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Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark

M >> Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark

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[Clark, March 28, 1805]
28th had all the Canoes, the Perogus corked pitchd & lined cover the
Cotton Wood, which is win Shaken (the Mandans feed their horses on the
cotton wood Sticks in places of corn).

[Clark, March 28, 1805]
28th of March Friday 1805
a windey Blustering Day wind S W ice running the river Blocked up in
view for the Space of 4 hours and gave way leaveing great quantity of
ice on the Shallow Sand bars. had all the canoes corked pitched &
tirred in and on the cracks and windshake which is universially in the
Cotton wood

[Clark, March 28, 1805]
March 28, 1805
25th the ice Stoped running owing to Some obstickle above all
prepareing to Set out but few Indians visit us to day they are watching
to catch the floating Buffalow which brake through the ice in Crossing,
those people are fond of those animals tainted and Catch great numbers
every Spring

[Clark, March 29, 1805]
29th of March Satturday 1805
The ice has Stoped running owing to Som obstickle above, repare the
Boat & Perogues, and prepareing to Set out but few Indians visit us to
day they are now attending on the river bank to Catch the floating
Buffalow

[Clark, March 30, 1805]
30th of March. The Ice is passing in great quantites, river ran a
little,
The Plains are on fire on both Sides of the river it is common for the
indians to Set those Plains on fire near their village for the
advantage of
early Grass for the hors & as an inducement to the Buffalow to visit
them

[Clark, March 30, 1805]
30th of March Sunday 1805
The obstickle broke away above & the ice came dow in great quantites
the river rose 13 inches the last 24 hours I observed extrodanary
dexterity of the Indians in jumping from one Cake of ice to another,
for the purpose of Catching the buffalow as they float down maney of
the Cakes of ice which they pass over are not two feet Square. The
Plains are on fire in view of the fort on both Sides of the River, it
is Said to be common for the Indians to burn the Plains near their
villages every Spring for the benifit of ther horse, and to induce the
Buffalow to come near to them.

[Clark, March 31, 1805]
31 h of March Monday 1805 Cloudy Several gangus of Ducks and Gees pass
up not much ice floating. All the party in high Spirits, but fiew
nights pass without a Dance they are helth. except the-vn. -which is
common with the Indians and have been communicated to many of our party
at this place- those favores bieng easy acquired. all Tranquille

[Clark, March 31, 1805]
31t of March Monday 1805
Cloudy Day Seven Gangs of Gees and Ducks pass up the river- but a Small
portion of ice floating down to day- but fiew Inds visit us to day all
the party in high Spirits they pass but fiew nights without amuseing
themselves danceing possessing perfect harmony and good understanding
towards each other Generally healthy except venerials complains which
is verry Commion amongst the natives and the men Catch it from them

[Clark, April 1, 1805]
April 1st 1805 we have Thunder lightning hail and rain to day the first
rain of note Sinc the 15 of October last, I had the Boat Perogus &
Canos put in the water, and expect to Set off the boat with despatches
in her will go 6 Americans 3 frenchmen, and perhaps Several ricarra
Chief imediately after we Shall assend in 2 perogus & 6 canoes,
accompanied by 5 french who intends to assend a Short distance to trap
the beavr which is in great abundance highr up our party will consist
of one Interpter & Hunter, one French man as an interpreter with his
two wives (this man Speaks Minetary to his wives who are L hiatars or
Snake Indians of the nations through which we Shall pass, and to act as
interpretress thro him)- 26 americans & french my servant and an Mandan
Indian and provisions for 4 months

[Clark, April 1, 1805]
Fort Mandan
April the 1st Tuesday 1805
The fore part of to day haile rain with Thunder & lightning, the rain
continued by intimitions all day, it is worthey of remark that this is
the 1st rain which has fallen Since we have been here or Since the 15
of October last, except a fiew drops at two or three defferent times

had the Boat Perogus & Canoes all put into the water.

[Clark, April 2, 1805]
April the 2nd a Cold rain day we are writeing and prepareing dispatches
all day- I conclude to Send my journal to the President of the United
States in its original State for his own perusial, untill I call for it
or Some friend if I should not return, an this journal is from the 13th
of May 1804 untill the 3rd of April 1805. wrote untill verry late at
night but little time to devote to my friends, the river is falling
fast.

[Clark, April 2, 1805]
April the 2nd Friday 1805
a cloudy day rained all the last night we are preparing to Set out all
thing nearly ready. The 2d Chief of the 2d Mandan Village took a miff
at our not attending to him perticelarely after being here about ten
day and moved back to his village

The mandans Killed twenty one elk yesterday 15 miles below this, they
were So meager that they Scercely fit for use

[Clark, April 3, 1805]
3rd of April we Shall pack up to day and Set out tomorrow.

[Clark, April 3, 1805]
April the 3rd Thursday 1805
a white frost this morning, Some ice on the edge of the water, a fine
day Pack up and prepare to load

Mrs. La Roche & McKinsey Clerk to the N W. Compy. visit us. Mr.
McKinzey wishes to get pay for his horse lost in our Service this
winter and one of which was robed this winter by the Tetons, we Shall
pay this man for his horse. we are all day ingaged packing up Sundery
articles to be Sent to the President of the U. S.

bow an quiver of arrows-with some Ricara's tobacco seed

No. 11 a Martin Skin, Containing the tail of a Mule Deer, a weasel and
three Squirels from the Rockey mountains.

No. 12. The bones & Skeleton of a Small burrowing wolf of the Praries
the Skin being lost by accident.

No. 99 The Skeliton of the white and Grey hare.

Box No. 2, contains 4 Buffalow Robes, and a ear of Mandan Corn.

The large Trunk Contains a male & female Brarow and female's Skeliton.

a Carrote of Ricaras Tobacco

a red fox Skin Containing a Magpie.

No. 14 Minitarras Buffalow robe Containing Some articles of Indian
dress.

No. 15 a Mandan robe containing two burrowing Squirels, a white weasel
and the Skin of a Loucirvea.

also

13 red fox Skins.

1 white Hare Skin &.

4 horns of the mountain ram

1 Robe representing a battle between the Sioux & Ricaras,
Minetarras and Mandans.

In Box No. 3.

nos. 1 & 2 The Skins of the Male & female Antelope with their
Skelitons. & the Skin of a yellow Bear which I obtained from the Scions

No. 4. Box Specimens of plants numbered from 1 to 67.

Specimens of Plants numbered frome 1 to 60.

1 Earthen pot Such as the Mandans Manufacture and use for
culinary purposes .

Box No 4 Continued

1 Tin box, containing insects mice &c. a Specimine of the fur of the
antelope.

a Specimon of a plant, and a parcel of its roots highly prized by the
natives as

an efficatious remidy in Cases of the bite of the rattle Snake or Mad
Dog.

In a large Trunk

Skins of a Male and female Braro, or burrowing Dog of the Prarie, with
the Skeliton of the female.

1 Skin of the red fox Containing a Magpie.

2 Cased Skins of the white hare.

1 Minitarra Buffalow robe Containing Some articles of Indian Dress

1 Mandan Buffalow robe Containing a dressed Lousirva Skin, and 2 Cased
Skins of the Burrowing Squirel of the Praries.

13 red fox Skins

4 Horns of the Mountain Ram or big horn.

1 Buffalow robe painted by a mandan man representing a battle fought 8
years Since by the Sioux & Ricaras against the mandans, menitarras & Ah
wah bar ways (Mandans &c. on horseback)

Cage No. 6.

Contains a liveing burrowing Squirel of the praries

Cage No. 7.

Contains 4 liveing magpies

Cage No. 9.

Containing a liveing hen of the Prarie

a large par of Elks horns containing by the frontal bone-

[Clark, April 4, 1805]
April the 4th 1805 Wednesday
a blustering windey Day the Clerks of the N W. Co. leave us we are
arrangeing all things to Set out &c.

[Clark, April 5, 1805]
April the 5th 1805 Thursday
we have our 2 perogues & Six Canoes loaded with our Stores &
provisions, principally provisions. the wind verry high from the N W. a
number of Mandans visit us to day

[Clark, April 6, 1805]
April the 6th Friday Saturday 1805
a fine day visited by a number of mandans, we are informed of the
arrival of the whole of the ricarra nation on the other Side of the
river near their old village. we Sent an interpreter to See with orders
to return imediately and let us know if their Chiefs ment to go down to
See their great father.

[Lewis, April 7, 1805]
Fort Mandan April 7th 1805.
Having on this day at 4 P.M. completed every arrangement necessary for
our departure, we dismissed the barge and crew with orders to return
without loss of time to S. Louis, a small canoe with two French hunters
accompanyed the barge; these men had assended the missouri with us the
last year as engages. The barge crew consisted of six soldiers and two
____ Frenchmen; two Frenchmen and a Ricara Indian also take their
passage in her as far as the Ricara Vilages, at which place we expect
Mr. Tiebeau to embark with his peltry who in that case will make an
addition of two, perhaps four men to the crew of the barge. We gave
Richard Warfington, a discharged Corpl., the charge of the Barge and
crew, and confided to his care likewise our dispatches to the
government, letters to our private friends, and a number of articles to
the President of the United States. One of the Frenchmen by the Name of
Gravline an honest discrete man and an excellent boat-man is imployed
to conduct the barge as a pilot; we have therefore every hope that the
barge and with her our dispatches will arrive safe at St. Louis. Mr.
Gravlin who speaks the Ricara language extreemly well, has been
imployed to conduct a few of the Recara Chiefs to the seat of
government who have promised us to decend in the barge to St. Liwis
with that view.-

At same moment that the Barge departed from Fort Mandan, Capt. Clark
embaked with our party and proceeded up the river. as I had used no
exercise for several weeks, I determined to walk on shore as far as our
encampment of this evening; accordingly I continued my walk on the N.
side of the River about six miles, to the upper Village of the Mandans,
and called on the Black Cat or Pose cop'se ha, the great chief of the
Mandans; he was not at home; I rested myself a minutes, and finding
that the party had not arrived I returned about 2 miles and joined them
at their encampment on the N. side of the river opposite the lower
Mandan village. Our party now consisted of the following Individuals.
Sergts. John Ordway, Nathaniel Prior, & Patric Gass; Privates, William
Bratton, John Colter, Reubin, and Joseph Fields, John Shields, George
Gibson, George Shannon, John Potts, John Collins, Joseph Whitehouse,
Richard Windsor, Alexander Willard, Hugh Hall, Silas Goodrich, Robert
Frazier, Peter Crouzatt, John Baptiest la Page, Francis Labiech, Hue
McNeal, William Werner, Thomas P. Howard, Peter Wiser, and John B.
Thompson.

Interpreters, George Drewyer and Tauasant Charbono also a Black man by
the name of York, servant to Capt. Clark, an Indian Woman wife to
Charbono with a young child, and a Mandan man who had promised us to
accompany us as far as the Snake Indians with a view to bring about a
good understanding and friendly intercourse between that nation and his
own, the Minetares and Ahwahharways.

Our vessels consisted of six small canoes, and two large perogues. This
little fleet altho not quite so rispectable as those of Columbus or
Capt. Cook were still viewed by us with as much pleasure as those
deservedly famed adventurers ever beheld theirs; and I dare say with
quite as much anxiety for their safety and preservation. we were now
about to penetrate a country at least two thousand miles in width, on
which the foot of civillized man had never trodden; the good or evil it
had in store for us was for experiment yet to determine, and these
little vessells contained every article by which we were to expect to
subsist or defend ourselves. however as this the state of mind in which
we are, generally gives the colouring to events, when the immagination
is suffered to wander into futurity, the picture which now presented
itself to me was a most pleasing one. entertaing as I do, the most
confident hope of succeading in a voyage which had formed a darling
project of mine for the last ten years, I could but esteem this moment
of my departure as among the most happy of my life. The party are in
excellent health and sperits, zealously attatched to the enterprise,
and anxious to proceed; not a whisper of murmur or discontent to be
heard among them, but all act in unison, and with the most perfect
harmony. I took an early supper this evening and went to bed. Capt.
Clark myself the two Interpretters and the woman and child sleep in a
tent of dressed skins. this tent is in the Indian stile, formed of a
number of dressed Buffaloe skins sewed together with sinues. it is cut
in such manner that when foalded double it forms the quarter of a
circle, and is left open at one side where it may be attatched or
loosened at pleasure by strings which are sewed to its sides to the
purpose. to erect this tent, a parsel of ten or twelve poles are
provided, fore or five of which are attatched together at one end, they
are then elivated and their lower extremities are spread in a circular
manner to a width proportionate to the demention of the lodge, in the
same position orther poles are leant against those, and the leather is
then thrown over them forming a conic figure.

[Clark, April 7, 1805]
7th of April Satturday 1805"
a windey day, The Interpreter we Sent to the Villages returned with
Chief of the Ricara's & 3 men of that nation this Chief informed us
that he was Sent by his nation to Know the despositions of the nations
in this neighbourhood in respect to the recara's Settleing near them,
that he had not yet made those arrangements, he request that we would
Speek to the Assinniboins, & Crow Inds. in their favour, that they
wished to follow our directions and be at peace with all, he viewed all
nations in this quarter well disposed except the Sioux. The wish of
those recaras appears to be a junction with the Mandans & Minetarras in
a Defensive war with the Sioux who rob them of every Spece of property
in Such a manner that they Cannot live near them any longer. I told
this Chief we were glad to See him, and we viewed his nation as the
Dutifull Children of a Great father who would extend his protection to
all those who would open their ears to his good advice, we had already
Spoken to the Assinniboins, and Should Speeke to the Crow Indians if we
Should See them &c. as to the Sioux their Great father would not let
them have any more good Guns &c. would take Care to prosu Such measurs
as would provent those Sioux from Murding and taking the property from
his dutyfull red Children &c.- we gave him a certificate of his good
Conduct & a Small Medal, a Carrot of Tobacco and a String of Wompom- he
requested that one of his men who was lame might decend in the boat to
their nation and returned to the Mandans well Satisfied

The name of this Chief of War is Kah-kah, we to-Raven brave.

This Cheif delivered us a letter from Mr. Taboe. informing us of the
wish of the Grand Chiefs of the Ricarras to visit their Great father
and requesting the privolage of put'g on board the boat 3000 w of Skins
&c. & adding 4 hands and himself to the party. this preposeal we Shall
agree to, as that addition will make the party in the boat 15 Strong
and more able to defend themselves from the Seoux &c.

[Clark, April 7, 1805]
Fort Mandan April 7th 1805"
Sunday, at 4 oClock P M, the Boat, in which was 6 Soldiers 2 frenchmen
& an Indian, all under the command of a corporal who had the charge of
dispatches, &c.-and a Canoe with 2 french men, Set out down the river
for St. Louis. at the same time we Sout out on our voyage up the river
in 2 perogues and 6 canoes, and proceded on to the 1st villg. of
Mandans & Camped on the S. S.- our party consisting of Sergt. Nathaniel
Pryor Sgt. John Ordway Sgt. Pat. Gass, William Bratten, John Colter
Joseph & Reubin Fields, John Shields George Gibson George Shannon, John
Potts, John Collins, Jos. Whitehouse, Richard Windser, Alexander
Willard, Hugh Hall, Silas Gutrich, Robert Frazure, Peter Crouzat, John
Baptiest la page, Francis Labich, Hugh McNeal, William Werner, Thomas
P. Howard, Peter Wiser, J. B. Thompson and my Servent york, George
Drewyer who acts as a hunter & interpreter, Shabonah and his Indian
Squar to act as an Interpreter & interpretress for the snake
Indians-one Mandan & Shabonahs infant. Sah-kah-gar we a

[Lewis, April 8, 1805]
April 8th Set out early this morning, the wind blew hard against us
from the N. W. we therefore traveled very slowly. I walked on shore,
and visited the black Cat, took leave of him after smoking a pipe as is
their custom, and then proceeded on slowly by land about four miles
where I wated the arrival of the party, at 12 Oclock they came up and
informed me that one of the small canoes was behind in distress. Capt
Clark returned foud she had filled with water and all her loading wet.
we lost half a bag of hisquit, and about thirty pounds of powder by
this accedent; the powder we regard as a serious loss, but we spread it
to dry immediately and hope we shall still be enabled to restore the
greater part of it. this was the only powder we had which was not
perfectly secure from geting wet. we took dinner at this place, and
then proceed on to oure encampment, which was on the S. side opposite
to a high bluff. the Mandan man came up after we had encamped and
brought with him a woman who was extreemly solicitous to accompany one
of the men of our party, this however we positively refused to permit.

From the upper point on an island (being the point to which Capt. Clark
took his last course when he assended the river in surch of a place for
winter quarters 1st November last) to a point of wood land Stard side,
passing a high bluff on the Lard. N 40° W. 31/2

[Clark, April 8, 1805]
8th of April Monday 1805
Set out verry early wind hard a head from the N. W. proceeded on passed
all the villages the inhabitents of which flocked down in great numbers
to view us, I took my leave of the great Chief of the Mandans who gave
me a par of excellent mockersons, one Canoe filed with water every
thing in her got wet. 2/3 of a barrel of powder lost by this accedent.

Camped on the S. S. opsd. a high bluff an Indian joined us, also an
Indian woman with a view to accompany us, the woman was Sent back the
man being acquainted with the Countrey we allowed him to accompanie ns

[Lewis, April 9, 1805]
Tuesday April 9th
Set out as early as it was possible to see this morning and proceed
about five miles where we halted and took beakfas- the Indian man who
had promised us to accompany us as far as the Snake Indians, now
informed us of his intention to relinquish the journey, and accordingly
returned to his village. we saw a great number of brant passing up the
river, some of them were white, except the large feathers in the first
and second joint of the wing which are black. there is no other
difference between them and the common gray brant but that of their
colour- their note and habits are the same, and they are freequently
seen to associate together. I have not yet positively determined
whether they are the same, or a different species.- Capt Clark walked
on shore to-day and informed me on his return, that passing through the
prarie he had seen an anamal that precisely resembled the burrowing
squrril, accept in point of size, it being only about one third as
large as the squirrel, and that it also burrows. I have observed in
many parts of the plains and praries the work of an anamal of which I
could never obtain a view. their work resembles that of the salamander
common to the sand hills of the States of South Carolina and Georgia;
and like that anamal also it never appears above the ground. the little
hillocks which are thrown up by these anamals have much the appearance
of ten or twelve pounds of loose earth poared out of a vessel on the
surface of the plain. in the state they leave them you can discover no
whole through which they throw out this earth; but by removing the
loose earth gently you may discover that the soil has been broken in a
circle manner for about an inch and a half in diameter, where it
appears looser than the adjacent surface, and is certainly the place
through which the earth has been thrown out, tho the operation is
performed without leaving any visible aperture.- the Bluffs of the
river which we passed today were upwards of a hundred feet high, formed
of a mixture of yellow clay and sand- many horizontal stratas of
carbonated wood, having every appearance of pitcoal at a distance; were
seen in the the face of these bluffs. these stratas are of unequal
thicknesses from I to 5 feet, and appear at different elivations above
the water some of them as much as eighty feet. the hills of the river
are very broken and many of them have the apearance of having been on
fire at some former period. considerable quantities of pumice stone and
lava appear in many parts of these hills where they are broken and
washed down by the rain and melting snow. when we halted for dinner the
squaw busied herself in serching for the wild artichokes which the mice
collect and deposit in large hoards. this operation she performed by
penetrating the earth with a sharp stick about some small collections
of drift wood. her labour soon proved successful, and she procurrd a
good quantity of these roots. the flavor of this root resembles that of
the Jerusalem Artichoke, and the stalk of the weed which produces it is
also similar, tho both the root and stalk are much smaller than the
Jarusalem Artichoke. the root is white and of an ovate form, from one
to three inches in length and usually about the size of a man's finger.
one stalk produces from two to four, and somitimes six of these roots.

at the distance of 6 miles passed a large wintering or hunting camp of
the Minetares on the Stard. side. these lodges about thirty in number
are built of earth and timber in their usual stile. 21/4 miles higher
we passed the entrance of Miry Creek, which discharges itself on the
Stard. side. this creek is but small, takes it's rise in some small
lakes near the Mouse river and passes in it's course to the Missouri,
through beatifull, level, and fertile plains, intirely destitute of
timber.- Three miles above the mouth of this creek we passed a hunting
camp of Minetares who had prepared a park and were wating the return of
the Antelope; which usually pass the Missouri at this season of the
year from the Black hills on the South side, to the open plains on the
north side of the river; in like manner the Antelope repasses the
Missouri from N. to South in the latter end of Autumn, and winter in
the black hills, where there is considerable bodies of woodland. we
proceed on 111/2 miles further and encamped on the N. side in a most
beatifull high extensive open bottom

[Clark, April 9, 1805]
9th of April Tuesday 1805.
Set out this morning verry early under a gentle breeze from the S. E.
at Brackfast the Indian deturmined to return to his nation. I saw a
Musquetor to day great numbers of Brant flying up the river, the Maple,
& Elm has buded & Cotton and arrow wood beginning to bud. I saw in the
prarie an animal resembling the Prarie dog or Barking Squirel & burrow
in the Same way, this animal was about 1/3 as large as the barking
Squirel. But fiew resident birds or water fowls which I have Seen as
yet at 6 miles passed an old hunting camp of Menitarrees on the S. S.
21/2 miles higher passed the mouth of Miry Creek on the S. S. passed a
hunting Camp of Minetarees on the S. S. waiting the return of the
Antilope, Saw Great numbers of Gees feedin in the Praries on the young
grass, I saw flowers in the praries to day, juniper grows on the Sides
of the hills, & runs on the ground all the hills have more or Less
indefferent Coal in Stratias at different bites from the waters edge to
80 feet. those Stratias from 1 inch to 5 feet thick. we Campd. on the
S. S. above some rocks makeing out in the river in a butifull ellivated
plain.

[Lewis, April 10, 1805]
Wednesday April 10th 1805.
Set out at an early hour this morning at the distance of three miles
passed some Minetares who had assembled themselves on the Lard shore to
take a view of our little fleet. Capt Clark walked on shore today, for
several hours, when he returned he informed me that he had seen a gang
of Antelopes in the plains but was unable to get a shoot at them he
also saw some geese and swan. the geese are now feeding in considerable
numbers on the young grass which has sprung up in the bottom prariesthe
Musquetoes were very troublesome to us today. The country on both sides
of the missouri from the tops of the river hills, is one continued
level fertile plain as far as the eye can reach, in which there is not
even a solitary tree or shrub to be seen except such as from their
moist situations or the steep declivities of hills are sheltered from
the ravages of the fire. at the distance of 12 miles from our
encampment of last night we arrived at the lower point of a bluff on
the Lard side; about 11/2 miles down this bluff from this point, the
bluff is now on fire and throws out considerable quantities of smoke
which has a strong sulphurious smell. the appearance of the coal in the
blufs continues as yesterday. at 1 P.M. we overtook three french
hunters who had set out a few days before us with a view of traping
beaver; they had taken 12 since they left Fort Mandan. these people
avail themselves of the protection which our numbers will enable us to
give them against the Assinniboins who sometimes hunt on the Missouri
and intend ascending with us as far as the mouth of the Yellow stone
river and continue there hunt up that river. this is the first essay of
a beaver hunter of any discription on this river. the beaver these
people have already taken is by far the best I have ever seen. the
river bottoms we have passed to-day are wider and possess more timber
than usualthe courant of the Missouri is but moderate, at least not
greater than that of the Ohio in high tide; it's banks are falling in
but little; the navigation is therefore comparitively with it's lower
portion easy and safe.- we encamped this evening on a willow point,
Stard. side just above a remarkable bend in the river to the S. W.
which we called the little bason.-

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