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Books: The Journals of Lewis and Clark

M >> Meriwether Lewis et al >> The Journals of Lewis and Clark

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This eBook was produced by Bob Webster.



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The Journals of Lewis and Clark
By Meriwether Lewis and and William Clark, 1804-1806

Note: These Journals are from May 14, 1804, the day the expedition left
the Mississippi River, to September 26, 1806, a day or two after they
arrived back in St. Louis. It includes all possible Journal entries of
Lewis and Clark. Most of the "courses and distances" and "celestial
observations" have been omitted. The notes and most of the corrections
of past editors have been removed. There are a few OCR errors, but most
of the misspellings are almost 200 years old. The dates with the names
in the brackets are a little redundent. They are included to provide
the correct date in a consistent format.

[Clark, May 14, 1804]
May the 14th-Monday
Set out from Camp River a Dubois at 4 oClock P.M. and proceded up the
Missouris under Sail to the first Island in the Missouri and Camped on
the upper point opposit a Creek on the South Side below a ledge of
limestone rock Called Colewater, made 41/2 miles, the Party Consisted
of 2, Self one frenchman and 22 Men in the Boat of 20 ores, 1 Serjt. &
7 french in a large Perogue, a Corp and 6 Soldiers in a large Perogue.
a Cloudy rainey day. wind from the N E. men in high Spirits

[Clark, May 14, 1804]
Monday May 14th 1804
Rained the forepart of the day I determined to go as far as St. Charles
a french Village 7 Leags. up the Missourie, and wait at that place
untill Capt. Lewis Could finish the business in which he was obliged to
attend to at St Louis and join me by Land from that place 24 miles; by
this movement I calculated that if any alterations in the loading of
the Vestles or other Changes necessary, that they might be made at St.
Charles I Set out at 4 oClock P.M. in the presence of many of the
Neighbouring inhabitents, and proceeded on under a jentle brease up the
Missourie to the upper Point of the 1st Island 4 Miles and Camped on
the Island which is Situated Close on the right (or Starboard) Side,
and opposit the mouth of a Small Creek called Cold water, a heavy rain
this after-noon The Course of this day nearly West wind from N. E

[Lewis, May 15, 1804]
Tuesday May 15th
It rained during the greater part of last night and continued untill 7
OCk. A.M. after which the Prarty proceeded, passed two Islands and
incamped on the Stard. shore at Mr. Fifer's landing opposite an Island,
the evening was fair. some wild gees with their young brudes were seen
today. the barge run foul three several times -on logs, and in one
instance it was with much difficulty they could get her off; happily no
injury was sustained, tho the barge was several minutes in eminent
danger; this was cased by her being too heavily laden in the stern.
Persons accustomed to the navigation of the Missouri and the
Mississippi also below the mouth of this river, uniformly take the
precaution to load their vessels heavyest in the bow when they ascend
the stream in order to avoid the danger incedent to runing foul of the
concealed timber which lyes in great quantities in the beds of these
rivers

[Clark, May 15, 1804]
Tuesday 15- rained all last night and this morning untill 7 oClock, all
our fire extinguished, Some Provisions on the top of the Perogus wet, I
sent two men to the Countrey to hunt, & proceed on at 9 oClock, and
proceeded on 9 miles and Camped at a Mr Pip. Landing just below a Coal
Bank on the South Side the prarie Comes with 1/4 of a mile of the river
on the N. Side I sent to the Setlements in the Pairie & purchased fowls
&. one of the Perogue are not Sufficently maned to Keep up.

Refurences from the 15th of May (2) a large Island to the Starboard;
(3) passed a Small Island in the bend to the Starbord, opposit Passage
De Soux and with 11/2 miles of the mississippi, observed a number of
Gosselins on the edge of the river many passing down, Strong water &
wind from the N E- Passed a Place Lbord Called the Plattes, a flat rock
projecting from the foot of a hill, where there is a farm, (5) pass an
Small Isld near the Center of the river, run on Several logs this after
noon, Camped at Mr. Pipers Landing.

[Clark, May 15, 1804]
May 15th Tuesday
Rained the greater part of the last night, and this morning untile 7
oClock- at 9 oClock Set out and proceeded on 9 miles passed two Islands
& incamped on the Starbd. Side at a Mr. Pipers Landing opposit an
Island, the Boat run on Logs three times to day, owing her being too
heavyly loaded a Sturn, a fair after noon, I Saw a number of Goslings
to day on the Shore, the water excessively rapid, & Banks falling in-.

[Clark, May 16, 1804]
Wednesday May 16th
A fair morning, Set out at 5 oClock passed the Coal hill (Call by the
natives Carbonear) this hill appears to Contain great quantytes of
Coal, and also ore of a rich appearance haveing greatly the resemblance
of Silver Arrived Opposit St Charles at 12 oClock, this Village is at
the foot of a Hill from which it takes its real name Peeteite Coete or
the little hill, it contains about 100 indefferent houses, and abot 450
Inhabetents principally frinch, those people appear pore and extreemly
kind, the Countrey around I am told is butifull. interspursed with
Praries & timber alturnetly and has a number of American Settlers

Took equal altituds with Sextion M a 68°37'30" Dined with the Comdr. &
Mr. Ducetts family- (1) Passed an Island on the L Side just above the
bank one just above, two Small ones oposut under the St. Shore, one on
Lb. Side below St Charles, arrived at this place at 12 oClock a fine Day

[Clark, May 16, 1804]
May 16th Wednesday
a fair morning Set out at 5 oClk pass a remarkable Coal Hill on the
Larboard Side Called by the French Carbonere, this hill appear to
Contain great quantity of Coal & ore of a ____ appearance from this
hill the village of St Charles may be Seen at 7 miles distance- we
arrived at St. Charles at 12 oClock a number Spectators french &
Indians flocked to the bank to See the party. This Village is about one
mile in length, Situated on the North Side of the Missourie at the foot
of a hill from which it takes its name Petiete Coete or the Little hill
This village Contns. about 100 houses, the most of them Small and
indefferent and about 450 inhabitents Chiefly French, those people
appear pore, polite & harmonious- I was invited to Dine with a Mr.
Ducett this gentleman was once a merchant from Canadia, from
misfortunes aded to the loss of a Cargo Sold to the late judge Turner
he has become Somewhat reduced, he has a Charming wife an eligent
Situation on the hill Serounded by orchards & a excellent gardain.

[Clark, May 17, 1804]
Thursday the 17th 1804 a fine Day 3 men Confined for misconduct, I had
a Court martial & punishment Several Indians, who informed me that the
Saukees had lately Crossed to war against the Osage Nation Som
aplicasions, I took equal altitudes made the m a. to be 84° 39' 15"
measured the Missouries at this place and made it 720 yards wide, in
Banks. a Boat came up this evening, I punished Hall agreeable to his
Sentence in part, a fine after noon; Suped with Mr. Ducett an agreeable
man more agreeable Lady, this Gentleman has a Delightfull Situation &
garden.

[Clark, May 17, 1804]
May the 17th Thursday 1804
a fair day Compelled to punish for misconduct. Several Kickapoos
Indians Visit me to day, George Drewyer arrive. Took equal altitudes of
Suns L L made it 84° 39' 15" ap T. Measured the river found it to be 720
yards wide, a Keel Boat Came up to day- Several of the inhabitents Came
abord to day receved Several Speces of Vegatables from the inhabitents
to day

[Ordway, May 17, 1804]
Orders St. Charles Thursdy the 17th of May 1804-
a Sergeant and four men of the Party destined for the Missourri
Expidition will convene at 11 oClock to day on the quarter Deck of the
Boat, and form themselves into a Court martial to hear and determine
(in behalf of the Capt.) the evidences aduced against William Warner &
Hugh Hall for being absent last night without leave; contrary to
orders;-& John Collins 1st for being absent without leave- 2nd for
behaveing in an unbecomeing manner at the Ball last night- 3rdly for
Speaking in a language last night after his return tending to bring
into disrespect the orders of the Commanding officer

Signd. W. Clark Comdg.
Detail for Court martial

Segt. John Ordway Prs.

members
R. Fields
R. Windsor
J. Whitehouse
Jo. Potts

The Court convened agreeable to orders on the 17th of May 1804 Sgt.
John Ordway P. members Joseph Whitehouse Rueben Fields Potts Richard
Windsor after being duly Sworn the Court proceded to the trial of
William Warner & Hugh Hall on the following Charges Viz: for being
absent without leave last night contrary to orders, to this Charge the
Prisoners plead Guilty. The Court one of oppinion that the Prisoners
Warner & Hall are Both Guilty of being absent from camp without leave
it being a breach of the Rules and articles of war and do Sentence them
Each to receive twentyfive lashes on their naked back, but the Court
recommend them from their former Good conduct, to the mercy of the
commanding officer.- at the Same court was tried John Collins Charged
1st for being absent without leave- 2d. for behaveing in an unbecomming
manner at the ball last night idly for Speaking in a languguage after
his return to camp tending to bring into disrespect the orders of the
Commanding officer- The Prisoner Pleads Guilty to the first Charge but
not Guilty to the two last chrges.- after mature deliberation &
agreeable to the evidence aduced. The Court are of oppinion that the
Prisnair is Guilty of all the charges alledged against him it being a
breach of the rules & articles of War and do Sentence him to receive
fifty lashes on his naked back- The Commanding officer approves of the
proceedings & Desicon of the Court martial and orders that the
punishment of John Collins take place this evening at Sun Set in the
Presence of the Party.- The punishment ordered to be inflicted on
William Warner & Hugh Hall, is remitted under the assurence arriveing
from a confidence which the Commanding officer has of the Sincerity of
the recommendation from the Court.- after the punishment, Warner Hall &
Collins will return to their squads and Duty

The Court is Disolved.

Sign. Wm. Clark

[Clark, May 18, 1804]
Friday May the 18th 1804 a fine morning took equal altitude and made it
97° 42' 37" M. A

I had the Boat & Pierogue reloded So as to Cause them to be heavyer in
bow than asturn recved of Mr. Lyon 136 lb. Tobacco on act. of Mr.
Choteau Gave out tin Cups & 3 Knives to the French hands, Mr. Lauriesme
returned from the Kickapoo Town to day delayed a Short time & Set out
for St. Louis, I Sent George Drewyer with Mr. Lauriesmus to St Louis &
wrote to Cap Lewis Mr. Ducett made me a present of rivr Catts & Some
Herbs our french hands bring me eggs milk &c. &. to day The wind hard
from the S. W. Two Keel Boats came up to this place to day from Kentucky

[Clark, May 18, 1804]
May the 18th Friday 1804
a fine morning, I had the loading in the Boat & perogue examined and
changed So as the Bow of each may be heavyer laded than the Stern, Mr.
Lauremus who had been Sent by Cap Lewis to the Kickapoo Town on public
business return'd and after a Short delay proceeded on to St Louis, I
Sent George Drewyer with a Letter to Capt Lewis Two Keel Boats arrive
from Kentucky to day loaded with whiskey Hats &c. &. the wind from the
SW. Took equal altitudes with Sexetn Made it 97°42' 37" MT.

[Clark, May 19, 1804]
Satturday May the 19th 1804 a Violent Wind last night from the W. S W,
Suckceeded by rain with lasted Som hours, a Cloudy Morning, many
persons Came to the boat to day I took equal altitudes. mar time 76° 33'
7"

I heard of my Brothers illness to day which has given me much Concurn,
I settle with the men and take receipts for Pay up to the 1st of Decr.
next, I am invited to a ball in the Village, let Several of the men
go,- R Fields Kill a Deer George Drewyear returned with a hundred
Dollars, he lost

[Clark, May 19, 1804]
May 19th Satturday 1804
A Violent Wind last night from the W. S. W. accompanied with rain which
lasted about three hours Cleared away this morn'g at 8 oClock, I took
receipt for the pay of the men up to the 1st. of Decr. next, R. Fields
Kill a Deer to day, I recve an invitation to a Ball, it is not in my
power to go. George Drewyer return from St Louis and brought 99
Dollars, he lost a letter from Cap Lewis to me, Seven Ladies visit me
to day

[Lewis, May 20, 1804]
Sunday May 20th 1804
The morning was fair, and the weather pleasent; at 10 oCk A M. agreably
to an appointment of the preceeding day, I was joined by Capt.
Stoddard, Lieuts. Milford & Worrell together with Messrs. A. Chouteau,
C. Gratiot, and many other respectable inhabitants of St. Louis, who
had engaged to accompany me to the Vilage of St. Charles; accordingly
at 12 Oclk after bidding an affectionate adieu to my Hostis, that
excellent woman the spouse of Mr. Peter Chouteau, and some of my fair
friends of St. Louis, we set forward to that village in order to join
my friend companion and fellow labourer Capt. William Clark who had
previously arrived at that place with the party destined for the
discovery of the interior of the continent of North America the first 5
miles of our rout laid through a beatifull high leavel and fertile
prarie which incircles the town of St. Louis from N. W. to S. E. the
lands through which we then passed are somewhat broken up fertile the
plains and woodlands are here indiscriminately interspersed untill you
arrive within three miles of the vilage when the woodland commences and
continues to the Missouri the latter is extreamly fertile. At half
after one P.M. our progress was interrupted the near approach of a
violent thunder storm from the N. W. and concluded to take shelter in a
little cabbin hard by untill the rain should be over; accordingly we
alighted and remained about an hour and a half and regailed ourselves
with a could collation which we had taken the precaution to bring with
us from St. Louis.

The clouds continued to follow each other in rapaid succession,
insomuch that there was but little prospect of it's ceasing to rain
this evening; as I had determined to reach St. Charles this evening and
knowing that there was now no time to be lost I set forward in the
rain, most of the gentlemen continued with me, we arrived at half after
six and joined Capt Clark, found the party in good health and sperits.
suped this evening with Monsr. Charles Tayong a Spanish Ensign & late
Commandant of St. Charles at an early hour I retired to rest on board
the barge- St. Charles is situated on the North bank of the Missouri 21
Miles above it's junction with the Mississippi, and about the same
distance N. W. from St. Louis; it is bisected by one principal street
about a mile in length runing nearly parrallel with the river, the
plain on which it stands-is narrow tho sufficiently elivated to secure
it against the annual inundations of the river, which usually happen in
the month of June, and in the rear it is terminated by a range of small
hills, hence the appellation of petit Cote, a name by which this vilage
is better known to the French inhabitants of the Illinois than that of
St. Charles. The Vilage contains a Chappel, one hundred dwelling
houses, and about 450 inhabitants; their houses are generally small and
but illy constructed; a great majority of the inhabitants are miserably
pour, illiterate and when at home excessively lazy, tho they are polite
hospitable and by no means deficient in point of natural genious, they
live in a perfect state of harmony among each other; and plase as
implicit confidence in the doctrines of their speritual pastor, the
Roman Catholic priest, as they yeald passive obedience to the will of
their temporal master the commandant. a small garden of vegetables is
the usual extent of their cultivation, and this is commonly imposed on
the old men and boys; the men in the vigor of life consider the
cultivation of the earth a degrading occupation, and in order to gain
the necessary subsistence for themselves and families, either undertake
hunting voyages on their own account, or engage themselves as hirelings
to such persons as possess sufficient capital to extend their traffic
to the natives of the interior parts of the country; on those voyages
in either case, they are frequently absent from their families or homes
the term of six twelve or eighteen months and alwas subjected to severe
and incessant labour, exposed to the ferosity of the lawless savages,
the vicissitudes of weather and climate, and dependant on chance or
accident alone for food, raiment or relief in the event of malady.
These people are principally the decendants of the Canadian French, and
it is not an inconsiderable proportian of them that can boast a small
dash of the pure blood of the aboriginees of America. On consulting
with my friend Capt. C. I found it necessary that we should pospone our
departure untill 2 P M. the next day and accordingly gave orders to the
party to hold themselves in readiness to depart at that hour.

Captn. Clark now informed me that having gotten all the stores on board
the Barge and perogues on the evening of the 13th of May he determined
to leave our winter cantainment at the mouth of River Dubois the next
day, and to ascend the Missouri as far as the Vilage of St. Charles,
where as it had been previously concerted between us, he was to wait my
arrival; this movement while it advanced us a small distance on our
rout, would also enable him to determine whether the vessels had been
judiciously loaded and if not timely to make the necessary alterations;
accordingly at 4 P.M. on Monday the 14th of May 1804, he embarked with
the party in the presence of a number of the neighbouring Citizens who
had assembled to witness his departure. during the fore part of this
day it rained excessively hard. In my last letter to the President
dated at St. Louis I mentioned the departure of Capt. Clark from River
Dubois on the 15th Inst, which was the day that had been calculated on,
but having completed the arrangements a day earlyer he departed on the
14th as before mentioned. On the evening of the 14th the party halted
and encamped on the upper point of the first Island which lyes near the
Larbord shore, on the same side and nearly opposite the center of this
Island a small Creek disimbogues called Couldwater.

The course and distance of this day was West 4 Miles the Wind from N. E.

[Clark, May 20, 1804]
Sunday 20th May
a Cloudy morning rained and a hard wind last night I continue to write
Rolls, Send 20 men to Church to day one man Sick Capt Lewis and Several
Gentlemen arrive from St Louis thro a violent Shoure of rain, the most
of the party go to the Church.

[Clark, May 20, 1804]
Sunday 20th May
A Cloudy morning rained and hard wind from the ____ last night, The
letter George lost yesterday found by a Country man, I gave the party
leave to go and hear a Sermon to day delivered by Mr. ____ a romon
Carthlick Priest at 3 oClock Capt. Lewis Capt. Stoddard accompanied by
the Officers & Several Gentlemen of St Louis arrived in a heavy Showr
of Rain Mssr. Lutenants Minford & Werness. Mr. Choteau Grattiot,
Deloney, Laber Dee Ranken Dr. SoDrang rained the greater part of this
evening. Suped with Mr. Charles Tayon, the late Comdt. of St Charles a
Spanish Ensign.

[Clark, May 21, 1804]
Monday 21st May
Dine with Mr. Ducete & Set out from St. Charles at three oClock after
getting every matter arranged, proceeded on under a jentle Breese, at
one mile a Violent rain with Wind from the S. W. we landed at the upper
point of the first Island on the Stbd Side & Camped, Soon after it
commenced raining & continued the greater part of the night; 3 french
men got leave to return to Town, and return early (refur to Fig. 2.)

25st refured to fig. 2 Left St. Charles May 21st 1804. Steered N. 15° W
13/4 Ms N 52°W to the upper point of the Island and Camped dureing a rain
which had been falling half an hour, opposit this Isd. Corns in a Small
creek on the St. Sd. and at the head one on the Ld. Side rains
powerfully.

[Clark, May 21, 1804]
May 21st 1804 Monday
All the forepart of the Day Arranging our party and prcureing the
different articles necessary for them at this place- Dined with Mr.
Ducett and Set out at half passed three oClock under three Cheers from
the gentlemen on the bank and proceeded on to the head of the Island
(which is Situated on the Stbd Side) 3 miles Soon after we Set out to
day a hard Wind from the W. S W accompanied with a hard rain, which
lasted with Short intervales all night, opposit our Camp a Small creek
corns in on the Lbd Side-

[Clark, May 22, 1804]
Tuesday May 22nd
delayed a Short time for the three french men who returned and we Set
out at 6 oClock a Cloudy morning rained Violently hard last night Saw
Several people on the bank to day & passed Several Small farms. Capt.
Lewis walk on Shore a little & passed a Camp of Kickapoo Indians, &
incamped in the mouth of a Small Creek in a large Bend on the Stbd Side.

[Clark, May 22, 1804]
May 22nd Tuesday 1804
a Cloudy morning Delay one hour for 4 french men who got liberty to
return to arrange Some business they had forgotten in Town, at 6 oClock
we proceeded on, passed Several Small farms on the bank, and a large
creek on the Lbd. Side Called Bonom a Camp of Kickapoos on the St. Side
Those Indians told me Several days ago that they would Come on & hunt
and by the time I got to their Camp they would have Some Provisions for
us, we Camped in a Bend at the Mo. of a Small creek, Soon after we came
too the Indians arrived with 4 Deer as a Present, for which we gave
them two qts. of whiskey-

This Day we passed Several Islands, and Some high lands on the
Starboard Side, Verry hard water.

[Clark, May 23, 1804]
Wednesday May 23rd 8 Indians Kick. Came to Camp with meat we recved
their pesents of 3 Deer & gave them Whisky.

Set out early run on a log under water and Detained one hour proceeded
on the Same Course of last night, (2 miles) passed the mouth of a creek
on the Sbd. Side called Woman of Osage River about 30 yds. over,
abounding in fish, Stoped one hour where their was maney people
assembled to See us, halted at an endented part of a Rock which juted
over the water, Called by the french the tavern which is a Cave 40 yds.
long with the river 4 feet Deep & about 20 feet high, this is a place
the Indians & french Pay omage to, many names are wrote up on the rock
Mine among others, at one mile above this rock coms in a small Creek
called Tavern Creek, abov one other Small Creek, camped at 6 oClock
(after expirencing great dificuselty in passing Some Drifts) on the Stb
Side, examined the mens arms found all in good order except the
Detachment of Solds in the Perogue- R Field Killed a Deer.

[Clark, May 23, 1804]
May 23rd Course of last night S 75 W Contined 2 miles to the Said point
St. Side passed the upper Point of the Island Thence S 52° W. 7 Miles to
a pt. on St. Sd. passing Tavern Island two Small Isd. in a bend to the
St. side the Mo. of Oge womans River at 1 m. the Cave Called the
Tavern, Lbd Side at 5 m. Situated in the Clifts, opposit a Small Island
on the Stbd Side (R. & Jo. Fields came in) with many people, passed the
Tavern Cave, Capt Lewis assended the hill which has peninsulis
projecting in raged points to the river, and was near falling from a
Peninsulia hard water all Day Saved himself by the assistance of his
Knife, passed a Creek 15 yds. wide at 1 mile called Creek of the Tavern
on the Lbd. Side, Camped opposit the pt. which the Last Course was to.
one man Sick.

[Clark, May 23, 1804]
May 23rd Wednesday 1804
We Set out early ran on a Log and detained one hour, proceeded the
Course of Last night 2 Miles to the mouth of a Creek on the Stbd. Side
Called Osage Womans R, about 30 yds. wide, opposit a large Island and a
Settlement. (on this Creek 30 or 40 famlys are Settled) Crossed to the
Settlemt. and took in R & Jo. Fields who had been Sent to purchase Corn
& Butter &c. many people Came to See us, we passed a large Cave on the
Lbd. Side about 120 feet wide 40 feet Deep & 20 feet high many
different immages are Painted on the Rock at this place. the Inds &
French pay omage. many hams are wrote on the rock, Stoped about one
mile above for Capt Lewis who had assended the Clifts which is at the
Said Cave 300 fee high, hanging over the Water, the water excessively
Swift to day, we incamped below a Small Isld. in the Meadle of the
river, Sent out two hunters, one Killed a Deer

This evening we examined the arms and amunition found those mens arms
in the perogue in bad order a fair evening Capt. Lewis near falling
from the Pencelia of rocks 300 feet, he caught at 20 foot.

[Clark, May 24, 1804]
Thursday May the 24th 1804 Set out early passed a Small Isd in the
Midlle of the river, opposit the on the Lbd. Side is projecting Rock of
1/2 a mile in extent against which the Current runs, this place is
called the Devils race grounds,1 above this Coms in a Small Creek
called the little quiver, a Sand Island on the Stbd Side, passed
Several Islands & 2 creeks, on the Stbd Side a Small Island on the Lbd
Side above we wer verry near loseing our Boat in Toeing She Struck the
Sands the Violence of the Current was so great that the Toe roap Broke,
the Boat turned Broadside, as the Current Washed the Sand from under
her She wheeled & lodged on the bank below as often as three times,
before we got her in Deep water, nothing Saved her but

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