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Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark

M >> Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark

Pages:
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[Clark, September 16, 1804]
September 16th Sunday, we proceeded on 11/4 Miles and Camped on the L.
Side in a butifull Plain Surounded with timber in which we Saw Severall
Der, we delayed here for the purpose of Drying the articles which were
wet & the cloathes to Load the Perogue which we had intended to send
back, finding the water too Shoal Deturmind to take on the Perogue also
to make Some observations for Longitude &c. the two men G. & R. F.
joined us and informed "that the river as far as they were up had much
the Appearance of the river about the mouth, but little timber and that
chiefly elm", the up land between this river & the White river is fine,
Great numbers of Goat, Deer of three kinds, Buffalow, & wolves, &
Barking Squrels, The fallow Deer, Cloudy, all day Cleaning out the boat
examining & Drying the goods, & loading the Perogue, I killed 2 Deer
Capt Lewis one & a Buffalow, one Buffalow & five other Deer Killed. I
observed Pine Burs & Burch Sticks in the Drift wood up white river
which Coms in on the L. S. imedeately in the point is a butifull
Situation for a town 3 Gentle rises, & more timber about the mouth of
this river than usial

[Clark, September 16, 1804]
16th of September Sunday 1804
We Set out verry early & proceed'd on 11/4 miles between Sand bars and
Came too on the L. S. (1)- deturmined to dry our wet thig and liten the
boat which we found could not proceed with the present load for this
purpose we Concluded to detain the Perogue we had intended to Send back
& load her out of the boat & detain the Soldiers untill Spring & Send
them from our winter quarters. We put out those articles which was wet,
Clean'd the boat & perogus, examined all the Locker Bails &. &c. &.

This Camp is Situated in a butifull Plain Serounded with Timber to the
extent of 3/4 of a mile in which there is great quantities of fine
Plumbs The two men detachd up the White river joined us here & informed
that the river as far as they were up had much the appearance of the
Missourie Som Islands & Sands little Timber Elm, (much Signs of Beaver,
Great many buffalow) & Continud its width, they Saw & well as my Self
Pine burs & Sticks of Birch in the Drift wood up this river, They Saw
also Number of Goats Such as I Killed, also wolves near the Buffalow
falling Deer, & the Barking Squrels Villages Capt. Lewis went to hunt &
See the Countrey near the Kamp he killed a Buffalow & a Deer

Cloudy all day I partly load the empty Perogue out of the Boat. I
killed 2 Deer & the party 4 Deer & a Buffalow the we kill for the Skins
to Cover the Perogus, the meet too pore to eat. Capt Lewis went on an
Island above our Camp, this Island is abt. one mile long, with a Great
purpotion ceder timber near the middle of it

I gave out a flannel Shirt to each man, & powder to those who had
expended thers

[Lewis, September 17, 1804]
Monday September 17th 1804.
Having for many days past confined myself to the boat, I determined to
devote this day to amuse myself on shore with my gun and view the
interior of the country lying between the river and the Corvus Creek-
accordingly before sunrise I set out with six of my best hunters, two
of whom I dispatched to the lower side of Corvus creek, two with orders
to hunt the bottoms and woodland on the river, while I retained two
others to acompany me in the intermediate country. one quarter of a
mile in rear of our camp which was situated in a fine open grove of
cotton wood passed a grove of plumb trees loaded with fruit and now
ripe. observed but little difference between this fruit and that of a
similar kind common to the Atlantic States. the trees are smaller and
more thickly set. this forrest of plumb trees garnish a plain about 20
feet more lelivated than that on which we were encamped; this plain
extends back about a mile to the foot of the hills one mile distant and
to which it is gradually ascending this plane extends with the same
bredth from the creek below to the distance of near three miles above
parrallel with the river, and is intirely occupyed by the burrows of
the barking squril hertefore discribed; this anamal appears here in
infinite numbers, and the shortness and virdue of grass gave the plain
the appearance throughout it's whole extent of beatifull bowlinggreen
in fine order. it's aspect is S. E. a great number of wolves of the
small kind, balks and some pole-cats were to be seen. I presume that
those anamals feed on this squirril.- found the country in every
direction for about three miles intersected with deep reveries and
steep irregular hills of 100 to 200 feet high; at the tops of these
hills the country breakes of as usual into a fine leavel plain
extending as far as the eye can reach. from this plane I had an
extensive view of the river below, and the irregular hills which border
the opposite sides of the river and creek. the surrounding country had
been birnt about a month before and young grass had now sprung up to
hight of 4 Inches presenting the live green of the spring. to the West
a high range of hills, strech across the country from N. to S and
appeared distant about 20 miles; they are not very extensive as I could
plainly observe their rise and termination no rock appeared on them and
the sides were covered with virdue similar to that of the plains this
senery already rich pleasing and beatiful, was still farther hightened
by immence herds of Buffaloe deer Elk and Antelopes which we saw in
every direction feeding on the hills and plains. I do not think I
exagerate when I estimate the number of Buffaloe which could be
compreed at one view to amount to 3000. my object was if possible to
kill a female Antelope having already procured a male; I pursued my
rout on this plain to the west flanked by my two hunters untill eight
in the morning when I made the signal for them to come to me which they
did shortly after. we rested our selves about half an hour, and
regailed ourselves on half a bisquit each and some jirk of Elk which we
had taken the precaution to put in our pouches in the morning before we
set out, and drank of the water of a small pool which had collected on
this plain from the rains which had fallen some days before. We had now
after various windings in pursuit of several herds of antelopes which
we had seen on our way made the distance of about eight miles from our
camp. we found the Antelope extreemly shye and watchfull insomuch that
we had been unable to get a shot at them; when at rest they generally
seelect the most elivated point in the neighbourhood, and as they are
watchfull and extreemly quick of sight and their sense of smelling very
accute it is almost impossible to approach them within gunshot; in
short they will frequently discover and flee from you at the distance
of three miles. I had this day an opportunity of witnessing the agility
and superior fleetness of this anamal which was to me really
astonishing. I had pursued and twice surprised a small herd of seven,
in the first instance they did not discover me distinctly and therefore
did not run at full speed, tho they took care before they rested to
gain an elivated point where it was impossible to approach them under
cover except in one direction and that happened to be in the direction
from which the wind blew towards them; bad as the chance to approach
them was, I made the best of my way towards them, frequently peeping
over the ridge with which I took care to conceal myself from their view
the male, of which there was but one, frequently incircled the summit
of the hill on which the females stood in a group, as if to look out
for the approach of danger. I got within about 200 paces of them when
they smelt me and fled; I gained the top of the eminece on which they
stood, as soon as possible from whence I had an extensive view of the
country the antilopes which had disappeared in a steep revesne now
appeared at the distance of about three miles on the side of a ridge
which passed obliquely across me and extended about four miles. so soon
had these antelopes gained the distance at which they had again
appeared to my view I doubted at ferst that they were the same that I
had just surprised, but my doubts soon vanished when I beheld the
rapidity of their flight along the ridge before me it appeared reather
the rappid flight of birds than the motion of quadrupeds. I think I can
safely venture the asscertion that the speed of this anamal is equal if
not superior to that of the finest blooded courser.- this morning I saws

[Clark, September 17, 1804]
17th of Septr. Monday 1804 above White river Dried all those articles
which had got wet by the last rain, a fine day Capt Lewis went hunting
with a vew to seethe Countrey &its productions, he was out all Day
Killed a Buffalow & a remarkable bird of the Spicies of Corvus, long
tail of a Greenish Purple, Varigated a Beck like a Crow white round its
neck comeing to a point on its back, its belley white feet like a Hawk
abt. the size of a large Pigeon Capt Lewis returned at Dark. I took the
Meridian & equal altitudes to day made the Lattitude.

Colter Killed a Goat, & a Curious kind of Deer, a Darker grey than
Common the hair longer & finer, the ears verry large & long a Small
resepitical under its eye its tail round and white to near the end
which is black & like a Cow in every other respect like a Deer, except
it runs like a goat. large.

The hunters brought in 8 fallow Deer & 5 Common Deer to day, Great
numbers of Buffalow in the Praries, also a light Coloured woolf Covered
with hair & corse fur, also a Small wolf with a large bushey tail- Some
Goats of a Different Kind Seen to day,- Great many Plumbs, rabits,
Porcupines & barking Squrels, Capt Lewis Killed a rattle Snake in a
village of the Squirel's and Saw a Hair to day. Wind from the S. W. we
finished Drying our Provisions Some of which was wet and Spoiled,

[Clark, September 17, 1804]
17th of September Monday 1804
Dried all our wet articles this fine Day, Capt Lewis went out with a
View to see the Countrey and its productions, he was out all day he
killed a Buffalow and a remarkable Bird of the Corvus Species long tail
the upper part of the feathers & also the wing is of a purplish
variated Green, the black, a part of the wing feather are white edjed
with black, white belley, white from the root of the wings to Center of
the back is white, the head nake breast & other parts are black the
Becke like a Crow. abt. the Size of a large Pigion. a butifull thing
(See Suplement in No. 3)

I took equal altitudes and a meridian altitude. Capt. Lewis returned at
Dark, Colter Killed a Goat like the one I killed and a curious kind of
deer of a Dark gray Colr. more so than common, hair long & fine, the
ears large & long, a Small reseptical under the eyes; like an Elk, the
Taile about the length of Common Deer, round (like a Cow) a tuft of
black hair about the end, this Speces of Deer jumps like a goat or Sheep

8 fallow Deer 5 Common & 3 buffalow killed to day, Capt. Lewis Saw a
hare & Killed a Rattle Snake in a village of B. squerels The wind from
S. W. Dryed our provisions, Some of which was much Damaged.

[Lewis, September 17, 1804]
Sept. 17th
one of the hunters killed a bird of the Corvus genus and order of the
pica & about the size of a jack-daw with a remarkable long tale.
beautifully variagated. it note is not disagreeable though loudit is
twait twait twait, twait; twait, twait twait, twait.

F I
from tip to tip of wing 1 10
Do. beak to extremity of tale 1 81/2
of which the tale occupys 1 1
from extremity of middle toe to hip 51/2

it's head, beak, and neck are large for a bird of it's size; the beak
is black, and of a convex and cultrated figure, the chops nearly equal,
and it's base large and beset with hairs- the eyes are black encircled
with a narrow ring of yellowish black it's head, neck, brest & back
within one inch of the tale are of a fine glossey black, as are also
the short fathers of the under part of the wing, the thies and those
about the root of the tale. the belly is of a beatifull white which
passes above and arround the but of the wing, where the feathers being
long reach to a small white spot on the rump one inch in width- the
wings have nineteen feathers, of which the ten first have the longer
side of their plumage white in the midde of the feather and occupying
unequal lengths of the same from one to three inches, and forming when
the wing is spead a kind of triangle the upper and lower part of these
party coloured feathers on the under side of the wing being of dark
colour but not jut or shining black. the under side of the remaining
feathers of the wing are darker. the upper side of the wing, as well as
the short side of the plumage of the party coloured feathers is of a
dark blackis or bluish green sonetimes presenting as light orange
yellow or bluish tint as it happens to be presented to different
exposures of ligt- the plumage of the tale consits of 12 feathers of
equal lengths by pairs, those in the center are the longest, and the
others on each side deminishing about an inch each pair- the underside
of the feathers is a pale black, the upper side is a dark bluefish
green which like the outer part of the wings is changable as it
reflects different portions of light. towards the the extremely of
these feathers they become of an orrange green, then shaded pass to a
redish indigo blue, and again at the extremity assume the predominant
colour of changeable green- the tints of these feathers are very
similar and equally as beatiful and rich as the tints of blue and green
of the peacock- it is a most beatifull bird.- the legs and toes are
black and imbricated. it has four long toes, three in front and one in
rear, each terminated with a black sharp tallon from 3/8ths to 1/2 an
inch in length.- these birds are seldom found in parties of more than
three or four and most usually at this season single as the balks and
other birds of prey usually are- it's usual food is flesh- this bird
dose not spread it's tail when it flys and the motion of it's wings
when flying is much like that of a Jay-bird-

The White turkey of the black hills from information of a french lad
who wintered with the Chien Indians About the size of the common wild
turkey the plumage perfectly white- this bird is booted as low as the
toes-

[Clark, September 18, 1804]
Septr. 18
I Killed a prarie wolf to day about the Sise of a Gray fox with a
bushey tail the head and ears like a Fox wolf, and barks like a Small
Dog- The annimale which we have taken for the Fox is this wolf, we have
seen no Foxes.

18 Septr. Tuesday Set out early wind from the N W. Modrt. our boat
being much litened goes much better than usial

[Clark, September 18, 1804]
September 18th Tuesday 1804
Wind from the N W. we Set out early the boat much lightened, the wind a
head proceed on verry Slowly (1) Passed an I a Island about the middle
of the river at 1 Mile this Island is about a mile long, and has a
great perpotion of red Cedir on it, a Small Creek comes in on the S. S.
opposit the head of the Island, proceeded on passed many Sand bars and
Camped on the L. S. before night the wind being verry hard & a head all
Day. the hunters Killed 10 Deer to day and a Prarie wolf, had it all
jurked & Skins Stretchd after Camping I walked on Shore Saw Goats, Elk,
Buffalow, Black tail Deer, & the Common Deer, I Killed a Prarie Wollf,
about the Size of a gray fox bushey tail head & ear like a wolf, Some
fur Burrows in the ground and barks like a Small Dog.

what has been taken heretofore for the Fox was those wolves, and no
Foxes has been Seen; The large wolves are verry numourous, they are of
a light Colr. large & has long hair with Corrs fur.

Some Goats of a Different Kind Wer Seen yesterday Great many Porcupin
rabits & Barking Squirils in this quarter. Plumbs & grapes.

[Lewis, September 18, 1804]
Sept. 18th this day saw the first brant on their return from the north-

[Clark, September 19, 1804]
(1) & (2) passed a large Island Situated nearest the S. S. 1/2 a mile
from the Lower pt. of this Island, the 1st of the 3 rivers mouths which
is about 35 yards wide, running from the N E. one mile above the 2nd
Comes in this is Small not more that 15 yards wide a Short Distance
above a 3d comes in scattering its waters thro a bottom. I walked on
Shore to See this great Pass of the Sioux and Calumet ground, found it
a handsom Situation, and Saw the remains of their Campt on the 2d
river, for many years passed- (3) passed a Creek on the L. S. 15 yds
wide we (4) passed a Creek 20 yds wide (5) passed a Creek 20 yd. wide
on the L. S. I call Night C. as I did not get to it untill late at
night, above the mouth of this Creek we camped, the wind being
favourable, for the boat I Killed a fat Buffalow Cow, and a fat Buck
elk, york my Servent Killed a Buck, the Huntes Killed 4 Deer, & the
boat Crew killed 2 Buffalow Swiming the river, handsom Countrey of
Plains, I saw many trovs of Buffalow & a Gangue of 30 or 40 Elk and
othr Scattering elk &c. a find evening I hurt my hands & feet last night

[Clark, September 19, 1804]
19th of September Wednesday 1804
Set out early, a Cool morning verry Clear the wind from the S. E a
Bluff on the L. S.- here Commences a Butifull Countrey on both Sides of
the Missourie, (2) passed a large Island Called Prospect Island op
posit this Isd. the 3 rivers Coms in, passing thro a butifull Plain,
here I walked on Shore & Killed a fat Cow & Sent her to the boat and
proceeded on to the first of the 3 rivers, this river is about 35 yards
wide Contains a good deel of water, I walked up this river 2 miles &
Cross, the bottom is high and rich Some timber, I crossed & returned to
the mouth, & proceeded up one mile to the 2d river which is Small 12
yards wide, and on it but little timber, on this Creek the Seaux has
frequently Camped, as appears by the Signs- the lands betwen those two
Creeks in a purpindicular bluff of about 80 feet with a butifull Plain
& gentle assent back- a Short distance above the 2nd a 3rd Creek Comes
into the river in 3 places Scattering its waters over the large
timbered bottom, this Creek is near the Size of the middle Creek
Containing a greater quantity of water, those rivers is the place that
all nations who meet are at peace with each other, Called the Seaux
pass of the 3 rivers.

The boat proceeded on passd. the Island (3) passed a Creek 15 yds wide
on the L. Side (4) passed a Creek on the L. S. 20 yards wide which I
Call Elm Creek passing thro a high Plain (5) passed a Creek on the L.
S. 18 yds. wide above which the boat Came too, I joined them late at
night, and Call this Creek Night Creek the winds favourable all Day, I
killed a fat buck Elk late and could only get his Skin and a Small part
of his flesh to Camp. My Servent Killed a Buck, the Crew in the boat
Killed 2 buffalow in the river- The Hunters on Shore Killed 4 Deer with
black tails one of which was a Buck with two men Prongs on each Side
forked equally, which I never before Seen. I saw Several large gangs of
Buffaloes 2 large Herds of Elk & goats &c. (6) pass a Small Island on
the S. S. opposit to this Island on the L. S. a Creek of about 10 yards
wide Coms in passing thro a plain in which great quantities of the
Prickley Pear grows. I call this Creek Prickley Pear Creek, This Isld.
is Called the lower Island it is Situated at the Commencement of what
is Called & Known by the Grand de Tortu or Big Bend of the Missourie.

[Clark, September 20, 1804]
September the 20th Thursday 1804 Detchd. 3 men across the Big bend
(Called the Grand deTour) with the horse, to stay and hunt & jurk
provisions untill we get around (1) passed a Island on the S. S. the
river Crouded with Sand bars,

20th of September 1804 Thursday (Continued)
(1) at the N W. extremity of this bend passed an Small Island on the L.
S. opposit the upper Point of this Solitary Island Came too to _____ at
the mouth of a Small run on the S. S. & Newmon & Tomson picked up Some
Salt mixed with the Sand in the run, Such as the ottoes Indians Collect
on the Sands of the Corn de Cerf R. & make use of, Camped on a Sand bar
on the S. S. above the Island- I went out to examine the portage which
I found quit Short 2000 yards only, the Prarie below & Sides of the
hills containing great quantites of the Prickly Piar which nearly ruind
my feet, I saw a hare, & I beleve he run into a hole, he run on a hill
& disapeared, I Saw on this hill several holes. I Saw Several Goats Elk
Ders &c. & Buffalow in every Detection feeding. R. Fields Killed a Deer
& 2 Goats one a female, which differs from the male as to Size being
Something Smaller, Small Straight horns without any black about the
neck Camped late

[Clark, September 20, 1804]
20th of September, Thursday 1804
a fair morning wind from the S E detached 2 men to the 1st. Creek abov
the big bend with the horse to hunt and wait our arrival proceeded on
passed the lower Island opposit which the Sand bars are verry thick &
the water Shoal. I walked on Shore with a view of examining this bend
Crossed at the narost part which is a high irregular hills of about 180
or 190 feet, this place the gorge of the Bend is 1 mile & a quarter
(from river to river or) across, from this high land which is only in
the Gouge, the bend is a Butifull Plain thro which I walked, Saw numbrs
of Buffalow & Goats, I saw a Hare & believe he run into a hole in the
Side of a hill, he run up this hill which is Small & has Several holes
on the Side & I could not See him after, I joined the boat in the
evening- passed a Small Island on the L. S. in the N. W. extremity of
the bind Called Solitary Island, and Camped late on a Sand bar near the
S. S.- R. Fields killed 1 Deer & 2 Goats one of them a feemale- She
Differs from the mail as to Size being Smaller, with Small Horns,
Stright with a Small prong without any black about the neck None of
those Goats has any Beard, they are all Keenly made, and is butifull

[Lewis, September 20, 1804]
Septr. 20th
on the lard. shore at the commencement of the big bend observed a clift
of black porus rock which resembled Lava tho on a closer examination I
believe it to be calcarious and an imperfect species of the French
burr- preserved a specemine, it is a brownish white, or black or
yellowish brown-

[Clark, September 21, 1804]
21st of September 1804 Friday 1804, last night or reather this morng at
a half past one oClock the Sand bar on which we Camped began to give
way, which allarmed the Serjt on guard & the noise waked me, I got up
and by the light of the moon observed that the Sand was giving away
both above & beloy and would Swallow our Perogues in a few minits,
ordered all hands on board and pushed off we had not got to the opposit
Shore before pt. of our Camp fel into the river. we proceeded on to the
Gorge of the bend & brackfast, the Distance of this bend around is 30
miles, and 11/4 miles thro, the high lands extinds to the gauge and is
about 200 feet the plain in the bend as also the two opposit Sides abov
and below is delightfull plains with graduel assents from the river in
which there is at this time Great number of Buffalow Elk & Goats feedg
The Course from the gauge on the L. S. is S. 70 W. 41/2 Miles to the
pt. of Ceder Timber on the L. S. pass Sands. worthy of remark the Cat
fish not So plenty abov white river & much Smaller than usial, Great
nunbers of Brant & plover, also goat and black tail Deer.

[Clark, September 21, 1804]
21st of September Friday 1804
at half past one oClock this morning the Sand bar on which we Camped
began to under mind and give way which allarmed the Sergeant on Guard,
the motion of the boat awakened me; I get up & by the light of the moon
observed that the land had given away both above and below our Camp &
was falling in fast. I ordered all hands on as quick as possible &
pushed off, we had pushed off but a few minets before the bank under
which the Boat & perogus lay give way, which would Certainly have Sunk
both Perogues, by the time we made the opsd. Shore our Camp fell in, we
made a 2d Camp for the remainder of the night & at Daylight proceeded
on to the Gouge of this Great bend and Brackfast, we Sent a man to
measure step off the Distance across the gouge, he made it 2000 yds.
The distance arround is 30 mes. The hills extend thro the gouge and is
about 200 foot above the water- in the bend as also the opposite Sides
both abov and below the bend is a butifull inclined Plain in which
there is great numbers of Buffalow, Elk & Goats in view feeding &
Scipping on those Plains Grouse, Larks & the Prarie bird is Common in
those Plains. we proceeded on passed a (1) willow Island below the
mouth of a Small river called Tylors R about 35 yds. wide which corns
in on the L. S. 6 miles above the Gorge of the bend, at the mouth of
this river the two hunters a head left a Deer & its Skin also the Skin
of a white wolfwe observe an emence number of Plover of Different kind
Collecting and takeing their flight Southerly, also Brants which appear
to move in the same Direction. The Cat fish is Small and not So plenty
as below (2) The Shore on each Side is lined with hard rough Gulley
Stones of different Sides, which has roled from the hills & out of
Small brooks, Ceder is comon here, This day is worm, the wind which is
not hard blows from the S. E, we Camped at the lower point of the Mock
Island on the S. S. this now Connected with the main land, it has the
appearance of once being an Island detached from the main land Covered
with tall Cotton wood- we Saw Some Camps and tracks of the Seaux which
appears to be old three or four weeks ago- one frenchman I fear has got
an abscess on his they, he complains verry much we are makeing every
exertion to releiv him The Praries in this quarter Contains Great qts.
of Prickley Pear.

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