Books: The Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson, LL.D.

J >> James Boswell >> The Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson, LL.D.

Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28

After breakfast, Dr Johnson and I, and Joseph, mounted horses, and Col
and the captain walked with us about a short mile across the island.
We paid a visit to the Reverend Mr Hector M'Lean. His parish consists
of the islands of Col and Tyr-yi. He was about seventy-seven years of
age, a decent ecclesiastick, dressed in a full suit of black clothes,
and a black wig. He appeared like a Dutch pastor, or one of the
assembly of divines at Westminster. Dr Johnson observed to me
afterwards, 'that he was a fine old man, and was as well-dressed, and
had as much dignity in his appearance as the dean of a cathedral'. We
were told, that he had a valuable library, though but poor
accomodation for it, being obliged to keep his books in large chests.
It was curious to see him and Dr Johnson together. Neither of them
heard very distinctly; so each of them talked in his own way, and at
the same time. Mr M'Lean said, he had a confutation of Bayle, by
Leibnitz. JOHNSON. 'A confutation of Bayle, sir! What part of Bayle do
you mean? The greatest part of his writings is not confutable: it is
historical and critical.' Mr M'Lean said, 'the irreligious part'; and
proceeded to talk of Leibnitz's controversy with Clarke, calling
Leibnitz a great man. JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, Leibnitz persisted in
affirming that Newton called space sensorium numinis, notwithstanding
he was corrected, and desired to observe that Newton's words were
quasisensorium numinis. No, sir, Leibnitz was as paltry a fellow as I
know. Out of respect to Queen Caroline, who patronized him, Clarke
treated him too well.'

During the time that Dr Johnson was thus going on, the old minister
was standing with his back to the fire, cresting up erect, pulling
down the front of his periwig, and talking what a great man Leibnitz
was. To give an idea of the scene, would require a page with two
columns; but it ought rather to be represented by two good players.
The old gentleman said, Clarke was very wicked, for going so much into
the Arian system. 'I will not say he was wicked,' said Dr Johnson; 'he
might be mistaken.' M'LEAN. 'He was wicked, to shut his eyes against
the Scriptures; and worthy men in England have since confuted him to
all intents and purposes.' JOHNSON. 'I know not WHO has confuted him
to ALL INTENTS AND PURPOSES.' Here again there was a double talking,
each continuing to maintain his own argument, without hearing exactly
what the other said.

I regretted that Dr Johnson did not practice the art of accommodating
himself to different sorts of people. Had he been softer with this
venerable old man, we might have had more conversation; but his
forcible spirit; and impetuosity of manner, may be said to spare
neither sex nor age. I have seen even Mrs Thrale stunned; but I have
often maintained, that it is better he should retain his own manner.
Pliability of address I conceive to be inconsistent with that
majestick power of mind which he possesses, and which produces such
noble effects. A lofty oak will not bend like a supple willow.

He told me afterwards, he liked firmness in an old man, and was
pleased to see Mr M'Lean so orthodox. 'At his age, it is too late for
a man to be asking himself questions as to his belief.'

We rode to the northern part of the island, where we saw the ruins of
a church or chapel. We then proceeded to a place called Grissipol, or
the Rough Pool.

At Grissipol we found a good farm house, belonging to the Laird of
Col, and possessed by Mr M'Sweyn. On the beach here there is a
singular variety of curious stones. I picked up one very like a small
cucumber. By the by, Dr Johnson told me, that Gay's line in the
Beggar's Opera, 'As men should serve a cucumber,' &c. has no waggish
meaning, with reference to men flinging away cucumbers as too COOLING,
which some have thought; for it has been a common saying of physicians
in England, that a cucumber should be well sliced, and dressed with
pepper and vinegar, and then thrown out, as good for nothing. Mr
M'Sweyn's predecessors had been in Sky from a very remote period, upon
the estate belonging to M'Leod; probably before M'Leod had it. The
name is certainly Norwegian, from Sueno, King of Norway. The present
Mr M'Sweyn left Sky upon the late M'Leod's raising his rents. He then
got this farm from Col.

He appeared to be near fourscore; but looked as fresh, and was as
strong as a man of fifty. His son Hugh looked older; and, as Dr
Johnson observed, had more the manners of an old man than he. I had
often heard of such instances, but never saw one before. Mrs M'Sweyn
was a decent old gentlewoman. She was dressed in tartan, and could
speak nothing but Erse. She said, she taught Sir James M'Donald Erse,
and would teach me soon. I could now sing a verse of the song Hatyin
foam'eri, made in honour of Allan, the famous Captain of Clanranald,
who fell at Sherrif-muir; whose servant, who lay on the field watching
his master's dead body, being asked next day who that was, answered,
'He was a man yesterday.'

We were entertained here with a primitive heartiness. Whisky was
served round in a shell, according to the ancient Highland custom. Dr
Johnson would not partake of it; but, being desirous to do honour to
the modes 'of other times', drank some water out of the shell.

In the forenoon Dr Johnson said, 'it would require great resignation
to live in one of these islands.' BOSWELL. 'I don't know, sir; I have
felt myself at times in a state of almost mere physical existence,
satisfied to eat, drink, and sleep, and walk about, and enjoy my own
thoughts; and I can figure a continuation of this.' JOHNSON. 'Ay, sir;
but if you were shut up here, your own thoughts would torment you: you
would think of Edinburgh or London, and that you could not be there.'

We set out after dinner for Breacacha, the family seat of the Laird of
Col, accompanied by the young laird, who had now got a horse, and by
the younger Mr M'Sweyn, whose wife had gone thither before us, to
prepare every thing for our reception, the laird and his family being
absent at Aberdeen. It is called Breacacha, or the Spotted Field,
because in summer it is enamelled with clover and daisies, as young
Col told me. We passed by a place where there is a very large stone, I
may call it a ROCK--'a vast weight for Ajax'. The tradition is, that a
giant threw such another stone at his mistress, up to the top of a
hill, at a small distance; and that she in return, threw this mass
down to him. It was all in sport. Malo me petit lasciva puella.

As we advanced, we came to a large extent of plain ground. I had not
seen such a place for a long time. Col and I took a gallop upon it by
way of race. It was very refreshing to me, after having been so long
taking short steps in hilly countries. It was like stretching a man's
legs after being cramped in a short bed. We also passed close by a
large extent of sand-hills, near two miles square. Dr Johnson said,
'he never had the image before. It was horrible, if barrenness and
danger could be so.' I heard him, after we were in the house of
Breacacha, repeating to himself, as he walked about the room,

'"And smother'd in the dusty whirlwind, dies."'

Probably he had been thinking of the whole of the simile in Cato, of
which that is the concluding line; the sandy desart had struck him so
strongly. The sand has of late been blown over a good deal of meadow;
and the people of the island say, that their fathers remembered much
of the space which is now covered with sand, to have been under
tillage. Col's house is situated on a bay called Breacacha Bay. We
found here a neat new-built gentleman's house, better than any we had
been in since we were at Lord Errol's. Dr Johnson relished it much at
first, but soon remarked to me, that 'there was nothing becoming a
chief about it: it was a mere tradesman's box.' He seemed quite at
home, and no longer found any difficulty in using the Highland
address; for as soon as we arrived, he said, with a spirited
familiarity, 'Now, COL, if you could get us a dish of tea,' Dr Johnson
and I had each an excellent bed-chamber. We had a dispute which of us
had the best curtains. His were rather the best, being of linen; but I
insisted that my bed had the best posts, which was undeniable. 'Well,'
said he, 'if you HAVE the best POSTS, we will have you tied to them
and whipped.' I mention this slight circumstance, only to shew how
ready he is, even in mere trifles, to get the better of his
antagonist, by placing him in a ludicrous view. I have known him
sometimes use the same art, when hard pressed in serious disputation.
Goldsmith, I remember, to retaliate for many a severe defeat which he
has suffered from him, applied to him a lively saying in one of
Cibber's comedies, which puts this part of his character in a strong
light. 'There is no arguing with Johnson; for, IF HIS PISTOL MISSES
FIRE, HE KNOCKS YOU DOWN WITH THE BUT-END OF IT.'

Wednesday, 6th October

After a sufficiency of sleep, we assembled at breakfast. We were just
as if in barracks. Every body was master. We went and viewed the old
castle of Col, which is not far from the present house, near the
shore, and founded on a rock. It has never been a large feudal
residence, and has nothing about it that requires a particular
description. Like other old inconvenient buildings of the same age, it
exemplified Gray's picturesque lines,

Huge windows that exclude the light.
And passages that lead to nothing.

It may however be worth mentioning, that on the second story we saw a
vault, which was, and still is, the family prison. There was a woman
put into it by the laird, for theft, within these ten years; and any
offender would be confined there yet; for, from the necessity of the
thing, as the island is remote from any power established by law, the
laird must exercise his jurisdiction to a certain degree.

We were shewn, in a corner of this vault, a hole, into which Col said
greater criminals used to be put. It was now filled up with rubbish of
different kinds. He said, it was of a great depth. 'Ay,' said Dr
Johnson, smiling, 'all such places, that ARE FILLED UP, were of a
great depth.' He is very quick in shewing that he does not give credit
to careless or exaggerated accounts of things. After seeing the
castle, we looked at a small hut near it. It is called Teigh
Franchich, i.e. the Frenchman's House. Col could not tell us the
history of it. A poor man with a wife and children now lived in it. We
went into it, and Dr Johnson gave them some charity. There was but one
bed for all the family, and the hut was very smoky. When he came out,
he said to me, 'Et hoc secundum sententiam philosophorum est esse
beatus.' BOSWELL. 'The philosophers, when they placed happiness in a
cottage, supposed cleanliness and no smoke.' JOHNSON. 'Sir, they did
not think about either.'

We walked a little in the laird's garden, in which endeavours have
been used to rear some trees; but, as soon as they got above the
surrounding wall, they died. Dr Johnson recommended sowing the seeds
of hardy trees, instead of planting.

Col and I rode out this morning, and viewed a part of the island. In
the course of our ride, we saw a turnip-field, which he had hoed with
his own hands. He first introduced this kind of husbandry into the
Western islands. We also looked at an appearance of lead, which seemed
very promising. It has been long known; for I found letters to the
late laird, from Sir John Areskine and Sir Alexander Murray,
respecting it.

After dinner came Mr M'Lean, of Corneck, brother to Isle of Muck, who
is a cadet of the family of Col. He possesses the two ends of Col,
which belong to the Duke of Argyll. Corneck had lately taken a lease
of them at a very advanced rent, rather than let the Campbells get a
footing in the island, one of whom had offered nearly as much as he.
Dr Johnson well observed, that, 'landlords err much when they
calculate merely what their land MAY yield. The rent must be in a
proportionate ratio of what the land may yield, and of the power of
the tenant to make it yield. A tenant cannot make by his land, but
according to the corn and cattle which he has. Suppose you should give
him twice as much land as he has, it does him no good, unless he gets
also more stock. It is clear then, that the Highland landlords, who
let their substantial tenants leave them, are infatuated; for the poor
small tenants cannot give them good rents, from the very nature of
things. They have not the means of raising more from their farms.'
Corneck, Dr Johnson said, was the most distinct man that he had met
with in these isles; he did not shut his eyes, or put his fingers in
his ears, which he seemed to think was a good deal the mode with most
of the people whom we have seen of late.

Thursday, 7th October

Captain M'Lean joined us this morning at breakfast. There came on a
dreadful storm of wind and rain, which continued all day, and rather
increased at night. The wind was directly against our getting to Mull.
We were in a strange state of abstraction from the world: we could
neither hear from our friends, nor write to them. Col had brought
Daille On the Fathers, Lucas On Happiness, and More's Dialogues, from
the Reverend Mr M'Lean's, and Burnet's History of his own Times, from
Captain M'Lean's; and he had of his own some books of farming, and
Gregory's Geometry. Dr Johnson read a good deal of Burnet, and of
Gregory, and I observed he made some geometrical notes in the end of
his pocket-book. I read a little of Young's Six Weeks Tour through the
Southern Counties; and Ovid's Epistles, which I had bought at
Inverness, and which helped to solace many a weary hour.

We were to have gone with Dr Johnson this morning to see the mine; but
were prevented by the storm. While it was raging, he said, 'We may be
glad we are not damnati ad metalla.'

Friday, 8th October

Dr Johnson appeared to day very weary of our present confined
situation. He said, 'I want to be on the main land, and go on with
existence. This is a waste of life.'

I shall here insert, without regard to chronology, some of his
conversation at different times.

'There was a man some time ago, who was well received for two years,
among the gentlemen of Northamptonshire, by calling himself my
brother. At last he grew so impudent as by his influence to get
tenants turned out of their farms. Allen the printer, who is of that
county, came to me, asking, with much appearance of doubtfulness, if I
had a brother; and upon being assured I had none alive, he told me of
the imposition, and immediately wrote to the country, and the fellow
was dismissed. It pleased me to hear that so much was got by using my
name. It is not every name that can carry double; do both for a man's
self and his brother'(laughing). 'I should be glad to see the fellow.
However, I could have done nothing against him. A man can have no
redress for his name being used, or ridiculous stories being told of
him in the news-papers, except he can shew that he has suffered
damage. Some years ago a foolish piece was published, said to be
written "by S. Johnson". Some of my friends wanted me to be very angry
about this. I said, it would be in vain; for the answer would be, S.
Johnson may be Simon Johnson, or Simeon Johnson, or Solomon Johnson;
and even if the full name, Samuel Johnson, had been used, it might be
said; "it is not you; it is a much cleverer fellow."

'Beauclerk and I, and Langton, and Lady Sydney Beauclerk, mother to
our friend, were one day driving in a coach by Cuper's Gardens, which
were then unoccupied. I, in sport, proposed that Beauclerk and
Langton, and myself should take them; and we amused ourselves with
scheming how we should all do our parts. Lady Sydney grew angry, and
said, "an old man should not put such things in young people's heads".
She had no notion of a joke, sir; had come late into life, and had a
mighty unpliable understanding.

'Carte's Life of the Duke of Ormond is considered as a book of
authority; but it is ill-written. The matter is diffused in too many
words; there is no animation, no compression, no vigour. Two good
volumes in duodecimo might be made out of the two in folio.'

Talking of our confinement here, I observed, that our discontent and
impatience could not be considered as very unreasonable; for that we
were just in the state of which Seneca complains so grievously, while
in exile in Corsica. 'Yes,' said Dr Johnson, 'and he was not farther
from home than we are.' The truth is, he was much nearer.

There was a good deal of rain to-day, and the wind was still contrary.
Corneck attended me, while I amused myself in examining a collection
of papers belonging to the family of Col. The first laird was a
younger son of the chieftain M'Lean, and got the middle part of Col
for his patrimony. Dr Johnson having given a very particular account
of the connection between this family and a branch of the family of
Camerons, called M'Lonich, I shall only insert the following document
(which I found in Col's cabinet), as a proof of its continuance, even
to a late period:

To the Laird of Col.

Dear Sir,

The long-standing tract of firm affectionate friendship 'twixt your
worthy predecessors and ours affords us such assurance, as that we may
have full relyance on your favour and undoubted friendship, in
recommending the bearer, Ewen Cameron, our cousin, son to the deceast
Dugall M'Connill of Innermaillie, sometime in Glenpean, to your favour
and conduct, who is a man of undoubted honesty and discretion, only
that he has the misfortune of being alledged to have been accessory to
the killing of one of M'Martin's family about fourteen years ago, upon
which alledgeance the M'Martins are now so sanguine on revenging, that
they are fully resolved for the deprivation of his life; to the
preventing of which you are relyed on by us, as the only fit
instrument and a most capable person. Therefore your favour and
protection is expected and intreated, during his good behaviour; and
failing of which behaviour, you'll please to use him as a most
insignificant person deserves.

Sir, he had, upon the alledgeance foresaid, been transported, at
Lochiel's desire, to France, to gratify the M'Martins, and upon his
return home, about five years ago, married: But now he is so much
theatened by the M'Martins, that he is not secure enough to stay where
he is, being Ardmurchan, which occasions this trouble to you. Wishing
prosperity and happiness to attend still yourself, worthy Lady, and
good family, we are, in the most affectionate manner,

Dear sir,

Your most obliged, affectionate,
and most humble servants,
DUGALL CAMERON, of Strone.
DUGALL CAMERON, of Ban.
DUGALL CAMERON, of Inveriskvouilline.
DUGALL CAMERON, of Invinvalie.
Strone, 11th March, 1737.

Ewen Cameron was protected, and his son has now a farm from the Laird
of Col, in Mull.

The family of Col was very loyal in the time of the great Montrose,
from whom I found two letters in his own hand-writing. The first is as
follows.

FOR MY VERY LOVING FRIEND THE LAIRD OF COALL.

SIR,

I must heartily thank you for all your willingness and good affection
to his Majesty's service, and particularly the sending alongs of your
son, to who I will heave ane particular respect, hopeing also that you
will still continue ane goode instrument for the advanceing ther of
the King's service, for which, and all your former loyal carriages, be
confident you shall find the effects of his Mas favour, as they can be
witnessed you by

Your very faithful friende,
MONTROSE.
Strethearne, 20 Jan. 1646

The other is,

FOR THE LAIRD OF COL.

SIR,

Having occasion to write to your fields, I cannot be forgetful of your
willingness and good affection to his Majesty's service. I acknowledge
to you, and thank you heartily for it assuring, that in what lies in
my power, you shall find the good. Mean while, I shall expect that you
will continue your loyal endeavours, in wishing those slack people
that are about you, to appear more obedient than they do, and loyal in
their prince's service; whereby I assure you, you shall find me ever

Your faithful friend,
MONTROSE.
Petty, 17 April, 1646.
[Footnote: It is observeable that men of the first rank spelt very ill
in the last century. In the first of these letters I have preserved
the original spelling.]

I found some uncouth lines on the death of the present laird's father,
intituled 'Nature's Elegy upon the Death of Donald Maclean of Col'.
They are not worth insertion. I shall only give what is called his
Epitaph, which Dr Johnson said, 'was not so very bad'.

Nature's minion. Virtue's wonder,
Art's corrective here lyes under.

I asked, what 'Art's corrective' meant. 'Why, sir,' said he, 'that
the laird was so exquisite, that he set Art right, when she was
wrong.'

I found several letters to the late Col, from my father's old
companion at Paris, Sir Hector M'Lean, one of which was written at the
time of settling the colony in Georgia. It dissuades Col from letting
people go there, and assures him there will soon be an opportunity of
employing them better at home. Hence it appears that emigration from
the Highlands, though not in such numbers at a time as of late, has
always been practised. Dr Johnson observed, that, 'the lairds, instead
of improving their country, diminished their people'.

There are several districts of sandy desart in Col. There are
forty-eight lochs of fresh water; but many of them are very small--meer
pools. About one half of them, however, have trout and eel. There is a
great number of horses in the island, mostly of a small size. Being
over-stocked, they sell some in Tir-yi, and on the main land. Their
black cattle, which are chiefly rough-haired, are reckoned remarkably
good. The climate being very mild in winter, they never put their beasts
in any house. The lakes are never frozen so as to bear a man; and snow
never lies above a few hours. They have a good many sheep, which they
eat mostly themselves, and sell but a few. They have goats in several
places. There are no foxes; no serpents, toads, or frogs, nor any
venomous creature. They have otters and mice here; but had no rats till
lately that an American vessel brought them. There is a rabbit-warren on
the north-east of the island, belonging to the Duke of Argyle. Young Col
intends to get some hares, of which there are none at present. There are
no black-cock, muir-fowl, nor partridges; but there are snipe,
wild-duck, wild-geese, and swans, in winter; wild-pidgeons, plover, and
great number of starlings; of which I shot some, and found them pretty
good eating. Woodcocks come hither, though there is not a tree upon the
island. There are no rivers in Col; but only some brooks, in which there
is a great variety of fish. In the whole isle there are but three hills,
and none of them considerable, for a Highland country. The people are
very industrious. Every man can tan. They get oak, and birch-bark, and
lime, from the main land. Some have pits; but they commonly use tubs. I
saw brogues very well tanned; and every man can make them. They all make
candles of the tallow of their beasts, both moulded and dipped; and they
all make oil of the livers of fish. The little fish called cuddies
produce a great deal. They sell some oil out of the island, and they use
it much for light in their houses, in little iron lamps, most of which
they have from England; but of late their own blacksmith makes them. He
is a good workman; but he has no employment in shoeing horses, for they
all go unshod here, except some of a better kind belonging to young Col,
which were now in Mull. There are two carpenters in Col; but most of the
inhabitants can do something as boat-carpenters. They can all dye. Heath
is used for yellow; and for red, a moss which grows on stones. They make
broad-cloth, and tartan, and linen, of their own wool and flax,
sufficient for their own use; as also stockings. Their bonnets come from
the main land. Hard-ware and several small articles are brought annually
from Greenock, and sold in the only shop in the island, which is kept
near the house, or rather hut, used for publick worship, there being no
church in the island. The inhabitants of Col have increased considerably
within these thirty years, as appears from the parish registers. There
are but three considerable tacksmen on Col's part of the island: the
rest is let to small tenants, some of whom pay so low a rent as four,
three, or even two guineas. The highest is seven pounds, paid by a
farmer, whose son goes yearly on foot to Aberdeen for education, and in
summer returns, and acts as a school-master in Col. Dr Johnson said,
'There is something noble in a young man's walking two hundred miles and
back again, every year, for the sake of learning.'

This day a number of people came to Col, with complaints of each
others' trespasses. Corneck, to prevent their being troublesome, told
them, that the lawyer from Edinburgh was here, and if they did not
agree, he would take them to task. They were alarmed at this; said,
they had never been used to go to law, and hoped Col would settle
matters himself. In the evening Corneck left us.

Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28