Books: Himalayan Journals (Complete)

J >> J. D. Hooker >> Himalayan Journals (Complete)

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Illustration--HORNS OF THE SHOWA STAG (_Cervus Wallichii_), A NATIVE
OF CHOOMBI IN TIBET.
Length of antler, 4 feet 6 in.

CHAPTER XXVI.

Dr. Campbell is ordered to appear at Durbar -- Lamas called to
council -- Threats -- Searcity of food -- Arrival of Dewan -- Our
jailer, Thoba-sing -- Temperature, etc., at Tumloong -- Services of
Goompas -- Lepcha girl -- Jew's-harp -- Terror of servants --
Ilam-sing's family -- Interview with Dewan -- Remonstrances -- Dewan
feigns sickness -- Lord Dalhousie's letter to Rajah -- Treatment of
Indo-Chinese -- Concourse of Lamas -- Visit of Tchebu Lama -- Close
confinement -- Dr. Campbell's illness -- Conference with Amlah --
Relaxation of confinement -- Pemiongchi Lama's intercession -- Escape
of Nimbo -- Presents from Rajah, Ranee and people -- Protestations of
friendship -- Mr. Lushington sent to Dorjiling -- Leave Tumloong --
Cordial farewell -- Dewan's merchandise -- Gangtok Kajee -- Dewan's
pomp -- Governor-General's letter -- Dikkeeling -- Suspicion of
poison -- Dinner and pills -- Tobacco -- Bhotanese colony --
Katong-ghat on Teesta -- Wild lemons -- Sepoys' insolence -- Dewan
alarmed -- View of Dorjiling -- Threats of a rescue -- Fears of our
escape -- Tibet flutes -- Negotiate our release -- Arrival at
Dorjiling -- Dr. Thomson joins me -- Movement of troops at Dorjiling
-- Seizure of Rajah's Terai property.

Since his confinement, Dr. Campbell had been desired to attend the
Durbar for the purpose of transacting business, but had refused to
go, except by compulsion, considering that in the excited state of
the authorities, amongst whom there was not one person of
responsibility or judgment, his presence would not only be useless,
but he might be exposed to further insult or possibly violence.

On the 15th of November we were informed that the Dewan was on his
way from Tibet: of this we were glad, for knave as he was, we had
hitherto considered him to possess sense and understanding.
His agents were beginning to find out their mistake, and summoned to
council the principal Lamas and Kajees of the country, who, to a man,
repudiated the proceedings, and refused to attend. Our captors were
extremely anxious to induce us to write letters to Dorjiling, and
sent spies of all kinds to offer us facilities for secret
correspondence. The simplicity and clumsiness with which these
artifices were attempted would have been ludicrous under other
circumstances; while the threat of murdering Campbell only alarmed
us, inasmuch as it came from people too stupid to be trusted. We made
out that all Sikkim people were excluded from Dorjiling, and the
Amlah consequently could not conceal their anxiety to know what had
befallen their letters to government.

Meanwhile we were but scantily fed, and our imprisoned coolies got
nothing at all. Our guards, were supplied with a handful of rice or
meal as the day's allowance; they were consequently grumbling,* [The
Rajah has no standing army; not even a body-guard, and these men were
summoned to Tumloong before our arrival: they had no arms and
received no pay, but were fed when called out on duty. There is no
store for grain, no bazaar or market, in any part of the country,
each family growing little enough for its own wants and no more;
consequently Sikkim could not stand on the defensive for a week.
The Rajah receives his supply of grain in annual contributions from
the peasantry, who thus pay a rent in kind, which varies from little
to nothing, according to the year, etc. He had also property of his
own in the Terai, but the slender proceeds only enabled him to trade
with Tibet for tea, etc.] and were daily reduced in number.
The supplies of rice from the Terai, beyond Dorjiling, were cut off
by the interruption of communication, and the authorities evidently
could not hold us long at this rate: we sent up complaints, but of
course received no answer.

The Dewan arrived in the afternoon in great state; carried in an
English chair given him by Campbell some years before, habited in a
blue silk cloak lined with lambskin, and wearing an enormous straw
hat with a red tassel, and black velvet butterflies on the flapping
brim. He was accompanied by a household of women, who were laden with
ornaments, and wore boots, and sat astride on ponies; many Lamas were
also with him, one of whom wore a broad Chinese-like hat covered with
polished copper foil. Half a dozen Sepoys with matchlocks preceded
him, and on approaching Tumloong, bawled out his titles, dignities,
etc., as was formerly the custom in England.

Illustration--RAJAH'S RESIDENCE, AND THE HUT ASSIGNED TO US. ARRIVAL
OF THE DEWAN.

At Dorjiling our seizure was still unknown: our letters were brought
to us, but we were not allowed to answer them. Now that the Dewan had
arrived, we hoped to come to a speedy explanation with him, but he
shammed sickness, and sent no answer to our messages; if indeed he
received them. Our guards were reduced to one Sepoy with a knife, who
was friendly; and a dirty, cross-eyed fellow named Thoba-sing, who,
with the exception of Tchebu Lama, was the only Bhoteea about the
Durbar who could speak Hindostanee, and who did it very imperfectly:
he was our attendant and spy, the most barefaced liar I ever met
with, even in the east; and as cringing and obsequious when alone
with us, as he was to his masters on other occasions, when he never
failed to show off his authority over us in an offensive manner.
Though he was the most disagreeable fellow we were ever thrown in
contact with, I do not think that he was therefore selected, but
solely from his possessing a few words of Hindostanee, and his
presumed capability of playing the spy.

The weather was generally drizzling or rainy, and we were getting
very tired of our captivity; but I beguiled the time by carefully
keeping my meteorological register,* [During the thirty days spent at
Tumloong, the temperature was mild and equable, with much cloud and
drizzle, but little hard rain; and we experienced violent
thunder-storms, followed by transient sunshine. Unlike 1848, the
rains did not cease this year before the middle of December; nor had
there been one fine month since April. The mean temperature, computed
from 150 observations, was 50.2 degrees, and from the maximum and
minimum thermometer 49.6 degrees, which is a fair approximation to
the theoretical temperature calculated for the elevation and month,
and allows a fall of 1 degree for 320 feet of ascent. The temperature
during the spring (from 50 observations) varied during the day from
2.4 degrees to 5.8 degrees higher than that of the air, the greatest
differences occurring morning and evening. The barometric tide
amounted to 0.091 between 9.50 a.m. and 4 p.m., which is less than at
the level of the plains of India, and more than at any greater
elevation than Tumloong. The air was always damp, nearly saturated at
night, and the mean amount of humidity for ninety-eight observations
taken during the day was only 0.850, corresponding to a dew-point of
49.6 degrees, or 5.2 degrees below that of the air.] and by reducing
many of my previous observations. Each morning we were awakened at
daybreak by the prolonged echos of the conchs, trumpets, and cymbals,
beaten by the priests before the many temples in the valley: wild and
pleasing sounds, often followed by their choral chants. After dark
we sat over the fire, generally in company with a little Lepcha girl,
who was appointed to keep us in fire-wood, and who sat watching our
movements with childish curiosity. Dolly, as we christened her, was a
quick child and a kind one, intolerably dirty, but very entertaining
from her powers of mimicry. She was fond of hearing me whistle airs,
and procured me a Tibetan Jews'-harp,* [This instrument (which is
common in Tibet) is identical with the European, except that the
tongue is produced behind the bow, in a strong steel spike, by which
the instrument is held firmer to the mouth.] with which, and coarse
tobacco, which I smoked out of a Tibetan brass pipe, I wiled away the
dark evenings, whilst my cheerful companion amused himself with an
old harmonicon, to the enchantment of Dolly and our guards
and neighbours.

Illustration--TIBET PIPE, AND TINDER-POUCH WITH STEEL ATTACHED.

The messengers from Dorjiling were kept in utter ignorance of our
confinement till their arrival at Tumloong, when they were
cross-questioned, and finally sent to us. They gradually became too
numerous, there being only one apartment for ourselves, and such of
our servants as were not imprisoned elsewhere. Some of them were
frightened out of their senses, and the state of abject fear and
trembling in which one Limboo arrived, and continued for nearly a
week, was quite distressing* [It amounted to a complete prostration
of bodily and mental powers: the man trembled and started when spoken
to, or at any noise, a cold sweat constantly bedewed his forehead,
and he continued in this state for eight days. No kindness on
Campbell's part could rouse him to give any intelligible account of
his fears or their cause. His companions said he had lost his goroo,
_i.e.,_ his charm, which the priest gives him while yet a child, and
which he renews or gets re-sanctified as occasion requires. To us the
circumstance was extremely painful.] to every one except Dolly, who
mimicked him in a manner that was irresistibly ludicrous. Whether he
had been beaten or threatened we could not make out, nor whether he
had heard of some dark fate impending over ourselves--a suspicion
which would force itself on our minds; especially as Thoba-sing had
coolly suggested to the Amlah the dispatching of Campbell, as the
shortest way of getting out of the scrape! We were also ignorant
whether any steps were being taken at Dorjiling for our release,
which we felt satisfied must follow any active measures against these
bullying cowards, though they themselves frequently warned us that we
should be thrown into the Teesta if any such were pursued.

So long as our money lasted, we bought food, for the Durbar had none
to give; and latterly my ever charitable companion fed our guards,
including Dolly and Thoba-sing, in pity to their pinched condition.
Several families sent us small presents, especially that of the late
estimable Dewan, Ilam-sing, whose widow and daughters lived close by,
and never failed to express in secret their sympathy and good feeling.

Tchebu Lama's and Meepo's families were equally forward in their
desire to serve us; but they were marked men, and could only
communicate by stealth.

Our coolies were released on the 18th, more than half starved, but
the Sirdars were still kept in chains or the stocks: some were sent
back to Dorjiling, and the British subjects billetted off amongst the
villagers, and variously employed by the Dewan: my lad, Cheytoong,
was set to collect the long leaves of a _Tupistra,_ called
"Purphiok," which yield a sweet juice, and were chopped up and mixed
with tobacco for the Dewan's hookah.

_November 20th._--The Dewan, we heard this day, ignored all the late
proceedings, professing to be enraged with his brother and the Amlah,
and refusing to meddle in the matter. This was no doubt a pretence:
we had sent repeatedly for an explanation with himself or the Rajah,
from which he excused himself on the plea of ill-health, till this
day, when he apprized us that he would meet Campbell, and a cotton
tent was pitched for the purpose.

We went about noon, and were received with great politeness and
shaking of hands by the Dewan, the young Gangtok Kajee, and the old
monk who had been present at my examination at Phadong. Tchebu Lama's
brother was also there, as a member of the Amlah, lately taken into
favour; while Tchebu himself acted as interpreter, the Dewan speaking
only Tibetan. They all sat cross-legged on a bamboo bench on one
side, and we on chairs opposite them: walnuts and sweetmeats were
brought us, and a small present in the Rajah's name, consisting of
rice, flour, and butter.

The Dewan opened the conversation both in this and another
conference, which took place on the 22nd, by requesting Campbell to
state his reasons for having desired these interviews. Neither he nor
the Amlah seemed to have the smallest idea of the nature and
consequences of the acts they had committed, and they therefore
anxiously sought information as to the view that would be taken of
them by the British Government. They could not see why Campbell
should not transact business with them in his present condition, and
wanted him to be the medium of communication between themselves and
Calcutta. The latter confined himself to pointing out his own views
of the following subjects:--1. The seizing and imprisoning of the
agent of a friendly power, travelling unarmed and without escort,
under the formal protection of the Rajah, and with the authority of
his own government. 2. The aggravation of this act of the Amlah, by
our present detention under the Dewan's authority. 3. The chance of
collision, and the disastrous consequences of a war, for which they
had no preparation of any kind. 4. The impossibility of the supreme
government paying any attention to their letters so long as we were
illegally detained.

All this sank deep into the Dewan's heart: he answered, "You have
spoken truth, and I will submit it all to the Rajah;" but at the same
time he urged that there was nothing dishonourable in the
imprisonment, and that the original violence being all a mistake, it
should be overlooked by both parties. We parted on good terms, and
heard shortly after the second conference that our release was
promised and arranged: when a communication* [I need scarcely say
that every step was taken at Dorjiling for our release, that the most
anxious solicitude for our safety could suggest. But the first
communication to the Rajah, though it pointed out the heinous nature
of his offence, was, through a natural fear of exasperating our
captors, couched in very moderate language. The particulars of our
seizure, and the reasons for it, and for our further detention, were
unknown at Dorjiling, or a very different line of policy would have
been pursued.] from Dorjiling changed their plans, the Dewan
conveniently fell sick on the spot, and we were thrown back again.

In the meantime, however, we were allowed to write to our friends,
and to receive money and food, of which we stood in great need.
I transmitted a private account of the whole affair to the
Governor-General, who was unfortunately at Bombay, but to whose
prompt and vigorous measures we were finally indebted for our
release. His lordship expedited a despatch to the Rajah, such as the
latter was accustomed to receive from Nepal, Bhotan, or Lhassa, and
such as alone commands attention from these half-civilized
Indo-Chinese, who measure power by the firmness of the tone adopted
towards them; and who, whether in Sikkim, Birmah, Siam, Bhotan, or
China, have too long been accustomed to see every article of our
treaties contravened, with no worse consequences than a protest or a
threat, which is never carried into execution till some fatal step
calls forth the dormant power of the British Government.* [We forget
that all our concessions to these people are interpreted into
weakness; that they who cannot live on an amicable equality with one
another, cannot be expected to do so with us; that all our talk of
power and resources are mere boasts to habitual bullies, so long as
we do not exert ourselves in the correction of premeditated insults.
No Government can be more tolerant, more sincerely desirous of peace,
and more anxious to confine its sway within its own limits than that
of India, but it can only continue at peace by demanding respect, and
the punctilious enforcement of even the most trifling terms in the
treaties it makes with Indo-Chinese.]

The end of the month arrived without bringing any prospect of our
release, whilst we were harassed by false reports of all kinds.
The Dewan went on the 25th to a hot bath, a few hundred feet down the
hill; he was led past our hut, his burly frame tottering as if in
great weakness, but a more transparent fraud could not have been
practised: he was, in fact, lying on his oars, pending further
negotiations. The Amlah proposed that Campbell should sign a bond,
granting immunity for all past offences on their part, whilst they
were to withdraw the letter of grievances against him. The Lamas cast
horoscopes for the future, little presents continually arrived for
us, and the Ranee sent me some tobacco, and to Campbell brown sugar
and Murwa beer. The blacksmiths, who had been ostentatiously making
long knives at the forge hard by, were dismissed; troops were said to
be arriving at Dorjiling, and a letter sternly demanding our release
bad been received.

The Lamas of Pemiongchi, Changachelling, Tassiding, etc., and the
Dewan's enemies, and Tchebu Lama's friends, began to flock from all
quarters to Tumloong, demanding audience of the Rajah, and our
instant liberation. The Dewan's game was evidently up; but the
timidity of his opponents, his own craft, and the habitual
dilatoriness of all, contributed to cause endless delays. The young
Gangtok Kajee tried to curry favour with us, sending word that he was
urging our release, and adding that he had some capital ponies for us
to see on our way to Dorjiling! Many similar trifles showed that
these people had not a conception of the nature of their position, or
of that of an officer of the British Government.

The Tchebu Lama visited us only once, and then under surveillance; he
renewed his professions of good faith, and we had every reason to
know that he had suffered severely for his adherence to us, and
consistent repudiation of the Amlah's conduct; he was in great favour
with his brother Lamas, but was not allowed to see the Rajah, who was
said to trust to him alone of all his counsellors. He told us that
peremptory orders had arrived from Calcutta for our release, but that
the Amlah had replied that they would not acknowledge the despatch,
from its not bearing the Governor-General's great seal!
The country-people refusing to be saddled with the keep of our
coolies, they were sent to Dorjiling in small parties, charged to say
that we were free, and following them.

The weather continued rainy and bad, with occasionally a few hours of
sunshine, which, however, always rendered the ditch before our door
offensive: we were still prevented leaving the hot, but as a great
annual festival was going on, we were less disagreeably watched.
Campbell was very unwell, and we had no medicine; and as the Dewan,
accustomed to such duplicity himself, naturally took this for a
_ruse,_ and refused to allow us to send to Dorjiling for any, we were
more than ever convinced that his own sickness was simulated.

On the 2nd and 3rd December we had further conferences with the
Dewan, who said that we were to be taken to Dorjiling in six days,
with two Vakeels from the Rajah. The Pemiongchi Lama, as the oldest
and most venerated in Sikkim, attended, and addressed Campbell in a
speech of great feeling and truth. Having heard, he said, of these
unfortunate circumstances a few days ago, he had come on feeble
limbs, and though upwards of seventy winters old, as the
representative of his holy brotherhood, to tender advice to his
Rajah, which he hoped would be followed: Since Sikkim had been
connected with the British rule, it had experienced continued peace
and protection; whereas before they were in constant dread of their
lives and properties, which, as well as their most sacred temples,
were violated by the Nepalese and Bhotanese. He then dwelt upon
Campbell's invariable kindness and good feeling, and his exertions
for the benefit of their country, and for the cementing of
friendship, and hoped he would not let these untoward events induce
an opposite course in future but that he would continue to exert his
influence with the Governor-General in their favour.

The Dewan listened attentively; he was anxious and perplexed, and
evidently losing his presence of mind: he talked to us of Lhassa and
its gaieties, dromedaries, Lamas, and everything Tibetan; offered to
sell us ponies cheap, and altogether behaved in a most, undignified
manner; ever and anon calling attention to his pretended sick leg,
which he nursed on his knee. He gave us the acceptable news that the
government at Calcutta had sent up an officer to carry on Campbell's
duties, which had alarmed him exceedingly. The Rajah, we were told,
was very angry at our seizure and detention; he had no fault to find
with the Governor-General's agent, and hoped he would be continued as
such. In fact, all the blame was thrown on the brothers of the Dewan,
and of the Gangtok Kajee, and more irresponsible stupid boors could
not have been found on whom to lay it, or who would have felt less
inclined to commit such folly if it had not been put on them by the
Dewan. On leaving, white silk scarfs were thrown over our shoulders,
and we went away, still doubtful, after so many disappointments,
whether we should really be set at liberty at the stated period.

Although there was so much talk about our leaving, our confinement
continued as rigorous as ever. The Dewan curried favour in every
other way, sending us Tibetan wares for purchase, with absurd prices
attached, he being an arrant pedlar. All the principal families
waited on us, desiring peace and friendship. The coolies who had not
been dismissed were allowed to run away, except my Bhotan Sirdar,
Nimbo, against whom the Dewan was inveterate;* [The Sikkim people are
always at issue with the Bhotanese. Nimbo was a runaway slave of the
latter country, who had been received into Sikkim, and retained there
until he took up his quarters at Dorjiling.] he, however, managed
soon afterwards to break a great chain with which his legs were
shackled, and marching at night, eluded a hot pursuit, and proceeded
to the Teesta, swam the river, and reached Dorjiling in eight days;
arriving with a large iron ring on each leg, and a link of several
pounds weight attached to one.

Parting presents arrived from the Rajah on the 7th, consisting of
ponies, cloths, silks, woollens, immense squares of butter, tea, and
the usual et ceteras, to the utter impoverishment of his stores:
these he offered to the two Sahibs, "in token of his amity with the
British government, his desire for peace, and deprecation of angry
discussions." The Ranee sent silk purses, fans, and such Tibetan
paraphernalia, with an equally amicable message, that "she was most
anxious to avert the consequences of whatever complaints had gone
forth against Dr. Campbell, who might depend on her strenuous
exertions to persuade the Rajah to do whatever he wished!"
These friendly messages were probably evoked by the information that
an English regiment, with three guns, was on its way to Sikkim, and
that 300 of the Bhaugulpore Rangers had already arrived there.
The government of Bengal sending another agent* [Mr. Lushington, the
gentleman sent to conduct Sikkim affairs during Dr. Campbell's
detention: to whom I shall ever feel grateful for his activity in our
cause, and his unremitting attention to every little arrangement that
could alleviate the discomforts and anxieties of our position.] to
Dorjiling, was also a contingency they had not anticipated, having
fully expected to get rid of any such obstacle to direct
communication with the Governor-General.

A present from the whole population followed that of the Ranee,
coupled with earnest entreaties that Campbell would resume his
position at Dorjiling; and on the following day forty coolies
mustered to arrange the baggage. Before we left, the Ranee sent three
rupees to buy a yard of chale and some gloves, accompanying them
with a present of white silk, etc., for Mrs. Campbell, to whom the
commission was intrusted: a singular instance of the _insouciant_
simplicity of these odd people.

The 9th of December was a splendid and hot day, one of the very few
we had had during our captivity. We left at noon, descending the hill
through an enormous crowd of people, who brought farewell presents,
all wishing us well. We were still under escort as prisoners of the
Dewan, who was coolly marching a troop of forty unloaded mules and
ponies, and double that number of men's loads of merchandize,
purchased during the summer in Tibet, to trade with at Dorjiling and
the Titalya fair! His impudence or stupidity was thus quite
inexplicable; treating us as prisoners, ignoring every demand of the
authorities at Dorjiling, of the Supreme Council of Calcutta, and of
the Governor-General himself; and at the same time acting as if he
were to enter the British territories on the most friendly and
advantageous footing for himself and his property, and incurring so
great an expense in all this as to prove that he was in earnest in
thinking so.

Tchebu Lama accompanied us, but we were not allowed to converse with
him. We halted at the bottom of the valley, where the Dewan invited
us to partake of tea; from this place he gave us mules* [The Tibet
mules are often as fine as the Spanish: I rode one which had
performed a journey from Choombi to Lhassa in fifteen days, with a
man and load.] or ponies to ride, and we ascended to Yankoong, a
village 3,867 feet above the sea. On the following day we crossed a
high ridge from the Ryott valley to that of the Rungmi; where we
camped at Tikbotang (alt. 3,763 feet), and, on the 11th at Gangtok
Sampoo, a few miles lower down the same valley.