Books: The Natural History of Wiltshire

J >> John Aubrey >> The Natural History of Wiltshire

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["Marlborough has often suffered by fire; particularly in the year
1690. Soon afterwards the town obtained an act of Parliament to
prohibit the covering of houses with thatch." Beauties of Wiltshire,
vol. ii. p. 177. A pamphlet was published in 1653 (12mo.) with the
following title:- "Take heed in time; or, a briefe relation of many
harmes that have of late been done by fire in Marlborough and other
places. Written by L. P." - J. B.]

In the gallery at Wilton hangs, under the picture of the first William
Earl of Pembroke, the picture of a little reddish picked-nose dog
(none of the prettiest) that his lordship loved. The dog starved
himself after his master's death.
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Dr. Ralph Bathurst, Dean of Wells, and one of the chaplains to King
Charles 1st, who is no superstitious man, protested to me that the
curing of the King's evill by the touch of the King doth puzzle his
philosophie: for whether they were of the house of Yorke or Lancaster
it did. 'Tis true indeed there are prayers read at the touching, but
neither the King minds them nor the chaplains. Some confidently report
that James Duke of Monmouth did it.
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Imposture. - Richard Heydock, M.D., quondam fellow of New College in
Oxford, was an ingenious and a learned person, but much against the
hierarchie of the Church of England. He had a device to gaine
proselytes, by preaching in his dreame; which was much noised abroad,
and talked of as a miracle. But King James 1st being at Salisbury went
to heare him. He observed that his harrangue was very methodicall, and
that he did but counterfeit a sleep. He surprised the doctor by
drawing his sword, and swearing, "God's waunes, I will cut off his
head"; at which the doctor startled and pretended to awake; and so the
cheat was detected.
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One M{istress} Katharine Waldron, a gentlewoman of good family, waited
on Sir Francis Seymor's lady, of Marleborough. Shee pretended to be
bewitched by a certain woman, and had acquired such a strange habit
that she would endure exquisite torments, as to have pinnes thrust
into her flesh, nay under her nailes. These tricks of hers were about
the time when King James wrote his Demonologie. His Majesty being in
these parts, went to see her in one of her fitts. Shee lay on a bed,
and the King saw her endure the torments aforesayd. The room, as it is
easily to be believed, was full of company. His Majesty gave a sodain
pluck to her coates, and tos't them over her head; which surprise made
her immediately start, and detected the cheate.
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[Speaking of the trial of Aim Bodenham, who was executed at Salisbury
as a witch in 1653, Aubrey says:-] Mr. Anthony Ettrick, of the Middle
Temple, a very judicious gentleman, was a curious observer of the
whole triall, and was not satisfied. The crowd of spectators made such
a noise that the judge [Chief Baron Wild] could not heare the
prisoner, nor the prisoner the judge; but the words were handed from
one to the other by Mr. R. Chandler, and sometimes not truly reported.
This memorable triall was printed about 165-. 4to. [See full
particulars in Hatcher's History of Salisbury, p. 418. - J. B.]
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In the time of King Charles II. the drumming at the house of Mr.
Monpesson, of Tydworth, made a great talke over England, of which Mr.
Joseph Glanvill, Rector of Bath, hath largely writt; to which I refer
the reader. But as he was an ingenious person, so I suspect he was a
little too credulous; for Sir Ralph Bankes and Mr. Anthony Ettrick lay
there together one night out of curiosity, to be satisfied. They did
heare sometimes knockings; and if they said "Devill, knock so many
knocks"; so many knocks would be answered. But Mr. Ettrick sometimes
whispered the words, and there was then no returne: but he should have
spoke in Latin or French for the detection of this.

Another time Sir Christopher Wren lay there. He could see no strange
things, but sometimes he should heare a drumming, as one may drum with
one's hand upon wainscot; but he observed that this drumming was only
when a certain maid-servant was in the next room: the partitions of
the rooms are by borden-brasse, as wee call it. But all these remarked
that the Devill kept no very unseasonable houres: it seldome knock't
after 12 at night, or before 6 in the morning.

[In Hoare's Modern Wiltshire, (Hundred of Amesbury,) p. 92, is a
narrative, quoted from Glanvil, of the nocturnal disturbances in the
house of Mr. Mompesson at North Tidworth, Wilts, in the year 1661,
which excited considerable interest at the time, and led to the
publication of several pamphlets on the subject. The book by Mr.
Glanvil, referred to by Aubrey, is called "A blow at modern
Sadducism; or Philosophical considerations touching the being of
Witches and Witchcraft; with an account of the Demon of Tedworth."
Lond. 1666, 4to. There are other editions in folio and 8vo. in 1667
and 1668. Addison founded his comedy of "The Drummer, or the Haunted
House," on this occurrence. - J. B.]
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About 167- there was a cabal of witches detected at Malmsbury. They
ere examined by Sir James Long of Draycot-Cerne, and by him committed
to Salisbury Gaol. I think there were seven or eight old women hanged.
There were odd things sworne against them, as the strange manner of
the dyeing of H. Denny's horse, and of flying in the aire on a staffe.
These examinations Sir James hath fairly written in a book which he
promised to give to the Royall Societie.
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At Salisbury a phantome appeared to Dr. Turbervill's sister severall
times, and it discovered to her a writing or deed of settlement that
was hid behind the wainscot
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Phantomes. - Though I myselfe never saw any such things, yet I will not
conclude that there is no truth at all in these reports. I believe
that extraordinarily there have been such apparitions; but where one
is true a hundred are figments. There is a lecherie in lyeing and
imposeing on the credulous; and the imagination of fearfull people is
to admiration: e.g. Not long after the cave at Bathford was
discovered (where the opus tessellatum was found), one of Mr. Skreen's
ploughboyes lyeing asleep near to the mouth of the cave, a gentleman
in a boate on the river Avon, which runnes hard by, played on his
flajolet. The boy apprehended the musique to be in the cave, and ran
away in a lamentable fright, and his fearfull phancy made him believe
he saw spirits in the cave. This Mr. Skreen told me, and that the
neighbourhood are so confident of the truth of this, that there is no
undeceiving of them.

PART II.-CHAPTER XIX.

SEATES.

[This chapter comprises only a few scattered notes; of which the
following are specimens. -J. B.]

I TAKE Merton to be the best seated for healthy aire, &c., and sports,
of any place in this county. The soile is gravelly and pebbly.

Ivy Church, adjoining to Clarendon Parke, a grove of elms, and
prospect over the city of Salisbury and the adjacent parts. The right
honorable Mary, Countess of Pembroke, much delighted in this place.

At Longford is a noble house that was built by Lord Georges, who
married a Swedish lady. [See before, p. 102. Sir Thomas Gorges was the
second husband of Helena dowager Marchioness of Northampton, daughter
of Wolfgang Snachenburg, of Sweden: see Hoare's Modern Wiltshire,
Hundred of Cawden, p. 31.-J. B.]

Little-coat, in the parish of Rammysbury, is a very great house. It
was Sir Thomas Dayrell's, who was tryed for his life for burning a
child, being accessory. It is now Sir Jo. Popham's, Lord Chief
Justice. [The murder here alluded to is said to have been committed in
Littlecot-house. The strange and mysterious story connected with it is
recorded in a note to Scott's poem of "Rokeby," and also in the
account of Wiltshire, in the Beauties of England. - J. B.]

Longleat, the dwelling place of the Thynnes, a very fair, neat,
elegant house, in a foul soile. It is true Roman architecture, adorned
on the outside with three orders of pillars, Dorique, Ionique, and
Corinthian.

Tocknam [Tottenham] Parke, a seate of the Duke of Somerset, is a most
parkely ground, and a romancey place. Severall walkes of trees planted
of great length. Here is a new complete pile of good architecture. It
is in the parish of Great Bedwin. [The domain comprises the whole
extent of Savernake Forest. - J. B.]

Wardour Castle, the seate of the Lord Arundell, was kept by Col.
Ludlow: a part of it was blown up by Sir F. Dodington in 1644 or 1645.
Here was a red-deer parke and a fallow-deer parke. [Some of the ruins
of the old castle still remain. The present mansion, belonging to the
Arundell family of Wardour, was erected about seventy years ago.
- J. B.]

Knighton Wood, the Earle of Pembroke's, is an exceeding pleasant
place, both for the variety of high wood and lawnes, as well as deer,
as also the prospect over the New Forest to the sea, and the whole
length of the Isle of Wight It is a desk-like elevation, and faces the
south, and in my conceit it would be the noblest situation for a grand
building that this countrey doth afford.

PART II.-CHAPTER XX.

DRAUGHTS OF THE SEATES AND PROSPECTS.

[I HAVE thought it desirable to print the concluding Chapter of
Aubrey's work verbatim. It is merely a list of remarkable buildings
and views, which he wished to be drawn and engraved, for the
illustration of his work. The names attached to each subject are those
of persons whom he thought likely to incur the expence of the plates,
for publication; and his own name being affixed to two of them shews
that he was willing to contribute. It is impossible not to concur in
his closing observations on this subject, or to avoid an expression
of regret that he was not enabled to publish such a "glorious volume"
of engravings as would have been formed by those here enumerated.
- J. B.]

MY WISH. - AN APPENDIX.
"Multorum manibus grande levatur onus."-Ovid.

ADVICE TO THE PAINTER OR GRAVER.

1. Our Ladies Church at Salisbury; the view without, and in
perspective within: and a mappe of the city. - Bishop Ward. And of Old
Sarum from Harnham hill. - (Sir Hugh Speke gave to the Monasticon
Angliæ the prospect of Salisbury Church, excellently well done by Mr.
Hollar. Quaere, who hath the plate? I doe believe, my Lady Speke.)

2. Prospect of Malmesbury Abbey; and also (3) of the Town, and (4) a
Mappe of the Town. - Mr. Wharton, &c.- Sir James Long. (Take the true
latitude and longitude of Malmesbury.)

5. And also King Athelston's tombe. [See ante, p. 116.]

6. Prospect of the borough of Chippenham. - Duke of Somerset.

7. The Castle at Marleborough, and the prospect of the

8. Town. - D. of Somerset.

9. The Ruines of Lurgershall Castle. - Sir George Brown.

10. Bradstock Priorie. - James, Earle of Abingdon.

11. Wardour Castle. - The Lord Arundel of Wardour.

12. Lacock Abbey. - Sir Jo. Talbot.

13. Priory St. Maries, juxta Kington St. Michael.

14. Ivy Church.

15. Sturton House. - The Lord Sturton.

16. Wilton House, and (17) Garden: sc. from the House and from
Rowlingdon Parke. The garden was heretofore drawn by Mr. Solomon de
Caus, the architect, that was the surveyor of it, and engraved [ante,
p. 86]; but the plates were burnt in the Fire of London. - E. of Pembrok

18. Longleate House and Garden. - I have seen a print of the house: it
was engraved after Mr. Dankertz' painting. Quære, Mr. Thompson, the
printseller, for it? Perhaps he hath the plates. - Lord Weymouth.
(Desire Mr. Beech, the Lord Weymouth's steward, to enquire what is
become of the copper plate that was engraved after Mr. Dankertz'
painting of this house; also enquire of Mr. Rose, my Lord's surveyor,
for it).

19. Longford House. - Lord Colraine. (Engraved by Thacker. Quære, my
Lord Colraine, if he hath the plate or a copie.)

20. The Duke of Beauford's house at Amesbury. - His Grace.

21. Tocknam Parke House. - E. of Alesbury.

22. Funthill House. - Mr. Cottington.

23. Charlton House. - Earle of Barkshire.

24. Lavington House and Garden. - Earle of Abingdon.

25. Mr. Hall's house at Bradford. - J. Hall, Esq.

26. Lidyard-Tregoze House and Scite. - Sir Walter St. John.

27. Sir John Wyld's House at Compton Basset. - Sir Jo. Wyld.

28. Ramesbury House. - Sir Wm. Jones, Attorney-General.

HOUSES OF LESSER NOTE.

29. Edington House. - .... Lewis, Esq.

30. Sir Jo. Evelyn's House at Deane. - Earle of Kingston.

31. Dracot-Cerne House. - Sir James Long, Baronet.

32. Cosham House. - .... Kent, Esq.

33. Lakham House. - .... Montague, Esq.

34. Cadnam House. - Sir George Hungerford.

The Mannour House of Kington St. Michael. - .... Laford.

The Mannour House at .....- Sir Henry Coker.

Gretenham House. - George Ayliff, Esq.

PROSPECTS.

1. From Newnton (Mr. Poole's garden-house) is an admirable prospect.
It takes in Malmesbury, &c. and terminates with the blew hills of
Salisbury plaines. 'Tis the best in Wiltshire.- Madam Estcourt, or
Earle of Kent.

2. From Colern Tower, or Marsfield downe, eastwards; which takes in
Bradstock Priory, several steeples and parkes, and extends to
Salisbury plaine. - D. of Beauford, or Marq. of Worcester.

3. From the garret at Easton Piers, a delicate prospect. - J. Aubrey.

4. From Bradstock Priory, over the rich green tuff-taffety vale to
Cyrencester, Malmesbury, Marsfield, Colern, Mendip-hills; and
Coteswold bounds the north horizon. - Earle of Abingdon.

5. From Bowdon Lodge, a noble prospect of the north part of Wilts. -
Hen. Baynton, Esq.

6. From Spy Park, westward. - Hen. Baynton, Esq.

7. From Westbury Hill to the vale below, northward. - Lord Norris.

8. From the south downe of the farme of Broad Chalke one sees over
Vernditch, Merton, and the New Forest, to the sea; and all the Isle of
Wight, and to Portland. - J. Aubrey. (Memorandum. A quarter of a mile
or lesse from hence is Knighton Ashes, which is a sea marke, which
came into this prospect. The Needles, at the west end of the Isle of
Wight, beare from it south and by east; but try its bearings exactly.)

9. From Knoll Hill, a vast prospect every way. - The Lord Weymouth.

10. From Cricklade Tower, a lovely vernall prospect. - Sir George
Hungerford, or Sir Stephen Fox. (This prospect is over the rich green
country to Marston-Mazy, Down-Ampney, Cyrencester, Minchinghampton,
and Coteswold.)

11. From the leads of Wilton House to Salisbury, Ivy-church, &c. - Sir
R. Sawyer, Attorney-Genl.

12. The prospect that I drew from Warren, above Farleigh-castle Parke;
and take another view in the parke. - Sir Edward Hungerford. (This
prospect of Farleigh is in my book A, at the end; with Mr. Anthony
Wood.)

13. The prospect of Malmesbury from the hill above Cowbridge. This I
have drawn.

14. I have drawn the prospect of Salisbury, and so beyond to Old
Sarum, from the lime-kills at Harnham. (Memorandum. Mr. Dankertz did
make a very fine draught of Salisbury. Enquire of Mr. Thompson, the
printseller, who bought his draughts, if he hath it) - Seth Ward, Bishop
of Sarum. (Set down the latitude and longitude of Salisbury.)

15. A draft of the toft of the castle and keep of Castle Comb. - Jo.
Scroop, Esq.

16. A Mappe of Wiltshire, to be donne by Mr. [Brown?] that did
Staffordshire. (Advertisement to the surveyor of Wiltshire, as to the
mappe. - Let him make his two first stations at the south downe at Broad
Chalke, which he may enlarge two miles or more; from whence he may ken
with his bare eye to Portsmouth, all the Isle of Wight, to Portland,
to the towers and chimny's of Shaftesbury, to Knoll-hill, to the
promontory of Roundway-down above the Devises: to St. Anne's hill,
vulgo Tanne hill, to Martinsoll hill, to Amesbury becon-hill, to
Salisbury steeple, &c. When he comes into North Wiltshire his prospect
will not be much shorter. There he will take in Glastenbury-torre
and Gloucestershire, and Cumnor Lodge in Barkshire).

IF these views were well donn, they would make a glorious volume by
itselfe, and like enough it might take well in the world. It were an
inconsiderable expence (charge) to these persons of qualitie, and it
would remaine to posterity, when their families are gonn and their
buildings ruin'd by time or fire, as we have seen that stupendous
fabrick of Paul's Church, not a stone left on a stone, and lives now
onely in Mr. Hollar's Etchings in Sir William Dugdale's History of
Paul's. I am not displeased with this thought as a desideratum, but I
doe never expect to see it donn; so few men have the hearts to doe
publique good, to give 3, 4, or 5li. for a copper plate.

" Thus Poets like to Kings (by trust deceiv'd)
Give oftner what is heard of than receiv'd."

SIR WILLIAM DAVENANT to the Lady Olivia Porter;
"A New Yeares Gift."
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(There are noble prospects in Gloucestershire, but that concernes not
me. The city of Gloucester is one of the best views of any city in
England; so many stately towers and steeples cutting the horizon. From
Broadway-downe one beholds the vale of Evesham, and so to Malvern
hills, to Staffordshire, Monmouthshire, Warwickshire, the cities of
Gloucester and Worcester, and also Tukesbury, the city of Coventry,
and, I thinke, of Lichfield. From Kimsbury, a camp, is a very pleasant
prospect to Gloucester over the vale. From Dundery is a noble prospect
of the city of Bristow and St. Vincent's Rocks, &c., quod NB.)

FINIS.

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