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Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark

M >> Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark

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[Clark, April 10, 1805]
10th of April Wednesday 1805
Set out verry early. the morning cool and no wind proceeded on passed a
camp of Inds. on the L. S. this day proved to be verry worm, the
Misquetors troublesom. I Saw Several Antilope on the S. S. also gees &
Swan, we over took 3 french men Trappers The countrey to day as usial
except that the points of Timber is larger than below, the Coal
Continue to day, one man Saw a hill on fire at no great distance from
the river, we camped on the S. S. just above a remarkable bend in the
river to the S W, which we call the little bacon.

[Lewis, April 11, 1805]
Thursday April 11th
Set out at an early hour; I proceeded with the party and Capt Clark
with George Drewyer walked on shore in order to procure some fresh meat
if possible. we proceeded on abot five miles, and halted for breakfast,
when Capt Clark and Drewyer joined us; the latter had killed, and
brought with him a deer which was at this moment excepable as we had
had no fresh meat for several days. the country from fort Mandan to
this place is so constantly hunted by the Minetaries that there is but
little game we halted at two P.M. and made a comfortable dinner on a
venison stake and beavers tales with the bisquit which got wet on the
8th inst. by the accidant of the canoe filling with water before
mentioned. the powder which got wet by the same accedent, and which we
had spread to dry on the baggage of the large perogue, was now examined
and put up; it appears to be almost restored, and our loss is therefore
not so great as we had at first apprehended.- the country much the same
as yesterday. on the sides of the hills and even the banks of the
rivers and sandbars, there is a white substance that appears in
considerable quantities on the surface of the earth, which tastes like
a mixture of common salt and glauber salts. many of the springs which
flow from the base of the river hills are so strongly impregnated with
this substance that the water is extreemly unpleasant to the taste and
has a purgative effect.- saw some large white cranes pass up the river-
these are the largest bird of that genus common to the country through
which the Missouri and Mississippi pass. they are perfectly white
except the large feathers of the two first joints of the wing which are
black. we encamped this evening on the Stard. shore just above the
point of woodland which formed to extremity of the last course of this
day. there is a high bluff opposite to us, under which we saw some
Indians, but the river is here so wide that we could not speake to
them; suppose them to be a hunting party of Minetares.- we killed two
gees today.

[Clark, April 11, 1805]
11th of April Thursday 1805
Set out verry early I walked on Shore, Saw fresh bear tracks, one deer
& 2 beaver killed this morning in the after part of the day killed two
gees; Saw great numbers of Gees Brant & Mallard Some White Cranes Swan
& guls, the plains begin to have a green appearance, the hills on
either side are from 5 to 7 miles asunder and in maney places have been
burnt, appearing at a distance of a redish brown choler, containing
Pumic Stone & lava, Some of which rolin down to the base of those
hills- In maney of those hills forming bluffs to the river we procieve
Several Stratums of bituminious Substance which resembles Coal; thong
Some of the pieces appear to be excellent Coal it resists the fire for
Some time, and consumes without emiting much flaim.

The plains are high and rich Some of them are Sandy Containing Small
pebble, and on Some of the hill Sides large Stones are to be Seen- In
the evening late we observed a party of Me ne tar ras on the L. S. with
horses and dogs loaded going down, those are a part of the Menetarras
who camped a little above this with the Ossinniboins at the mouth of
the little Missouri all the latter part of the winter we Camped on the
S. S. below a falling in bank. the river raise a little.

[Lewis, April 12, 1805]
Friday April the 12th 1805.
Set out at an early hour. our peroge and the Canoes passed over to the
Lard side in order to avoid a bank which was rappidly falling in on the
Stard. the red perogue contrary to my expectation or wish passed under
this bank by means of her toe line where I expected to have seen her
carried under every instant. I did not discover that she was about to
make this attempt untill it was too late for the men to reembark, and
retreating is more dangerous than proceeding in such cases; they
therefore continued their passage up this bank, and much to my
satisfaction arrived safe above it. this cost me some moments of
uneasiness, her cargo was of much importance to us in our present
advanced situation- We proceeded on six miles and came too on the lower
side of the entrance of the little Missouri on the Lard shore in a fine
plain where we determined to spend the day for the purpose of celestial
observation. we sent out 10 hunters to procure some fresh meat. at this
place made the following observations.-

The night proved so cloudy that I could make no further observations.
George Drewyer shot a Beaver this morning, which we found swiming in
the river a small distance below the entrance of the little Missouri.
the beaver being seen in the day, is a proof that they have been but
little hunted, as they always keep themselves closly concealed during
the day where they are so.- found a great quantity of small onions in
the plain where we encamped; had some of them collected and cooked,
found them agreeable. the bulb grows single, is of an oval form, white,
and about the size of a small bullet; the leaf resembles that of the
shive, and the hunters returned this eying with one deer only. the
country about the mouth of this river had been recently hunted by the
Minetares, and the little game which they had not killed and frightened
away, was so extreemly shy that the hunters could not get in shoot of
them.

The little Missouri disembogues on the S. side of the Missouri 1693
miles from the confluence of the latter with the Mississippi. it is 134
yards wide at it's mouth, and sets in with a bould current but it's
greatest debth is not more than 21/2 feet. it's navigation is extreemly
difficult, owing to it's rapidity, shoals and sand bars. it may however
be navigated with small canoes a considerable distance. this river
passes through the Northern extremity of the black hills where it is
very narrow and rapid and it's banks high an perpendicular. it takes
it's rise in a broken country West of the Black hills with the waters
of the yellow stone river, and a considerable distance S. W. of the
point at which it passes the black hills. the country through which it
passes is generally broken and the highlands possess but little timber.
there is some timber in it's bottom lands, which consists of Cottonwood
red Elm, with a small proportion of small Ash and box alder. the under
brush is willow, red wood, (sometimes called red or swamp willow-) the
red burry, and Choke cherry the country is extreamly broken about the
mouth of this river, and as far up on both sides, as we could observe
it from the tops of some elivated hills, which stand betwen these two
rivers, about 3 miles from their junction. the soil appears fertile and
deep, it consists generally of a dark rich loam intermixed with a small
proportion of fine sand. this river in it's course passed near the N.
W. side of the turtle mountain, which is said to be no more than 4 or 5
leagues distant from it's entrance in a straight direction, a little to
the S. of West.- this mountain and the knife river have therefore been
laid down too far S. W. the colour of the water, the bed of the river,
and it's appearance in every respect, resembles the Missouri; I am
therefore induced to believe that the texture of the soil of the
country in which it takes it's rise, and that through which it passes,
is similar to the country through which the Missouri passes after
leaving the woody country, or such as we are now in.- on the side of a
hill not distant from our camp I found some of the dwarf cedar of which
I preserved a specimen (See No. 2). this plant spreads it's limbs
alonge the surface of the earth, where they are sometimes covered, and
always put forth a number of roots on the under side, while on the
upper there are a great number of small shoots which with their leaves
seldom rise higher than 6 or eight inches. they grow so close as
perfectly to conceal the eath. it is an evergreen; the leaf is much
more delicate than the common Cedar, and it's taste and smell the same.
I have often thought that this plant would make very handsome edgings
to the borders and walks of a garden; it is quite as handsom as box,
and would be much more easily propegated.- the appearance of the
glauber salts and Carbonated wood still continue.

[Clark, April 12, 1805]
12th April Friday 1805
a fine morning Set out verry early, the murcery Stood 56° above 0.
proceeded on to the mouth of the Little Missouri river and formed a
Camp in a butifull elivated plain on the lower Side for the purpose of
takeing Some observations to fix the Latitude & Longitude of this
river. this river falls in on the L. Side and is 134 yards wide and 2
feet 6 Inches deep at the mouth, it takes its rise in the N W extremity
of the black mountains, and through a broken countrey in its whole
course washing the N W base of the Turtle Mountain which is Situated
about 6 Leagues S W of its mouth, one of our men Baptiest who came down
this river in a canoe informs me that it is not navagable, he was 45
days descending.

One of our men Shot a beaver Swimming below the mouth of this river.

I walked out on the lower Side of this river and found the countrey
hilley the Soil composed of black mole & a Small perportion of Sand
containing great quantity of Small peable Some limestone, black flint,
& Sand Stone I killed a Hare Changeing its Colour Some parts retaining
its long white fur & other parts assumeing the Short grey, I Saw the
Magpie in pars, flocks of Grouse, the old field lark & Crows, &
observed the leaf of the wild Chery half grown, many flowers are to be
seen in the plains, remains of Minetarra & Ossinneboin hunting Camps
are to be Seen on each Side of the two Missouris

The wind blew verry hard from the S. all the after part of the day, at
3 oClock P M. it became violent & flowey accompanied with thunder and a
little rain. We examined our canoes &c found Several mice which had
already commenced cutting our bags of corn & parched meal, the water of
the little Missouri is of the Same texture Colour & quallity of that of
the Big Missouri the after part of the day so Cloudy that we lost the
evening observation.

[Lewis, April 13, 1805]
Saturday April 13th
Being disappointed in my observations of yesterday for Longitude, I was
unwilling to remain at the entrance of the river another day for that
purpose, and therefore determined to set out early this morning; which
we did accordingly; the wind was in our favour after 9 A.M. and
continued favourable untill three 3 P.M. we therefore hoisted both the
sails in the White Perogue, consisting of a small squar sail, and
spritsail, which carried her at a pretty good gate, untill about 2 in
the afternoon when a suddon squall of wind struck us and turned the
perogue so much on the side as to allarm Sharbono who was steering at
the time, in this state of alarm he threw the perogue with her side to
the wind, when the spritsail gibing was as near overseting the perogue
as it was possible to have missed. the wind however abating for an
instant I ordered Drewyer to the helm and the sails to be taken in,
which was instant executed and the perogue being steered before the
wind was agin placed in a state of security. this accedent was very
near costing us dearly. beleiving this vessell to be the most steady
and safe, we had embarked on board of it our instruments, Papers,
medicine and the most valuable part of the merchandize which we had
still in reserve as presents for the Indians. we had also embarked on
board ourselves, with three men who could not swim and the squaw with
the young child, all of whom, had the perogue overset, would most
probably have perished, as the waves were high, and the perogue upwards
of 200 yards from the nearest shore; however we fortunately escaped and
pursued our journey under the square sail, which shortly after the
accident I directed to be again hoisted. our party caught three beaver
last evening; and the French hunters 7. as there was much appearance of
beaver just above the entrance of the little Missouri these hunters
concluded to remain some days; we therefore left them without the
expectation of seeing them again.- just above the entrance of the
Little Missouri the great Missouri is upwards of a mile in width, tho
immediately at the entrance of the former it is not more than 200 yards
wide and so shallow that the canoes passed it with seting poles. at the
distance of nine miles passed the mouth of a creek on the Stard. side
which we called onion creek from the quantity of wild onions which grow
in the plains on it's borders. Capt. Clark who was on shore informed me
that this creek was 16 yards wide a mile & a half above it's entrance,
discharges more water than creeks of it's size usually do in this open
country, and that there was not a stick of timber of any discription to
be seen on it's borders, or the level plain country through which it
passes. at the distance of 10 miles further we passed the mouth of a
large creek; discharging itself in the center of a deep bend. of this
creek and the neighbouring country, Capt Clark who was on shore gave me
the following discription "This creek I took to be a small river from
it's size, and the quantity of water which it discharged. I ascended it
11/2 miles, and found it the discharge of a pond or small lake, which
had the appearance of having formerly been the bed of the Missouri.
several small streems discharge themselves into this lake. the country
on both sides consists of beautifull level and elivated plains;
asscending as they recede from the Missouri; there were a great number
of Swan and gees in this lake and near it's borders I saw the remains
of 43 temperary Indian lodges, which I presume were those of the
Assinniboins who are now in the neighbourhood of the British
establishments on the Assinniboin river-" This lake and it's discharge
we call Boos Egg from the circumstance of Capt Clark shooting a goose
while on her nest in the top of a lofty cotton wood tree, from which we
afterwards took one egg. the wild gees frequently build their nests in
this manner, at least we have already found several in trees, nor have
we as yet seen any on the ground, or sand bars where I had supposed
from previous information that they most commonly deposited their eggs.-
saw some Bufhaloe and Elk at a distance today but killed none of them.
we found a number of carcases of the Buffaloe lying along shore, which
had been drowned by falling through the ice in winter and lodged on
shore by the high water when the river broke up about the first of this
month. we saw also many tracks of the white bear of enormous size,
along the river shore and about the carcases of the Buffaloe, on which
I presume they feed. we have not as yet seen one of these anamals, tho
their tracks are so abundant and recent. the men as well as ourselves
are anxious to meet with some of these bear. the Indians give a very
formidable account of the strengh and ferocity of this anamal, which
they never dare to attack but in parties of six eight or ten persons;
and are even then frequently defeated with the loss of one or more of
their party. the savages attack this anamal with their bows and arrows
and the indifferent guns with which the traders furnish them, with
these they shoot with such uncertainty and at so short a distance, that
they frequently mis their aim & fall a sacrefice to the bear. two
Minetaries were killed during the last winter in an attack on a white
bear. this anamall is said more frequently to attack a man on meeting
with him, than to flee from him. When the Indians are about to go in
quest of the white bear, previous to their departure, they paint
themselves and perform all those superstitious rights commonly observed
when they are about to make war uppon a neighbouring nation. Oserved
more bald eagles on this part of the Missouri than we have previously
seen saw the small hawk, frequently called the sparrow hawk, which is
common to most parts of the U States. great quantities of gees are seen
feeding in the praries. saw a large flock of white brant or gees with
black wings pass up the river; there were a number of gray brant with
them; from their flight I presume they proceed much further still to
the N. W.- we have never been enabled yet to shoot one of these birds,
and cannot therefore determine whether the gray brant found with the
white are their brude of the last year or whether they are the same
with the grey brant common to the Mississippi and lower part of the
Missouri.- we killed 2 Antelopes today which we found swiming from the
S. to the N. side of the river; they were very poor.- We encamped this
evening on the Stard. shore in a beautiful) plain, elivated about 30
feet above the river.

[Clark, April 13, 1805]
13th of April Satturday 1805
Set out this morning at 6 oClock, the Missouri above the mouth of
Little Missouri widens to nearly a mile containing a number of Sand
bars this width &c. of the River Continues Generally as high as the
Rochejhone River.

Cought 3 beaver this morning, at 9 miles passd. the mouth of a Creek on
the S. S. on the banks of which there is an imence quantity of wild
onions or garlick, I was up this Creek 1/2 a m. and could not See one
Stick of timber of any kind on its borders, this creek is 16 yds wide
1/2 a mile up it and discharges more water than is common for Creeks of
its Size. at about 10 miles higher we pass a Creek about 30 yards wide
in a deep bend to the N W. This creek I took to be a Small river from
its Size & the quantity of water which it discharged, I ascended it
11/2 mes and found it the discharge of a pond or Small Lake which has
appearance of haveing been once the bead of the river, Some Small
Streams discharge themselves into this Lake. the Countery on both Side
is butifull elevated plains assending in Some parts to a great distance
near the aforesaid Lake (which we call Goose egg L from a Circumstance
of my Shooting a goose on her neast on Some Sticks in the top of a high
Cotton wood tree in which there was one egg) We Saw 8 buffalow at a
distance, We also Saw Several herds of Elk at a distance which were
verry wild, I Saw near the Lake the remains of 43 lodges, which has
latterly been abandond I Suppose them to have been Ossinniboins and now
near the british establishments on the Ossinniboin River tradeing. we
camped on the S. S. in a butifull Plain. I observe more bald Eagles on
this part of the Missouri than usial also a Small Hawk Killed 2
Antelopes in the river to day emence numbers of Geese to be seen pared
&c. a Gange of brant pass one half of the gange white with black wings
or the large feathers of the 1 s & 2d joint the remds. of the comn.
color. a voice much like that of a goos & finer &c.

[Lewis, April 14, 1805]
Sunday April 14th 1805.
One of the hunters saw an Otter last evening and shot at it, but missed
it. a dog came to us this morning, which we supposed to have been lost
by the Indians who were recently encamped near the lake that we passed
yesterday. the mineral appearances of salts, coal and sulpher, together
with birnt hills & pumicestone still continue.- while we remained at
the entrance of the little Missouri, we saw several pieces of pumice
stone floating down that stream, a considerable quanty of which had
lodged against a point of drift wood a little above it's entrance.
Capt. Clark walked on shore this morning, and on his return informed me
that he had passed through the timbered bottoms on the N. side of the
river, and had extended his walk several miles back on the hills; in
the bottom lands he had met with several uninhabited Indian lodges
built with the boughs of the Elm, and in the plains he met with the
remains of two large encampments of a recent date, which from the
appearance of some hoops of small kegs, seen near them we concluded
that they must have been the camps of the Assinniboins, as no other
nation who visit this part of the missouri ever indulge themselves with
spirituous liquor. of this article the Assinniboins are pationately
fond, and we are informed that it forms their principal inducement to
furnish the British establishments on the Assinniboin river with the
dryed and pounded meat and grease which they do. they also supply those
establishments with a small quantity of fur, consisting principally of
the large and small wolves and the small fox skins. these they barter
for small kegs of ruin which they generally transport to their camps at
a distance from the establishments, where they revel with their friends
and relations as long as they possess the means of intoxication, their
women and children are equally indulged on those occations and are all
seen drunk together. so far is a state of intoxication from being a
cause of reproach among them, that with the men, it is a matter of
exultation that their skill and industry as hunters has enabled them to
get drunk frequently. in their customs, habits, and dispositions these
people very much resemble the Siouxs from whom they have descended. The
principal inducement with the British fur companies, for continuing
their establishments on the Assinniboin river, is the Buffaloe meat and
grease they procure from the Assinniboins, and Christanoes, by means of
which, they are enabled to supply provision to their engages on their
return from rainy Lake to the English river and the Athabaskey country
where they winter; without such resource those voyagers would
frequently be straitened for provision, as the country through which
they pass is but scantily supplyed with game, and the rappidity with
which they are compelled to travel in order to reach their winter
stations, would leave therm but little leasure to surch for food while
on their voyage.

The Assinniboins have so recently left this neighbourhood, that the
game is scarce and very shy. the river continues wide, and not more
rapid than the Ohio in an averge state of it's current. the bottoms are
wide and low, the moister parts containing some timber; the upland is
extreemly broken, chonsisting of high gaulded nobs as far as the eye
can reach on ether side, and entirely destitute of timber. on these
hills many aromatic herbs are seen; resembling in taste, smel and
appearance, the sage, hysop, wormwood, southernwood and two other herbs
which are strangers to me; the one resembling the camphor in taste and
smell, rising to the hight of 2 or 3 feet; the other about the same
size, has a long, narrow, smooth, soft leaf of an agreeable smel and
flavor; of this last the Atelope is very fond; they feed on it, and
perfume the hair of their foreheads and necks with it by rubing against
it. the dwarf cedar and juniper is also found in great abundance on the
sides of these hills. where the land is level, it is uniformly fertile
consisting of a dark loam intermixed with a proportion of fine sand. it
is generally covered with a short grass resembling very much the blue
grass.- the miniral appearances still continue; considerable quantities
of bitumenous water, about the colour of strong lye trickles down the
sides of the hills; this water partakes of the taste of glauber salts
and slightly of allumn.- while the party halted to take dinner today
Capt Clark killed a buffaloe bull; it was meagre, and we therefore took
the marrow bones and a small proportion of the meat only. near the
place we dined on the Lard. side, there was a large village of
burrowing squirrels. I have remarked that these anamals generally
celect a South Easterly exposure for their residence, tho they are
sometimes found in the level plains.- passed an Island, above which two
small creeks fall in on Lard side; the upper creek largest, which we
called Sharbono's Creek after our interpreter who encamped several
weeks on it with a hunting party of Indians. this was the highest point
to which any whiteman had ever ascended; except two Frenchmen who
having lost their way had straggled a few miles further, tho to what
place precisely I could not learn.- I walked on shore above this creek
and killed an Elk, which was so poor that it was unfit for uce; I
therefore left it, and joined the party at their encampment on the
Stard shore a little after dark. on my arrival Capt Clark informed me
that he had seen two white bear pass over the hills shortly after I
fired, and that they appeared to run nearly from the place where I
shot. the lard. shore on which I walked was very broken, and the hills
in many places had the appearance of having sliped down in masses of
several acres of land in surface.- we saw many gees feeding on the
tender grass in the praries and several of their nests in the trees; we
have not in a single instance found the nest of this bird on or near
the ground. we saw a number of Magpies their nests and eggs. their
nests are built in trees and composed of small sticks leaves and grass,
open at top, and much in the stile of the large blackbird comm to the U
States. the egg is of a bluish brown colour, freckled with redish brown
spots. one of the party killed a large hooting owl. I observed no
difference between this burd and those of the same family common to the
U States, except that this appeared to be more booted and more thickly
clad with feathers.-

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