Books: The Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson, LL.D.

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I had a most elegant room; but there was a fire in it which blazed;
and the sea, to which my windows looked, roared; and the pillows were
made of the feathers of some sea-fowl, which had to me a disgreeable
smell: so that, by all these causes, I was kept awake a good while. I
saw, in imagination, Lord Errol's father, Lord Kilmarnock (who was
beheaded on Tower Hill in 1746), and I was somewhat dreary. But the
thought did not last long, and I fell asleep.

Wednesday, 25th August

We got up between seven and eight, and found Mr Boyd in the
dining-room, with tea and coffee before him, to give us breakfast. We
were in an admirable humour. Lady Errol had given each of us a copy of
an ode by Beattie, on the birth of her son, Lord Hay. Mr Boyd asked Dr
Johnson, how he liked it. Dr Johnson, who did not admire it, got off
very well, by taking it out, and reading the second and third stanzes
of it with much melody. This, without his saying a word, pleased Mr
Boyd. He observed, however, to Dr Johnson, that the expression as to
the family of Errol,

A thousand years have seen it shine compared with what went before,

was an anticlimax, and that it would have been better

Ages have seen, etc.

Dr Johnson said, 'So great a number as a thousand is better. Dolus
latet in universalibus. Ages might be only two ages.' He talked of the
advantage of keeping up the connections of relationship, which produce
much kindness. 'Every man,' said he, 'who comes into the world, has
need of friends. If he has to get them for himself, half his life is
spent, before his merit is known. Relations are a man's ready friends
who support him. When a man is in real distress, he flies into the
arms of his relations. An old lawyer, who had much experience in
making wills, told me, that after people had deliberated long, and
thought of many for their executors, they settled at last by fixing on
their relations. This shews the universality of the principle.'

I regretted the decay of respect for men of family, and that a Nabob
now would carry an election from them. JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, the Nabob
will carry it by means of his wealth, in a country where money is
highly valued, as it must be where nothing can be had without money;
but, if it comes to personal preference, the man of family will always
carry it. There is generally a scoundrelism about a low man.' Mr Boyd
said, that was a good ism.

I said, I believed mankind were happier in the ancient feudal state of
subordination, than they are in the modern state of independency.
JOHNSON. To be sure, the CHIEF was: but we must think of the number of
individuals. That THEY were less happy, seems plain; for that state
from which all escape as soon as they can, and to which none return
after they have left it, must be less happy; and this is the case with
the state of dependance on a chief or great man.'

I mentioned the happiness of the French in their subordination, by the
reciprocal benevolence and attachment between the great and those in
lower rank. Mr Boyd gave us an instance of their gentlemanly spirit.
An old Chevalier de Malthe, of ancient noblesse, but in low
circumstances, was in a coffee-house at Paris, where was Julien, the
great manufacturer at the Gobelins, of the fine tapestry, so much
distinguished both for the figures and the colours. The chevalier's
carriage was very old. Says Julien, with a plebeian insolence, 'I
think, sir, you had better have your carriage new painted.' The
chevalier looked at him with indignant contempt, and answered, 'Well,
sir. you may take it home and DYE it!' All the coffee-house rejoiced
at Julien's confusion.

We set out about nine. Dr Johnson was curious to see one of those
structures which northern antiquarians call a Druid's temple. I had a
recollection of one at Strichen; which I had seen fifteen years ago:
so we went four miles out of our road, after passing Old Deer, and
went thither. Mr Fraser, the proprietor, was at home, and shewed it to
us. But I had augmented it in my mind; for all that remains is two
stones set up on end, with a long one laid upon them, as was usual and
one stone at a little distance from them. That stone was the capital
one of the circle which surrounded what now remains. Mr Fraser was
very hospitable. [Footnote: He is the worthy son of a worthy father,
the late Lord Strichen, one of our judges, to whose kind notice I was
much obliged. Lord Strichen was a man not only honest, but highly
generous: for after his succession to the family estate, he paid a
large sum of debts contracted by his predecessor, which he was not
under any obligation to pay. Let me here, for the credit of Ayrshire,
my own county, record a noble instance of liberal honesty in William
Hutchison, drover, in Lanehead, Kyle, who formerly obtained a full
discharge from his creditors upon a composition of his debts: but upon
being restored to good circumstances, invited his creditors last
winter to a dinner, without telling the reason, and paid them their
full sums, principal and interest. They presented him with a piece of
plate, with an inscription to commemorate this extraordinary instance
of true worth; which should make some people in Scotland blush, while,
though mean themselves, they strut about under the protection of great
alliance conscious of the wretchedness of numbers who have lost by
them, to whom they never think of making reparation, but indulge
themselves and their families in most unsuitable expence.] There was a
fair at Strichen; and he had several of his neighbours from it at
dinner. One of them, Dr Fraser, who had been in the army, remembered
to have seen Dr Johnson at a lecture on experimental philosophy, at
Lichfield. The doctor recollected being at the lecture; and he was
surprised to find here somebody who knew him.

Mr Fraser sent a servant to conduct us by a short passage into the
high-road. I observed to Dr Johnson, that I had a most disagreeable
notion of the life of country gentlemen; that I left Mr Fraser just
now, as one leaves a prisoner in a jail. Dr Johnson said, that I was
right in thinking them unhappy; for that they had not enough to keep
their minds in motion.

I started a thought this afternoon which amused us a great part of the
way. 'If,' said I, 'our club should come and set up in St Andrews, as a
college, to teach all that each of us can, in the several departments
of learning and taste, we should rebuild the city: we should draw a
wonderful concourse of students.' Dr Johnson entered fully into the
spirit of this project. We immediately fell to distributing the
offices. I was to teach civil and Scotch law; Burke, politicks and
eloquence; Garrick, the art of publick speaking; Langton was to be our
Grecian, Colman our Latin professor; Nugent to teach physick; Lord
Charlemont, modern history; Beauclerk, natural philosophy; Vesey,
Irish antiquities, or Celtick learning;[Footnote: Since the first
edition, it has been suggested by one of the clubs, who knew Mr Vesey
better than Dr Johnson and I, that we did not assign him a proper
place; for he was quite unskilled in Irish antiquities and Celtick
learning, but might with propriety have been made professor of
architecture, which he understood well, and has left a very good
specimen of his knowledge and taste in that art, by an elegant house
built on a plan of his own formation, at Lucan, a few miles from
Dublin.] Jones, Oriental learning; Goldsmith, poetry and ancient
history; Chamier, commercial politicks; Reynolds, painting, and the
arts which have beauty for their object; Chambers, the law of England.
Dr Johnson at first said. 'I'll trust theology to nobody but myself.'
But, upon due consideration, that Percy is a clergyman, it was agreed
that Percy should teach practical divinity and British antiquities; Dr
Johnson himself, logick, metaphysicks and scholastick divinity. In
this manner did we amuse ourselves, each suggesting, and each varying
or adding, till the whole was adjusted. Dr Johnson said, we only
wanted a mathematician since Dyer died, who was a very good one; but
as to every thing else, we should have a very capital university,
[Footnote: Our club, originally at the Turk's Head, Gerrard Street,
then at Prince's, Sackville Street, now at Baxter's Dover Street,
which at Mr Garrick's funeral acquired a name for the first time, and
was called The Literary Club, was instituted in 1764, and now consists
of thirty-five members. It has, since 1773, been greatly augmented;
and though Dr Johnson with justice observed, that, by losing
Goldsmith, Garrick, Nugent, Chamier, Beauclerk, we had lost what would
make an eminent club, yet when I mention, as an accession, Mr Fox, Dr
George Fordyce, Sir Charles Bunbury, Lord Offory, Mr Gibbon, Dr Adam
Smith, Mr R. B. Sheridan, the Bishops of Kilaloe and St Asaph, Dean
Marlay, Mr Steevens, Mr Dunning, Sir Joseph Banks, Dr Scott of the
Commons, Earl Spencer, Mr Windham of Norfolk, Lord Elliot, Mr Malone,
Dr Joseph Warton, the Rev. Thomas Warton, Lord Lucan, Mr Burke junior,
Lord Palmerston, Dr Burney, Sir William Hamilton, and Dr Warren, it
will be acknowledged that we might establish a second university of
high reputation.]

We got at night to Banff. I sent Joseph on to Duff house: but Earl
Fife was not at home, which I regretted much, as we should have had a
very elegant reception from his lordship. We found here but an
indifferent inn. [Footnote: Here, unluckily the windows had no
pullies; and Dr Johnson, who was constantly eager for fresh air, had
much struggling to get one of them kept open. Thus he had a notion
impressed upon him, that this wretched defect was general in Scotland;
in consequence of which he has erroneously enlarged upon it in his
Journey. I regretted that he did not allow me to read over his book
before it was printed. I should have changed very little; but I should
have suggested an alteration in a few places where he has laid himself
open to be attacked. I hope I should have prevailed with him to omit
or soften his assertion, that 'a Scotsman must be a sturdy moralist,
who does not prefer Scotland to truth', for I really think it is not
founded; and it is harshly said.] Dr Johnson wrote a long letter to
Mrs Thrale. I wondered to see him write so much so easily. He verified
his own doctrine that 'a man may always write when he will set himself
DOGGEDLY to it'.

Thursday, 26th August

We got a fresh chaise here, a very good one, and very good horses. We
breakfasted at Cullen. They set down dried haddocks broiled, along
with our tea. I ate one; but Dr Johnson was disgusted by the sight of
them, so they were removed. Cullen has a comfortable appearance,
though but a very small town, and the houses mostly poor buildings.

I called on Mr Robertson, who has the charge of Lord Findlater's
affairs, and was formerly Lord Monboddo's clerk, was three times in
France with him, and translated Condamine's Account of the Savage
Girl, to which his lordship wrote a preface, containing several
remarks of his own. Robertson said, he did not believe so much as his
lordship did; that it was plain to him, the girl confounded what she
imagined with what she remembered: that, besides, she perceived
Condamine and Lord Monboddo forming theories, and she adapted her
story to them.

Dr Johnson said, 'It is a pity to see Lord Monboddo publish such
notions as he has done; a man of sense, and of so much elegant
learning. There would be little in a fool doing it; we should only
laugh; but when a wise man does it, we are sorry. Other people have
strange notions; but they conceal them. If they have tails, they hide
them; but Monboddo is as jealous of his tail as a squirrel.' I shall
here put down some more remarks of Dr Johnson's on Lord Monboddo,
which were not made exactly at this time, but come in well from
connection. He said, he did not approve of a judge's calling himself
FARMER Burnett, [Footnote: It is the custom in Scotland for the judges
of the Court of Session to have the title of LORDS, from their
estates: thus Mr Burnett is Lord MONBODDO, as Mr Home was Lord KAMES.
There is something a little aukward in this; for they are denominated
in deeds by their NAMES, with the addition of one of the Senators of
the College of Justice'; and subscribe their Christian and surname, as
JAMES BURNETT, HENRY HOME, even in judicial acts.] and going about
with a little round hat. He laughed heartily at his lordship's saying
he was an ENTHUSIASTICAL farmer; 'for,' said he, 'what can he do in
farming by his ENTHUSIASM?' Here, however, I think Dr Johnson
mistaken. He who wishes to be successful, or happy, ought to be
enthusiastical, that is to say, very keen in all the occupations or
diversions of life. An ordinary gentleman-farmer will be satisfied
with looking at his fields once or twice a day: an enthusiastical
farmer will be constantly employed on them; will have his mind
earnestly engaged; will talk perpetually of them. But Dr Johnson has
much of the nil admirari in smaller concerns. That survey of life
which gave birth to his Vanity of Human Wishes early sobered his mind.
Besides, so great a mind as his cannot be moved by inferior objects:
an elephant does not run and skip like lesser animals.

Mr Robertson sent a servant with us, to shew us through Lord
Findlater's wood, by which our way was shortened, and we saw some part
of his domain, which is indeed admirably laid out. Dr Johnson did not
choose to walk through it. He always said, that he was not come to
Scotland to see fine places, of which there were enough in England;
but wild objects--mountains, waterfalls, peculiar manners; in short,
things which he had not seen before. I have a notion that he at no
time has had much taste for rural beauties. I have myself very little.

Dr Johnson said, there was nothing more contemptible than a country
gentleman living beyond his income, and every year growing poorer and
poorer. He spoke strongly of the influence which a man has by being
rich. 'A man,' said he, 'who keeps his money, has in reality more use
from it, than he can have by spending it.' I observed that this looked
very like a paradox; but he explained it thus: 'If it were certain
that a man would keep his money locked up for ever, to be sure he
would have no influence; but, as so many want money, and he has the
power of giving it, and they know not but by gaining his favour they
may obtain it, the rich man will always have the greatest influence.
He again who lavishes his money, is laughed at as foolish, and in a
great degree with justice, considering how much is spent from vanity.
Even those who partake of a man's hospitality, have but a transient
kindness for him. If he has not the command of money, people know he
cannot help them, if he would; whereas the rich man always can, if he
will, and for the chance of that, will have much weight.' BOSWELL.
'But philosophers and satirists have all treated a miser as
contemptible.' JOHNSON. 'He is so philosophically; but not in the
practice of life.' BOSWELL. 'Let me see now--I do not know the
instances of misers in England, so as to examine into their
influence.' JOHNSON. 'We have had few misers in England.' BOSWELL.
'There was Lowther." JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, Lowther, by keeping his
money, had the command of the county, which the family has now lost,
by spending it. [Footnote: I do not know what was at this time the
state of the parliamentary interest of the ancient family of Lowther;
a family before the Conquest: but all the nation knows it to be very
extensive at present. A due mixture of severity and kindness, oeconomy
and munificence, characterizes its present Representative.] I take it,
he lent a great deal; and that is the way to have influence, and yet
preserve one's wealth. A man may lend his money upon very good
security, and yet have his debtor much under his power.' BOSWELL. 'No
doubt, sir. He can always distress him for the money; as no man
borrows, who is able to pay on demand quite conveniently.'

We dined at Elgin, and saw the noble ruins of the cathedral. Though it
rained much, Dr Johnson examined them with a most patient attention.
He could not here feel any abhorrence at the Scottish reformers, for
he had been told by Lord Hailes, that it was destroyed before the
Reformation, by the Lord of Badenoch, [Footnote: NOTE, by Lord Hailes:
'The cathedral of Elgin was burnt by the Lord of Badenoch, because the
Bishop of Moray had pronounced an award not to his liking. The
indemnification that the see obtained, was that the Lord of Badenoch
stood for three days bare footed at the great gate of the cathedral.
The story is in the Chartulary of Elgin.'] who had a quarrel with the
bishop. The bishop's house, and those of the other clergy, which are
still pretty entire, do not seem to have been proportioned to the
magnificence of the cathedral, which has been of great extent, and had
very fine carved work. The ground within the walls of the cathedral is
employed as a burying-place. The family of Gordon have their vault
here; but it has nothing grand.

We passed Gordon Castle [Footnote: I am not sure whether the duke was
at home. But, not having the honour of being much known to his grace,
I could not have presumed to enter his castle, though to introduce
even so celebrated a stranger. We were at any rate in a hurry to get
forward to the wildness which we came to see. Perhaps, if this noble
family had still preserved that sequestered magnificence which they
maintained when Catholicks, corresponding with the Grand Duke of
Tuscany, we might have been induced to have procured proper letters of
introduction, and devoted some time to the contemplation of venerable
superstitious state.] this forenoon, which has a princely appearance.
Fochabers, the neighbouring village, is a poor place, many of the
houses being ruinous; but it is remarkable, they have in general
orchards well stored with apple-trees. Elgin has what in England are
called piazzas, that run in many places on each side of the street. It
must have been a much better place formerly. Probably it had piazzas
all along the town, as I have seen at Bologna. I approved much of such
structures in a town, on account of their conveniency in wet weather.
Dr Johnson disapproved of them, 'because,' said he, 'it makes the
under story of a house very dark, which greatly over-balances the
conveniency, when it is considered how small a part of the year it
rains; how few are usually in the street at such times; that many who
are might as well be at home; and the little that people suffer,
supposing them to be as much wet as they commonly are in walking a
street'.

We fared but ill at our inn here; and Dr Johnson said, this was the
first time he had seen a dinner in Scotland that he could not eat.

In the afternoon, we drove over the very heath where Macbeth met the
witches, according to tradition. Dr Johnson again solemnly repeated

'"How far is't called to Fores? What are these,
So wither'd, and so wild in their attire
That look not like the inhabitants o' the earth.
And yet are on't "'

He repeated a good deal more of Macbeth. His recitation was grand and
affecting, and, as Sir Joshua Reynolds has observed to me, had no more
tone than it should have: it was the better for it. He then parodied
the 'All-hail' of the witches to Macbeth, addressing himself to me. I
had purchased some land called Dalblair; and, as in Scotland it is
customary to distinguish landed men by the name of their estates, I
had thus two titles, Dalblair and Young Auchinleck. So my friend, in
imitation of

All hail Macbeth! hail to thee, Thane of Cawdor!

condescended to amuse himself with uttering

All hail Dalblair! hail to thee, Laird of Auchinleck!

We got to Fores at night, and found an admirable inn, in which Dr
Johnson was pleased to meet with a landlord who styled himself
'Wine-Cooper, from London'.

Friday, 27th August

It was dark when we came to Fores last night; so we did not see what
is called King Duncan's monument. I shall now mark some gleanings of
Dr Johnson's conversation. I spoke of Leonidas, and said there were
some good passages in it. JOHNSON. 'Why, you must SEEK for them.' He
said, Paul Whitehead's Manners was a poor performance. Speaking of
Derrick, he told me he had a kindness for him, and had often said,
that if his letters had been written by one of a more established
name, they would have been thought very pretty letters.

This morning I introduced the subject of the origin of evil. JOHNSON.
'Moral evil is occasioned by free will, which implies choice between
good and evil. With all the evil that there is, there is no man but
would rather be a free agent, than a mere machine without the evil;
and what is best for each individual, must be best for the whole. If a
man would rather be the machine, I cannot argue with him. He is a
different being from me.' BOSWELL. 'A man, as a machine, may have
agreeable sensations; for instance, he may have pleasure in musick.'
JOHNSON, 'No, sir, he can not have pleasure in musick; at least no
power of producing musick; for he who can produce musick may let it
alone: he who can play upon a fiddle may break it: such a man is not a
machine.' This reasoning satisfied me. It is certain, there cannot be
a free agent, unless there is the power of being evil as well as good.
We must take the inherent possibilities of things into consideration,
in our reasonings or conjectures concerning the works of God.

We came to Nairn to breakfast. Though a county town and royal burgh,
it is a miserable place. Over the room where we sat, a girl was
spinning wool with a great wheel, and singing, an Erse song: 'I'll
warrant you,' said Dr Johnson, 'one of the songs of Ossian.' He then
repeated these lines:

'"Verse sweetens toil, however rude the sound.
All at her work the village maiden sings;
Nor, while she turns the giddy wheel around
Revolves the sad vicissitude of things."'

I thought I had heard these lines before. JOHNSON. 'I fancy not, sir;
for they are in a detached poem, the name of which I do not remember,
written by one Giffard, a parson.'

I expected Mr Kenneth M'Aulay, the minister of Calder, who published
the history of St Kilda, a book which Dr Johnson liked, would have met
us here, as I had written to him from Aberdeen. But I received a
letter from him, telling me that he could not leave home, as he was to
administer the sacrament the following Sunday, and earnestly
requesting to see us at his manse. 'We'll go,' said Dr Johnson; which
we accordingly did. Mrs M'Aulay received us, and told us her husband
was in the church distributing tokens. [Footnote: In Scotland, there
is a great deal of preparation before administering the sacrament. The
minister of the parish examines the people as to their fitness, and to
those of whom he approves gives little pieces of tin, stamped with the
name of the parish, as TOKENS, which they must produce before
receiving it. This is a species of priestly power, and sometimes may
be abused. I remember a lawsuit brought by a person against his parish
minister, for refusing him admission to that sacred ordinance.] We
arrived between twelve and one o'clock, and it was near three before
he came to us.

Dr Johnson thanked him for his book, and said 'it was a very pretty
piece of topography'. M'Aulay did not seem much to mind the
compliment. From his conversation, Dr Johnson was persuaded that he
had not written the book which goes under his name. I myself always
suspected so; and I have been told it was written by the learned Dr
John M'Pherson of Sky, from the materials collected by M'Aulay. Dr
Johnson said privately to me, 'There is a combination in it of which
M'Aulay is not capable.' However, he was exceedingly hospitable; and,
as he obligingly promised us a route for our tour through the Western
Isles, we agreed to stay with him all night.

After dinner, we walked to the old castle of Calder (pronounced
Cawder), the Thane of Cawdor's seat. I was sorry that my friend, this
'prosperous gentleman', was not there. The old tower must be of great
antiquity. There is a draw-bridge,--what has been a moat--and an
ancient court. There is a hawthorn-tree, which rises like a wooden
pillar through the rooms of the castle; for, by a strange conceit, the
walls have been built round it. The thickness of the walls, the small
slaunting windows, and a great iron door at the entrance on the second
story as you ascend the stairs, all indicate the rude times in which
this castle was erected. There were here some large venerable trees.

I was afraid of a quarrel between Dr Johnson and Mr M'Aulay, who
talked slightingly of the lower English clergy. The Doctor gave him a
frowning look, and said, 'This is a day of novelties: I have seen old
trees in Scotland, and I have heard the English clergy treated with
disrespect.'

I dreaded that a whole evening at Caldermanse would be heavy; however,
Mr Grant, an intelligent and well-bred minister in the neighbourhood,
was there, and assisted us by his conversation. Dr Johnson, talking of
hereditary occupations in the Highlands, said, 'There is no harm in
such a custom as this; but it is wrong to enforce it, and oblige a man
to be a taylor or a smith, because his father has been one.' This
custom, however, is not peculiar to our Highlands; it is well known
that in India a similar practice prevails.

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