Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark
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[Clark, October 19, 1804]
19th October Friday 1804
a fine morning wind from the S. E. we Set out early under a gentle
Breeze and proceeded on verry well, more timber than Common on the
banks on this part of the river- passed a large Pond on the S. S.- I
walked out on the Hills & observed Great numbers of Buffalow feedeing
on both Sides of the river I counted 52 Gangues of Buffalow & 3 of Elk
at one view, all the runs which come from the high hills which is
Generally about one or 2 miles from the water is brackish and near the
Hills (the Salts are) and the Sides of the Hills & edges of the
Streems, the mineral salts appear I saw Som remarkable round hills
forming a Cone at top one about 90 foot one 60 & Several others
Smaller, the Indian Chief Say that the Callemet bird live in the holes
of those hills, the holes form by the water washing thro Some parts in
its passage Down from the top- near one of those noles, on a point of a
hill 90 feet above the lower plane I observed the remains of an old
village, which had been fortified, the Indian Chief with us tels me, a
party of Mandins lived there, Here first saw ruins of Mandan nation we
proceeded on & Camped on the L. S. opposit the upper of those Conocal
hills our hunters killed 4 Elk 6 Deer & a pelican, I saw Swans in a
Pond & Killed a fat Deer in my walk, Saw above 10 wolves. This day is
pleasent
[Clark, October 20, 1804]
20th of October 1804 wind from the S E, I walked out to view those
remarkable places pointed out by Evens, and continud all day Saw an old
Village of the Mandans below the Chess chi ter R. appear to have been
fortified above the village on the Same L. S. is a coal bank where we
Campd. passed a Small Creek on the S. S. and an Island on the L. S
Covered with willows Small Cotton the Countrey thro which I passed this
day is Delightfull, Timber in the bottoms, Saw great nos. of Buffalow
Elk Goats & Deer as we were in want of them I Killed 3 Deer, our
hunters 10 Deer and wounded a white Bear, I Saw Several fresh tracks of
that animal double the Sise of the largest track I ever Saw, great
numbers of wolves, those animals follow the buffalow and devour, those
that die or are Killed, and those too fat or pore to Keep up with the
gangue
[Clark, October 20, 1804]
20th of October Satterday 1804
Set out early this morning and proceeded on the wind from the S. E
after brackfast I walked out on the L. Side to See those remarkable
places pointed out by Evins, I saw an old remains of a villige on the
Side of a hill which the Chief with us Too ne tels me that nation lived
in a number villages on each Side of the river and the Troubleson
Seauex caused them to move about 40 miles higher up where they remained
a fiew years & moved to the place they now live, (2) passed a Small
Creek on the S. S. (3) and one on the L. S. passed (4) a Island Covered
with willows laying in the middle of the river no current on the L. S.
Camped on the L. S. above a Bluff containing Coal (5) of an inferior
quallity, this bank is imedeately above the old village of the Mandans-
The Countrey is fine, the high hills at a Distanc with gradual assents,
I Kild 3 Deer The Timber Confined to the bottoms as usial which is much
larger than below. Great numbers of Buffalow Elk & Deer, Goats. our
hunters killed 10 Deer & a Goat to day and wounded a white Bear I saw
Several fresh track of those animals which is 3 times as large as a
mans track-, The wind hard all Day from the N. E. & East, great numbers
of buffalow Swiming the river
I observe near all large gangues of buffalow wolves and when the
buffalow move those Anamals follow and feed on those that are killed by
accident or those that are too pore or fat to Keep up with the gangue.
[Lewis, October 20, 1804]
20th October
Peter Crusat this day shot at a white bear he wounded him, but being
alarmed at the formidable appearance of the bear he left his tomahalk
and gun; but shortly after returned and found that the bear had taken
the oposite rout.- soon after he shot a buffaloe cow broke her thy, the
cow pursued him he concealed himself in a small raviene.-
[Clark, October 21, 1804]
21t of October Sunday 1804 a verry Cold night wind hard from the N. E.
Some rain in the night which feesed as it fell, at Day began to Snow
and Continued all the fore part of the day, at 1/4 of a mile passed the
Mouth of Chess-che tar (or Heart) River L. S. 38 yards wide, this river
heads near Turtle mountain with Knife River on this River is a Smothe
Stone which the Indians have great fath in & Consult the Stone on all
great occasions which they Say Marks or Simblems are left on the Stone
of what is to take place &c. an old mandan Village above the mouth of
this Little River, I saw a Single tree in the open Plains which the
Mandans formerly paid great Devotion to run Cords thro their flesh &
tie themselves to the tree to make them brave, passed an old Village on
a Small run on the S S. one on the bank L. and Camped, I Killed a fat
Buffalow this evening- Little gun all my hunting
[Clark, October 21, 1804]
21st October Sunday 1804
a verry Cold night wind hard from the N. E Some rain in the night which
frosed up it fell at Day light it began to Snow and Continud all the
fore part of the Day passed just above our Camp (1) a Small river on
the L. S. Called by the Indians Chiss-Cho-tar this river is about 38
yards wide Containing a good Deel of water Some Distance up this River
is Situated a Stone which the Indians have great fath in & Say they See
painted on the Stone, "all the Calemites & good fortune to hapin the
nation & partes who visit it"- a tree (an oak) which Stands alone near
this place about 2 miles off in the open prarie which has with Stood
the fire they pay Great respect to, make Holes and tie Strings thro the
Skins of their necks and around this tree to make them brave (all this
is the information of Too ne is a whipper will) the Chief of the
Ricares who accompanied us to the Mandins, at 2 miles (2) passed the
2nd Villages of the Manden, which was in existance at the Same time
with the 1st this village is at the foot of a hill on the S. S. on a
butifull &extensive plain - at this time Covered with Buffalow- a
Cloudy afternoon, I killed a fine Buffalow, we Camped on the L. S.
verry Cold ground Covered with Snow. one orter KIM.
[Clark, October 22, 1804]
22nd of October 1804 last night at about 1 oClock I was violently
attacked with Rhumetism in my neck, which was so violently I could not
move, Cap L. applied a hot Stone raped in flannel which gave temperry
ease, we passed a War party of Tetons on their way as we Supposed to
the Mandans of 12 men on the L. S. we gave them nothing and refused to
put them across the river, passed 2 old Villages at the mouth of a
large Creek L. S and a Small Island at the head of which is a bad
place, an old Village on the S. S. and the upper of the 6 Villages the
Mandans occupied about 25 years ago this village was entirely cut off
by the Sioux & one of the others nearly, the Small Pox distroyed great
Numbers
[Clark, October 22, 1804]
22nd October Monday 1804
last night at 1 oClock I was violently and Suddinly attacked with the
Rhumitism in the neck which was So violent I could not move Capt.
applied a hot Stone raped in flannel, which gave me some temporry
ease,-. we Set out early, the morning Cold at 7 oClock we Came too at a
Camp of Teton Seaux on the L. S. those people 12 in number were naikd
and had the appearanc of war, we have every reason to believ that they
are going or have been to Steel horses from the Mandins, they tell two
Stories, we gave them nothing after takeing brackfast proceeded on- my
Neck is yet verry painfull at times Spasms.
Camped on the L Side, passed an Island Situated on the L. Side at the
head of which & Mandans village S. S. we passd a bad place- The hunters
killed a buffalow bull, they Say out of about 300 buffalow which they
Saw, they did not See one Cow. Great Deel of Beaver Sign. Several
Cought every night.
[Clark, October 23, 1804]
23rd of October 1804 Some Snow, passed 5 Lodges fortified the place the
two french men were robed Those are the hunting Camps of the mandans,
who has latterly left them. we camped on the L. S.
[Clark, October 23, 1804]
23rd of October Tuesday 1804
a cloudy morning Some Snow Set out early pass five Lodges which was
Diserted, the fires yet burning we Suppose those were the Indians who
robed the 2 french Trappers a fiew days ago those 2 men are now with us
going up with a view to get their property from the Indians thro us.
cold & Cloudy camped on The L. S. of the river
[Clark, October 24, 1804]
24th of October Cloudy Some little Snow (my Rhumetism Continue, not So
bad as the 2 last days,) a butufull Countrey on both Sides, bottoms
covered with wood, we See no game to day, passed an old village of a
Band of Me ne tarres Called Mah har ha where they lived 40 year ago on
the L. S. Came too on an Island Caused by the river cutting through a
narrow point 7 years ago, on this Island we wer visited by the grand
Chief of the mandans a 2d Chief and Some other, who wer Camped on the
Island, those Chief met our Ricarra Chief with great Corduallity, &
Smoked together Cap Lewis Visited the Camps 5 Lodges, and proceeded on
& Camped near a 2d Camp of Mandans on the S. S. nearly opposit the old
Ricara & Manden Village which the Ricarras abandaned in the year 1789
[Clark, October 24, 1804]
24th October Wednesday 1804
Set out early a Cloudy day Some little Snow in the morning I am
Something better of the Rhumutim in my neck- a butifull Countrey on
both Sides of the river. The bottoms Covd. with wood, we have Seen no
game on the river to day a prof of the Indians hunting in the
neighbourhod (1) passed a Island on the S. S. made by the river Cutting
through a point, by which the river is Shortened Several miles- on this
Isld. we Saw one of the Grand Chiefs of the Mandins, with five Lodges
hunting, this Cheif met the Chief of the Ricares who accompanied us
with great Cordiallity & Sermony Smoked the pipe & Capt. Lewis with the
Interpeter went with the Chiefs to his Lodges at 1 mile distant, after
his return we admited the Grand Chief & his brother for a few minits on
our boat. proceeded on a Short distance and Camped on the S. S. below
the old Village of the Mandins & ricares.- Soon after our landg. 4
Mandins Came from a Camp above, the Ricares Chief went with them to
their Camp,
25th of October Thursday 1804.
a Gentle Breeze from the S. E by E passed an (1) old Village on a high
Plain where the Mandans onced lived & after they left the Village &
moved higher the Ricaras took possession & live until 1799 when they
abandoned it & flew from the just revenge of the Mandans, a verry
extensive Bottom above the Village above the Center of which (2) the
Mandans lived in the 2 villages on the L. 5., but little timber-
Several parties of Indians on each Side of the River going up. in view
in every directions- we are informed that the Sioux has latterly taken
horses from the Big Bellies or Minitaries and on their way homerwards
they fell in with the Assinniboins who killed them and took the horses
& a frenchman Menard who resided with the Mandan for 20 years past was
Killed a fiew days ago on his way from the Britishment astablishments
on the Assineboin River, 150 miles N. of this place to the mandans by
the assinniboin Indians- we were frequently Called to by parties of
Indians & requested to land & talk, passed a verry bad place & Camped
on a Point S S. opposit a high hill Several Indians visit us this
evening the Sun of the late great Chief of the Mandans who had 2 of his
fingers off and appeared to be pearced in maney places on inquiring the
reason, was informed that it was a testimony to their grief for
Deceased freinds, they frequently Cut off Sevral fingers & pierced
themselves in Different parts, a Mark of Savage effection, wind hard
from the S. W. verry Cold R Fields with a Rhumitisum in his Neck one
man R. in his hips my Self much better, Those Indians appear to have
Similar Customs with the Ricaras, their Dress the Same more mild in
their language & justures &c. &c.
[Clark, October 25, 1804]
25th of October Thursday 1804
a Cold morning Set out early under a gentle Breeze from the S. E. by E
proceeded on, passed (1) the 3rd old Village of the Mandans which has
been Desd. for many years, This village was Situated on an eminance of
about 40 foot above the water on the L. S. back for Several miles is a
butifull plain (2) at a Short distance above this old village on a
Continuation of the Same eminance was Situated the which have been
avacuated only Six years, above this village a large and extensive
bottom for Several miles in which the Squars raised ther Corn, but
little timber near the villages, on the S. S. below is a point of
excellent timber, and in the point Several miles above is fine timber,
Several parties of Mandins rode to the river on the S. S. to view us
indeed they are continuelly in Sight Satisying their Curiossities as to
our apperance &c. we are told that the Seaux has latterly fallen in
with & Stole the horses of the Big belley, on their way home they fell
in with the Ossiniboin who killed them and took the horses- a frenchman
has latterly been killed by the Indians on the Track to the tradeing
establishment on the Ossinebine R. in the North of this place (or
British fort) This frenchman has lived many years with the Mandins- we
were frequently called on to land & talk to parties of the Mandins on
the Shore, wind Shifted to the S. W at about 11 oClock and blew hard
untill 3 OCk. clouded up river full of Sand bars & we are at a great
loss to find the Channel of the river, frequently run on the Sand bars
which Detain us much passed a verry bad riffle of rocks in the evining
by takeing the L. S. of a Sand bar and Camped on a Sand point on the S.
S. opposit a high hill on the L. S. Several Indians Come to See us this
evening, amongst others the Sun of the late great Cheif of the Mandins,
this man has his two little fingers off-; on inqureing the Cause, was
told it was Customary for this nation to Show their greaf by Some
testimony of pain, and that it was not uncommon for them to take off 2
Smaller fingers of the hand and Some times more with ther marks of
Savage effection
The wind blew verry hard this evening from the S. W. verry Cold
R. Fields with the rhumitim in his neck, P. Crusat with the Same
Complaint in his Legs- the party other wise is well, as to my Self I
feel but Slight Simptoms of that disorder at this time,
[Clark, October 26, 1804]
26th of October 1804
wind from the S. E we Set the Ricara Chief on Shore with Some Mandans,
many on each Side veiwing of us, we took in 2 Chiefs (Coal and Big Man)
and halted a feiw minits at their Camps, on the L. S. fortified in
their way, here we Saw a trader from the Ossinniboin River Called
McCracken, this man arrived 9 day ago with goods to trade for horses &
Roabs one other man with him- we Camped on the L. Side a Short distanc
below the r st rnandan village on the L. S. many men women & Children
flocked down to See us- Capt Lewis walked to the Village with the Chief
and interpeters, my Rheumitism increasing prevented me from going also,
and we had Deturmined that both would not leave the boat at the Same
time untill we Knew the Desposition of the Nativs, Some Chieef visited
me & I Smoked with them- they appeared delighted with the Steel Mill
which we were obliged to use, also with my black Servent, Capt Lewis
returned late
[Clark, October 26, 1804]
26th of October Friday 1804
Set out early wind from the S W proceeded on Saw numbers of the Mandins
on Shore, we Set the Ricare Chief on Shore, and we proceeded on to the
Camp of two of their Grand Chiefs where we delayed a fiew minits, with
the Chiefs and proceeded on takeing two of their Chiefs on board & Some
of the heavy articles of his house hole, Such as earthen pots & Corn,
proceeded on, at this Camp Saw a McCracken Englishmon from the N. W
Company this mana Came nine Days ago to trade for horses & Buffalo
robes,- one other man Came with him. the Indians Continued on the banks
all day- but little wood on this part of the river, many Sand bars and
bad places, water much devided between them
for the 26th. Octr. we came too and Camped on the L. S. about 1/2 a
mile below the ist. Manddin Town on the L. S. Soon after our arrival
many men womin & Children flocked down to See us, Capt Lewis walked to
the village with the principal Chiefs and our interpters, my rhumatic
Complaint increasing I could not go- if I was well only one would have
left the Boat & party untill we new the Disposition of the Inds. I
Smoked with the Cheifs who Came after. Those people apd much pleased
with the Corn mill which we were obliged to use, & was fixed in the
boat.
[Clark, October 27, 1804]
27th of October Satturday 1804 we Set out early and Came too at the
village on the L. S. where we delayed a few minits, I walked to a
Chiefs Logg & Smoked with them, but Could not eat, which did displease
them a little, here I met with a Mr. Jessomme, who lived in this nation
13 years, I got him to interpet & he proceedd on with us we proceeded
on to a Centeral point opposit the Knife River, & formed a Camp on the
S. S. above the 2d Mandan village & opsd. the Mah-har-ha village- and
raised a flag Staff- Capt Lewis & the Intepeters walked down to the 2d
Village of Mandans, & returned in about an hour, we Sent 3 Carrotes of
tobacco to the other villages & enviting them to come down and Council
with us tomorrow,- we endeaver to precure Some Knowledge of the
principal Chiefs of the Different nations &.- well to give my ideas as
to the impression thais man makes on me is a Cunin artfull an insoncear
- he tels me he was once empld. by my brother in the Illinois & of his
description I conceve as a Spye upon the British of Michillinicknac &
St Joseph,s we think he may be made use full to us & do employ him as
an interpeter- no. of Indians bring their wives &c. to the campes of
our party on Shore &c.
[Clark, October 27, 1804]
27th of October Satturday 1804
we Set out arly Came too at this Village on the L. S. this village is
Situated on an eminance of about 50 feet above the Water in a handson
Plain it Containes houses in a kind of Picket work. the houses are
round and Verry large Containing Several families, as also their horses
which is tied on one Side of the enterance, a Discription of those
houses will be given hereafter, I walked up & Smoked a pipe with the
Cheifs of this Village they were anxious that I would Stay and eat with
them, my indisposition provented my eating which displeased them,
untill a full explination took place, I returned to the boat and Sent 2
Carrots of Tobacco for them to Smoke, and proceeded on, passed the 2d
Village and Camped opsd. the Village of the Weter Soon or ah wah bar
ways which is Situated on an eminance in a plain on the L. S. this
Village is Small and Contains but fiew inhabitents. above this village
& also above the Knife river on the Same Side of the Missouri the Big
bellies Towns are Situated a further Discription will be given here
after as also of the Town of Mandans on this Side of the river i e S.
Side
a fine worm Day we met with a french man by the name of jassamme which
we imploy as an interpeter This man has a wife & Children in the
Village- Great numbers on both Sides flocked down to the bank to view
us as wee passed.
Capt. Lewis with the Interpetr. walked down to the village below our
Camp After delaying one hour he returned and informed me the Indians
had returned to their village &c., &c., we Sent three Carrots of
Tobacco by three young men, to the three Villages above inviting them
to come Down & Council with us tomorrow. many Indians Came to view us
Some Stayed all night in the Camp of our party- we procured Some
information of Mr. Jessomme of the Chiefs of the Different Nations
[Clark, October 28, 1804]
28th of October 1804
the wind So hard from the S. W. We could not meet the Indians in
Councils, those who visited us we Sent to the nearest village,
Consulted the Black Cat M Chief about the Chiefs of the Different
Villages, who gave his Oppinion to us.
[Clark, October 28, 1804]
Sunday 28th of October 1804
a windey Day, fair and Clear many of the Grosvantres (or Big Bellies)
and Watersons Came to See us and hear the Council the wind being So
violently hard from the S. W. provented our going into Councel, (indeed
the Chiefs of the Manodans from the lower Village Could not Cross, we
made up the presents and entertained Several of the Curious Cheifs
whome, wished to See the Boat which was verry Curious to them viewing
it as great medison, as they also viewed my black Servent The Black Cat
Grand Chief of the Mandans, Capt Lewis & my Self with an Interpeter
walked up the river about 11/2 miles our views were to examine the
Situation & Timbers for a fort, we found the Situation good but the
Timber Scerce, or at least Small timbr Such as would answer us-, we
Cunsulted the Grand Chief in respect to the other Chiefs of the
Defferent Villages he gave the names of 12- George Drewyer Cought 2
Beaver above our Camp last night, we had Several presents from the
Woman of Corn boild homney, Soft Corn &c. &c. I prosent ajar to the
Chiefs wife who recved it with much pleasure our men verry Chearfull
this evening- we Sent the Cheifs of the Gross Vantres to Smoke a pipe
with the Grand Chef of the Mandins in his Village, & told them we would
Speek tomorrow.
[Clark, October 29, 1804]
29th of October 1804 a fine morning after Brackfast we were Visited by
the Old Chief of the Big Bellies or me ne tar res, this Man has Given
his power to his Son who is now on a war party against the Snake
Indians who inhabit the Rockey Mountains, the S W wind verry high- we
met in Council under an orning and our Sales Stretched round to keep
out as much wind as possible & Delivered a long Speach Similar to what
had been Said to the nations below, the old Chief was restless before
the Speech was half ended, observed his Camp was exposed & could wait
no longer &c. at the Conclusion of the Speach we mentioned the Ricaras
& requested them to make a peace & Smoke out of the Sacred Stem with
their Chief which I intreduced and gave him the pipe of peace to hand
around, they all Smoked with eagerness out of the pipe held by the
Ricara Chief Ar-ke-tar-na-Shar we mentioned our hands that were to be
discharged here, also the roberrey commited on th 2 french men below, &
requested them to answere us tomorrow, gave the Chief Small preasents
and a fiew presents for each village Shot the air gun which both
Surprised and astonished the nativs, and Soon dispersed
our Ricara Chief Came told me he wished to return to his nation
tomorrow I put him off & Said we would Send a talk by him after the
Chiefs had Spoken to us- we gave a Steel mill to the mandans which was
verry pleasing to them
The Chief who recved Medals to Day are as follows viz-in Council
is Mandan village Ma-too-ton kai s Chief Sha-ha-ka Big White 2nd
Ka-goh-ha-me little Crows
2 do village Roop tar-hee
1 s & grand Chief Poss-cop-sa-he Black Cat
2d Chief Car-gar-no-mok-she raven man Chief
Mah har-ha village
is Chief Ta-tuck-co pin re has, white Buffalow Skin unfolded
Little Menetarre village
is Chief Omp-Se-ha-ra Black mockerson. 2d Chief Oh-hark little Fox.
The Grand village of Manetarres, The One Eye is the principal Chief and
he is out on a hunting party. we Send by the Grape all the articles for
this grand Chief and all the Village what goods was intended for that
Village- The Prarie got on fire and went with Such Violenc & Speed as
to Catch a man & woman & burn them to Death, Several escapd. among
other a Small boy who was Saved by getting under a green Buffalow Skin,
this boy was half white, & the Indians Say all white flesh is medisan,
they Say the grass was not burnt where the boy Sat &c. &. this fire
passed us at 8 oClock, and lookd truly tremendious.
[Clark, October 29, 1804]
29th October Monday 1804
a fair fine morning after Brackfast we were visited by the old Cheaf of
the Big bellies or ____ this man was old and had transfered his power
to his Sun, who was then out at war against the Snake Indians who
inhabit the rockey mountains- at 10 oClock the S W. wind rose verry
high, we Collected the Chiefs and Commened a Council ounder a Orning
and our Sales Stretched around to Keep out as much wind as possible, we
delivered a long Speech the Substance of which Similer to what we had
Delivered to the nations below. the old Chief of the Grossanters was
verry restless before the Speech was half ended observed that he Could
not wait long that his Camp was exposed to the hostile Indians, &c. &.
he was rebuked by one of the Chiefs for his uneasiness at Such a time
as the present, we at the end of the Speech mentioned the Ricare who
Accompanied us to make a firm peace, they all Smoked with him (I gave
this Cheaf a Dollar of the American Coin as a Meadel with which he was
much pleased) In Councel we prosented him with a Certificate of his
Sincrrity and good Conduct &c. we also Spoke about the fur which was
taken from 2 french men by a Mandan, and informd of our intentions of
Sending back the french hands- after the Council we gave the presents
with much Seremoney, and put the Meadels on the Cheifs we intended to
make viz. one for each Town to whome we gave Coats hats & flags, one
Grand Cheif to each nation to whome we gave meadels with the presidents
likeness in Councel we requested them to give us an answer tomorrow or
as Soon as possible to Some points which required their Deliberation-
after the Council was over we Shot the Air gun which appeared to
assonish the nativs much, the greater part them retired Soon after
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