Books: The Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson, LL.D.

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Lady Eglintoune, though she was now in her eighty-fifth year, and had
lived in the retirement of the country for almost half a century, was
still a very agreeable woman. She was of the noble house of Kennedy,
and had all the elevation which the consciousness of such birth
inspires. Her figure was majestick, her manners high-bred, her reading
extensive, and her conversation elegant. She had been the admiration
of the gay circles of life, and the patroness of poets. Dr Johnson was
delighted with his reception here. Her principles in Church and state
were congenial with his. She knew all his merit, and had heard much of
him from her son, Earl Alexander, who loved to cultivate the
acquaintance of men of talents, in every department.

All who knew his lordship, will allow that his understanding and
accomplishments were of no ordinary rate. From the gay habits which he
had early acquired, he spent too much of his time with men, and in
pursuits far beneath such a mind as his. He afterwards became sensible
of it, and turned his thoughts to objects of importance; but was cut
off in the prime of his life. I cannot speak, but with emotions of the
most affectionate regret, of one, in whose company many of my early
days were passed, and to whose kindness I was much indebted.

Often must I have occasion to upbraid myself, that soon after our
return to the main land, I allowed indolence to prevail over me so
much, as to shrink from the labour of continuing my Journal with the
same minuteness as before; sheltering myself in the thought, that we
had done with the Hebrides; and not considering, that Dr Johnson's
Memorabilia were likely to be more valuable when we were restored to a
more polished society. Much has thus been irrecoverably lost.

In the course of our conversation this day, it came out, that Lady
Eglintoune was married the year before Dr Johnson was born; upon which
she graciously said to him, that she might have been his mother; and
that she now adopted him; and when we were going away, she embraced
him, saying, 'My dear son, farewell!' My friend was much pleased with
this day's entertainment, and owned that I had done well to force him
out.

Tuesday, 2d November

We were now in a country not only 'of saddles and bridles', but of
post-chaises; and having ordered one from Kilmarnock, we got to
Auchinleck before dinner.

My father was not quite a year and a half older than Dr Johnson; but
his conscientious discharge of his laborious duty as a judge in
Scotland, where the law proceedings are almost all in writing, a
severe complaint which ended in his death, and the loss of my mother,
a woman of almost unexampled piety and goodness, had before this time
in some degree affected his spirits, and rendered him less disposed to
exert his faculties: for he had originally a very strong mind, and
cheerful temper. He assured me, he never had felt one moment of what
is called low spirits, or uneasiness, without a real cause. He had a
great many good stories, which he told uncommonly well, and he was
remarkable for 'humour, incolumi gravitate', as Lord Monboddo used to
characterize it. His age, his office, and his character, had long
given him an acknowledged claim to great attention, in whatever
company he was; and he could ill brook any diminution of it. He was as
sanguine a Whig and Presbyterian, as Dr Johnson was a Tory and Church
of England man: and as he had not much leisure to be informed of Dr
Johnson's great merits by reading his works, he had a partial and
unfavourable notion of him, founded on his supposed political tenets;
which were so discordant to his own, that, instead of speaking of him
with respect to which he was entitled, he used to call him 'a JACOBITE
FELLOW'. Knowing all this, I should not have ventured to bring them
together, had not my father, out of kindness to me, desired me to
invite Dr Johnson his house.

I was very anxious that all should be well; and begged of my friend to
avoid three topicks, as to which they differed very widely; Whiggism,
Presbyterianism, and--Sir John Pringle. He said courteously, 'I shall
certainly not talk on subjects which I am told are disagreeable to a
gentleman under whose roof I am; especially, I shall not do so to YOUR
FATHER.'

Our first day went off very smoothly. It rained, and we could not get
out; but my father shewed Dr Johnson his library, which, in curious
editions of the Greek and Roman classicks, is, I suppose, not excelled
by any private collection in Great Britain. My father had studied at
Leyden, and been very intimate with the Gronovii, and other learned
men there. He was a sound scholar, and, in particular, had collated
manuscripts and different editions of Anacreon, and others of the
Greek lyrick poets, with great care; so that my friend and he had much
matter for conversation, without touching on the fatal topicks of
difference.

Dr Johnson found here Baxter's Anacreon, which he told me he had long
inquired for in vain, and began to suspect there was no such book.
Baxter was the keen antagonist of Barnes. His life is in the
Biographia Britannica. My father has written many notes on this book,
and Dr Johnson and I talked of having it reprinted.

Wednesday, 3d November

It rained all day, and gave Dr Johnson an impression of that
incommodiousness of climate in the west, of which he has taken notice
in his Journey; but, being well accommodated, and furnished with
variety of books, he was not dissatisfied.

Some gentlemen of the neighbourhood came to visit my father; but there
was little conversation. One of them asked Dr Johnson how he liked the
Highlands. The question seemed to irritate him, for he answered, 'How,
sir, can you ask me what obliges me to speak unfavourably of a country
where I have been hospitably entertained? Who CAN like the Highlands?
--I like the inhabitants very well.' The gentleman asked no more
questions.

Let me now make up for the present neglect, by again gleaning from the
past. At Lord Monboddo's, after the conversation upon the decrease of
learning in England, his Lordship mentioned Hermes by Mr Harris of
Salisbury, as the work of a living authour, for whom he had a great
respect. Dr Johnson said nothing at the time; but when we were in our
post-chaise, told me, he thought Harris 'a coxcomb'. This he said of
him, not as a man, but as an authour; and I give his opinions of men
and books, faithfully, whether they agree with my own, or not. I do
admit, that there always appeared to me something of affectation in Mr
Harris's manner of writing; something of a habit of clothing plain
thoughts in analytick and categorical formality. But all his writings
are imbued with learning; and all breathe that philanthropy and
amiable disposition, which distinguished him as a man. [Footnote: This
gentleman, though devoted to the study of grammar and dialecticks, was
not so absorbed in it as to be without a sense of pleasantry, or to be
offended at his favourite topicks being treated lightly. I one day met
him in the street, as I was hastening to the House of Lords, and told
him, I was sorry I could not stop, being rather too late to attend an
appeal of the Duke of Hamilton against Douglas. 'I thought,' said he,
'their contest had been over long ago.' I answered, 'The contest
concerning Douglas's filiation was over long ago; but the contest now
is, who shall have the estate.' Then, assuming the air of 'an antient
sage philosopher', I proceeded thus: 'Were I to PREDICATE concerning
him, I should say, the contest formerly was, What IS he? The contest
now is, What HAS he?' 'Right,' replied Mr Harris, smiling, 'you have
done with QUALITY, and have got into QUANTITY.']

At another time, during our tour, he drew the character of a rapacious
Highland chief with the strength of Theophrastus or la Bruyere;
concluding with these words: 'Sir, he has no more the soul of a chief,
than an attorney who has twenty houses in a street, and considers how
much he can make by them.'

He this day, when we were by ourselves, observed, how common it was
for people to talk from books; to retail the sentiments of others, and
not their own; in short, to converse without any originality of
thinking. He was pleased to say, 'You and I do not talk from books.'

Thursday, 4th November

I was glad to have at length a very fine day, on which I could shew Dr
Johnson the place of my family, which he has honoured with so much
attention in his Journey. He is, however, mistaken in thinking that
the Celtick name, Auchinleck, has no relation to the natural
appearance of it. I believe every Celtick name of a place will be
found very descriptive. Auchinleck does not signify a 'stony field',
as he has said, but a 'field of flag stones'; and this place has a
number of rocks, which abound in strata of that kind. The 'sullen
dignity of the old castle', as he has forcibly expressed it, delighted
him exceedingly. On one side of the rock on which its ruins stand,
runs the river Lugar, which is here of considerable breadth, and is
bordered by other high rocks, shaded with wood. On the other side runs
a brook, skirted in the same manner, but on a smaller scale. I cannot
figure a more romantick scene.

I felt myself elated here, and expatiated to my illustrious mentor on
the antiquity and honourable alliances of my family, and on the merits
of its founder, Thomas Boswell, who was highly favoured by his
sovereign, James IV of Scotland, and fell with him at the battle of
Flodden field; and in the glow of what, I am sensible, will, in a
commercial age, be considered as genealogical enthusiasm, did not omit
to mention what I was sure my friend would not think lightly of, my
relation to the Royal Personage, whose liberality, on his accession to
the throne, had given him comfort and independence. I have, in a
former page, acknowledged my pride of ancient blood, in which I was
encouraged by Dr Johnson: my readers therefore will not be surprised
at my having indulged it on this occasion.

Not far from the old castle is a spot of consecrated earth, on which
may be traced the foundations of an ancient chapel, dedicated to St
Vincent, and where in old times 'was the place of graves' for the
family. It grieves me to think that the remains of sanctity here,
which were considerable, were dragged away, and employed in building a
part of the house of Auchinleck, of the middle age; which was the
family residence, till my father erected that 'elegant modern
mansion', of which Dr Johnson speaks so handsomely. Perhaps this
chapel may one day be restored.

Dr Johnson was pleased, when I shewed him some venerable old trees,
under the shade of which my ancestors had walked. He exhorted me to
plant assiduously, as my father had done to a great extent.

As I wandered with my reverend friend in the groves of Auchinleck, I
told him, that, if I survived him, it was my intention to erect a
monument to him here, among scenes which, in my mind, were all
classical; for in my youth I had appropriated to them many of the
descriptions of the Roman poets. He could not bear to have death
presented to him in any shape; for his constitutional melancholy made
the king of terrours more frightful. He turned off the subject,
saying, 'Sir, I hope to see your grand-children!'

This forenoon he observed some cattle without horns, of which he has
taken notice in his Journey, and seems undecided whether they be of a
particular race. His doubts appear to have had no foundation; for my
respectable neighbour, Mr Fairlie, who, with all his attention to
agriculture, finds time both for the Classicks and his friends,
assures me they are a distinct species, and that, when any of their
calves have horns, a mixture of breed can be traced. In confirmation
of his opinion, he pointed out to me the following passage in Tacitus,
Ne armentis quidem suus honor, aut gloria frontis (De mor. Germ.
Section 5) which he wondered had escaped Dr Johnson.

On the front of the house of Auchinleck is this inscription:

... Quod petis, hic est;
Est Ulubris, animus si te non deficit aequus.

It is characteristick of the founder; but the animus aequus is, alas!
not inheritable, nor the subject of devise. He always talked to me as
if it were in a man's own power to attain it; but Dr Johnson told me
that he owned to him, when they were alone, his persuasion that it was
in a great measure constitutional, or the effect of causes which do
not depend on ourselves, and that Horace boasts too much, when he
says, aequum mi animum ipse parabo.

Friday, 5th November

The Reverend Mr Dun, our parish minister, who had dined with us
yesterday, with some other company, insisted that Dr Johnson and I
should dine with him to-day. This gave me an opportunity to shew my
friend the road to the church, made by my father at a great expence,
for above three miles, on his own estate, through a range of well
enclosed farms, with a row of trees on each side of it. He called it
the Via sacra, and was very fond of it. Dr Johnson, though he held
notions far distant from those of the Presbyterian clergy, yet could
associate on good terms with them. He indeed occasionally attacked
them. One of them discovered a narrowness of information concerning
the dignitaries of the Church of England, among whom may be found men
of the greatest learning, virtue, and piety, and of a truly apostolic
character. He talked before Dr Johnson, of fat bishops and drowsy
deans; and, in short, seemed to believe the illiberal and profane
scoffings of professed satyrists, or vulgar railers. Dr Johnson was so
highly offended, that he said to him, 'Sir, you know no more of our
church than a Hottentot.' I was sorry that he brought this upon
himself.

Saturday, 6th November

I cannot be certain, whether it was on this day, or a former, that Dr
Johnson and my father came in collision. If I recollect right, the
contest began while my father was shewing him his collection of
medals; and Oliver Cromwell's coin unfortunately introduced Charles
the First, and Toryism. They became exceedingly warm, and violent, and
I was very much distressed by being present at such an altercation
between the two men, both of whom I reverenced; yet I durst not
interfere. It would certainly be very unbecoming in me to exhibit my
honoured father, and my respected friend, as intellectual gladiators,
for the entertainment of the publick; and therefore I suppress what
would, I dare say, make an interesting scene in this dramatick sketch
this account of the transit of Johnson over the Caledonian hemisphere.

Yet I think I may, without impropriety, mention one circumstance, as
an instance of my father's address. Dr Johnson challenged him, as he
did us all at Talisker, to point out any theological works of merit
written by Presbyterian ministers in Scotland. My father, whose
studies did not lie much in that way, owned to me afterwards, that he
was somewhat at a loss how to answer, but that luckily he recollected
having read in catalogues the title of Durham On the Galatians; upon
which he boldly said, 'Pray, sir, have you read Mr Durham's excellent
commentary on the Galatians?' 'No, sir,' said Dr Johnson. By this
lucky thought my father kept him at bay, and for some time enjoyed his
triumph; but his antagonist soon made a retort, which I forbear to
mention.

In the course of their altercation, Whiggism and Presbyterianism,
Toryism and Episcopacy, were terribly buffeted. My worthy hereditary
friend, Sir John Pringle, never having been mentioned, happily escaped
without a bruise.

My father's opinion of Dr Johnson may be conjectured from the name he
afterwards gave him, which was Ursa Major. But it is not true, as has
been reported, that it was in consequence of my saying that he was a
CONSTELLATION of genius and literature. It was a sly abrupt expression
to one of his brethren on the bench of the Court of Session, in which
Dr Johnson was then standing; but it was not said in his hearing.

Sunday, 7th November

My father and I went to publick worship in our parish-church, in which
I regretted that Dr Johnson would not join us; for, though we have
there no form of prayer, nor magnificent solemnity, yet, as God is
worshipped in spirit and in truth, and the same doctrines preached as
in the Church of England, my friend would certainly have shewn more
liberality, had he attended. I doubt not, however, but he employed his
time in private to very good purpose. His uniform and fervent piety
was manifested on many occasions during our tour, which I have not
mentioned. His reason for not joining in Presbyterian worship has been
recorded in a former page.

Monday, 8th November

Notwithstanding the altercation that had passed, my father who had the
dignified courtesy of an old Baron, was very civil to Dr Johnson, and
politely attended him to the post-chaise, which was to convey us to
Edinburgh.

Thus they parted. They are now in another, and a higher, state of
existence: and as they were both worthy Christian men, I trust they
have met in happiness. But I must observe, in justice to my friend's
political principles, and my own, that they have met in a place where
there is no room for Whiggism.

We came at night to a good inn at Hamilton. I recollect no more.

Tuesday, 9th November

I wished to have shewn Dr Johnson the Duke of Hamilton's house,
commonly called the Palace of Hamilton, which is close by the town. It
is an object which, having been pointed out to me as a splendid
edifice, from my earliest years, in travelling between Auchinleck and
Edinburgh, has still great grandeur in my imagination. My friend
consented to stop, and view the outside of it, but could not be
persuaded to go into it.

We arrived this night at Edinburgh, after an absence of eighty-three
days. For five weeks together, of the tempestuous season, there had
been no account received of us. I cannot express how happy I was on
finding myself again at home.

Wednesday, 10th November

Old Mr Drummond, the bookseller, came to breakfast. Dr Johnson and he
had not met for ten years. There was respect on his side, and kindness
on Dr Johnson's. Soon afterwards Lord Elibank came in, and was much
pleased at seeing Dr Johnson in Scotland. His lordship said, 'hardly
any thing seemed to him more improbable'. Dr Johnson had a very high
opinion of him. Speaking of him to me, he characterized him thus:
'Lord Elibank has read a great deal. It is true, I can find in books
all that he has read; but he has a great deal of what is in books,
proved by the test of real life.' Indeed, there have been few men
whose conversation discovered more knowledge enlivened by fancy. He
published several small pieces of distinguished merit; and has left
some in manuscript, in particular an account of the expedition against
Carthagena, in which he served as an officer in the army. His writings
deserve to be collected. He was the early patron of Dr Robertson, the
historian, and Mr Home, the tragick poet; who, when they we were
ministers of country parishes, lived near his seat. He told me, 'I saw
these lads had talents, and they were much with me.' I hope they will
pay a grateful tribute to his memory.

The morning was chiefly taken up by Dr Johnson's giving him an account
of our tour. The subject of difference in political principles was
introduced. JOHNSON. 'It is much increased by opposition. There was a
violent Whig, with whom I used to contend with great eagerness. After
his death I felt my Toryism much abated.' I suppose he meant Mr
Walmsley of Lichfield, whose character he has drawn so well in his
life of Edmund Smith.

Mr Nairne came in, and he and I accompanied Dr Johnson to Edinburgh
castle, which he owned was 'a great place'. But I must mention, as a
striking instance of that spirit of contradiction to which he had a
strong propensity, when Lord Elibank was some days after talking of it
with the natural elation of a Scotchman, or of any man who is proud of
a stately fortress in his own country, Dr Johnson affected to despise
it, observing that, 'it would make a good PRISON in ENGLAND'.

Lest it should be supposed that I have suppressed one of his sallies
against my country, it may not be improper here to correct a mistaken
account that has been circulated, as to his conversation this day. It
has been said, that being desired to attend to the noble prospect from
the Castle Hill, he replied, 'Sir, the noblest prospect that a
Scotchman ever sees, is the high road that leads him to London.' This
lively sarcasm was thrown out at a tavern in London, in my presence,
many years before.

We had with us to day at dinner, at my house, the Lady Dowager
Colvill, and Lady Anne Erskine, sisters of the Earl of Kelly; the
Honourable Archibald Erskine, who has now succeeded to that title;
Lord Elibank; the Reverend Dr Blair; Mr Tytler, the acute vindicator
of Mary Queen of Scots, and some other friends.

Fingal being talked of, Dr Johnson, who used to boast that he had,
from the first, resisted both Ossian and the giants of Patagonia,
averred his positive disbelief of its authenticity. Lord Elibank said,
'I am sure it is not McPherson's. Mr Johnson, I keep company a great
deal with you; it is known I do. I may borrow from you better things
than I can say myself, and give them as my own; but, if I should,
every body will know whose they are.' The Doctor was not softened by
this compliment. He denied merit to Fingal, supposing it to be the
production of a man who has had the advantages that the present age
affords; and said, 'nothing is more easy than to write enough in that
style if once you begin'. [Footnote: I desire not to be understood as
agreeing ENTIRELY with the opinions of Dr Johnson, which I relate
without any remark. The many imitations, however, of Fingal, that have
been published, confirm this observation in a considerable degree.]
One gentleman in company expressing his opinion 'that Fingal was
certainly genuine, for that he had heard a great part of it repeated
in the original', Dr Johnson indignantly asked him, whether he
understood the original; to which an answer being given in the
negative, 'Why then,' said Dr Johnson, 'we see to what THIS testimony
comes: thus it is.'

I mentioned this as a remarkable proof how liable the mind of man is
to credulity, when not guarded by such strict examination as that
which Dr Johnson habitually practised. The talents and integrity of
the gentleman who made the remark, are unquestionable; yet, had not Dr
Johnson made him advert to the consideration, that he who does not
understand a language, cannot know that something which is recited to
him is in that language, he might have believed, and reported to this
hour, that he had 'heard a great part of Fingal repeated in the
original'.

For the satisfaction of those on the north of the Tweed, who may think
Dr Johnson's account of Caledonian credulity and inaccuracy too
strong, it is but fair to add, that he admitted the same kind of ready
belief might be found in his own country. 'He would undertake,' he
said, 'to write an epick poem on the story of Robin Hood, and half
England, to whom the names and places he should mention in it are
familiar, would believe and declare they had heard it from their
earliest years.'

One of his objections to the authenticity of Fingal, during the
conversation at Ulinish, is omitted in my Journal, but I perfectly
recollect it. 'Why is not the original deposited in some publick
library, instead of exhibiting attestations of its existence? Suppose
there were a question in a court of justice, whether a man be dead or
alive. You aver he is alive, and you bring fifty witnesses to swear
it: I answer, "Why do you not produce the man "' This is an argument
founded on one of the first principles of the LAW OF EVIDENCE, which
Gilbert would have held to be irrefragable.

I do not think it incumbent on me to give any precise decided opinion
upon this question, as to which I believe more than some, and less
than others. The subject appears to have now become very uninteresting
to the publick. That Fingal is not from beginning to end a translation
from the Gallick, but that some passages have been supplied by the
editor to connect the whole, I have heard admitted by very warm
advocates for its authenticity. If this be the case, why are not these
distinctly ascertained? Antiquaries, and admirers of the work, may
complain, that they are in a situation similar to that of the unhappy
gentleman whose wife informed him, on her death-bed, that one of their
reputed children was not his; and, when he eagerly begged her to
declare which of them it was, she answered, 'THAT you shall never
know', and expired, leaving him in irremediable doubt as to them all.

I beg leave to say something upon second sight, of which I have
related two instances, as they impressed my mind at the time. I own, I
returned from the Hebrides with a considerable degree of faith in the
many stories of that kind which I heard with a too easy acquiescence,
without any clear examination of the evidence: but, since that time,
my belief in those stories has been much weakened, by reflecting on
the careless inaccuracy of narrative in common matters, from which we
may certainly conclude that these may be the same in what is more
extraordinary. It is but just, however, to add, that the belief in
second sight is not peculiar to the Highlands and Isles.

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