Books: The Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson, LL.D.

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If infidelity be disingenuously dispersed in every shape that is
likely to allure, surprise, or beguile the imagination--in a fable, a
tale, a novel, a poem, in books of travels, of philosophy, of natural
history, as Mr Paley has well observed--I hope it is fair in me thus
to meet such poison with an unexpected antidote, which I cannot doubt
will be found powerful.]

In conformity with this doctrine, I myself, though fully persuaded
that the House of Stuart had originally no right to the crown of
Scotland; for that Baliol, and not Bruce, was the lawful heir; should
yet have thought it very culpable to have rebelled, on that account,
against Charles the First, or even a prince of that house much nearer
the time, in order to assert the claim of the posterity of Baliol.

However convinced I am of the justice of that principle, which holds
allegiance and protection to be reciprocal, I do however acknowledge,
that I am not satisfied with the cold sentiment which would confine
the exertions of the subject within the strict line of duty. I would
have every breast animated with the FERVOUR of loyalty; with that
generous attachment which delights in doing somewhat more than is
required, and makes 'service perfect freedom'. And, therefore, as our
most gracious Sovereign, on his accession to the throne, gloried in
being born a Briton; so, in my more private sphere, Ego me nunc
denique natum gratulor. I am happy that a disputed succession no
longer distracts our minds; and that a monarchy, established by law,
is now so sanctioned by time, that we can fully indulge those feelings
of loyalty which I am ambitious to excite. They are feelings which
have ever actuated the inhabitants of the Highlands and the Hebrides.
The plant of loyalty is there in full vigour, and the Brunswick graft
now flourishes like a native shoot. To that spirited race of people I
may with propriety apply the elegant lines of a modern poet, on the
'facile temper of the beauteous sex':

Like birds new-caught, who flutter for a time.
And struggle with captivity in vain;
But by-and-by they rest, they smooth their plumes.
And to NEW MASTERS sing their former notes. [Footnote: Agis, a
tragedy, by John Home.]

Surely such notes are much better than the querulous growlings of
suspicious Whigs and discontented Republicans.

Kingsburgh conducted us in his boat, across one of the lochs, as they
call them, or arms of the sea, which flow in upon all the coasts of
Sky, to a mile beyond a place called Grishinish. Our horses had been
sent round by land to meet us. By this sail we saved eight miles of
bad riding. Dr Johnson said, 'When we take into the computation what
we have saved, and what we have gained, by this agreeable sail, it is
a great deal.' He observed, 'it is very disagreeable riding in Sky.
The way is so narrow, one only at a time can travel, so it is quite
unsocial; and you cannot indulge in meditation by yourself, because
you must be always attending to the steps which your horse takes.'
This was a just and clear description of its inconveniencies.

The topick of emigration being again introduced, Dr Johnson said, that
'a rapacious chief would make a wilderness of his estate'. Mr Donald
M'Queen told us, that the oppression, which then made so much noise,
was owing to landlords listening to bad advice in the letting of their
lands; that interested and designed people flattered them with golden
dreams of much higher rents than could reasonably be paid; and that
some of the gentlemen tacksmen, or upper tenants, were themselves in
part the occasion of the mischief, by over-rating the farms of others.
That many of the tacksmen, rather than comply with exorbitant demands,
had gone off to America, and impoverished the country, by draining it
of its wealth; and that their places were filled by a number of poor
people, who had lived under them, properly speaking, as servants, paid
by a certain proportion of the produce of the lands, though called
sub-tenants. I observed, that if the men of substance were once
banished from a Highland estate, it might probably be greatly reduced
in its value; for one bad year might ruin a set of poor tenants, and
men of any property would not settle in such a country, unless from
the temptation of getting land extremely cheap; for an inhabitant of
any good county in Britain, had better go to America than to the
Highlands or the Hebrides. Here, therefore was a consideration that
ought to induce a chief to act a more liberal part, from a mere motive
of interest, independent of the lofty and honourable principle of
keeping a clan together, to be in readiness to serve his king. I
added, that I could not help thinking a little arbitrary power in the
sovereign, to control the bad policy and greediness of the chiefs,
might sometimes be of service. In France a chief would not be
permitted to force a number of the king's subjects out of the country.
Dr Johnson concurred with me, observing, that 'were an oppressive
chieftain a subject of the French king, he would probably be
admonished by a LETTER'.

During our sail, Dr Johnson asked about the use of the dirk, with
which he imagined the highlanders cut their meat. He was told, they
had a knife and fork besides, to eat with. He asked, how did the women
do? and was answered, some of them had a knife and fork too; but in
general the men, when they had cut their meat, handed their knives and
forks to the women, and they themselves eat with their fingers. The
old tutor of Macdonald always eat fish with his fingers, alledging
that a knife and fork gave it a bad taste. I took the liberty to
observe to Dr Johnson, that he did so. 'Yes,' said he; 'but it is
because I am short-sighted, and afraid of bones, for which reason I am
not fond of eating many kinds of fish, because I must use my fingers.'

Dr M'Pherson's Dissertations on Scottish Antiquities, which he had
looked at when at Corrichatachin, being mentioned, he remarked, that
'you might read half an hour, and ask yourself what you had been
reading: there were so many words to so little matter, that there was
no getting through the book'. As soon as we reached the shore, we took
leave of Kingsburgh, and mounted our horses. We passed through a wild
moor, in many places so soft that we were obliged to walk, which was
very fatiguing to Dr Johnson. Once he had advanced on horseback to a
very bad step. There was a steep declivity on his left, to which he
was so near, that there was not room for him to dismount in the usual
way. He tried to alight on the other side, as if he had been a 'young
buck' indeed, but in the attempt he fell at his length upon the
ground; from which, however, he got up immediately without being hurt.
During this dreary ride, we were sometimes relieved by a view of
branches of the sea, that universal medium of connection amongst
mankind. A guide, who had been sent with us from Kingsburgh, explored
the way (much in the same manner as, I suppose, is pursued in the
wilds of America) by observing certain marks known only to the
inhabitants. We arrived at Dunvegan late in the afternoon. The great
size of the castle, which is partly old and partly new, and is built
upon a rock close to the sea, while the land around it presents
nothing but wild, moorish, hilly, and craggy appearances, gave a rude
magnificence to the scene. Having dismounted, we ascended a flight of
steps, which was made by the late Macleod, for the accomodation of
persons coming to him by land, there formerly being, for security, no
other access to the castle but from the sea; so that visitors who came
by the land were under the necessity of getting into a boat, and
sailed round to the only place where it could be approached. We were
introduced into a stately dining-room, and received by Lady Macleod,
mother of the laird, who, with his friend Talisker, having been
detained on the road, did not arrive till some time after us.

We found the lady of the house a very polite and sensible woman, who
had lived for some time in London, and had there been in Dr Johnson's
company. After we had dined, we repaired to the drawing-room, where
some of the young ladies of the family, with their mother, were at
tea. This room had formerly been the bed-chamber of Sir Roderick
Macleod, one of the old lairds; and he chose it, because, behind it,
there was a considerable cascade, the sound of which disposed him to
sleep. Above his bed was this inscription: SIR RORIE M'LEOD OF
DUNVEGAN, KNIGHT. GOD SEND GOOD REST! Rorie is the contraction of
Roderick. He was called Rorie More, that is, great Rorie, not from his
size, but from his spirit. Our entertainment here was in so elegant a
style, and reminded my fellow-traveller so much of England, that he
became quite joyous. He laughed, and said, 'Boswell, we came in at the
wrong end of this island.' 'Sir,' said I, 'it was best to keep this
for the last.' He answered, 'I would have it both first and last.'

Tuesday, 14th September

Dr Johnson said in the morning, 'Is not this a fine lady?' There was
not a word now of his 'impatience to be in civilized life'; though
indeed I should beg pardon--he found it here. We had slept well, and
lain long. After breakfast we surveyed the castle, and the garden. Mr
Bethune, the parish minister, Magnus M'Leod, of Claggan, brother to
Talisker, and M'Leod, of Bay, two substantial gentlemen of the clan,
dined with us. We had admirable venison, generous wine; in a word, all
that a good table has. This was really the hall of a chief. Lady
M'Leod had been much obliged to my father, who had settled by
arbitration, a variety of perplexed claims between her and her
relation, the Laird of Brodie, which she now repaid by particular
attention to me. M'Leod started the subject of making women do penance
in the church for fornication. JOHNSON. 'It is right, sir. Infamy is
attached to the crime, by universal opinion, as soon as it is known. I
would not be the man who would discover it, if I alone knew it, for a
woman may reform; nor would I commend a parson who divulges a woman's
first offence; but being once divulged, it ought to be infamous.
Consider, of what importance to society the chastity of women is. Upon
that all the property in the world depends. We hang a thief for
stealing a sheep; but the unchastity of a woman transfers sheep, and
farm and all, from the right owner. I have much more reverence for a
common prostitute than for a woman who conceals her guilt. The
prostitute is known. She cannot deceive: she cannot bring a strumpet
into the arms of an honest man, without his knowledge.' BOSWELL.
'There is, however, a great difference between the licentiousness of a
single woman, and that of a married woman.' JOHNSON. 'Yes, sir; there
is a great difference between stealing a shilling, and stealing a
thousand pounds; between simply taking a man's purse, and murdering
him first, and then taking it. But when one begins to be vicious, it
is easy to go on. Where single women are licentious, you rarely find
faithful married women.' BOSWELL. 'And yet we are told that in some
nations in India, the distinction is strictly observed.' JOHNSON.
'Nay, don't give us India. That puts me in mind of Montesquieu, who is
really a fellow of genius too in many respects; whenever he wants to
support a strange opinion, he quotes you the practice of Japan or of
some other distant country, of which he knows nothing. To support
polygamy, he tells you of the island of Formosa, where there are ten
women born for one man. He had but to suppose another island, where
there are ten men born for one woman, and so make a marriage between
them.' [Footnote: What my friend treated as so wild a supposition, has
actually happened in the western islands of Scotland, if we may
believe Martin, who tells it of the islands of Col and Tyr-yi, and
says that it is proved by the parish registers.]

At supper, Lady Macleod mentioned Dr Cadogan's book on the gout.
JOHNSON. 'It is a good book in general, but a foolish one in
particulars. It is good in general, as recommending temperance and
exercise, and cheerfulness. In that respect it is only Dr Cheyne's
book told in a new way; and there should come out such a book every
thirty years, dressed in the mode of the times. It is foolish, in
maintaining that the gout is not hereditary, and that one fit of it,
when gone, is like a fever when gone.' Lady Macleod objected that the
author does not practice what he teaches. [Footnote: This was a
general reflection against Dr Cadogan, when his very popular book was
first published. It was said, that whatever precepts he might give to
others, he himself indulged freely in the bottle. But I have since had
the pleasure of becoming acquainted with him, and, if his own
testimony may be believed (and I have never heard it impeached), his
course of life, has been conformable to his doctrine.] JOHNSON. 'I
cannot help that, madam. That does not make his book the worse. People
are influenced more by what a man says, if his practice is suitable to
it, because they are blockheads. The more intellectual people are, the
readier will they attend to what a man tells them. If it is just, they
will follow it, be his practice what it will. No man practises so well
as he writes. I have, all my life long, been lying till noon; yet I
tell all young men, and tell them with great sincerity, that nobody
who does not rise early will ever do any good. Only consider! You read
a book; you are convinced by it; you do not know the authour. Suppose
you afterwards know him, and find that he does not practice what he
teaches; are you to give up your former conviction At this rate you
would be kept in a state of equilibrium, when reading every book, till
you knew how the authour practised.' 'But,' said Lady M'Leod, 'you
would think better of Dr Cadogan, if he acted according to his
principles.' JOHNSON. 'Why, madam, to be sure, a man who acts in the
face of light, is worse than a man who does not know so much; yet I
think no man should be the worse thought of for publishing good
principles. There is something noble in publishing truth, though it
condemns one's self.' I expressed some surprize at Cadogan's
recommending good humour, as if it were quite in our power to attain
it. JOHNSON. 'Why, sir, a man grows better humoured as he grows older.
He improves by experience. When young, he thinks himself of great
consequence, and every thing of importance. As he advances in life, he
learns to think himself of no consequence, and little things of little
importance; and so he becomes more patient, and better pleased. All
good humour and complaisance are acquired. Naturally a child seizes
directly what it sees, and thinks of pleasing itself only. By degrees,
it is taught to please others, and to prefer others; and that this
will ultimately produce the greatest happiness. If a man is not
convinced of that, he never will practice it. Common language speaks
the truth as to this: we say, a person is well BRED.

As it is said, that all material motion is primarily in a right line,
and is never per circuitum, never in another form, unless by some
particular cause; so it may be said intellectual motion is.' Lady
M'Leod asked, if no man was naturally good. JOHNSON. 'No, madam, no
more than a wolf.' BOSWELL. 'Nor no woman, sir?' JOHNSON. 'No, sir.'
Lady M'Leod started at this, saying, in a low voice, 'This is worse
than Swift.'

M'Leod of Ulinish had come in the afternoon. We were a jovial company
at supper. The laird, surrounded by so many of his clan, was to me a
pleasing sight. They listened with wonder and pleasure, while Dr
Johnson harangued. I am vexed that I cannot take down his full train
of eloquence.

Wednesday, 15th September

The gentlemen of the clan went away early in the morning to the
harbour of Lochbradale, to take leave of some of their friends who
were going to America. It was a very wet day. We looked at Rorie
More's horn, which is a large cow's horn, with the mouth of it
ornamented with silver curiously carved. It holds rather more than a
bottle and a half. Every laird of M'Leod, it is said, must, as a proof
of his manhood, drink it off full of claret, without laying it down.
From Rorie More many of the branches of the family are descended; in
particular, the Talisker branch; so that his name is much talked of.
We also saw his bow, which hardly any man now can bend, and his
glaymore, which was wielded with both hands, and is of a prodigious
size. We saw here some old pieces of iron armour, immensely heavy. The
broadsword now used, though called the glaymore (i.e. the great
sword), is much smaller than that used in Rorie More's time. There is
hardly a target now to be found in the Highlands. After the disarming
act, they made them serve as covers to their butter-milk barrels; a
kind of change, like beating spears into pruning-hooks. Sir George
Mackenzie's Works (the folio edition) happened to lie in a window in
the dining room. I asked Dr Johnson to look at the Characteres
Advocatorum. He allowed him power of mind, and that he understood very
well what he tells; but said, that there was too much declamation, and
that the Latin was not correct. He found fault with approprinquabant,
in the character of Gilmour. I tried him with the opposition between
gloria and palma, in the comparison between Gilmour and Nisbet, which
Lord Hailes, in his Catalogue of the Lords of Session, thinks
difficult to be understood. The words are, penes ittum gloria, penes
hunc palma. In a short Account of the Kirk of Scotland, which I
published some years ago, I applied these words to the two contending
parties, and explained them thus: 'The popular party has most
eloquence; Dr Robertson's party most influence.' I was very desirous
to hear Dr Johnson's explication. JOHNSON. 'I see no difficulty.
Gilmour was admired for his parts; Nisbet carried his cause by the
skill in law. Palma is victory.' I observed, that the character of
Nicholson, in this book resembled that of Burke: for it is said, in
one place, in omnes lusos & jocos se saepe resolvebat; [Footnote: He
often indulged himself in every species of pleasantry and wit.] and,
in another, sed accipitris more e conspectu aliquando astantium
sublimi se protrahens volatu, in praedam miro impetu descendebat.
[Footnote: But like the hawk, having soared with a lofty flight to a
height which the eye could not reach, he was want to swoop upon his
quarry with wonderful rapidity.] JOHNSON. 'No, sir; I never heard
Burke make a good joke in my life.' BOSWELL. 'But, sir, you will allow
he is a hawk.' Dr Johnson, thinking that I meant this of his joking,
said, 'No, sir, he is not the hawk there. He is the beetle in the
mire.' I still adhered to my metaphor. 'But he SOARS as the hawk.'
JOHNSON. 'Yes, sir; but he catches nothing.' M'Leod asked, what is the
particular excellence of Burke's eloquence? JOHNSON. 'Copiousness and
fertility of allusion; a power of diversifying his matter, by placing
it in various relations. Burke has great information, and great
command of language; though, in my opinion, it has not in every
respect the highest elegance.' BOSWELL. 'Do you think, sir, that Burke
has read Cicero much?' JOHNSON. 'I don't believe it, sir. Burke has
great knowledge, great fluency of words, and great promptness of
ideas, so that he can speak with great illustration on any subject
that comes before him. He is neither like Cicero, nor like
Demosthenes, nor like any one else, but speaks as well as he can.'

In the 65th page of the first volume of Sir George Mackenzie, Dr
Johnson pointed out a paragraph beginning with 'Aristotle', and told
me there was an error in the text, which he bade me try to discover. I
was lucky enough to hit it at once. As the passage is printed, it is
said that the devil answers EVEN in ENGINES. I corrected it to--EVER
in AENIGMAS. 'Sir,' said he, 'you are a good critick. This would have
been a great thing to do in the text of an ancient authour.'

Thursday, 16th September

Last night much care was taken of Dr Johnson, who was still distressed
by his cold. He had hitherto most strangely slept without a night-cap.
Miss M'Leod made him a large flannel one, and he was prevailed with to
drink a little brandy when he was going to bed. He has great virtue,
in not drinking wine or any fermented liquor, because, as he
acknowledged to us, he could not do it in moderation. Lady M'Leod
would hardly believe him, and said, 'I am sure, sir, you would not
carry it too far.' JOHNSON. 'Nay, madam, it carried me. I took the
opportunity of a long illness to leave it off. It was then prescribed
to me not to drink wine; and having broken off the habit, I have never
returned to it.'

In the argument on Tuesday night, about natural goodness, Dr Johnson
denied that any child was better than another, but by difference of
instruction; though, in consequence of greater attention being paid to
instruction by one child than another, and of a variety of
imperceptible causes, such as instruction being counteracted by
servants, a notion was conceived, that of two children, equally well
educated, one was naturally much worse than another. He owned, this
morning, that one might have a greater aptitude to learn than another,
and that we inherit dispositions from our parents. 'I inherited,' said
he, 'a vile melancholy from my father, which has made me mad all my
life, at least not sober.' Lady M'Leod wondered he should tell this.
'Madam,' said I, 'he knows that with that madness he is superior to
other men.'

I have often been astonished with what exactness and perspicuity he
will explain the process of any art. He this morning explained to us
all the operation of coining, and, at night, all the operation of
brewing, so very clearly, that Mr M'Queen said, when he heard the
first, he thought he had been bred in the Mint; when he heard the
second, that he had been bred a brewer.

I was elated by the thought of having been able to entice such a man
to this remote part of the world. A ludicrous, yet just image
presented itself to my mind, which I expressed to the company. I
compared myself to a dog who has got hold of a large piece of meat,
and runs away with it to a corner, where he may devour it in peace,
without any fear of others taking it from him. 'In London, Reynolds,
Beauclerk, and all of them, are contending who shall enjoy Dr
Johnson's conversation. We are feasting upon it, undisturbed, at
Dunvegan.'

It was still a storm of wind and rain. Dr Johnson however walked out
with M'Leod, and saw Rorie More's cascade in full perfection. Colonel
M'Leod, instead of being all life and gaiety, as I have seen him, was
at present grave, and somewhat depressed by his anxious concern about
M'Leod's affairs, and by finding some gentlemen of the clan by no
means disposed to act a generous or affectionate part to their chief
in his distress, but bargaining with him as with a stranger. However,
he was agreeable and polite, and Dr Johnson said, he was a very
pleasing man. My fellow-traveller and I talked of going to Sweden;
and, while we were settling our plan, I expressed a pleasure in the
prospect of seeing the king. JOHNSON. 'I doubt, sir, if he would speak
to us.' Colonel M'Leod said, 'I am sure Mr Boswell would speak to
HIM.' But, seeing me a little disconcerted by his remark, he politely
added, 'and with great propriety'. Here let me offer a short defence
of that propensity in my disposition, to which this gentleman alluded.
It has procured me much happiness. I hope it does not deserve so hard
a name as either forwardness or impudence. If I know myself, it is
nothing more than an eagerness to share the society of men
distinguished either by their rank or their talents, and a diligence
to attain what I desire. If a man is praised for seeking knowledge,
though mountains and seas are in his way, may he not be pardoned,
whose ardour, in the pursuit of the same object, leads him to
encounter difficulties as great, though of a different kind?

After the ladies were gone from table, we talked of the highlanders
not having sheets; and this led us to consider the advantage of
wearing linen. JOHNSON. 'All animal substances are less cleanly than
vegetables. Wool, of which flannel is made, is an animal substance;
flannel therefore is not so cleanly as linen. I remember I used to
think tar dirty; but when I knew it to be only a preparation of the
juice of the pine, I thought so no longer. It is not disagreeable to
have the gum that oozes from a plumb-tree upon your fingers, because
it is vegetable, but if you have any candle-grease, any tallow upon
your fingers, you are uneasy till you rub it off. I have often
thought, that, if I kept a seraglio, the ladies should all wear linen
gowns, or cotton--I mean stuffs made of vegetable substances. I would
have no silk; you cannot tell when it is clean: it will be very nasty
before it is perceived to be so. Linen detects its own dirtiness.'

To hear the grave Dr Samuel Johnson, 'that majestick teacher of moral
and religious wisdom', while sitting solemn in an arm-chair in the
Isle of Sky, talk, ex cathedra, of his keeping a seraglio, and
acknowledge that the supposition had OFTEN been in his thoughts,
struck me so forcibly with ludicrous contrast, that I could not but
laugh immoderately. He was too proud to submit, even for a moment, to
be the object of ridicule, and instantly retaliated with such keen
sarcastick wit, and such a variety of degrading images, of every one
of which I was the object, that, though I can bear such attacks as
well as most men, I yet found myself so much the sport of all the
company, that I would gladly expunge from my mind every trace of this
severe retort.

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