Books: The Letters of Norah on her Tour Through Ireland

M >> Margaret Dixon McDougall >> The Letters of Norah on her Tour Through Ireland

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After I had listened to the farmer's wrongs and heard of others who also
had a complaint to make, I was obliged to think that their case was not
yet so hard as the case of those who suffered from the
_eccentricities_ of Lord Leitrim. Still, it is a hard case when we
consider that the man's whole life and so much money also sunk in rent,
purchase, improvements, and when unable to pay a rent raised beyond the
possibility of paying, to lose all and begin life again without money or
youth and hope, at sixty years of age. People with exasperated minds are
driven to join the Land League, in hope that union will be strength, and
that ears deaf to petition of right will grant concessions to agitation.

I began to feel afraid that I was hearing too much on one side and too
little on the other, and I requested to be introduced to some who had
ranged themselves on the side of the landlords. I was, as a consequence,
introduced to several gentlemen at different times, but I got no light
on the subject from any of them. They were so very sure that everything
was just as it should be, and nothing short of treason would induce any
one to find fault. Still when the question was asked squarely, "Are
there no reasons for wishing for reform of the land laws?" the answer
was, "We would not go quite so far as that?" There was a vague
acknowledgment that, generally speaking, some reform was needed, and yet
every particular thing was defended as all right on the whole, or not
very far wrong.

XXIII.

A MODEL LANDLORD--ERIN'S SONS IN OTHER LANDS.

I have, at last, heard of a model landlord; not that I have not heard
of good landlords before, as Mr. Humphreys and Mr. Stewart, of Ards, in
Donegal. I have seen also the effects of good landlordism. When passing
through the Galgorm estate I saw the beneficial changes wrought on that
place by Mr. Young; but I have heard of many hard landlords, seen much
misery as the result of the present land tenure, and I did feel glad to
hear men praising a landlord without measure. It was a pleasant change.
This landlord who has won such golden opinions is Lord Belmore, of
Castle Coole. "The Land League has gained no adherents on his estate,"
says one to me, "because he is such a just man. He is a man who will
decide for what he thinks right though he should decide to his own hurt.
Eviction has never occurred on his place; there is no rack rent, no
vexatious office rules."

As I have listened to story after story of tyranny on the Leitrim
estate, so here I listened to story after story of the strict justice
and mercy of Lord Belmore. His residence of Castle Coole is outside of
Enniskillen a little, and is counted very beautiful. Of course I went to
get a peep at it, because he is a lord whom all men praise. "His
tenants," said one, "not only do not blame him but they glory in him.
Why should they join the Land League? They get all it promises without
doing so." As we drove along I heard his justice, his sense of right,
his praise, in short, repeated in every way possible. I have noticed
about this lord that to mention his name to any one who knows him is
quite enough to set them off in praise of him. As he is not an immensely
wealthy peer, but has been obliged to part with some of his property, it
is the more glorious the enthusiastic good name he has won for himself.

We drove across a long stretch of gravel drive through scenery like
fairyland. A fair sheet of water lay below the house, bordered by trees
that seemed conscious of their owner's renown by the way they tossed
their heads upward and spread their branches downward, as saying, "Look
at us: everything here bears examination and demands admiration." Swans
ruffled their snowy plumage and sailed with stately bendings of their
white necks across the lake. Wild geese with the lameness of perfect
confidence grouped themselves on the shore or played in the water. Coots
swam about in their peculiar bobbing way, as if they were up to fun in
some sly manner of their own. Across the lake were sloping hills rising
gently from the water arrayed in the brightest of green. Grand stately
trees stood with the regal repose of a grand dame, every fold of their
leafy dress arranged with the skilful touch of that superb artist, Dame
Nature.

My driver, with a becoming awe upon him of the magnificent grounds, the
stately house and the high-souled lord, drove along the most
unfrequented paths, and we came, in the rear of the great house, to a
quaint little saw-mill in a hollow, a toy affair that did not mean
business, but such as a great lord might have as a proper appanage to
wide land and as a convenience to retainers.

After some whispered consultation with the man in charge, it was
certified that we might drive round, quite round the castle, and,
favored by fortune, might chance to see the housekeeper and get
permission to see the inside of the house. I knew the house was very
nice by intuition; it was very extensive, and I was sure held any
quantity of pleasant and magnificent rooms; but someway I did not desire
to go through it. I should have liked to have seen its lord, this modern
Aristides, whom I was not tired of hearing called the just. The lord
with the cold stately manner, but the heart that decided matters, like
Hugh Miller's uncle Sandy, giving the poor man the "cast of the bauk,"
even to his own hurt.

We drove down the broad walk just out of sight of the extensive gardens
and conservatories, between trees of every style of magnificence down to
the lodge gate which was opened to us promptly and graciously. You can
always judge of a lord by the courtesy or the want of it in his
retainers. Indeed I believe that even dogs and horses are influenced by
those that own them, and become like them in a measure. I waft thee my
heart's homage, lord of Castle Coole! Thy good name, thy place in the
hearts of thy countrymen, could not be bought for three thousand pounds
sterling wrung "by ways that are dark," from an exasperated tenantry.
The drive back to Enniskillen with another suggestive peep at the lake
was delicious and enjoyable.

In Enniskillen I wandered into the Catholic church, the only church I
could wander into without a fuss about getting the key. It is grand, and
severely plain in the absence of pictures and ornaments.

I am told there was a good deal of distress in the County Fermanagh, and
that they obtained relief from the Mansion House Fund and from the
Johnston Committee Fund. This Johnston was a Fermanagh man, and has
risen to wealth in the new world under the Stars and Stripes. The sons
and daughters of Ireland do not forget, in their prosperity on far-off
shores, the land of their birth and of their childhood's dreams.

Like the daisies on the sod,
With their faces turned to God,
Their hearts' roots are in the island green
that nursed them on her lap.

Suffering from want in those hard times must have been comparatively
slight in Enniskillen, as the local charity was strong enough to relieve
it, I was informed by an Episcopal clergyman.

XXIV.

SELLING CATTLE FOR RENT--THE SHADOW OF MR. SMITH--GENERATIONS OF
WAITING--UNDER THE WING OF THE CLERGY--A SAFE MEDIUM COURSE--THE
CONSTABULARY--EXERTIONS OF THE PRIESTS--A TERMAGANT.

Hearing that there was a great disturbance apprehended at Manor
Hamilton, in the County Leitrim, and that the military were ordered out,
I determined to go there. I wanted to see for myself. I put on my best
bib and tucker, knowing how important these things are in the eyes of
imaginative people. Arrived at the station in the dewy morning, and
found the lads whom I had seen carrying their dinners at the Redoubt
drawn up on the platform under arms. How, boyish, slight and under-sized
they did look, but clean, smart and bright looking, of course. Applied
at the wicket for my ticket, as the 'bus man was eager to get paid and
see me safely off. The ticket man told me curtly I was in no hurry, and
shut the wicket in my face. The idea prevails here, except in the cases
of the local gentry who are privileged, and to whom the obsequiousness
is remarkable, that the general public, besides paying for their
accommodation, ought to accept their tickets as a favor done them by the
Company. This stately official at last consented to issue tickets; as I
had not change enough to pay I gave him a sovereign, and, not having
time to count the change, I stuffed it into my portmonnaie and made a
rush for the cars as they snorted on the start.

In spite of my determination, made amid the smoke and filth of the
third-class cars between Omagh and Strabane, I took a third-class car,
and to my agreeable surprise it was clean, and I had it to myself. We
steamed out of Enniskillen, all the workers in the fields and the people
in the houses dropping their work to stare at the cars, crowded with
soldiers, that were passing. I had a letter of introduction to an
inhabitant of Manor Hamilton, as a precaution. We passed one of the
entrances to Florence Court, the residence of the once-loved Earl of
Enniskillen. When I understood that this nobleman was up in years, his
magnificent figure beginning to show the burden of age, and that he was
blind, I felt a respectful sympathy for him, and wished that the shadow
of Mr. Smith and his three thousand of increase of rent had never fallen
across his path. After passing the road to Florence Court, when the
train was not plunging through a deep cut, I noticed that the land did
not, all over, look so green or so fertile as in the farther down North.
There was much land tufted with rushes, much that had the peculiar shade
of greenish brown familiar to Canadian eyes. There were many roofless
cottages standing here and there in the wide clearings. There were bleak
bogs of the light colored kind that produce a very worthless turf, that
makes poor fuel.

At one of the way stations, a decent-looking woman came into the
compartment where I sat. Divining at once that I had crossed the water,
she spoke pretty freely. Their farm was on a mountain side. It had to be
dug with a spade; horses could not plough it. The seasons had been
against the crops for some years. Yes, their rent had been raised,
raised at different times until it was now three times was it was ten
years ago. She was going to the office to try to get some favor about
the rent. They could not pay it and live at all, and that was God's
truth. Had no hope of succeeding. Did not believe a better state of
things would come without the shedding of blood. "Oh, yes, it is true
for you, they have no arms and no drill, but they look to America to do
for them what they cannot do for themselves. Oh, of course it should be
the last thing tried, but generations of waiting was in it already, and
every hope was disappointed some way." The laws got harder and the crops
shorter, that was the way of it.

Arrived at Manor Hamilton, every male creature about congregated with
looks of wonder to watch the military arrive. They were a totally
unexpected arrival, and caused the more sensation in consequence. There
were none to answer a question until these boyish soldiers had been
paraded, counted, put through some manoeuvres of drill, and then "'bout
face and march" off. They seemed so alive, so eager for fun, so
different from the stolid-faced veteran soldier that I hoped inwardly
that to-day's exploits would not deepen into anything worse than fun.

When they tramped off, carrying their young faces and conscious smiles
away from the station, I found a porter to inform me that Manor Hamilton
was a good bit away. As there was no car I must walk, and a passing
peasant undertook to pilot me to the town. Passed a large Roman Catholic
church in process of erection. It will be a fine and extensive building
when finished. They were laying courses of fine light gray hewn stone
rounded, marking where the basement ended and the building proper began.
Such a building, at such a time, is one of the contradictions one sees
in this country.

Stopped at a hotel and was waited on by the person to whom my letter of
introduction was directed, who introduced me to some other persons,
including some priests. It was ostensibly an introduction, really an
inspection. Only for this introduction I should not have got admittance
into the hotel. People were arriving from every quarter. I stood at an
upper window watching the people arrive in town. The first band,
preceded by a solemn and solitary horseman, consisted of a big drum
beaten by no unwilling hand, and some fifes. They played, "Tramp, Tramp,
the Boys are Marching," with great vim. The next detachment had a banner
carried by two men, the corners steadied by cords held by two more. It
was got up fancy, in green and gold, a picture of Mr. Parnell on one
side, and some mottoes on the other. "Live and let live," was one. The
band of this company, some half-dozen fifers, were dressed in jackets of
green damask rimmed with yellow braid, and had caps made of green and
yellow, or green and white, of the same shape as those worn by the
police. The operator on the big drum had a white jacket and green cap.
He held his head so high, his back was so straight, his cap set so
knowingly on one side, he rattled away with such abandon, and looked as
if he calculated that he was a free and independent citizen, that I
guessed he had learned those airs and that bearing in classic New York.
The next detachment had a brass band and some green favors and a green
scarf among them.

One of the clergy to whom I was introduced, volunteered to show me to a
position from which I would safely see the whole performance, which was
the auction of cattle for rent--I was quite glad to have the kind
offices of this gentleman, as without them I would have seen very little
indeed. As I passed down the street under the wing of the clergy, I was
amused at the innocent manner in which a half-dozen or so would get
between his reverence and me, blocking the way, until they understood I
was in his care, when a lane opened before us most miraculously, and
closed behind us as the human waves surged on.

The police officers and men were patient and polite to high perfection.
We made our way to the Court House, where the soldiers were drawn up
inside, crowding the entrance hall and standing on the stairs. It was
thought the sale would be in the Court House yard, in which case the
official offered me a seat on the gallery. As the building was low, the
long windows serving for both stories, it would be only a good position
if the cattle were auctioned in the Court yard. This had been done
before, and would be prevented if possible this time, as it was too
private a proceeding. Meanwhile I sat in the official room, the kitchen
in short, and waited looking at the peat fire in the little grate, the
flitches of bacon hanging above the chimney, the canary that twittered
in a subdued manner in its cage, as if it felt instinctively the
expectant hush that was in the air.

It was decided to hold the sale on the bridge, so I was piloted through
the military, through a living lane of police, through the surging
crowd, to a house that was supposed to command the situation, and found
a position at an upper window by the great kindness of the clergyman who
had taken me in charge.

It is something awful to see a vast mass of human beings, packed as
closely as there is standing room, swayed by some keen emotion, like the
wind among the pines. It is wonderful, too, to see the effects of
perfect discipline. The constabulary, a particularly fine body of men,
with faces as stolid as if they were so many statues, bent on doing
their duty faithfully and kindly. They formed a living wall across the
road on each side of an open space on the bridge, backs to the space,
faces to the crowd, vigilant, patient, unheeding of any uncomplimentary
remarks.

The cause of all this excitement was the seizure of cattle which were to
be sold for rent due to Cecil White, Esq., by his tenants, at the manor
of Newtown.

The crowd here was far greater than at Omagh the day of the Land League
meeting. The first roll of the drum had summoned people from near and
far in the early morning. I am not a good judge of the number in a
crowd, but I should say there were some thousands, a totally unarmed
crowd; very few had even a stick. There were few young men in the crowd--
elderly men and striplings, elderly women and young girls, and a good
many children, and, of course the irrepressible small boy who did the
heavy part of the hissing and hooting. These young lads roosted on the
Court House wall, on the range wall of the bridge so thickly that the
wonder was how they could keep their position. The crowd heaved and
swayed at the other end of the bridge, a tossing tide of heads. The
excitement was there.

I could not see what was going on, but a person deputed by the clergyman
before mentioned, came to bring me to a better station for seeing what
was going on at the other end of the bridge. The crowd made way, the
police passed us through, and we got a station at a window overlooking
the scene. Out of the pound, through the swaying mass of people, was
brought a very frightened animal. If she had had no horns to grip her
by, if she had had the least bit of vantage ground to gather herself up
for a jump, she would have taken a flying leap over the heads of some
and left debtor and creditor, and all the sympathizers on both sides
behind her, and fled to the pasture. She was held there and bid for in
the most ridiculous way. All that were brought up this way were bought
in and the rent was paid, and there the sale ended

There might have been serious rioting but for the exertions of the
Catholic clergy. Members of the Emergency Committee were particularly
liable to a hustling at least. The least accidental irritation owing to
the temper of the crowd would have made them face the bayonets with
their bare breasts. The police were patient, the clergy determined on
keeping the excitement down, and all passed off quietly enough. There
were a few uncomplimentary remarks, such as addressing the police as
"thim bucks" which remark might as well have been addressed to the court
house for any effect it had. There were a few hard expressions slung at
Mr. White which informed all who heard them that Mr. White was cashiered
from the army for flogging a man to death, that he had well earned his
name of Jack the flogger, &c.

The crowd dispersed from the bridge. The youthful military passed on the
march for the train to return to their barracks, the crowd, now good-
natured, giving them a few jokes of a pleasant kind as they passed; the
soldiers looking straight ahead in the most soldierly manner they could
assume, but smiling all the same, poor boys, for surely compliments are
better than hisses and hoots.

I never heard a sound so dreadful as the universal groan or hoot of this
great crowd. There was some speaking, a good deal of speaking, from the
window of the hotel, praising the crowd for their self-control, and
advising them to go home quietly for the honor of the country and the
good cause.

After the sale, the three bands and the great crowd, paraded the
streets. The cattle were brought round in the procession, their heads
snooded up for the occasion with green ribbon. I do not think the cattle
liked it a bit; they had had a full share of excitement in the first
part of the day.

The most active partisan of the Land League was an elderly girl. She was
the inventor and issuer of the most aggravating epithets that were put
into circulation during the whole proceedings. Her hair was dark and
gray (dhu glas), every hair curling by itself in the most defiant
manner. The heat of her patriotism had worn off some of the hair, for
she was getting a little bald through her curls--such an assertive
upturned little nose, such a firm mouth, such a determined protruding
chin. This patriot had a short jacket of blue cloth, and could step as
light and give a jump as if she had feathered heels. She reminded me of
certain citizenesses in Dickens' "Tale of Two Cities." May God of His
great mercy give wisdom and firmness to the rulers of this land.

XXV.

THE LABORING CLASSES IN MANOR HAMILTON--THEIR HOMES--LOOKING FOR HER
SHARE--CHARGES AGAINST AN UNPOPULAR LANDLORD.

I called upon a clergyman in Manor Hamilton in pursuit of information
as to the condition of the laboring class. Manor Hamilton is a small
inland town, depending solely on agriculture. Want of work is the
complaint. Out of work is the chronic state of things among the laboring
population. A few laborers are employed on the Catholic church in
process of erection. The railway is newly finished between Enniskillen
and Manor Hamilton. While it was being made it supplied work to a great
many. Rail communication with the rest of the country must be a benefit
to the town and the surrounding country.

The hopes nourished by the Land League prevent the people from sinking
into despair or rousing to desperation. "Have the laboring class any
garden ground to their homes?" I asked. "No. You would not like to see
their homes. They are not fit for anyone to go into," was the answer. It
is good sometimes to look at what others are obliged to endure.

Having provided myself with infinitesimal parcels of tea and sugar for
the very aged or the helplessly sick, I set out with the clergyman and
went up unexpected lanes and twisted round unlikely corners, dived into
low tenements and climbed up unreliable stairs into high ones. One home,
without a window, no floor but the ground, not a chair or table, dark
with smoke, and so small that we, standing on the floor, took up all the
available room, paid a rent of $16 per year, paid weekly. The husband
was out of work, the wife kept a stall on market days, and sold sweets
and cakes on commission.

Another hovel, divided into two apartments like stalls in a horse
stable, a ladder leading up to a loft where an old gate and some
indescribably filthy boards separated it into another two apartments,
accommodated four families. The rent of the whole was $52 per year, paid
weekly. One of the inmates of this tenement, an old, old man, whose
clothing was shreds and patches, excused himself from going into the
workhouse by declaring that there were bad car-ack-ters in there, while
he and his father before him were ever particular about their company.

Children, like the field daisy, abound everywhere. In one hovel a brand
new baby lay in a box, and another scarcely able to walk toddled about,
and a lot more, like a flock of chickens, were scattered here and there.
In one of these homes a small child was making a vigorous attempt to
sweep the floor. On asking for her mother, the little mite said, "She is
away looking for her share." This is the popular way of putting a name
on begging.

One inhabitant made heather brooms, or besoms, as they are called here.
He goes to the mountain, cuts heather, draws it home on his back, makes
the besoms, and sells them for a halfpenny apiece.

In one hovel a little boy lay dying of consumption--another name for
cold and hunger--his bed a few rags, a bit of sacking and a tattered
coat the only bed-clothes. "I am very bad entirely, father," was the
little fellow's complaint. I stood back while the father talked to him,
and it was easy to see that he had well practised how to be a son of
consolation. It was a cold windy day, and the wind blew in freely
through the broken door. Surely, I thought, the workhouse would be
comparative comfort to this child; but it seems that the whole family
must go in if he went. The saddest consideration of all is the want of
work--excitement like what is in the country now must be bad for idle
and hungry men.

Mr. Corscadden and Mr. Tottenham, the contractor for the railway, are
the two landlords who are most unpopular. Mr. White, one of those who
had the cattle seized for rent, is also unpopular, very. Mr. Corscadden
is a new landlord, comparatively speaking; was an agent before he became
a proprietor. He is at open war with his tenantry. He requires an escort
of police. His son has been shot at and missed by a narrow enough shave,
one ball going through his hat, another grazing his forehead. This is
coming quite nigh enough. Some buildings on his property in which hay
was stored were burned--by the tenants, thinks Mr. Corscadden; by the
Lord, say the people. I hope to see Mr. Corscadden personally, so I have
made particular enquiries as to what he has done to deserve the ill-
feeling that rages against him.

The chief charges against Mr. Corscadden are wasting away the people off
the land to make room for cattle and black-faced sheep; taking from the
people the mountain attached to their farms which they used for pasture,
and then doubling the rent on what remained after they had lost part.

The land out by Glenade (the long glen) is very poor in parts. The
amount of cultivated fields does not seem enough to supply the
inhabitants with food. The country has in a large degree gone to grass.
There is also a suspicion of grass on the mountain sides which are bare
of heather and whins. They say the grass is sweet and good, and that
cattle flourish on it, but the improved quality of stock and milch cows
require additional tub feed to keep them in a thriving condition. There
are some rich-looking fields, but the most of the land has a poverty-
stricken look and the large majority of the houses are simply
abominable.

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