Books: The Life of Kit Carson

E >> Edward S. Ellis >> The Life of Kit Carson

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The object of Fremont's second exploration was to connect the
survey of the previous year with those of Commander Wilkes on the
Pacific coast. The first objective point was the Great Salt Lake
of Utah, of which very little was known at that time.

Carson was sent back to the fort to procure a number of mules.
He did as directed and rejoined Fremont at St. Vrain's Fort. The
region traversed by these explorers is so well known today that it
is hard to realize what a terra incognita it was but a short time
since. Perhaps it will be most instructive at this point to quote
the words of the great Pathfinder himself. The party arrived on the
21st of August on the Bear River, one of the principal tributaries
of Great Salt Lake. The narrative of Fremont proceeds:

"We were now entering a region, which for us possessed a strange
and extraordinary interest. We were upon the waters of the famous
lake which forms a salient point among the remarkable geographical
features of the country, and around which the vague and superstitious
accounts of the trappers had thrown a delightful obscurity, which
we anticipated pleasure in dispelling, but which, in the meantime,
left a crowded field for the exercise of our imagination.

"In our occasional conversations with the few old hunters who had
visited the region, it had been a subject of frequent speculation;
and the wonders which they related were not the less agreeable
because they were highly exaggerated and impossible.

"Hitherto this lake had been seen only by trappers, who were wandering
through the country in search of new beaver streams, caring very
little for geography; its islands had never been visited; and none
were to be found who had entirely made the circuit of its shores,
and no instrumental observations, or geographical survey of any
description, had ever been made anywhere in the neighboring region.
It was generally supposed that it had no visible outlet; but,
among the trappers, including those in my own camp, were many who
believed that somewhere on its surface was a terrible whirlpool,
through which its waters found their way to the ocean by some
subterranean communication. All these things had been made a frequent
subject of discussion in our desultory conversations around the
fires at night; and my own mind had become tolerably well filled
with their indefinite pictures, and insensibly colored with their
romantic descriptions, which, in the pleasure of excitement, I was
well disposed to believe, and half expected to realize.

"In about six miles' travel from our encampment we reached one of
the points in our journey to which we had always looked forward
with great interest -- the famous Beer Springs, which, on account
of the effervescing gas and acid taste, had received their name
from the voyageurs and trappers of the country, who, in the midst
of their rude and hard lives, are fond of finding some fancied
resemblance to the luxuries they rarely have the good fortune to
enjoy.

"Although somewhat disappointed in the expectations which various
descriptions had led me to form of unusual beauty of situation
and scenery, I found it altogether a place of very great interest;
and a traveller for the first time in a volcanic region remains in
a constant excitement, and at every step is arrested by something
remarkable and new. There is a confusion of interesting objects
gathered together in a small space. Around the place of encampment
the Beer Springs were numerous but, as far as we could ascertain,
were entirely confined to that locality in the bottom. In the bed
of the river in front, for a space of several hundred yards, they
were very abundant; the effervescing gas rising up and agitating
the water in countless bubbling columns. In the vicinity round about
were numerous springs of an entirely different and equally marked
mineral character. In a rather picturesque spot, about 1,300 yards
below our encampment and immediately on the river bank, is the
most remarkable spring of the place. In an opening on the rock, a
white column of scattered water is thrown up, in form, like a jet
d'eau, to a variable height of about three feet, and, though it is
maintained in a constant supply, its greatest height is attained
only at regular intervals, according to the action of the force
below. It is accompanied by a subterranean noise, which, together
with the motion of the water, makes very much the impression of a
steamboat in motion; and, without knowing that it had been already
previously so called, we gave to it the name of the Steamboat
Spring. The rock through which it is forced is slightly raised in
a convex manner, and gathered at the opening into an urn mouthed
form, and is evidently formed by continued deposition from the
water, and colored bright red by oxide of iron.

"It is a hot spring, and the water has a pungent, disagreeable
metallic taste, leaving a burning effect on the tongue. Within
perhaps two yards of the jet d'eau, is a small hole of about an inch
in diameter, through which, at regular intervals, escapes a blast
of hot air with a light wreath of smoke, accompanied by a regular
noise.

"As they approached the lake, they passed over a country of bold
and striking scenery, and through several 'gates,' as they called
certain narrow valleys. The 'standing rock' is a huge column,
occupying the centre of one of these passes. It fell from a height
of perhaps 3,000 feet, and happened to remain in its present upright
position.

"At last, on the 6th of September, the object for which their eyes
had long been straining was brought to view.

"September 6. -- This time we reached the butte without any
difficulty; and ascending to the summit, immediately at our feet
beheld the object of our anxious search, the waters of the Inland
Sea, stretching in still and solitary grandeur, far beyond the limit
of our vision. It was one of the great points of the exploration;
and as we looked eagerly over the lake in the first emotions of
excited pleasure, I am doubtful if the followers of Balboa felt
more enthusiasm when, from the heights of the Andes, they saw for
the first time the great Western Ocean. It was certainly a magnificent
object, and a noble terminus to this part of our expedition;
and to travellers so long shut up among mountain ranges, a sudden
view over the expanse of silent waters had in it something sublime.
Several large islands raised their high rocky heads out of the
waves; but whether or not they were timbered was still left to
our imagination, as the distance was too great to determine if the
dark hues upon them were woodland or naked rock. During the day the
clouds had been gathering black over the mountains to the westward,
and while we were looking, a storm burst down with sudden fury upon
the lake, and entirely hid the islands from our view.

"On the edge of the stream a favorable spot was selected in a grove,
and felling the timber, we made a strong corral, or horse pen, for
the animals, and a little fort for the people who were to remain.
We were now probably in the country of the Utah Indians, though
none reside upon the lake. The India rubber boat was repaired with
prepared cloth and gum, and filled with air, in readiness for the
next day.

"The provisions which Carson had brought with him being now exhausted,
and our stock reduced to a small quantity of roots, I determined
to retain with me only a sufficient number of men for the execution
of our design; and accordingly seven were sent back to Fort Hall,
under the guidance of Francois Lajeunesse, who, having been for
many years a trapper in the country, was an experienced mountaineer.

"We formed now but a small family. With Mr. Preuss and myself,
Carson, Bernier, and Basil Lajeunesse had been selected for the
boat expedition -- the first ever attempted on this interior sea;
and Badau, with Derosier, and Jacob (the colored man), were to be
left in charge of the camp. We were favored with most delightful
weather. Tonight there was a brilliant sunset of golden orange and
green, which left the western sky clear and beautifully pure; but
clouds in the east made me lose an occulation. The summer frogs
were singing around us, and the evening was very pleasant, with
a temperature of 60 degrees -- a night of a more southern autumn.
For our supper, we had yampak, the most agreeably flavored of the
roots, seasoned by a small fat duck, which had come in the way
of Jacob's rifle. Around our fire tonight were many speculations
on what tomorrow would bring forth; and in our busy conjectures
we fancied that we should find every one of the large islands
a tangled wilderness of trees and shrubbery, teeming with game of
every description that the neighboring region afforded, and which
the foot of a white man or Indian had never violated. Frequently,
during the day, clouds had rested on the summits of their lofty
mountains, and we believed that we should find clear streams and
springs of fresh water; and we indulged in anticipations of the
luxurious repasts with which we were to indemnify ourselves for
past privations. Neither, in our discussions, were the whirlpool
and other mysterious dangers forgotten, which Indian and hunter's
stories attributed to this unexplored lake. The men had discovered
that, instead of being strongly sewed, (like that of the preceding
year, which had so triumphantly rode the canons of the Upper
Great Platte), our present boat was only pasted together in a very
insecure manner, the maker having been allowed so little time in the
construction that he was obliged to crowd the labor of two months
into several days. The insecurity of the boat was sensibly felt
by us; and mingled with the enthusiasm and excitement that we all
felt at the prospect of an undertaking which had never before been
accomplished was a certain impression of danger, sufficient to give
a serious character to our conversation. The momentary view which
had been had of the lake the day before, its great extent and rugged
islands, dimly seen amidst the dark waters in the obscurity of the
sudden storm, were well calculated to heighten the idea of undefined
danger with which the lake was generally associated."

"September 8. -- A calm, clear day, with a sunrise temperature
of 41 degrees. In view of our present enterprise, a part of the
equipment of the boat had been made to consist of three airtight
bags, about three feet long, and capable each of containing five
gallons. These had been filled with water the night before, and
were now placed in the boat, with our blankets and instruments,
consisting of a sextant, telescope, spyglass, thermometer, and
barometer.

"In the course of the morning we discovered that two of the cylinders
leaked so much as to require one man constantly at the bellows, to
keep them sufficiently full of air to support the boat. Although
we had made a very early start, we loitered so much on the way --
stopping every now and then, and floating silently along, to get
a shot at a goose or a duck -- that it was late in the day when he
reached the outlet. The river here divided into several branches,
filled with fluvials, and so very shallow that it was with difficulty
we could get the boat along, being obliged to get out and wade.
We encamped on a low point among rushes and young willows, where
there was a quantity of driftwood, which served for our fires. The
evening was mild and clear; we made a pleasant bed of the young
willows; and geese and ducks enough had been killed for an abundant
supper at night, and for breakfast next morning. The stillness of
the night was enlivened by millions of waterfowl.

"September. 9. -- The day was clear and calm; the thermometer at
sunrise at 49 degrees. As is usual with the trappers on the eve of
any enterprise, our people had made dreams, and theirs happened to
be a bad one -- one which always preceded evil -- and consequently
they looked very gloomy this morning; but we hurried through our
breakfast, in order to make an early start, and have all the day
before us for our adventure. The channel in a short distance became
so shallow that our navigation was at an end, being merely a sheet
of soft mud, with a few inches of water, and sometimes none at
all, forming the low water shore of the lake. All this place was
absolutely covered with flocks of screaming plover. We took off
our clothes, and, getting overboard, commenced dragging the boat
-- making, by this operation, a very curious trail, and a very
disagreeable smell in stirring up the mud, as we sank above the
knee at every step. The water here was still fresh, with only an
insipid and disagreeable taste, probably derived from the bed of
fetid mud. After proceeding in this way about a mile, we came to
a small black ridge on the bottom, beyond which the water became
suddenly salt, beginning gradually to deepen, and the bottom was
sandy and firm. It was a remarkable division, separating the fresh
water of the rivers from the briny water of the lake, which was
entirely saturated with common salt. Pushing our little vessel
across the narrow boundary, we sprang on board, and at length were
afloat on the waters of the unknown sea.

"We did not steer for the mountainous islands, but directed our
course towards a lower one, which it had been decided we should
first visit, the summit of which was formed like the crater at
the upper end of Bear River Valley. So long as we could touch the
bottom with our paddles, we were very gay; but gradually, as the
water deepened, we became more still in our frail bateau of gum
cloth distended with air, and with pasted seams. Although the day
was very calm, there was a considerable swell on the lake; and
there were white patches of foam on the surface, which were slowly
moving to the southward, indicating the set of a current in that
direction, and recalling the recollection of the whirlpool stories.
The water continued to deepen as we advanced; the lake becoming
almost transparently clear, of an extremely beautiful bright green
color; and the spray which was thrown into the boat and over our
clothes, was directly converted into a crust of common salt, which
covered also our hands and arms. 'Captain,' said Carson, who for
sometime had been looking suspiciously at some whitening appearances
outside the nearest islands, 'what are those yonder? -- won't you
just take a look with the glass?' We ceased paddling for a moment,
and found them to be the caps of the waves that were beginning to
break under the force of a strong breeze that was coming up the
lake. The form of the boat seemed to be an admirable one, and it
rode on the waves like a water bird; but, at the same time, it was
extremely slow in its progress. When we were a little more than half
way across the reach, two of the divisions between the cylinders
gave way, and it required the constant use of the bellows to keep
in a sufficient quantity of air. For a long time we scarcely seemed
to approach our island, but gradually we worked across the rougher
sea of the open channel, into the smoother water under the lee of
the island, and began to discover that what we took for a long row
of pelicans, ranged on the beach, were only low cliffs whitened
with salt by the spray of the waves; and about noon we reached the
shore, the transparency of the water enabling us to see the bottom
at a considerable depth.

"The cliffs and masses of rock along the shore were whitened by an
incrustation of salt where the waves dashed up against them; and
the evaporating water, which had been left in holes and hollows on
the surface of the rocks, was covered with a crust of salt about
one eighth of an inch in thickness.

"Carrying with us the barometer and other instruments, in the
afternoon we ascended to the highest point of the island -- a bare,
rocky peak, 800 feet above the lake. Standing on the summit, we
enjoyed an extended view of the lake, inclosed in a basin of rugged
mountains, which sometimes left marshy flats and extensive bottoms
between them and the shore, and in other places came directly down
into the water with bold and precipitous bluffs.

"As we looked over the vast expanse of water spread out beneath
us, and strained our eyes along the silent shores over which hung
so much doubt and uncertainty, and which were so full of interest
to us, I could hardly repress the almost irresistible desire to
continue our exploration; but the lengthening snow on the mountains
was a plain indication of the advancing season, and our frail linen
boat appeared so insecure that I was unwilling to trust our lives
to the uncertainties of the lake. I therefore unwillingly resolved
to terminate our survey here, and remain satisfied for the present
with what we had been able to add to the unknown geography of
the region. We felt pleasure also in remembering that we were the
first who, in the traditionary annals of the country, had visited
the islands, and broken, with the cheerful sound of human voices,
the long solitude of the place.

"I accidentally left on the summit the brass cover to the object
end of my spyglass and as it will probably remain there undisturbed
by Indians, it will furnish matter of speculation to some future
traveller. In our excursions about the island, we did not meet with
any kind of animal: a magpie, and another larger bird, probably
attracted by the smoke of our fire, paid us a visit from the shore,
and were the only living things seen during our stay. The rock
constituting the cliffs along the shore where we were encamped, is
a talcous rock, or steatite, with brown spar.

"At sunset, the temperature was 70 degrees. We had arrived just in
time to obtain a meridian altitude of the sun, and other observations
were obtained this evening, which placed our camp in latitude 41
degrees 10' 42" and longitude 112 degrees 21' 05" from Greenwich.
From a discussion of the barometrical observations made during our
stay on the shores of the lake, we have adopted 4,200 feet for its
elevation above the Gulf of Mexico. In the first disappointment
we felt from the dissipation of our dream of the fertile islands,
I called this Disappointment Island.

"Out of the driftwood, we made ourselves pleasant little lodges,
open to the water, and, after having kindled large fires to excite
the wonder of any straggling savage on the lake shores, lay down,
for the first time in a long journey, in perfect security; no
one thinking about his arms. The evening was extremely bright and
pleasant; but the wind rose during the night, and the waves began
to break heavily on the shore, making our island tremble. I had not
expected in our inland journey to hear the roar of an ocean surf;
and the strangeness of our situation, and the excitement we felt
in the associated interests of the place, made this one of the most
interesting nights I remember during our long expedition.

"In the morning, the surf was breaking heavily on the shore, and
we were up early. The lake was dark and agitated, and we hurried
through our scanty breakfast, and embarked -- having first filled
one of the buckets with water from which it was intended to make
salt. The sun had risen by the time we were ready to start; and it
was blowing a strong gale of wind, almost directly off the shore,
and raising a considerable sea, in which our boat strained very
much. It roughened as we got away from the island, and it required
all the efforts of the men to make any head against the wind and
sea; the gale rising with the sun; and there was danger of being
blown into one of the open reaches beyond the island. At the distance
of half a mile from the beach, the depth of water was sixteen feet,
with a clay bottom; but, as the working of the boat was very severe
labor, and during the operation of sounding, it was necessary to
cease paddling, during which the boat lost considerable way, I was
unwilling to discourage the men, and reluctantly gave up my intention
of ascertaining the depth and character of the bed. There was a
general shout in the boat when we found ourselves in one fathom,
and we soon after landed on a low point of mud, where we unloaded
the boat, and carried the baggage to firmer ground."

CHAPTER XXIII.

The Return -- Suffering for Food -- A Royal Feast -- On the Lewis
Fork -- Fort Hall -- Division of the Party -- Arrival at Dalles
-- The Sierra Nevada -- Preparations for the Passage Through the
Mountains -- Fremont's Account.

The explorers remained in camp the next day and boiled down some
of the water from the lake, thereby obtaining considerable salt.
The following morning was clear and beautiful and they returned by
the same route, ascending the valley of Bear River toward the north.

The expected Fitzpatrick and the provisions did not show themselves
and the party began to suffer for food. When their situation became
serious, Fremont permitted a horse to be killed and then all enjoyed
one of their old fashioned feasts.

But this supply could not last long, and still they failed to meet
their expected friends. After a time they encountered an Indian who
had killed an antelope, which they quickly purchased and another
feast made every heart glad. By way of dessert, a messenger galloped
into camp with the news that Fitzpatrick was close at hand with an
abundant supply of provisions.

The next morning the two parties united and continued the journey
together. After leaving the Bear River Valley they crossed over to
Lewis's Fork of the Columbia. At night the camp fires of the Indian
twinkled like so many stars along the mountain side; but they were
all friendly and the tired explorers slept peacefully.

Pushing onward they reached the upper waters of Lewis's Fork,
where snow began to fall. However, they were quite near Fort Hall
and they therefore went into camp, while Fremont rode to the fort
and procured several horses and oxen.

The weather continued severe, but Fremont determined to push on,
despite the hardships which he knew awaited them all. As a matter
of prudence, however, he sent back eleven of his men, leaving about
twenty with which he pursued his journey down the river valley in
the direction of the Columbia. The Dalles was reached in safety
where Kit Carson was left in command of the party, while Fremont with
a few companions pushed on to Vancouver Island, where he procured
some provisions. On his return, the whole party united and made
their way to Klamath Lake, in what was then Oregon Territory. When
their observations were completed, they took up their march in the
direction of California.

After a long and wearisome journey, attended by much suffering for
the lack of food, they came in sight of the Sierra Nevada Mountains,
which were seen to be covered with snow. The men were in a sorry
plight. The provisions were nearly gone; they could not turn back,
and there seemed but two alternatives before them: to push on through
the mountains or remain where they were and starve to death. Such
men were not the ones to fold their hands and lie down in helpless
despair. Accordingly, they made their preparations for the terrible
venture.

The snow was so deep that it was impossible to get forward without
the aid of snowshoes. Devoting themselves to the manufacture of these
indispensable articles, a few were sent ahead to learn how far it
was necessary to break a path for the animals. After a laborious
passage, it was found that nine miles would have to be prepared in
that fashion. Carson was with this advance and when they halted,
he saw in the distance the green Sacramento Valley. Although nearly
twenty years had passed since he visited that section, he recognized
it at once. Away beyond towered the white peaks of the Coast Range.
Carson was the only man in the party who really knew where they
were.

This passage of Fremont and his men through the Sierra Nevada
Mountains is one of the most extraordinary achievements in American
history. Carson himself took such a prominent part in it, that it
seems only just that Fremont's thrilling account should be quoted.

"The people were unusually silent; for every man knew that our
enterprise was hazardous, and the issue doubtful.

"The snow deepened rapidly, and it soon became necessary to break
a road. For this service, a party of ten was formed, mounted on
the strongest horses; each man in succession opening the road on
foot, or on horseback, until himself and his horse became fatigued,
when he stepped aside; and, the remaining number passing ahead, he
took his station in the rear.

"The camp had been all the day occupied in endeavoring to ascend
the hill, but only the best horses had succeeded; the animals,
generally, not having sufficient strength to bring themselves
up without the packs; and all the line of road between this and
the springs was strewed with camp stores and equipage, and horses
floundering in snow. I therefore immediately encamped on the ground
with my own mess, which was in advance, and directed Mr. Fitzpatrick
to encamp at the springs, and send all the animals, in charge of
Tabeau, with a strong guard, back to the place where they had been
pastured the night before. Here was a small spot of level ground,
protected on one side by the mountain, and on the other sheltered
by a little ridge of rock. It was an open grove of pines, which
assimilated in size to the grandeur of the mountain, being frequently
six feet in diameter.

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