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Books: The Life of George Borrow

H >> Herbert Jenkins >> The Life of George Borrow

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At Seville Borrow encountered Baron Taylor, {188a} whom he states
that he had first met at Bayonne (during the "veiled period"), and
later in Russia, beside the Bosphorus, and finally in the South of
Ireland. Than Baron Taylor there was no one for whom Borrow
entertained "a greater esteem and regard . . . There is a mystery
about him which, wherever he goes, serves not a little to increase
the sensation naturally created by his appearance and manner." {189a}
Borrow was much attracted to this mysterious personage, about whom
nothing could be asserted "with downright positiveness."

From Seville Borrow proceeded to Cordoba, accompanied by "an elderly
person, a Genoese by birth," whose acquaintance he had made and whom
he hoped later to employ in the distribution of the Testaments.
Borrow had hired a couple of miserable horses. The Genoese had not
been in the saddle for some thirty years, and he was an old man and
timid. His horse soon became aware of this, and neither whip nor
spur could persuade it to exert itself. When approaching night
rendered it necessary to make a special effort to hasten forward, the
bridle of the discontented steed had to be fastened to that of its
fellow, which was then urged forward "with spur and cudgel." Both
the Genoese and his mount protested against such drastic measures,
the one by entreaties to be permitted to dismount, the other by
attempting to fling itself down. The only notice Borrow took of
these protests was to spur and cudgel the more.

On the night of the third day the party arrived at Cordoba, and was
cordially welcomed by the Carlist innkeeper, who, although avowing
himself strictly neutral, confessed how great had been his pleasure
at welcoming the Carlists when they occupied the City a short time
before. It was at this inn that Borrow explained to the elderly
Genoese, who had indiscreetly resented his host's disrespectful
remarks about the young Queen Isabel, how he invariably managed to
preserve good relations with all sorts of factions. "My good man,"
he said, "I am invariably of the politics of the people at whose
table I sit, or beneath whose roof I sleep; at least I never say
anything which can lead them to suspect the contrary; by pursuing
which system I have more than once escaped a bloody pillow, and
having the wine I drank spiced with sublimate." {190a}

Borrow remained at Cordoba much longer than he had intended, because
of the reports that reached him of the unsafe condition of the roads.
He sent back the old Genoese with the horses, and spent the time in
thoroughly examining the town and making acquaintances among its
inhabitants. At length, after a stay of ten or eleven days,
despairing of any improvement in the state of the country, he
continued his journey in the company of a contrabandista, temporarily
retired from the smuggling trade, from whom he hired two horses for
the sum of forty-two dollars. Borrow allowed no compunction to
assail him as to the means he employed when he was thoroughly
convinced as to the worthiness of the end he had in view. To further
his projects he would cheerfully have travelled with the Pope
himself.

The journey to Madrid proved dismal in the extreme. The
contrabandista was sullen and gloomy, despite the fact that his
horses had been insured against loss and the handsome fee he was to
receive for his services. The Despenaperros in the Sierra Morena
through which Borrow had to pass, had, even in times of peace, a most
evil reputation; but by great good luck for Borrow, the local
banditti had during the previous day "committed a dreadful robbery
and murder by which they sacked 40,000 reals." {190b} They were in
all probability too busily occupied in dividing their spoil to watch
for other travellers. Another factor that was much in Borrow's
favour was a change in the weather.


"Suddenly the Lord breathed forth a frozen blast," Borrow writes,
"the severity of which was almost intolerable. No human being but
ourselves ventured forth. We traversed snow-covered plains, and
passed through villages and towns to all appearance deserted. The
robbers kept close to their caves and hovels, but the cold nearly
killed us. We reached Aranjuez late on Christmas day, and I got into
the house of an Englishman, where I swallowed nearly a pint of
brandy: {191a} it affected me no more than warm water. {191b}


Borrow arrived at Madrid on 26th December, having almost by a miracle
avoided death or capture by the human wolves that infested the
country. He took up his quarters at 16 Calle de Santiago at the
house of Maria Diaz, who was to prove so loyal a friend during many
critical periods of his work in Spain. His first care was to call
upon the British Minister, and enquire if he considered it safe to
proceed with the printing without special application to the new
Government. Mr Villiers' answer is interesting, as showing how
thoroughly he had taken Borrow under his protection.


"You obtained the permission of the Government of Isturitz," he
replied, "which was a much less liberal one than the present; I am a
witness to the promise made to you by the former Ministers, which I
consider sufficient; you had best commence and complete the work as
soon as possible without any fresh application, and should anyone
attempt to interrupt you, you have only to come to me, whom you may
command at any time." {191c}


Having saved the Bible Society 9000 reals in its paper bill alone,
{191d} Borrow proceeded to arrange for the printing. He had already
opened negotiations with Charles Wood, who was associated with
Andreas Borrego, {192a} the most fashionable printer in Madrid, who
not only had the best printing-presses in Spain, but had been
specially recommended by Isturitz. It had been tentatively arranged
that an edition of 5000 copies of the New Testament should be printed
from the version of Father Felipe Scio de San Miguel, confessor to
Ferdinand VII., without notes or commentaries, and delivered within
three months.

Remembering the advice of Isturitz, Borrow determined to entrust the
work to Borrego, including the binding. He was the Government
printer, and, furthermore, enjoyed the good opinion of Mr Villiers.
Having persuaded Borrego to reduce his price to 10 reals a sheet, he
placed the order. It was agreed that the work should be completed in
ten weeks from 20th January.

Each sheet was to be passed by Borrow. As a matter of fact he read
every word three times; but in order to insure absolute accuracy, he
engaged the services of Dr Usoz, "the first scholar in Spain," {192b}
who was to be responsible for the final revision, leaving the
question of the remuneration to the generosity of the Bible Society.
The result of all this care was that, according to Borrow the edition
exhibited scarcely one typographical error. {192c}

The question of systematic distribution had next to be considered.
After much musing and cogitation, Borrow came to the conclusion that
the only satisfactory method was for him to "ride forth from Madrid
into the wildest parts of Spain," where the word is most wanted and
where it seems next to an impossibility to introduce it, and this he
proposed to the Committee.


"I will take with me 1200 copies," he wrote, {193a} "which I will
engage to dispose of for little or much to the wild people of the
wild regions which I intend to visit; as for the rest of the edition,
it must be disposed of, if possible, in a different way--I may say
the usual way; part must be entrusted to booksellers, part to
colporteurs, and a depot must be established at Madrid. Such work is
every person's work, and to anyone may be confided the execution of
it; it is a mere affair of trade. What I wish to be employed in is
what, I am well aware, no other individual will undertake to do:
namely, to scatter the Word upon the mountains, amongst the valleys
and the inmost recesses of the worst and most dangerous parts of
Spain, where the people are more fierce, fanatic and, in a word,
Carlist."


In the same letter Borrow shows how thoroughly he understood his own
character when he wrote:


"I shall not feel at all surprised should it [the plan] be
disapproved of all-together; but I wish it to be understood that in
that event I could do nothing further than see the work through the
press, as I am confident that whatever ardour and zeal I at present
feel in the cause would desert me immediately, and that I should
neither be able nor willing to execute anything which might be
suggested. I wish to engage in nothing which would not allow me to
depend entirely on myself. It would be heart-breaking to me to
remain at Madrid expending the Society's money, with almost the
certainty of being informed eventually by the booksellers and their
correspondents that the work has no sale. In a word, to make sure
that some copies find their way among the people, I must be permitted
to carry them to the people myself."


He goes on to inform Mr Brandram that in anticipation of the
acquiescence of the Committee in his schemes, he has purchased, for
about 12 pounds, one of the smuggler's horses, which he has preferred
to a mule, on account of the expense of the popular hybrid, and also
because of its enormous appetite, to satisfy which two pecks of
barley and a proportionate amount of straw are required each twenty-
four hours, as the beast must be fed every four hours, day and night.
Thus the members of the Committee learned something about the ways of
the mule.

The response to this suggestion was a resolution passed by the Sub-
Committee for General Purposes, by which Borrow was permitted to
enter into correspondence with the principal booksellers and other
persons favourable to the dissemination of the Scriptures. In a
covering letter {194a} Mr Brandram very pertinently enquired, "Can
the people in these wilds read?" Whilst not wishing to put a final
negative to the proposal, the Secretary asked if there were no middle
course. Could Borrow not establish a depot at some principal place,
and from it make excursions occupying two or three days each,
"instead of devoting yourself wholly to the wild people."

Borrow assured Mr Brandram that he had misunderstood. The care of
"the wild people" was only to be incidental on his visits to towns
and villages to establish depots or agencies. "On my way," he wrote,
"I intended to visit the secret and secluded spots amongst the rugged
hills and mountains, and to talk to the people, after my manner, of
Christ." {194b}

It was on 3rd April that Borrow had received the letter from Earl
Street authorising him "to undertake the tour suggested . . . for the
purpose of circulating the Spanish New Testament in some of the
principal cities of Spain." He was requested to write as frequently
as possible, giving an account of his adventures. At the same time
Mr Brandram wrote: "You will perceive by the Resolution that nearly
all your requests are complied with. You have authority to go forth
with your horses, and may you have a prosperous journey . . . Pray
for wisdom to discern between presumptuousness and want of Faith.
{195a}

The printing of the 5000 copies of the New Testament in Spanish was
completed early in April, but there was considerable delay over the
binding. The actual date of publication was 1st May. The work had
been well done, and was "allowed by people who have perused it, and
with no friendly feeling, to be one of the most correct works that
have ever issued from the press in Spain, and to be an exceedingly
favourable specimen of typography and paper." {195b}

In addition to the contrabandista's horse, Borrow had acquired "a
black Andalusian stallion of great size and strength, and capable of
performing a journey of a hundred leagues in a week's time." {195c}
In spite of his unbroken state, Borrow decided to purchase the
animal, relying upon "a cargo of bibles" to reduce him to obedience.
It was with this black Andalusian that he created a sensation by
riding about Madrid, "with a Russian skin for a saddle, and without
stirrups. Altogether making so conspicuous a figure that [the
Marques de] Santa Coloma hesitated, and it needed all his courage to
be seen riding with him. At this period Borrow spent a good deal of
money and lived very freely (i.e., luxuriously) in Spain. From the
point of view of the Marques, a Spanish Roman Catholic, Borrow was
excessively bigoted, and fond of attacking Roman Catholics and
Catholicism. He evidently, however, liked him as a companion; but he
says Borrow never, as far as he saw or could learn, spoke of religion
to his Gypsy friends, and that he soon noticed his difference of
attitude towards them. He was often going to the British Embassy,
and he thinks was considered a great bore there." {195d}

The unanimous advice of Borrow's friends, Protestant and Roman
Catholic, was "that for the present I should proceed with the utmost
caution, but without concealing the object of my mission." {196a} He
was to avoid offending people's prejudices and endeavour everywhere
to keep on good terms with the clergy, "at least one-third of whom
are known to be anxious for the dissemination of the Word of God,
though at the same time unwilling to separate themselves from the
discipline and ceremonials of Rome." {196b}

Thus equipped with sage counsel, Borrow was just about to start upon
his journey into the North, when he found it necessary to dismiss his
servant owing to misconduct. This caused delay. Through Mr O'Shea,
the banker, he got to know Antonio Buchini, the Greek of
Constantinople, who, of all the strange characters Borrow had met he
considered "the most surprising." {196c} Antonio's vices were
sufficiently obvious to discourage anyone from attempting to discover
his virtues. He loved change, quarrelled with everybody, masters,
mistresses, and fellow-servants. Borrow engaged him; but looked to
the future with misgiving. Antonio unquestionably had his bad
points; yet he was a treasure compared with the Spaniard whom he
succeeded. This man was much given to drink and was always engaged
in some quarrel. He drew his terrible knife, such as all Spaniards
carry, upon all who offended him. On one occasion Borrow saved from
his wrath a poor maid-servant who had incurred his ire by burning a
herring she was toasting for him. Antonio's virtues comprised an
unquestioned honesty and devotion, and on the whole he was a
desirable servant in a country where such virtues were extremely
rare.

It was not until 15th May that Borrow, accompanied by Antonio, was
able to get away from Madrid. A few days previously he had
contracted "a severe cold which terminated in a shrieking,
disagreeable cough." This, following on a fortnight's attack of
influenza, proved difficult to shake off. Finding himself scarcely
able to stand, he at length appealed to a barber-surgeon, who drew 16
oz. of blood, assuring his patient that on the following day he would
be well enough to start.

That same evening Mr Villiers sent round to Borrow's lodgings
informing him that he had decided to help him by every means in his
power. He announced his intention of purchasing a large number of
the Testaments, and despatching them to the various British Consuls
in Spain, with instructions "to employ all the means which their
official situation should afford them to circulate the books in
question, and to assure their being noticed." {197a} They were also
to render every assistance in their power to Borrow "as a friend of
Mr Villiers, and a person in the success of whose enterprise he
himself took the warmest interest." {197b} Mr Villiers' interest in
Borrow's mission seems to have led him into a diplomatic
indiscretion. Borrow himself confesses that he could scarcely
believe his ears. Although assured of the British Minister's
friendly attitude, he "could never expect that he would come forward
in so noble, and to say the least of it, considering his high
diplomatic situation, so bold and decided a manner." {197c} This act
of friendliness becomes a personal tribute to Borrow, when it is
remembered that at first Mr Villiers had been by no means well
disposed towards the Bible Society.

Before leaving Madrid, Borrow had circularised all the principal
booksellers, offering to supply the New Testament at fifteen reals a
copy, the actual cost price; but he was not sanguine as to the
result, for he found the Spaniard "short-sighted and . . . so utterly
unacquainted with the rudiments of business." {198a} Advertisements
had been inserted in all the principal newspapers stating that the
booksellers of Madrid were now in a position to supply the New
Testament in Spanish, unencumbered by obscuring notes and comments.
Borrow also provided for an advertisement to be inserted each week
during his absence, which he anticipated would be about five months.
After that he knew not what would happen--there was always China.



CHAPTER XIII: MAY-OCTOBER 1837



The prediction of the surgeon-barber was fulfilled; by the next
morning the fever and cough had considerably abated, although the
patient was still weak from loss of blood. This, however, did not
hinder him from mounting his black Andalusian, and starting upon his
initial journey of distribution. On arriving at Salamanca, his first
objective, he immediately sought out the principal bookseller and
placed with him copies of the New Testament. He also inserted an
advertisement in the local newspaper, stating that the volume was the
only guide to salvation; at the same time he called attention to the
great pecuniary sacrifices that the Bible Society was making in order
to proclaim Christ crucified. This advertisement he caused to be
struck off in considerable numbers as bills and posted in various
parts of the town, and he even went so far as to affix one to the
porch of the church. He also distributed them as he progressed
through the villages. {199a}

From Salamanca (10th June) Borrow journeyed to Valladolid, and from
thence to Leon, {200a} (a hotbed of Carlism), where the people were
ignorant and brutal and refused to the stranger a glass of water,
unless he were prepared to pay for it. At Leon he was seized by a
fever that prostrated him for a week. He also experienced marked
antagonism from the clergy, who threatened every direful consequence
to whosoever read or purchased "the accursed books" which he brought.
A more serious evidence of their displeasure was shown by the action
they commenced in the ecclesiastical court against the bookseller
whom Borrow had arranged with to act as agent for his Testaments.
The bookseller himself did not mend matters by fixing upon the doors
of the cathedral itself one of the advertisements that he had
received with the books.

When sufficiently recovered to travel, Borrow proceeded to Astorga,
which he reached with the utmost difficulty owing to bad roads and
the fierce heat.


"We were compelled to take up our abode," he writes, {200b} "in a
wretched hovel full of pigs' vermin and misery, and from this place I
write, for this morning I felt myself unable to proceed on my
journey, being exhausted with illness, fatigue and want of food, for
scarcely anything is to be obtained; but I return God thanks and
glory for being permitted to undergo these crosses and troubles for
His Word's sake. I would not exchange my present situation,
unenviable as some may think it, for a throne."


Thus Borrow wrote when burning with fever, after having just been
told to vacate his room at the posada, and having his luggage flung
into the yard to make room for the occupants of the "waggon" from
Madrid to Coruna.

From Astorga he proceeded by way of Puerto de Manzanal, Bembibre,
Cacabelos, Villafranca, Puerto de Fuencebadon and Nogales, "through
the wildest mountains and wildernesses" to Lugo.

Owing to the unsafety of the roads, it was customary for travellers
to attach themselves to the Grand Post, which was always guarded by
an escort. At Nogales Borrow joined the mail courier; but as a rule
he was too independent, too much in a hurry, and too indifferent to
danger to wait for such protection against the perils of the robber-
infested roads. He has given the following graphic account "of the
grand post from Madrid to Coruna, attended by a considerable escort,
and an immense number of travellers . . . We were soon mounted and in
the street, amidst a confused throng of men and quadrupeds. The
light of a couple of flambeaus, which were borne before the courier,
shone on the arms of several soldiers, seemingly drawn up on either
side of the road; the darkness, however, prevented me from
distinguishing objects very clearly. The courier himself was mounted
on a little shaggy pony; before and behind him were two immense
portmanteaus, or leather sacks, the ends of which nearly touched the
ground. For about a quarter of an hour there was much hubbub,
shouting, and trampling, at the end of which period the order was
given to proceed. Scarcely had we left the village when the
flambeaus were extinguished, and we were left in almost total
darkness. In this manner we proceeded for several hours, up hill and
down dale, but generally at a very slow pace. The soldiers who
escorted us from time to time sang patriotic songs . . . At last the
day began to break, and I found myself amidst a train of two or three
hundred people, some on foot, but the greater part mounted, either on
mules or the pony mares: I could not distinguish a single horse
except my own and Antonio's. A few soldiers were thinly scattered
along the road." {201a}

After about a week's stay at Lugo, Borrow again attached himself to
the Grand Post; but tiring of its slow and deliberate progress, he
decided to push on alone, and came very near to falling a prey to the
banditti. He was suddenly confronted by two of the fraternity, who
presented their carbines, "which they probably intended to discharge
into my body, but they took fright at the noise of Antonio's horse,
who was following a little way behind." {202a}

The night was spent at Betanzos, where the black Andalusian was
stricken with "a deep, hoarse cough." Remembering a prophetic remark
that had been made by a roadside acquaintance to the effect that "the
man must be mad who brings a horse to Galicia, and doubly so he who
brings an entero," Borrow, determined to have the animal bled, sent
for a farrier, meanwhile rubbing down his steed with a quart of anis
brandy. The farrier demanded an ounce of gold for the operation,
which decided Borrow to perform it himself. With a large fleam that
he possessed, he twice bled the Andalusian, to the astonishment of
the discomfited farrier, and saved its valuable life, also an ounce
of gold. Next day he and Antonio walked to Coruna, leading their
horses.

At Coruna were five hundred copies of the New Testament that had been
sent on from Madrid. So far Borrow had himself disposed of sixty-
five copies, irrespective of those sold at Lugo and other places by
means of the advertisement. These books were all sold at prices
ranging from 10 to 12 reals each. Borrow made a special point of
this, "to give a direct lie to the assertion" that the Bible Society,
having no vent for the Bibles and New Testaments it printed, was
forced either to give them away or sell them by auction, when they
were purchased as waste paper.

The condition of the roads at that period was so bad, on account of
robbers and Carlists, that it was forbidden to anyone to travel along
the thoroughfare leading to Santiago unless in company with the mail
courier and his escort of soldiers. Unfortunately for Borrow his
black Andalusian was not of a companionable disposition, and to bring
him near other horses was to invite a fierce contest. On the rare
occasions that he did travel with the Grand Post, Borrow was
frequently involved in difficulties on account of the entero's
unsociable nature; but as he was deeply attached to the noble beast,
he retained him and suffered dangers rather than give up the
companion of many an adventure.

Some idea may be obtained of the state of rural Spain in 1837, when
the highways teemed with "patriots" bent upon robbing friend and foe
alike and afterwards assassinating or mutilating their victims, from
a story that Borrow tells of how a viper-catcher, who was engaged in
pursuing his calling in the neighbourhood of Orense, fell into the
hands of these miscreants, who robbed and stripped him. They then
pinioned his hands behind him and drew over his head the mouth of the
bag containing the LIVING vipers, which they fastened round his neck
and listened with satisfaction to the poor wretch's cries. The
reptiles stung their victim to madness, and after having run raving
through several villages he eventually fell dead. {203a}

Making Coruna his headquarters, Borrow proceeded to Santiago,
"travelling with the courier or weekly post," and from thence to
Padron, Pontevedra, and Vigo. At Vigo he was apprehended as a spy,
but immediately released. It was whilst at Santiago that he repeated
an experiment he had previously made at Valladolid.

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