Books: The Natural History of Wiltshire

J >> John Aubrey >> The Natural History of Wiltshire

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To C. R. WELD, Esq. Assistant Secretary to the Royal Society, I am
indebted for affording facilities for copying the manuscript.

Lastly, my obligations and thanks are due to MR. T. E. JONES, for the
accurate transcript which he made from Aubrey's fair manuscript, for
collating the same with the original at Oxford, for selecting and
arranging the extracts which are now for the first time printed, and
for his scrupulous and persevering assistance throughout the
preparation of the entire volume. But for such essential aid, it would
have been out of my power to produce the work as it is now presented
to the members of the "Wiltshire Topographical Society," and to the
critical reader.

JOHN BRITTON.

Burton Street, London.
1st September, 1847.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Title-page, with View of the Upper Part of the Tower of Sutton Benger
Church.

DEDICATION to G. P. SCROPE, Esq. M.P.

The EDITOR'S PREFACE; with Historical and Descriptive Particulars of
Aubrey's Manuscripts

Title-page to the Original Manuscript

DEDICATION, by Aubrey, to THOMAS, EARL of PEMBROKE

The AUTHOR'S Original PREFACE.

Letter from John Ray to Aubrey, with Comments on the Writings of the
latter.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. CHOROGRAPHIA :- Geological Remarks,
Local Influences

List of "THE CHAPTERS"

PART I.

CHAP. I. AIR:-Winds, Mists, Storms, Meteors, Echos, Sounds

CHAP. II. SPRINGS MEDICINAL :- At Chippenham, Kington St. Michael,
Draycot, Seend, Epsom, Melksham, Dundery-hill, Lavington, Devizes,
Minety, Wotton Bassett, &c.; Sir W. Petty's "Queries for the Tryall of
Minerall Waters"

CHAP. III. RIVERS :- Wily, North Avon, Upper Avon, Nadder, Stour,
Deverill, Kennet, Marden, Thames, &c.; Proposal for a Canal to connect
the Thames and North Avon.

CHAP. IV. SOILS :- Clay, Marl, Fuller's Earth, Chalk, Gravel, Sand;
Downs, Fairy-rings, Becket's Path at Winterbourn, Peat, Spontaneous
Vegetation, Hills

CHAP. V. MINERALS AND FOSSILS :- Iron, Silver, Copperas, Umber, Spar,
Lead, Coal.

CHAP. VI. STONES :- Of Haselbury, Chilmark, and Swindon; Lime, Chalk,
Pebbles, Flints; the Grey Wethers

CHAP. VII. FORMED STONES :- Belemnites, Madrepores, Oysters,
Astroites, Cornua Ammonia, Echini, &c.

CHAP. VIII. AN HYPOTHESIS OF THE TERRAQUEOUS GLOBE :-Learned
Speculations on the structure of the Earth.

CHAP. IX. PLANTS :- Herbs, Orcheston Knot-grass, Alhanna, Tobacco,
Oak, Elm, Beech, Hazel, Yew, Box, Holly, Osiers, Elders, Ash,
Glastonbury Thorn, &c.

CHAP. X. BEASTS :- Deer, Hares, Rabbits, Dogs, Cattle

CHAP. XI. FISHES :- Trout, Eels, Umbers or Grayling, Carp, Tench,
Salmon; Fish-ponds, &c.

CHAP. XII. BIRDS :- Larks, Woodpeckers, Bustards, Crows, Pheasants,
Hawks, Sea-gulls, &c.

CHAP. XIII. REPTILES AND INSECTS :- Snakes, Adders, Toads, Snails,
Bees; Recipe to make Metheglyn

CHAP. XIV. MEN AND WOMEN:- Longevity, Remarkable Births, &c..

CHAP. XV. DISEASES AND CURES :- Leprosy, the Plague, Gout, Ricketts,
Pin-and-Web, &c.

CHAP. XVI. OBSERVATIONS ON PARISH REGISTERS :- Population, Poor
Rates, Periodical Diseases

PART II.

CHAP. I. WORTHIES :- Princes, Saints, Prelates, Statesmen, Writers,
Musicians; John Aubrey, Captain Thomas Stump

CHAP. II. THE GRANDEUR OF THE HERBERTS, EARLS OF PEMBROKE:-
Description of Wilton. House; Pictures, Library, Armoury, Gardens,
Stables ; the Earl's Hounds and Hawks, Tilting at Wilton, &c.

CHAP. III. LEARNED MEN WHO HAD PENSIONS GRANTED TO THEM BY THE EARLS
OF PEMBROKE:- With Notices of Mary, Countess of Pembroke,
Dr. Mouffet, William Browne, Philip Massinger, J. Donne, &c.

CHAP. IV. GARDENS:- At Lavington, Chelsea, Wilton, Longleat

CHAP. V. ARTS, LIBERAL AND MECHANICAL:- Learning, Colleges; Trades,
Inventions, Machinery

CHAP. VI. ARCHITECTURE:- Stonehenge, Avebury, Old Sarum, Salisbury
Cathedral, Wardour Castle, Calne Church, Painted Glass, Bradenstoke
Priory, Market Crosses, Paving Tiles, Old Mansions, Church Bells

CHAP. VII. AGRICULTURE:- Manures, Water Meadows, Butter and Cheese,
Malting and Brewing

CHAP. VIII. THE DOWNES:- Pastoral Life, Sydney's Arcadia; Sheep,
Shepherds, Pastoral Poetry

CHAP. IX. WOOL:- Qualities of Wool; its Growth, and Manufacture

CHAP. X. FALLING OF RENTS in Wiltshire attributed to the reduced
price of Wool

CHAP. XI. HISTORY OF THE CLOTHING TRADE:- Merchants of the Staple;
Introduction of the Cloth Manufacture

CHAP. XII. EMINENT CLOTHIERS or WILTSHIRE:- John Hall, of Salisbury;
William Stump, of Malmsbury; Paul Methuen, of Bradford, &c.

CHAP. XIII. FAIRS AND MARKETS:-At Castle-Combe, Wilton, Chilmark,
Salisbury, Devizes, Warminster, Marlborough, Lavington, Highworth,
Swindon

CHAP. XIV. HAWKS AND HAWKING:- Extraordinary Flight, Historical
Details

CHAP. XV. THE RACE:- Salisbury Races, Famous Race Horses,
Stobball-play

CHAP. XVI. NUMBER OF ATTORNEYS IN WILTSHIRE:- Increase of Attorneys
the Cause of Litigation

CHAP. XVII. FATALITIES OF FAMILIES AND PLACES:- Norrington, Castle-
Combe, Stanton St. Quintin, Easton Piers

CHAP. XVIII. ACCIDENTS, OR REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES:- Destruction of
Marlborough by Fire; Cure of the King's Evil, Pretended Witchcraft,
Mysterious Knockings at North Tidworth, Witches Executed at Salisbury,
Phantoms

CHAP. XIX. SEATS:- Merton, Ivy-church, Littlecot, Longleat,
Tottenham Park, Wardour Castle

CHAP. XX. DRAUGHTS OF THE SEATS AND PROSPECTS:- Aubrey's
Instructions to the Artists for a Map of the County, with Engravings
of the Principal Buildings and Views

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MEMOIRES

OF

NATURALL REMARQUES

IN THE

County of Wilts:

TO WHICH ARE ANNEXED,

OBSERVABLES OF THE SAME KIND

IN THE COUNTY OF SURREY, AND

FLYNTSHIRE.

BY

MR. JOHN AUBREY, R.S.S.

1685.

PSALM 92, v. 5, 6.
"0 LORD, HOW GLORIOUS ARE THY WORKES: THY THOUGHTS ARE VERY DEEP. AN
UNWISE MAN DOTH NOT WELL CONSIDER THIS: AND A FOOL DOTH NOT
UNDERSTAND IT."

PSALM 77, v. 11.
"I WILL REMEMBER THE WORKES OF THE LORD: AND CALL
TO MIND THY WONDERS OF OLD TIME."

GRATII PALISCI CYNEGETICON.

"O RERUM PRUDENS QUANTUM EXPERIENTIA VULGO
MATERIEM LARGILIA BONI, SI VINCERE CURENT
DESIDIAM, ET GRATOS AGITANDO PREBENDERE FINES !
------- DEUS AUCTOR, ET IPSA
AREM ALUIT NATURA SUAM."

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TO

THE RIGHT HONOURABLE

THOMAS, EARLE OF PEMBROKE AND MONTGOMERIE,

LORD HERBERT OF CAERDIFFE, &c.;

ONE OF THE PRIVY COUNCELL TO THEIR MAJESTIES,
AND PRESIDENT OF THE ROYALL SOCIETIE.

[A page is appropriated in the manuscript to the Author's intended
DEDICATION ; the name and titles of his patron only being filled in,
as above.

The nobleman named is particularly mentioned by Aubrey in his Chapter
on "The Worthies of Wiltshire", printed in a subsequent part of this
volume. He was Earl of Pembroke from 1683 till his death in 1733; and
was distinguished for his love of literature and the fine arts. He
formed the Wilton Collection of marbles, medals, and coins; and
succeeded John, Earl of Carbery, as President of the Royal Society, in
November, 1689.- J. B.]

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PREFACE.

TILL about the yeare 1649,* 'twas held a strange presumption for a man
to attempt an innovation in learning; and not to be good manners to be
more knowing than his neighbours and forefathers. Even to attempt an
improvement in husbandry, though it succeeded with profit, was look't
upon with an ill eie. "Quo non Livor abit?"† Their neighbours did
scorne to follow it, though not to do it was to their own detriment.
'Twas held a sinne to make a scrutinie into the waies of nature;
whereas Solomon saieth, "Tradidit mundum disputationibus hominum": and
it is certainly a profound part of religion to glorify GOD in his
workes.‡

* Experimentall Philosophy was then first cultivated by a club at
Oxon.

† Ovid. Fast.

‡ "Deus est maximus in minimis. Prsæsentemque refert quælibet Herba
Deum".

In those times to have had an inventive and enquiring witt was
accounted resverie [affectation§], which censure the famous Dr.
William Harvey could not escape for his admirable discovery of the
circulation of the blood. He told me himself that upon his publishing
that booke he fell in his practice extremely.

§ [The words inclosed within brackets are inserted in Aubrey's
manuscript above the preceding words, of which they were intended as
corrections or modifications. If the work had been printed by the
author he would doubtless have adopted those words which he deemed
most expressive of his meaning.- J. B.]

Foreigners say of us that we are "Lyncei foris, Talpœ domi". There is
no nation abounds with greater varietie of soiles, plants, and
mineralls than ours; and therefore it very well deserves to be
surveyed. Certainly there is no hunting to be compared with "Venatio
Panos"; and to take no notice at all of what is dayly offered before
our eyes is grosse stupidity.

I was from my childhood affected with the view of things rare; which
is the beginning of philosophy : and though I have not had leisure
to make any considerable proficiency in it, yet I was carried on with
a strong [secret] inpulse to undertake this taske: I knew not why,
unles for my owne private [particular] pleasure. Credit there was
none; for it getts the disrespect [contempt] of a man's neighbours.
But I could not rest [be] quiet till I had obeyed this secret call.
Mr. Camden, Dr. Plott, and Mr. Wood confess the same [like].

I am the first that ever made an essay of this kind for Wiltshire,
and, for ought I know, in the nation; having begun it in An°. 1656. In
the yeare 1675 I became acquainted with Dr. Robert Plott, who had then
his "Naturall Historie of Oxfordshire " upon the loome, which I
seeing he did performe so excellently well, desired him to undertake
Wiltshire, and I would give him all my papers: as I did [he had] also
my papers of Surrey as to the naturall things, and offered him my
further assistance. But he was then invited into Staffordshire to
illustrate that countie; which having finished in December 1684, I
importuned him again to undertake this county: but he replied he was
so taken up in [arranging ?] of the Museum Ashmoleanum that he should
meddle no more in that kind, unles it were for his native countie of
Kent; and therefore wished me to finish and publish what I had begun.
Considering therefore that if I should not doe this myselfe, my papers
might either perish, or be sold in an auction, and somebody else, as
is not uncommon, put his name to my paines; and not knowing any one
that would undertake this designe while I live, I have tumultuarily
stitch't up what I have many yeares since collected; being chiefly but
the observations of my frequent road between South and North Wilts;
that is, between Broad Chalke and Eston Piers. If I had had then
leisure, I would willingly have searched the naturalls of the whole
county. It is now fifteen yeares since I left this country, and have
at this distance inserted such additions as I can call to mind, so
that methinks this description is like a picture that Mr. Edm.
Bathurst, B.D. of Trinity Colledge, Oxon, drew of Dr. Kettle three
[some] yeares after his death, by strength of memory only; he had so
strong an idea of him: and it did well resemble him. I hope hereafter
it will be an incitement to some ingeniouse and publique spirited
young Wiltshire man to polish and compleat what I have here delivered
rough-hewen; for I have not leisure to heighten my style. And it may
seem nauseous to some that I have rak't up so many western vulgar
proverbs, which I confess I do not disdeigne to quote,* for proverbs
are drawn from the experience and observations of many ages; and are
the ancient natural philosophy of the vulgar, preserved in old English
in bad rhythmes, handed downe to us; and which I set here as
"Instantiæ Crucis" for our curious moderne philosophers to examine and
give {Gk: dioti} to their {Gk: hostis}.

* Plinie is not afraide to call them Oracles: (Lib. xviii. Nat. Hist.
cap. iv.) "Ac primum omnium oraculis majore ex parte agemus, qua non
in alio vite genere plura certiorara sunt."

But before I fly at the marke to make a description of this county, I
will take the boldness to cancelleer, and give a generall description
of what parts of England I have seen, as to the soiles : which I call
Chorographia Super and Sub-terranea (or thinke upon a more fitting
name).

London, Gresham Coll., June 6M, 1685.

[The original of the following LETTER from JOHN RAY to AUBREY is
inserted immediately after the Preface, in the MS. at Oxford. It is
not transcribed into the Royal Society's copy of the work. -J. B.]

FOR MR. JOHN AUBREY.

Sr,

Black Notley, 8br 27, -91.

Your letter of Octob. 22d giving advice of your safe return to London
came to hand, wch as I congratulate with you, so have I observed your
order in remitting your Wiltshire History, wch with this enclosed I
hope you will receive this week. I gave you my opinion concerning this
work in my last, wch I am more confirmed in by a second perusal, and
doe wish that you would speed it to ye presse. It would be convenient
to fill up ye blanks so far as you can; but I am afraid that will be a
work of time, and retard the edition. Whatever you conceive may give
offence may by ye wording of it be so softned and sweetned as to take
off ye edge of it, as pills are gilded to make them lesse ungratefull.
As for the soil or air altering the nature, and influencing the wits
of men, if it be modestly delivered, no man will be offended at it,
because it accrues not to them by their own fault: and yet in such
places as dull men's wits there are some exceptions to be made. You
know the poet observes that Democritus was an example -

Summos posse viros, et magna exempla daturos
Vervecû in patria, crassoque sub aere nasci.

Neither is yr observation universally true that the sons of labourers
and rusticks are more dull and indocile than those of gentlemen and
tradesmen; for though I doe not pretend to have become of the first
magnitude for wit or docility, yet I think I may without arrogance say
that in our paltry country school here at Braintry - "Ego meis me
minoribus condiscipulis ingenio prælu[si]": but perchance the
advantage I had of my contemporaries may rather be owing to my
industry than natural parts; so that I should rather say "studio" or
"industria excellui".

I think (if you can give me leave to be free with you) that you are a
little too inclinable to credit strange relations. I have found men
that are not skilfull in ye history of nature, very credulous, and apt
to impose upon themselves and others, and therefore dare not give a
firm assent to anything they report upon their own autority; but are
ever suspicious that they may either be deceived themselves, or
delight to teratologize (pardon ye word) and to make a shew of knowing
strange things.

You write that the Museum at Oxford was rob'd, but doe not say whether
your noble present was any part of the losse. Your picture done in
miniature by Mr. Cowper is a thing of great value, I remember so long
agoe as I was in Italy, and while he was yet living, any piece of his
was highly esteemed there; and for that kind of painting he was
esteemed the best artist in Europe.

What my present opinion is concerning formed stones, and concerning
the formation of the world, you will see in a discourse that is now
gone to the presse concerning the Dissolution of the World: my present
opinion, I say, for in such things I am not fix't, but ready to alter
upon better information, saving always ye truth of ye letter of ye
scripture. I thank you for your prayers and good wishes, and rest,

Sr, your very humble servant,

JOHN RAY.

I have seen many pheasants in a little grove by the city of Florence,
but I suppose they might have been brought in thither from some
foreign country by the Great Duke.

Surely you mistook what I wrote about elms. I never to my knowledge
affirmed that the most common elm grows naturally in the north: but
only thought that though it did not grow there, yet it might be native
of England: for that all trees doe not grow in all countreys or parts
of England. The wych-hazel, notwithstanding its name, is nothing akin
to the "corylus" but a true elm.

The story concerning the drawing out the nail driven crosse the wood-
pecker's hole is without doubt a fable.

Asseveres and vesicates are unusuall words, and I know not whether the
wits will allow them.
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[The name of John Ray holds a pre-eminent place amongst the
naturalists of Great Britain. He was the first in this country who
attempted a classification of the vegetable kingdom, and his system
possessed many important and valuable characteristics. Ray was the son
of a blacksmith at Black Notley, near Braintree, in Essex, where he
was born, in 1627. The letter here printed sufficiently indicates his
natural shrewdness and intelligence. One of his works here referred to
is entitled "Three Physico-Theological Discourses concerning Chaos,
the Deluge, and the Dissolution of the World," 1692. There is a well-
written memoir of Ray in the "Penny CyclopEedia," Aubrey's portrait,
by the celebrated miniature-painter Samuel Cooper, alluded to above,
is not now extant; but another portrait of him by Faithorne is
preserved in the Ashmolean Museum, and has been several times
engraved. A print from the latter drawing accompanied the "Memoirs of
Aubrey," published by the Wiltshire Topographical Society. Cooper died
in 1672, and was buried in the old church of St. Pancras, London. Ray
visited Italy between the years 1663 and 1666. J. B.]

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
CHOROGRAPHIA.

[IT has been thought sufficient to print only a few brief extracts
from this Introductory Chapter, which in the original is of
considerable length. Its title (derived from the Greek words {Gk:choros}
and {Gk: grapho}) is analogous to Geography. By far the greater
portion of it has no application to Wiltshire, but, on the contrary,
consists of Aubrey's notes, chiefly geological and botanical, on every
part of England which he had visited; embracing many of the counties.
His observations shew him to have been a minute observer of natural
appearances and phenomena, and in scientific knowledge not inferior to
many of his contemporaries; but, in the present state of science, some
of his remarks would be justly deemed erroneous and trivial.

It will be seen that he contends strongly for the influence of the
soil and air upon the mental and intellectual faculties or "wits", of
individuals; on which point some of his remarks are curious. Ray's
comments on this part of his subject will be found in the letter
already printed (page 7). "The temper of the earth and air", in the
opinion of Aubrey, caused the variance in "provincial pronunciation".

The author's theory of the formation and structure of the earth, which
is here incidentally noticed, will be adverted to in the description
of Chapter VIII. - J. B.]

PETRIFIED SHELLS.-As you ride from Cricklad to Highworth, Wiltsh., you
find frequently roundish stones, as big,, or bigger than one's head,
which (I thinke) they call braine stones, for on the outside they
resemble the ventricles of the braine; they are petrified sea
mushromes. [Fossil Madrepores ?-J. B.]

The free-stone of Haselbury [near Box] hath, amongst severall other
shells, perfect petrified scalop-shells. The rough stone about
Chippenham (especially at Cockleborough) is full of petrified cockles.
But all about the countrey between that and Tedbury, and about
Malmesbury hundred, the rough stones are full of small shells like
little cockles, about the bigness of a halfpenny.

At Dinton, on the hills on both sides, are perfect petrified shells in
great abundance, something like cockles, but neither striated, nor
invecked, nor any counter-shell to meet, but plaine and with a long
neck of a reddish gray colour, the inside part petrified sand; of
which sort I gave a quantity to the R. Society about twenty yeares
since; the species whereof Mr. Hooke says is now lost.

On Bannes-downe, above Ben-Eston near Bathe, [Banner-downe, near Bath-
Easton.- J. B.] where a battle of king Arthur was fought, are great
stones scattered in the same manner as they are on Durnham-downe,
about Bristow, which was assuredly the work of an earthquake, when these
great cracks and vallies were made.

The like dispersion of great stones is upon the hills by Chedar rocks,
as all about Charter House, [Somersetshire,] and the like at the
forest at Fountain-Bleau, in France; and so in severall parts of
England, and yet visible the remarques of earthquakes and volcanoes;
but in time the husbandmen will cleare their ground of them, as at
Durnham-downe they are exceedingly diminished since my remembrance, by
making lime of them.

The great inequality of the surface of the earth was rendred so by
earthquakes: which when taking fire, they ran in traines severall
miles according to their cavernes; so for instance at Yatton Keynell,
Wilts, a crack beginnes which runnes to Longdeanes, in the parish, and
so to Slaughtonford, where are high steep cliffs of freestone, and
opposite to it at Colern the like cliffs; thence to Bathe, where on
the south side appeare Claverdon, on the north, Lansdon cliffs, both
downes of the same piece; and it may be at the same tune the crack was
thus made at St. Vincent's rocks near Bristow, as likewise Chedar
rocks, like a street. From Castle Combe runnes a valley or crack to
Ford, where it shootes into that that runnes from Yatton to Bathe.
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Edmund Waller, Esq., the poet, made a quaere, I remember, at the Royal
Society, about 1666, whether Salisbury plaines were always plaines ?

In Jamaica, and in other plantations of America, e. g. in Virginia,
the natives did burn down great woods, to cultivate the soil with maiz
and potato-rootes, which plaines were there made by firing the woods
to sowe corne. They doe call these plaines Savannas. Who knowes but
Salisbury plaines, &c. might be made long time ago, after this manner,
and for the same reason ?

I have oftentimes wished for a mappe of England coloured according to
the colours of the earth; with markes of the fossiles and minerals.
[Geological maps, indicating, by different colours, the formations
of various localities, are now familiar to the scientific student. The
idea of such a map seems to have been first suggested by Dr. Martin
Lister, in a paper on "New Maps of Countries, with Tables of Sands,
Clays, &c." printed in the Philosophical Transactions, in 1683. The
Board of Agriculture published a few maps in 1794, containing
delineations of soils, &c.; and in 1815 Mr. William Smith produced the
first map of the strata of England and Wales. Since then G. B.
Greenough, Esq. has published a similar map, but greatly improved;
and numerous others, representing different countries and districts,
have subsequently appeared. - J. B.]
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The great snailes* on the downes at Albery in Surrey (twice as big as
ours) were brought from Italy by ..-.., Earle Marshal about 1638.
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OF THE INDOLES OF THE IRISH. - Mr. J. Stevens went from, Trinity
College in Oxford, 1647-8, to instruct the Lord Buckhurst in grammar;
afterwards he was schoolmaster of the Free Schoole at Camberwell;
thence he went to be master of Merchant Taylors' Schoole; next he was
master of the schoole at Charter House; thence he went to the Free
Schoole at Lever Poole, from whence he was invited to be a schoole
master of the great schoole at Dublin, in Ireland; when he left that
he was schoolmaster of Blandford, in Dorset; next of Shaftesbury; from
whence he was invited by the city of Bristoll to be master of the Free
Schoole there; from thence he went to be master of the Free Schoole of
Dorchester in Dorset, and thence he removed to be Rector of Wyley in
Wilts, 1666.

* Bavoli, (i.e.) drivelers.-J. EVELYN.

CHOROGRAPHIA: LOCAL INFLUENCES. 11

He is my old acquaintance, and I desired him to tell me freely if the
Irish Boyes had as good witte as the English; because some of our
severe witts have ridiculed the Irish understanding. He protested to
me that he could not find but they had as good witts as the English;
but generally speaking he found they had better memories. Dr. James
Usher, Lord Primate of Ireland, had a great memorie: Dr Hayle (Dr. of
the Chaire at Oxford) had a prodigious memorie: Sir Lleonell Jenkins
told me, from him, that he had read over all the Greeke fathers three
times, and never noted them but with his naile. Mr. .... Congreve, an
excellent dramatique poet. Mr. Jo. Dodwell hath also a great memorie,
and Mr. .... Tolet hathe a girle at Dublin, mathematique, who at
eleven yeares old would solve questions in Algebra to admiration. Mr.
Tolet told me he began to instruct her at seven yeares of age. See the
Journall of the R. Society de hoc.
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