Books: The Life of Kit Carson
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Edward S. Ellis >> The Life of Kit Carson
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The explorers proceeded at a leisurely pace that day and having
gone into camp, observed three Indians drawing near, one of whom
was a boy about a dozen years of age. They were Cheyennes that had
been out among the Pawnees to steal horses, but having met with
no success, were returning home. Catching sight of the white men,
they unhesitatingly entered camp, confident of being treated well,
as of course proved to be the case. After supper one of the warriors
drew a rude but correct map of the country around them, and gave
it to Fremont.
On the first of July, while riding over a delightful prairie country,
on the right bank of the river, a herd of buffaloes, numbering
nearly a thousand, came up from the water and began slowly crossing
the plain, cropping the grass as they went. As the prairie was
three miles broad only, a fine opportunity was given the hunters
to charge before the animals could scatter among the hills.
The fleetest horses were quickly saddled and Carson, Fremont, and
Maxwell prepared for the chase. By that time the herd was a half
mile away and they did not notice the hunters until they were within
three hundred yards. Then followed an agitation of the animals,
quickly followed by their precipitate flight. The horses dashed after
them. A crowd of bulls brought up the rear, they having stationed
themselves there to defend the females. Every once in a while they
would whirl about and stare, snorting at the horsemen, as if they
had made up their minds to fight; but when the hunters came nigher,
they turned about and plunged after the herd. Describing the exciting
incident, Fremont wrote;
"In a few moments, during which we had been quickening our pace, we
were going over the ground like a hurricane. When at about thirty
yards we gave the usual shout and broke into the herd. We entered
on the side, the mass giving away in every direction in their
heedless course. Many of the bulls, less fleet than the cows, paying
no heed to the ground, and occupied solely with the hunters, were
precipitated to the earth with great force, rolling over and over
with the violence of the shock, and hardly distinguishable in the
dust. We separated, on entering, each singling out his game.
"My horse was a trained hunter, famous in the west under the name
of Proveau, and with his eyes flashing and the foam flying from his
mouth, he sprang on after the cow like a tiger. In a few moments
he brought me alongside of her. Rising in the stirrups, I fired,
at the distance of a yard, the ball entering at the termination
of the long hair, passing near the heart. She fell headlong at
the report of the gun. Checking my horse, I looked around for my
companions.
"At a little distance Kit was on the ground engaged in tying his
horse to the horns of a cow, which he was preparing to cut up.
Among the scattered band at some distance, I caught a glimpse of
Maxwell. While I was looking, a light wreath of white smoke curled
away from his gun, from which I was too far to hear the report.
Nearer, and between me and the hills, toward which they were
directing their course, was the body of the herd. Giving my horse
the rein, we dashed after them. A thick cloud of dust hung upon
their rear, which filled my mouth and eyes and nearly smothered me.
In the midst of this I could see nothing, and the buffaloes were
not distinguishable until within thirty feet. They crowded together
more densely still, as I came upon them, and rushed along in such
a compact body that I could not obtain an entrance, the horse almost
leaping upon them.
"In a few moments the mass divided to the right and left, the horns
clattering with a noise heard above everything else, and my horse
darted into the opening. Five or six bulls charged on us as we
dashed along the line, but were left far behind. Singling out a
cow, I gave her my fire but struck too high. She gave a tremendous
leap and scoured on swifter than before. I reined up my horse,
and the band swept on like a torrent, and left the place quiet and
clear. Our chase had led us into dangerous ground. A prairie dog
village, so thickly settled that there were three or four holes
in twenty yards square, occupied the whole bottom for nearly two
miles in length."
The stirring buffalo hunt ended, the company advanced over the
prairie for more than twenty miles, and encamped on the banks of
a stream, where they enjoyed a fine feast on choice bison steaks.
While they were thus employed, the wolves were attracted thither by
the smell of broiling meat and prowled around camp, licking their
chops, impatient for the time when they would be permitted to gorge
themselves upon what should be left.
For several days there was little variation in the experience of
the explorers, and no special incident took place. At the junction
of the north and south fork of the Platte, Fremont, who wished to
explore the south branch and to secure some astronomical observations,
set out with nine men intending to advance to St. Vrain's fort,
where he was hopeful of obtaining some mules. The rest of the party
followed the north fork to fort Laramie, where it was agreed they
would wait for the others to join them.
Fremont's experience in going up the south branch was in strong
contrast to the pleasant scenes of the previous. It was midsummer
and the weather was suffocatingly hot. Fierce storms of wind and
gusts of rain swept the country, while the bisons were everywhere.
They literally numbered hundreds of thousands, and, look in whatsoever
direction the men chose, they were sure to see the huge creatures
cropping the grass or lumbering across the prairie.
On the fourth day a band of three hundred mounted Indians suddenly
appeared. The chief proved to be an old acquaintance of Maxwell
and showed genuine pleasure in meeting him. They shook hands and
the sachem conducted the little party to his village, where they
received most hospitable treatment.
Resuming their journey, they encamped in a cottonwood grove in a
chilly drizzling rain. The next morning dawned bright and clear,
and they caught their first glimpse of the Rocky Mountains. They
gazed long on the snowy peaks outlined in the far distance like
fleecy clouds against the blue sky.
St. Vrain's Fort was reached on the tenth day. They were made
welcome by Mr. St. Vrain, who was much interested in the expedition
westward and did everything he could to assist Lieutenant Fremont
in the enterprise. The needed horses and mules were secured, and
three men were hired to accompany them across the country to Fort
Laramie.
This station was a hundred and twenty-five miles distant, and the
new hands engaged, as a matter of course, were so familiar with
it, that there was no possibility of going astray. The journey
was resumed on the second day after reaching the fort, and without
meeting with any particular incident they arrived at their destination,
three days later.
Fort Laramie, at that time, was one of the most important posts of
the far west. It had large bastions at the corners, and its high
walls were whitewashed and picketed.
Several lodges of Sioux Indians were pitched close by, and the
division under charge of Kit Carson having arrived several days
before, had also gone into camp with the appearance of the commander
of the expedition.
CHAPTER XX
Alarming News -- Fremont Presses Forward and is Not Molested --
Arrival at South Pass -- Fremont's Account of the Ascent of the
Highest Peak of the Rocky Mountains -- The Return to Fort Laramie
-- Carson Starts for New Mexico -- End of Fremont's First Exploring
Expedition.
Alarming news awaited Fremont at Fort Laramie. A number of trappers
informed them that the Sioux, through whose country their route
lay, were excited to exasperation by several recent conflicts
with hunters in which the red men were worsted. The Sioux warriors
were gathered in large numbers and would attack any white men who
ventured beyond the fort. They had already massacred a number and
it was impossible for Fremont and his party to get through without
a battle in which they were likely to be overwhelmed.
Carson looked upon the situation as so serious that he made his
will and left it at the fort. When consulted by Fremont, he said
he considered the prospect full of peril, but he was ready to go
the moment required. The commander was confident the danger was
greatly exaggerated, and, without much misgiving, he resumed his
journey westward, following up the north fork of the Platte. Game
and water were found, and, at the end of three weeks, they arrived
at the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains without having exchanged
a shot with a red man on the way.
They had now reached their destination and Lieutenant Fremont at
once began his observations. When they were concluded he undertook
the ascent of the highest mountain peak. The situation was anything
but encouraging: they were in the country of the hostile Blackfeet,
some of whom were observed hovering in the vicinity; men and animals
were worn out and it was hard to procure game. But the ascent was
begun, Fremont taking fourteen men with him. Those who were left
in camp erected a rude but strong fort, behind which they were
confident they could sustain themselves against any force the
Indians were likely to muster.
The ascent of the mountain was laborious in the extreme. Kit Carson
climbed to one of the loftiest peaks from which he gained a full
view of the very highest elevation. The next day Fremont sent Carson
and several of the men back. He unquestionably intended that no
one should share with him the honor of climbing the most elevated
point. This exploit is worthy of description at the hands of the
Pathfinder himself.
"At intervals we reached places where a number of springs gushed
from the rocks, and about 1,800 feet above the lakes came to the
snow line. From this point our progress was uninterrupted climbing.
Hitherto, I had worn a pair of thick moccasins, with soles of
parfleche but here I put on a light thin pair, which I had brought
for the purpose, as now the use of our toes became necessary to a
further advance. I availed myself of a sort of comb of the mountain,
which stood against the wall like a buttress, and which the wind
and solar radiation, joined to the steepness of the smooth rock,
had kept almost entirely free from snow. Up this I made my way
rapidly. Our cautious method of advancing in the outset had spared
my strength; and, with the exception of a slight disposition to
headache, I felt no remains of yesterday's illness. In a few minutes
we reached a point where the buttress was overhanging, and there was
no other way of surmounting the difficulty than by passing around
one side of it, which was the face of a vertical precipice of
several hundred feet."
Parfleche is the name given to buffalo hide. The Indian women prepare
it by scraping and drying. It is exceedingly tough and hard, and
receives its name from the circumstance that it cannot be pierced
by arrows or spears.
The entire dress of Fremont and his party, on their ascent to the
"top of America," consisted of a blue flannel shirt, free and open
at the neck, the collar turning down over a black silk handkerchief
tied loosely, blue cloth pantaloons, a slouched broad brimmed hat,
and moccasins as above described. It was well adapted to climbing,
quite light, and at the same time warm, and every way comfortable.
"Putting hands and feet in the crevices between the blocks, I
succeeded in getting over it, and when I reached the top, found my
companions in a small valley below. Descending to them, we continued
climbing, and in a short time reached the crest. I sprang upon the
summit and another step would have precipitated me into an immense
snow field five hundred feet below. To the edge of this field was
a sheer icy precipice; and then, with a gradual fall, the field
sloped off for about a mile, until it struck the foot of another
lower ridge. I stood on a narrow crest about three feet in width,
with an inclination of about 20 degrees N. 51 degrees E. As soon
as I had gratified the first feelings of curiosity I descended, and
each man ascended in turn, for I would only allow one at a time to
mount the unstable and precarious slab, which it seemed a breath
would hurl into the abyss below. We mounted the barometer in the
snow of the summit, and, fixing a ramrod in a crevice, unfurled
the national flag, to wave in the breeze, where never flag waved
before. During our morning's ascent, we met no sign of animal life,
except a small bird having the appearance of a sparrow. A stillness
the most profound, and a terrible solitude forced themselves
constantly on the mind as the great features of the place. Here,
on the summit, where the stillness was absolute, unbroken by any
sound, and the solitude complete, we thought ourselves beyond the
region of animated life; but while we were sitting on the rock, a
solitary bee (bombus terrestris, the humble bee) came winging his
flight from the eastern valley, and lit on the knee of one of the
men.
"Around us the whole scene had one main striking feature, which
was that of terrible convulsion. Parallel to its length, the ridge
was split into chasms and fissures, between which rose the thin,
lofty walls, terminated with slender minarets and columns, which
are correctly represented in the view from the camp on Island Lake.
According to the barometer, the little crest of the wall on which
we stood was three thousand five hundred and seventy feet above
that place, and two thousand seven hundred and eighty feet above
the little lakes at the bottom, immediately at our feet.
"Our camp at the Two Hills (an astronomical station) bore south
30 east, which, with a bearing afterward obtained from a fixed
position, enabled us to locate the peak. The bearing of the Trois
Tetons was north 50 degrees west, and the direction of the central
ridge of the Wind River Mountains south 39 degrees east. The summit
rock was gneiss. Sienite and feldspar succeeded in our descent to
the snow line, where we found a felspathic granite. I had remarked
that the noise produced by the explosion of our pistols had the usual
degree of loudness, but was not in the least prolonged, expiring
almost instantaneously. Having now made what observations our means
afforded, we proceeded to descend. We had accomplished an object of
laudable ambition, and beyond the strict order of our instructions.
We had climbed the loftiest peak of the Rocky Mountains and looked
down upon the snow a thousand feet below, and, standing where human
foot had never stood before, felt the exultation of first explorers.
It was about two o'clock when we left the summit; and when we reached
the bottom the sun had already sunk behind the wall, and the day
was drawing to a close. It would have been pleasant to linger here
and on the summit longer; but we hurried away as rapidly as the
ground would permit, for it was an object to regain our party as
soon as possible, not knowing what accident the next hour might
bring forth."
This mountain which bears the name of Fremont's Peak, in honor of
the great Pathfinder, was found to be 13,570 feet above the Gulf
of Mexico.
The object of the expedition was accomplished and preparations were
made for the return to the states. No accident worth the mention
had befallen the explorers, and the Blackfeet, from whom so much
was feared, did not molest them. It may have been that when their
scouts reconnoitred the camp, they found the barricades so strong
and the garrison so watchful that they decided it would be too
costly to make an attack upon them. It is not impossible that some
one or more of them recognized the daring mountaineer who more
than once years before had given their warriors such severe defeat
and punishment. If such was the truth, we cannot but respect the
discretion they showed.
Fort Laramie was reached in the month of September 1842. There as
Kit Carson's labors were ended, he bade his commander and friends
goodbye and started for New Mexico. Fremont and his men reached
the states in safety and thus ended his first exploring expedition.
CHAPTER XXI.
Carson Starts for the States -- The Encampment of Captain Cook and
his Dragoons -- Carson Undertakes a Delicate and Dangerous Mission
-- The Perilous Journey -- Return of Carson and the Mexican Boy --
Encounter with Four Utah Indians -- Arrival at Bent's Fort.
Early in the year 1843, Kit Carson married his second wife
and shortly after agreed to accompany an expedition of Bent & St.
Vrain's wagons to the States. When part way across the plains,
they struck the old Santa Fe trail and came upon an encampment of
Captain Cook with four companies of United States Dragoons.
They were engaged in escorting a train of Mexican wagons to the
boundary line between New Mexico and the United States. The train
was a very valuable one and an escort of a hundred men were hired
to accompany it through the Indian country.
The situation of this train was an alarming one. It was the duty
of Captain Cook and his soldiers to guard it as far as the fording
of the Arkansas, at that time the boundary line between the two
countries. There was good reason for believing that a strong band
of Texan rangers were waiting beyond, with the intention of attacking
and plundering the train. Indeed the Mexican who had it in charge
had received information that left no possible doubt of the fact.
His face lighted up when he recognized Kit Carson. Hardly waiting
until they had greeted each other, he offered him a liberal reward
if he would ride post haste to Santa Fe and deliver a letter to
the Governor, containing an urgent request to send a strong force
to escort the train thither.
Carson unhesitatingly accepted the offer and with his usual promptness
started almost immediately on his delicate and dangerous business.
The journey was one of several hundred miles through a country
swarming with Indians, and all the skill, cunning and vigilance of
the great scout would be required to succeed. But he never faltered
in the face of peril.
A veteran mountaineer agreed to keep him company, but, when Bent's
Fort was reached he refused to go further, and Carson, as he had
often done before in critical situations, went on alone.
The news which he heard at the fort was of a startling nature. The
Utah Indians were hostile and his long journey led him directly
through their country. He could not censure his friend for declining
to go further, nor could he blame others whom he asked to accompany
him, when they shook their heads. Mr. Bent understood the peculiar
danger in which Kit would be placed, and though he was splendidly
mounted, he loaned him a magnificent steed which he led, ready to
mount whenever the necessity should arise for doing so.
That journey was one of the most remarkable of the many made by Kit
Carson. It would have been less so, had he possessed a companion
of experience, for they could have counselled together, and one
would have kept watch while the other slept. As it was, Carson was
compelled to scan every portion of the plain before him, on the
constant lookout for Indians, who would have spared no effort to
circumvent and slay him, had they known of his presence in their
country. He was so placed, indeed, that only by the most consummate
skill could he hope to run the continuous gauntlet, hundreds of
miles in length.
He had gone but a short distance when he detected the trails of his
enemies, showing they were numerous and liable to be encountered
at any moment. When night came, he picketed his horses and lay down
on the prairie or in some grove, ready to leap to his feet, bound
upon one of his steeds and gallop away on a dead run. Where the
hunter has no friend to mount guard, he is often compelled to depend
upon his horses, who frequently prove the best kind of sentinels.
They are quick to detect the approach of strangers, and a slight
neigh or stamp of the foot is enough to give the saving warning.
A large portion of the country over which he rode, was a treeless
plain and the keen blue eyes of the matchless mountaineer were kept
on a continual strain. A moving speck in the distant horizon, the
faint column of thin smoke rising from the far off grove, or a
faint yellow dust against the blue sky, could only mean one thing
-- the presence of enemies, for he was in a region which contained
not a single friend.
One afternoon Carson discovered an Indian village directly ahead of
him and on the trail which he was following. He instantly withdrew
beyond sight of any who might be on guard, and, hunting a sparse
grove of timber, kept within it until dark; then he made a long
circuit, and came back to the trail far beyond it. He travelled
a long distance that night and by daylight was in no danger of
detection.
By using such extreme caution and watchfulness, he succeeded in
passing the entire distance without exchanging a hostile shot with
anyone. He reached Taos, where he waited as agreed upon, until his
message could be sent to the Governor at Santa Fe. While in Taos he
learned that one hundred men had been sent out to meet the caravan
and the Governor himself was about ready to follow with six hundred
more. It may be stated in this place that the smaller company,
while looking for the train was attacked by the Texan rangers and
with a single exception every man was killed; but venturing into
American territory, the rangers were disarmed by Captain Cook and
his dragoons, and the wealthy wagon train, with its valuable cargo
reached its destination in safety.
Having accomplished his mission, Carson set out on his return to
Bent's Fort. This time he took a Mexican boy with him. The mountaineer
had become strongly attached to the youth, who was a noble, high
minded lad, the fit companion of the prince among plainsmen.
Two days out from Taos, both were surprised to find themselves
confronted by four Utah Indians on the war path. They appeared
so suddenly, that the two friends were given little time to make
preparation; but, as some distance separated the parties, Kit and
the lad hastily consulted over what was best to do.
"It is you whom they are seeking," said the youth, "and your life
is worth a great deal more than mine; you have a swift horse; mount
him and dash off; perhaps they will spare me, but you cannot help
me by staying."
"Your offer is a kind one," said Carson much touched by the words
of his young friend; "but nothing in the world would induce me to
leave you. We will stick together and if we must die, why let's
each take a warrior with us."
The leading warrior sauntered toward the couple, while they were
hastily consulting together, after the manner of one who felt he was
master of the situation. A broad grin stretched across his painted
face, as he extended one hand to salute Carson, while he reached for
his rifle with the other. Just as his fingers were closing around
the weapon of the mountaineer, the latter struck him a violent blow
in the face, which sent him staggering several paces backward. The
other Utahs instantly ran forward to the help of their comrade.
When they were within a few rods, Carson brought his gun to his
shoulder and peremptorily ordered them to halt. They hesitated, as
if uncertain what to do, when he told them that if they advanced
another step or made any hostile demonstration, both he and his
companion would fire. They would be sure of hitting two of the
warriors, when it would become something like an even fight, with
two on each side, and with the prospect that the red men might
suffer still further.
But the Indians were not to be bluffed in such an easy fashion.
They brandished their guns, shook powder in the pans and talked
boastingly of what they meant to do. They were double the number
of their enemies and they would teach them how brave Utah warriors
were.
Neither Carson nor the lad was disturbed by these demonstrations,
which meant to intimidate them. The mountaineer whispered to his
brave young companion to keep on his guard against any sudden rush
or demonstration. But the lad scarcely needed the warning. He was
as alert and vigilant as his friend. Had the red men attempted
anything hostile, the two would have fired instantly and then drawn
their pistols and been ready for the others.
The Utahs finally saw it was useless to attempt to bluff the man
and boy, and they rode away without offering them the least harm.
Carson and his young companion instantly resumed their journey,
still watchful and alert; but they reached Bent's Fort without
molestation, and the dangerous venture was over.
CHAPTER XXII.
Kit Carson Hears Surprising News -- He Visits Fremont -- Is Re-engaged
as Guide -- Fremont's Account of his Visit to Salt Lake.
Kit Carson was astonished on reaching Bent's Fort to learn that
Lieutenant Fremont had gone by on his second exploring expedition
but a few days before. Carson felt a strong attachment for his old
leader and galloped nearly a hundred miles to overtake him. Fremont
gave the mountaineer most cordial greeting and insisted so strongly
on his accompanying him that Carson could not refuse.
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