of a faciene and standing on
end in the open bottom it appeared to be about 30 feet high and ten or
twelve feet in diameter, this we supposed to have been placed there by
the Indians, as a sacrefice for some purpose. The wind continued to
blow hard from the West but not so strong as to compel us to ly by.
Capt. Clark walked on shore and killed an Elk which he caused to be
butched by the time I arrived with the party, here we halted and dined
being about 12 OCk. our usual time of halting for that purpose. after
dinner Capt. Clark pursued his walk, while I continued with the party,
it being a rule which we had established, never to be absent at the
same time from the party. the plains or high lands are much less
elivated than they were, not being more than from 50 to 60 feet above
the river bottom, which is also wider than usual being from 5 to 9 ms.
in width; traces of the ancient beds of the river are visible in many
places through the whole extent of this valley. since the hills have
become lower the appearance of the stratas of coal burnt hills and
pumice stone have in a great measure ceased; I saw none today. we saw
vast quantities of Buffaloe, Elk, deer principally of the long tale
kind, Antelope or goats, beaver, geese, ducks, brant and some swan.
near the entrance of the river mentioned in the 10th course of this
day, we saw an unusual number of Porcupines from which we determined to
call the river after that anamal, and accordingly denominated it
Porcupine river. this stream discharges itself into the Missouri on the
Stard. side 2000 miles above the mouth of the latter, it is a beatifull
bold runing stream, 40 yards wide at it's entrance; the water is
transparent, it being the first of this discription that I have yet
seen discharge itself into the Missouri; before it enters a large sand
bar through which it discharges itself into the missouri it's banks and
bottom are formed of a stiff blue and black clay; it appears to be
navigable for canoes and perogues at this time and I have no doubt but
it might be navigated with boats of a considerable size in high water.
it's banks appear to be from 8 to ten feet high and seldom overflow;
from the quantity of water furnished by this river, the appearance of
the country, the direction it pursues, and the situation of it's
entrance, I have but little doubt but it takes it's source not far from
the main body of the Suskashawan river, and that it is probably
navigable 150 miles; perhaps not very distant from that river. should
this be the case, it would afford a very favorable communication to the
Athebaskay country, from whence the British N. W. Company derive so
large a portion of their valuable furs.- Capt. Clark who ascended this
river several miles and passed it above where it entered the hills
informed me on his return that he found the general width of the bed of
the river about one hundred yards, where he passed the river the bed
was 112 yards wide, the water was knee deep and 38 yard in width; the
river which he could observe from the rising grounds for about 20
miles, bore a little to the East of North. there was a considerable
portion of timber in the bottom lands of this river. Capt Clark also
met with limestone on the surface of the earth in the course of his
walk. he also saw a range of low mountains at a distance to the W of N
, their direction being N. W. the country in the neighborhood of this
river, and as far as the eye can reach, is level, fertile, open and
beatifull beyond discription. 1/4 of a mile above the entrance of this
river a large creek falls in which we called 2000 mile creek. I sent
Rubin Fields to examine it, he reported it to be a bold runing stream,
it's bed 30 yards wide. we proceeded about 3 miles abov this creek and
encamped on the Stard. shore. I walked out a little distance and met
with 2 porcupines which were feeding on the young willow which grow in
great abundance on all the sandbars; this anamal is exceedingly clumsy
and not very watchfull I approached so near one of them before it
percieved me that I touched it with my espontoon.- found the nest of a
wild goose among some driftwood in the river from which we took three
eggs. this is the only nest we have met with on driftwood, the usual
position is the top of a broken tree, sometimes in the forks of a large
tree but almost invariably, from 15 to 20 feet or upwards high.-
[Clark, May 3, 1805]
May 3rd Friday 1805
we Set out reather later this morning than usial owing to weather being
verry cold, a frost last night and the Thermt. Stood this morning at 26
above 0 which is 6 Degrees blow freeseing- the ice that was on the
Kittle left near the fire last night was 1/4 of an inch thick. The Snow
is all or nearly all off the low bottoms, the Hills are entireley
Covered. three of our party found in the back of a bottom 3 pieces of
Scarlet one brace in each, which had been left as a Sacrifice near one
of their Swet houses, on the L. S. we passed to day a curious
collection of bushes tied up in the shape of fascene about 10 feet
diamuter, which must have been left also by the natives as an offering
to their medison which they Convinced protected or gave them relief
near the place, the wind Continued to blow hard from the West, altho
not Sufficently So to detain us, I walked on Shore and killed an Elk &
had him bucchured by the time the Perogus Came up which was the usial
time of dineing. The high lands are low and from 8 to 9 miles apart and
there is evident marks of the bead of the river having been changed
frequently but little appearance of the Coal & burnt hills to day-
Great numbers of Buffalow, Elk, Deer, antilope, beaver, Porcupins, &
water fowls Seen to day, Such as, Geese, ducks of dift. kinds, & a fiew
Swan- I continued my walk on Shore after dinner, and arrived at the
mouth of a river on the St. Side, which appeared to be large, and I
concluded to go up this river a few miles to examine it accordingly I
Set out North 1 mile thro wood or timbered bottom, 2 miles through a
butifull leavel plain, and 1 mile over a high plain about 50 feet
higher than the bottom & Came to the little river, which I found to be
a butifull clear Stream of about 100 yds. from bank to bank, (I waded
this river at the narrowest part and made it 112 Steps from bank to
bank and at this place which was a kind of fording place the water was
near Knee deep, and 38 steps wide, the bottom of a hard stiff Black
Clay,) I observed a Great perportion of timber in the bottoms of this
river as far as I could See which was to the East of N. 18 or 20 miles,
it appears to be navigable at this time for Canoes, and from
appearances must be navagable a long distance for Perogus & boats in
high water. This river we call Porcupine from the great number of those
anamals found about it's mouth.- a Short distance above about 1/4 mile
and on the Lard Side a large Creek falls in, which R. Fields went to
examine & reports that it is a bold running Stream, 30 yds wide as this
Creek is 2000 miles up the Missouri we Call it the 2000 mile Creek, we
proceeded on 3 miles & Camped on the S. S. here I joined Capt Lewis who
had in my absens walkd. on the upper Side of Porcupine River for Some
distance- This river from its Size & quantity of water must head at no
great distance from the Saskashawan on this river I Saw emence herds
Elk & Buffalow & many deer & Porcupine. I also Saw the top of a
mountain which did not appear verry high to the West of N. & bore N W.
I Saw on the high land limestone & pebble- The Countrey about the mouth
of this river and as far as the eye Can reach is butifull open
Countrey. The greater part of the Snow is melted.
[Lewis, May 4, 1805]
Saturday May 4th 1805.
We were detained this morning untill about 9 OCk. in order to repare
the rudder irons of the red perogue which were broken last evening in
landing; we then set out, the wind hard against us. I walked on shore
this morning, the weather was more plesant, the snow has disappeared;
the frost seems to have effected the vegetation much less than could
have been expected the leaves of the cottonwood the grass the box alder
willow and the yellow flowering pea seem to be scarcely touched; the
rosebushes and honeysuckle seem to have sustaned the most considerable
injury. The country on both sides of the Missouri continues to be open
level fertile and beautifull as far as the eye can reach which from
some of the eminences is not short of 30 miles. the river bottoms are
very extensive and contain a much greater proportion of timber than
usual; the fore part of this day the river was bordered with timber on
both sides, a circumstance which is extreemly rare and the first which
has occurred of any thing like the same extent since we left the
Mandans, in the after part of the day we passed an extensive beautifull
plain on the Stard. side which gradually ascended from the river. I saw
immence quantities of buffaloe in every direction, also some Elk deer
and goats; having an abundance of meat on hand I passed them without
firing on them; they are extreemly gentle the bull buffaloe
particularly will scarcely give way to you. I passed several in the
open plain within fifty paces, they viewed me for a moment as something
novel and then very unconcernedly continued to feed. Capt. Clark walked
on shore this evening and did not rejoin us untill after dark, he
struck the river several miles above our camp and came down to us. we
saw many beaver some which the party shot, we also killed two deer
today. much sign of the brown bear. passed several old Indian hunting
camps in the course of the day one of them contained two large lodges
which were fortifyed with old driftwood and fallen timber; this
fortification consisted of a circular fence of timber lade horizontally
laping on and over laying each other to the hight of 5 feet. these
pounds are sometimes built from 20 to 30 feet in diameter and covered
over with the trunks and limbs of old timber. the usual construction of
the lodges we have lately passed is as follows. three or more strong
sticks the thickness of a man's leg or arm and about 12 feet long are
attatched together at one end by a with of small willows, these are
then set on end and spread at the base, forming a circle of ten twelve
or 14 feet in diameter; sticks of driftwood and fallen timber of
convenient size are now placed with one end on the ground and the other
resting against those which are secured together at top by the with and
which support and give the form to the whole, thus the sticks are laid
on untill they make it as thick as they design, usually about three
ranges, each piece breaking or filling up the interstice of the two
beneath it, the whole forming a connic figure about 10 feet high with a
small apperture in one side which answers as a door. leaves bark and
straw are sometimes thrown over the work to make it more complete, but
at best it affords a very imperfect shelter particularly without straw
which is the state in which we have most usually found them.
At noon the sun was so much obscured that I could not obtain his
maridian Altitude which I much wished in order to fix the latitude of
the entrance of Porcupine river. Joseph Fields was very sick today with
the disentary had a high fever I gave him a doze of Glauber salts,
which operated very well, in the evening his fever abated and I gave
him 30 drops of laudnum.-
[Clark, May 4, 1805]
May 4th Satturday 1805
The rudder Irons of our large Perogue broke off last night, the
replaceing of which detained us this morning untill 9 oClock at which
time we Set out the wind a head from the west, The Countrey on each
Side of the Missouri is a rich high and butifull the bottoms are
extencive with a great deal of timber on them all the fore part of this
day the wood land bordered the river on both Sides, in the after part a
butifull assending plain on the Std Side we Camped on the Std. Side a
little above we passed a Small Creek on the L. Side near which I Saw
where an Indian lodge had been fortified many year past. Saw great
numbers of anamals of different kinds on the banks, I Saw the black
martin to day-in the evening I walkd. on Shore on the Std Side & Struck
the river Several miles above our Camp & did not get to Camp untill
Some time after night- we have one man Sick, The river has been falling
for Several days passed; it now begins to rise a little; the rate of
rise & fall is from one to 3 inches in 24 hours.
[Lewis, May 5, 1805]
Sunday May 5th 1805
A fine morning I walked on shore untill 8 A M when we halted for
breakfast and in the course of my walk killed a deer which I carried
about a mile and a half to the river, it was in good order. soon after
seting out the rudder irons of the white perogue were broken by her
runing fowl on a sawyer, she was however refitted in a few minutes with
some tugs of raw hide and nales. as usual saw a great quantity of game
today; Buffaloe Elk and goats or Antelopes feeding in every direction;
we kill whatever we wish, the buffaloe furnish us with fine veal and
fat beef, we also have venison and beaver tales when we wish them; the
flesh of the Elk and goat are less esteemed, and certainly are
inferior. we have not been able to take any fish for some time past.
The country is as yesterday beatifull in the extreme.
saw the carcases of many Buffaloe lying dead along the shore partially
devoured by the wolves and bear. saw a great number of white brant also
the common brown brant, geese of the common kind and a small species of
geese which differ considerably from the common canadian goose; their
neck head and beak are considerably thicker shorter and larger than the
other in proportion to it's size, they are also more than a third
smaller, and their note more like that of the brant or a young goose
which has not perfectly acquired his notes, in all other rispects they
are the same in colour habits and the number of feathers in the tale,
they frequently also ascociate with the large geese when in flocks, but
never saw them pared off with the large or common goose. The white
brant ascociate in very large flocks, they do not appear to be mated or
pared off as if they intended to raise their young in this quarter, I
therefore doubt whether they reside here during the summer for that
purpose.
this bird is about the size of the common brown brant or two thirds of
the common goose, it is not so long by six inches from point to point
of the wings when extended as the other; the beak head and neck are
also larger and stronger; their beak legs and feet are of a redish or
fleshcoloured white. the eye is of moderate size, the puple of a deep
sea green incircled with a ring of yellowish brown. it has sixteen
feathers of equal length in the tale; their note differs but little
from the common brant, their flesh much the same, and in my opinion
preferable to the goose, the flesh is dark. they are entirely of a
beatifull pure white except the large feathers of the 1st and second
joints of the wings which are jut black. form and habits are the same
with the other brant; they sometimes ascociate and form one common
flock. Capt Clark found a den of young wolves in the course of his walk
today and also saw a great number of those anamals; they are very
abundant in this quarter, and are of two species the small woolf or
burrowing dog of the praries are the inhabitants almost invariably of
the open plains; they usually ascociate in bands of ten or twelve
sometimes more and burrow near some pass or place much frequented by
game; not being able alone to take a deer or goat they are rarely ever
found alone but hunt in bands; they frequently watch and seize their
prey near their burrows; in these burrows they raise their young and to
them they also resort when pursued; when a person approaches them they
frequently bark, their note being precisely that of the small dog. they
are of an intermediate size between that of the fox and dog, very
active fleet and delicately formed; the ears large erect and pointed
the head long and pointed more like that of the fox; tale long; the
hair and fur also resembles the fox tho is much coarser and inferior.
they are of a pale redish brown colour. the eye of a deep sea green
colour small and piercing. their tallons are reather longer than those
of the ordinary wolf or that common to the atlantic states, none of
which are to be found in this quarter, nor I believe above the river
Plat.- The large woolf found here is not as large as those of the
atlantic states. they are lower and thicker made shorter leged. their
colour which is not effected by the seasons, is a grey or blackish
brown and every intermediate shade from that to a creen coloured white;
these wolves resort the woodlands and are also found in the plains, but
never take refuge in the ground or burrow so far as I have been able to
inform myself. we scarcely see a gang of buffaloe without observing a
parsel of those faithfull shepherds on their skirts in readiness to
take care of the mamed & wounded. the large wolf never barks, but howls
as those of the atlantic states do. Capt. Clark and Drewyer killed the
largest brown bear this evening which we have yet seen. it was a most
tremendious looking anamal, and extreemly hard to kill notwithstanding
he had five balls through his lungs and five others in various parts he
swam more than half the distance acoss the river to a sandbar & it was
at least twenty minutes before he died; he did not attempt to attact,
but fled and made the most tremendous roaring from the moment he was
shot. We had no means of weighing this monster; Capt. Clark thought he
would weigh 500 lbs. for my own part I think the estimate too small by
100 lbs. he measured 8 Feet 71/2 Inches from the nose to the extremety
of the hind feet, 5 F. to 1/2 Inch arround the breast, 1 F. 11 I.
arround the middle of the arm, & 3 F. 11 I. arround the neck; his
tallons which were five in number on each foot were 4 1/8 Inches in
length. he was in good order, we therefore divided him among the party
and made them boil the oil and put it in a cask for future uce; the oil
is as hard as hogs lard when cool, much more so than that of the black
bear. this bear differs from the common black bear in several respects;
it's tallons are much longer and more blont, it's tale shorter, it's
hair which is of a redish or bey brown, is longer thicker and finer
than that of the black bear; his liver lungs and heart are much larger
even in proportion with his size; the heart particularly was as large
as that of a large Ox. his maw was also ten times the size of black
bear, and was filled with flesh and fish. his testicles were pendant
from the belly and placed four inches assunder in seperate bags or
pouches.- this animal also feeds on roots and almost every species of
wild fruit.
The party killed two Elk and a Buffaloe today, and my dog caught a
goat, which he overtook by superior fleetness, the goat it must be
understood was with young and extreemly poor. a great number of these
goats are devowered by the wolves and bear at this season when they are
poor and passing the river from S. W. to N. E. they are very inactive
and easily taken in the water, a man can out swim them with great ease;
the Indians take them in great numbers in the river at this season and
in autumn when they repass to the S. W.
[Clark, May 5, 1805]
5th of May Sunday 1805
We Set out verry early and had not proceeded far before the rudder
Irons of one of the Perogus broke which detained us a Short time Capt
Lewis walked on Shore this morning and killed a Deer, after brackfast I
walked on Shore Saw great numbers of Buffalow & Elk Saw also a Den of
young wolves, and a number of (frown wolves in every direction, the
white & Grey Brant is in this part of the Missouri I shot at the white
brant but at So great a distance I did not kill, The Countrey on both
sides is as yesterday, handsom & fertile- The river rising & Current
Strong & in the evening we Saw a Brown or Grisley beare on a Sand
beech, I went out with one man Geo. Drewyer & Killed the bear, which
was verry large and a turrible looking animal, which we found verry
hard to kill we Shot ten Balls into him before we killed him, & 5 of
those Balls through his lights This animal is the largest of the
Carnivorous kind I ever Saw we had nothing that could way him, I think
his weight may be Stated at 500 pounds, he measured 8 feet 71/2 In.
from his nose to the extremity of the Toe, 5 feet 101/2 in. arround the
breast, 1 feet 11 Ins. around the middle of the arm, 3 feet 11 Ins.
arround the neck his tallents was 4 Inches &3/8 long, he was good
order, and appeared verry different from the Common black bear in as
much as his tallents were blunt, his tail Short, his liver & lights
much larger, his maw ten times as large and Contained meat or flesh &
fish only- we had him Skined and divided, the oile tried up & put in
Kegs for use. we Camped on the Stard Side, our men killed three Elk and
a Buffalow to day, and our Dog Cought an antilope a fair race, this
animal appeared verry pore & with young.
[Lewis, May 6, 1805]
Monday May 6th 1805.
The morning being fair and pleasant and wind favourable we set sale at
an early hour, and proceeded on very well the greater part of the day;
the country still continues level fertile and beautifull, the bottoms
wide and well timbered comparitively speaking with other parts of the
river; no appearance of birnt hills pumice stone or coal, the salts of
tartar or vegitable salts continues to appear on the river banks, sand
bars and in many parts of the plains most generally in the little
revines at the base of the low hills. passed three streames today which
discharged themselves on the Lard. side; the first of these we call
little dry creek it contained some water in standing pools but
discharged none, the 2ed 50 yards wide no Water, we called it Big dry
Creek, the 3rd is bed of a conspicuous river 200 yards wide which we
called little dry river; the banks of these streams are low and bottoms
wide with but little timber, their beds are almost entirely formed of a
fine brown sand intermixed with a small proportion of little pebbles,
which were either transparent, white, green, red, yellow or brown.
these streams appeared to continue their width without diminution as
far as we could perceive them, which with rispect to the river was many
miles, they had recenly discharged their waters. from the appearance of
these streams, and the country through which they passed, we concluded
that they had their souces in level low dry plains, which probably is
the character of the country for a great distance west of this, or to
the vicinity of the black hills, that the country being low on the same
level nearly and in the same parallel of latitude, that the rains in
the spring of the year suddonly melts the snow at the same time and
causes for a few days a vast quantity of water which finds it's way to
the Missouri through those channels; by reference to the diary of the
weather &c it will be percieved that there is scarcely any rain during
the summer Autumn and winter in this open country distant from the
mountains. Fields still continues unwell. saw a brown bear swim the
river above us, he disappeared before we can get in reach of him; I
find that the curiossity of our party is pretty well satisfyed with
rispect to this anamal, the formidable appearance of the male bear
killed on the 5th added to the difficulty with which they die when even
shot through the vital parts, has staggered the resolution several of
them, others however seem keen for action with the bear; I expect these
gentlemen will give us some amusement shotly as they soon begin now to
coppolate. saw a great quantity of game of every species common here.
Capt Clark walked on shore and killed two Elk, they were not in very
good order, we therefore took a part of the meat only; it is now only
amusement for Capt. C. and myself to kill as much meat as the party can
consum; I hope it may continue thus through our whole rout, but this I
do not much expect. two beaver were taken in traps this morning and one
since shot by one of the party. saw numbers of these anamals peeping at
us as we passed out of their wholes which they form of a cilindric
shape, by burrowing in the face of the abbrupt banks of the river.
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