Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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emence numbers of antelopes in the forks of the river, Buffalow & Elk &
Deer is also plenty beaver is in every bend. I observe that the Magpie
Goose duck & Eagle all have their nests in the Same neighbourhood, and
it is not uncommon for the Magpie to build in a few rods of the eagle,
the nests of this bird is built verry Strong with Sticks Covered verry
thickly with one or more places through which they enter or escape, the
Goose I make no doubt falls a pray to those vicious eagles
[Lewis, April 27, 1805]
Saturday April 27th 1805. Previous to our seting out this morning I
made the following observations.
This morning I walked through the point formed by the junction of the
rivers; the woodland extends about a mile, when the rivers approach
each other within less than half a mile; here a beatifull level low
plain commences and extends up both rivers for many miles, widening as
the rivers recede from each other, and extending back half a mile to a
plain about 12 feet higher than itself; the low plain appears to be a
few inches higher than high water mark and of course will not be liable
to be overflown; tho where it joins the high plain a part of the
Missouri when at it's greatest hight, passes through a channel of 60 or
70 yards wide and falls into the yellowstone river. on the Missouri
about 21/2 miles from the entrance of the yellowstone river, and
between this high and low plain, a small lake is situated about 200
yards wide extending along the edge of the high plain parallel with the
Missouri about one mile. on the point of the high plain at the lower
extremity of this lake I think would be the most eligible site for an
establishment. between this low plain and the Yellowstone river their
is an extensive body of timbered land extending up the river for many
miles. this site recommended is about 400 yards distant from the
Missouri and about double that distance from the river yellowstone;
from it the high plain, rising very gradually, extends back about three
miles to the hills, and continues with the same width between these
hills and the timbered land on the yellowstone river, up that stream,
for seven or eight miles; and is one of the hadsomest plains I ever
beheld. on the Missouri side the hills sircumscribe it's width, & at
the distance of three miles up that river from this site, it is not
more than 400 yards wide. Capt Clark thinks that the lower extremity of
the low plane would be most eligible for this establishment; it is true
that it is much nearer both rivers, and might answer very well, but I
think it reather too low to venture a permanent establishment,
particularly if built of brick or other durable materials, at any
considerable expence; for so capricious, and versatile are these
rivers, that it is difficult to say how long it will be, untill they
direct the force of their currents against this narrow part of the low
plain, which when they do, must shortly yeald to their influence; in
such case a few years only would be necessary, for the annihilation of
the plain, and with it the fortification.- I continued my walk on
shore; at 11 A.M. the wind became very hard from N. W. insomuch that
the perogues and canoes were unable either to proceede or pass the
river to me; I was under the necessity therefore of shooting a goose
and cooking it for my dinner. the wind abated about 4. P.M. and the
party proceeded tho I could not conveniently join them untill night.
altho game is very abundant and gentle, we only kill as much as is
necessary for food. I believe that two good hunters could conveniently
supply a regiment with provisions. for several days past we have
observed a great number of buffaloe lying dead on the shore, some of
them entire and others partly devoured by the wolves and bear. those
anamals either drownded during the winter in attempting to pass the
river on the ice during the winter or by swiming acrss at present to
bluff banks which they are unable to ascend, and feeling themselves too
weak to return remain and perish for the want of food; in this
situation we met with several little parties of them.- beaver are very
abundant, the party kill several of them every day. The Eagles,
Magpies, and gees have their nests in trees adjacent to each other; the
magpye particularly appears fond of building near the Eagle, as we
scarcely see an Eagle's nest unaccompanyed with two or three Magpies
nests within a short distance.- The bald Eagle are more abundant here
than I ever observed them in any part of the country.
[Clark, April 27, 1805]
27th of April Satturday 1805
after take the azmuth of the Sun & brackfasting we Set out wind
moderate & a head, at 11 oClock the wind rose and continued to blow
verry hard a head from the N. W. untill 4 oClock P M, which blew the
Sand off the Points in Such clouds as almost Covered us on the opposit
bank, at 4 I Set out from my unpleasent Situation and proceeded on,
Capt. Lewis walked on Shore in the Point to examine & view the Countrey
and could not get to the boats untill night, Saw great numbers of Goats
or antilopes, Elk, Swan Gees & Ducks, no buffalow to day I Saw Several
beaver and much Sign, I Shot one in the head which imediately Sunk,
altho the game of different kinds are in abundance we Kill nothing but
what we can make
[Lewis, April 28, 1805]
Sunday April 28th 1805.
Set out this morning at an early hour; the wind was favourable and we
employed our sails to advantage. Capt Clark walked on shore this
morning, and I proceeded with the party. the country through which we
passed today is open as usual and very broken on both sides near the
river hills, the bottoms are level fertile and partially covered with
timber. the hills and bluffs exhibit their usual mineral appearances,
some birnt hills but no appearance of Pumicestone; coal is in great
abundance and the salts still increase in quantity; the banks of the
river and sandbars are incrusted with it in many places and appear
perfectly white as if covered with snow or frost.- the woods are now
green, tho the plains and meadows appear to abate of the verdure those
below exhibited some days past. we past three small runs today. two
falling in on the Stard. and one on the Lard. side, they are but small
afford but little water and head a few miles back in the hills. we saw
great quantities of game today; consisting of the common and mule deer,
Elk, Buffaloe, and Antelopes; also four brown bear, one of which was
fired on and wounded by one of the party but we did not get it; the
beaver have cut great quantities of timber; saw a tree nearly 3 feet in
diameter that had been felled by them. Capt. Clark in the course of his
walk killed a deer and a goose; & saw three black bear; he thinks the
bottoms are not so wide as they have been for some days past.
[Clark, April 28, 1805]
28th of April Sunday 1805
a fine day river falling, wind favourable from the S. E. and moderate,
I walked on Shore to view the Countrey, from the top of the high hills,
I beheld a broken & open Countrey on both Sides, near the river Some
verry handsom low plains, I killd. a Deer & a goose, Saw three black
bear great numbers of Elk antelopes & 2 Gangues of Buffalow, the hills
& Bluffs Shew the Straturs of Coal, and burnt appearances in maney
places, in and about them I could find no appearance of Pumice Stone,
the wood land have a green appearance, the Plains do not look So green
as below, The bottoms are not So wide this afternoon as below Saw four
bear this evening, one of the men Shot at one of them. The Antilopes
are nearly red, on that part which is Subject to change i e the Sides &
2/3 of the back from the head, the other part as white as Snow, 2 Small
runs fall in on the S. Side and one this evening on the Lard Side those
runs head at a fiew miles in the hills and discharge but little water,
the Bluffs in this part as also below Shew different Straturs of Coal
or carbonated wood, and Coloured earth, such as dark brown, yellow a
lightish brown, & a dark red &c.
[Lewis, April 29, 1805]
Monday April 29th 1805.
Set out this morning at the usual hour; the wind was moderate; I walked
on shore with one man. about 8 A.M. we fell in with two brown or yellow
bear; both of which we wounded; one of them made his escape, the other
after my firing on him pursued me seventy or eighty yards, but
fortunately had been so badly wounded that he was unable to pursue so
closely as to prevent my charging my gun; we again repeated our fir and
killed him. it was a male not fully grown, we estimated his weight at
300 lbs. not having the means of ascertaining it precisely. The legs of
this bear are somewhat longer than those of the black, as are it's
tallons and tusks incomparably larger and longer. the testicles, which
in the black bear are placed pretty well back between the thyes and
contained in one pouch like those of the dog and most quadrupeds, are
in the yellow or brown bear placed much further forward, and are
suspended in seperate pouches from two to four inches asunder; it's
colour is yellowish brown, the eyes small, black, and piercing; the
front of the fore legs near the feet is usually black; the fur is finer
thicker and deeper than that of the black bear. these are all the
particulars in which this anamal appeared to me to differ from the
black bear; it is a much more furious and formidable anamal, and will
frequently pursue the hunter when wounded. it is asstonishing to see
the wounds they will bear before they can be put to death. the Indians
may well fear this anamal equiped as they generally are with their bows
and arrows or indifferent fuzees, but in the hands of skillfull
riflemen they are by no means as formidable or dangerous as they have
been represented. game is still very abundant we can scarcely cast our
eyes in any direction without percieving deer Elk Buffaloe or
Antelopes. The quantity of wolves appear to increase in the same
proportion; they generally hunt in parties of six eight or ten; they
kill a great number of the Antelopes at this season; the Antelopes are
yet meagre and the females are big with young; the wolves take them
most generally in attempting to swim the river; in this manner my dog
caught one drowned it and brought it on shore; they are but clumsey
swimers, tho on land when in good order, they are extreemly fleet and
dureable. we have frequently seen the wolves in pursuit of the Antelope
in the plains; they appear to decoy a single one from a flock, and then
pursue it, alturnately relieving each other untill they take it. on
joining Capt Clark he informed me that he had seen a female and faun of
the bighorned anamal; that they ran for some distance with great
aparent ease along the side of the river bluff where it was almost
perpendicular; two of the party fired on them while in motion without
effect. we took the flesh of the bear on board and proceeded. Capt.
Clark walked on shore this evening, killed a deer, and saw several of
the bighorned anamals. there is more appearance of coal today than we
have yet seen, the stratas are 6 feet thick in some instances; the
earth has been birnt in many places, and always appears in stratas on
the same level with the stratas of coal. we came too this evening in
the mouth of a little river, which falls in on the Stard. side. This
stream is about 50 yards wide from bank to bank; the water occupyes
about 15 yards. the banks are of earth only, abrupt, tho not high- the
bed, is of mud principally. Capt Clark, who was up this streeam about
three miles, informed me that it continued about the same width, that
it's current was gentle and it appeared navigable for perogus it
meanders through an extensive, fertile, and beautifull vally as far as
could bee seen about N. 30°W. there was but one solitary tree to be seen
on the banks of this river after it left the bottom of the Missouri.
the water of this river is clear, with a brownish yelow tint. here the
highlands receede from the Missouri, leaving the vally formed by the
river from seven to eight miles wide, and reather lower then usual.-
This stream my friend Capt. C. named Marthas river
[Clark, April 29, 1805]
29th of April Monday 1805
Set out this morning at the usial hour. the wind is moderate & from the
N E had not proceeded far eer we Saw a female & her faun of the Bighorn
animal on the top of a Bluff lying, the noise we made allarmed them and
they came down on the Side of the bluff which had but little Slope
being nearly purpindicular, I directed two men to kill those anamals,
one went on the top and the other man near the water they had two Shots
at the doe while in motion without effect, Those animals run & Skiped
about with great ease on this declivity & appeared to prefur it to the
leavel bottom or plain. Capt Lewis & one man walkd on Shore and he
killed a yellow Bear & the man with him wounded one other, after
getting the flesh of the bear on bord which was not far from the place
we brackfast, we proceeded on Saw 4 gangus of buffalow and great
numbers of Antelopes in every direction also Saw Elk and Several
wolves, I walked on Shore in the evening & killed a Deer which was So
meager as to be unfit for use The hills Contain more Coal, and has a
greater appearance of being burnt that below, the burnt parts appear on
a parrilel with the Stratiums of Coal, we Came too in the mouth of a
Little river on the S. S. which is about 50 or 60 yards from bank to
bank, I was up this Stream 3 miles it continues its width and glides
with a gentle Current, its water is about 15 yards wide at this time,
and appears to be navagable for Canoes &c. it meanders through a
butifull & extencive vallie as far as can be Seen about N 30° W. I saw
only a Single tree in this fertile vallie The water of the River is
clear of a yellowish Colour, we call this river Martheys river in honor
to the Selebrated M. F
Here the high land widen from five to Eight miles and much lower than
below, Saw Several of the big horn animals this evening. The Wolves
distroy great numbers of the antilopes by decoying those animals
Singularly out in the plains and prosueing them alternetly, those
antelopes are Curious and will approach any thing which appears in
motion near them &c.
[Lewis, April 30, 1805]
Tuesday April 30th 1805.
Set out at sunrise. the wind blew hard all last night, and continued to
blow pretty hard all day, but not so much, as to compell us to ly by.
the country as usual is bare of timber; the river bottoms are level and
fertile and extensive, but possess but little timber and that of an
indifferent quality even of it's kind; principally low cottonwood,
either too small for building, or for plank or broken and dead at top
and unsound in the center of the trunk. saw great quantities of game as
usual. Capt. Clark walked on shore the greater part of the day, past
some old Indian lodges built of drift wood; they appear to be of
antient date and not recently inhabited. I walked on shore this evening
and killed a buck Elk, in tolerable order; it appeared to me to be the
largest I had seen, and was therefore induced to measure it; found it
five feet three inches from the point of the hoof, to the top of the
sholders; the leg and hoof being placed as nearly as possible in the
same position they would have been had the anamal been standing.
[Clark, April 30, 1805]
30th of April Tuesday 1805
The wind blew hard from the N E all last night, we Set out at Sunrise
the wind blew hard the greater part of the day and part of the time
favourable, we did not lie by to day on account of the wind I walked on
Shore to day our interpreter & his Squar followed, in my walk the Squar
found & brought me a bush Something like the Current, which She Said
bore a delicious froot and that great quantites grew on the Rocky
Mountains, this Srub was in bloom has a yellow flower with a deep Cup,
the froot when ripe is yellow and hangs in bunches like Cheries, Some
of those berries yet remained on the bushes. The bottoms above the
mouth of the last river is extensive level & fertile and covered with
indifferent timber in the points, the up land appear to rise gradually,
I saw Great numbers of Antelopes, also Scattering Buffalow, Elk, Deer,
wolves, Gees, ducks & Grows- I Killed 2 Gees which we dined on to day
Capt Lewis walked on Shore and killed an elk this evening, and we Came
too & camped on the S. S the Countrey on both Sides have a butifull
appearance.
[Lewis, May 1, 1805]
Wednesday May 1st 1805.
Set out this morning at an early, the wind being favourable we used our
sales which carried us on at a good pace untill about 12 OCk. when the
wind became so high that the small canoes were unable to proceed one of
them which seperated from us just befor the wind became so violent, is
now lying on the opposite side of the river, being unable to rejoin us
in consequence of the waves, which during those gusts run several feet
high. we came too on the Lard. shore in a handsome bottom well stocked
with cottonwood timber; here the wind compelled us to spend the
ballance of the day. we sent out some hunters who killed a buffaloe, an
Elk, a goat and two beaver. game is now abundant. the country appears
much more pleasant and fertile than that we have passed for several
days; the hills are lower, the bottoms wider, and better stocked with
timber, which consists principally of cottonwood, not however of large
size; the under-growth willow on the verge of the river and sandbars,
rose bushes, red willow and the broad leafed willow in the bottom
lands; the high country on either side of the river is one vast plain,
intirely destitute of timber, but is apparently fertile, consisting of
a dark rich mellow looking lome. John Shields sick today with the
rheumatism. Shannon killed a bird of the plover kind. weight one pound.
it measured from the tip of the toe, to the extremity of the beak, 1
foot 10 Inches; from tip to tip of wings when extended 2 F. 5 I.; Beak
3 5/8 inches; tale 3 1/8 inches; leg and toe 10 Ins.- the eye black,
piercing, prominent and moderately large. the legs are Hat thin,
slightly imbricated and of a pale sky blue colour, being covered with
feathers as far as the mustle extends down it, which is about half it's
length. it has four toes on each foot, three of which, are connected by
a web, the fourth is small and placed at the heel about the 1/8 of an
inch up the leg. the nails are black and short, that of the middle toe
is extreemly singular, consisting of two nails the one laping on or
overlaying the other, the upper one somewhat the longest and sharpest.
the tale contains eleven feathers of equal length, & of a bluish white
colour. the boddy and underside of the wings, except the large feathers
of the 1st & 2cd joints of the same, are white; as are also the
feathers of the upper part of the 4th joint of the wing and part of
those of the 3rd adjacent thereto, the large feathers of the 1st or
pinion and the 2cd joint are black; a part of the larger feathers of
the 3rd joint on the upper side and all the small feathers which cover
the upper part of the wings are black, as are also the tuft of long
feathers on each side of the body above the joining of the wing,
leaving however a stripe of white betwen them on the back. the head and
neck are shaped much like the grey plover, and are of a light brickdust
brown; the beak is black and flat, largest where it joins the head, and
from thence becoming thiner and tapering to a very sharp point, the
upper chap being 1/8 of an inch the longest turns down at the point and
forms a little hook. the nostrils, which commence near the head are
long, narrow, connected, and parallel with the beak; the beak is much
curved, the curvature being upwards in stead of downwards as is common
with most birds; the substance of the beak precisely resembles
whalebone at a little distance, and is quite as flexable as that
substance their note resembles that of the grey plover, tho is reather
louder and more varied, their habits appear also to be the same, with
this difference; that it sometimes rests on the water and swims which I
do not recollect having seen the plover do. this bird which I shall
henceforth stile the Missouri plover, generally feeds about the shallow
bars of the river; to collect it's food which consists of ____, it
immerces it's beak in the water and throws it's head and beak from side
to side at every step it takes.
[Clark, May 1, 1805]
May the 1st Wednesday 1805
We Set out at Sun rise under a Stiff Breeze from the East, the morning
Cool & Cloudy. one man J. Shields Sick with rhumetism- one of the men
(Shannon) Shot a Gull or pleaver, which is about the Size of an Indian
hen, with a Sharp pointed bill turning up & 4 Inches long, the head and
neck of a light brown, the breast, the underfeathers of the 2nd and 3d
joint of the wings, the Short feathers on the upper part of the 3rd
joint of the wings, down the back the rump & tail white. The large
feathers of the 1st joints of the wing the upper feathers of the 2d
joints of the wings, on the body on the joints of the wing and the bill
is black.- the legs long and of a Skie blue. The feet webed &c. This
fowl may be properly Stiled the Missouri Pleaver- the wind became verry
Hard and we put too on the L. Side, as the wind Continued with Some
degree of violence and the waves too high for the Canoes we were
obliged to Stay all day
[Lewis, May 1, 1805]
May 1st 1805.
Shannon killed a bird of the plover kind the weight one pound.- eye
black percing and prominent
Measure F.
Inchs
from the tip of the toe to the extremity of the beak 1
10
from tip to tip of wing when extended 2 5
length of beak 3
5/8
length of tale 3
1/8
length of leg and toe
10
the legs are flat, of pale skye blue colour and but slightly
imbricated. the second joint, as low as the mustle extends is covered
with feathers which is about half it's length. it has three toes on a
foot connected by a web. there is also a small toe on each foot placed
about the eighth of an inch up the leg behind. the nails are black and
short and those of the middle toes ar singular-there being two nails on
each the one above the other the upper one the longest and sharpest.-
the tale contains eleven feathers of the same length of a bluish white
colour. the body and under side of the wings except the large feathers
of the 1 & 2cd joints of the wings are white, as are also the feathers
of the upper part of the 4th joint of the wing. and some of those of
the 3rd adjoining.- the large feathers of the pinion or first (joint) &
the second joint are black; a part of the larger feathers of the third
joint on the upper side and all the smaller feathers which cover the
upper part of these joints ar black; as are also the tuft of long
feathers on each side of the body above the joining of the wing,
leaving however a stripe of white between them on the back. the head
and neck are shaped much like the grey plover, and is a light brickdust
brown. the beak is black and flat, largest where it joins the head and
from thence tapering every way gradually to a very sharp point the
upper beak being 1/8 of an inch the longest turning down at the point.
the nostrils are parrallal with the beak and are long narrow and
connected. the beak is curvated and invirted; the Curvature being
upwards in stead of downwards as those of most birds are- the substance
of the beak is as flexable as whalebone and at a little distance
precisely resembles that substance. their note is like that of the
common whistling or grey plover tho reather louder, and more varied,
and their habits are the same with that bird so far as I have been
enabled to learn, with this difference however that this bird sometimes
lights in the water and swims.- it generally feads about the shallow
bars of the river; to collect it's food, it immerces it's beak in the
water, and thows it's head and beak from side to side at every step it
takes.
[Lewis, May 2, 1805]
Thursday May 2ed 1805
The wind continued violent all night nor did it abate much of it's
violence this morning, when at daylight it was attended with snow which
continued to fall untill about 10 A.M. being about one inch deep, it
formed a singular contrast with the vegitation which was considerably
advanced. some flowers had put forth in the plains, and the leaves of
the cottonwood were as large as a dollar. sent out some hunters who
killed 2 deer 3 Elk and several buffaloe; on our way this evening we
also shot three beaver along the shore; these anamals in consequence of
not being hunted are extreemly gentle, where they are hunted they never
leave their lodges in the day, the flesh of the beaver is esteemed a
delecacy among us; I think the tale a most delicious morsal, when
boiled it resembles in flavor the fresh tongues and sounds of the
codfish, and is usually sufficiently large to afford a plentifull meal
for two men. Joseph Fields one of the hunters who was out today found
several yards of scarlet cloth which had been suspended on the bough of
a tree near an old indian hunting camp, where it had been left as a
sacrefice to the deity by the indians, probably of the Assinniboin
nation, it being a custom with them as well as all the nations
inhabiting the waters of the Missouri so far as they are known to us,
to offer or sacrefice in this manner to the deity watever they may be
possessed off which they think most acceptable to him, and very
honestly making their own feelings the test of those of the deity offer
him the article which they most prize themselves. this being the most
usual method of weshiping the great sperit as they term the deity, is
practiced on interesting occasions, or to produce the happy eventuation
of the important occurrances incident to human nature, such as relief
from hungar or mallady, protection from their enemies or the delivering
them into their hands, and with such as cultivate, to prevent the
river's overflowing and distroying their crops &c. screfices of a
similar kind are also made to the deceased by their friends and
relatives. the are was very piercing this evening the water friezed on
the oars as they rowed. the wind dying at 5 P.M. we set out.
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